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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10795 ***
+
+YORKSHIRE COAST AND MOORLAND SCENES
+
+Painted and Described
+
+By
+
+GORDON HOME
+
+_Second Edition_
+
+
+1907
+
+
+
+
+_First Edition published April 26, 1904
+Second Edition published April, 1907_
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+It may seem almost superfluous to explain that this book does not deal
+with the whole of Yorkshire, for it would obviously be impossible to get
+even a passing glimpse of such a great tract of country in a book of
+this nature. But I have endeavoured to give my own impressions of much
+of the beautiful coast-line, and also some idea of the character of the
+moors and dales of the north-east portion of the county.
+
+I have described the Dale Country in a companion volume to this,
+entitled 'Yorkshire Dales and Fells.'
+
+GORDON HOME.
+
+EPSOM, 1907.
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+  ACROSS THE MOORS FROM PICKERING TO WHITBY
+
+CHAPTER II
+  ALONG THE ESK VALLEY
+
+CHAPTER III
+  THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO REDCAR
+
+CHAPTER IV
+  THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO SCARBOROUGH
+
+CHAPTER V
+  SCARBOROUGH
+
+CHAPTER VI
+  WHITBY
+
+CHAPTER VII
+  THE CLEVELAND HILLS
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+  GUISBOROUGH AND THE SKELTON VALLEY
+
+CHAPTER IX
+  FROM PICKERING TO RIEVAULX ABBEY
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+  1. On Barnby Moor
+  2. Goathland Moor
+  3. An Autumn Scene on the Esk
+  4. Sleights Moor from Swart Houc Cross
+  5. A Stormy Afternoon
+  6. East Row, Sandsend
+  7. In Mulgrave Woods
+  8. Runswick Bay
+  9. A Sunny Afternoon at Runswick
+ 10. Sunrise from Staithes Beck
+ 11. Three Generations at Staithes
+ 12. Boulby Cliffs from Staithes Scaur
+ 13. The Coast at Saltburn
+ 14. Whitby Abbey from the Cliffs
+ 15. Robin Hood's Bay
+ 16. A Street in Robin Hood's Bay
+ 17. Scarborough Harbour and Castle
+ 18. Sunlight and Shadows in Whitby Harbour
+ 19. The Red Roofs of Whitby
+ 20. Evening at Whitby
+ 21. The Cleveland Hills from above Kildale
+ 22. Hutton Woods, near Guisborough
+ 23. A Wide Expanse of Heather seen from Great Ayton Moor
+ 24. A Golden Afternoon, Danby
+ 25. A Sunset from Danby Beacon
+ 26. An Autumn Day at Guisborough
+ 27. A Yorkshire Postman
+ 28. The Skelton Valley
+ 29. In Pickering Church
+ 30. The Market-place, Helmsley
+ 31. Rievaulx Abbey from 'The Terrace'
+
+_Map at end of volume_
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+ACROSS THE MOORS FROM PICKERING TO WHITBY
+
+
+The ancient stone-built town of Pickering is to a great extent the
+gateway to the moors of Northeastern Yorkshire, for it stands at the
+foot of that formerly inaccessible gorge known as Newton Dale, and is
+the meeting-place of the four great roads running north, south, east,
+and west, as well as of railways going in the same directions. And this
+view of the little town is by no means original, for the strategic
+importance of the position was recognised at least as long ago as the
+days of the early Edwards, when the castle was built to command the
+approach to Newton Dale and to be a menace to the whole of the Vale of
+Pickering.
+
+The old-time traveller from York to Whitby saw practically nothing of
+Newton Dale, for the great coach-road bore him towards the east, and
+then, on climbing the steep hill up to Lockton Low Moor, he went almost
+due north as far as Sleights. But to-day everyone passes right through
+the gloomy canyon, for the railway now follows the windings of Pickering
+Beck, and nursemaids and children on their way to the seaside may gaze
+at the frowning cliffs which seventy years ago were only known to
+travellers and a few shepherds. But although this great change has been
+brought about by railway enterprise, the gorge is still uninhabited, and
+has lost little of its grandeur; for when the puny train, with its
+accompanying white cloud, has disappeared round one of the great bluffs,
+there is nothing left but the two pairs of shining rails, laid for long
+distances almost on the floor of the ravine. But though there are steep
+gradients to be climbed, and the engine labours heavily, there is
+scarcely sufficient time to get any idea of the astonishing scenery from
+the windows of the train, and you can see nothing of the huge expanses
+of moorland stretching away from the precipices on either side. So that
+we, who would learn something of this region, must make the journey on
+foot; for a bicycle would be an encumbrance when crossing the heather,
+and there are many places where a horse would be a source of danger. The
+sides of the valley are closely wooded for the first seven or eight
+miles north of Pickering, but the surrounding country gradually loses
+its cultivation, at first gorse and bracken, and then heather, taking
+the place of the green pastures.
+
+At the village of Newton, perched on high ground far above the dale, we
+come to the limit of civilization. The sun is nearly setting. The
+cottages are scattered along the wide roadway and the strip of grass,
+broken by two large ponds, which just now reflect the pale evening sky.
+Straight in front, across the green, some ancient barns are thrown up
+against the golden sunset, and the long perspective of white road, the
+geese, and some whitewashed gables, stand out from the deepening tones
+of the grass and trees. A footpath by the inn leads through some dewy
+meadows to the woods, above Levisham Station in the valley below. At
+first there are glimpses of the lofty moors on the opposite side of the
+dale, where the sides of the bluffs are still glowing in the sunset
+light; but soon the pathway plunges steeply into a close wood, where the
+foxes are barking, and where the intense darkness is only emphasized by
+the momentary illumination given by lightning, which now and then
+flickers in the direction of Lockton Moor. At last the friendly little
+oil-lamps on the platform at Levisham Station appear just below, and
+soon the railway is crossed and we are mounting the steep road on the
+opposite side of the valley. What is left of the waning light shows the
+rough track over the heather to High Horcum. The huge shoulders of the
+moors are now majestically indistinct, and towards the west the browns,
+purples, and greens are all merged in one unfathomable blackness. The
+tremendous silence and the desolation become almost oppressive, but
+overhead the familiar arrangement of the constellations gives a sense of
+companionship not to be slighted. In something less than an hour a light
+glows in the distance, and, although the darkness is now complete, there
+is no further need to trouble ourselves with the thought of spending the
+night on the heather. The point of light develops into a lighted window,
+and we are soon stamping our feet on the hard, smooth road in front of
+the Saltersgate Inn. The door opens straight into a large stone-flagged
+room. Everything is redolent of coaching days, for the cheery glow of
+the fire shows a spotlessly clean floor, old high-backed settles, a gun
+hooked to one of the beams overhead, quaint chairs and oak stools, and a
+fox's mask and brush. A gamekeeper is warming himself at the fire, for
+the evening is chilly, and the firelight falls on his box-cloth gaiters
+and heavy boots, as we begin to talk of the loneliness and the dangers
+of the moors, and of the snowstorms in winter, that almost bury the low
+cottages and blot out all but the boldest landmarks. Soon we are
+discussing the superstitions which still survive among the simple
+country-folk, and the dark and lonely wilds we have just left make this
+a subject of great fascination.
+
+Although we have heard it before, we hear over again with intense
+interest the story of the witch who brought constant ill-luck to a
+family in these parts. Their pigs were never free from some form of
+illness, their cows died, their horses lamed themselves, and even the
+milk was so far under the spell that on churning-days the butter refused
+to come unless helped by a crooked sixpence. One day, when as usual they
+had been churning in vain, instead of resorting to the sixpence, the
+farmer secreted himself in an outbuilding, and, gun in hand, watched the
+garden from a small opening. As it was growing dusk he saw a hare coming
+cautiously through the hedge. He fired instantly, the hare rolled over,
+dead, and almost as quickly the butter came. That same night they heard
+that the old woman, whom they had long suspected of bewitching them, had
+suddenly died at the same time as the hare, and henceforward the farmer
+and his family prospered.
+
+In the light of morning the isolation of the inn is more apparent than
+at night. A compact group of stable buildings and barns stands on the
+opposite side of the road, and there are two or three lonely-looking
+cottages, but everywhere else the world is purple and brown with ling
+and heather. The morning sun has just climbed high enough to send a
+flood of light down the steep hill at the back of the barns, and we can
+hear the hum of the bees in the heather. In the direction of Levisham is
+Gallows Dyke, the great purple bluff we passed in the darkness, and a
+few yards off the road makes a sharp double bend to get up Saltersgate
+Brow, the hill that overlooks the enormous circular bowl of Horcum Hole,
+where Levisham Beck rises. The farmer whose buildings can be seen down
+below contrives to paint the bottom of the bowl a bright green, but the
+ling comes hungrily down on all sides, with evident longings to absorb
+the scanty cultivation. The Dwarf Cornel, a little mountain-plant which
+flowers in July, is found in this 'hole.' A few patches have been
+discovered in the locality, but elsewhere it is not known south of
+the Cheviots.
+
+Away to the north the road crosses the desolate country like a
+pale-green ribbon. It passes over Lockton High Moor, climbs to 700 feet
+at Tom Cross Rigg, and then disappears into the valley of Eller Beck, on
+Goathland Moor, coming into view again as it climbs steadily up to
+Sleights Moor, nearly 1,000 feet above the sea. An enormous stretch of
+moorland spreads itself out towards the west. Near at hand is the
+precipitous gorge of Upper Newton Dale, backed by Pickering Moor, and
+beyond are the heights of Northdale Rigg and Rosedale Common, with the
+blue outlines of Ralph Cross and Danby Head right on the horizon.
+
+The smooth, well-built road, with short grass filling the crevices
+between the stones, urges us to follow its straight course northwards;
+but the sternest and most remarkable portion of Upper Newton Dale lies
+to the left, across the deep heather, and we are tempted aside to reach
+the lip of the sinuous gorge nearly a mile away to the west, where the
+railway runs along the marshy and boulder-strewn bottom of a natural
+cutting 500 feet deep. The cliffs drop down quite perpendicularly for
+200 feet, and the remaining distance to the bed of the stream is a rough
+slope, quite bare in places, and in others densely grown over with
+trees; but on every side the fortress-like scarps are as stern and bare
+as any that face the ocean. Looking north or south the gorge seems
+completely shut in. There is much the same effect when steaming through
+the Kyles of Bute, for there the ship seems to be going full speed for
+the shore of an entirely enclosed sea, and here, saving for the
+tell-tale railway, there seems no way out of the abyss without scaling
+the perpendicular walls. The rocks are at their finest at Killingnoble
+Scar, where they take the form of a semicircle on the west side of the
+railway. The scar was for a very long period famous for the breed of
+hawks, which were specially watched by the Goathland men for the use of
+James I., and the hawks were not displaced from their eyrie even by the
+incursion of the railway into the glen, and only recently
+became extinct.
+
+Newton Dale Well, at the foot of the scar, used to attract the country
+people for miles round, to the fair held there on Midsummer Day, when
+strange ceremonies were performed in order to insure the beneficent
+influence of the waters. The custom survived until the beginning of last
+century, but now it is not easy to even find the position of the well.
+Very few people living in Whitby or Pickering had any idea of the
+grandeur of the scenery of Newton Dale when the first official journey
+was made by railway between the two towns. This was in 1836, but the
+coaches were drawn by horses on the levels and up the inclines, for it
+was before the days of the steam-locomotive.
+
+However, the opening of the line caused great enthusiasm and local
+excitement, necessitating the services of numbers of policemen to keep
+the people off the rails. When the separate coaches had been hauled to
+the highest part of the dale, the horses were detached, and the vehicles
+were joined up with connecting bars. Then the train was allowed to rush
+through the pass at what was considered the dangerous speed of twenty
+miles an hour. For the benefit of those who enjoyed the great pace, the
+driver allowed the train to go at thirty miles an hour, and then, to
+show his complete control over the carriages, he applied the brakes and
+came to a standstill on the steep gradient. But for the existence of the
+long, narrow ravine right through the heart of these lofty moors, we may
+reasonably doubt whether Whitby would ever have been joined with York
+other than by way of the coast-line to Scarborough.
+
+We can cross the line near Eller Beck, and, going over Goathland Moor,
+explore the wooded sides of Wheeldale Beck and its waterfalls. Mallyan's
+Spout is the most imposing, having a drop of about 76 feet. The village
+of Goathland has thrown out skirmishers towards the heather in the form
+of an ancient-looking but quite modern church, with a low central tower,
+and a little hotel, stone-built and fitting well into its surroundings.
+The rest of the village is scattered round a large triangular green, and
+extends down to the railway, where there is a station named after
+the village.
+
+The rolling masses of Sleights Moor rise up steeply towards the east,
+and from the coach-road to Whitby that we deserted at the Saltersgate
+Inn there is an enormous panorama over Eskdale, Whitby, and the sea.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+ALONG THE ESK VALLEY
+
+
+To see the valley of the Esk in its richest garb, one must wait for a
+spell of fine autumn weather, when a prolonged ramble can be made along
+the riverside and up on the moorland heights above. For the dense
+woodlands, which are often merely pretty in midsummer, become
+astonishingly lovely as the foliage draping the steep hillsides takes on
+its gorgeous colours, and the gills and becks on the moors send down a
+plentiful supply of water to fill the dales with the music of
+rushing streams.
+
+Climbing up the road towards Larpool, we take a last look at quaint old
+Whitby, spread out before us almost like those wonderful old prints of
+English towns they loved to publish in the eighteenth century. But
+although every feature is plainly visible--the church, the abbey, the
+two piers, the harbour, the old town and the new--the detail is all lost
+in that soft mellowness of a sunny autumn day. We find an enthusiastic
+photographer expending plates on this familiar view, which is sold all
+over the town; but we do not dare to suggest that the prints, however
+successful, will be painfully hackneyed, and we go on rejoicing that the
+questions of stops and exposures need not trouble us, for the world is
+ablaze with colour.
+
+Beyond the great red viaduct, whose central piers are washed by the
+river far below, the road plunges into the golden shade of the woods
+near Cock Mill, and then comes out by the river's bank down below, with
+the little village of Ruswarp on the opposite shore. The railway goes
+over the Esk just below the dam, and does its very best to spoil every
+view of the great mill built in 1752 by Mr. Nathaniel Cholmley. However,
+from the road towards Sleights the huge building looks picturesque
+enough, with the river flowing smoothly over the broad dam fringed by
+the delicate faded greens and browns of the trees. The mill, with its
+massive roof and projecting eaves, suggests in a most remarkable fashion
+one of the huge gate-houses of the Chinese Imperial Palace at Peking.
+
+The road follows close beside the winding river, and all the way to
+Sleights there are lovely glimpses of the shimmering waters, reflecting
+the overhanging masses of foliage. The golden yellow of a bush growing
+at the water's edge will be backed by masses of brown woods that here
+and there have retained suggestions of green, contrasted with the deep
+purple tones of their shadowy recesses. These lovely phases of Eskdale
+scenery are denied to the summer visitor, but there are few who would
+wish to have the riverside solitudes rudely broken into by the passing
+of boatloads of holiday-makers. Just before reaching Sleights Bridge we
+leave the tree-embowered road, and, going through a gate, find a
+stone-flagged pathway that climbs up the side of the valley with great
+deliberation, so that we are soon at a great height, with a magnificent
+sweep of landscape towards the south-west, and the keen air blowing
+freshly from the great table-land of Egton High Moor.
+
+A little higher, and we are on the road in Aislaby village. The steep
+climb from the river and railway has kept off those modern influences
+which have made Sleights and Grosmont architecturally depressing, and
+thus we find a simple village on the edge of the heather, with
+picturesque stone cottages and pretty gardens, free from companionship
+with the painfully ugly modern stone house, with its thin slate roof.
+The big house of the village stands on the very edge of the descent,
+surrounded by high trees now swept bare of leaves.
+
+The first time I visited Aislaby I reached the little hamlet when it was
+nearly dark. Sufficient light, however, remained in the west to show up
+the large house standing in the midst of the swaying branches. One dim
+light appeared in the blue-gray mass, and the dead leaves were blown
+fiercely by the strong gusts of wind. On the other side of the road
+stood an old gray house, whose appearance that gloomy evening well
+supported the statement that it was haunted. The classic front appeared
+behind an imposing gateway approached by a curious flat bridge across a
+circular pond which had a solid stone edging. The low parapets of the
+bridge were cut into a strange serpentine form. I gazed at the front of
+the house, backed by the dim outline of the moor beyond; but, though the
+place was silent enough, I could hear no strange sounds, and the windows
+remained black and impassive.
+
+I left the village in the gathering gloom and was soon out on the
+heather. Away on the left, but scarcely discernible, was Swart Houe
+Cross, on Egton Low Moor, and straight in front lay the Skelder Inn. A
+light gleamed from one of the lower windows, and by it I guided my
+steps, being determined to partake of tea before turning my steps
+homeward. I stepped into the little parlour, with its sanded floor, and
+demanded 'fat rascals' and tea. The girl was not surprised at my
+request, for the hot turf cakes supplied at the inn are known to all the
+neighbourhood by this unusual name, although they are not particularly
+fat, and are so extremely palatable that one would gladly call them by a
+friendlier name.
+
+But though the gloom of an autumn evening emphasizes the loneliness of
+the inn, it blots out the beautiful views which extend in every
+direction over dales and woodland, as well as the sea and moors. Whitby
+shows itself beyond the windmill as a big town dominated by a great
+rectangular building looking as much like a castle as an hotel, the
+abbey being less conspicuous from here than from most points of view.
+Northwards are the dense woods at Mulgrave, the coast as far as
+Kettleness, and the wide, almost limitless moors in the direction of
+Guisborough. The road to that ancient town goes straight up the hill
+past Swart Houe Cross, which forms the horizon in the picture reproduced
+as the frontispiece of this volume. Up on that high ground you can see
+right across the valley of the Esk in both directions. The course of the
+river itself is hidden by the shoulders of Egton Low Moor beneath us,
+but faint sounds of the shunting of trucks are carried up to the
+heights. Even when the deep valleys are warmest, and when their
+atmosphere is most suggestive of a hot-house, these moorland heights
+rejoice in a keen, dry air, which seems to drive away the slightest
+sense of fatigue, so easily felt on the lower levels, and to give in its
+place a vigour that laughs at distance. Up here, too, the whole world
+seems left to Nature, the levels of cultivation being almost out of
+sight, and anything under 800 feet seems low. Towards the end of August
+the heights are capped with purple, although the distant moors, however
+brilliant they may appear when close at hand, generally assume more
+delicate shades, fading into grays and blues on the horizon.
+
+But however much the moors may attract us, we started out with the
+intention of seeing something of Eskdale. We will therefore take a
+turning out of the Guisborough road, and go down the hill to Egton
+village, where there is a church with some Norman pillars and arches
+preserved from the rebuilding craze that despoiled Yorkshire of half its
+ecclesiastical antiquities. Making our way along the riverside to
+Grosmont, we come to the enormous heaps above the pits of the now
+disused iron-mines. This was the birthplace of the Cleveland Ironworks,
+and Grosmont was at one time more famous than Middlesbrough. The first
+cargo of ironstone was sent from here in 1836, when the Pickering and
+Whitby Railway was opened. However interesting Grosmont may sound in
+books, it is a dull place; for the knowledge that the name was
+originally Grandimont, from the small priory founded about 1200, and
+named after the abbey in Normandy to which it was attached, does not
+excite much interest when there is nothing to see but a farmhouse on the
+site, and the modern place consists of a railway-junction, some deserted
+mines, and many examples of the modern Yorkshire house.
+
+Everything that Nature can do to make amends for this uninteresting spot
+is lavishly squandered upon the valley, for wherever man has left things
+alone there are heavy canopies of foliage, and mossy boulders among the
+rushing streams; and if you will but take the trouble to climb up to the
+heather, even the mines are dwarfed into insignificance. We will go up
+the steep road to the top of Sleights Moor. It is a long stiff climb of
+nearly 900 feet, but the view is one of the very finest in this country,
+where wide expanses soon become commonplace. We are sufficiently high to
+look right across Fylingdales Moor to the sea beyond, a soft haze of
+pearly blue over the hard, rugged outline of the ling. Away towards the
+north, too, the landscape for many miles is limited only by the same
+horizon of sea, so that we seem to be looking at a section of a very
+large scale contour map of England. Below us on the western side runs
+the Mirk Esk, draining the heights upon which we stand as well as Egton
+High Moor and Wheeldale Moor. The confluence with the Esk at Grosmont is
+lost in a haze of smoke and a confusion of roofs and railway-lines; and
+the course of the larger river in the direction of Glaisdale is also
+hidden behind the steep slopes of Egton High Moor. Towards the south we
+gaze over a vast desolation, crossed by the coach-road to York as it
+rises and falls over the swells of the heather. The queer isolated cone
+of Blakey Topping and the summit of Gallows Dyke, close to Saltersgate,
+appear above the distant ridges.
+
+The route of the great Roman road from the South to Dunsley Bay can also
+be seen from these heights. It passes straight through Cawthorn Camp, on
+the ridge to the west of the village of Newton, and then runs along
+within a few yards of the by-road from Picketing to Egton. It crosses
+Wheeldale Beck, and skirts the ancient dyke round July or Julian Park,
+at one time a hunting-seat of the great De Mauley family. The road is
+about 12 feet wide, and is now deep in heather; but it is slightly
+raised above the general level of the ground, and can therefore be
+followed fairly easily where it has not been taken up to build walls for
+enclosures. Of greater antiquity, but much more easily discovered, are
+the bride stones close at hand on Sleights Moor. Several of the stones
+have fallen, but three of them are still standing erect, the tallest
+being 7 feet high. It is not easy to discover any particular form from
+the standing and recumbent stones, for they neither make a circle nor do
+they seem to be directed to any particular point of the compass; but it
+is quite possible that these monoliths were put up by Early Man as a
+means of recording the seasons, in somewhat the same manner as
+Stonehenge is an example of the orientated temple of Neolithic times.
+
+If we go down into the valley beneath us by a road bearing south-west,
+we shall find ourselves at Beck Hole, where there is a pretty group of
+stone cottages, backed by some tall firs. The Eller Beck is crossed by a
+stone bridge close to its confluence with the Mirk Esk. Above the
+bridge, a footpath among the huge boulders winds its way by the side of
+the rushing beck to Thomasin Foss, where the little river falls in two
+or three broad silver bands into a considerable pool. Great masses of
+overhanging rock, shaded by a leafy roof, shut in the brimming waters.
+
+It is not difficult to find the way from Beck Hole to the Roman camp on
+the hillside towards Egton Bridge. The Roman road from Cawthorn goes
+right through it, but beyond this it is not easy to trace, although
+fragments have been discovered as far as Aislaby, all pointing to
+Dunsley or Sandsend Bay. Round the shoulder of the hill we come down
+again to the deeply-wooded valley of the Esk. No river can be seen, but
+when we enter the shade of the trees the sound of many waters fills the
+air. What was once a thick green roof is now thin and yellow, and under
+our feet is a yielding carpet of soft brown and orange leaves. Rare and
+luxuriant mosses grow at the foot of the trees, on dead wood, and on the
+damp stones, and everywhere the rich woodland scent of decay meets the
+nostrils. In the midst of all these evidences of rampant natural
+conditions we come to Glaisdale End, where a graceful stone bridge of a
+single arch stands over the rushing stream. The initials of the builder
+and the date appear on the eastern side of what is now known as the
+Beggar's Bridge. It was formerly called Firris Bridge, after the
+builder, but the popular interest in the story of its origin seems to
+have killed the old name. If you ask anyone in Whitby to mention some of
+the sights of the neighbourhood, he will probably head his list with the
+Beggar's Bridge, but why this is so I cannot imagine. The woods are very
+beautiful, but this is a country full of the loveliest dales, and the
+presence of this single-arched bridge does not seem sufficient to have
+attracted so much popularity. I can only attribute it to the love
+interest associated with the beggar. He was, we may imagine, the
+Alderman Thomas Firris who, as a penniless youth, came to bid farewell
+to his betrothed, who lived somewhere on the opposite side of the river.
+Finding the stream impassable, he is said to have determined that if he
+came back from his travels as a rich man he would put up a bridge on the
+spot he had been prevented from crossing. It is not a very remarkable
+story, even if it be true, but it has given the bridge a fame scarcely
+proportionate to its merits.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO REDCAR
+
+
+Along the three miles of sand running northwards from Whitby at the foot
+of low alluvial cliffs, I have seen some of the finest sea-pictures on
+this part of the coast. But although I have seen beautiful effects at
+all times of the day, those that I remember more than any others are the
+early mornings, when the sun was still low in the heavens, when,
+standing on that fine stretch of yellow sand, one seemed to breathe an
+atmosphere so pure, and to gaze at a sky so transparent, that some of
+those undefined longings for surroundings that have never been realized
+were instinctively uppermost in the mind. It is, I imagine, that vague
+recognition of perfection which has its effect on even superficial minds
+when impressed with beautiful scenery, for to what other cause can be
+attributed the remark one hears, that such scenes 'make one feel good'?
+
+Heavy waves, overlapping one another in their fruitless bombardment of
+the smooth shelving sand, are filling the air with a ceaseless thunder.
+The sun, shining from a sky of burnished gold, throws into silhouette
+the twin lighthouses at the entrance to Whitby Harbour, and turns the
+foaming wave-tops into a dazzling white, accentuated by the long shadows
+of early day. Away to the north-west is Sandsend Ness, a bold headland
+full of purple and blue shadows, and straight out to sea, across the
+white-capped waves, are two tramp steamers, making, no doubt, for South
+Shields or some port where a cargo of coal can be picked up. They are
+plunging heavily, and every moment their bows seem to go down too far
+to recover.
+
+On mornings when the sea is quieter there are few who can resist the
+desire to plunge into the blue waters, for at seven o'clock the shore is
+so entirely deserted that one seems to be bathing from some primeval
+shore where no other forms of life may be expected than some giant
+crustaceans. This thought, perhaps, prompted the painful sensations I
+allowed to prey upon me one night when I was walking along this
+particular piece of shore from Whitby. I had decided to save time over
+the road to Sandsend by getting on to the beach at Upgang, where the
+lifeboat-house stands, by the entrance to a small beck. So dark was the
+night that I could scarcely be sure that I had not lost my way, until I
+had carefully felt the walls of the boat-house. Then I stepped
+cautiously on to the sand, which I discovered as soon as my feet began
+sinking at every step.
+
+The harbour lights of Whitby were bright enough, but in the other
+direction I could be sure of nothing. At first I seemed to have made a
+mistake as to the state of the tide, for there appeared to be a
+whiteness nearly up to the base of the cliffs; but this proved to be the
+suffused glow from the lighthouses. Rain had been falling heavily for
+the last few days, and had produced so many wide streams across the sand
+that my knowledge of the usual ones merely hampered me. At first I began
+stepping carefully over large black hollows in the sand, and then a
+great black mark would show itself, which, offering no resistance to my
+stick as I drew it across its surface, I could only imagine to be caused
+by a flood of ink poured upon the beach by some horrible squid. My
+musings on whether sea-monsters did ever disport themselves on the shore
+under the cover of sufficiently dark nights would be broken into by
+discovering that I had plunged into a stream of undiscoverable
+dimensions, whose existence only revealed itself by the splash of my
+boots. Retreating cautiously, I would take a run, and then a terrific
+leap into the darkness, sometimes finding myself on firm dry sand, and
+as frequently in the water.
+
+I had decided that I should probably not reach Sandsend until daylight,
+when a red lamp near the railway-bridge shone out as a beacon, and I
+realized that I would soon be safe from the tentacles of sea-monsters.
+
+When I awoke next morning, I dashed out on to the beach, and commenced
+to walk rapidly in the direction of Whitby, in the hope that the tide
+had left some of those black stains still showing. I wanted, also, to
+examine some of the queer ridges I had so often stepped over, and some
+of the rivers I had leapt. The rivers were there wide enough in places,
+but nothing in the way of a ridge or any signs of those inky patches
+could I discern. Careful examination showed, however, that here and
+there the smooth shore was covered with sand of a rather reddish hue,
+quite unworthy of remark in daylight. The foolishness of my
+apprehensions seems apparent, but nevertheless I urge everyone to choose
+a moonlit night and a companion of some sort for traversing these three
+miles after sunset.
+
+The two little becks finding their outlet at East Row and Sandsend are
+lovely to-day; but their beauty must have been much more apparent before
+the North-Eastern Railway put their black lattice girder bridges across
+the mouth of each valley. But now that familiarity with these bridges,
+which are of the same pattern across every wooded ravine up the
+coast-line to Redcar, has blunted my impressions, I can think of the
+picturesqueness of East Row without remembering the railway. It was in
+this glen, where Lord Normanby's lovely woods make a background for the
+pretty tiled cottages, the mill, and the old stone bridge, which make up
+East Row, that the Saxons chose a home for their god Thor. [Since this
+was written one or two new houses have been allowed to mar the
+simplicity of the valley.--G. H.] Here they built some rude form of
+temple, afterwards, it seems, converted into a hermitage. This was how
+the spot obtained the name Thordisa, a name it retained down to 1620,
+when the requirements of workmen from the newly-started alum-works at
+Sandsend led to building operations by the side of the stream. The
+cottages which arose became known afterwards as East Row.
+
+A very little way inland is the village of Dunsley, which may have been
+in existence in Roman times, for Ptolemy mentions Dunus Sinus as a bay
+frequently used by the Romans as a landing-place. The foundations of
+some ancient building can easily be traced in the rough grass at the
+village cross-roads, now overlooked by a new stone house. But whatever
+surprises Dunsley may have in store for those who choose to dig in the
+likely places, the hamlet need not keep one long, for on either hand
+there is a choice of breezy moorland or the astonishing beauties of
+Mulgrave Woods. Before I knew this part of Yorkshire, and had merely
+read of the woods as a sight to be visited from Whitby, I was prepared
+for something at least as hackneyed as Hayburn Wyke. I was prepared for
+direction-boards and artificial helps to the charms of certain aspects
+of the streams. I certainly never anticipated that I should one day sigh
+for a direction-board in this forest.
+
+It was on my second visit to the woods that I determined to find a
+particularly dramatic portion of one of the streams. My first ramble had
+been in summer. I had been with one who knew the paths well, but now it
+was late autumn and I was alone. I explored the paths for hours, and
+traversed long glades ablaze with red and gold. I peered down through
+the yellow leaves to the rushing streams below, where I could see the
+great moss-grown boulders choking the narrow channels. But this
+particular spot had gone. I was almost in despair, when two labourers by
+great luck happened to come along one of the tracks. With their help I
+found the place I was searching for, and the result of the time spent
+there is given in one of the illustrations to this chapter. Go where you
+will in Yorkshire, you will find no more fascinating woodland scenery
+than this. From the broken walls and towers of the old Norman castle the
+views over the ravines on either hand--for the castle stands on a lofty
+promontory in a sea of foliage--are entrancing; and after seeing the
+astoundingly brilliant colours with which autumn paints these trees,
+there is a tendency to find the ordinary woodland commonplace. The
+narrowest and deepest gorge is hundreds of feet deep in the shale. East
+Row Beck drops into this canyon in the form of a waterfall at the upper
+end, and then almost disappears among the enormous rocks strewn along
+its circumscribed course. The humid, hothouse atmosphere down here
+encourages the growth of many of the rarer mosses, which entirely cover
+all but the newly-fallen rocks.
+
+We can leave the woods by a path leading near Lord Normanby's modern
+castle, and come out on to the road close to Lythe Church, where a great
+view of sea and land is spread out towards the south. The long curving
+line of white marks the limits of the tide as far as the entrance to
+Whitby Harbour. The abbey stands out in its loneliness as of yore, and
+beyond it are the black-looking, precipitous cliffs ending at Saltwick
+Nab. Lythe Church, standing in its wind-swept graveyard full of
+blackened tombstones, need not keep us, for, although its
+much-modernized exterior is simple and ancient-looking, the interior is
+devoid of any interest. It is the same tale at nearly every village in
+this district, and to those who are able to grow enthusiastic in
+antiquarian matters some parts of the county are disappointing. In East
+Anglia and the southern counties even the smallest hamlets have often a
+good church, with a conspicuous tower or spire; but in how many villages
+in this riding do you find no church at all, as in the case of Staithes
+and Runswick? Many of the old churches of Yorkshire were in a state of
+great dilapidation at the beginning of last century, and a great effort
+having been initiated by the then Archbishop, a fund was instituted to
+help the various parishes to restore their buildings. It was a period
+when architecture was at a low ebb, and the desire to sweep away
+antiquity was certainly strong, for those churches not rebuilt from the
+ground were so hacked and renovated that their interest and
+picturesqueness has vanished. The churches at Pickering, Middleton,
+Lastingham, and Kirkdale must, however, be pointed out as priceless
+exceptions.
+
+The road drops down a tremendous hill into Sandsend, where they talk of
+going 'up t' bonk' to Lythe Church. A little chapel of ease in the
+village accommodates the old and delicate folk, but the youth and the
+generally able-bodied of Sandsend must climb the hill every Sunday. The
+beck forms an island in the village, and the old stone cottages, bright
+with new paint and neatly-trained creepers, stand in their gardens on
+either side of the valley in the most picturesque fashion.
+
+The walk along the rocky shore to Kettleness is dangerous unless the
+tide is carefully watched, and the road inland through Lythe village is
+not particularly interesting, so that one is tempted to use the railway,
+which cuts right through the intervening high ground by means of two
+tunnels. The first one is a mile long, and somewhere near the centre has
+a passage out to the cliffs, so that even if both ends of the tunnel
+collapsed there would be a way of escape. But this is small comfort when
+travelling from Kettleness, for the down gradient towards Sandsend is
+very steep, and in the darkness of the tunnel the train gets up a
+tremendous speed, bursting into the open just where a precipitous drop
+into the sea could be most easily accomplished.
+
+The station at Kettleness is on the top of the huge cliffs, and to reach
+the shore one must climb down a zigzag path. It is a broad and solid
+pathway until halfway down, where it assumes the character of a
+goat-track, being a mere treading down of the loose shale of which the
+enormous cliff is formed. The sliding down of the crumbling rock
+constantly carries away the path, but a little spade-work soon makes the
+track firm again. This portion of the cliff has something of a history,
+for one night in 1829 the inhabitants of many of the cottages originally
+forming the village of Kettleness were warned of impending danger by
+subterranean noises. Fearing a subsidence of the cliff, they betook
+themselves to a small schooner lying in the bay. This wise move had not
+long been accomplished, when a huge section of the ground occupied by
+the cottages slid down the great cliff and the next morning there was
+little to be seen but a sloping mound of lias shale at the foot of the
+precipice. The villagers recovered some of their property by digging,
+and some pieces of broken crockery from one of the cottages are still to
+be seen on the shore near the ferryman's hut, where the path joins
+the shore.
+
+This sandy beach, lapped by the blue waves of Runswick Bay, is one of
+the finest spots on the rocky coast-line of Yorkshire. A trickling
+waterfall drops perpendicularly down the blackish rocks from a
+considerable height, while above it are the towering cliffs of shale,
+perfectly bare in one direction, and clothed with grass and bracken in
+another. At the foot of the rocks a layer of jet appears a few inches
+above the sand.
+
+You look northwards across the sunlit sea to the rocky heights hiding
+Port Mulgrave and Staithes, and on the further side of the bay you see
+tiny Runswick's red roofs, one above the other, on the face of the
+cliff. Here it is always cool and pleasant in the hottest weather, and
+from the broad shadows cast by the precipices above one can revel in the
+sunny land and sea-scapes without that fishy odour so unavoidable in the
+villages. When the sun is beginning to climb down the sky in the
+direction of Hinderwell, and everything is bathed in a glorious golden
+light, the ferryman will row you across the bay to Runswick, but a
+scramble over the rocks on the beach will be repaid by a closer view of
+the now half-filled-up Hob Hole. The fisher-folk believed this cave to
+be the home of a kindly-disposed fairy or hob, who seems to have been
+one of the slow-dying inhabitants of the world of mythology implicitly
+believed in by the Saxons. And these beliefs died so hard in these
+lonely Yorkshire villages that until recent times a mother would carry
+her child suffering from whooping-cough along the beach to the mouth of
+the cave. There she would call in a loud voice, 'Hob-hole Hob! my
+bairn's gotten t'kink cough. Tak't off, tak't off.' One can see the
+child's parents gazing fearfully into the black depths of the cavern,
+penetrating the cliff for 70 feet, and finally turning back to the
+village in the full belief that the hob would stay the disease.
+
+The steep paths and flights of roughly-built steps that wind above and
+below the cottages are the only means of getting about in Runswick. The
+butcher's cart every Saturday penetrates into the centre of the village
+by the rough track which is all that is left of the good firm road from
+Hinderwell after it has climbed down the cliff. To this central
+position, close to the post-box, the householders come to buy their
+supply of meat for Sunday, having their purchases weighed on scales
+placed on the flap at the back of the cart. While the butcher is doing
+his thriving trade the postman arrives to collect letters from the
+pillar-box, Placing a small horn to his lips, he blows a blast to warn
+the villagers that the post is going, and, having waited for the last
+letter, climbs slowly up the steep pathway to Hinderwell.
+
+Halfway up to the top he pauses and looks over the fruit-trees and the
+tiles and chimney-pots below him, to the bright blue waters of the bay,
+with Kettleness beyond, now all pink and red in the golden light of late
+afternoon. This scene is more suggestive of the Mediterranean than
+Yorkshire, for the blueness of the sea seems almost unnatural, and the
+golden greens of the pretty little gardens among the houses seem perhaps
+a trifle theatrical; but the fisher-folk play their parts too well, and
+there is nothing make-believe about the delicious bread-and-butter and
+the newly-baked cakes which accompany the tea awaiting us in a
+spotlessly clean cottage close by.
+
+The same form of disaster which destroyed Kettleness village caused the
+complete ruin of Runswick in 1666, for one night, when some of the
+fisher-folk were holding a wake over a corpse, they had unmistakable
+warnings of an approaching landslip. The alarm was given, and the
+villagers, hurriedly leaving their cottages, saw the whole place slide
+downwards and become a mass of ruins. No lives were lost, but, as only
+one house remained standing, the poor fishermen were only saved from
+destitution by the sums of money collected for their relief.
+
+Architecturally speaking, Hinderwell is a depressing village, and there
+is little to remember about the place except an extraordinary block of
+two or three shops, suitable only for a business street in a big city,
+but dumped right into the middle of this village of low cottages. The
+church is modern enough to be uninteresting, but in the graveyard St.
+Hilda's Well, from which the name Hinderwell is a corruption, may
+still be seen.
+
+In 1603 there was a sudden and terrible outbreak of plague in the
+village. It only lasted from September 1 to November 10, but in that
+short time forty-nine people died. It seems that the infection was
+brought by some men from a 'Turkey ship' that had been stranded on the
+coast, but, strangely enough, the disease does not appear to have been
+carried into the other villages in the neighbourhood.
+
+Scarcely two miles from Hinderwell is the fishing-hamlet of Staithes,
+wedged into the side of a deep and exceedingly picturesque beck.
+Here--and it is the same at Runswick--one is obliged to walk warily
+during the painter's season, for fear of either obstructing the view of
+the man behind the easel you have just passed, or out of regard for the
+feelings of some girls just in front. There are often no more chances of
+standing still in Staithes than may be enjoyed on a popular golf-links
+on a fine Saturday afternoon. These folk at Staithes do not disturb one
+with cries of 'Fore!' but with that blank Chinaman's stare which comes
+to anyone who paints in public.
+
+The average artist is a being who is quite unable to recognise
+architectural merit. He sees everything to please him if the background
+of his group be sufficiently tumble-down and derelict. If this be
+incorrect, how could such swarms of artistic folk paint and actually
+lodge in Staithes? The steep road leading past the station drops down
+into the village, giving a glimpse of the beck crossed by its ramshackle
+wooden foot-bridge--the view one has been prepared for by guide-books
+and picture postcards. Lower down you enter the village street. Here the
+smell of fish comes out to greet you, and one would forgive the place
+this overflowing welcome if one were not so shocked at the dismal aspect
+of the houses on either side of the way. Many are of comparatively
+recent origin, others are quite new, and a few--a very few--are old; but
+none have any architectural pretensions or any claims to
+picturesqueness, and only a few have the neat and respectable look one
+is accustomed to expect after seeing Robin Hood's Bay.
+
+Staithes had filled me with so much pleasant expectancy that my first
+walk down this street of dirty, ugly houses had brought me into a
+querulous frame of mind, and I wondered irritably why the women should
+all wear lilac-coloured bonnets, when a choice of colour is not
+difficult as far as calico is concerned. Those women who were in
+mourning had dyed theirs black, and these assorted well with the colour
+of the stone of many of the houses.
+
+I hurried down on to the little fish-wharf--a wooden structure facing
+the sea--hoping to find something more cheering in the view of the
+little bay, with its bold cliffs, and the busy scene where the cobles
+were drawn up on the shingle. Here my spirits revived, and I began to
+find excuses for the painters. The little wharf, in a bad state of
+repair, like most things in the place, was occupied by groups of
+stalwart fisher-folk, men and women.
+
+The men were for the most part watching their women-folk at work. They
+were also to an astonishing extent mere spectators in the arduous work
+of hauling the cobles one by one on to the steep bank of shingle. A
+tackle hooked to one of the baulks of timber forming the staith was
+being hauled at by five women and two men! Two others were in a listless
+fashion leaning their shoulders against the boat itself. With the last
+'Heave-ho!' at the shortened tackle the women laid hold of the nets, and
+with casual male assistance laid them out on the shingle, removed any
+fragments of fish, and generally prepared them for stowing in the
+boat again.
+
+It is evidently an accepted state of things at Staithes that the work of
+putting out to sea and the actual catching of the fish is sufficient for
+the men-folk, for the feminine population do their arduous tasks with a
+methodical matter-of-factness which surprises only the stranger. I was
+particularly struck on one occasion with the sight of a good-looking and
+very neatly dressed young fishwife who was engaged in that very
+necessary but exceedingly unpleasant task of cutting open fish and
+removing the perishable portions. With unerring precision the sharp
+knife was plunged into each cod or haddock, and the fish was in its
+marketable condition in shorter time than one can write. A little boy
+plunged them into a pail of ruddy-looking water, and from thence into
+the regulation fish box or basket that finds its way to the Metropolis.
+
+A change has come over the inhabitants of Staithes since 1846, when Mr.
+Ord describes the fishermen as 'exceedingly civil and courteous to
+strangers, and altogether free from that low, grasping knavery peculiar
+to the larger class of fishing-towns.' Without wishing to be
+unreasonably hard on Staithes, I am inclined to believe that this
+character is infinitely better than these folk deserve, and even when
+Mr. Ord wrote of the place I have reason to doubt the civility shown by
+them to strangers. It is, according to some who have known Staithes for
+a long while, less than fifty years ago that the fisher-folk were
+hostile to a stranger on very small provocation, and only the entirely
+inoffensive could expect to sojourn in the village without being a
+target for stones. The incursion of the artistic hordes has been a great
+factor in the demoralization of the village, for who would not be
+mercenary when besought at all hours of the day to stand before a canvas
+or a camera? Thus, the harmless stranger who strays on to the staith
+with a camera is obliged to pay for 'an afternoon's 'baccy' if he want
+an opportunity to obtain more than a snapshot of a picturesque group. He
+may try to capture a lonely old fisherman by asking if he would mind
+standing still for 'just one second,' but the old fellow will move away
+instantly unless his demand for payment be readily complied with.
+
+No doubt many of the superstitions of Staithes people have languished or
+died out in recent years, and among these may be included a particularly
+primitive custom when the catches of fish had been unusually small. Bad
+luck of this sort could only be the work of some evil influence, and to
+break the spell a sheep's heart had to be procured, into which many pins
+were stuck. The heart was then burnt in a bonfire on the beach, in the
+presence of the fishermen, who danced round the flames.
+
+In happy contrast to these heathenish practices was the resolution
+entered into and signed by the fishermen of Staithes, in August, 1835,
+binding themselves 'on no account whatever' to follow their calling on
+Sundays, 'nor to go out with our boats or cobbles to sea, either on the
+Saturday or Sunday evenings.' They also agreed to forfeit ten shillings
+for every offence against the resolution, and the fund accumulated in
+this way, and by other means, was administered for the benefit of aged
+couples and widows and orphans.
+
+The men of Staithes are known up and down the east coast of Great
+Britain as some of the very finest types of fishermen. Their cobles,
+which vary in size and colour, are uniform in design and the brilliance
+of their paint. Brick red, emerald green, pungent blue and white, are
+the most favoured colours, but orange, pink, yellow, and many others,
+are to be seen.
+
+Not only are fish of the present age in evidence at Staithes, but
+nowhere along this coast can one find better examples of those of the
+Jurassic period. When the tide has exposed the scaur which runs out from
+Colburn Nab, at the mouth of the beck, a one can examine masses of
+recently fallen rocks, the new faces of which are almost invariably
+covered with ammonites or clusters of fossil bivalves. The only
+hindrance to a close examination of these new falls from the cliffs is
+the serious danger of another fall occurring at the same spot. The
+fisher-folk are very kind in pointing out this peril to ardent
+geologists and those of a less scientific outlook, who merely enjoy the
+exercise of scrambling over great masses of rock. After having been
+warned that most of the face of the cliff above is 'qualified' to come
+down at any moment, there is a strong inclination to betake one's self
+to a safe distance, where, unfortunately, the wear and tear of the waves
+have in most cases so battered the traces of early marine life that
+there is little to attack with the hammer to compare with what can be
+seen in the new falls. The scaur also presents an interesting feature in
+its round ironstone nodules, half embedded in the smooth rocky floor.
+
+Looking northwards there is a grand piece of coast scenery. The masses
+of Boulby Cliffs, rising 660 feet from the sea, are the highest on the
+Yorkshire coast. The waves break all round the rocky scaur, and fill the
+air with their thunder, while the strong wind blows the spray into
+beards which stream backwards from the incoming crests.
+
+The upper course of Staithes Beck consists of two streams, flowing
+through deep, richly-wooded ravines. They follow parallel courses very
+close to one another for three or four miles, but their sources extend
+from Lealholm Moor to Wapley Moor. Kilton Beck runs through another
+lovely valley densely clothed in trees, and full of the richest woodland
+scenery. It becomes more open in the neighbourhood of Loftus, and from
+thence to the sea at Skinningrove the valley is green and open to the
+heavens. Loftus is on the borders of the Cleveland mining district, and
+it is for this reason that the town has grown to a considerable size.
+But although the miners' new cottages are unpicturesque, and the church
+only dates from 1811, the situation is pretty, owing to the profusion of
+trees among the houses. Skinningrove has railway-sidings and
+branch-lines running down to it, and on the hill above the cottages
+stands a cluster of blast-furnaces. In daylight they are merely ugly,
+but at night, with tongues of flame, they speak of the potency of
+labour. I can still see that strange silhouette of steel cylinders and
+connecting girders against a blue-black sky, with silent masses of flame
+leaping into the heavens.
+
+It was long before iron-ore was smelted here, before even the old
+alum-works had been started, that Skinningrove attained to some sort of
+fame through a wonderful visit, as strange as any of those recounted by
+Mr. Wells. It was in the year 1535--for the event is most carefully
+recorded in a manuscript of the period--that some fishermen of
+Skinningrove caught a Sea Man. This was such an astounding fact to
+record that the writer of the old manuscript explains that 'old men that
+would be loath to have their credyt crackt by a tale of a stale date,
+report confidently that ... a _sea-man_ was taken by the fishers.' They
+took him up to an old disused house, and kept him there for many weeks,
+feeding him on raw fish, because he persistently refused the other sorts
+of food offered him. To the people who flocked from far and near to
+visit him he was very courteous, and he seems to have been particularly
+pleased with any 'fayre maydes' who visited him, for he would gaze at
+them with a very earnest countenance, 'as if his phlegmaticke breaste
+had been touched with a sparke of love.' The Sea Man was so well behaved
+that the fisher-folk began to feel sufficiently sure of his desire to
+live with them to cease to keep watch on his movements. 'One day,' we
+are told, 'he prively stoale out of Doores, and ere he coulde be
+overtaken recovered the sea, whereinto he plunged himself; yet as one
+that woulde not unmanerly depart without taking of his leave, from the
+mydle upwardes he raysed his shoulders often above the waves, and
+makinge signes of acknowledgeing his good enterteinment to such as
+beheld him on the shore, as they interpreted yt;--after a pretty while
+he dived downe and appeared no more.'
+
+This strangely detailed account says that instead of a voice the Sea Man
+'skreaked,' but this is of small interest compared to whether he had a
+tail or any fish-like attributes. The fact that he escaped would suggest
+the presence of legs, but the historian is silent on this
+all-important matter.
+
+The lofty coast-line we have followed all the way from Sandsend
+terminates abruptly at Huntcliff Nab, the great promontory which is
+familiar to visitors to Saltburn. Low alluvial cliffs take the place of
+the rocky precipices, and the coast becomes flatter and flatter as you
+approach Redcar and the marshy country at the mouth of the Tees. The
+original Saltburn, consisting of a row of quaint fishermen's cottages,
+still stands entirely alone, facing the sea on the Huntcliff side of the
+beck, and from the wide, smooth sands there is little of modern Saltburn
+to be seen besides the pier. For the rectangular streets and blocks of
+houses have been wisely placed some distance from the edge of the grassy
+cliffs, leaving the sea-front quite unspoiled. It would, perhaps, be
+well to own that I have never seen Saltburn during the summer season,
+and for this reason I may think better of the resort than if my visit
+had been in midsummer. It was during October. The sun was shining
+brightly, and a strong wind was blowing off the land. The wide,
+new-looking streets were spotlessly clean, and in most of them there was
+no sign of life at all. It was the same on the broad sweep of sands, for
+when I commenced a drawing on the cliffs the only living creatures I
+could see were two small dogs. About noon a girls' school was let loose
+upon the sands, and for half an hour a furious game of hockey was
+fought. Then I was left alone again, with the great expanse of sea, the
+yellow margin of sand, and the reddish-brown cliffs, all beneath the
+wind-swept sky.
+
+The elaborately-laid-out gardens on the steep banks of Skelton Beck are
+the pride and joy of Saltburn, for they offer a pleasant contrast to the
+bare slopes on the Huntcliff side and the flat country towards
+Kirkleatham. But in this seemingly harmless retreat there used to be
+heard horrible groanings, and I have no evidence to satisfy me that they
+have altogether ceased. For in this matter-of-fact age such a story
+would not be listened to, and thus those who hear the sounds may be
+afraid to speak of them. The groanings were heard, they say, 'when all
+wyndes are whiste and the sea restes unmoved as a standing poole.' At
+times they were so loud as to be heard at least six miles inland, and
+the fishermen feared to put out to sea, believing that the ocean was 'as
+a greedy Beaste raginge for Hunger, desyers to be satisfyed with men's
+carcases.' There were also at that time certain rocks towards Huntcliff
+Nab, left bare at low-tide, where 'Seales in greate Heardes like Swine'
+were to be seen basking in the sun. 'For their better scuritye,' says
+the old writer, 'they put in use a kind of military discipline, warily
+preparing against a soddaine surprize, for on the outermost Rocke one
+great Seale or more keepes sentinell, which upon the first inklinge of
+any danger, giveth the Alarme to the rest by throweing of Stones, or
+making a noise in the water, when he tumbles down from the Rocke, the
+rest immediately doe the like, insomuch that yt is very hard to overtake
+them by cunning.'
+
+In 1842 Redcar was a mere village, though more apparent on the map than
+Saltburn; but, like its neighbour, it has grown into a great
+watering-place, having developed two piers, a long esplanade other
+features, which I am glad to leave to those for whom they were made, and
+betake myself to the more romantic spots so plentiful in this
+broad county.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO SCARBOROUGH
+
+
+Although it is only six miles as the crow flies from Whitby to Robin
+Hood's Bay, the exertion required to walk there along the top of the
+cliffs is equal to quite double that distance, for there are so many
+gullies to be climbed into and crawled out of that the measured distance
+is considerably increased. It is well to remember this, for otherwise
+the scenery of the last mile or two may not seem as fine as the
+first stages.
+
+As soon as the abbey and the jet-sellers are left behind, you pass a
+farm, and come out on a great expanse of close-growing smooth turf,
+where the whole world seems to be made up of grass and sky. The footpath
+goes close to the edge of the cliff; in some places it has gone too
+close, and has disappeared altogether. But these diversions can be
+avoided without spoiling the magnificent glimpses of the rock-strewn
+beach nearly 200 feet below. From above Saltwick Bay there is a grand
+view across the level grass to Whitby Abbey, standing out alone on the
+green horizon. Down below, Saltwick Nab runs out a bare black arm into
+the sea, which even in the calmest weather angrily foams along the
+windward side. Beyond the sturdy lighthouse that shows itself a dazzling
+white against the hot blue of the heavens commence the innumerable
+gullies. Each one has its trickling stream, and bushes and low trees
+grow to the limits of the shelter afforded by the ravines; but in the
+open there is nothing higher than the waving corn or the stone walls
+dividing the pastures--a silent testimony to the power of the north-east
+wind. The village of Hawsker, with its massive though modern church, can
+be seen across the fields towards the west, but it does not offer
+sufficient attractions to divert you from the cliffs, unless you have a
+desire to see in one or two of the fields, gateways and rubbing-posts
+formed of whales' jaws, suggestive of the days when Whitby carried on a
+thriving trade with the great cetaceans. To enjoy this magnificent coast
+scenery, there must be plenty of time to linger in those places where it
+seems impossible not to fling yourself on the long brown grass and
+listen to the droning of insects and the sound of the waves down below.
+At certain times of the day the most striking colours are seen among the
+sunlit rocks, and the boldness of the outlines of overhanging strata and
+great projecting shoulders are a continual surprise.
+
+After rounding the North Cheek, the whole of Robin Hood's Bay is
+suddenly laid before you. I well remember my first view of the wide
+sweep of sea, which lay like a blue carpet edged with white, and the
+high escarpments of rock that were in deep purple shade, except where
+the afternoon sun turned them into the brightest greens and umbers.
+Three miles away, but seemingly very much closer, was the bold headland
+of the Peak, and more inland was Stoupe Brow, with Robin Hood's Butts on
+the hill-top. The fable connected with the outlaw is scarcely worth
+repeating, but on the site of these butts urns have been dug up, and are
+now to be found in Scarborough Museum. The Bay Town is hidden away in a
+most astonishing fashion, for, until you have almost reached the two
+bastions which guard the way up from the beach, there is nothing to be
+seen of the charming old place. If you approach by the road past the
+railway-station it is the same, for only garishly new hotels and villas
+are to be seen on the high ground, and not a vestige of the fishing-town
+can be discovered. But the road to the bay at last begins to drop down
+very steeply, and the first old roofs appear. The path at the side of
+the road develops into a very long series of steps, and in a few minutes
+the narrow street, flanked by very tall houses, has swallowed you up.
+
+Everything is very clean and orderly, and, although most of the houses
+are very old, they are generally in a good state of repair, exhibiting
+in every case the seaman's love of fresh paint. Thus, the dark and worn
+stone walls have bright eyes in their newly-painted doors and windows.
+Over their doorsteps the fishermen's wives are quite fastidious, and you
+seldom see a mark on the ochre-coloured hearthstone with which the women
+love to brighten the worn stones. Even the scrapers are sleek with
+blacklead, and it is not easy to find a window without spotlessly clean
+curtains. The little coastguard station by the opening on to the shore
+has difficulty in showing itself superior to the rest in these essential
+matters of smartness. However, the coastguards glory in a little stone
+pathway protected by a low wall in front of their building. On this
+narrow quarter-deck the men love to walk to and fro, just as though they
+were afloat and were limited to this space for exercise. At high-tide
+the sea comes halfway up the steep opening between the coastguards'
+quarters and the inn which is built on another bastion, and in rough
+weather the waves break hungrily on to the strong stone walls, for the
+bay is entirely open to the full force of gales from the east or
+north-east. All the way from Scarborough to Whitby the coast offers no
+shelter of any sort in heavy weather, and many vessels have been lost on
+the rocks. On one occasion a small sailing-ship was driven right into
+this bay at high-tide, and the bowsprit smashed into a window of the
+little hotel that occupied the place of the present one.
+
+With angry seas periodically demolishing the outermost houses, it seems
+almost unaccountable that the little town should have persisted in
+clinging so tenaciously to the high-water mark; but there were probably
+two paramount reasons for this. The deep gully was to a great extent
+protected from the force of the winds, and, as it was soon quite brimful
+of houses, every inch of space was valuable; then, smuggling was freely
+practised along the coast, and the more the houses were wedged together,
+the more opportunities for secret hiding-places would be afforded. The
+whole town has a consciously guilty look in its evident desire to
+conceal itself; and the steep narrow streets, the curious passages where
+it is scarcely possible for two people to pass, and the little courts
+which look like culs-de-sac but have a hidden flight of steps leading
+down to another passage, seem to be purposely intricate and confusing.
+For I can imagine a revenue cutter chasing a boat into Robin Hood's Bay,
+and I can see the smugglers hastily landing on the beach and making for
+the town, followed by the Excise officers, who are as unable to trace
+the men as though they had been chasing rabbits in a warren. The stream
+that made this retreat for the fishing-town is now scarcely more than a
+drain when it reaches the houses, for, after passing along the foot of a
+great perpendicular mass of shale, it rushes into a tunnel, and only
+appears again on the shore.
+
+It is strange that there should be so little information as to the
+associations of Robin Hood with this fishing-village. The stories of his
+shooting an arrow to determine where he should make his headquarters
+sound improbable, although his keeping one or two small ships in the bay
+ready for making his escape if suddenly attacked seems a rational
+precaution, and if only there were a little more evidence outside the
+local traditions to go upon, it would be pleasant to let the imagination
+play upon the wild life led by the outlawed Earl of Huntingdon in this
+then inaccessible coast region.
+
+The railway southwards takes a curve inland, and, after winding in and
+out to make the best of the contour of the hills, the train finally
+steams very heavily and slowly into Ravenscar Station, right over the
+Peak and 630 feet above the sea. On the way you get glimpses of the
+moors inland, and grand views over the curving bay. There is a station
+named Fyling Hall, after Sir Hugh Cholmley's old house, halfway to
+Ravenscar. It was about the year 1625 that Sir Hugh to a great extent
+rebuilt Fyling Hall, which is still standing; but he came in with his
+family before the plaster on the walls was thoroughly dry, and the
+household seems to have suffered in health on this account. Shortly
+afterwards Sir Hugh lost his eldest son Richard, who was only five years
+old, and this great trouble decided him to move to Whitby; for in 1629
+he sold Fyling Hall to Sir John Hotham, and took up his residence in the
+Abbey House at Whitby.
+
+Raven Hall, the large house conspicuously perched on the heights above
+the Peak, is now converted into an hotel. There is a wonderful view from
+the castellated terraces, which in the distance suggest the remains of
+some ruined fortress. At the present time there is nothing to be seen
+older than the house whose foundations were dug in 1774. While the
+building operations were in progress, however, a Roman stone, now in
+Whitby Museum, was unearthed. The inscription has been translated:
+'Justinian, governor of the province, and Vindician, general of the
+forces of Upper Britain, for the second time, with the younger
+provincial soldiers built this fort, the manager of public works giving
+his assistance.' There is therefore ample evidence for believing that
+this commanding height was used by the Romans as a military post,
+although subsequently there were no further attempts to fortify the
+place, Scarborough, so much more easily defensible, being chosen
+instead. A rather pathetic attempt to foster the establishment of a
+watering-place has, however, been lately put on foot, but beyond some
+elaborately prepared roads and two or three isolated blocks of houses,
+there is fortunately little response to this artificial cultivation of a
+summer resort on the bare hill-top.
+
+Following this lofty coast southwards, you reach Hayburn Wyke, where a
+stream drops perpendicularly over some square masses of rock. After very
+heavy rains the waterfall attains quite a respectable size, but even
+under such favourable conditions the popularity of the place to a great
+extent spoils what might otherwise be a pleasant surprise to the
+rambler. The woodland paths leading down to the cove from the hotel by
+the station are exceedingly pretty, and in the summer it is not easy to
+find your way, despite the direction-boards nailed to trees here and
+there. But there are many wooded and mossy-pathed ravines equally
+pretty, where no charge is made for admittance, and where you can be
+away from your fellow-mortals and the silver paper they throw away from
+the chocolate they eat.
+
+There is a small stone circle not far from Hayburn Wyke Station, to be
+found without much trouble, and those who are interested in Early Man
+will scarcely find a neighbourhood in this country more thickly
+honeycombed with tumuli and ancient earthworks. There is no particularly
+plain pathway through the fields to the valley where this stone circle
+can be seen, but it can easily be found after a careful study of the
+large scale Ordnance map which they will show you at the hotel; and if
+there be any difficulty in locating the exact position of the stones,
+the people at the neighbouring farm are exceedingly kind in giving
+directions. There are about fifteen monoliths making up the circle, and
+they are all lying flat on the ground, so that in the summer they are
+very much overgrown with rank grass and low bushes. This was probably
+the burial-place of some prehistoric chief, but no mound remains.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+SCARBOROUGH
+
+
+Dazzling sunshine, a furious wind, flapping and screaming gulls, crowds
+of fishing-boats, and innumerable people jostling one another on the
+seafront, made up the chief features of my first view of Scarborough. By
+degrees I discovered that behind the gulls and the brown sails were old
+houses, their roofs dimly red through the transparent haze, and above
+them appeared a great green cliff, with its uneven outline defined by
+the curtain walls and towers of the castle which had made Scarborough a
+place of importance in the Civil War and in earlier times.
+
+The wide-curving bay was filled with huge breaking waves which looked
+capable of destroying everything within their reach, but they seemed
+harmless enough when I looked a little further out, where eight or ten
+gray warships were riding at their anchors, apparently motionless.
+
+From the outer arm of the harbour, where the seas were angrily
+attempting to dislodge the top row of stones, I could make out the great
+mass of gray buildings stretching right to the extremity of the bay.
+
+I tried to pick out individual buildings from this city-like
+watering-place, but, beyond discovering the position of the Spa and one
+or two of the mightier hotels, I could see very little, and instead fell
+to wondering how many landladies and how many foreign waiters the long
+lines of gray roofs represented. This raised so many unpleasant
+recollections of the various types I had encountered that I determined
+to go no nearer to modern Scarborough than the pier-head upon which I
+stood. A specially big wave, however, soon drove me from this position
+to a drier if more crowded spot, and, reconsidering my objections, I
+determined to see something of the innumerable gray streets which make
+up the fashionable watering-place. The terraced gardens on the steep
+cliffs along the sea-front were most elaborately well kept, but a more
+striking feature of Scarborough is the magnificence of so many of the
+shops. They suggest a city rather than a seaside town, and give you an
+idea of the magnitude of the permanent population of the place as well
+as the flood of summer and winter visitors. The origin of Scarborough's
+popularity was undoubtedly due to the chalybeate waters of the Spa,
+discovered in 1620, almost at the same time as those of Tunbridge Wells
+and Epsom.
+
+The unmistakable signs of antiquity in the narrow streets adjoining the
+harbour irresistibly remind one of the days when sea-bathing had still
+to be popularized, when the efficacy of Scarborough's medicinal spring
+had not been discovered, of the days when the place bore as little
+resemblance to its present size or appearance as the fishing-town at
+Robin Hood's Bay.
+
+We do not know that Piers Gaveston, Sir Hugh Cholmley, and other
+notabilities who have left their mark on the pages of Scarborough's
+history, might not, were they with us to-day, welcome the pierrot, the
+switchback, the restaurant, and other means by which pleasure-loving
+visitors wile away their hardly-earned holidays; but for my part the
+story of Scarborough's Mayor who was tossed in a blanket is far more
+entertaining than the songs of nigger minstrels or any of the commercial
+attempts to amuse.
+
+This strangely improper procedure with one who held the highest office
+in the municipality took place in the reign of James II., and the King's
+leanings towards Popery were the cause of all the trouble.
+
+On April 27, 1688, a declaration for liberty of conscience was
+published, and by royal command the said declaration was to be read in
+every Protestant church in the land. Mr. Thomas Aislabie, the Mayor of
+Scarborough, duly received a copy of the document, and, having handed it
+to the clergyman, Mr. Noel Boteler, ordered him to read it in church on
+the following Sunday morning. There seems little doubt that the worthy
+Mr. Boteler at once recognised a wily move on the part of the King, who
+under the cover of general tolerance would foster the growth of the
+Roman religion until such time as the Catholics had attained sufficient
+power to suppress Protestantism. Mr. Mayor was therefore informed that
+the declaration would not be read. On Sunday morning (August 11) when
+the omission had been made, the Mayor left his pew, and, stick in hand,
+walked up the aisle, seized the minister, and caned him as he stood at
+his reading-desk. Scenes of such a nature did not occur every day even
+in 1688, and the storm of indignation and excitement among the members
+of the congregation did not subside so quickly as it had risen.
+
+The cause of the poor minister was championed in particular by a certain
+Captain Ouseley, and the discussion of the matter on the bowling-green
+on the following day led to the suggestion that the Mayor should be sent
+for to explain his conduct. As he took no notice of a courteous message
+requesting his attendance, the Captain repeated the summons accompanied
+by a file of musketeers. In the meantime many suggestions for dealing
+with Mr. Aislabie in a fitting manner were doubtless made by the
+Captain's brother officers, and, further, some settled course of action
+seems to have been agreed upon, for we do not hear of any hesitation on
+the part of the Captain on the arrival of the Mayor, whose rage must by
+this time have been bordering upon apoplexy. A strong blanket was ready,
+and Captains Carvil, Fitzherbert, Hanmer, and Rodney, led by Captain
+Ouseley and assisted by as many others as could find room, seizing the
+sides, in a very few moments Mr. Mayor was revolving and bumping, rising
+and falling, as though he were no weight at all.
+
+This public degradation was too much to be borne without substantial
+redress. He therefore set out at once for London to obtain satisfaction
+from his Sovereign. But Ouseley was wise enough to look after his own
+interests in that quarter himself, and in two letters we see the upshot
+of the matter.
+
+
+  'LONDON,
+
+  'September 22, 1688.
+
+  '....Captain Ouseley is said to be come to
+   town to give reasons for tossing the mayor of
+   Scarborough in a blanket. As part of his plea he
+   has brought with him a collection of articles against
+   the said mayor, and the attestations of many gentlemen
+   of note.'
+
+
+  'LONDON,
+
+  'September 29, 1688.
+
+  'The mayor of Scarborough and Captain Ouseley,
+   who tossed the other in a blanket, were heard last
+   night before the council: the Captain pleaded his
+   majesty's gracious pardon (which is in the press)
+   and so both were dismissed.'
+
+
+Aislabie was the last of the only five Mayors the town had then known,
+and the fact that the office had only been instituted in 1684 seems to
+show that what reverence had gathered round the person of the chief
+magistrate was not sufficient to stand in the face of such outrageous
+conduct as the public caning of the minister. The townsfolk decided that
+they had had enough of Mayors, for on November 16 in the same autumn
+Scarborough was once more placed under the control of two Bailiffs, as
+had been the case previous to 1684.
+
+If the castle does not show many interesting buildings beyond the keep
+and the long line of walls and drum-towers, there is so much concerning
+it that is of great human interest that I should scarcely feel able to
+grumble if there were still fewer remains. Behind the ancient houses in
+Quay Street rises the steep, grassy cliff, up which one must climb by
+various rough pathways to the fortified summit. On the side facing the
+mainland, a hollow, known as the Dyke, is bridged by a tall and narrow
+archway, in place of the drawbridge of the seventeenth century and
+earlier times. On the same side is a massive gateway, looking across an
+open space to St. Mary's Church, which suffered so severely during the
+sieges of the castle. The maimed church--for the chancel has never been
+rebuilt--looks across the Dyke to the shattered keep, and so apparent
+are the results of the cannonading between them that no one requires to
+be told that the Parliamentary forces mounted their ordnance in the
+chancel and tower of the church, and it is equally apparent that the
+Royalists returned the fire hotly.
+
+The great siege lasted for nearly a year, and although his garrison was
+small, and there was practically no hope of relief, Sir Hugh Cholmley
+seems to have kept a stout heart up to the end. With him throughout this
+long period of privation and suffering was his beautiful and courageous
+wife, whose comparatively early death, at the age of fifty-four, must to
+some extent be attributed to the strain and fatigue borne during these
+months of warfare. Sir Hugh seems to have almost worshipped his wife,
+for in his memoirs he is never weary of describing her perfections.
+
+'She was of the middle stature of women,' he writes, 'and well shaped,
+yet in that not so singular as in the beauty of her face, which was but
+of a little model, and yet proportionable to her body; her eyes black
+and full of loveliness and sweetness, her eyebrows small and even, as if
+drawn with a pencil, a very little, pretty, well-shaped mouth, which
+sometimes (especially when in a muse or study) she would draw up into an
+incredible little compass; her hair a sad chestnut; her complexion
+brown, but clear, with a fresh colour in her cheeks, a loveliness in her
+looks inexpressible; and by her whole composure was so beautiful a sweet
+creature at her marriage as not many did parallel, few exceed her in the
+nation; yet the inward endowments and perfections of her mind did exceed
+those outward of her body, being a most pious virtuous person, of great
+integrity and discerning judgment in most things.'
+
+Her husband speaks of her 'sweet good-nature,' and of how she was always
+ready to be touched with other people's wants before her own. That such
+nobleness of character should shine out brilliantly during the siege was
+inevitable, and Sir Hugh tells us that, though she was of a timorous
+nature, she bore herself during great danger with 'a courage above her
+sex.' On one occasion Sir John Meldrum, the Parliamentary commander,
+sent proposals to Sir Hugh Cholmley, which he accompanied with savage
+threats, that if his terms were not immediately accepted he would make a
+general assault on the castle that night, and in the event of one drop
+of his men's blood being shed he would give orders for a general
+massacre of the garrison, sparing neither man nor woman.
+
+To a man whose devotion to his beautiful wife was so great, a threat of
+this nature must have been a severe shock to his determination to hold
+out. But from his own writings we are able to picture for ourselves Sir
+Hugh's anxious and troubled face lighting up on the approach of the
+cause of his chief concern. Lady Cholmley, without any sign of the
+inward misgivings or dejection which, with her gentle and shrinking
+nature, must have been a great struggle, came to her husband, and
+implored him to on no account let her peril influence his decision to
+the detriment of his own honour or the King's affairs.
+
+Sir John Meldrum's proposals having been rejected, the garrison prepared
+itself for the furious attack commenced on May 11.
+
+The assault was well planned, for while the Governor's attention was
+turned towards the gateway leading to the castle entrance, another
+attack was made at the southern end of the wall towards the sea, where
+until the year 1730 Charles's Tower stood. The bloodshed at this point
+was greater than at the gateway. At the head of a chosen division of
+troops, Sir John Meldrum climbed the almost precipitous ascent with
+wonderful courage, only to meet with such spirited resistance on the
+part of the besieged that, when the attack was abandoned, it was
+discovered that Meldrum had received a dangerous wound penetrating to
+his thigh, and that several of his officers and men had been killed.
+Meanwhile, at the gateway, the first success of the assailants had been
+checked at the foot of the Grand Tower or Keep, for at that point the
+rush of drab-coated and helmeted men was received by such a shower of
+stones and missiles that many stumbled and were crushed on the steep
+pathway. Not even Cromwell's men could continue to face such a
+reception, and before very long the Governor could embrace his wife in
+the knowledge that the great attack had failed.
+
+In between such scenes as these, when the air was filled with the shouts
+and yells of attackers and besieged, when the crack of the muskets and
+the intermittent reports of the cannon almost deafened her, Lady
+Cholmley was assiduously attending to the wounded and the many cases of
+scurvy, which was rampant among the garrison. One of her maids who
+shared these labours crept out of the castle one night with a view to
+reaching the town and escaping further drudgery and privations; but a
+Roundhead sentry discovered her and sent her back to the castle,
+thinking that she was a spy. When the great keep was partially
+destroyed, Lady Cholmley was forced 'to lie in a little cabbin on the
+ground several months together, when she took a defluction of rhume upon
+one of her eyes, which troubled her ever after, and got also a touch of
+the scurvy then rife in the castle, and of which it is thought she was
+not well after.' Who can wonder that Sir Hugh appreciated the courage of
+this noble lady, and I marvel still more at her fortitude when I read of
+the frailties her husband mentions so gently, fearing, no doubt, that
+without a few shadows no one would accept his picture as genuine. 'If
+she had taken impression of anything, it was hard to remove it with
+reason or argument, till she had considered of it herself; neither could
+she well endure adversity or crosses, though it pleased the Lord to
+exercise her with them, by my many troubles and the calamity of the
+times. She would be much troubled at evils which could neither be
+prevented nor remedied, and sometimes discontented without any great
+cause, especially in her disposition of health; for, being of a tender
+constitution, and spun of a fine thread, every disaster took impression
+on her body and mind, and would make her both sick and often inclinable
+to be melancholy, especially in my absence.'
+
+At last, on July 22, 1645--his forty-fifth birthday--Sir Hugh was forced
+to come to an agreement with the enemy, by which he honourably
+surrendered the castle three days later. It was a sad procession that
+wound its way down the steep pathway, littered with the debris of broken
+masonry: for many of Sir Hugh's officers and soldiers were in such a
+weak condition that they had to be carried out in sheets or helped along
+between two men, and the Parliamentary officer adds, rather tersely,
+that 'the rest were not very fit to march.' The scurvy had depleted the
+ranks of the defenders to such an extent that the women in the castle,
+despite the presence of Lady Cholmley, threatened to stone the Governor
+unless he capitulated.
+
+The reduction of Scarborough Castle was considered a profound success to
+the side of the Parliament, 'The Moderate Intelligencer' of July 23,
+1645, announcing the fact with great satisfaction, 'we heare likewise
+that _Scarborough_ is also yeelded into our hands, Sir Hugh hath none
+other conditions for himself, but with his wife and children passe
+beyond seas. This is excellent good newes, and is a very terrible blow
+to the enemy.'
+
+Three years later the castle was again besieged by the Parliamentary
+forces, for Colonel Matthew Boynton, the Governor, had declared for the
+King. The garrison held out from August to December, when terms were
+made with Colonel Hugh Bethell, by which the Governor, officers,
+gentlemen, and soldiers, marched out with 'their colours flying, drums
+beating, musquets loaden, bandeleers filled, matches lighted, and bullet
+in mouth, to a close called Scarborough Common,' where they laid down
+their arms.
+
+Before I leave Scarborough I must go back to early times, in order that
+the antiquity of the place may not be slighted owing to the omission of
+any reference to the town in the Domesday Book. Tosti, Count of
+Northumberland, who, as everyone knows, was brother of the Harold who
+fought at Senlac Hill, had brought about an insurrection of the
+Northumbrians, and having been dispossessed by his brother, he revenged
+himself by inviting the help of Haralld Hadrada, King of Norway. The
+Norseman promptly accepted the offer, and, taking with him his family
+and an army of warriors, sailed for the Shetlands, where Tosti joined
+him. The united forces then came down the east coast of Britain until
+they reached Scardaburgum, where they landed and prepared to fight the
+inhabitants. The town was then built entirely of timber, and there was,
+apparently, no castle of any description on the great hill, for the
+Norsemen, finding their opponents inclined to offer a stout resistance,
+tried other tactics. They gained possession of the hill, constructed a
+huge fire, and when the wood was burning fiercely, flung the blazing
+brands down on to the wooden houses below. The fire spread from one hut
+to another with sufficient speed to drive out the defenders, who in the
+confusion which followed were slaughtered by the enemy.
+
+This occurred in the momentous year 1066, when Harold, having defeated
+the Norsemen and slain Haralld Hadrada at Stamford Bridge, had to hurry
+southwards to meet William the Norman at Hastings. It is not surprising,
+therefore, that the compilers of the Conqueror's survey should have
+failed to record the existence of the blackened embers of what had once
+been a town. But such a site as the castle hill could not long remain
+idle in the stormy days of the Norman Kings, and William le Gros, Earl
+of Albemarle and Lord of Holderness, recognising the natural
+defensibility of the rock, built the massive walls which have withstood
+so many assaults, and even now form the most prominent feature of
+Scarborough.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+WHITBY
+
+
+  'Behold the glorious summer sea
+   As night's dark wings unfold,
+   And o'er the waters, 'neath the stars,
+   The harbour lights behold.'
+
+E. Teschemacher.
+
+Despite a huge influx of summer visitors, and despite the modern town
+which has grown up to receive them, Whitby is still one of the most
+strikingly picturesque towns in England. But at the same time, if one
+excepts the abbey, the church, and the market-house, there are scarcely
+any architectural attractions in the town. The charm of the place does
+not lie so much in detail as in broad effects. The narrow streets have
+no surprises in the way of carved-oak brackets or curious panelled
+doorways, although narrow passages and steep flights of stone steps
+abound. On the other hand, the old parts of the town, when seen from a
+distance, are always presenting themselves in new apparel.
+
+In the early morning the East Cliff generally appears merely as a pale
+gray silhouette with a square projection representing the church, and a
+fretted one the abbey. But as the sun climbs upwards, colour and
+definition grow out of the haze of smoke and shadows, and the roofs
+assume their ruddy tones. At mid-day, when the sunlight pours down upon
+the medley of houses clustered along the face of the cliff, the scene is
+brilliantly coloured. The predominant note is the red of the chimneys
+and roofs and stray patches of brickwork, but the walls that go down to
+the water's edge are green below and full of rich browns above, and in
+many places the sides of the cottages are coloured with an ochre wash,
+while above them all the top of the cliff appears covered with grass. On
+a clear day, when detached clouds are passing across the sun, the houses
+are sometimes lit up in the strangest fashion, their quaint outlines
+being suddenly thrown out from the cliff by a broad patch of shadow upon
+the grass and rocks behind. But there is scarcely a chimney in this old
+part of Whitby that does not contribute to the mist of blue-gray smoke
+that slowly drifts up the face of the cliff, and thus, when there is no
+bright sunshine, colour and detail are subdued in the haze.
+
+In many towns whose antiquity and picturesqueness are more popular than
+the attractions of Whitby, the railway deposits one in some
+distressingly ugly modern excrescence, from which it may even be
+necessary for a stranger to ask his way to the old-world features he has
+come to see. But at Whitby the railway, without doing any harm to the
+appearance of the town, at once gives a visitor as typical a scene of
+fishing-life as he will ever find. When the tide is up and the wharves
+are crowded with boats, this upper portion of Whitby Harbour is at its
+best, and to step from the railway compartment entered at King's Cross
+into this busy scene is an experience to be remembered.
+
+In the deepening twilight of a clear evening the harbour gathers to
+itself the additional charm of mysterious indefiniteness, and among the
+long-drawn-out reflections appear sinuous lines of yellow light beneath
+the lamps by the bridge. Looking towards the ocean from the outer
+harbour, one sees the massive arms which Whitby has thrust into the
+waves, holding aloft the steady lights that
+
+
+  'Safely guide the mighty ships
+   Into the harbour bay.'
+
+If we keep to the waterside, modern Whitby has no terrors for us. It is
+out of sight, and might therefore have never existed. But when we have
+crossed the bridge, and passed along the narrow thoroughfare known as
+Church Street to the steps leading up the face of the cliff, we must
+prepare ourselves for a new aspect of the town. There, upon the top of
+the West Cliff, stand rows of sad-looking and dun-coloured
+lodging-houses, relieved by the aggressive bulk of a huge hotel, with
+corner turrets, that frowns savagely at the unfinished crescent, where
+there are many apartments with 'rooms facing the sea.' The only
+redeeming feature of this modern side of Whitby is the circumscribed
+area it occupies, so that the view from the top of the 199 steps we have
+climbed is not altogether vitiated. A distinctive feature of the west
+side of the river has been lost in the sails of the Union Mill, which
+were taken down some years ago, and the solid brick building where many
+of the Whitby people, by the excellent method of cooperation, obtained
+their flour at reduced prices is now the headquarters of some
+volunteers.
+
+The town seems to have no idea of re-erecting the sails of the windmill,
+and as I have so far heard of no scheme for demolishing the
+unpleasant-looking houses on the West Cliff, we will shut our eyes to
+these shortcomings, and admit that the task is not difficult in the
+presence of such a superb view over Whitby's glorious surroundings. We
+look over the chimney-stacks of the topmost houses, and see the silver
+Esk winding placidly in the deep channel it has carved for itself; and
+further away we see the far-off moorland heights, brown and blue, where
+the sources of the broad river down below are fed by the united efforts
+of innumerable tiny streams deep in the heather. Behind us stands the
+massive-looking parish church, with its Norman tower, so sturdily built
+that its height seems scarcely greater than its breadth. There is surely
+no other church with such a ponderous exterior that is so completely
+deceptive as to its internal aspect, for St. Mary's contains the most
+remarkable series of beehive-like galleries that were ever crammed into
+a parish church. They are not merely very wide and ill-arranged, but
+they are superposed one above the other. The free use of white paint all
+over the sloping tiers of pews has prevented the interior from being as
+dark as it would have otherwise been, but the result of all this painted
+deal has been to give the building the most eccentric and indecorous
+appearance. Still, there are few who will fail to thank the good folks
+of Whitby for preserving an ecclesiastical curiosity of such an unusual
+nature. The box-pews on the floor of the church are separated by very
+narrow gangways--we cannot call them aisles--and the gallery across the
+chancel arch is particularly noticeable for the twisted wooden columns
+supporting it. Various pews in the transepts and elsewhere have been
+reserved for many generations for the use of people from outlying
+villages, such as Aislaby, Ugglebarnby, and Hawskercum-Stainsacre, and
+it was this necessity for accommodating a very large congregation that
+taxed the ingenuity of the churchwardens, and resulted in the strange
+interior existing to-day.
+
+The early history of Whitby from the time of the landing of Roman
+soldiers in Dunsley Bay seems to be very closely associated with the
+abbey founded by Hilda about two years after the battle of Winwidfield,
+fought on November 15, A.D. 654; but I will not venture to state an
+opinion here as to whether there was any town at Streoneshalh before the
+building of the abbey, or whether the place that has since become known
+as Whitby grew on account of the presence of the abbey. Such matters as
+these have been fought out by an expert in the archaeology of
+Cleveland--the late Canon Atkinson, who seemed to take infinite pleasure
+in demolishing the elaborately constructed theories of those painstaking
+historians of the eighteenth century, Dr. Young and Mr. Lionel Charlton.
+
+Many facts, however, which throw light on the early days of the abbey
+are now unassailable. We see that Hilda must have been a most remarkable
+woman for her times, instilling into those around her a passion for
+learning as well as right-living, for despite the fact that they worked
+and prayed in rude wooden buildings, with walls formed, most probably,
+of split tree-trunks, after the fashion of the church at Greenstead in
+Essex, we find the institution producing, among others, such men as Bosa
+and John, both Bishops of York, and such a poet as Caadmon. The legend
+of his inspiration, however, may be placed beside the story of how the
+saintly Abbess turned the snakes into the fossil ammonites with which
+the liassic shores of Whitby are strewn. Hilda, who probably died in the
+year 680, was succeeded by Aelfleda, the daughter of King Oswin of
+Northumbria, whom she had trained in the abbey, and there seems little
+doubt that her pupil carried on successfully the beneficent work of the
+foundress.
+
+Aelfleda had the support of her mother's presence as well as the wise
+counsels of Bishop Trumwine, who had taken refuge at Streoneshalh, after
+having been driven from his own sphere of work by the depredations of
+the Picts and Scots. We then learn that Aelfleda died at the age of
+fifty-nine, but from that year--probably 713--a complete silence falls
+upon the work of the abbey; for if any records were made during the next
+century and a half, they have been totally lost. About the year 867 the
+Danes reached this part of Yorkshire, and we know that they laid waste
+the abbey, and most probably the town also; but the invaders gradually
+started new settlements, or 'bys,' and Whitby must certainly have grown
+into a place of some size by the time of Edward the Confessor, for just
+previous to the Norman invasion it was assessed for Danegeld to the
+extent of a sum equivalent to £3,500 at the present time.
+
+After the Conquest a monk named Reinfrid succeeded in reviving a
+monastery on the site of the old one, having probably gained the
+permission of William de Percy, the lord of the district. The new
+establishment, however, was for monks only, and was for some time
+merely a priory.
+
+The form of the successive buildings from the time of Hilda until the
+building of the stately abbey church, whose ruins are now to be seen, is
+a subject of great interest, but, unfortunately, there are few facts to
+go upon. The very first church was, as I have already suggested, a
+building of rude construction, scarcely better than the humble dwellings
+of the monks and nuns. The timber walls were most probably thatched, and
+the windows would be of small lattice or boards pierced with small
+holes. Gradually the improvements brought about would have led to the
+use of stone for the walls, and the buildings destroyed by the Danes
+probably resembled such examples of Anglo-Saxon work as may still be
+seen in the churches of Bradford-on-Avon and Monkwearmouth.
+
+The buildings erected by Reinfrid under the Norman influence then
+prevailing in England must have been a slight advance upon the destroyed
+fabric, and we know that during the time of his successor, Serlo de
+Percy, there was a certain Godfrey in charge of the building operations,
+and there is every reason to believe that he completed the church during
+the fifty years of prosperity the monastery passed through at that time.
+But this was not the structure which survived, for towards the end of
+Stephen's reign, or during that of Henry II., the unfortunate convent
+was devastated by the King of Norway, who entered the harbour, and, in
+the words of the chronicle, 'laid waste everything, both within doors
+and without.' The abbey slowly recovered from this disaster, and if any
+church were built on the ruins between 1160 and the reconstruction
+commenced in 1220, there is no part of it surviving to-day in the
+beautiful ruin that still makes a conspicuous landmark from the sea.
+
+It was after the Dissolution that the abbey buildings came into the
+hands of Sir Richard Cholmley, who paid over to Henry VIII. the sum of
+£333 8s. 4d. The manors of Eskdaleside and Ugglebarnby, with all 'their
+rights, members and appurtenances as they formerly had belonged to the
+abbey of Whitby,' henceforward belonged to Sir Richard and his
+successors. Sir Hugh Cholmley, whose defence of Scarborough Castle has
+made him a name in history, was born on July 22, 1600, at Roxby, near
+Pickering. He has been justly called 'the father of Whitby,' and it is
+to him we owe a fascinating account of his life at Whitby in Stuart and
+Jacobean times. He describes how he lived for some time in the
+gate-house of the abbey buildings, 'till my house was repaired and
+habitable, which then was very ruinous and all unhandsome, the wall
+being only of timber and plaster, and ill-contrived within: and besides
+the repairs, or rather re-edifying the house, I built the stable and
+barn, I heightened the outwalls of the court double to what they were,
+and made all the wall round about the paddock; so that the place hath
+been improved very much, both for beauty and profit, by me more than all
+my ancestors, for there was not a tree about the house but was set in my
+time, and almost by my own hand. The Court levels, which laid upon a
+hanging ground, unhandsomely, very ill-watered, having only the low
+well, which is in the Almsers-close, which I covered; and also
+discovered, and erected, the other adjoining conduit, and the well in
+the courtyard from whence I conveyed by leaden pipes water into the
+house, brewhouse, and washhouse.'
+
+In the spring of 1636 the reconstruction of the abbey house was
+finished, and Sir Hugh moved in with his family. 'My dear wife,' he
+says, '(who was excellent at dressing and making all handsome within
+doors) had put it into a fine posture, and furnished with many good
+things, so that, I believe, there were few gentlemen in the country, of
+my rank, exceeded it.... I was at this time made Deputy-lieutenant and
+Colonel over the Train-bands within the hundred of Whitby Strand,
+Ryedale, Pickering, Lythe and Scarborough town; for that, my father
+being dead, the country looked upon me as the chief of my family.'
+
+Sir Hugh had been somewhat addicted to gambling in his younger days, and
+had made a few debts of his own before he undertook to deal with his
+father's heavy liabilities, and in the early years of his married life
+he had been very much taken up with the difficult and arduous work of
+paying off the amounts due to the clamorous creditors. During this
+process he had been forced to live very quietly, and had incidentally
+sifted out his real friends from among his relations and acquaintances.
+Thus, it is with pardonable pride that he says: 'Having mastered my
+debts, I did not only appear at all public meetings in a very
+gentlemanly equipage, but lived in as handsome and plentiful fashion at
+home as any gentleman in all the country, of my rank. I had between
+thirty and forty in my ordinary family, a chaplain who said prayers
+every morning at six, and again before dinner and supper, a porter who
+merely attended the gates, which were ever shut up before dinner, when
+the bell rung to prayers, and not opened till one o'clock, except for
+some strangers who came to dinner, which was ever fit to receive three
+or four besides my family, without any trouble; and whatever their fare
+was, they were sure to have a hearty welcome. Twice a week, a certain
+number of old people, widows and indigent persons, were served at my
+gates with bread and good pottage made of beef, which I mention that
+those which succeed may follow the example.' Not content with merely
+benefiting the aged folk of his town, Sir Hugh took great pains to
+extend the piers, and in 1632 went to London to petition the
+'Council-table' to allow a general contribution for this purpose
+throughout the country. As a result of his efforts, 'all that part of
+the pier to the west end of the harbour' was erected, and yet he
+complains that, though it was the means of preserving a large section of
+the town from the sea, the townsfolk would not interest themselves in
+the repairs necessitated by force of the waves. 'I wish, with all my
+heart,' he exclaims, 'the next generation may have more public spirit.'
+
+Sir Hugh Cholmley also built a market-house for the town, and removed
+the bridge to its present position. Owing to rebuilding, neither of
+these actual works remains with us to-day, but their influence on the
+progress of Whitby must have been considerable.
+
+On a June morning in the year after Sir Hugh had settled down so
+handsomely in his refurbished house, two Dutch men-of-war chased into
+the harbour 'a small pickroon belonging to the King of Spain.' The
+Hollanders had 400 men in one ship and 200 in the other, but the
+Spaniard had only thirty men and two small guns. The Holland ships
+proceeded to anchor outside the harbour, and, lowering their longboats,
+sent ashore forty men, all armed with pistols. But the Spaniards had
+been on the alert, and having warped their vessel to a safer position
+above the bridge, they placed their two guns on the deck, and every man
+prepared himself to defend the ship.
+
+'I, having notice of this,' writes Sir Hugh, 'fearing they might do here
+the like affront as they did at Scarborough, where they landed one
+hundred men, and took a ship belonging to the King of Spain out of the
+harbour, sent for the Holland Captains, and ordered them not to offer
+any act of hostility; for that the Spaniard was the King's friend, and
+to have protection in his ports. After some expostulations, they
+promised not to meddle with the Dunkirker [Spaniard] if he offered no
+injury to them; which I gave him strict charge against, and to trust to
+the King's protection. These Holland Captains leaving me, and going into
+the town, sent for the Dunkirk Captain to dine with them, and soon after
+took occasion to quarrel with him, at the same time ordered their men to
+fall on the Dunkirk ship, which they soon surprised, the Captain and
+most of the men being absent. I being in my courtyard, and hearing some
+pistols discharged, and being told the Dunkirker and Hollanders were at
+odds, made haste unto the town, having only a cane in my hand, and one
+that followed me without any weapon, thinking my presence would pacify
+all differences. When I came to the river-side, on the sand between the
+coal-yard and the bridge, I found the Holland Captain with a pistol in
+his hand, calling to his men, then in the Dunkirk ship, to send a boat
+for him. I gave him good words, and held him in treaty until I got near
+him, and then, giving a leap on him, caught hold of his pistol, which I
+became master of; yet not without some hazard from the ship, for one
+from thence levelled a musket at me; but I espying it, turned the
+Captain between me and him, which prevented his shooting.'
+
+When Sir Hugh had secured the Captain, he sent a boatload of men to
+retake the ship, and as soon as the Hollanders saw it approaching, they
+fled to their own vessels outside the harbour. In the afternoon Sir Hugh
+intercepted a letter to his prisoner, telling him to be of good cheer,
+for at midnight they would land 200 men and bring him away. This was a
+serious matter, and Sir Hugh sent to Sir John Hotham, the High Sheriff
+of the county, who at once came from Fyling, and summoned all the
+adjacent train-bands. There were about 200 men on guard all through the
+night, and evidently the Hollanders had observed the activity on shore,
+for they made no attack. The ships continued to hover outside the
+harbour for two or three days, until Sir Hugh sent the Captain to York.
+He was afterwards taken to London, where he remained a prisoner, after
+the fashion of those times, for nearly two years.
+
+It was after the troublous times of the Civil War that Sir Hugh
+re-established himself at Whitby, and opened a new era of prosperity for
+himself and the townsfolk in the alum-works at Saltwick Nab.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+THE CLEVELAND HILLS
+
+On their their northern and western flanks the Cleveland Hills have a
+most imposing and mountainous aspect, although their greatest altitudes
+do not aspire more than about 1,500 feet. But they rise so suddenly to
+their full height out of the flat sea of green country that they often
+appear as a coast defended by a bold range of mountains. Roseberry
+Topping stands out in grim isolation, on its masses of alum rock, like a
+huge seaworn crag, considerably over 1,000 feet high. But this strangely
+menacing peak raises its defiant head over nothing but broad meadows,
+arable land, and woodlands, and his only warfare is with the lower
+strata of storm-clouds, which is a convenient thing for the people who
+live in these parts; for long ago they used the peak as a sign of
+approaching storms, having reduced the warning to the easily-remembered
+couplet:
+
+    'When Roseberry Topping wears a cap, 
+     Let Cleveland then beware of a clap.'
+
+In a similar manner the Scarborough folk used Oliver's Mount, the
+isolated hill at the back of the town, as a ready-made barometer, for
+they knew that
+
+  'When Oliver's Mount puts on his hat,
+   Scarborough town will pay for that.'
+
+It is difficult to decide on the correct spelling of Roseberry Topping,
+as it is often spelt in the same way as the earldom, and as frequently
+in old writings it appears as 'Rosebury.' Camden, who wrote in Tudor
+times, called it Ounsberry Topping, which certainly does not
+help matters.
+
+From the fact that you can see this remarkable peak from almost every
+point of the compass except south-westwards, it must follow that from
+the top of the hill there are views in all those directions. But to see
+so much of the country at once comes as a surprise to everyone.
+Stretching inland towards the backbone of England, there is spread out a
+huge tract of smiling country, covered with a most complex network of
+hedges, which gradually melt away into the indefinite blue edge of the
+world where the hills of Wensleydale rise from the plain. Looking across
+the little town of Guisborough, lying near the shelter of the hills, to
+the broad sweep of the North Sea, this piece of Yorkshire seems so small
+that one almost expects to see the Cheviots away in the north. But,
+beyond the winding Tees and the drifting smoke of the great
+manufacturing towns on its banks, one must be content with the county of
+Durham, a huge section of which is plainly visible. Turning towards the
+brown moorlands, the cultivation is exchanged for ridge beyond ridge of
+total desolation--a huge tract of land in this crowded England where the
+population for many square miles at a time consists of the inmates of a
+lonely farm or two in the circumscribed cultivated areas of the dales.
+
+Eight or nine hundred years ago these valleys were choked up with
+forests. The Early British inhabitants were more inclined to the
+hill-tops than the hollows, if the innumerable indications of their
+settlements be any guide, and there is every reason for believing that
+many of the hollows in the folds of the heathery moorlands were rarely
+visited by man. Thus, the suggestion has been made that a few of the
+last representatives of now extinct monsters may have survived in these
+wild retreats, for how otherwise do we find persistent stories in these
+parts of Yorkshire, handed down we cannot tell how many centuries, of
+strange creatures described as 'worms'? At Loftus they show you the spot
+where a 'grisly worm' had its lair, and in many places there are
+traditions of strange long-bodied dragons who were slain by various
+valiant men.
+
+When we remember that the last wolf was killed in Scotland in the
+seventeenth century, that Africa is still adding to the list of living
+animals, and that the caves at Kirkdale, near Kirby Moorside, revealed
+the bones of elephants, tigers, hyenas, and rhinoceroses, in an
+excellent state of preservation, though they were all broken, we are
+inclined to believe that these strange stories may have had some
+basis of fact.
+
+On Easby Moor, a few miles to the south of Roseberry Topping, the tall
+column to the memory of Captain Cook stands like a lighthouse on this
+inland coast-line. The lofty position it occupies among these brown and
+purply-green heights makes the monument visible over a great tract of
+the sailor's native Cleveland. The people who live in Marton, the
+village of his birthplace, can see the memorial of their hero's fame,
+and the country lads of to-day are constantly reminded of the success
+which attended the industry and perseverance of a humble Marton boy.
+
+The cottage where James Cook was born in 1728 has gone, but the field in
+which it stood is called Cook's Garth. The shop at Staithes, generally
+spoken of as a 'huckster's,' where Cook was apprenticed as a boy, has
+also disappeared; but, unfortunately, that unpleasant story of his
+having taken a shilling from his master's till, when the attractions of
+the sea proved too much for him to resist, persistently clings to all
+accounts of his early life. There seems no evidence to convict him of
+this theft, but there are equally no facts by which to clear him. But if
+we put into the balance his subsequent term of employment at Whitby, the
+excellent character he gained when he went to sea, and Professor J.K.
+Laughton's statement that he left Staithes 'after some disagreement with
+his master,' there seems every reason to believe that the story is
+untrue. If it were otherwise, the towering monument on Easby Moor would
+be a questionable inspiration to posterity.
+
+I have seldom seen a more uninhabited and inhospitable-looking country
+than the broad extent of purple hills that stretch away to the
+south-west from Great Ayton and Kildale Moors. Walking from Guisborough
+to Kildale on a wild and stormy afternoon in October, I was totally
+alone for the whole distance when I had left behind me the baker's boy
+who was on his way to Hutton with a heavy basket of bread and cakes.
+Hutton, which is somewhat of a model village for the retainers attached
+to Hutton Hall, stands in a lovely hollow at the edge of the moors. The
+steep hills are richly clothed with sombre woods, and the peace and
+seclusion reigning there is in marked contrast to the bleak wastes
+above. When I climbed the steep road on that autumn afternoon, and,
+passing the zone of tall, withered bracken, reached the open moorland, I
+seemed to have come out merely to be the plaything of the elements; for
+the south-westerly gale, when it chose to do so, blew so fiercely that
+it was difficult to make any progress at all. Overhead was a dark roof
+composed of heavy masses of cloud, forming long parallel lines of gray
+right to the horizon. On each side of the rough, water-worn road the
+heather made a low wall, two or three feet high, and stretched right
+away to the horizon in every direction. In the lulls, between the fierce
+blasts, I could hear the trickle of the water in the rivulets deep down
+in the springy cushion of heather. A few nimble sheep would stare at me
+from a distance, and then disappear, or some grouse might hover over a
+piece of rising ground; but otherwise there were no signs of living
+creatures. Nearing Kildale, the road suddenly plunged downwards to a
+stream flowing through a green, cultivated valley, with a lonely farm on
+the further slope. There was a fir-wood above this, and as I passed over
+the hill, among the tall, bare stems, the clouds parted a little in the
+west, and let a flood of golden light into the wood. Instantly the gloom
+seemed to disappear, and beyond the dark shoulder of moorland, where the
+Cook monument appeared against the glory of the sunset, there seemed to
+reign an all-pervading peace, the wood being quite silent, for the wind
+had dropped.
+
+The rough track through the trees descended hurriedly, and soon gave a
+wide view over Kildale. The valley was full of colour from the glowing
+west, and the steep hillsides opposite appeared lighter than the indigo
+clouds above, now slightly tinged with purple. The little village of
+Kildale nestled down below, its church half buried in yellow foliage.
+
+The railway comes through Eskdale from Whitby to Stockton-on-Tees, and
+thus gives the formerly remote valley easy communication with the
+outside world. It is dangerous, however, not to allow an ample margin
+for catching the trains, for there are only two or three in each
+direction in the autumn and winter, and a gap of about four hours
+generally separates the trains. I had been a long ramble over the moors
+on the north side of Eskdale, and had allowed the sun to set while I was
+still drawing on the top of Danby Beacon. But, having a good map with
+me, I was quite confident of finding the road to Lealholm without
+difficulty, as the distance was only a very few miles.
+
+The crimson globe in the west disappeared behind the dark horizon over
+the two Fryup valleys, and left the world in twilight. But it would not
+be dark for an hour, and except for mistaking the sheep for boulders and
+boulders for sheep, and being consequently surprised when what I had
+imagined was a mass of gray stone suddenly disappeared on my approach,
+nothing unusual happened. I had no fear of losing my way, but what my
+map had led me to believe would be a plain road was a mere track in the
+heather, and at times it became too indistinct to follow easily.
+Lealholm Station lay in the valley on my right, but I could find no road
+leading there, and I wasted precious time in frequent consultations with
+the map. Coming to a farm, I inquired the way, and was directed over a
+number of muddy fields, which gradually brought me down into the valley.
+It was now sufficiently dark for all the landmarks I had noticed to be
+scarcely visible, but, on inquiring at a cottage, I was told that it
+would take only ten minutes to walk to the station. I had a clear
+quarter of an hour, and, hurrying forward, soon found myself on a
+railway-bridge over a deep cutting. There was just enough light to see
+that no station was in sight, and it was impossible to find in which
+direction the station lay. There was no time to go back to the cottage,
+and there were no others to be seen. Looking at the map again, I could
+not discover the position of this bridge, for it was on no road, as it
+seemed merely to connect the pastures on either side. However, I felt
+fairly certain that I had rather overstepped the station, and therefore
+climbed down the bank into the cutting, and commenced walking towards
+the west. Coming out into the open, I thought I saw the lamps on the
+platforms about half a mile further on; but on pressing forward the
+lights became suddenly bigger, and in a minute my train passed me with a
+thundering rush. Evidently Lealholm was to the east, and not the west of
+that cutting. It was then 5.40, and the next train left for Whitby at
+about a quarter to ten. When the tail-lights of the train had
+disappeared into the cutting, I felt very much alone, and the silence of
+the countryside became oppressive. It seemed to me that this part of
+Yorkshire was just as lonely as when Canon Atkinson first commenced his
+work in Danby parish, and I was reminded of his friend's remark on
+hearing that he was going there: 'Why, Danby was not found out when they
+sent Bonaparte to St. Helena, or else they never would have taken the
+trouble to send him all the way there!'
+
+The ruined Danby Castle can still be seen on the slope above the Esk,
+but the ancient Bow Bridge at Castleton, which was built at the end of
+the twelfth century, was barbarously and needlessly destroyed in 1873. A
+picture of the bridge has, fortunately, been preserved in Canon
+Atkinson's 'Forty Years in a Moorland Parish.' That book has been so
+widely read that it seems scarcely necessary to refer to it here, but
+without the help of the Vicar, who knew every inch of his wild parish,
+the Danby district must seem much less interesting.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+GUISBOROUGH AND THE SKELTON VALLEY
+
+
+Although a mere fragment of the Augustinian Priory of Guisborough is
+standing to-day, it is sufficiently imposing to convey a powerful
+impression of the former size and magnificence of the monastic church.
+This fragment is the gracefully buttressed east end of the choir, which
+rises from the level meadow-land to the east of the town. The stonework
+is now of a greenish-gray tone, but in the shadows there is generally a
+look of blue. Beyond the ruin and through the opening of the great east
+window, now bare of tracery, you see the purple moors, with the
+ever-formidable Roseberry Topping holding its head above the green woods
+and pastures.
+
+The destruction of the priory took place most probably during the reign
+of Henry VIII., but there are no recorded facts to give the date of the
+spoiling of the stately buildings. The materials were probably sold to
+the highest bidder, for in the town of Guisborough there are scattered
+many fragments of richly-carved stone, and Ord, one of the historians of
+Cleveland, says: 'I have beheld with sorrow, and shame, and indignation,
+the richly ornamented columns and carved architraves of God's temple
+supporting the thatch of a pig-house.'
+
+The Norman priory church, founded in 1119, by the wealthy Robert de Brus
+of Skelton, was, unfortunately, burnt down on May 16, 1289. Walter of
+Hemingburgh, a canon of Guisborough, has written a quaintly detailed
+account of the origin of the fire. Translated from the monkish Latin, he
+says: 'On the first day of rogation-week, a devouring flame consumed our
+church of Gysburn, with many theological books and nine costly chalices,
+as well as vestments and sumptuous images; and because past events are
+serviceable as a guide to future inquiries, I have thought it desirable,
+in the present little treatise, to give an account of the catastrophe,
+that accidents of a similar nature may be avoided through this calamity
+allotted to us. On the day above mentioned, which was very destructive
+to us, a vile plumber, with his two workmen, burnt our church whilst
+soldering up two holes in the old lead with fresh pewter. For some days
+he had already, with a wicked disposition, commenced, and placed his
+iron crucibles, along with charcoal and fire, on rubbish, or steps of a
+great height, upon dry wood with some turf and other combustibles. About
+noon (in the cross, in the body of the church, where he remained at his
+work until after Mass) he descended before the procession of the
+convent, thinking that the fire had been put out by his workmen. They,
+however, came down quickly after him, without having completely
+extinguished the fire; and the fire among the charcoal revived, and
+partly from the heat of the iron, and partly from the sparks of the
+charcoal, the fire spread itself to the wood and other combustibles
+beneath. After the fire was thus commenced, the lead melted, and the
+joists upon the beams ignited; and then the fire increased prodigiously,
+and consumed everything.' Hemingburgh concludes by saying that all that
+they could get from the culprits was the exclamation, 'Quid potui ego?'
+Shortly after this disaster the Prior and convent wrote to Edward II.,
+excusing themselves from granting a corrody owing to their great losses
+through the burning of the monastery, as well as the destruction of
+their property by the Scots. But Guisborough, next to Fountains, was
+almost the richest establishment in Yorkshire, and thus in a few years'
+time there arose from the Norman foundations a stately church and
+convent built in the Early Decorated style.
+
+Glimpses of the inner life of the priory are given in the Archbishop's
+registers at York, which show how close and searching were the
+visitations by the Archbishop in person or his commissioners, and one of
+the documents throws light on the sad necessity for these inspections.
+It deals with Archbishop Wickwaine's visit in 1280, and we find that the
+canons are censured for many short-comings. They were not to go outside
+the cloister after compline (the last service of the day) on the pretext
+of visiting guests. They were not to keep expensive schools for rich or
+poor, unless with special sanction. They were to turn out of the
+infirmary and punish the persons lying there who were only pretending to
+be ill, and the really sick were to be more kindly treated. There had
+evidently been discrimination in the quality of food served out to
+certain persons in the frater; but this was to be stopped, and food of
+one kind was to be divided equally. A more strict silence was to be kept
+in the cloister, and no one was to refrain from joining in the praises
+of God whilst in the choir. There seems to have been much improper
+conversation among the canons, for they are specially adjured in Christ
+to abstain from repeating immoral stories. Some of the canons who had
+made themselves notorious for quarrelling and caballing were to be
+debarred from promotion, and were commended to the Prior and Subprior
+for punishment.
+
+In 1309 Simon Constable, a refractory canon of Bridlington, was sent to
+Guisborough to undergo a course of penance, change of residence being
+always considered to give an excellent opportunity for thorough reform.
+However, in this case no good seems to have resulted, for about five
+years later he was sent back to Bridlington with a worse character than
+before, and, besides much prayer and humiliation, he was to receive a
+_disciplina_ every Friday at the hands of the Prior. This made no
+improvement in his conduct, for in 1321 his behaviour brought him
+another penance and still greater severity. A few years after this the
+Archbishop seems to have reproached the community for the conduct of
+this unruly brother, which was scarcely fair. The last vision of Simon
+Constable shows him to be as impenitent as ever, and the Archbishop
+makes the awful threat that, if he does not reform at once, he will be
+put in a more confined place than he has ever been in before! Can this
+suggest that the wicked canon was to be bricked up alive?
+
+These internal troubles were not, however, generally known to the
+outside world, but the unfaltering searchlight of the records falls upon
+such great folk as Peter de Mauley, fifth Baron Mulgrave, whose castle
+at Mulgrave, near Whitby, is mentioned elsewhere; Lucy de Thweng, wife
+of Sir William le Latimer; Sir Nicholas de Meynyl; and Katherine, wife
+of Sir John Dentorp, whose conduct merely reflected the morals of
+medieval times. It was, indeed, no uncommon event for the congregation
+to hear some high-born culprit confessing his sins as he walked barefoot
+and scantily clothed in the procession in York Minster. An exceedingly
+beautiful crucifix of copper, richly gilded, was discovered during the
+early part of last century, when some men were digging amongst the
+foundations of an old building in Commondale. There seems little doubt
+that this was a cell or chapel belonging to the monastery, for the
+crucifix bears the date 1119, the year of the founding of Guisborough
+Priory. Another metal crucifix, probably belonging to the thirteenth
+century, was discovered at Ingleby Arncliffe. It was beautifully inlaid
+with brilliant white, green, red, and blue enamels, and the figure of
+Christ was discovered to be hollow, and to contain two ancient
+parchments, written in monkish Latin and scarcely legible. One of them
+was a charm, addressed to 'ye elves, and demons and all kind of
+apparition,' who were called upon in the name of the Trinity, the Virgin
+Mary, the Apostles, Martyrs, Mark, Matthew, Luke, and John, and the
+elect generally, to 'hurt not this servant of God, Adam Osanna, by night
+nor by day, but that, through the very great mercy of God Jesus Christ,
+by the help of Saint Mary, the mother of our Lord Jesus Christ, he may
+rest in peace from all the aforesaid and other evils.'
+
+Another intensely interesting relic of the great priory is the
+altar-tomb, believed to be that of Robert de Brus of Annandale. The
+stone slabs are now built into the walls on each side of the porch of
+Guisborough Church. They may have been removed there from the abbey for
+safety at the time of the dissolution. Hemingburgh, in his chronicle for
+the year 1294, says: 'Robert de Brus the fourth died on the eve of Good
+Friday; who disputed with John de Balliol, before the King of England,
+about the succession to the kingdom of Scotland. And, as he ordered when
+alive, he was buried in the priory of Gysburn with great honour, beside
+his own father.' A great number of other famous people were buried here
+in accordance with their wills. Guisborough has even been claimed as the
+resting-place of Robert Bruce, the champion of Scottish freedom, but
+there is ample evidence for believing that his heart was buried at
+Melrose Abbey and his body in the church of Dunfermline.
+
+The memory of Mr. George Venables--that most excellent man who devoted
+many years to gathering funds for a charity school in the town--is
+preserved on a monument in the church. He had retired from business,
+but, in order to find the means to start the school, he resumed his
+labours in London, and devoted the whole of the profits to this
+useful object.
+
+The central portion of the town of Guisborough, by the market-cross and
+the two chief inns, is quaint and fairly picturesque, but the long
+street as it goes westward deteriorates into rows of new cottages,
+inevitable in a mining country.
+
+Mining operations have been carried on around Guisborough since the time
+of Queen Elizabeth, for the discovery of alum dates from that period,
+and when that industry gradually declined, it was replaced by the
+iron-mines of to-day. Mr. Thomas Chaloner of Guisborough, in his travels
+on the Continent about the end of the sixteenth century, saw the Pope's
+alum-works near Rome, and was determined to start the industry in his
+native parish of Guisborough, feeling certain that alum could be worked
+with profit in his own county. As it was essential to have one or two
+men who were thoroughly versed in the processes of the manufacture, Mr.
+Chaloner induced some of the Pope's workmen by heavy bribes to come to
+England. The risks attending this overt act were terrible, for the
+alum-works brought in a large revenue to His Holiness, and the discovery
+of such a design would have meant capital punishment to the offender.
+The workmen were therefore induced to get into large casks, which were
+secretly conveyed on board a ship that was shortly sailing for England.
+
+When the Pope received the intelligence some time afterwards, he
+thundered forth against Mr. Chaloner and the workmen the most awful and
+comprehensive curse. They were to be cursed most wholly and thoroughly
+in every part of their bodies, every saint was to curse them, and from
+the thresholds of the holy church of God Almighty they were to be
+sequestered, that they might 'be tormented, disposed of, and delivered
+over with Dathan and Abiram, and with those who say unto the Lord God,
+"Depart from us; we desire not to know Thy ways."'
+
+Despite the fearful nature of the curse, the venture prospered so much
+that the Darcy family, about the year 1600, set up another works in the
+neighbourhood of Guisborough; and as this also brought considerable
+wealth to the owners, a third was started at Sandsend in 1615. Many
+others followed, and in 1649 Sir Hugh Cholmley started the works close
+to Saltwick Nab, within a short distance of his house at Whitby. But
+although there must have been more than twenty of these works in
+operation in the eighteenth century, owing to cheaper methods of
+producing alum the industry is now quite extinct in Cleveland.
+
+The broad valley stretching from Guisborough to the sea contains the
+beautifully wooded park of Skelton Castle. The trees in great masses
+cover the gentle slopes on either side of the Skelton Beck, and almost
+hide the modern mansion. The buildings include part of the ancient
+castle of the Bruces, who were Lords of Skelton for many years. It is
+recorded that Peter de Brus, one of the barons who helped to coerce John
+into signing the Great Charter at Runnymede, made a curious stipulation
+when he granted some lands at Leconfield to Henry Percy, his sister's
+husband. The property was to be held on condition that every Christmas
+Day he and his heirs should come to Skelton Castle and lead the lady by
+the arm from her chamber to the chapel.
+
+The old church of Upleatham, standing by the road to Saltburn, is a
+quaint fragment of a Norman building. The tower, bearing the inscription
+'William Crow, Chvrchwarden Bvlded Stepel--1664,' is an addition to what
+is probably only part of the nave of the little Norman building. It is
+now used merely as a cemetery chapel, but it is picturesquely situated,
+and on the north wall the carved Norman corbels may still be seen.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+FROM PICKERING TO RIEVAULX ABBEY
+
+
+The broad Vale of Pickering, watered by the Derwent, the Rye, and their
+many tributaries, is a wonderful contrast to the country we have been
+exploring. The level pastures, where cattle graze and cornfields abound,
+seem to suggest that we are separated from the heather by many leagues;
+but we have only to look beyond the hedgerows to see that the horizon to
+the north is formed by lofty moors only a few miles distant.
+
+Just where the low meadows are beginning to rise steadily from the vale
+stands the town of Pickering, dominated by the lofty stone spire of its
+parish church and by the broken towers of the castle. There is a wide
+street, bordered by dark stone buildings, that leads steeply from the
+river to the church. The houses are as a rule quite featureless, but we
+have learnt to expect this in a county where stone is abundant, for only
+the extremely old and the palpably new buildings stand Christ. Then
+comes Herod's feast, with the King labelled _Herodi_. The guests are
+shown with their arms on the table in the most curious positions, and
+all the royal folk are wearing ermine. The coronation of the Virgin, the
+martyrdom of St. Thomas a Becket, and the martyrdom of St. Edmund, who
+is perforated with arrows, complete the series on the north side. Along
+the south wall the paintings show the story of St. Catherine of
+Alexandria and the seven Corporal Acts of Mercy. Further on come scenes
+from the life of our Lord. There seems little doubt that all the
+paintings, including a number of others in the transepts and elsewhere
+that are now destroyed, were whitewashed over at the time of the
+Reformation, and it was during some restoration work carried out in 1851
+that indications of the paintings were accidentally laid bare. When the
+whole of the walls had been cleaned, careful coloured drawings were
+made, then colour wash was applied again, and the priceless paintings
+disappeared for a generation. The objections to what had been considered
+improper wall decoration for a parish church in the nineteenth century
+having been reasoned away, the pictures once more appeared, but in a
+very different condition to their first resurrection. However, the
+drawings were in existence, so that a careful restoration was possible,
+and as we see them to-day the subdued tones closely follow the
+original colours.
+
+The simple Norman arcade on the north side of the nave has plain round
+columns and semicircular arches, but the south side belongs to later
+Norman times, and has ornate columns and capitals. At least one member
+of the great Bruce family, who had a house at Pickering called Bruce's
+Hall, and whose ascendency at Guisborough has already been mentioned,
+was buried here, for the figure of a knight in chain-mail by the lectern
+probably represents Sir William Bruce. In the chapel there is a
+sumptuous monument bearing the effigies of Sir David and Dame Margery
+Roucliffe. The knight wears the collar of S.S., and his arms are on
+his surcoat.
+
+When John Leland, the 'Royal Antiquary' employed by Henry VIII., came to
+Pickering, he described the castle, which was in a more perfect state
+than it is to-day. He says: 'In the first Court of it be a 4 Toures, of
+the which one is Caullid Rosamunde's Toure.' Also of the inner court he
+writes of '4 Toures, wherof the Kepe is one.' This keep and Rosamund's
+Tower, as well as the ruins of some of the others, are still to be seen
+on the outer walls, so that from some points of view the ruins are
+dignified and picturesque. The area enclosed was large, and in early
+times the castle must have been almost impregnable. But during the Civil
+War it was much damaged by the soldiers quartered there, and Sir Hugh
+Cholmley took lead, wood, and iron from it for the defence of
+Scarborough. The wide view from the castle walls shows better than any
+description the importance of the position it occupied, and we feel, as
+we gaze over the vale or northwards to the moors, that this was the
+dominant power over the whole countryside.
+
+Although Lastingham is not on the road to Helmsley, the few additional
+miles will scarcely be counted when we are on our way to a church which,
+besides being architecturally one of the most interesting in the county,
+is perhaps unique in having at one time had a curate whose wife kept a
+public house adjoining the church. Although this will scarcely be
+believed, we have a detailed account of the matter in a little book
+published in 1806.
+
+The clergyman, whose name was Carter, had to subsist on the slender
+salary of £20 a year and a few surplice fees. This would not have
+allowed any margin for luxuries in the case of a bachelor; but this poor
+man was married, and he had thirteen children. He was a keen fisherman,
+and his angling in the moorland streams produced a plentiful supply of
+fish--in fact, more than his family could consume. But this, even though
+he often exchanged part of his catches with neighbours, was not
+sufficient to keep the wolf from the door, and drastic measures had to
+be taken. The parish was large, and, as many of the people were obliged
+to come 'from ten to fifteen miles' to church, it seemed possible that
+some profit might be made by serving refreshments to the parishioners.
+Mrs. Carter superintended this department, and it seems that the meals
+between the services soon became popular. But the story of 'a
+parson-publican' was soon conveyed to the Archdeacon of the diocese, who
+at the next visitation endeavoured to find out the truth of the matter.
+Mr. Carter explained the circumstances, and showed that, far from being
+a source of disorder, his wife's public-house was an influence for good.
+'I take down my violin,' he continued, 'and play them a few tunes, which
+gives me an opportunity of seeing that they get no more liquor than
+necessary for refreshment; and if the young people propose a dance, I
+seldom answer in the negative; nevertheless, when I announce time for
+return, they are ever ready to obey my commands.' The Archdeacon appears
+to have been a broad-minded man, for he did not reprimand Mr. Carter at
+all; and as there seems to have been no mention of an increased stipend,
+the parson-publican must have continued this strange anomaly.
+
+It is difficult to say whether the public-house was conducted in the
+crypt beneath the church or not. I am inclined to think that Mrs.
+Carter's inn was the present 'Blacksmith's Arms,' but there is distinct
+evidence for stating that cock-fighting used to take place secretly in
+the crypt. The writings of the Venerable Bede give a special interest to
+Lastingham, for he tells us how King Oidilward requested Bishop Cedd to
+build a monastery there. The Saxon buildings that appeared at that time
+have gone, so that the present church cannot be associated with the
+seventh century. No doubt the destruction was the work of the Danes, who
+plundered the whole of this part of Yorkshire. The church that exists
+to-day is of Transitional Norman date, and the beautiful little crypt,
+which has an apse, nave and aisles, is coeval with the superstructure.
+
+The situation of Lastingham in a deep and picturesque valley surrounded
+by moors and overhung by woods is extremely rich.
+
+Further to the west there are a series of beautiful dales, watered by
+becks whose sources are among the Cleveland Hills. On our way to
+Ryedale, the loveliest of these, we pass through Kirby Moorside, a
+little town which has gained a place in history as the scene of the
+death of the notorious George Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham, on
+April 17, 1687. The house in which he died is on the south side of the
+King's Head, and in one of the parish registers there is the entry under
+the date of April 19th, 'Gorges viluas, Lord dooke of Bookingam, etc.'
+Further down the street stands an inn with a curious porch, supported by
+turned wooden pillars, bearing the inscription:
+
+
+  'Anno: Dom 1632 October xi
+   William Wood'
+
+
+Kirkdale, with its world-renowned cave, to which we have already
+referred, lies about two miles to the west. The quaint little Saxon
+church there is one of the few bearing evidences of its own date,
+ascertained by the discovery in 1771 of a Saxon sundial, which had
+survived under a layer of plaster, and was also protected by the porch.
+A translation of the inscription reads: 'Orm, the son of Gamal, bought
+St. Gregory's Minster when it was all broken and fallen, and he caused
+it to be made anew from the ground, for Christ and St. Gregory, in the
+days of King Edward and in the days of Earl Tosti, and Hawarth wrought
+me and Brand the prior (priest or priests).' By this we are plainly told
+that a church was built there in the reign of Edward the Confessor.
+
+A pleasant road leads through Nawton to the beautiful little town of
+Helmsley. A bend of the broad, swift-flowing Rye forms one boundary of
+the place, and is fed by a gushing brook that finds its way from
+Rievaulx Moor, and forms a pretty feature of the main street. The
+cottages in many cases have preserved their thatched roofs, and have
+seldom more than one story; but they invariably appear well preserved
+and carefully painted, although these stone-built houses, with leaded
+casements, give little scope for ornament. But the Helmsley folk have
+realized the importance of white paint, and the window-frames, and even
+the strips of lead that hold the glass together, are picked out in this
+cheerful fashion. In the broad market-square the houses are large, but
+their gray respectability is broken by creepers and some pleasant spots
+of colour. The corner nearest to the church is particularly noticeable
+on account of a most picturesque gabled house, with a timber-framed
+upper floor--a style of construction exceedingly rare in these parts of
+Yorkshire. The old stone cross, raised above its worn steps, stands in
+the open space close to the modern market hall, and humbly allows the
+central position to be occupied by a Gothic cross recently erected to
+the memory of the late Lord Feversham, of Duncombe Park.
+
+A narrow turning by the market-house shows the torn and dishevelled
+fragment of the keep of Helmsley Castle towering above the thatched
+roofs in the foreground. The ruin is surrounded by tall elms, and from
+this point of view, when backed by a cloudy sunset, makes a wonderful
+picture. Like Scarborough, this stronghold was held for the King during
+the Civil War. After the Battle of Marston Moor and the fall of York,
+Fairfax came to Helmsley and invested the castle. He received a wound in
+the shoulder during the siege; but the garrison having surrendered on
+honourable terms, the Parliament ordered that the castle should be
+dismantled, and the thoroughness with which the instructions were
+carried out remind one of Knaresborough, for one side of the keep was
+blown to pieces by a terrific explosion and nearly everything else was
+destroyed.
+
+All the beauty and charm of this lovely district is accentuated in
+Ryedale, and when we have accomplished the three long uphill miles to
+Rievaulx, and come out upon the broad grassy terrace above the abbey,
+we seem to have entered a Land of Beulah. We see a peaceful valley
+overlooked on all sides by lofty hills, whose steep sides are clothed
+with luxuriant woods; we see the Rye flowing past broad green meadows;
+and beneath the tree-covered precipice below our feet appear the
+solemn, roofless remains of one of the first Cistercian monasteries
+established in this country. There is nothing to disturb the peace that
+broods here, for the village consists of a mere handful of old and
+picturesque cottages, and we might stay on the terrace for hours, and,
+beyond the distant shouts of a few children at play and the crowing of
+some cocks, hear nothing but the hum of insects and the singing of
+birds. We take a steep path through the wood which leads us down to the
+abbey ruins.
+
+The magnificent Early English choir and the Norman transepts stand
+astonishingly complete in their splendid decay, and the lower portions
+of the nave, which, until 1922, lay buried beneath masses of
+grass-grown débris, are now exposed to view. The richly-draped
+hill-sides appear as a succession of beautiful pictures framed by the
+columns and arches on each side of the choir. As they stand exposed to
+the weather, the perfectly proportioned mouldings, the clustered
+pillars in a wonderfully good state of preservation, and the almost
+uninjured celestory are more impressive than in an elaborately-restored
+cathedral.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Yorkshire--Coast & Moorland Scenes, by Gordon Home
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10795 ***
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+  <head>
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Yorkshire Coast and Moorland Scenes, by
+      Gordon Home.
+    </title>
+    <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve">
+    
+    body { margin:5%; background:#faebd7; text-align:justify}
+    P { text-indent: 2em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; }
+    H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; }
+    hr  { width: 50%; text-align: center;}
+    .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; }
+    blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;}
+    .mynote    {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;}
+    .toc       { margin-left: 20%; margin-bottom: .75em;}
+    .toc2      { margin-left: 25%;}
+    div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; }
+    pre     { font-family: Times; font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;}
+
+</style>
+  </head>
+  <body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10795 ***</div>
+    <h1>
+      YORKSHIRE COAST<br />AND MOORLAND SCENES
+    </h1>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <h3>
+      Painted and Described By
+    </h3>
+    <h2>
+      GORDON HOME
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <h4>
+      <i>Second Edition</i>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <h3>
+      1907
+    </h3>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <h4>
+      <i>First Edition published April 26, 1904<br /><br /> Second Edition
+      published April, 1907</i>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="003 (69K)" src="images/003.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br /> <br /><br /> <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      PREFACE
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      It may seem almost superfluous to explain that this book does not deal
+      with the whole of Yorkshire, for it would obviously be impossible to get
+      even a passing glimpse of such a great tract of country in a book of this
+      nature. But I have endeavoured to give my own impressions of much of the
+      beautiful coast-line, and also some idea of the character of the moors and
+      dales of the north-east portion of the county.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have described the Dale Country in a companion volume to this, entitled
+      'Yorkshire Dales and Fells.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      GORDON HOME. EPSOM, 1907. <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      Contents
+    </h2>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH3"> CHAPTER I&mdash;&mdash;ACROSS THE MOORS FROM
+      PICKERING TO WHITBY </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH4"> CHAPTER II&mdash;&mdash;ALONG THE ESK VALLEY </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH5"> CHAPTER III&mdash;&mdash;THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO
+      REDCAR </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH6"> CHAPTER IV&mdash;&mdash;THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO
+      SCARBOROUGH </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH7"> CHAPTER V&mdash;&mdash;SCARBOROUGH </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH8"> CHAPTER VI&mdash;&mdash;WHITBY </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#linkch7"> CHAPTER VII&mdash;&mdash;THE CLEVELAND HILLS </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH9"> CHAPTER VIII&mdash;&mdash;GUISBOROUGH AND THE
+      SKELTON VALLEY </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH10"> CHAPTER IX&mdash;&mdash;FROM PICKERING TO RIEVAULX
+      ABBEY </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /> Note: The illustrations from this book were not provided with titles<br />
+      or descriptions. The reader may guess their proper location as well or<br />
+      better than eBook editor who scattered them randomly through the text.<br />
+    </p>
+    <table summary="">
+      <tr>
+        <td>
+          1. On Barnby Moor<br /> 2. Goathland Moor<br /> 3. An Autumn Scene on
+          the Esk<br /> 4. Sleights Moor from Swart Houc Cross<br /> 5. A Stormy
+          Afternoon<br /> 6. East Row, Sandsend<br /> 7. In Mulgrave Woods<br /> 8.
+          Runswick Bay<br /> 9. A Sunny Afternoon at Runswick<br /> 10. Sunrise
+          from Staithes Beck<br /> 11. Three Generations at Staithes<br /> 12.
+          Boulby Cliffs from Staithes Scaur<br /> 13. The Coast at Saltburn<br />
+          14. Whitby Abbey from the Cliffs<br /> 15. Robin Hood's Bay<br /> 16. A
+          Street in Robin Hood's Bay<br /> 17. Scarborough Harbour and Castle<br />
+          18. Sunlight and Shadows in Whitby Harbour<br /> 19. The Red Roofs of
+          Whitby<br /> 20. Evening at Whitby<br /> 21. The Cleveland Hills from
+          above Kildale<br /> 22. Hutton Woods, near Guisborough<br /> 23. A Wide
+          Expanse of Heather seen from Great Ayton Moor<br /> 24. A Golden
+          Afternoon, Danby<br /> 25. A Sunset from Danby Beacon<br /> 26. An
+          Autumn Day at Guisborough<br /> 27. A Yorkshire Postman<br /> 28. The
+          Skelton Valley<br /> 29. In Pickering Church<br /> 30. The Market-place,
+          Helmsley<br /> 31. Rievaulx Abbey from 'The Terrace'<br />
+        </td>
+      </tr>
+    </table>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br /><br /><br /> <a name="link2HCH3" id="link2HCH3">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER I<br />ACROSS THE MOORS FROM PICKERING TO WHITBY
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ancient stone-built town of Pickering is to a great extent the gateway
+      to the moors of Northeastern Yorkshire, for it stands at the foot of that
+      formerly inaccessible gorge known as Newton Dale, and is the meeting-place
+      of the four great roads running north, south, east, and west, as well as
+      of railways going in the same directions. And this view of the little town
+      is by no means original, for the strategic importance of the position was
+      recognised at least as long ago as the days of the early Edwards, when the
+      castle was built to command the approach to Newton Dale and to be a menace
+      to the whole of the Vale of Pickering.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="001 (77K)" src="images/001.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The old-time traveller from York to Whitby saw practically nothing of
+      Newton Dale, for the great coach-road bore him towards the east, and then,
+      on climbing the steep hill up to Lockton Low Moor, he went almost due
+      north as far as Sleights. But to-day everyone passes right through the
+      gloomy canyon, for the railway now follows the windings of Pickering Beck,
+      and nursemaids and children on their way to the seaside may gaze at the
+      frowning cliffs which seventy years ago were only known to travellers and
+      a few shepherds. But although this great change has been brought about by
+      railway enterprise, the gorge is still uninhabited, and has lost little of
+      its grandeur; for when the puny train, with its accompanying white cloud,
+      has disappeared round one of the great bluffs, there is nothing left but
+      the two pairs of shining rails, laid for long distances almost on the
+      floor of the ravine. But though there are steep gradients to be climbed,
+      and the engine labours heavily, there is scarcely sufficient time to get
+      any idea of the astonishing scenery from the windows of the train, and you
+      can see nothing of the huge expanses of moorland stretching away from the
+      precipices on either side. So that we, who would learn something of this
+      region, must make the journey on foot; for a bicycle would be an
+      encumbrance when crossing the heather, and there are many places where a
+      horse would be a source of danger. The sides of the valley are closely
+      wooded for the first seven or eight miles north of Pickering, but the
+      surrounding country gradually loses its cultivation, at first gorse and
+      bracken, and then heather, taking the place of the green pastures.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the village of Newton, perched on high ground far above the dale, we
+      come to the limit of civilization. The sun is nearly setting. The cottages
+      are scattered along the wide roadway and the strip of grass, broken by two
+      large ponds, which just now reflect the pale evening sky. Straight in
+      front, across the green, some ancient barns are thrown up against the
+      golden sunset, and the long perspective of white road, the geese, and some
+      whitewashed gables, stand out from the deepening tones of the grass and
+      trees. A footpath by the inn leads through some dewy meadows to the woods,
+      above Levisham Station in the valley below. At first there are glimpses of
+      the lofty moors on the opposite side of the dale, where the sides of the
+      bluffs are still glowing in the sunset light; but soon the pathway plunges
+      steeply into a close wood, where the foxes are barking, and where the
+      intense darkness is only emphasized by the momentary illumination given by
+      lightning, which now and then flickers in the direction of Lockton Moor.
+      At last the friendly little oil-lamps on the platform at Levisham Station
+      appear just below, and soon the railway is crossed and we are mounting the
+      steep road on the opposite side of the valley. What is left of the waning
+      light shows the rough track over the heather to High Horcum. The huge
+      shoulders of the moors are now majestically indistinct, and towards the
+      west the browns, purples, and greens are all merged in one unfathomable
+      blackness. The tremendous silence and the desolation become almost
+      oppressive, but overhead the familiar arrangement of the constellations
+      gives a sense of companionship not to be slighted. In something less than
+      an hour a light glows in the distance, and, although the darkness is now
+      complete, there is no further need to trouble ourselves with the thought
+      of spending the night on the heather. The point of light develops into a
+      lighted window, and we are soon stamping our feet on the hard, smooth road
+      in front of the Saltersgate Inn. The door opens straight into a large
+      stone-flagged room. Everything is redolent of coaching days, for the
+      cheery glow of the fire shows a spotlessly clean floor, old high-backed
+      settles, a gun hooked to one of the beams overhead, quaint chairs and oak
+      stools, and a fox's mask and brush. A gamekeeper is warming himself at the
+      fire, for the evening is chilly, and the firelight falls on his box-cloth
+      gaiters and heavy boots, as we begin to talk of the loneliness and the
+      dangers of the moors, and of the snowstorms in winter, that almost bury
+      the low cottages and blot out all but the boldest landmarks. Soon we are
+      discussing the superstitions which still survive among the simple
+      country-folk, and the dark and lonely wilds we have just left make this a
+      subject of great fascination.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="004 (78K)" src="images/004.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Although we have heard it before, we hear over again with intense interest
+      the story of the witch who brought constant ill-luck to a family in these
+      parts. Their pigs were never free from some form of illness, their cows
+      died, their horses lamed themselves, and even the milk was so far under
+      the spell that on churning-days the butter refused to come unless helped
+      by a crooked sixpence. One day, when as usual they had been churning in
+      vain, instead of resorting to the sixpence, the farmer secreted himself in
+      an outbuilding, and, gun in hand, watched the garden from a small opening.
+      As it was growing dusk he saw a hare coming cautiously through the hedge.
+      He fired instantly, the hare rolled over, dead, and almost as quickly the
+      butter came. That same night they heard that the old woman, whom they had
+      long suspected of bewitching them, had suddenly died at the same time as
+      the hare, and henceforward the farmer and his family prospered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the light of morning the isolation of the inn is more apparent than at
+      night. A compact group of stable buildings and barns stands on the
+      opposite side of the road, and there are two or three lonely-looking
+      cottages, but everywhere else the world is purple and brown with ling and
+      heather. The morning sun has just climbed high enough to send a flood of
+      light down the steep hill at the back of the barns, and we can hear the
+      hum of the bees in the heather. In the direction of Levisham is Gallows
+      Dyke, the great purple bluff we passed in the darkness, and a few yards
+      off the road makes a sharp double bend to get up Saltersgate Brow, the
+      hill that overlooks the enormous circular bowl of Horcum Hole, where
+      Levisham Beck rises. The farmer whose buildings can be seen down below
+      contrives to paint the bottom of the bowl a bright green, but the ling
+      comes hungrily down on all sides, with evident longings to absorb the
+      scanty cultivation. The Dwarf Cornel, a little mountain-plant which
+      flowers in July, is found in this 'hole.' A few patches have been
+      discovered in the locality, but elsewhere it is not known south of the
+      Cheviots.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="005 (87K)" src="images/005.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Away to the north the road crosses the desolate country like a pale-green
+      ribbon. It passes over Lockton High Moor, climbs to 700 feet at Tom Cross
+      Rigg, and then disappears into the valley of Eller Beck, on Goathland
+      Moor, coming into view again as it climbs steadily up to Sleights Moor,
+      nearly 1,000 feet above the sea. An enormous stretch of moorland spreads
+      itself out towards the west. Near at hand is the precipitous gorge of
+      Upper Newton Dale, backed by Pickering Moor, and beyond are the heights of
+      Northdale Rigg and Rosedale Common, with the blue outlines of Ralph Cross
+      and Danby Head right on the horizon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The smooth, well-built road, with short grass filling the crevices between
+      the stones, urges us to follow its straight course northwards; but the
+      sternest and most remarkable portion of Upper Newton Dale lies to the
+      left, across the deep heather, and we are tempted aside to reach the lip
+      of the sinuous gorge nearly a mile away to the west, where the railway
+      runs along the marshy and boulder-strewn bottom of a natural cutting 500
+      feet deep. The cliffs drop down quite perpendicularly for 200 feet, and
+      the remaining distance to the bed of the stream is a rough slope, quite
+      bare in places, and in others densely grown over with trees; but on every
+      side the fortress-like scarps are as stern and bare as any that face the
+      ocean. Looking north or south the gorge seems completely shut in. There is
+      much the same effect when steaming through the Kyles of Bute, for there
+      the ship seems to be going full speed for the shore of an entirely
+      enclosed sea, and here, saving for the tell-tale railway, there seems no
+      way out of the abyss without scaling the perpendicular walls. The rocks
+      are at their finest at Killingnoble Scar, where they take the form of a
+      semicircle on the west side of the railway. The scar was for a very long
+      period famous for the breed of hawks, which were specially watched by the
+      Goathland men for the use of James I., and the hawks were not displaced
+      from their eyrie even by the incursion of the railway into the glen, and
+      only recently became extinct.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Newton Dale Well, at the foot of the scar, used to attract the country
+      people for miles round, to the fair held there on Midsummer Day, when
+      strange ceremonies were performed in order to insure the beneficent
+      influence of the waters. The custom survived until the beginning of last
+      century, but now it is not easy to even find the position of the well.
+      Very few people living in Whitby or Pickering had any idea of the grandeur
+      of the scenery of Newton Dale when the first official journey was made by
+      railway between the two towns. This was in 1836, but the coaches were
+      drawn by horses on the levels and up the inclines, for it was before the
+      days of the steam-locomotive.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      However, the opening of the line caused great enthusiasm and local
+      excitement, necessitating the services of numbers of policemen to keep the
+      people off the rails. When the separate coaches had been hauled to the
+      highest part of the dale, the horses were detached, and the vehicles were
+      joined up with connecting bars. Then the train was allowed to rush through
+      the pass at what was considered the dangerous speed of twenty miles an
+      hour. For the benefit of those who enjoyed the great pace, the driver
+      allowed the train to go at thirty miles an hour, and then, to show his
+      complete control over the carriages, he applied the brakes and came to a
+      standstill on the steep gradient. But for the existence of the long,
+      narrow ravine right through the heart of these lofty moors, we may
+      reasonably doubt whether Whitby would ever have been joined with York
+      other than by way of the coast-line to Scarborough.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We can cross the line near Eller Beck, and, going over Goathland Moor,
+      explore the wooded sides of Wheeldale Beck and its waterfalls. Mallyan's
+      Spout is the most imposing, having a drop of about 76 feet. The village of
+      Goathland has thrown out skirmishers towards the heather in the form of an
+      ancient-looking but quite modern church, with a low central tower, and a
+      little hotel, stone-built and fitting well into its surroundings. The rest
+      of the village is scattered round a large triangular green, and extends
+      down to the railway, where there is a station named after the village.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The rolling masses of Sleights Moor rise up steeply towards the east, and
+      from the coach-road to Whitby that we deserted at the Saltersgate Inn
+      there is an enormous panorama over Eskdale, Whitby, and the sea.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH4" id="link2HCH4">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER II<br />ALONG THE ESK VALLEY
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To see the valley of the Esk in its richest garb, one must wait for a
+      spell of fine autumn weather, when a prolonged ramble can be made along
+      the riverside and up on the moorland heights above. For the dense
+      woodlands, which are often merely pretty in midsummer, become
+      astonishingly lovely as the foliage draping the steep hillsides takes on
+      its gorgeous colours, and the gills and becks on the moors send down a
+      plentiful supply of water to fill the dales with the music of rushing
+      streams.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="006 (117K)" src="images/006.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Climbing up the road towards Larpool, we take a last look at quaint old
+      Whitby, spread out before us almost like those wonderful old prints of
+      English towns they loved to publish in the eighteenth century. But
+      although every feature is plainly visible&mdash;the church, the abbey, the
+      two piers, the harbour, the old town and the new&mdash;the detail is all
+      lost in that soft mellowness of a sunny autumn day. We find an
+      enthusiastic photographer expending plates on this familiar view, which is
+      sold all over the town; but we do not dare to suggest that the prints,
+      however successful, will be painfully hackneyed, and we go on rejoicing
+      that the questions of stops and exposures need not trouble us, for the
+      world is ablaze with colour.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Beyond the great red viaduct, whose central piers are washed by the river
+      far below, the road plunges into the golden shade of the woods near Cock
+      Mill, and then comes out by the river's bank down below, with the little
+      village of Ruswarp on the opposite shore. The railway goes over the Esk
+      just below the dam, and does its very best to spoil every view of the
+      great mill built in 1752 by Mr. Nathaniel Cholmley. However, from the road
+      towards Sleights the huge building looks picturesque enough, with the
+      river flowing smoothly over the broad dam fringed by the delicate faded
+      greens and browns of the trees. The mill, with its massive roof and
+      projecting eaves, suggests in a most remarkable fashion one of the huge
+      gate-houses of the Chinese Imperial Palace at Peking.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The road follows close beside the winding river, and all the way to
+      Sleights there are lovely glimpses of the shimmering waters, reflecting
+      the overhanging masses of foliage. The golden yellow of a bush growing at
+      the water's edge will be backed by masses of brown woods that here and
+      there have retained suggestions of green, contrasted with the deep purple
+      tones of their shadowy recesses. These lovely phases of Eskdale scenery
+      are denied to the summer visitor, but there are few who would wish to have
+      the riverside solitudes rudely broken into by the passing of boatloads of
+      holiday-makers. Just before reaching Sleights Bridge we leave the
+      tree-embowered road, and, going through a gate, find a stone-flagged
+      pathway that climbs up the side of the valley with great deliberation, so
+      that we are soon at a great height, with a magnificent sweep of landscape
+      towards the south-west, and the keen air blowing freshly from the great
+      table-land of Egton High Moor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="007 (116K)" src="images/007.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little higher, and we are on the road in Aislaby village. The steep
+      climb from the river and railway has kept off those modern influences
+      which have made Sleights and Grosmont architecturally depressing, and thus
+      we find a simple village on the edge of the heather, with picturesque
+      stone cottages and pretty gardens, free from companionship with the
+      painfully ugly modern stone house, with its thin slate roof. The big house
+      of the village stands on the very edge of the descent, surrounded by high
+      trees now swept bare of leaves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The first time I visited Aislaby I reached the little hamlet when it was
+      nearly dark. Sufficient light, however, remained in the west to show up
+      the large house standing in the midst of the swaying branches. One dim
+      light appeared in the blue-gray mass, and the dead leaves were blown
+      fiercely by the strong gusts of wind. On the other side of the road stood
+      an old gray house, whose appearance that gloomy evening well supported the
+      statement that it was haunted. The classic front appeared behind an
+      imposing gateway approached by a curious flat bridge across a circular
+      pond which had a solid stone edging. The low parapets of the bridge were
+      cut into a strange serpentine form. I gazed at the front of the house,
+      backed by the dim outline of the moor beyond; but, though the place was
+      silent enough, I could hear no strange sounds, and the windows remained
+      black and impassive.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I left the village in the gathering gloom and was soon out on the heather.
+      Away on the left, but scarcely discernible, was Swart Houe Cross, on Egton
+      Low Moor, and straight in front lay the Skelder Inn. A light gleamed from
+      one of the lower windows, and by it I guided my steps, being determined to
+      partake of tea before turning my steps homeward. I stepped into the little
+      parlour, with its sanded floor, and demanded 'fat rascals' and tea. The
+      girl was not surprised at my request, for the hot turf cakes supplied at
+      the inn are known to all the neighbourhood by this unusual name, although
+      they are not particularly fat, and are so extremely palatable that one
+      would gladly call them by a friendlier name.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="008 (112K)" src="images/008.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But though the gloom of an autumn evening emphasizes the loneliness of the
+      inn, it blots out the beautiful views which extend in every direction over
+      dales and woodland, as well as the sea and moors. Whitby shows itself
+      beyond the windmill as a big town dominated by a great rectangular
+      building looking as much like a castle as an hotel, the abbey being less
+      conspicuous from here than from most points of view. Northwards are the
+      dense woods at Mulgrave, the coast as far as Kettleness, and the wide,
+      almost limitless moors in the direction of Guisborough. The road to that
+      ancient town goes straight up the hill past Swart Houe Cross, which forms
+      the horizon in the picture reproduced as the frontispiece of this volume.
+      Up on that high ground you can see right across the valley of the Esk in
+      both directions. The course of the river itself is hidden by the shoulders
+      of Egton Low Moor beneath us, but faint sounds of the shunting of trucks
+      are carried up to the heights. Even when the deep valleys are warmest, and
+      when their atmosphere is most suggestive of a hot-house, these moorland
+      heights rejoice in a keen, dry air, which seems to drive away the
+      slightest sense of fatigue, so easily felt on the lower levels, and to
+      give in its place a vigour that laughs at distance. Up here, too, the
+      whole world seems left to Nature, the levels of cultivation being almost
+      out of sight, and anything under 800 feet seems low. Towards the end of
+      August the heights are capped with purple, although the distant moors,
+      however brilliant they may appear when close at hand, generally assume
+      more delicate shades, fading into grays and blues on the horizon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But however much the moors may attract us, we started out with the
+      intention of seeing something of Eskdale. We will therefore take a turning
+      out of the Guisborough road, and go down the hill to Egton village, where
+      there is a church with some Norman pillars and arches preserved from the
+      rebuilding craze that despoiled Yorkshire of half its ecclesiastical
+      antiquities. Making our way along the riverside to Grosmont, we come to
+      the enormous heaps above the pits of the now disused iron-mines. This was
+      the birthplace of the Cleveland Ironworks, and Grosmont was at one time
+      more famous than Middlesbrough. The first cargo of ironstone was sent from
+      here in 1836, when the Pickering and Whitby Railway was opened. However
+      interesting Grosmont may sound in books, it is a dull place; for the
+      knowledge that the name was originally Grandimont, from the small priory
+      founded about 1200, and named after the abbey in Normandy to which it was
+      attached, does not excite much interest when there is nothing to see but a
+      farmhouse on the site, and the modern place consists of a
+      railway-junction, some deserted mines, and many examples of the modern
+      Yorkshire house.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Everything that Nature can do to make amends for this uninteresting spot
+      is lavishly squandered upon the valley, for wherever man has left things
+      alone there are heavy canopies of foliage, and mossy boulders among the
+      rushing streams; and if you will but take the trouble to climb up to the
+      heather, even the mines are dwarfed into insignificance. We will go up the
+      steep road to the top of Sleights Moor. It is a long stiff climb of nearly
+      900 feet, but the view is one of the very finest in this country, where
+      wide expanses soon become commonplace. We are sufficiently high to look
+      right across Fylingdales Moor to the sea beyond, a soft haze of pearly
+      blue over the hard, rugged outline of the ling. Away towards the north,
+      too, the landscape for many miles is limited only by the same horizon of
+      sea, so that we seem to be looking at a section of a very large scale
+      contour map of England. Below us on the western side runs the Mirk Esk,
+      draining the heights upon which we stand as well as Egton High Moor and
+      Wheeldale Moor. The confluence with the Esk at Grosmont is lost in a haze
+      of smoke and a confusion of roofs and railway-lines; and the course of the
+      larger river in the direction of Glaisdale is also hidden behind the steep
+      slopes of Egton High Moor. Towards the south we gaze over a vast
+      desolation, crossed by the coach-road to York as it rises and falls over
+      the swells of the heather. The queer isolated cone of Blakey Topping and
+      the summit of Gallows Dyke, close to Saltersgate, appear above the distant
+      ridges.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="009 (107K)" src="images/009.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The route of the great Roman road from the South to Dunsley Bay can also
+      be seen from these heights. It passes straight through Cawthorn Camp, on
+      the ridge to the west of the village of Newton, and then runs along within
+      a few yards of the by-road from Picketing to Egton. It crosses Wheeldale
+      Beck, and skirts the ancient dyke round July or Julian Park, at one time a
+      hunting-seat of the great De Mauley family. The road is about 12 feet
+      wide, and is now deep in heather; but it is slightly raised above the
+      general level of the ground, and can therefore be followed fairly easily
+      where it has not been taken up to build walls for enclosures. Of greater
+      antiquity, but much more easily discovered, are the bride stones close at
+      hand on Sleights Moor. Several of the stones have fallen, but three of
+      them are still standing erect, the tallest being 7 feet high. It is not
+      easy to discover any particular form from the standing and recumbent
+      stones, for they neither make a circle nor do they seem to be directed to
+      any particular point of the compass; but it is quite possible that these
+      monoliths were put up by Early Man as a means of recording the seasons, in
+      somewhat the same manner as Stonehenge is an example of the orientated
+      temple of Neolithic times.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If we go down into the valley beneath us by a road bearing south-west, we
+      shall find ourselves at Beck Hole, where there is a pretty group of stone
+      cottages, backed by some tall firs. The Eller Beck is crossed by a stone
+      bridge close to its confluence with the Mirk Esk. Above the bridge, a
+      footpath among the huge boulders winds its way by the side of the rushing
+      beck to Thomasin Foss, where the little river falls in two or three broad
+      silver bands into a considerable pool. Great masses of overhanging rock,
+      shaded by a leafy roof, shut in the brimming waters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is not difficult to find the way from Beck Hole to the Roman camp on
+      the hillside towards Egton Bridge. The Roman road from Cawthorn goes right
+      through it, but beyond this it is not easy to trace, although fragments
+      have been discovered as far as Aislaby, all pointing to Dunsley or
+      Sandsend Bay. Round the shoulder of the hill we come down again to the
+      deeply-wooded valley of the Esk. No river can be seen, but when we enter
+      the shade of the trees the sound of many waters fills the air. What was
+      once a thick green roof is now thin and yellow, and under our feet is a
+      yielding carpet of soft brown and orange leaves. Rare and luxuriant mosses
+      grow at the foot of the trees, on dead wood, and on the damp stones, and
+      everywhere the rich woodland scent of decay meets the nostrils. In the
+      midst of all these evidences of rampant natural conditions we come to
+      Glaisdale End, where a graceful stone bridge of a single arch stands over
+      the rushing stream. The initials of the builder and the date appear on the
+      eastern side of what is now known as the Beggar's Bridge. It was formerly
+      called Firris Bridge, after the builder, but the popular interest in the
+      story of its origin seems to have killed the old name. If you ask anyone
+      in Whitby to mention some of the sights of the neighbourhood, he will
+      probably head his list with the Beggar's Bridge, but why this is so I
+      cannot imagine. The woods are very beautiful, but this is a country full
+      of the loveliest dales, and the presence of this single-arched bridge does
+      not seem sufficient to have attracted so much popularity. I can only
+      attribute it to the love interest associated with the beggar. He was, we
+      may imagine, the Alderman Thomas Firris who, as a penniless youth, came to
+      bid farewell to his betrothed, who lived somewhere on the opposite side of
+      the river. Finding the stream impassable, he is said to have determined
+      that if he came back from his travels as a rich man he would put up a
+      bridge on the spot he had been prevented from crossing. It is not a very
+      remarkable story, even if it be true, but it has given the bridge a fame
+      scarcely proportionate to its merits.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH5" id="link2HCH5">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER III<br />THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO REDCAR
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Along the three miles of sand running northwards from Whitby at the foot
+      of low alluvial cliffs, I have seen some of the finest sea-pictures on
+      this part of the coast. But although I have seen beautiful effects at all
+      times of the day, those that I remember more than any others are the early
+      mornings, when the sun was still low in the heavens, when, standing on
+      that fine stretch of yellow sand, one seemed to breathe an atmosphere so
+      pure, and to gaze at a sky so transparent, that some of those undefined
+      longings for surroundings that have never been realized were instinctively
+      uppermost in the mind. It is, I imagine, that vague recognition of
+      perfection which has its effect on even superficial minds when impressed
+      with beautiful scenery, for to what other cause can be attributed the
+      remark one hears, that such scenes 'make one feel good'?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Heavy waves, overlapping one another in their fruitless bombardment of the
+      smooth shelving sand, are filling the air with a ceaseless thunder. The
+      sun, shining from a sky of burnished gold, throws into silhouette the twin
+      lighthouses at the entrance to Whitby Harbour, and turns the foaming
+      wave-tops into a dazzling white, accentuated by the long shadows of early
+      day. Away to the north-west is Sandsend Ness, a bold headland full of
+      purple and blue shadows, and straight out to sea, across the white-capped
+      waves, are two tramp steamers, making, no doubt, for South Shields or some
+      port where a cargo of coal can be picked up. They are plunging heavily,
+      and every moment their bows seem to go down too far to recover.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On mornings when the sea is quieter there are few who can resist the
+      desire to plunge into the blue waters, for at seven o'clock the shore is
+      so entirely deserted that one seems to be bathing from some primeval shore
+      where no other forms of life may be expected than some giant crustaceans.
+      This thought, perhaps, prompted the painful sensations I allowed to prey
+      upon me one night when I was walking along this particular piece of shore
+      from Whitby. I had decided to save time over the road to Sandsend by
+      getting on to the beach at Upgang, where the lifeboat-house stands, by the
+      entrance to a small beck. So dark was the night that I could scarcely be
+      sure that I had not lost my way, until I had carefully felt the walls of
+      the boat-house. Then I stepped cautiously on to the sand, which I
+      discovered as soon as my feet began sinking at every step.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="010 (83K)" src="images/010.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The harbour lights of Whitby were bright enough, but in the other
+      direction I could be sure of nothing. At first I seemed to have made a
+      mistake as to the state of the tide, for there appeared to be a whiteness
+      nearly up to the base of the cliffs; but this proved to be the suffused
+      glow from the lighthouses. Rain had been falling heavily for the last few
+      days, and had produced so many wide streams across the sand that my
+      knowledge of the usual ones merely hampered me. At first I began stepping
+      carefully over large black hollows in the sand, and then a great black
+      mark would show itself, which, offering no resistance to my stick as I
+      drew it across its surface, I could only imagine to be caused by a flood
+      of ink poured upon the beach by some horrible squid. My musings on whether
+      sea-monsters did ever disport themselves on the shore under the cover of
+      sufficiently dark nights would be broken into by discovering that I had
+      plunged into a stream of undiscoverable dimensions, whose existence only
+      revealed itself by the splash of my boots. Retreating cautiously, I would
+      take a run, and then a terrific leap into the darkness, sometimes finding
+      myself on firm dry sand, and as frequently in the water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I had decided that I should probably not reach Sandsend until daylight,
+      when a red lamp near the railway-bridge shone out as a beacon, and I
+      realized that I would soon be safe from the tentacles of sea-monsters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When I awoke next morning, I dashed out on to the beach, and commenced to
+      walk rapidly in the direction of Whitby, in the hope that the tide had
+      left some of those black stains still showing. I wanted, also, to examine
+      some of the queer ridges I had so often stepped over, and some of the
+      rivers I had leapt. The rivers were there wide enough in places, but
+      nothing in the way of a ridge or any signs of those inky patches could I
+      discern. Careful examination showed, however, that here and there the
+      smooth shore was covered with sand of a rather reddish hue, quite unworthy
+      of remark in daylight. The foolishness of my apprehensions seems apparent,
+      but nevertheless I urge everyone to choose a moonlit night and a companion
+      of some sort for traversing these three miles after sunset.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The two little becks finding their outlet at East Row and Sandsend are
+      lovely to-day; but their beauty must have been much more apparent before
+      the North-Eastern Railway put their black lattice girder bridges across
+      the mouth of each valley. But now that familiarity with these bridges,
+      which are of the same pattern across every wooded ravine up the coast-line
+      to Redcar, has blunted my impressions, I can think of the picturesqueness
+      of East Row without remembering the railway. It was in this glen, where
+      Lord Normanby's lovely woods make a background for the pretty tiled
+      cottages, the mill, and the old stone bridge, which make up East Row, that
+      the Saxons chose a home for their god Thor. [Since this was written one or
+      two new houses have been allowed to mar the simplicity of the valley.&mdash;G.
+      H.] Here they built some rude form of temple, afterwards, it seems,
+      converted into a hermitage. This was how the spot obtained the name
+      Thordisa, a name it retained down to 1620, when the requirements of
+      workmen from the newly-started alum-works at Sandsend led to building
+      operations by the side of the stream. The cottages which arose became
+      known afterwards as East Row.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A very little way inland is the village of Dunsley, which may have been in
+      existence in Roman times, for Ptolemy mentions Dunus Sinus as a bay
+      frequently used by the Romans as a landing-place. The foundations of some
+      ancient building can easily be traced in the rough grass at the village
+      cross-roads, now overlooked by a new stone house. But whatever surprises
+      Dunsley may have in store for those who choose to dig in the likely
+      places, the hamlet need not keep one long, for on either hand there is a
+      choice of breezy moorland or the astonishing beauties of Mulgrave Woods.
+      Before I knew this part of Yorkshire, and had merely read of the woods as
+      a sight to be visited from Whitby, I was prepared for something at least
+      as hackneyed as Hayburn Wyke. I was prepared for direction-boards and
+      artificial helps to the charms of certain aspects of the streams. I
+      certainly never anticipated that I should one day sigh for a
+      direction-board in this forest.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="011 (63K)" src="images/011.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was on my second visit to the woods that I determined to find a
+      particularly dramatic portion of one of the streams. My first ramble had
+      been in summer. I had been with one who knew the paths well, but now it
+      was late autumn and I was alone. I explored the paths for hours, and
+      traversed long glades ablaze with red and gold. I peered down through the
+      yellow leaves to the rushing streams below, where I could see the great
+      moss-grown boulders choking the narrow channels. But this particular spot
+      had gone. I was almost in despair, when two labourers by great luck
+      happened to come along one of the tracks. With their help I found the
+      place I was searching for, and the result of the time spent there is given
+      in one of the illustrations to this chapter. Go where you will in
+      Yorkshire, you will find no more fascinating woodland scenery than this.
+      From the broken walls and towers of the old Norman castle the views over
+      the ravines on either hand&mdash;for the castle stands on a lofty
+      promontory in a sea of foliage&mdash;are entrancing; and after seeing the
+      astoundingly brilliant colours with which autumn paints these trees, there
+      is a tendency to find the ordinary woodland commonplace. The narrowest and
+      deepest gorge is hundreds of feet deep in the shale. East Row Beck drops
+      into this canyon in the form of a waterfall at the upper end, and then
+      almost disappears among the enormous rocks strewn along its circumscribed
+      course. The humid, hothouse atmosphere down here encourages the growth of
+      many of the rarer mosses, which entirely cover all but the newly-fallen
+      rocks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We can leave the woods by a path leading near Lord Normanby's modern
+      castle, and come out on to the road close to Lythe Church, where a great
+      view of sea and land is spread out towards the south. The long curving
+      line of white marks the limits of the tide as far as the entrance to
+      Whitby Harbour. The abbey stands out in its loneliness as of yore, and
+      beyond it are the black-looking, precipitous cliffs ending at Saltwick
+      Nab. Lythe Church, standing in its wind-swept graveyard full of blackened
+      tombstones, need not keep us, for, although its much-modernized exterior
+      is simple and ancient-looking, the interior is devoid of any interest. It
+      is the same tale at nearly every village in this district, and to those
+      who are able to grow enthusiastic in antiquarian matters some parts of the
+      county are disappointing. In East Anglia and the southern counties even
+      the smallest hamlets have often a good church, with a conspicuous tower or
+      spire; but in how many villages in this riding do you find no church at
+      all, as in the case of Staithes and Runswick? Many of the old churches of
+      Yorkshire were in a state of great dilapidation at the beginning of last
+      century, and a great effort having been initiated by the then Archbishop,
+      a fund was instituted to help the various parishes to restore their
+      buildings. It was a period when architecture was at a low ebb, and the
+      desire to sweep away antiquity was certainly strong, for those churches
+      not rebuilt from the ground were so hacked and renovated that their
+      interest and picturesqueness has vanished. The churches at Pickering,
+      Middleton, Lastingham, and Kirkdale must, however, be pointed out as
+      priceless exceptions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The road drops down a tremendous hill into Sandsend, where they talk of
+      going 'up t' bonk' to Lythe Church. A little chapel of ease in the village
+      accommodates the old and delicate folk, but the youth and the generally
+      able-bodied of Sandsend must climb the hill every Sunday. The beck forms
+      an island in the village, and the old stone cottages, bright with new
+      paint and neatly-trained creepers, stand in their gardens on either side
+      of the valley in the most picturesque fashion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The walk along the rocky shore to Kettleness is dangerous unless the tide
+      is carefully watched, and the road inland through Lythe village is not
+      particularly interesting, so that one is tempted to use the railway, which
+      cuts right through the intervening high ground by means of two tunnels.
+      The first one is a mile long, and somewhere near the centre has a passage
+      out to the cliffs, so that even if both ends of the tunnel collapsed there
+      would be a way of escape. But this is small comfort when travelling from
+      Kettleness, for the down gradient towards Sandsend is very steep, and in
+      the darkness of the tunnel the train gets up a tremendous speed, bursting
+      into the open just where a precipitous drop into the sea could be most
+      easily accomplished.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The station at Kettleness is on the top of the huge cliffs, and to reach
+      the shore one must climb down a zigzag path. It is a broad and solid
+      pathway until halfway down, where it assumes the character of a
+      goat-track, being a mere treading down of the loose shale of which the
+      enormous cliff is formed. The sliding down of the crumbling rock
+      constantly carries away the path, but a little spade-work soon makes the
+      track firm again. This portion of the cliff has something of a history,
+      for one night in 1829 the inhabitants of many of the cottages originally
+      forming the village of Kettleness were warned of impending danger by
+      subterranean noises. Fearing a subsidence of the cliff, they betook
+      themselves to a small schooner lying in the bay. This wise move had not
+      long been accomplished, when a huge section of the ground occupied by the
+      cottages slid down the great cliff and the next morning there was little
+      to be seen but a sloping mound of lias shale at the foot of the precipice.
+      The villagers recovered some of their property by digging, and some pieces
+      of broken crockery from one of the cottages are still to be seen on the
+      shore near the ferryman's hut, where the path joins the shore.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This sandy beach, lapped by the blue waves of Runswick Bay, is one of the
+      finest spots on the rocky coast-line of Yorkshire. A trickling waterfall
+      drops perpendicularly down the blackish rocks from a considerable height,
+      while above it are the towering cliffs of shale, perfectly bare in one
+      direction, and clothed with grass and bracken in another. At the foot of
+      the rocks a layer of jet appears a few inches above the sand.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="012 (79K)" src="images/012.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      You look northwards across the sunlit sea to the rocky heights hiding Port
+      Mulgrave and Staithes, and on the further side of the bay you see tiny
+      Runswick's red roofs, one above the other, on the face of the cliff. Here
+      it is always cool and pleasant in the hottest weather, and from the broad
+      shadows cast by the precipices above one can revel in the sunny land and
+      sea-scapes without that fishy odour so unavoidable in the villages. When
+      the sun is beginning to climb down the sky in the direction of Hinderwell,
+      and everything is bathed in a glorious golden light, the ferryman will row
+      you across the bay to Runswick, but a scramble over the rocks on the beach
+      will be repaid by a closer view of the now half-filled-up Hob Hole. The
+      fisher-folk believed this cave to be the home of a kindly-disposed fairy
+      or hob, who seems to have been one of the slow-dying inhabitants of the
+      world of mythology implicitly believed in by the Saxons. And these beliefs
+      died so hard in these lonely Yorkshire villages that until recent times a
+      mother would carry her child suffering from whooping-cough along the beach
+      to the mouth of the cave. There she would call in a loud voice, 'Hob-hole
+      Hob! my bairn's gotten t'kink cough. Tak't off, tak't off.' One can see
+      the child's parents gazing fearfully into the black depths of the cavern,
+      penetrating the cliff for 70 feet, and finally turning back to the village
+      in the full belief that the hob would stay the disease.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The steep paths and flights of roughly-built steps that wind above and
+      below the cottages are the only means of getting about in Runswick. The
+      butcher's cart every Saturday penetrates into the centre of the village by
+      the rough track which is all that is left of the good firm road from
+      Hinderwell after it has climbed down the cliff. To this central position,
+      close to the post-box, the householders come to buy their supply of meat
+      for Sunday, having their purchases weighed on scales placed on the flap at
+      the back of the cart. While the butcher is doing his thriving trade the
+      postman arrives to collect letters from the pillar-box, Placing a small
+      horn to his lips, he blows a blast to warn the villagers that the post is
+      going, and, having waited for the last letter, climbs slowly up the steep
+      pathway to Hinderwell.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Halfway up to the top he pauses and looks over the fruit-trees and the
+      tiles and chimney-pots below him, to the bright blue waters of the bay,
+      with Kettleness beyond, now all pink and red in the golden light of late
+      afternoon. This scene is more suggestive of the Mediterranean than
+      Yorkshire, for the blueness of the sea seems almost unnatural, and the
+      golden greens of the pretty little gardens among the houses seem perhaps a
+      trifle theatrical; but the fisher-folk play their parts too well, and
+      there is nothing make-believe about the delicious bread-and-butter and the
+      newly-baked cakes which accompany the tea awaiting us in a spotlessly
+      clean cottage close by.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The same form of disaster which destroyed Kettleness village caused the
+      complete ruin of Runswick in 1666, for one night, when some of the
+      fisher-folk were holding a wake over a corpse, they had unmistakable
+      warnings of an approaching landslip. The alarm was given, and the
+      villagers, hurriedly leaving their cottages, saw the whole place slide
+      downwards and become a mass of ruins. No lives were lost, but, as only one
+      house remained standing, the poor fishermen were only saved from
+      destitution by the sums of money collected for their relief.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Architecturally speaking, Hinderwell is a depressing village, and there is
+      little to remember about the place except an extraordinary block of two or
+      three shops, suitable only for a business street in a big city, but dumped
+      right into the middle of this village of low cottages. The church is
+      modern enough to be uninteresting, but in the graveyard St. Hilda's Well,
+      from which the name Hinderwell is a corruption, may still be seen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In 1603 there was a sudden and terrible outbreak of plague in the village.
+      It only lasted from September 1 to November 10, but in that short time
+      forty-nine people died. It seems that the infection was brought by some
+      men from a 'Turkey ship' that had been stranded on the coast, but,
+      strangely enough, the disease does not appear to have been carried into
+      the other villages in the neighbourhood.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Scarcely two miles from Hinderwell is the fishing-hamlet of Staithes,
+      wedged into the side of a deep and exceedingly picturesque beck. Here&mdash;and
+      it is the same at Runswick&mdash;one is obliged to walk warily during the
+      painter's season, for fear of either obstructing the view of the man
+      behind the easel you have just passed, or out of regard for the feelings
+      of some girls just in front. There are often no more chances of standing
+      still in Staithes than may be enjoyed on a popular golf-links on a fine
+      Saturday afternoon. These folk at Staithes do not disturb one with cries
+      of 'Fore!' but with that blank Chinaman's stare which comes to anyone who
+      paints in public.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The average artist is a being who is quite unable to recognise
+      architectural merit. He sees everything to please him if the background of
+      his group be sufficiently tumble-down and derelict. If this be incorrect,
+      how could such swarms of artistic folk paint and actually lodge in
+      Staithes? The steep road leading past the station drops down into the
+      village, giving a glimpse of the beck crossed by its ramshackle wooden
+      foot-bridge&mdash;the view one has been prepared for by guide-books and
+      picture postcards. Lower down you enter the village street. Here the smell
+      of fish comes out to greet you, and one would forgive the place this
+      overflowing welcome if one were not so shocked at the dismal aspect of the
+      houses on either side of the way. Many are of comparatively recent origin,
+      others are quite new, and a few&mdash;a very few&mdash;are old; but none
+      have any architectural pretensions or any claims to picturesqueness, and
+      only a few have the neat and respectable look one is accustomed to expect
+      after seeing Robin Hood's Bay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Staithes had filled me with so much pleasant expectancy that my first walk
+      down this street of dirty, ugly houses had brought me into a querulous
+      frame of mind, and I wondered irritably why the women should all wear
+      lilac-coloured bonnets, when a choice of colour is not difficult as far as
+      calico is concerned. Those women who were in mourning had dyed theirs
+      black, and these assorted well with the colour of the stone of many of the
+      houses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I hurried down on to the little fish-wharf&mdash;a wooden structure facing
+      the sea&mdash;hoping to find something more cheering in the view of the
+      little bay, with its bold cliffs, and the busy scene where the cobles were
+      drawn up on the shingle. Here my spirits revived, and I began to find
+      excuses for the painters. The little wharf, in a bad state of repair, like
+      most things in the place, was occupied by groups of stalwart fisher-folk,
+      men and women.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The men were for the most part watching their women-folk at work. They
+      were also to an astonishing extent mere spectators in the arduous work of
+      hauling the cobles one by one on to the steep bank of shingle. A tackle
+      hooked to one of the baulks of timber forming the staith was being hauled
+      at by five women and two men! Two others were in a listless fashion
+      leaning their shoulders against the boat itself. With the last 'Heave-ho!'
+      at the shortened tackle the women laid hold of the nets, and with casual
+      male assistance laid them out on the shingle, removed any fragments of
+      fish, and generally prepared them for stowing in the boat again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="013 (97K)" src="images/013.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is evidently an accepted state of things at Staithes that the work of
+      putting out to sea and the actual catching of the fish is sufficient for
+      the men-folk, for the feminine population do their arduous tasks with a
+      methodical matter-of-factness which surprises only the stranger. I was
+      particularly struck on one occasion with the sight of a good-looking and
+      very neatly dressed young fishwife who was engaged in that very necessary
+      but exceedingly unpleasant task of cutting open fish and removing the
+      perishable portions. With unerring precision the sharp knife was plunged
+      into each cod or haddock, and the fish was in its marketable condition in
+      shorter time than one can write. A little boy plunged them into a pail of
+      ruddy-looking water, and from thence into the regulation fish box or
+      basket that finds its way to the Metropolis.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A change has come over the inhabitants of Staithes since 1846, when Mr.
+      Ord describes the fishermen as 'exceedingly civil and courteous to
+      strangers, and altogether free from that low, grasping knavery peculiar to
+      the larger class of fishing-towns.' Without wishing to be unreasonably
+      hard on Staithes, I am inclined to believe that this character is
+      infinitely better than these folk deserve, and even when Mr. Ord wrote of
+      the place I have reason to doubt the civility shown by them to strangers.
+      It is, according to some who have known Staithes for a long while, less
+      than fifty years ago that the fisher-folk were hostile to a stranger on
+      very small provocation, and only the entirely inoffensive could expect to
+      sojourn in the village without being a target for stones. The incursion of
+      the artistic hordes has been a great factor in the demoralization of the
+      village, for who would not be mercenary when besought at all hours of the
+      day to stand before a canvas or a camera? Thus, the harmless stranger who
+      strays on to the staith with a camera is obliged to pay for 'an
+      afternoon's 'baccy' if he want an opportunity to obtain more than a
+      snapshot of a picturesque group. He may try to capture a lonely old
+      fisherman by asking if he would mind standing still for 'just one second,'
+      but the old fellow will move away instantly unless his demand for payment
+      be readily complied with.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      No doubt many of the superstitions of Staithes people have languished or
+      died out in recent years, and among these may be included a particularly
+      primitive custom when the catches of fish had been unusually small. Bad
+      luck of this sort could only be the work of some evil influence, and to
+      break the spell a sheep's heart had to be procured, into which many pins
+      were stuck. The heart was then burnt in a bonfire on the beach, in the
+      presence of the fishermen, who danced round the flames.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In happy contrast to these heathenish practices was the resolution entered
+      into and signed by the fishermen of Staithes, in August, 1835, binding
+      themselves 'on no account whatever' to follow their calling on Sundays,
+      'nor to go out with our boats or cobbles to sea, either on the Saturday or
+      Sunday evenings.' They also agreed to forfeit ten shillings for every
+      offence against the resolution, and the fund accumulated in this way, and
+      by other means, was administered for the benefit of aged couples and
+      widows and orphans.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The men of Staithes are known up and down the east coast of Great Britain
+      as some of the very finest types of fishermen. Their cobles, which vary in
+      size and colour, are uniform in design and the brilliance of their paint.
+      Brick red, emerald green, pungent blue and white, are the most favoured
+      colours, but orange, pink, yellow, and many others, are to be seen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Not only are fish of the present age in evidence at Staithes, but nowhere
+      along this coast can one find better examples of those of the Jurassic
+      period. When the tide has exposed the scaur which runs out from Colburn
+      Nab, at the mouth of the beck, a one can examine masses of recently fallen
+      rocks, the new faces of which are almost invariably covered with ammonites
+      or clusters of fossil bivalves. The only hindrance to a close examination
+      of these new falls from the cliffs is the serious danger of another fall
+      occurring at the same spot. The fisher-folk are very kind in pointing out
+      this peril to ardent geologists and those of a less scientific outlook,
+      who merely enjoy the exercise of scrambling over great masses of rock.
+      After having been warned that most of the face of the cliff above is
+      'qualified' to come down at any moment, there is a strong inclination to
+      betake one's self to a safe distance, where, unfortunately, the wear and
+      tear of the waves have in most cases so battered the traces of early
+      marine life that there is little to attack with the hammer to compare with
+      what can be seen in the new falls. The scaur also presents an interesting
+      feature in its round ironstone nodules, half embedded in the smooth rocky
+      floor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Looking northwards there is a grand piece of coast scenery. The masses of
+      Boulby Cliffs, rising 660 feet from the sea, are the highest on the
+      Yorkshire coast. The waves break all round the rocky scaur, and fill the
+      air with their thunder, while the strong wind blows the spray into beards
+      which stream backwards from the incoming crests.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The upper course of Staithes Beck consists of two streams, flowing through
+      deep, richly-wooded ravines. They follow parallel courses very close to
+      one another for three or four miles, but their sources extend from
+      Lealholm Moor to Wapley Moor. Kilton Beck runs through another lovely
+      valley densely clothed in trees, and full of the richest woodland scenery.
+      It becomes more open in the neighbourhood of Loftus, and from thence to
+      the sea at Skinningrove the valley is green and open to the heavens.
+      Loftus is on the borders of the Cleveland mining district, and it is for
+      this reason that the town has grown to a considerable size. But although
+      the miners' new cottages are unpicturesque, and the church only dates from
+      1811, the situation is pretty, owing to the profusion of trees among the
+      houses. Skinningrove has railway-sidings and branch-lines running down to
+      it, and on the hill above the cottages stands a cluster of blast-furnaces.
+      In daylight they are merely ugly, but at night, with tongues of flame,
+      they speak of the potency of labour. I can still see that strange
+      silhouette of steel cylinders and connecting girders against a blue-black
+      sky, with silent masses of flame leaping into the heavens.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was long before iron-ore was smelted here, before even the old
+      alum-works had been started, that Skinningrove attained to some sort of
+      fame through a wonderful visit, as strange as any of those recounted by
+      Mr. Wells. It was in the year 1535&mdash;for the event is most carefully
+      recorded in a manuscript of the period&mdash;that some fishermen of
+      Skinningrove caught a Sea Man. This was such an astounding fact to record
+      that the writer of the old manuscript explains that 'old men that would be
+      loath to have their credyt crackt by a tale of a stale date, report
+      confidently that ... a <i>sea-man</i> was taken by the fishers.' They took
+      him up to an old disused house, and kept him there for many weeks, feeding
+      him on raw fish, because he persistently refused the other sorts of food
+      offered him. To the people who flocked from far and near to visit him he
+      was very courteous, and he seems to have been particularly pleased with
+      any 'fayre maydes' who visited him, for he would gaze at them with a very
+      earnest countenance, 'as if his phlegmaticke breaste had been touched with
+      a sparke of love.' The Sea Man was so well behaved that the fisher-folk
+      began to feel sufficiently sure of his desire to live with them to cease
+      to keep watch on his movements. 'One day,' we are told, 'he prively stoale
+      out of Doores, and ere he coulde be overtaken recovered the sea, whereinto
+      he plunged himself; yet as one that woulde not unmanerly depart without
+      taking of his leave, from the mydle upwardes he raysed his shoulders often
+      above the waves, and makinge signes of acknowledgeing his good
+      enterteinment to such as beheld him on the shore, as they interpreted yt;&mdash;after
+      a pretty while he dived downe and appeared no more.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This strangely detailed account says that instead of a voice the Sea Man
+      'skreaked,' but this is of small interest compared to whether he had a
+      tail or any fish-like attributes. The fact that he escaped would suggest
+      the presence of legs, but the historian is silent on this all-important
+      matter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The lofty coast-line we have followed all the way from Sandsend terminates
+      abruptly at Huntcliff Nab, the great promontory which is familiar to
+      visitors to Saltburn. Low alluvial cliffs take the place of the rocky
+      precipices, and the coast becomes flatter and flatter as you approach
+      Redcar and the marshy country at the mouth of the Tees. The original
+      Saltburn, consisting of a row of quaint fishermen's cottages, still stands
+      entirely alone, facing the sea on the Huntcliff side of the beck, and from
+      the wide, smooth sands there is little of modern Saltburn to be seen
+      besides the pier. For the rectangular streets and blocks of houses have
+      been wisely placed some distance from the edge of the grassy cliffs,
+      leaving the sea-front quite unspoiled. It would, perhaps, be well to own
+      that I have never seen Saltburn during the summer season, and for this
+      reason I may think better of the resort than if my visit had been in
+      midsummer. It was during October. The sun was shining brightly, and a
+      strong wind was blowing off the land. The wide, new-looking streets were
+      spotlessly clean, and in most of them there was no sign of life at all. It
+      was the same on the broad sweep of sands, for when I commenced a drawing
+      on the cliffs the only living creatures I could see were two small dogs.
+      About noon a girls' school was let loose upon the sands, and for half an
+      hour a furious game of hockey was fought. Then I was left alone again,
+      with the great expanse of sea, the yellow margin of sand, and the
+      reddish-brown cliffs, all beneath the wind-swept sky.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The elaborately-laid-out gardens on the steep banks of Skelton Beck are
+      the pride and joy of Saltburn, for they offer a pleasant contrast to the
+      bare slopes on the Huntcliff side and the flat country towards
+      Kirkleatham. But in this seemingly harmless retreat there used to be heard
+      horrible groanings, and I have no evidence to satisfy me that they have
+      altogether ceased. For in this matter-of-fact age such a story would not
+      be listened to, and thus those who hear the sounds may be afraid to speak
+      of them. The groanings were heard, they say, 'when all wyndes are whiste
+      and the sea restes unmoved as a standing poole.' At times they were so
+      loud as to be heard at least six miles inland, and the fishermen feared to
+      put out to sea, believing that the ocean was 'as a greedy Beaste raginge
+      for Hunger, desyers to be satisfyed with men's carcases.' There were also
+      at that time certain rocks towards Huntcliff Nab, left bare at low-tide,
+      where 'Seales in greate Heardes like Swine' were to be seen basking in the
+      sun. 'For their better scuritye,' says the old writer, 'they put in use a
+      kind of military discipline, warily preparing against a soddaine surprize,
+      for on the outermost Rocke one great Seale or more keepes sentinell, which
+      upon the first inklinge of any danger, giveth the Alarme to the rest by
+      throweing of Stones, or making a noise in the water, when he tumbles down
+      from the Rocke, the rest immediately doe the like, insomuch that yt is
+      very hard to overtake them by cunning.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In 1842 Redcar was a mere village, though more apparent on the map than
+      Saltburn; but, like its neighbour, it has grown into a great
+      watering-place, having developed two piers, a long esplanade other
+      features, which I am glad to leave to those for whom they were made, and
+      betake myself to the more romantic spots so plentiful in this broad
+      county.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH6" id="link2HCH6">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER IV<br />THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO SCARBOROUGH
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /> Although it is only six miles as the crow flies from Whitby to Robin
+      Hood's Bay, the exertion required to walk there along the top of the
+      cliffs is equal to quite double that distance, for there are so many
+      gullies to be climbed into and crawled out of that the measured distance
+      is considerably increased. It is well to remember this, for otherwise the
+      scenery of the last mile or two may not seem as fine as the first stages.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="014 (62K)" src="images/014.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As soon as the abbey and the jet-sellers are left behind, you pass a farm,
+      and come out on a great expanse of close-growing smooth turf, where the
+      whole world seems to be made up of grass and sky. The footpath goes close
+      to the edge of the cliff; in some places it has gone too close, and has
+      disappeared altogether. But these diversions can be avoided without
+      spoiling the magnificent glimpses of the rock-strewn beach nearly 200 feet
+      below. From above Saltwick Bay there is a grand view across the level
+      grass to Whitby Abbey, standing out alone on the green horizon. Down
+      below, Saltwick Nab runs out a bare black arm into the sea, which even in
+      the calmest weather angrily foams along the windward side. Beyond the
+      sturdy lighthouse that shows itself a dazzling white against the hot blue
+      of the heavens commence the innumerable gullies. Each one has its
+      trickling stream, and bushes and low trees grow to the limits of the
+      shelter afforded by the ravines; but in the open there is nothing higher
+      than the waving corn or the stone walls dividing the pastures&mdash;a
+      silent testimony to the power of the north-east wind. The village of
+      Hawsker, with its massive though modern church, can be seen across the
+      fields towards the west, but it does not offer sufficient attractions to
+      divert you from the cliffs, unless you have a desire to see in one or two
+      of the fields, gateways and rubbing-posts formed of whales' jaws,
+      suggestive of the days when Whitby carried on a thriving trade with the
+      great cetaceans. To enjoy this magnificent coast scenery, there must be
+      plenty of time to linger in those places where it seems impossible not to
+      fling yourself on the long brown grass and listen to the droning of
+      insects and the sound of the waves down below. At certain times of the day
+      the most striking colours are seen among the sunlit rocks, and the
+      boldness of the outlines of overhanging strata and great projecting
+      shoulders are a continual surprise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After rounding the North Cheek, the whole of Robin Hood's Bay is suddenly
+      laid before you. I well remember my first view of the wide sweep of sea,
+      which lay like a blue carpet edged with white, and the high escarpments of
+      rock that were in deep purple shade, except where the afternoon sun turned
+      them into the brightest greens and umbers. Three miles away, but seemingly
+      very much closer, was the bold headland of the Peak, and more inland was
+      Stoupe Brow, with Robin Hood's Butts on the hill-top. The fable connected
+      with the outlaw is scarcely worth repeating, but on the site of these
+      butts urns have been dug up, and are now to be found in Scarborough
+      Museum. The Bay Town is hidden away in a most astonishing fashion, for,
+      until you have almost reached the two bastions which guard the way up from
+      the beach, there is nothing to be seen of the charming old place. If you
+      approach by the road past the railway-station it is the same, for only
+      garishly new hotels and villas are to be seen on the high ground, and not
+      a vestige of the fishing-town can be discovered. But the road to the bay
+      at last begins to drop down very steeply, and the first old roofs appear.
+      The path at the side of the road develops into a very long series of
+      steps, and in a few minutes the narrow street, flanked by very tall
+      houses, has swallowed you up.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Everything is very clean and orderly, and, although most of the houses are
+      very old, they are generally in a good state of repair, exhibiting in
+      every case the seaman's love of fresh paint. Thus, the dark and worn stone
+      walls have bright eyes in their newly-painted doors and windows. Over
+      their doorsteps the fishermen's wives are quite fastidious, and you seldom
+      see a mark on the ochre-coloured hearthstone with which the women love to
+      brighten the worn stones. Even the scrapers are sleek with blacklead, and
+      it is not easy to find a window without spotlessly clean curtains. The
+      little coastguard station by the opening on to the shore has difficulty in
+      showing itself superior to the rest in these essential matters of
+      smartness. However, the coastguards glory in a little stone pathway
+      protected by a low wall in front of their building. On this narrow
+      quarter-deck the men love to walk to and fro, just as though they were
+      afloat and were limited to this space for exercise. At high-tide the sea
+      comes halfway up the steep opening between the coastguards' quarters and
+      the inn which is built on another bastion, and in rough weather the waves
+      break hungrily on to the strong stone walls, for the bay is entirely open
+      to the full force of gales from the east or north-east. All the way from
+      Scarborough to Whitby the coast offers no shelter of any sort in heavy
+      weather, and many vessels have been lost on the rocks. On one occasion a
+      small sailing-ship was driven right into this bay at high-tide, and the
+      bowsprit smashed into a window of the little hotel that occupied the place
+      of the present one.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="015 (95K)" src="images/015.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With angry seas periodically demolishing the outermost houses, it seems
+      almost unaccountable that the little town should have persisted in
+      clinging so tenaciously to the high-water mark; but there were probably
+      two paramount reasons for this. The deep gully was to a great extent
+      protected from the force of the winds, and, as it was soon quite brimful
+      of houses, every inch of space was valuable; then, smuggling was freely
+      practised along the coast, and the more the houses were wedged together,
+      the more opportunities for secret hiding-places would be afforded. The
+      whole town has a consciously guilty look in its evident desire to conceal
+      itself; and the steep narrow streets, the curious passages where it is
+      scarcely possible for two people to pass, and the little courts which look
+      like culs-de-sac but have a hidden flight of steps leading down to another
+      passage, seem to be purposely intricate and confusing. For I can imagine a
+      revenue cutter chasing a boat into Robin Hood's Bay, and I can see the
+      smugglers hastily landing on the beach and making for the town, followed
+      by the Excise officers, who are as unable to trace the men as though they
+      had been chasing rabbits in a warren. The stream that made this retreat
+      for the fishing-town is now scarcely more than a drain when it reaches the
+      houses, for, after passing along the foot of a great perpendicular mass of
+      shale, it rushes into a tunnel, and only appears again on the shore.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is strange that there should be so little information as to the
+      associations of Robin Hood with this fishing-village. The stories of his
+      shooting an arrow to determine where he should make his headquarters sound
+      improbable, although his keeping one or two small ships in the bay ready
+      for making his escape if suddenly attacked seems a rational precaution,
+      and if only there were a little more evidence outside the local traditions
+      to go upon, it would be pleasant to let the imagination play upon the wild
+      life led by the outlawed Earl of Huntingdon in this then inaccessible
+      coast region.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The railway southwards takes a curve inland, and, after winding in and out
+      to make the best of the contour of the hills, the train finally steams
+      very heavily and slowly into Ravenscar Station, right over the Peak and
+      630 feet above the sea. On the way you get glimpses of the moors inland,
+      and grand views over the curving bay. There is a station named Fyling
+      Hall, after Sir Hugh Cholmley's old house, halfway to Ravenscar. It was
+      about the year 1625 that Sir Hugh to a great extent rebuilt Fyling Hall,
+      which is still standing; but he came in with his family before the plaster
+      on the walls was thoroughly dry, and the household seems to have suffered
+      in health on this account. Shortly afterwards Sir Hugh lost his eldest son
+      Richard, who was only five years old, and this great trouble decided him
+      to move to Whitby; for in 1629 he sold Fyling Hall to Sir John Hotham, and
+      took up his residence in the Abbey House at Whitby.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Raven Hall, the large house conspicuously perched on the heights above the
+      Peak, is now converted into an hotel. There is a wonderful view from the
+      castellated terraces, which in the distance suggest the remains of some
+      ruined fortress. At the present time there is nothing to be seen older
+      than the house whose foundations were dug in 1774. While the building
+      operations were in progress, however, a Roman stone, now in Whitby Museum,
+      was unearthed. The inscription has been translated: 'Justinian, governor
+      of the province, and Vindician, general of the forces of Upper Britain,
+      for the second time, with the younger provincial soldiers built this fort,
+      the manager of public works giving his assistance.' There is therefore
+      ample evidence for believing that this commanding height was used by the
+      Romans as a military post, although subsequently there were no further
+      attempts to fortify the place, Scarborough, so much more easily
+      defensible, being chosen instead. A rather pathetic attempt to foster the
+      establishment of a watering-place has, however, been lately put on foot,
+      but beyond some elaborately prepared roads and two or three isolated
+      blocks of houses, there is fortunately little response to this artificial
+      cultivation of a summer resort on the bare hill-top.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Following this lofty coast southwards, you reach Hayburn Wyke, where a
+      stream drops perpendicularly over some square masses of rock. After very
+      heavy rains the waterfall attains quite a respectable size, but even under
+      such favourable conditions the popularity of the place to a great extent
+      spoils what might otherwise be a pleasant surprise to the rambler. The
+      woodland paths leading down to the cove from the hotel by the station are
+      exceedingly pretty, and in the summer it is not easy to find your way,
+      despite the direction-boards nailed to trees here and there. But there are
+      many wooded and mossy-pathed ravines equally pretty, where no charge is
+      made for admittance, and where you can be away from your fellow-mortals
+      and the silver paper they throw away from the chocolate they eat.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There is a small stone circle not far from Hayburn Wyke Station, to be
+      found without much trouble, and those who are interested in Early Man will
+      scarcely find a neighbourhood in this country more thickly honeycombed
+      with tumuli and ancient earthworks. There is no particularly plain pathway
+      through the fields to the valley where this stone circle can be seen, but
+      it can easily be found after a careful study of the large scale Ordnance
+      map which they will show you at the hotel; and if there be any difficulty
+      in locating the exact position of the stones, the people at the
+      neighbouring farm are exceedingly kind in giving directions. There are
+      about fifteen monoliths making up the circle, and they are all lying flat
+      on the ground, so that in the summer they are very much overgrown with
+      rank grass and low bushes. This was probably the burial-place of some
+      prehistoric chief, but no mound remains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH7" id="link2HCH7">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER V<br />SCARBOROUGH
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Dazzling sunshine, a furious wind, flapping and screaming gulls, crowds of
+      fishing-boats, and innumerable people jostling one another on the
+      seafront, made up the chief features of my first view of Scarborough. By
+      degrees I discovered that behind the gulls and the brown sails were old
+      houses, their roofs dimly red through the transparent haze, and above them
+      appeared a great green cliff, with its uneven outline defined by the
+      curtain walls and towers of the castle which had made Scarborough a place
+      of importance in the Civil War and in earlier times.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The wide-curving bay was filled with huge breaking waves which looked
+      capable of destroying everything within their reach, but they seemed
+      harmless enough when I looked a little further out, where eight or ten
+      gray warships were riding at their anchors, apparently motionless.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="016 (92K)" src="images/016.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From the outer arm of the harbour, where the seas were angrily attempting
+      to dislodge the top row of stones, I could make out the great mass of gray
+      buildings stretching right to the extremity of the bay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I tried to pick out individual buildings from this city-like
+      watering-place, but, beyond discovering the position of the Spa and one or
+      two of the mightier hotels, I could see very little, and instead fell to
+      wondering how many landladies and how many foreign waiters the long lines
+      of gray roofs represented. This raised so many unpleasant recollections of
+      the various types I had encountered that I determined to go no nearer to
+      modern Scarborough than the pier-head upon which I stood. A specially big
+      wave, however, soon drove me from this position to a drier if more crowded
+      spot, and, reconsidering my objections, I determined to see something of
+      the innumerable gray streets which make up the fashionable watering-place.
+      The terraced gardens on the steep cliffs along the sea-front were most
+      elaborately well kept, but a more striking feature of Scarborough is the
+      magnificence of so many of the shops. They suggest a city rather than a
+      seaside town, and give you an idea of the magnitude of the permanent
+      population of the place as well as the flood of summer and winter
+      visitors. The origin of Scarborough's popularity was undoubtedly due to
+      the chalybeate waters of the Spa, discovered in 1620, almost at the same
+      time as those of Tunbridge Wells and Epsom.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The unmistakable signs of antiquity in the narrow streets adjoining the
+      harbour irresistibly remind one of the days when sea-bathing had still to
+      be popularized, when the efficacy of Scarborough's medicinal spring had
+      not been discovered, of the days when the place bore as little resemblance
+      to its present size or appearance as the fishing-town at Robin Hood's Bay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We do not know that Piers Gaveston, Sir Hugh Cholmley, and other
+      notabilities who have left their mark on the pages of Scarborough's
+      history, might not, were they with us to-day, welcome the pierrot, the
+      switchback, the restaurant, and other means by which pleasure-loving
+      visitors wile away their hardly-earned holidays; but for my part the story
+      of Scarborough's Mayor who was tossed in a blanket is far more
+      entertaining than the songs of nigger minstrels or any of the commercial
+      attempts to amuse.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This strangely improper procedure with one who held the highest office in
+      the municipality took place in the reign of James II., and the King's
+      leanings towards Popery were the cause of all the trouble.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On April 27, 1688, a declaration for liberty of conscience was published,
+      and by royal command the said declaration was to be read in every
+      Protestant church in the land. Mr. Thomas Aislabie, the Mayor of
+      Scarborough, duly received a copy of the document, and, having handed it
+      to the clergyman, Mr. Noel Boteler, ordered him to read it in church on
+      the following Sunday morning. There seems little doubt that the worthy Mr.
+      Boteler at once recognised a wily move on the part of the King, who under
+      the cover of general tolerance would foster the growth of the Roman
+      religion until such time as the Catholics had attained sufficient power to
+      suppress Protestantism. Mr. Mayor was therefore informed that the
+      declaration would not be read. On Sunday morning (August 11) when the
+      omission had been made, the Mayor left his pew, and, stick in hand, walked
+      up the aisle, seized the minister, and caned him as he stood at his
+      reading-desk. Scenes of such a nature did not occur every day even in
+      1688, and the storm of indignation and excitement among the members of the
+      congregation did not subside so quickly as it had risen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="017 (115K)" src="images/017.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The cause of the poor minister was championed in particular by a certain
+      Captain Ouseley, and the discussion of the matter on the bowling-green on
+      the following day led to the suggestion that the Mayor should be sent for
+      to explain his conduct. As he took no notice of a courteous message
+      requesting his attendance, the Captain repeated the summons accompanied by
+      a file of musketeers. In the meantime many suggestions for dealing with
+      Mr. Aislabie in a fitting manner were doubtless made by the Captain's
+      brother officers, and, further, some settled course of action seems to
+      have been agreed upon, for we do not hear of any hesitation on the part of
+      the Captain on the arrival of the Mayor, whose rage must by this time have
+      been bordering upon apoplexy. A strong blanket was ready, and Captains
+      Carvil, Fitzherbert, Hanmer, and Rodney, led by Captain Ouseley and
+      assisted by as many others as could find room, seizing the sides, in a
+      very few moments Mr. Mayor was revolving and bumping, rising and falling,
+      as though he were no weight at all.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This public degradation was too much to be borne without substantial
+      redress. He therefore set out at once for London to obtain satisfaction
+      from his Sovereign. But Ouseley was wise enough to look after his own
+      interests in that quarter himself, and in two letters we see the upshot of
+      the matter.
+    </p>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p>
+        'LONDON, 'September 22, 1688. '....Captain Ouseley is said to be come to
+        town to give reasons for tossing the mayor of Scarborough in a blanket.
+        As part of his plea he has brought with him a collection of articles
+        against the said mayor, and the attestations of many gentlemen of note.'
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p>
+        'LONDON, 'September 29, 1688. 'The mayor of Scarborough and Captain
+        Ouseley, who tossed the other in a blanket, were heard last night before
+        the council: the Captain pleaded his majesty's gracious pardon (which is
+        in the press) and so both were dismissed.'
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <p>
+      Aislabie was the last of the only five Mayors the town had then known, and
+      the fact that the office had only been instituted in 1684 seems to show
+      that what reverence had gathered round the person of the chief magistrate
+      was not sufficient to stand in the face of such outrageous conduct as the
+      public caning of the minister. The townsfolk decided that they had had
+      enough of Mayors, for on November 16 in the same autumn Scarborough was
+      once more placed under the control of two Bailiffs, as had been the case
+      previous to 1684.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If the castle does not show many interesting buildings beyond the keep and
+      the long line of walls and drum-towers, there is so much concerning it
+      that is of great human interest that I should scarcely feel able to
+      grumble if there were still fewer remains. Behind the ancient houses in
+      Quay Street rises the steep, grassy cliff, up which one must climb by
+      various rough pathways to the fortified summit. On the side facing the
+      mainland, a hollow, known as the Dyke, is bridged by a tall and narrow
+      archway, in place of the drawbridge of the seventeenth century and earlier
+      times. On the same side is a massive gateway, looking across an open space
+      to St. Mary's Church, which suffered so severely during the sieges of the
+      castle. The maimed church&mdash;for the chancel has never been rebuilt&mdash;looks
+      across the Dyke to the shattered keep, and so apparent are the results of
+      the cannonading between them that no one requires to be told that the
+      Parliamentary forces mounted their ordnance in the chancel and tower of
+      the church, and it is equally apparent that the Royalists returned the
+      fire hotly.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The great siege lasted for nearly a year, and although his garrison was
+      small, and there was practically no hope of relief, Sir Hugh Cholmley
+      seems to have kept a stout heart up to the end. With him throughout this
+      long period of privation and suffering was his beautiful and courageous
+      wife, whose comparatively early death, at the age of fifty-four, must to
+      some extent be attributed to the strain and fatigue borne during these
+      months of warfare. Sir Hugh seems to have almost worshipped his wife, for
+      in his memoirs he is never weary of describing her perfections.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      'She was of the middle stature of women,' he writes, 'and well shaped, yet
+      in that not so singular as in the beauty of her face, which was but of a
+      little model, and yet proportionable to her body; her eyes black and full
+      of loveliness and sweetness, her eyebrows small and even, as if drawn with
+      a pencil, a very little, pretty, well-shaped mouth, which sometimes
+      (especially when in a muse or study) she would draw up into an incredible
+      little compass; her hair a sad chestnut; her complexion brown, but clear,
+      with a fresh colour in her cheeks, a loveliness in her looks
+      inexpressible; and by her whole composure was so beautiful a sweet
+      creature at her marriage as not many did parallel, few exceed her in the
+      nation; yet the inward endowments and perfections of her mind did exceed
+      those outward of her body, being a most pious virtuous person, of great
+      integrity and discerning judgment in most things.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Her husband speaks of her 'sweet good-nature,' and of how she was always
+      ready to be touched with other people's wants before her own. That such
+      nobleness of character should shine out brilliantly during the siege was
+      inevitable, and Sir Hugh tells us that, though she was of a timorous
+      nature, she bore herself during great danger with 'a courage above her
+      sex.' On one occasion Sir John Meldrum, the Parliamentary commander, sent
+      proposals to Sir Hugh Cholmley, which he accompanied with savage threats,
+      that if his terms were not immediately accepted he would make a general
+      assault on the castle that night, and in the event of one drop of his
+      men's blood being shed he would give orders for a general massacre of the
+      garrison, sparing neither man nor woman.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="018 (118K)" src="images/018.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To a man whose devotion to his beautiful wife was so great, a threat of
+      this nature must have been a severe shock to his determination to hold
+      out. But from his own writings we are able to picture for ourselves Sir
+      Hugh's anxious and troubled face lighting up on the approach of the cause
+      of his chief concern. Lady Cholmley, without any sign of the inward
+      misgivings or dejection which, with her gentle and shrinking nature, must
+      have been a great struggle, came to her husband, and implored him to on no
+      account let her peril influence his decision to the detriment of his own
+      honour or the King's affairs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sir John Meldrum's proposals having been rejected, the garrison prepared
+      itself for the furious attack commenced on May 11.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The assault was well planned, for while the Governor's attention was
+      turned towards the gateway leading to the castle entrance, another attack
+      was made at the southern end of the wall towards the sea, where until the
+      year 1730 Charles's Tower stood. The bloodshed at this point was greater
+      than at the gateway. At the head of a chosen division of troops, Sir John
+      Meldrum climbed the almost precipitous ascent with wonderful courage, only
+      to meet with such spirited resistance on the part of the besieged that,
+      when the attack was abandoned, it was discovered that Meldrum had received
+      a dangerous wound penetrating to his thigh, and that several of his
+      officers and men had been killed. Meanwhile, at the gateway, the first
+      success of the assailants had been checked at the foot of the Grand Tower
+      or Keep, for at that point the rush of drab-coated and helmeted men was
+      received by such a shower of stones and missiles that many stumbled and
+      were crushed on the steep pathway. Not even Cromwell's men could continue
+      to face such a reception, and before very long the Governor could embrace
+      his wife in the knowledge that the great attack had failed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In between such scenes as these, when the air was filled with the shouts
+      and yells of attackers and besieged, when the crack of the muskets and the
+      intermittent reports of the cannon almost deafened her, Lady Cholmley was
+      assiduously attending to the wounded and the many cases of scurvy, which
+      was rampant among the garrison. One of her maids who shared these labours
+      crept out of the castle one night with a view to reaching the town and
+      escaping further drudgery and privations; but a Roundhead sentry
+      discovered her and sent her back to the castle, thinking that she was a
+      spy. When the great keep was partially destroyed, Lady Cholmley was forced
+      'to lie in a little cabbin on the ground several months together, when she
+      took a defluction of rhume upon one of her eyes, which troubled her ever
+      after, and got also a touch of the scurvy then rife in the castle, and of
+      which it is thought she was not well after.' Who can wonder that Sir Hugh
+      appreciated the courage of this noble lady, and I marvel still more at her
+      fortitude when I read of the frailties her husband mentions so gently,
+      fearing, no doubt, that without a few shadows no one would accept his
+      picture as genuine. 'If she had taken impression of anything, it was hard
+      to remove it with reason or argument, till she had considered of it
+      herself; neither could she well endure adversity or crosses, though it
+      pleased the Lord to exercise her with them, by my many troubles and the
+      calamity of the times. She would be much troubled at evils which could
+      neither be prevented nor remedied, and sometimes discontented without any
+      great cause, especially in her disposition of health; for, being of a
+      tender constitution, and spun of a fine thread, every disaster took
+      impression on her body and mind, and would make her both sick and often
+      inclinable to be melancholy, especially in my absence.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At last, on July 22, 1645&mdash;his forty-fifth birthday&mdash;Sir Hugh
+      was forced to come to an agreement with the enemy, by which he honourably
+      surrendered the castle three days later. It was a sad procession that
+      wound its way down the steep pathway, littered with the debris of broken
+      masonry: for many of Sir Hugh's officers and soldiers were in such a weak
+      condition that they had to be carried out in sheets or helped along
+      between two men, and the Parliamentary officer adds, rather tersely, that
+      'the rest were not very fit to march.' The scurvy had depleted the ranks
+      of the defenders to such an extent that the women in the castle, despite
+      the presence of Lady Cholmley, threatened to stone the Governor unless he
+      capitulated.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The reduction of Scarborough Castle was considered a profound success to
+      the side of the Parliament, 'The Moderate Intelligencer' of July 23, 1645,
+      announcing the fact with great satisfaction, 'we heare likewise that <i>Scarborough</i>
+      is also yeelded into our hands, Sir Hugh hath none other conditions for
+      himself, but with his wife and children passe beyond seas. This is
+      excellent good newes, and is a very terrible blow to the enemy.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Three years later the castle was again besieged by the Parliamentary
+      forces, for Colonel Matthew Boynton, the Governor, had declared for the
+      King. The garrison held out from August to December, when terms were made
+      with Colonel Hugh Bethell, by which the Governor, officers, gentlemen, and
+      soldiers, marched out with 'their colours flying, drums beating, musquets
+      loaden, bandeleers filled, matches lighted, and bullet in mouth, to a
+      close called Scarborough Common,' where they laid down their arms.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Before I leave Scarborough I must go back to early times, in order that
+      the antiquity of the place may not be slighted owing to the omission of
+      any reference to the town in the Domesday Book. Tosti, Count of
+      Northumberland, who, as everyone knows, was brother of the Harold who
+      fought at Senlac Hill, had brought about an insurrection of the
+      Northumbrians, and having been dispossessed by his brother, he revenged
+      himself by inviting the help of Haralld Hadrada, King of Norway. The
+      Norseman promptly accepted the offer, and, taking with him his family and
+      an army of warriors, sailed for the Shetlands, where Tosti joined him. The
+      united forces then came down the east coast of Britain until they reached
+      Scardaburgum, where they landed and prepared to fight the inhabitants. The
+      town was then built entirely of timber, and there was, apparently, no
+      castle of any description on the great hill, for the Norsemen, finding
+      their opponents inclined to offer a stout resistance, tried other tactics.
+      They gained possession of the hill, constructed a huge fire, and when the
+      wood was burning fiercely, flung the blazing brands down on to the wooden
+      houses below. The fire spread from one hut to another with sufficient
+      speed to drive out the defenders, who in the confusion which followed were
+      slaughtered by the enemy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This occurred in the momentous year 1066, when Harold, having defeated the
+      Norsemen and slain Haralld Hadrada at Stamford Bridge, had to hurry
+      southwards to meet William the Norman at Hastings. It is not surprising,
+      therefore, that the compilers of the Conqueror's survey should have failed
+      to record the existence of the blackened embers of what had once been a
+      town. But such a site as the castle hill could not long remain idle in the
+      stormy days of the Norman Kings, and William le Gros, Earl of Albemarle
+      and Lord of Holderness, recognising the natural defensibility of the rock,
+      built the massive walls which have withstood so many assaults, and even
+      now form the most prominent feature of Scarborough.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH8" id="link2HCH8">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER VI<br />WHITBY
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p>
+        'Behold the glorious summer sea As night's dark wings unfold, And o'er
+        the waters, 'neath the stars, The harbour lights behold.'
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <p>
+      E. Teschemacher.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Despite a huge influx of summer visitors, and despite the modern town
+      which has grown up to receive them, Whitby is still one of the most
+      strikingly picturesque towns in England. But at the same time, if one
+      excepts the abbey, the church, and the market-house, there are scarcely
+      any architectural attractions in the town. The charm of the place does not
+      lie so much in detail as in broad effects. The narrow streets have no
+      surprises in the way of carved-oak brackets or curious panelled doorways,
+      although narrow passages and steep flights of stone steps abound. On the
+      other hand, the old parts of the town, when seen from a distance, are
+      always presenting themselves in new apparel.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="019 (113K)" src="images/019.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the early morning the East Cliff generally appears merely as a pale
+      gray silhouette with a square projection representing the church, and a
+      fretted one the abbey. But as the sun climbs upwards, colour and
+      definition grow out of the haze of smoke and shadows, and the roofs assume
+      their ruddy tones. At mid-day, when the sunlight pours down upon the
+      medley of houses clustered along the face of the cliff, the scene is
+      brilliantly coloured. The predominant note is the red of the chimneys and
+      roofs and stray patches of brickwork, but the walls that go down to the
+      water's edge are green below and full of rich browns above, and in many
+      places the sides of the cottages are coloured with an ochre wash, while
+      above them all the top of the cliff appears covered with grass. On a clear
+      day, when detached clouds are passing across the sun, the houses are
+      sometimes lit up in the strangest fashion, their quaint outlines being
+      suddenly thrown out from the cliff by a broad patch of shadow upon the
+      grass and rocks behind. But there is scarcely a chimney in this old part
+      of Whitby that does not contribute to the mist of blue-gray smoke that
+      slowly drifts up the face of the cliff, and thus, when there is no bright
+      sunshine, colour and detail are subdued in the haze.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In many towns whose antiquity and picturesqueness are more popular than
+      the attractions of Whitby, the railway deposits one in some distressingly
+      ugly modern excrescence, from which it may even be necessary for a
+      stranger to ask his way to the old-world features he has come to see. But
+      at Whitby the railway, without doing any harm to the appearance of the
+      town, at once gives a visitor as typical a scene of fishing-life as he
+      will ever find. When the tide is up and the wharves are crowded with
+      boats, this upper portion of Whitby Harbour is at its best, and to step
+      from the railway compartment entered at King's Cross into this busy scene
+      is an experience to be remembered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the deepening twilight of a clear evening the harbour gathers to itself
+      the additional charm of mysterious indefiniteness, and among the
+      long-drawn-out reflections appear sinuous lines of yellow light beneath
+      the lamps by the bridge. Looking towards the ocean from the outer harbour,
+      one sees the massive arms which Whitby has thrust into the waves, holding
+      aloft the steady lights that
+    </p>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p>
+        'Safely guide the mighty ships Into the harbour bay.'
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <p>
+      If we keep to the waterside, modern Whitby has no terrors for us. It is
+      out of sight, and might therefore have never existed. But when we have
+      crossed the bridge, and passed along the narrow thoroughfare known as
+      Church Street to the steps leading up the face of the cliff, we must
+      prepare ourselves for a new aspect of the town. There, upon the top of the
+      West Cliff, stand rows of sad-looking and dun-coloured lodging-houses,
+      relieved by the aggressive bulk of a huge hotel, with corner turrets, that
+      frowns savagely at the unfinished crescent, where there are many
+      apartments with 'rooms facing the sea.' The only redeeming feature of this
+      modern side of Whitby is the circumscribed area it occupies, so that the
+      view from the top of the 199 steps we have climbed is not altogether
+      vitiated. A distinctive feature of the west side of the river has been
+      lost in the sails of the Union Mill, which were taken down some years ago,
+      and the solid brick building where many of the Whitby people, by the
+      excellent method of cooperation, obtained their flour at reduced prices is
+      now the headquarters of some volunteers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The town seems to have no idea of re-erecting the sails of the windmill,
+      and as I have so far heard of no scheme for demolishing the
+      unpleasant-looking houses on the West Cliff, we will shut our eyes to
+      these shortcomings, and admit that the task is not difficult in the
+      presence of such a superb view over Whitby's glorious surroundings. We
+      look over the chimney-stacks of the topmost houses, and see the silver Esk
+      winding placidly in the deep channel it has carved for itself; and further
+      away we see the far-off moorland heights, brown and blue, where the
+      sources of the broad river down below are fed by the united efforts of
+      innumerable tiny streams deep in the heather. Behind us stands the
+      massive-looking parish church, with its Norman tower, so sturdily built
+      that its height seems scarcely greater than its breadth. There is surely
+      no other church with such a ponderous exterior that is so completely
+      deceptive as to its internal aspect, for St. Mary's contains the most
+      remarkable series of beehive-like galleries that were ever crammed into a
+      parish church. They are not merely very wide and ill-arranged, but they
+      are superposed one above the other. The free use of white paint all over
+      the sloping tiers of pews has prevented the interior from being as dark as
+      it would have otherwise been, but the result of all this painted deal has
+      been to give the building the most eccentric and indecorous appearance.
+      Still, there are few who will fail to thank the good folks of Whitby for
+      preserving an ecclesiastical curiosity of such an unusual nature. The
+      box-pews on the floor of the church are separated by very narrow gangways&mdash;we
+      cannot call them aisles&mdash;and the gallery across the chancel arch is
+      particularly noticeable for the twisted wooden columns supporting it.
+      Various pews in the transepts and elsewhere have been reserved for many
+      generations for the use of people from outlying villages, such as Aislaby,
+      Ugglebarnby, and Hawskercum-Stainsacre, and it was this necessity for
+      accommodating a very large congregation that taxed the ingenuity of the
+      churchwardens, and resulted in the strange interior existing to-day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The early history of Whitby from the time of the landing of Roman soldiers
+      in Dunsley Bay seems to be very closely associated with the abbey founded
+      by Hilda about two years after the battle of Winwidfield, fought on
+      November 15, A.D. 654; but I will not venture to state an opinion here as
+      to whether there was any town at Streoneshalh before the building of the
+      abbey, or whether the place that has since become known as Whitby grew on
+      account of the presence of the abbey. Such matters as these have been
+      fought out by an expert in the archaeology of Cleveland&mdash;the late
+      Canon Atkinson, who seemed to take infinite pleasure in demolishing the
+      elaborately constructed theories of those painstaking historians of the
+      eighteenth century, Dr. Young and Mr. Lionel Charlton.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Many facts, however, which throw light on the early days of the abbey are
+      now unassailable. We see that Hilda must have been a most remarkable woman
+      for her times, instilling into those around her a passion for learning as
+      well as right-living, for despite the fact that they worked and prayed in
+      rude wooden buildings, with walls formed, most probably, of split
+      tree-trunks, after the fashion of the church at Greenstead in Essex, we
+      find the institution producing, among others, such men as Bosa and John,
+      both Bishops of York, and such a poet as Caadmon. The legend of his
+      inspiration, however, may be placed beside the story of how the saintly
+      Abbess turned the snakes into the fossil ammonites with which the liassic
+      shores of Whitby are strewn. Hilda, who probably died in the year 680, was
+      succeeded by Aelfleda, the daughter of King Oswin of Northumbria, whom she
+      had trained in the abbey, and there seems little doubt that her pupil
+      carried on successfully the beneficent work of the foundress.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="020 (114K)" src="images/020.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Aelfleda had the support of her mother's presence as well as the wise
+      counsels of Bishop Trumwine, who had taken refuge at Streoneshalh, after
+      having been driven from his own sphere of work by the depredations of the
+      Picts and Scots. We then learn that Aelfleda died at the age of
+      fifty-nine, but from that year&mdash;probably 713&mdash;a complete silence
+      falls upon the work of the abbey; for if any records were made during the
+      next century and a half, they have been totally lost. About the year 867
+      the Danes reached this part of Yorkshire, and we know that they laid waste
+      the abbey, and most probably the town also; but the invaders gradually
+      started new settlements, or 'bys,' and Whitby must certainly have grown
+      into a place of some size by the time of Edward the Confessor, for just
+      previous to the Norman invasion it was assessed for Danegeld to the extent
+      of a sum equivalent to £3,500 at the present time.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After the Conquest a monk named Reinfrid succeeded in reviving a monastery
+      on the site of the old one, having probably gained the permission of
+      William de Percy, the lord of the district. The new establishment,
+      however, was for monks only, and was for some time merely a priory.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The form of the successive buildings from the time of Hilda until the
+      building of the stately abbey church, whose ruins are now to be seen, is a
+      subject of great interest, but, unfortunately, there are few facts to go
+      upon. The very first church was, as I have already suggested, a building
+      of rude construction, scarcely better than the humble dwellings of the
+      monks and nuns. The timber walls were most probably thatched, and the
+      windows would be of small lattice or boards pierced with small holes.
+      Gradually the improvements brought about would have led to the use of
+      stone for the walls, and the buildings destroyed by the Danes probably
+      resembled such examples of Anglo-Saxon work as may still be seen in the
+      churches of Bradford-on-Avon and Monkwearmouth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The buildings erected by Reinfrid under the Norman influence then
+      prevailing in England must have been a slight advance upon the destroyed
+      fabric, and we know that during the time of his successor, Serlo de Percy,
+      there was a certain Godfrey in charge of the building operations, and
+      there is every reason to believe that he completed the church during the
+      fifty years of prosperity the monastery passed through at that time. But
+      this was not the structure which survived, for towards the end of
+      Stephen's reign, or during that of Henry II., the unfortunate convent was
+      devastated by the King of Norway, who entered the harbour, and, in the
+      words of the chronicle, 'laid waste everything, both within doors and
+      without.' The abbey slowly recovered from this disaster, and if any church
+      were built on the ruins between 1160 and the reconstruction commenced in
+      1220, there is no part of it surviving to-day in the beautiful ruin that
+      still makes a conspicuous landmark from the sea.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was after the Dissolution that the abbey buildings came into the hands
+      of Sir Richard Cholmley, who paid over to Henry VIII. the sum of £333 8s.
+      4d. The manors of Eskdaleside and Ugglebarnby, with all 'their rights,
+      members and appurtenances as they formerly had belonged to the abbey of
+      Whitby,' henceforward belonged to Sir Richard and his successors. Sir Hugh
+      Cholmley, whose defence of Scarborough Castle has made him a name in
+      history, was born on July 22, 1600, at Roxby, near Pickering. He has been
+      justly called 'the father of Whitby,' and it is to him we owe a
+      fascinating account of his life at Whitby in Stuart and Jacobean times. He
+      describes how he lived for some time in the gate-house of the abbey
+      buildings, 'till my house was repaired and habitable, which then was very
+      ruinous and all unhandsome, the wall being only of timber and plaster, and
+      ill-contrived within: and besides the repairs, or rather re-edifying the
+      house, I built the stable and barn, I heightened the outwalls of the court
+      double to what they were, and made all the wall round about the paddock;
+      so that the place hath been improved very much, both for beauty and
+      profit, by me more than all my ancestors, for there was not a tree about
+      the house but was set in my time, and almost by my own hand. The Court
+      levels, which laid upon a hanging ground, unhandsomely, very ill-watered,
+      having only the low well, which is in the Almsers-close, which I covered;
+      and also discovered, and erected, the other adjoining conduit, and the
+      well in the courtyard from whence I conveyed by leaden pipes water into
+      the house, brewhouse, and washhouse.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the spring of 1636 the reconstruction of the abbey house was finished,
+      and Sir Hugh moved in with his family. 'My dear wife,' he says, '(who was
+      excellent at dressing and making all handsome within doors) had put it
+      into a fine posture, and furnished with many good things, so that, I
+      believe, there were few gentlemen in the country, of my rank, exceeded
+      it.... I was at this time made Deputy-lieutenant and Colonel over the
+      Train-bands within the hundred of Whitby Strand, Ryedale, Pickering, Lythe
+      and Scarborough town; for that, my father being dead, the country looked
+      upon me as the chief of my family.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sir Hugh had been somewhat addicted to gambling in his younger days, and
+      had made a few debts of his own before he undertook to deal with his
+      father's heavy liabilities, and in the early years of his married life he
+      had been very much taken up with the difficult and arduous work of paying
+      off the amounts due to the clamorous creditors. During this process he had
+      been forced to live very quietly, and had incidentally sifted out his real
+      friends from among his relations and acquaintances. Thus, it is with
+      pardonable pride that he says: 'Having mastered my debts, I did not only
+      appear at all public meetings in a very gentlemanly equipage, but lived in
+      as handsome and plentiful fashion at home as any gentleman in all the
+      country, of my rank. I had between thirty and forty in my ordinary family,
+      a chaplain who said prayers every morning at six, and again before dinner
+      and supper, a porter who merely attended the gates, which were ever shut
+      up before dinner, when the bell rung to prayers, and not opened till one
+      o'clock, except for some strangers who came to dinner, which was ever fit
+      to receive three or four besides my family, without any trouble; and
+      whatever their fare was, they were sure to have a hearty welcome. Twice a
+      week, a certain number of old people, widows and indigent persons, were
+      served at my gates with bread and good pottage made of beef, which I
+      mention that those which succeed may follow the example.' Not content with
+      merely benefiting the aged folk of his town, Sir Hugh took great pains to
+      extend the piers, and in 1632 went to London to petition the
+      'Council-table' to allow a general contribution for this purpose
+      throughout the country. As a result of his efforts, 'all that part of the
+      pier to the west end of the harbour' was erected, and yet he complains
+      that, though it was the means of preserving a large section of the town
+      from the sea, the townsfolk would not interest themselves in the repairs
+      necessitated by force of the waves. 'I wish, with all my heart,' he
+      exclaims, 'the next generation may have more public spirit.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sir Hugh Cholmley also built a market-house for the town, and removed the
+      bridge to its present position. Owing to rebuilding, neither of these
+      actual works remains with us to-day, but their influence on the progress
+      of Whitby must have been considerable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="021 (107K)" src="images/021.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On a June morning in the year after Sir Hugh had settled down so
+      handsomely in his refurbished house, two Dutch men-of-war chased into the
+      harbour 'a small pickroon belonging to the King of Spain.' The Hollanders
+      had 400 men in one ship and 200 in the other, but the Spaniard had only
+      thirty men and two small guns. The Holland ships proceeded to anchor
+      outside the harbour, and, lowering their longboats, sent ashore forty men,
+      all armed with pistols. But the Spaniards had been on the alert, and
+      having warped their vessel to a safer position above the bridge, they
+      placed their two guns on the deck, and every man prepared himself to
+      defend the ship.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      'I, having notice of this,' writes Sir Hugh, 'fearing they might do here
+      the like affront as they did at Scarborough, where they landed one hundred
+      men, and took a ship belonging to the King of Spain out of the harbour,
+      sent for the Holland Captains, and ordered them not to offer any act of
+      hostility; for that the Spaniard was the King's friend, and to have
+      protection in his ports. After some expostulations, they promised not to
+      meddle with the Dunkirker [Spaniard] if he offered no injury to them;
+      which I gave him strict charge against, and to trust to the King's
+      protection. These Holland Captains leaving me, and going into the town,
+      sent for the Dunkirk Captain to dine with them, and soon after took
+      occasion to quarrel with him, at the same time ordered their men to fall
+      on the Dunkirk ship, which they soon surprised, the Captain and most of
+      the men being absent. I being in my courtyard, and hearing some pistols
+      discharged, and being told the Dunkirker and Hollanders were at odds, made
+      haste unto the town, having only a cane in my hand, and one that followed
+      me without any weapon, thinking my presence would pacify all differences.
+      When I came to the river-side, on the sand between the coal-yard and the
+      bridge, I found the Holland Captain with a pistol in his hand, calling to
+      his men, then in the Dunkirk ship, to send a boat for him. I gave him good
+      words, and held him in treaty until I got near him, and then, giving a
+      leap on him, caught hold of his pistol, which I became master of; yet not
+      without some hazard from the ship, for one from thence levelled a musket
+      at me; but I espying it, turned the Captain between me and him, which
+      prevented his shooting.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When Sir Hugh had secured the Captain, he sent a boatload of men to retake
+      the ship, and as soon as the Hollanders saw it approaching, they fled to
+      their own vessels outside the harbour. In the afternoon Sir Hugh
+      intercepted a letter to his prisoner, telling him to be of good cheer, for
+      at midnight they would land 200 men and bring him away. This was a serious
+      matter, and Sir Hugh sent to Sir John Hotham, the High Sheriff of the
+      county, who at once came from Fyling, and summoned all the adjacent
+      train-bands. There were about 200 men on guard all through the night, and
+      evidently the Hollanders had observed the activity on shore, for they made
+      no attack. The ships continued to hover outside the harbour for two or
+      three days, until Sir Hugh sent the Captain to York. He was afterwards
+      taken to London, where he remained a prisoner, after the fashion of those
+      times, for nearly two years.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was after the troublous times of the Civil War that Sir Hugh
+      re-established himself at Whitby, and opened a new era of prosperity for
+      himself and the townsfolk in the alum-works at Saltwick Nab.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> <a name="linkch7" id="linkch7"></a> <br />
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER VII<br />THE CLEVELAND HILLS
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On their their northern and western flanks the Cleveland Hills have a most
+      imposing and mountainous aspect, although their greatest altitudes do not
+      aspire more than about 1,500 feet. But they rise so suddenly to their full
+      height out of the flat sea of green country that they often appear as a
+      coast defended by a bold range of mountains. Roseberry Topping stands out
+      in grim isolation, on its masses of alum rock, like a huge seaworn crag,
+      considerably over 1,000 feet high. But this strangely menacing peak raises
+      its defiant head over nothing but broad meadows, arable land, and
+      woodlands, and his only warfare is with the lower strata of storm-clouds,
+      which is a convenient thing for the people who live in these parts; for
+      long ago they used the peak as a sign of approaching storms, having
+      reduced the warning to the easily-remembered couplet:
+    </p>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p>
+        'When Roseberry Topping wears a cap, Let Cleveland then beware of a
+        clap.'
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <p>
+      In a similar manner the Scarborough folk used Oliver's Mount, the isolated
+      hill at the back of the town, as a ready-made barometer, for they knew
+      that
+    </p>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p>
+        'When Oliver's Mount puts on his hat, Scarborough town will pay for
+        that.'
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <p>
+      It is difficult to decide on the correct spelling of Roseberry Topping, as
+      it is often spelt in the same way as the earldom, and as frequently in old
+      writings it appears as 'Rosebury.' Camden, who wrote in Tudor times,
+      called it Ounsberry Topping, which certainly does not help matters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="022 (115K)" src="images/022.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From the fact that you can see this remarkable peak from almost every
+      point of the compass except south-westwards, it must follow that from the
+      top of the hill there are views in all those directions. But to see so
+      much of the country at once comes as a surprise to everyone. Stretching
+      inland towards the backbone of England, there is spread out a huge tract
+      of smiling country, covered with a most complex network of hedges, which
+      gradually melt away into the indefinite blue edge of the world where the
+      hills of Wensleydale rise from the plain. Looking across the little town
+      of Guisborough, lying near the shelter of the hills, to the broad sweep of
+      the North Sea, this piece of Yorkshire seems so small that one almost
+      expects to see the Cheviots away in the north. But, beyond the winding
+      Tees and the drifting smoke of the great manufacturing towns on its banks,
+      one must be content with the county of Durham, a huge section of which is
+      plainly visible. Turning towards the brown moorlands, the cultivation is
+      exchanged for ridge beyond ridge of total desolation&mdash;a huge tract of
+      land in this crowded England where the population for many square miles at
+      a time consists of the inmates of a lonely farm or two in the
+      circumscribed cultivated areas of the dales.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Eight or nine hundred years ago these valleys were choked up with forests.
+      The Early British inhabitants were more inclined to the hill-tops than the
+      hollows, if the innumerable indications of their settlements be any guide,
+      and there is every reason for believing that many of the hollows in the
+      folds of the heathery moorlands were rarely visited by man. Thus, the
+      suggestion has been made that a few of the last representatives of now
+      extinct monsters may have survived in these wild retreats, for how
+      otherwise do we find persistent stories in these parts of Yorkshire,
+      handed down we cannot tell how many centuries, of strange creatures
+      described as 'worms'? At Loftus they show you the spot where a 'grisly
+      worm' had its lair, and in many places there are traditions of strange
+      long-bodied dragons who were slain by various valiant men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When we remember that the last wolf was killed in Scotland in the
+      seventeenth century, that Africa is still adding to the list of living
+      animals, and that the caves at Kirkdale, near Kirby Moorside, revealed the
+      bones of elephants, tigers, hyenas, and rhinoceroses, in an excellent
+      state of preservation, though they were all broken, we are inclined to
+      believe that these strange stories may have had some basis of fact.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On Easby Moor, a few miles to the south of Roseberry Topping, the tall
+      column to the memory of Captain Cook stands like a lighthouse on this
+      inland coast-line. The lofty position it occupies among these brown and
+      purply-green heights makes the monument visible over a great tract of the
+      sailor's native Cleveland. The people who live in Marton, the village of
+      his birthplace, can see the memorial of their hero's fame, and the country
+      lads of to-day are constantly reminded of the success which attended the
+      industry and perseverance of a humble Marton boy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="023 (104K)" src="images/023.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The cottage where James Cook was born in 1728 has gone, but the field in
+      which it stood is called Cook's Garth. The shop at Staithes, generally
+      spoken of as a 'huckster's,' where Cook was apprenticed as a boy, has also
+      disappeared; but, unfortunately, that unpleasant story of his having taken
+      a shilling from his master's till, when the attractions of the sea proved
+      too much for him to resist, persistently clings to all accounts of his
+      early life. There seems no evidence to convict him of this theft, but
+      there are equally no facts by which to clear him. But if we put into the
+      balance his subsequent term of employment at Whitby, the excellent
+      character he gained when he went to sea, and Professor J.K. Laughton's
+      statement that he left Staithes 'after some disagreement with his master,'
+      there seems every reason to believe that the story is untrue. If it were
+      otherwise, the towering monument on Easby Moor would be a questionable
+      inspiration to posterity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have seldom seen a more uninhabited and inhospitable-looking country
+      than the broad extent of purple hills that stretch away to the south-west
+      from Great Ayton and Kildale Moors. Walking from Guisborough to Kildale on
+      a wild and stormy afternoon in October, I was totally alone for the whole
+      distance when I had left behind me the baker's boy who was on his way to
+      Hutton with a heavy basket of bread and cakes. Hutton, which is somewhat
+      of a model village for the retainers attached to Hutton Hall, stands in a
+      lovely hollow at the edge of the moors. The steep hills are richly clothed
+      with sombre woods, and the peace and seclusion reigning there is in marked
+      contrast to the bleak wastes above. When I climbed the steep road on that
+      autumn afternoon, and, passing the zone of tall, withered bracken, reached
+      the open moorland, I seemed to have come out merely to be the plaything of
+      the elements; for the south-westerly gale, when it chose to do so, blew so
+      fiercely that it was difficult to make any progress at all. Overhead was a
+      dark roof composed of heavy masses of cloud, forming long parallel lines
+      of gray right to the horizon. On each side of the rough, water-worn road
+      the heather made a low wall, two or three feet high, and stretched right
+      away to the horizon in every direction. In the lulls, between the fierce
+      blasts, I could hear the trickle of the water in the rivulets deep down in
+      the springy cushion of heather. A few nimble sheep would stare at me from
+      a distance, and then disappear, or some grouse might hover over a piece of
+      rising ground; but otherwise there were no signs of living creatures.
+      Nearing Kildale, the road suddenly plunged downwards to a stream flowing
+      through a green, cultivated valley, with a lonely farm on the further
+      slope. There was a fir-wood above this, and as I passed over the hill,
+      among the tall, bare stems, the clouds parted a little in the west, and
+      let a flood of golden light into the wood. Instantly the gloom seemed to
+      disappear, and beyond the dark shoulder of moorland, where the Cook
+      monument appeared against the glory of the sunset, there seemed to reign
+      an all-pervading peace, the wood being quite silent, for the wind had
+      dropped.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The rough track through the trees descended hurriedly, and soon gave a
+      wide view over Kildale. The valley was full of colour from the glowing
+      west, and the steep hillsides opposite appeared lighter than the indigo
+      clouds above, now slightly tinged with purple. The little village of
+      Kildale nestled down below, its church half buried in yellow foliage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The railway comes through Eskdale from Whitby to Stockton-on-Tees, and
+      thus gives the formerly remote valley easy communication with the outside
+      world. It is dangerous, however, not to allow an ample margin for catching
+      the trains, for there are only two or three in each direction in the
+      autumn and winter, and a gap of about four hours generally separates the
+      trains. I had been a long ramble over the moors on the north side of
+      Eskdale, and had allowed the sun to set while I was still drawing on the
+      top of Danby Beacon. But, having a good map with me, I was quite confident
+      of finding the road to Lealholm without difficulty, as the distance was
+      only a very few miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The crimson globe in the west disappeared behind the dark horizon over the
+      two Fryup valleys, and left the world in twilight. But it would not be
+      dark for an hour, and except for mistaking the sheep for boulders and
+      boulders for sheep, and being consequently surprised when what I had
+      imagined was a mass of gray stone suddenly disappeared on my approach,
+      nothing unusual happened. I had no fear of losing my way, but what my map
+      had led me to believe would be a plain road was a mere track in the
+      heather, and at times it became too indistinct to follow easily. Lealholm
+      Station lay in the valley on my right, but I could find no road leading
+      there, and I wasted precious time in frequent consultations with the map.
+      Coming to a farm, I inquired the way, and was directed over a number of
+      muddy fields, which gradually brought me down into the valley. It was now
+      sufficiently dark for all the landmarks I had noticed to be scarcely
+      visible, but, on inquiring at a cottage, I was told that it would take
+      only ten minutes to walk to the station. I had a clear quarter of an hour,
+      and, hurrying forward, soon found myself on a railway-bridge over a deep
+      cutting. There was just enough light to see that no station was in sight,
+      and it was impossible to find in which direction the station lay. There
+      was no time to go back to the cottage, and there were no others to be
+      seen. Looking at the map again, I could not discover the position of this
+      bridge, for it was on no road, as it seemed merely to connect the pastures
+      on either side. However, I felt fairly certain that I had rather
+      overstepped the station, and therefore climbed down the bank into the
+      cutting, and commenced walking towards the west. Coming out into the open,
+      I thought I saw the lamps on the platforms about half a mile further on;
+      but on pressing forward the lights became suddenly bigger, and in a minute
+      my train passed me with a thundering rush. Evidently Lealholm was to the
+      east, and not the west of that cutting. It was then 5.40, and the next
+      train left for Whitby at about a quarter to ten. When the tail-lights of
+      the train had disappeared into the cutting, I felt very much alone, and
+      the silence of the countryside became oppressive. It seemed to me that
+      this part of Yorkshire was just as lonely as when Canon Atkinson first
+      commenced his work in Danby parish, and I was reminded of his friend's
+      remark on hearing that he was going there: 'Why, Danby was not found out
+      when they sent Bonaparte to St. Helena, or else they never would have
+      taken the trouble to send him all the way there!'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="024 (51K)" src="images/024.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ruined Danby Castle can still be seen on the slope above the Esk, but
+      the ancient Bow Bridge at Castleton, which was built at the end of the
+      twelfth century, was barbarously and needlessly destroyed in 1873. A
+      picture of the bridge has, fortunately, been preserved in Canon Atkinson's
+      'Forty Years in a Moorland Parish.' That book has been so widely read that
+      it seems scarcely necessary to refer to it here, but without the help of
+      the Vicar, who knew every inch of his wild parish, the Danby district must
+      seem much less interesting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH9" id="link2HCH9">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER VIII<br />GUISBOROUGH AND THE SKELTON VALLEY
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Although a mere fragment of the Augustinian Priory of Guisborough is
+      standing to-day, it is sufficiently imposing to convey a powerful
+      impression of the former size and magnificence of the monastic church.
+      This fragment is the gracefully buttressed east end of the choir, which
+      rises from the level meadow-land to the east of the town. The stonework is
+      now of a greenish-gray tone, but in the shadows there is generally a look
+      of blue. Beyond the ruin and through the opening of the great east window,
+      now bare of tracery, you see the purple moors, with the ever-formidable
+      Roseberry Topping holding its head above the green woods and pastures.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The destruction of the priory took place most probably during the reign of
+      Henry VIII., but there are no recorded facts to give the date of the
+      spoiling of the stately buildings. The materials were probably sold to the
+      highest bidder, for in the town of Guisborough there are scattered many
+      fragments of richly-carved stone, and Ord, one of the historians of
+      Cleveland, says: 'I have beheld with sorrow, and shame, and indignation,
+      the richly ornamented columns and carved architraves of God's temple
+      supporting the thatch of a pig-house.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="025 (114K)" src="images/025.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Norman priory church, founded in 1119, by the wealthy Robert de Brus
+      of Skelton, was, unfortunately, burnt down on May 16, 1289. Walter of
+      Hemingburgh, a canon of Guisborough, has written a quaintly detailed
+      account of the origin of the fire. Translated from the monkish Latin, he
+      says: 'On the first day of rogation-week, a devouring flame consumed our
+      church of Gysburn, with many theological books and nine costly chalices,
+      as well as vestments and sumptuous images; and because past events are
+      serviceable as a guide to future inquiries, I have thought it desirable,
+      in the present little treatise, to give an account of the catastrophe,
+      that accidents of a similar nature may be avoided through this calamity
+      allotted to us. On the day above mentioned, which was very destructive to
+      us, a vile plumber, with his two workmen, burnt our church whilst
+      soldering up two holes in the old lead with fresh pewter. For some days he
+      had already, with a wicked disposition, commenced, and placed his iron
+      crucibles, along with charcoal and fire, on rubbish, or steps of a great
+      height, upon dry wood with some turf and other combustibles. About noon
+      (in the cross, in the body of the church, where he remained at his work
+      until after Mass) he descended before the procession of the convent,
+      thinking that the fire had been put out by his workmen. They, however,
+      came down quickly after him, without having completely extinguished the
+      fire; and the fire among the charcoal revived, and partly from the heat of
+      the iron, and partly from the sparks of the charcoal, the fire spread
+      itself to the wood and other combustibles beneath. After the fire was thus
+      commenced, the lead melted, and the joists upon the beams ignited; and
+      then the fire increased prodigiously, and consumed everything.'
+      Hemingburgh concludes by saying that all that they could get from the
+      culprits was the exclamation, 'Quid potui ego?' Shortly after this
+      disaster the Prior and convent wrote to Edward II., excusing themselves
+      from granting a corrody owing to their great losses through the burning of
+      the monastery, as well as the destruction of their property by the Scots.
+      But Guisborough, next to Fountains, was almost the richest establishment
+      in Yorkshire, and thus in a few years' time there arose from the Norman
+      foundations a stately church and convent built in the Early Decorated
+      style.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Glimpses of the inner life of the priory are given in the Archbishop's
+      registers at York, which show how close and searching were the visitations
+      by the Archbishop in person or his commissioners, and one of the documents
+      throws light on the sad necessity for these inspections. It deals with
+      Archbishop Wickwaine's visit in 1280, and we find that the canons are
+      censured for many short-comings. They were not to go outside the cloister
+      after compline (the last service of the day) on the pretext of visiting
+      guests. They were not to keep expensive schools for rich or poor, unless
+      with special sanction. They were to turn out of the infirmary and punish
+      the persons lying there who were only pretending to be ill, and the really
+      sick were to be more kindly treated. There had evidently been
+      discrimination in the quality of food served out to certain persons in the
+      frater; but this was to be stopped, and food of one kind was to be divided
+      equally. A more strict silence was to be kept in the cloister, and no one
+      was to refrain from joining in the praises of God whilst in the choir.
+      There seems to have been much improper conversation among the canons, for
+      they are specially adjured in Christ to abstain from repeating immoral
+      stories. Some of the canons who had made themselves notorious for
+      quarrelling and caballing were to be debarred from promotion, and were
+      commended to the Prior and Subprior for punishment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In 1309 Simon Constable, a refractory canon of Bridlington, was sent to
+      Guisborough to undergo a course of penance, change of residence being
+      always considered to give an excellent opportunity for thorough reform.
+      However, in this case no good seems to have resulted, for about five years
+      later he was sent back to Bridlington with a worse character than before,
+      and, besides much prayer and humiliation, he was to receive a <i>disciplina</i>
+      every Friday at the hands of the Prior. This made no improvement in his
+      conduct, for in 1321 his behaviour brought him another penance and still
+      greater severity. A few years after this the Archbishop seems to have
+      reproached the community for the conduct of this unruly brother, which was
+      scarcely fair. The last vision of Simon Constable shows him to be as
+      impenitent as ever, and the Archbishop makes the awful threat that, if he
+      does not reform at once, he will be put in a more confined place than he
+      has ever been in before! Can this suggest that the wicked canon was to be
+      bricked up alive?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="026 (109K)" src="images/026.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These internal troubles were not, however, generally known to the outside
+      world, but the unfaltering searchlight of the records falls upon such
+      great folk as Peter de Mauley, fifth Baron Mulgrave, whose castle at
+      Mulgrave, near Whitby, is mentioned elsewhere; Lucy de Thweng, wife of Sir
+      William le Latimer; Sir Nicholas de Meynyl; and Katherine, wife of Sir
+      John Dentorp, whose conduct merely reflected the morals of medieval times.
+      It was, indeed, no uncommon event for the congregation to hear some
+      high-born culprit confessing his sins as he walked barefoot and scantily
+      clothed in the procession in York Minster. An exceedingly beautiful
+      crucifix of copper, richly gilded, was discovered during the early part of
+      last century, when some men were digging amongst the foundations of an old
+      building in Commondale. There seems little doubt that this was a cell or
+      chapel belonging to the monastery, for the crucifix bears the date 1119,
+      the year of the founding of Guisborough Priory. Another metal crucifix,
+      probably belonging to the thirteenth century, was discovered at Ingleby
+      Arncliffe. It was beautifully inlaid with brilliant white, green, red, and
+      blue enamels, and the figure of Christ was discovered to be hollow, and to
+      contain two ancient parchments, written in monkish Latin and scarcely
+      legible. One of them was a charm, addressed to 'ye elves, and demons and
+      all kind of apparition,' who were called upon in the name of the Trinity,
+      the Virgin Mary, the Apostles, Martyrs, Mark, Matthew, Luke, and John, and
+      the elect generally, to 'hurt not this servant of God, Adam Osanna, by
+      night nor by day, but that, through the very great mercy of God Jesus
+      Christ, by the help of Saint Mary, the mother of our Lord Jesus Christ, he
+      may rest in peace from all the aforesaid and other evils.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another intensely interesting relic of the great priory is the altar-tomb,
+      believed to be that of Robert de Brus of Annandale. The stone slabs are
+      now built into the walls on each side of the porch of Guisborough Church.
+      They may have been removed there from the abbey for safety at the time of
+      the dissolution. Hemingburgh, in his chronicle for the year 1294, says:
+      'Robert de Brus the fourth died on the eve of Good Friday; who disputed
+      with John de Balliol, before the King of England, about the succession to
+      the kingdom of Scotland. And, as he ordered when alive, he was buried in
+      the priory of Gysburn with great honour, beside his own father.' A great
+      number of other famous people were buried here in accordance with their
+      wills. Guisborough has even been claimed as the resting-place of Robert
+      Bruce, the champion of Scottish freedom, but there is ample evidence for
+      believing that his heart was buried at Melrose Abbey and his body in the
+      church of Dunfermline.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The memory of Mr. George Venables&mdash;that most excellent man who
+      devoted many years to gathering funds for a charity school in the town&mdash;is
+      preserved on a monument in the church. He had retired from business, but,
+      in order to find the means to start the school, he resumed his labours in
+      London, and devoted the whole of the profits to this useful object.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The central portion of the town of Guisborough, by the market-cross and
+      the two chief inns, is quaint and fairly picturesque, but the long street
+      as it goes westward deteriorates into rows of new cottages, inevitable in
+      a mining country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="027 (117K)" src="images/027.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mining operations have been carried on around Guisborough since the time
+      of Queen Elizabeth, for the discovery of alum dates from that period, and
+      when that industry gradually declined, it was replaced by the iron-mines
+      of to-day. Mr. Thomas Chaloner of Guisborough, in his travels on the
+      Continent about the end of the sixteenth century, saw the Pope's
+      alum-works near Rome, and was determined to start the industry in his
+      native parish of Guisborough, feeling certain that alum could be worked
+      with profit in his own county. As it was essential to have one or two men
+      who were thoroughly versed in the processes of the manufacture, Mr.
+      Chaloner induced some of the Pope's workmen by heavy bribes to come to
+      England. The risks attending this overt act were terrible, for the
+      alum-works brought in a large revenue to His Holiness, and the discovery
+      of such a design would have meant capital punishment to the offender. The
+      workmen were therefore induced to get into large casks, which were
+      secretly conveyed on board a ship that was shortly sailing for England.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When the Pope received the intelligence some time afterwards, he thundered
+      forth against Mr. Chaloner and the workmen the most awful and
+      comprehensive curse. They were to be cursed most wholly and thoroughly in
+      every part of their bodies, every saint was to curse them, and from the
+      thresholds of the holy church of God Almighty they were to be sequestered,
+      that they might 'be tormented, disposed of, and delivered over with Dathan
+      and Abiram, and with those who say unto the Lord God, "Depart from us; we
+      desire not to know Thy ways."'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Despite the fearful nature of the curse, the venture prospered so much
+      that the Darcy family, about the year 1600, set up another works in the
+      neighbourhood of Guisborough; and as this also brought considerable wealth
+      to the owners, a third was started at Sandsend in 1615. Many others
+      followed, and in 1649 Sir Hugh Cholmley started the works close to
+      Saltwick Nab, within a short distance of his house at Whitby. But although
+      there must have been more than twenty of these works in operation in the
+      eighteenth century, owing to cheaper methods of producing alum the
+      industry is now quite extinct in Cleveland.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The broad valley stretching from Guisborough to the sea contains the
+      beautifully wooded park of Skelton Castle. The trees in great masses cover
+      the gentle slopes on either side of the Skelton Beck, and almost hide the
+      modern mansion. The buildings include part of the ancient castle of the
+      Bruces, who were Lords of Skelton for many years. It is recorded that
+      Peter de Brus, one of the barons who helped to coerce John into signing
+      the Great Charter at Runnymede, made a curious stipulation when he granted
+      some lands at Leconfield to Henry Percy, his sister's husband. The
+      property was to be held on condition that every Christmas Day he and his
+      heirs should come to Skelton Castle and lead the lady by the arm from her
+      chamber to the chapel.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The old church of Upleatham, standing by the road to Saltburn, is a quaint
+      fragment of a Norman building. The tower, bearing the inscription 'William
+      Crow, Chvrchwarden Bvlded Stepel&mdash;1664,' is an addition to what is
+      probably only part of the nave of the little Norman building. It is now
+      used merely as a cemetery chapel, but it is picturesquely situated, and on
+      the north wall the carved Norman corbels may still be seen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH10" id="link2HCH10">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER IX<br />FROM PICKERING TO RIEVAULX ABBEY
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The broad Vale of Pickering, watered by the Derwent, the Rye, and their
+      many tributaries, is a wonderful contrast to the country we have been
+      exploring. The level pastures, where cattle graze and cornfields abound,
+      seem to suggest that we are separated from the heather by many leagues;
+      but we have only to look beyond the hedgerows to see that the horizon to
+      the north is formed by lofty moors only a few miles distant.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="028 (131K)" src="images/028.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Just where the low meadows are beginning to rise steadily from the vale
+      stands the town of Pickering, dominated by the lofty stone spire of its
+      parish church and by the broken towers of the castle. There is a wide
+      street, bordered by dark stone buildings, that leads steeply from the
+      river to the church. The houses are as a rule quite featureless, but we
+      have learnt to expect this in a county where stone is abundant, for only
+      the extremely old and the palpably new buildings stand Christ. Then comes
+      Herod's feast, with the King labelled <i>Herodi</i>. The guests are shown
+      with their arms on the table in the most curious positions, and all the
+      royal folk are wearing ermine. The coronation of the Virgin, the martyrdom
+      of St. Thomas a Becket, and the martyrdom of St. Edmund, who is perforated
+      with arrows, complete the series on the north side. Along the south wall
+      the paintings show the story of St. Catherine of Alexandria and the seven
+      Corporal Acts of Mercy. Further on come scenes from the life of our Lord.
+      There seems little doubt that all the paintings, including a number of
+      others in the transepts and elsewhere that are now destroyed, were
+      whitewashed over at the time of the Reformation, and it was during some
+      restoration work carried out in 1851 that indications of the paintings
+      were accidentally laid bare. When the whole of the walls had been cleaned,
+      careful coloured drawings were made, then colour wash was applied again,
+      and the priceless paintings disappeared for a generation. The objections
+      to what had been considered improper wall decoration for a parish church
+      in the nineteenth century having been reasoned away, the pictures once
+      more appeared, but in a very different condition to their first
+      resurrection. However, the drawings were in existence, so that a careful
+      restoration was possible, and as we see them to-day the subdued tones
+      closely follow the original colours.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The simple Norman arcade on the north side of the nave has plain round
+      columns and semicircular arches, but the south side belongs to later
+      Norman times, and has ornate columns and capitals. At least one member of
+      the great Bruce family, who had a house at Pickering called Bruce's Hall,
+      and whose ascendency at Guisborough has already been mentioned, was buried
+      here, for the figure of a knight in chain-mail by the lectern probably
+      represents Sir William Bruce. In the chapel there is a sumptuous monument
+      bearing the effigies of Sir David and Dame Margery Roucliffe. The knight
+      wears the collar of S.S., and his arms are on his surcoat.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When John Leland, the 'Royal Antiquary' employed by Henry VIII., came to
+      Pickering, he described the castle, which was in a more perfect state than
+      it is to-day. He says: 'In the first Court of it be a 4 Toures, of the
+      which one is Caullid Rosamunde's Toure.' Also of the inner court he writes
+      of '4 Toures, wherof the Kepe is one.' This keep and Rosamund's Tower, as
+      well as the ruins of some of the others, are still to be seen on the outer
+      walls, so that from some points of view the ruins are dignified and
+      picturesque. The area enclosed was large, and in early times the castle
+      must have been almost impregnable. But during the Civil War it was much
+      damaged by the soldiers quartered there, and Sir Hugh Cholmley took lead,
+      wood, and iron from it for the defence of Scarborough. The wide view from
+      the castle walls shows better than any description the importance of the
+      position it occupied, and we feel, as we gaze over the vale or northwards
+      to the moors, that this was the dominant power over the whole countryside.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Although Lastingham is not on the road to Helmsley, the few additional
+      miles will scarcely be counted when we are on our way to a church which,
+      besides being architecturally one of the most interesting in the county,
+      is perhaps unique in having at one time had a curate whose wife kept a
+      public house adjoining the church. Although this will scarcely be
+      believed, we have a detailed account of the matter in a little book
+      published in 1806.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="029 (131K)" src="images/029.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The clergyman, whose name was Carter, had to subsist on the slender salary
+      of £20 a year and a few surplice fees. This would not have allowed any
+      margin for luxuries in the case of a bachelor; but this poor man was
+      married, and he had thirteen children. He was a keen fisherman, and his
+      angling in the moorland streams produced a plentiful supply of fish&mdash;in
+      fact, more than his family could consume. But this, even though he often
+      exchanged part of his catches with neighbours, was not sufficient to keep
+      the wolf from the door, and drastic measures had to be taken. The parish
+      was large, and, as many of the people were obliged to come 'from ten to
+      fifteen miles' to church, it seemed possible that some profit might be
+      made by serving refreshments to the parishioners. Mrs. Carter
+      superintended this department, and it seems that the meals between the
+      services soon became popular. But the story of 'a parson-publican' was
+      soon conveyed to the Archdeacon of the diocese, who at the next visitation
+      endeavoured to find out the truth of the matter. Mr. Carter explained the
+      circumstances, and showed that, far from being a source of disorder, his
+      wife's public-house was an influence for good. 'I take down my violin,' he
+      continued, 'and play them a few tunes, which gives me an opportunity of
+      seeing that they get no more liquor than necessary for refreshment; and if
+      the young people propose a dance, I seldom answer in the negative;
+      nevertheless, when I announce time for return, they are ever ready to obey
+      my commands.' The Archdeacon appears to have been a broad-minded man, for
+      he did not reprimand Mr. Carter at all; and as there seems to have been no
+      mention of an increased stipend, the parson-publican must have continued
+      this strange anomaly.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is difficult to say whether the public-house was conducted in the crypt
+      beneath the church or not. I am inclined to think that Mrs. Carter's inn
+      was the present 'Blacksmith's Arms,' but there is distinct evidence for
+      stating that cock-fighting used to take place secretly in the crypt. The
+      writings of the Venerable Bede give a special interest to Lastingham, for
+      he tells us how King Oidilward requested Bishop Cedd to build a monastery
+      there. The Saxon buildings that appeared at that time have gone, so that
+      the present church cannot be associated with the seventh century. No doubt
+      the destruction was the work of the Danes, who plundered the whole of this
+      part of Yorkshire. The church that exists to-day is of Transitional Norman
+      date, and the beautiful little crypt, which has an apse, nave and aisles,
+      is coeval with the superstructure.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The situation of Lastingham in a deep and picturesque valley surrounded by
+      moors and overhung by woods is extremely rich.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Further to the west there are a series of beautiful dales, watered by
+      becks whose sources are among the Cleveland Hills. On our way to Ryedale,
+      the loveliest of these, we pass through Kirby Moorside, a little town
+      which has gained a place in history as the scene of the death of the
+      notorious George Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham, on April 17, 1687.
+      The house in which he died is on the south side of the King's Head, and in
+      one of the parish registers there is the entry under the date of April
+      19th, 'Gorges viluas, Lord dooke of Bookingam, etc.' Further down the
+      street stands an inn with a curious porch, supported by turned wooden
+      pillars, bearing the inscription:
+    </p>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p>
+        'Anno: Dom 1632 October xi William Wood'
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <p>
+      Kirkdale, with its world-renowned cave, to which we have already referred,
+      lies about two miles to the west. The quaint little Saxon church there is
+      one of the few bearing evidences of its own date, ascertained by the
+      discovery in 1771 of a Saxon sundial, which had survived under a layer of
+      plaster, and was also protected by the porch. A translation of the
+      inscription reads: 'Orm, the son of Gamal, bought St. Gregory's Minster
+      when it was all broken and fallen, and he caused it to be made anew from
+      the ground, for Christ and St. Gregory, in the days of King Edward and in
+      the days of Earl Tosti, and Hawarth wrought me and Brand the prior (priest
+      or priests).' By this we are plainly told that a church was built there in
+      the reign of Edward the Confessor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A pleasant road leads through Nawton to the beautiful little town of
+      Helmsley. A bend of the broad, swift-flowing Rye forms one boundary of the
+      place, and is fed by a gushing brook that finds its way from Rievaulx
+      Moor, and forms a pretty feature of the main street. The cottages in many
+      cases have preserved their thatched roofs, and have seldom more than one
+      story; but they invariably appear well preserved and carefully painted,
+      although these stone-built houses, with leaded casements, give little
+      scope for ornament. But the Helmsley folk have realized the importance of
+      white paint, and the window-frames, and even the strips of lead that hold
+      the glass together, are picked out in this cheerful fashion. In the broad
+      market-square the houses are large, but their gray respectability is
+      broken by creepers and some pleasant spots of colour. The corner nearest
+      to the church is particularly noticeable on account of a most picturesque
+      gabled house, with a timber-framed upper floor&mdash;a style of
+      construction exceedingly rare in these parts of Yorkshire. The old stone
+      cross, raised above its worn steps, stands in the open space close to the
+      modern market hall, and humbly allows the central position to be occupied
+      by a Gothic cross recently erected to the memory of the late Lord
+      Feversham, of Duncombe Park.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="030 (108K)" src="images/030.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A narrow turning by the market-house shows the torn and dishevelled
+      fragment of the keep of Helmsley Castle towering above the thatched roofs
+      in the foreground. The ruin is surrounded by tall elms, and from this
+      point of view, when backed by a cloudy sunset, makes a wonderful picture.
+      Like Scarborough, this stronghold was held for the King during the Civil
+      War. After the Battle of Marston Moor and the fall of York, Fairfax came
+      to Helmsley and invested the castle. He received a wound in the shoulder
+      during the siege; but the garrison having surrendered on honourable terms,
+      the Parliament ordered that the castle should be dismantled, and the
+      thoroughness with which the instructions were carried out remind one of
+      Knaresborough, for one side of the keep was blown to pieces by a terrific
+      explosion and nearly everything else was destroyed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All the beauty and charm of this lovely district is accentuated in
+      Ryedale, and when we have accomplished the three long uphill miles to
+      Rievaulx, and come out upon the broad grassy terrace above the abbey, we
+      seem to have entered a Land of Beulah. We see a peaceful valley overlooked
+      on all sides by lofty hills, whose steep sides are clothed with luxuriant
+      woods; we see the Rye flowing past broad green meadows; and beneath the
+      tree-covered precipice below our feet appear the solemn, roofless remains
+      of one of the first Cistercian monasteries established in this country.
+      There is nothing to disturb the peace that broods here, for the village
+      consists of a mere handful of old and picturesque cottages, and we might
+      stay on the terrace for hours, and, beyond the distant shouts of a few
+      children at play and the crowing of some cocks, hear nothing but the hum
+      of insects and the singing of birds. We take a steep path through the wood
+      which leads us down to the abbey ruins.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The magnificent Early English choir and the Norman transepts stand
+      astonishingly complete in their splendid decay, and the lower portions of
+      the nave, which, until 1922, lay buried beneath masses of grass-grown
+      débris, are now exposed to view. The richly-draped hill-sides appear as a
+      succession of beautiful pictures framed by the columns and arches on each
+      side of the choir. As they stand exposed to the weather, the perfectly
+      proportioned mouldings, the clustered pillars in a wonderfully good state
+      of preservation, and the almost uninjured celestory are more impressive
+      than in an elaborately-restored cathedral.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="031 (92K)" src="images/031.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+  <div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10795 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
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+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #10795 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/10795)
diff --git a/old/10795-8.txt b/old/10795-8.txt
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+Project Gutenberg's Yorkshire--Coast & Moorland Scenes, by Gordon Home
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Yorkshire--Coast & Moorland Scenes
+
+Author: Gordon Home
+
+Release Date: January 22, 2004 [EBook #10795]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YORKSHIRE--COAST & MOORLAND SCENES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Ted Garvin, Ginny Brewer and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+
+
+YORKSHIRE COAST AND MOORLAND SCENES
+
+Painted and Described
+
+By
+
+GORDON HOME
+
+_Second Edition_
+
+
+1907
+
+
+
+
+_First Edition published April 26, 1904
+Second Edition published April, 1907_
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+It may seem almost superfluous to explain that this book does not deal
+with the whole of Yorkshire, for it would obviously be impossible to get
+even a passing glimpse of such a great tract of country in a book of
+this nature. But I have endeavoured to give my own impressions of much
+of the beautiful coast-line, and also some idea of the character of the
+moors and dales of the north-east portion of the county.
+
+I have described the Dale Country in a companion volume to this,
+entitled 'Yorkshire Dales and Fells.'
+
+GORDON HOME.
+
+EPSOM, 1907.
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+  ACROSS THE MOORS FROM PICKERING TO WHITBY
+
+CHAPTER II
+  ALONG THE ESK VALLEY
+
+CHAPTER III
+  THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO REDCAR
+
+CHAPTER IV
+  THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO SCARBOROUGH
+
+CHAPTER V
+  SCARBOROUGH
+
+CHAPTER VI
+  WHITBY
+
+CHAPTER VII
+  THE CLEVELAND HILLS
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+  GUISBOROUGH AND THE SKELTON VALLEY
+
+CHAPTER IX
+  FROM PICKERING TO RIEVAULX ABBEY
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+  1. On Barnby Moor
+  2. Goathland Moor
+  3. An Autumn Scene on the Esk
+  4. Sleights Moor from Swart Houc Cross
+  5. A Stormy Afternoon
+  6. East Row, Sandsend
+  7. In Mulgrave Woods
+  8. Runswick Bay
+  9. A Sunny Afternoon at Runswick
+ 10. Sunrise from Staithes Beck
+ 11. Three Generations at Staithes
+ 12. Boulby Cliffs from Staithes Scaur
+ 13. The Coast at Saltburn
+ 14. Whitby Abbey from the Cliffs
+ 15. Robin Hood's Bay
+ 16. A Street in Robin Hood's Bay
+ 17. Scarborough Harbour and Castle
+ 18. Sunlight and Shadows in Whitby Harbour
+ 19. The Red Roofs of Whitby
+ 20. Evening at Whitby
+ 21. The Cleveland Hills from above Kildale
+ 22. Hutton Woods, near Guisborough
+ 23. A Wide Expanse of Heather seen from Great Ayton Moor
+ 24. A Golden Afternoon, Danby
+ 25. A Sunset from Danby Beacon
+ 26. An Autumn Day at Guisborough
+ 27. A Yorkshire Postman
+ 28. The Skelton Valley
+ 29. In Pickering Church
+ 30. The Market-place, Helmsley
+ 31. Rievaulx Abbey from 'The Terrace'
+
+_Map at end of volume_
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+ACROSS THE MOORS FROM PICKERING TO WHITBY
+
+
+The ancient stone-built town of Pickering is to a great extent the
+gateway to the moors of Northeastern Yorkshire, for it stands at the
+foot of that formerly inaccessible gorge known as Newton Dale, and is
+the meeting-place of the four great roads running north, south, east,
+and west, as well as of railways going in the same directions. And this
+view of the little town is by no means original, for the strategic
+importance of the position was recognised at least as long ago as the
+days of the early Edwards, when the castle was built to command the
+approach to Newton Dale and to be a menace to the whole of the Vale of
+Pickering.
+
+The old-time traveller from York to Whitby saw practically nothing of
+Newton Dale, for the great coach-road bore him towards the east, and
+then, on climbing the steep hill up to Lockton Low Moor, he went almost
+due north as far as Sleights. But to-day everyone passes right through
+the gloomy canyon, for the railway now follows the windings of Pickering
+Beck, and nursemaids and children on their way to the seaside may gaze
+at the frowning cliffs which seventy years ago were only known to
+travellers and a few shepherds. But although this great change has been
+brought about by railway enterprise, the gorge is still uninhabited, and
+has lost little of its grandeur; for when the puny train, with its
+accompanying white cloud, has disappeared round one of the great bluffs,
+there is nothing left but the two pairs of shining rails, laid for long
+distances almost on the floor of the ravine. But though there are steep
+gradients to be climbed, and the engine labours heavily, there is
+scarcely sufficient time to get any idea of the astonishing scenery from
+the windows of the train, and you can see nothing of the huge expanses
+of moorland stretching away from the precipices on either side. So that
+we, who would learn something of this region, must make the journey on
+foot; for a bicycle would be an encumbrance when crossing the heather,
+and there are many places where a horse would be a source of danger. The
+sides of the valley are closely wooded for the first seven or eight
+miles north of Pickering, but the surrounding country gradually loses
+its cultivation, at first gorse and bracken, and then heather, taking
+the place of the green pastures.
+
+At the village of Newton, perched on high ground far above the dale, we
+come to the limit of civilization. The sun is nearly setting. The
+cottages are scattered along the wide roadway and the strip of grass,
+broken by two large ponds, which just now reflect the pale evening sky.
+Straight in front, across the green, some ancient barns are thrown up
+against the golden sunset, and the long perspective of white road, the
+geese, and some whitewashed gables, stand out from the deepening tones
+of the grass and trees. A footpath by the inn leads through some dewy
+meadows to the woods, above Levisham Station in the valley below. At
+first there are glimpses of the lofty moors on the opposite side of the
+dale, where the sides of the bluffs are still glowing in the sunset
+light; but soon the pathway plunges steeply into a close wood, where the
+foxes are barking, and where the intense darkness is only emphasized by
+the momentary illumination given by lightning, which now and then
+flickers in the direction of Lockton Moor. At last the friendly little
+oil-lamps on the platform at Levisham Station appear just below, and
+soon the railway is crossed and we are mounting the steep road on the
+opposite side of the valley. What is left of the waning light shows the
+rough track over the heather to High Horcum. The huge shoulders of the
+moors are now majestically indistinct, and towards the west the browns,
+purples, and greens are all merged in one unfathomable blackness. The
+tremendous silence and the desolation become almost oppressive, but
+overhead the familiar arrangement of the constellations gives a sense of
+companionship not to be slighted. In something less than an hour a light
+glows in the distance, and, although the darkness is now complete, there
+is no further need to trouble ourselves with the thought of spending the
+night on the heather. The point of light develops into a lighted window,
+and we are soon stamping our feet on the hard, smooth road in front of
+the Saltersgate Inn. The door opens straight into a large stone-flagged
+room. Everything is redolent of coaching days, for the cheery glow of
+the fire shows a spotlessly clean floor, old high-backed settles, a gun
+hooked to one of the beams overhead, quaint chairs and oak stools, and a
+fox's mask and brush. A gamekeeper is warming himself at the fire, for
+the evening is chilly, and the firelight falls on his box-cloth gaiters
+and heavy boots, as we begin to talk of the loneliness and the dangers
+of the moors, and of the snowstorms in winter, that almost bury the low
+cottages and blot out all but the boldest landmarks. Soon we are
+discussing the superstitions which still survive among the simple
+country-folk, and the dark and lonely wilds we have just left make this
+a subject of great fascination.
+
+Although we have heard it before, we hear over again with intense
+interest the story of the witch who brought constant ill-luck to a
+family in these parts. Their pigs were never free from some form of
+illness, their cows died, their horses lamed themselves, and even the
+milk was so far under the spell that on churning-days the butter refused
+to come unless helped by a crooked sixpence. One day, when as usual they
+had been churning in vain, instead of resorting to the sixpence, the
+farmer secreted himself in an outbuilding, and, gun in hand, watched the
+garden from a small opening. As it was growing dusk he saw a hare coming
+cautiously through the hedge. He fired instantly, the hare rolled over,
+dead, and almost as quickly the butter came. That same night they heard
+that the old woman, whom they had long suspected of bewitching them, had
+suddenly died at the same time as the hare, and henceforward the farmer
+and his family prospered.
+
+In the light of morning the isolation of the inn is more apparent than
+at night. A compact group of stable buildings and barns stands on the
+opposite side of the road, and there are two or three lonely-looking
+cottages, but everywhere else the world is purple and brown with ling
+and heather. The morning sun has just climbed high enough to send a
+flood of light down the steep hill at the back of the barns, and we can
+hear the hum of the bees in the heather. In the direction of Levisham is
+Gallows Dyke, the great purple bluff we passed in the darkness, and a
+few yards off the road makes a sharp double bend to get up Saltersgate
+Brow, the hill that overlooks the enormous circular bowl of Horcum Hole,
+where Levisham Beck rises. The farmer whose buildings can be seen down
+below contrives to paint the bottom of the bowl a bright green, but the
+ling comes hungrily down on all sides, with evident longings to absorb
+the scanty cultivation. The Dwarf Cornel, a little mountain-plant which
+flowers in July, is found in this 'hole.' A few patches have been
+discovered in the locality, but elsewhere it is not known south of
+the Cheviots.
+
+Away to the north the road crosses the desolate country like a
+pale-green ribbon. It passes over Lockton High Moor, climbs to 700 feet
+at Tom Cross Rigg, and then disappears into the valley of Eller Beck, on
+Goathland Moor, coming into view again as it climbs steadily up to
+Sleights Moor, nearly 1,000 feet above the sea. An enormous stretch of
+moorland spreads itself out towards the west. Near at hand is the
+precipitous gorge of Upper Newton Dale, backed by Pickering Moor, and
+beyond are the heights of Northdale Rigg and Rosedale Common, with the
+blue outlines of Ralph Cross and Danby Head right on the horizon.
+
+The smooth, well-built road, with short grass filling the crevices
+between the stones, urges us to follow its straight course northwards;
+but the sternest and most remarkable portion of Upper Newton Dale lies
+to the left, across the deep heather, and we are tempted aside to reach
+the lip of the sinuous gorge nearly a mile away to the west, where the
+railway runs along the marshy and boulder-strewn bottom of a natural
+cutting 500 feet deep. The cliffs drop down quite perpendicularly for
+200 feet, and the remaining distance to the bed of the stream is a rough
+slope, quite bare in places, and in others densely grown over with
+trees; but on every side the fortress-like scarps are as stern and bare
+as any that face the ocean. Looking north or south the gorge seems
+completely shut in. There is much the same effect when steaming through
+the Kyles of Bute, for there the ship seems to be going full speed for
+the shore of an entirely enclosed sea, and here, saving for the
+tell-tale railway, there seems no way out of the abyss without scaling
+the perpendicular walls. The rocks are at their finest at Killingnoble
+Scar, where they take the form of a semicircle on the west side of the
+railway. The scar was for a very long period famous for the breed of
+hawks, which were specially watched by the Goathland men for the use of
+James I., and the hawks were not displaced from their eyrie even by the
+incursion of the railway into the glen, and only recently
+became extinct.
+
+Newton Dale Well, at the foot of the scar, used to attract the country
+people for miles round, to the fair held there on Midsummer Day, when
+strange ceremonies were performed in order to insure the beneficent
+influence of the waters. The custom survived until the beginning of last
+century, but now it is not easy to even find the position of the well.
+Very few people living in Whitby or Pickering had any idea of the
+grandeur of the scenery of Newton Dale when the first official journey
+was made by railway between the two towns. This was in 1836, but the
+coaches were drawn by horses on the levels and up the inclines, for it
+was before the days of the steam-locomotive.
+
+However, the opening of the line caused great enthusiasm and local
+excitement, necessitating the services of numbers of policemen to keep
+the people off the rails. When the separate coaches had been hauled to
+the highest part of the dale, the horses were detached, and the vehicles
+were joined up with connecting bars. Then the train was allowed to rush
+through the pass at what was considered the dangerous speed of twenty
+miles an hour. For the benefit of those who enjoyed the great pace, the
+driver allowed the train to go at thirty miles an hour, and then, to
+show his complete control over the carriages, he applied the brakes and
+came to a standstill on the steep gradient. But for the existence of the
+long, narrow ravine right through the heart of these lofty moors, we may
+reasonably doubt whether Whitby would ever have been joined with York
+other than by way of the coast-line to Scarborough.
+
+We can cross the line near Eller Beck, and, going over Goathland Moor,
+explore the wooded sides of Wheeldale Beck and its waterfalls. Mallyan's
+Spout is the most imposing, having a drop of about 76 feet. The village
+of Goathland has thrown out skirmishers towards the heather in the form
+of an ancient-looking but quite modern church, with a low central tower,
+and a little hotel, stone-built and fitting well into its surroundings.
+The rest of the village is scattered round a large triangular green, and
+extends down to the railway, where there is a station named after
+the village.
+
+The rolling masses of Sleights Moor rise up steeply towards the east,
+and from the coach-road to Whitby that we deserted at the Saltersgate
+Inn there is an enormous panorama over Eskdale, Whitby, and the sea.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+ALONG THE ESK VALLEY
+
+
+To see the valley of the Esk in its richest garb, one must wait for a
+spell of fine autumn weather, when a prolonged ramble can be made along
+the riverside and up on the moorland heights above. For the dense
+woodlands, which are often merely pretty in midsummer, become
+astonishingly lovely as the foliage draping the steep hillsides takes on
+its gorgeous colours, and the gills and becks on the moors send down a
+plentiful supply of water to fill the dales with the music of
+rushing streams.
+
+Climbing up the road towards Larpool, we take a last look at quaint old
+Whitby, spread out before us almost like those wonderful old prints of
+English towns they loved to publish in the eighteenth century. But
+although every feature is plainly visible--the church, the abbey, the
+two piers, the harbour, the old town and the new--the detail is all lost
+in that soft mellowness of a sunny autumn day. We find an enthusiastic
+photographer expending plates on this familiar view, which is sold all
+over the town; but we do not dare to suggest that the prints, however
+successful, will be painfully hackneyed, and we go on rejoicing that the
+questions of stops and exposures need not trouble us, for the world is
+ablaze with colour.
+
+Beyond the great red viaduct, whose central piers are washed by the
+river far below, the road plunges into the golden shade of the woods
+near Cock Mill, and then comes out by the river's bank down below, with
+the little village of Ruswarp on the opposite shore. The railway goes
+over the Esk just below the dam, and does its very best to spoil every
+view of the great mill built in 1752 by Mr. Nathaniel Cholmley. However,
+from the road towards Sleights the huge building looks picturesque
+enough, with the river flowing smoothly over the broad dam fringed by
+the delicate faded greens and browns of the trees. The mill, with its
+massive roof and projecting eaves, suggests in a most remarkable fashion
+one of the huge gate-houses of the Chinese Imperial Palace at Peking.
+
+The road follows close beside the winding river, and all the way to
+Sleights there are lovely glimpses of the shimmering waters, reflecting
+the overhanging masses of foliage. The golden yellow of a bush growing
+at the water's edge will be backed by masses of brown woods that here
+and there have retained suggestions of green, contrasted with the deep
+purple tones of their shadowy recesses. These lovely phases of Eskdale
+scenery are denied to the summer visitor, but there are few who would
+wish to have the riverside solitudes rudely broken into by the passing
+of boatloads of holiday-makers. Just before reaching Sleights Bridge we
+leave the tree-embowered road, and, going through a gate, find a
+stone-flagged pathway that climbs up the side of the valley with great
+deliberation, so that we are soon at a great height, with a magnificent
+sweep of landscape towards the south-west, and the keen air blowing
+freshly from the great table-land of Egton High Moor.
+
+A little higher, and we are on the road in Aislaby village. The steep
+climb from the river and railway has kept off those modern influences
+which have made Sleights and Grosmont architecturally depressing, and
+thus we find a simple village on the edge of the heather, with
+picturesque stone cottages and pretty gardens, free from companionship
+with the painfully ugly modern stone house, with its thin slate roof.
+The big house of the village stands on the very edge of the descent,
+surrounded by high trees now swept bare of leaves.
+
+The first time I visited Aislaby I reached the little hamlet when it was
+nearly dark. Sufficient light, however, remained in the west to show up
+the large house standing in the midst of the swaying branches. One dim
+light appeared in the blue-gray mass, and the dead leaves were blown
+fiercely by the strong gusts of wind. On the other side of the road
+stood an old gray house, whose appearance that gloomy evening well
+supported the statement that it was haunted. The classic front appeared
+behind an imposing gateway approached by a curious flat bridge across a
+circular pond which had a solid stone edging. The low parapets of the
+bridge were cut into a strange serpentine form. I gazed at the front of
+the house, backed by the dim outline of the moor beyond; but, though the
+place was silent enough, I could hear no strange sounds, and the windows
+remained black and impassive.
+
+I left the village in the gathering gloom and was soon out on the
+heather. Away on the left, but scarcely discernible, was Swart Houe
+Cross, on Egton Low Moor, and straight in front lay the Skelder Inn. A
+light gleamed from one of the lower windows, and by it I guided my
+steps, being determined to partake of tea before turning my steps
+homeward. I stepped into the little parlour, with its sanded floor, and
+demanded 'fat rascals' and tea. The girl was not surprised at my
+request, for the hot turf cakes supplied at the inn are known to all the
+neighbourhood by this unusual name, although they are not particularly
+fat, and are so extremely palatable that one would gladly call them by a
+friendlier name.
+
+But though the gloom of an autumn evening emphasizes the loneliness of
+the inn, it blots out the beautiful views which extend in every
+direction over dales and woodland, as well as the sea and moors. Whitby
+shows itself beyond the windmill as a big town dominated by a great
+rectangular building looking as much like a castle as an hotel, the
+abbey being less conspicuous from here than from most points of view.
+Northwards are the dense woods at Mulgrave, the coast as far as
+Kettleness, and the wide, almost limitless moors in the direction of
+Guisborough. The road to that ancient town goes straight up the hill
+past Swart Houe Cross, which forms the horizon in the picture reproduced
+as the frontispiece of this volume. Up on that high ground you can see
+right across the valley of the Esk in both directions. The course of the
+river itself is hidden by the shoulders of Egton Low Moor beneath us,
+but faint sounds of the shunting of trucks are carried up to the
+heights. Even when the deep valleys are warmest, and when their
+atmosphere is most suggestive of a hot-house, these moorland heights
+rejoice in a keen, dry air, which seems to drive away the slightest
+sense of fatigue, so easily felt on the lower levels, and to give in its
+place a vigour that laughs at distance. Up here, too, the whole world
+seems left to Nature, the levels of cultivation being almost out of
+sight, and anything under 800 feet seems low. Towards the end of August
+the heights are capped with purple, although the distant moors, however
+brilliant they may appear when close at hand, generally assume more
+delicate shades, fading into grays and blues on the horizon.
+
+But however much the moors may attract us, we started out with the
+intention of seeing something of Eskdale. We will therefore take a
+turning out of the Guisborough road, and go down the hill to Egton
+village, where there is a church with some Norman pillars and arches
+preserved from the rebuilding craze that despoiled Yorkshire of half its
+ecclesiastical antiquities. Making our way along the riverside to
+Grosmont, we come to the enormous heaps above the pits of the now
+disused iron-mines. This was the birthplace of the Cleveland Ironworks,
+and Grosmont was at one time more famous than Middlesbrough. The first
+cargo of ironstone was sent from here in 1836, when the Pickering and
+Whitby Railway was opened. However interesting Grosmont may sound in
+books, it is a dull place; for the knowledge that the name was
+originally Grandimont, from the small priory founded about 1200, and
+named after the abbey in Normandy to which it was attached, does not
+excite much interest when there is nothing to see but a farmhouse on the
+site, and the modern place consists of a railway-junction, some deserted
+mines, and many examples of the modern Yorkshire house.
+
+Everything that Nature can do to make amends for this uninteresting spot
+is lavishly squandered upon the valley, for wherever man has left things
+alone there are heavy canopies of foliage, and mossy boulders among the
+rushing streams; and if you will but take the trouble to climb up to the
+heather, even the mines are dwarfed into insignificance. We will go up
+the steep road to the top of Sleights Moor. It is a long stiff climb of
+nearly 900 feet, but the view is one of the very finest in this country,
+where wide expanses soon become commonplace. We are sufficiently high to
+look right across Fylingdales Moor to the sea beyond, a soft haze of
+pearly blue over the hard, rugged outline of the ling. Away towards the
+north, too, the landscape for many miles is limited only by the same
+horizon of sea, so that we seem to be looking at a section of a very
+large scale contour map of England. Below us on the western side runs
+the Mirk Esk, draining the heights upon which we stand as well as Egton
+High Moor and Wheeldale Moor. The confluence with the Esk at Grosmont is
+lost in a haze of smoke and a confusion of roofs and railway-lines; and
+the course of the larger river in the direction of Glaisdale is also
+hidden behind the steep slopes of Egton High Moor. Towards the south we
+gaze over a vast desolation, crossed by the coach-road to York as it
+rises and falls over the swells of the heather. The queer isolated cone
+of Blakey Topping and the summit of Gallows Dyke, close to Saltersgate,
+appear above the distant ridges.
+
+The route of the great Roman road from the South to Dunsley Bay can also
+be seen from these heights. It passes straight through Cawthorn Camp, on
+the ridge to the west of the village of Newton, and then runs along
+within a few yards of the by-road from Picketing to Egton. It crosses
+Wheeldale Beck, and skirts the ancient dyke round July or Julian Park,
+at one time a hunting-seat of the great De Mauley family. The road is
+about 12 feet wide, and is now deep in heather; but it is slightly
+raised above the general level of the ground, and can therefore be
+followed fairly easily where it has not been taken up to build walls for
+enclosures. Of greater antiquity, but much more easily discovered, are
+the bride stones close at hand on Sleights Moor. Several of the stones
+have fallen, but three of them are still standing erect, the tallest
+being 7 feet high. It is not easy to discover any particular form from
+the standing and recumbent stones, for they neither make a circle nor do
+they seem to be directed to any particular point of the compass; but it
+is quite possible that these monoliths were put up by Early Man as a
+means of recording the seasons, in somewhat the same manner as
+Stonehenge is an example of the orientated temple of Neolithic times.
+
+If we go down into the valley beneath us by a road bearing south-west,
+we shall find ourselves at Beck Hole, where there is a pretty group of
+stone cottages, backed by some tall firs. The Eller Beck is crossed by a
+stone bridge close to its confluence with the Mirk Esk. Above the
+bridge, a footpath among the huge boulders winds its way by the side of
+the rushing beck to Thomasin Foss, where the little river falls in two
+or three broad silver bands into a considerable pool. Great masses of
+overhanging rock, shaded by a leafy roof, shut in the brimming waters.
+
+It is not difficult to find the way from Beck Hole to the Roman camp on
+the hillside towards Egton Bridge. The Roman road from Cawthorn goes
+right through it, but beyond this it is not easy to trace, although
+fragments have been discovered as far as Aislaby, all pointing to
+Dunsley or Sandsend Bay. Round the shoulder of the hill we come down
+again to the deeply-wooded valley of the Esk. No river can be seen, but
+when we enter the shade of the trees the sound of many waters fills the
+air. What was once a thick green roof is now thin and yellow, and under
+our feet is a yielding carpet of soft brown and orange leaves. Rare and
+luxuriant mosses grow at the foot of the trees, on dead wood, and on the
+damp stones, and everywhere the rich woodland scent of decay meets the
+nostrils. In the midst of all these evidences of rampant natural
+conditions we come to Glaisdale End, where a graceful stone bridge of a
+single arch stands over the rushing stream. The initials of the builder
+and the date appear on the eastern side of what is now known as the
+Beggar's Bridge. It was formerly called Firris Bridge, after the
+builder, but the popular interest in the story of its origin seems to
+have killed the old name. If you ask anyone in Whitby to mention some of
+the sights of the neighbourhood, he will probably head his list with the
+Beggar's Bridge, but why this is so I cannot imagine. The woods are very
+beautiful, but this is a country full of the loveliest dales, and the
+presence of this single-arched bridge does not seem sufficient to have
+attracted so much popularity. I can only attribute it to the love
+interest associated with the beggar. He was, we may imagine, the
+Alderman Thomas Firris who, as a penniless youth, came to bid farewell
+to his betrothed, who lived somewhere on the opposite side of the river.
+Finding the stream impassable, he is said to have determined that if he
+came back from his travels as a rich man he would put up a bridge on the
+spot he had been prevented from crossing. It is not a very remarkable
+story, even if it be true, but it has given the bridge a fame scarcely
+proportionate to its merits.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO REDCAR
+
+
+Along the three miles of sand running northwards from Whitby at the foot
+of low alluvial cliffs, I have seen some of the finest sea-pictures on
+this part of the coast. But although I have seen beautiful effects at
+all times of the day, those that I remember more than any others are the
+early mornings, when the sun was still low in the heavens, when,
+standing on that fine stretch of yellow sand, one seemed to breathe an
+atmosphere so pure, and to gaze at a sky so transparent, that some of
+those undefined longings for surroundings that have never been realized
+were instinctively uppermost in the mind. It is, I imagine, that vague
+recognition of perfection which has its effect on even superficial minds
+when impressed with beautiful scenery, for to what other cause can be
+attributed the remark one hears, that such scenes 'make one feel good'?
+
+Heavy waves, overlapping one another in their fruitless bombardment of
+the smooth shelving sand, are filling the air with a ceaseless thunder.
+The sun, shining from a sky of burnished gold, throws into silhouette
+the twin lighthouses at the entrance to Whitby Harbour, and turns the
+foaming wave-tops into a dazzling white, accentuated by the long shadows
+of early day. Away to the north-west is Sandsend Ness, a bold headland
+full of purple and blue shadows, and straight out to sea, across the
+white-capped waves, are two tramp steamers, making, no doubt, for South
+Shields or some port where a cargo of coal can be picked up. They are
+plunging heavily, and every moment their bows seem to go down too far
+to recover.
+
+On mornings when the sea is quieter there are few who can resist the
+desire to plunge into the blue waters, for at seven o'clock the shore is
+so entirely deserted that one seems to be bathing from some primeval
+shore where no other forms of life may be expected than some giant
+crustaceans. This thought, perhaps, prompted the painful sensations I
+allowed to prey upon me one night when I was walking along this
+particular piece of shore from Whitby. I had decided to save time over
+the road to Sandsend by getting on to the beach at Upgang, where the
+lifeboat-house stands, by the entrance to a small beck. So dark was the
+night that I could scarcely be sure that I had not lost my way, until I
+had carefully felt the walls of the boat-house. Then I stepped
+cautiously on to the sand, which I discovered as soon as my feet began
+sinking at every step.
+
+The harbour lights of Whitby were bright enough, but in the other
+direction I could be sure of nothing. At first I seemed to have made a
+mistake as to the state of the tide, for there appeared to be a
+whiteness nearly up to the base of the cliffs; but this proved to be the
+suffused glow from the lighthouses. Rain had been falling heavily for
+the last few days, and had produced so many wide streams across the sand
+that my knowledge of the usual ones merely hampered me. At first I began
+stepping carefully over large black hollows in the sand, and then a
+great black mark would show itself, which, offering no resistance to my
+stick as I drew it across its surface, I could only imagine to be caused
+by a flood of ink poured upon the beach by some horrible squid. My
+musings on whether sea-monsters did ever disport themselves on the shore
+under the cover of sufficiently dark nights would be broken into by
+discovering that I had plunged into a stream of undiscoverable
+dimensions, whose existence only revealed itself by the splash of my
+boots. Retreating cautiously, I would take a run, and then a terrific
+leap into the darkness, sometimes finding myself on firm dry sand, and
+as frequently in the water.
+
+I had decided that I should probably not reach Sandsend until daylight,
+when a red lamp near the railway-bridge shone out as a beacon, and I
+realized that I would soon be safe from the tentacles of sea-monsters.
+
+When I awoke next morning, I dashed out on to the beach, and commenced
+to walk rapidly in the direction of Whitby, in the hope that the tide
+had left some of those black stains still showing. I wanted, also, to
+examine some of the queer ridges I had so often stepped over, and some
+of the rivers I had leapt. The rivers were there wide enough in places,
+but nothing in the way of a ridge or any signs of those inky patches
+could I discern. Careful examination showed, however, that here and
+there the smooth shore was covered with sand of a rather reddish hue,
+quite unworthy of remark in daylight. The foolishness of my
+apprehensions seems apparent, but nevertheless I urge everyone to choose
+a moonlit night and a companion of some sort for traversing these three
+miles after sunset.
+
+The two little becks finding their outlet at East Row and Sandsend are
+lovely to-day; but their beauty must have been much more apparent before
+the North-Eastern Railway put their black lattice girder bridges across
+the mouth of each valley. But now that familiarity with these bridges,
+which are of the same pattern across every wooded ravine up the
+coast-line to Redcar, has blunted my impressions, I can think of the
+picturesqueness of East Row without remembering the railway. It was in
+this glen, where Lord Normanby's lovely woods make a background for the
+pretty tiled cottages, the mill, and the old stone bridge, which make up
+East Row, that the Saxons chose a home for their god Thor. [Since this
+was written one or two new houses have been allowed to mar the
+simplicity of the valley.--G. H.] Here they built some rude form of
+temple, afterwards, it seems, converted into a hermitage. This was how
+the spot obtained the name Thordisa, a name it retained down to 1620,
+when the requirements of workmen from the newly-started alum-works at
+Sandsend led to building operations by the side of the stream. The
+cottages which arose became known afterwards as East Row.
+
+A very little way inland is the village of Dunsley, which may have been
+in existence in Roman times, for Ptolemy mentions Dunus Sinus as a bay
+frequently used by the Romans as a landing-place. The foundations of
+some ancient building can easily be traced in the rough grass at the
+village cross-roads, now overlooked by a new stone house. But whatever
+surprises Dunsley may have in store for those who choose to dig in the
+likely places, the hamlet need not keep one long, for on either hand
+there is a choice of breezy moorland or the astonishing beauties of
+Mulgrave Woods. Before I knew this part of Yorkshire, and had merely
+read of the woods as a sight to be visited from Whitby, I was prepared
+for something at least as hackneyed as Hayburn Wyke. I was prepared for
+direction-boards and artificial helps to the charms of certain aspects
+of the streams. I certainly never anticipated that I should one day sigh
+for a direction-board in this forest.
+
+It was on my second visit to the woods that I determined to find a
+particularly dramatic portion of one of the streams. My first ramble had
+been in summer. I had been with one who knew the paths well, but now it
+was late autumn and I was alone. I explored the paths for hours, and
+traversed long glades ablaze with red and gold. I peered down through
+the yellow leaves to the rushing streams below, where I could see the
+great moss-grown boulders choking the narrow channels. But this
+particular spot had gone. I was almost in despair, when two labourers by
+great luck happened to come along one of the tracks. With their help I
+found the place I was searching for, and the result of the time spent
+there is given in one of the illustrations to this chapter. Go where you
+will in Yorkshire, you will find no more fascinating woodland scenery
+than this. From the broken walls and towers of the old Norman castle the
+views over the ravines on either hand--for the castle stands on a lofty
+promontory in a sea of foliage--are entrancing; and after seeing the
+astoundingly brilliant colours with which autumn paints these trees,
+there is a tendency to find the ordinary woodland commonplace. The
+narrowest and deepest gorge is hundreds of feet deep in the shale. East
+Row Beck drops into this canyon in the form of a waterfall at the upper
+end, and then almost disappears among the enormous rocks strewn along
+its circumscribed course. The humid, hothouse atmosphere down here
+encourages the growth of many of the rarer mosses, which entirely cover
+all but the newly-fallen rocks.
+
+We can leave the woods by a path leading near Lord Normanby's modern
+castle, and come out on to the road close to Lythe Church, where a great
+view of sea and land is spread out towards the south. The long curving
+line of white marks the limits of the tide as far as the entrance to
+Whitby Harbour. The abbey stands out in its loneliness as of yore, and
+beyond it are the black-looking, precipitous cliffs ending at Saltwick
+Nab. Lythe Church, standing in its wind-swept graveyard full of
+blackened tombstones, need not keep us, for, although its
+much-modernized exterior is simple and ancient-looking, the interior is
+devoid of any interest. It is the same tale at nearly every village in
+this district, and to those who are able to grow enthusiastic in
+antiquarian matters some parts of the county are disappointing. In East
+Anglia and the southern counties even the smallest hamlets have often a
+good church, with a conspicuous tower or spire; but in how many villages
+in this riding do you find no church at all, as in the case of Staithes
+and Runswick? Many of the old churches of Yorkshire were in a state of
+great dilapidation at the beginning of last century, and a great effort
+having been initiated by the then Archbishop, a fund was instituted to
+help the various parishes to restore their buildings. It was a period
+when architecture was at a low ebb, and the desire to sweep away
+antiquity was certainly strong, for those churches not rebuilt from the
+ground were so hacked and renovated that their interest and
+picturesqueness has vanished. The churches at Pickering, Middleton,
+Lastingham, and Kirkdale must, however, be pointed out as priceless
+exceptions.
+
+The road drops down a tremendous hill into Sandsend, where they talk of
+going 'up t' bonk' to Lythe Church. A little chapel of ease in the
+village accommodates the old and delicate folk, but the youth and the
+generally able-bodied of Sandsend must climb the hill every Sunday. The
+beck forms an island in the village, and the old stone cottages, bright
+with new paint and neatly-trained creepers, stand in their gardens on
+either side of the valley in the most picturesque fashion.
+
+The walk along the rocky shore to Kettleness is dangerous unless the
+tide is carefully watched, and the road inland through Lythe village is
+not particularly interesting, so that one is tempted to use the railway,
+which cuts right through the intervening high ground by means of two
+tunnels. The first one is a mile long, and somewhere near the centre has
+a passage out to the cliffs, so that even if both ends of the tunnel
+collapsed there would be a way of escape. But this is small comfort when
+travelling from Kettleness, for the down gradient towards Sandsend is
+very steep, and in the darkness of the tunnel the train gets up a
+tremendous speed, bursting into the open just where a precipitous drop
+into the sea could be most easily accomplished.
+
+The station at Kettleness is on the top of the huge cliffs, and to reach
+the shore one must climb down a zigzag path. It is a broad and solid
+pathway until halfway down, where it assumes the character of a
+goat-track, being a mere treading down of the loose shale of which the
+enormous cliff is formed. The sliding down of the crumbling rock
+constantly carries away the path, but a little spade-work soon makes the
+track firm again. This portion of the cliff has something of a history,
+for one night in 1829 the inhabitants of many of the cottages originally
+forming the village of Kettleness were warned of impending danger by
+subterranean noises. Fearing a subsidence of the cliff, they betook
+themselves to a small schooner lying in the bay. This wise move had not
+long been accomplished, when a huge section of the ground occupied by
+the cottages slid down the great cliff and the next morning there was
+little to be seen but a sloping mound of lias shale at the foot of the
+precipice. The villagers recovered some of their property by digging,
+and some pieces of broken crockery from one of the cottages are still to
+be seen on the shore near the ferryman's hut, where the path joins
+the shore.
+
+This sandy beach, lapped by the blue waves of Runswick Bay, is one of
+the finest spots on the rocky coast-line of Yorkshire. A trickling
+waterfall drops perpendicularly down the blackish rocks from a
+considerable height, while above it are the towering cliffs of shale,
+perfectly bare in one direction, and clothed with grass and bracken in
+another. At the foot of the rocks a layer of jet appears a few inches
+above the sand.
+
+You look northwards across the sunlit sea to the rocky heights hiding
+Port Mulgrave and Staithes, and on the further side of the bay you see
+tiny Runswick's red roofs, one above the other, on the face of the
+cliff. Here it is always cool and pleasant in the hottest weather, and
+from the broad shadows cast by the precipices above one can revel in the
+sunny land and sea-scapes without that fishy odour so unavoidable in the
+villages. When the sun is beginning to climb down the sky in the
+direction of Hinderwell, and everything is bathed in a glorious golden
+light, the ferryman will row you across the bay to Runswick, but a
+scramble over the rocks on the beach will be repaid by a closer view of
+the now half-filled-up Hob Hole. The fisher-folk believed this cave to
+be the home of a kindly-disposed fairy or hob, who seems to have been
+one of the slow-dying inhabitants of the world of mythology implicitly
+believed in by the Saxons. And these beliefs died so hard in these
+lonely Yorkshire villages that until recent times a mother would carry
+her child suffering from whooping-cough along the beach to the mouth of
+the cave. There she would call in a loud voice, 'Hob-hole Hob! my
+bairn's gotten t'kink cough. Tak't off, tak't off.' One can see the
+child's parents gazing fearfully into the black depths of the cavern,
+penetrating the cliff for 70 feet, and finally turning back to the
+village in the full belief that the hob would stay the disease.
+
+The steep paths and flights of roughly-built steps that wind above and
+below the cottages are the only means of getting about in Runswick. The
+butcher's cart every Saturday penetrates into the centre of the village
+by the rough track which is all that is left of the good firm road from
+Hinderwell after it has climbed down the cliff. To this central
+position, close to the post-box, the householders come to buy their
+supply of meat for Sunday, having their purchases weighed on scales
+placed on the flap at the back of the cart. While the butcher is doing
+his thriving trade the postman arrives to collect letters from the
+pillar-box, Placing a small horn to his lips, he blows a blast to warn
+the villagers that the post is going, and, having waited for the last
+letter, climbs slowly up the steep pathway to Hinderwell.
+
+Halfway up to the top he pauses and looks over the fruit-trees and the
+tiles and chimney-pots below him, to the bright blue waters of the bay,
+with Kettleness beyond, now all pink and red in the golden light of late
+afternoon. This scene is more suggestive of the Mediterranean than
+Yorkshire, for the blueness of the sea seems almost unnatural, and the
+golden greens of the pretty little gardens among the houses seem perhaps
+a trifle theatrical; but the fisher-folk play their parts too well, and
+there is nothing make-believe about the delicious bread-and-butter and
+the newly-baked cakes which accompany the tea awaiting us in a
+spotlessly clean cottage close by.
+
+The same form of disaster which destroyed Kettleness village caused the
+complete ruin of Runswick in 1666, for one night, when some of the
+fisher-folk were holding a wake over a corpse, they had unmistakable
+warnings of an approaching landslip. The alarm was given, and the
+villagers, hurriedly leaving their cottages, saw the whole place slide
+downwards and become a mass of ruins. No lives were lost, but, as only
+one house remained standing, the poor fishermen were only saved from
+destitution by the sums of money collected for their relief.
+
+Architecturally speaking, Hinderwell is a depressing village, and there
+is little to remember about the place except an extraordinary block of
+two or three shops, suitable only for a business street in a big city,
+but dumped right into the middle of this village of low cottages. The
+church is modern enough to be uninteresting, but in the graveyard St.
+Hilda's Well, from which the name Hinderwell is a corruption, may
+still be seen.
+
+In 1603 there was a sudden and terrible outbreak of plague in the
+village. It only lasted from September 1 to November 10, but in that
+short time forty-nine people died. It seems that the infection was
+brought by some men from a 'Turkey ship' that had been stranded on the
+coast, but, strangely enough, the disease does not appear to have been
+carried into the other villages in the neighbourhood.
+
+Scarcely two miles from Hinderwell is the fishing-hamlet of Staithes,
+wedged into the side of a deep and exceedingly picturesque beck.
+Here--and it is the same at Runswick--one is obliged to walk warily
+during the painter's season, for fear of either obstructing the view of
+the man behind the easel you have just passed, or out of regard for the
+feelings of some girls just in front. There are often no more chances of
+standing still in Staithes than may be enjoyed on a popular golf-links
+on a fine Saturday afternoon. These folk at Staithes do not disturb one
+with cries of 'Fore!' but with that blank Chinaman's stare which comes
+to anyone who paints in public.
+
+The average artist is a being who is quite unable to recognise
+architectural merit. He sees everything to please him if the background
+of his group be sufficiently tumble-down and derelict. If this be
+incorrect, how could such swarms of artistic folk paint and actually
+lodge in Staithes? The steep road leading past the station drops down
+into the village, giving a glimpse of the beck crossed by its ramshackle
+wooden foot-bridge--the view one has been prepared for by guide-books
+and picture postcards. Lower down you enter the village street. Here the
+smell of fish comes out to greet you, and one would forgive the place
+this overflowing welcome if one were not so shocked at the dismal aspect
+of the houses on either side of the way. Many are of comparatively
+recent origin, others are quite new, and a few--a very few--are old; but
+none have any architectural pretensions or any claims to
+picturesqueness, and only a few have the neat and respectable look one
+is accustomed to expect after seeing Robin Hood's Bay.
+
+Staithes had filled me with so much pleasant expectancy that my first
+walk down this street of dirty, ugly houses had brought me into a
+querulous frame of mind, and I wondered irritably why the women should
+all wear lilac-coloured bonnets, when a choice of colour is not
+difficult as far as calico is concerned. Those women who were in
+mourning had dyed theirs black, and these assorted well with the colour
+of the stone of many of the houses.
+
+I hurried down on to the little fish-wharf--a wooden structure facing
+the sea--hoping to find something more cheering in the view of the
+little bay, with its bold cliffs, and the busy scene where the cobles
+were drawn up on the shingle. Here my spirits revived, and I began to
+find excuses for the painters. The little wharf, in a bad state of
+repair, like most things in the place, was occupied by groups of
+stalwart fisher-folk, men and women.
+
+The men were for the most part watching their women-folk at work. They
+were also to an astonishing extent mere spectators in the arduous work
+of hauling the cobles one by one on to the steep bank of shingle. A
+tackle hooked to one of the baulks of timber forming the staith was
+being hauled at by five women and two men! Two others were in a listless
+fashion leaning their shoulders against the boat itself. With the last
+'Heave-ho!' at the shortened tackle the women laid hold of the nets, and
+with casual male assistance laid them out on the shingle, removed any
+fragments of fish, and generally prepared them for stowing in the
+boat again.
+
+It is evidently an accepted state of things at Staithes that the work of
+putting out to sea and the actual catching of the fish is sufficient for
+the men-folk, for the feminine population do their arduous tasks with a
+methodical matter-of-factness which surprises only the stranger. I was
+particularly struck on one occasion with the sight of a good-looking and
+very neatly dressed young fishwife who was engaged in that very
+necessary but exceedingly unpleasant task of cutting open fish and
+removing the perishable portions. With unerring precision the sharp
+knife was plunged into each cod or haddock, and the fish was in its
+marketable condition in shorter time than one can write. A little boy
+plunged them into a pail of ruddy-looking water, and from thence into
+the regulation fish box or basket that finds its way to the Metropolis.
+
+A change has come over the inhabitants of Staithes since 1846, when Mr.
+Ord describes the fishermen as 'exceedingly civil and courteous to
+strangers, and altogether free from that low, grasping knavery peculiar
+to the larger class of fishing-towns.' Without wishing to be
+unreasonably hard on Staithes, I am inclined to believe that this
+character is infinitely better than these folk deserve, and even when
+Mr. Ord wrote of the place I have reason to doubt the civility shown by
+them to strangers. It is, according to some who have known Staithes for
+a long while, less than fifty years ago that the fisher-folk were
+hostile to a stranger on very small provocation, and only the entirely
+inoffensive could expect to sojourn in the village without being a
+target for stones. The incursion of the artistic hordes has been a great
+factor in the demoralization of the village, for who would not be
+mercenary when besought at all hours of the day to stand before a canvas
+or a camera? Thus, the harmless stranger who strays on to the staith
+with a camera is obliged to pay for 'an afternoon's 'baccy' if he want
+an opportunity to obtain more than a snapshot of a picturesque group. He
+may try to capture a lonely old fisherman by asking if he would mind
+standing still for 'just one second,' but the old fellow will move away
+instantly unless his demand for payment be readily complied with.
+
+No doubt many of the superstitions of Staithes people have languished or
+died out in recent years, and among these may be included a particularly
+primitive custom when the catches of fish had been unusually small. Bad
+luck of this sort could only be the work of some evil influence, and to
+break the spell a sheep's heart had to be procured, into which many pins
+were stuck. The heart was then burnt in a bonfire on the beach, in the
+presence of the fishermen, who danced round the flames.
+
+In happy contrast to these heathenish practices was the resolution
+entered into and signed by the fishermen of Staithes, in August, 1835,
+binding themselves 'on no account whatever' to follow their calling on
+Sundays, 'nor to go out with our boats or cobbles to sea, either on the
+Saturday or Sunday evenings.' They also agreed to forfeit ten shillings
+for every offence against the resolution, and the fund accumulated in
+this way, and by other means, was administered for the benefit of aged
+couples and widows and orphans.
+
+The men of Staithes are known up and down the east coast of Great
+Britain as some of the very finest types of fishermen. Their cobles,
+which vary in size and colour, are uniform in design and the brilliance
+of their paint. Brick red, emerald green, pungent blue and white, are
+the most favoured colours, but orange, pink, yellow, and many others,
+are to be seen.
+
+Not only are fish of the present age in evidence at Staithes, but
+nowhere along this coast can one find better examples of those of the
+Jurassic period. When the tide has exposed the scaur which runs out from
+Colburn Nab, at the mouth of the beck, a one can examine masses of
+recently fallen rocks, the new faces of which are almost invariably
+covered with ammonites or clusters of fossil bivalves. The only
+hindrance to a close examination of these new falls from the cliffs is
+the serious danger of another fall occurring at the same spot. The
+fisher-folk are very kind in pointing out this peril to ardent
+geologists and those of a less scientific outlook, who merely enjoy the
+exercise of scrambling over great masses of rock. After having been
+warned that most of the face of the cliff above is 'qualified' to come
+down at any moment, there is a strong inclination to betake one's self
+to a safe distance, where, unfortunately, the wear and tear of the waves
+have in most cases so battered the traces of early marine life that
+there is little to attack with the hammer to compare with what can be
+seen in the new falls. The scaur also presents an interesting feature in
+its round ironstone nodules, half embedded in the smooth rocky floor.
+
+Looking northwards there is a grand piece of coast scenery. The masses
+of Boulby Cliffs, rising 660 feet from the sea, are the highest on the
+Yorkshire coast. The waves break all round the rocky scaur, and fill the
+air with their thunder, while the strong wind blows the spray into
+beards which stream backwards from the incoming crests.
+
+The upper course of Staithes Beck consists of two streams, flowing
+through deep, richly-wooded ravines. They follow parallel courses very
+close to one another for three or four miles, but their sources extend
+from Lealholm Moor to Wapley Moor. Kilton Beck runs through another
+lovely valley densely clothed in trees, and full of the richest woodland
+scenery. It becomes more open in the neighbourhood of Loftus, and from
+thence to the sea at Skinningrove the valley is green and open to the
+heavens. Loftus is on the borders of the Cleveland mining district, and
+it is for this reason that the town has grown to a considerable size.
+But although the miners' new cottages are unpicturesque, and the church
+only dates from 1811, the situation is pretty, owing to the profusion of
+trees among the houses. Skinningrove has railway-sidings and
+branch-lines running down to it, and on the hill above the cottages
+stands a cluster of blast-furnaces. In daylight they are merely ugly,
+but at night, with tongues of flame, they speak of the potency of
+labour. I can still see that strange silhouette of steel cylinders and
+connecting girders against a blue-black sky, with silent masses of flame
+leaping into the heavens.
+
+It was long before iron-ore was smelted here, before even the old
+alum-works had been started, that Skinningrove attained to some sort of
+fame through a wonderful visit, as strange as any of those recounted by
+Mr. Wells. It was in the year 1535--for the event is most carefully
+recorded in a manuscript of the period--that some fishermen of
+Skinningrove caught a Sea Man. This was such an astounding fact to
+record that the writer of the old manuscript explains that 'old men that
+would be loath to have their credyt crackt by a tale of a stale date,
+report confidently that ... a _sea-man_ was taken by the fishers.' They
+took him up to an old disused house, and kept him there for many weeks,
+feeding him on raw fish, because he persistently refused the other sorts
+of food offered him. To the people who flocked from far and near to
+visit him he was very courteous, and he seems to have been particularly
+pleased with any 'fayre maydes' who visited him, for he would gaze at
+them with a very earnest countenance, 'as if his phlegmaticke breaste
+had been touched with a sparke of love.' The Sea Man was so well behaved
+that the fisher-folk began to feel sufficiently sure of his desire to
+live with them to cease to keep watch on his movements. 'One day,' we
+are told, 'he prively stoale out of Doores, and ere he coulde be
+overtaken recovered the sea, whereinto he plunged himself; yet as one
+that woulde not unmanerly depart without taking of his leave, from the
+mydle upwardes he raysed his shoulders often above the waves, and
+makinge signes of acknowledgeing his good enterteinment to such as
+beheld him on the shore, as they interpreted yt;--after a pretty while
+he dived downe and appeared no more.'
+
+This strangely detailed account says that instead of a voice the Sea Man
+'skreaked,' but this is of small interest compared to whether he had a
+tail or any fish-like attributes. The fact that he escaped would suggest
+the presence of legs, but the historian is silent on this
+all-important matter.
+
+The lofty coast-line we have followed all the way from Sandsend
+terminates abruptly at Huntcliff Nab, the great promontory which is
+familiar to visitors to Saltburn. Low alluvial cliffs take the place of
+the rocky precipices, and the coast becomes flatter and flatter as you
+approach Redcar and the marshy country at the mouth of the Tees. The
+original Saltburn, consisting of a row of quaint fishermen's cottages,
+still stands entirely alone, facing the sea on the Huntcliff side of the
+beck, and from the wide, smooth sands there is little of modern Saltburn
+to be seen besides the pier. For the rectangular streets and blocks of
+houses have been wisely placed some distance from the edge of the grassy
+cliffs, leaving the sea-front quite unspoiled. It would, perhaps, be
+well to own that I have never seen Saltburn during the summer season,
+and for this reason I may think better of the resort than if my visit
+had been in midsummer. It was during October. The sun was shining
+brightly, and a strong wind was blowing off the land. The wide,
+new-looking streets were spotlessly clean, and in most of them there was
+no sign of life at all. It was the same on the broad sweep of sands, for
+when I commenced a drawing on the cliffs the only living creatures I
+could see were two small dogs. About noon a girls' school was let loose
+upon the sands, and for half an hour a furious game of hockey was
+fought. Then I was left alone again, with the great expanse of sea, the
+yellow margin of sand, and the reddish-brown cliffs, all beneath the
+wind-swept sky.
+
+The elaborately-laid-out gardens on the steep banks of Skelton Beck are
+the pride and joy of Saltburn, for they offer a pleasant contrast to the
+bare slopes on the Huntcliff side and the flat country towards
+Kirkleatham. But in this seemingly harmless retreat there used to be
+heard horrible groanings, and I have no evidence to satisfy me that they
+have altogether ceased. For in this matter-of-fact age such a story
+would not be listened to, and thus those who hear the sounds may be
+afraid to speak of them. The groanings were heard, they say, 'when all
+wyndes are whiste and the sea restes unmoved as a standing poole.' At
+times they were so loud as to be heard at least six miles inland, and
+the fishermen feared to put out to sea, believing that the ocean was 'as
+a greedy Beaste raginge for Hunger, desyers to be satisfyed with men's
+carcases.' There were also at that time certain rocks towards Huntcliff
+Nab, left bare at low-tide, where 'Seales in greate Heardes like Swine'
+were to be seen basking in the sun. 'For their better scuritye,' says
+the old writer, 'they put in use a kind of military discipline, warily
+preparing against a soddaine surprize, for on the outermost Rocke one
+great Seale or more keepes sentinell, which upon the first inklinge of
+any danger, giveth the Alarme to the rest by throweing of Stones, or
+making a noise in the water, when he tumbles down from the Rocke, the
+rest immediately doe the like, insomuch that yt is very hard to overtake
+them by cunning.'
+
+In 1842 Redcar was a mere village, though more apparent on the map than
+Saltburn; but, like its neighbour, it has grown into a great
+watering-place, having developed two piers, a long esplanade other
+features, which I am glad to leave to those for whom they were made, and
+betake myself to the more romantic spots so plentiful in this
+broad county.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO SCARBOROUGH
+
+
+Although it is only six miles as the crow flies from Whitby to Robin
+Hood's Bay, the exertion required to walk there along the top of the
+cliffs is equal to quite double that distance, for there are so many
+gullies to be climbed into and crawled out of that the measured distance
+is considerably increased. It is well to remember this, for otherwise
+the scenery of the last mile or two may not seem as fine as the
+first stages.
+
+As soon as the abbey and the jet-sellers are left behind, you pass a
+farm, and come out on a great expanse of close-growing smooth turf,
+where the whole world seems to be made up of grass and sky. The footpath
+goes close to the edge of the cliff; in some places it has gone too
+close, and has disappeared altogether. But these diversions can be
+avoided without spoiling the magnificent glimpses of the rock-strewn
+beach nearly 200 feet below. From above Saltwick Bay there is a grand
+view across the level grass to Whitby Abbey, standing out alone on the
+green horizon. Down below, Saltwick Nab runs out a bare black arm into
+the sea, which even in the calmest weather angrily foams along the
+windward side. Beyond the sturdy lighthouse that shows itself a dazzling
+white against the hot blue of the heavens commence the innumerable
+gullies. Each one has its trickling stream, and bushes and low trees
+grow to the limits of the shelter afforded by the ravines; but in the
+open there is nothing higher than the waving corn or the stone walls
+dividing the pastures--a silent testimony to the power of the north-east
+wind. The village of Hawsker, with its massive though modern church, can
+be seen across the fields towards the west, but it does not offer
+sufficient attractions to divert you from the cliffs, unless you have a
+desire to see in one or two of the fields, gateways and rubbing-posts
+formed of whales' jaws, suggestive of the days when Whitby carried on a
+thriving trade with the great cetaceans. To enjoy this magnificent coast
+scenery, there must be plenty of time to linger in those places where it
+seems impossible not to fling yourself on the long brown grass and
+listen to the droning of insects and the sound of the waves down below.
+At certain times of the day the most striking colours are seen among the
+sunlit rocks, and the boldness of the outlines of overhanging strata and
+great projecting shoulders are a continual surprise.
+
+After rounding the North Cheek, the whole of Robin Hood's Bay is
+suddenly laid before you. I well remember my first view of the wide
+sweep of sea, which lay like a blue carpet edged with white, and the
+high escarpments of rock that were in deep purple shade, except where
+the afternoon sun turned them into the brightest greens and umbers.
+Three miles away, but seemingly very much closer, was the bold headland
+of the Peak, and more inland was Stoupe Brow, with Robin Hood's Butts on
+the hill-top. The fable connected with the outlaw is scarcely worth
+repeating, but on the site of these butts urns have been dug up, and are
+now to be found in Scarborough Museum. The Bay Town is hidden away in a
+most astonishing fashion, for, until you have almost reached the two
+bastions which guard the way up from the beach, there is nothing to be
+seen of the charming old place. If you approach by the road past the
+railway-station it is the same, for only garishly new hotels and villas
+are to be seen on the high ground, and not a vestige of the fishing-town
+can be discovered. But the road to the bay at last begins to drop down
+very steeply, and the first old roofs appear. The path at the side of
+the road develops into a very long series of steps, and in a few minutes
+the narrow street, flanked by very tall houses, has swallowed you up.
+
+Everything is very clean and orderly, and, although most of the houses
+are very old, they are generally in a good state of repair, exhibiting
+in every case the seaman's love of fresh paint. Thus, the dark and worn
+stone walls have bright eyes in their newly-painted doors and windows.
+Over their doorsteps the fishermen's wives are quite fastidious, and you
+seldom see a mark on the ochre-coloured hearthstone with which the women
+love to brighten the worn stones. Even the scrapers are sleek with
+blacklead, and it is not easy to find a window without spotlessly clean
+curtains. The little coastguard station by the opening on to the shore
+has difficulty in showing itself superior to the rest in these essential
+matters of smartness. However, the coastguards glory in a little stone
+pathway protected by a low wall in front of their building. On this
+narrow quarter-deck the men love to walk to and fro, just as though they
+were afloat and were limited to this space for exercise. At high-tide
+the sea comes halfway up the steep opening between the coastguards'
+quarters and the inn which is built on another bastion, and in rough
+weather the waves break hungrily on to the strong stone walls, for the
+bay is entirely open to the full force of gales from the east or
+north-east. All the way from Scarborough to Whitby the coast offers no
+shelter of any sort in heavy weather, and many vessels have been lost on
+the rocks. On one occasion a small sailing-ship was driven right into
+this bay at high-tide, and the bowsprit smashed into a window of the
+little hotel that occupied the place of the present one.
+
+With angry seas periodically demolishing the outermost houses, it seems
+almost unaccountable that the little town should have persisted in
+clinging so tenaciously to the high-water mark; but there were probably
+two paramount reasons for this. The deep gully was to a great extent
+protected from the force of the winds, and, as it was soon quite brimful
+of houses, every inch of space was valuable; then, smuggling was freely
+practised along the coast, and the more the houses were wedged together,
+the more opportunities for secret hiding-places would be afforded. The
+whole town has a consciously guilty look in its evident desire to
+conceal itself; and the steep narrow streets, the curious passages where
+it is scarcely possible for two people to pass, and the little courts
+which look like culs-de-sac but have a hidden flight of steps leading
+down to another passage, seem to be purposely intricate and confusing.
+For I can imagine a revenue cutter chasing a boat into Robin Hood's Bay,
+and I can see the smugglers hastily landing on the beach and making for
+the town, followed by the Excise officers, who are as unable to trace
+the men as though they had been chasing rabbits in a warren. The stream
+that made this retreat for the fishing-town is now scarcely more than a
+drain when it reaches the houses, for, after passing along the foot of a
+great perpendicular mass of shale, it rushes into a tunnel, and only
+appears again on the shore.
+
+It is strange that there should be so little information as to the
+associations of Robin Hood with this fishing-village. The stories of his
+shooting an arrow to determine where he should make his headquarters
+sound improbable, although his keeping one or two small ships in the bay
+ready for making his escape if suddenly attacked seems a rational
+precaution, and if only there were a little more evidence outside the
+local traditions to go upon, it would be pleasant to let the imagination
+play upon the wild life led by the outlawed Earl of Huntingdon in this
+then inaccessible coast region.
+
+The railway southwards takes a curve inland, and, after winding in and
+out to make the best of the contour of the hills, the train finally
+steams very heavily and slowly into Ravenscar Station, right over the
+Peak and 630 feet above the sea. On the way you get glimpses of the
+moors inland, and grand views over the curving bay. There is a station
+named Fyling Hall, after Sir Hugh Cholmley's old house, halfway to
+Ravenscar. It was about the year 1625 that Sir Hugh to a great extent
+rebuilt Fyling Hall, which is still standing; but he came in with his
+family before the plaster on the walls was thoroughly dry, and the
+household seems to have suffered in health on this account. Shortly
+afterwards Sir Hugh lost his eldest son Richard, who was only five years
+old, and this great trouble decided him to move to Whitby; for in 1629
+he sold Fyling Hall to Sir John Hotham, and took up his residence in the
+Abbey House at Whitby.
+
+Raven Hall, the large house conspicuously perched on the heights above
+the Peak, is now converted into an hotel. There is a wonderful view from
+the castellated terraces, which in the distance suggest the remains of
+some ruined fortress. At the present time there is nothing to be seen
+older than the house whose foundations were dug in 1774. While the
+building operations were in progress, however, a Roman stone, now in
+Whitby Museum, was unearthed. The inscription has been translated:
+'Justinian, governor of the province, and Vindician, general of the
+forces of Upper Britain, for the second time, with the younger
+provincial soldiers built this fort, the manager of public works giving
+his assistance.' There is therefore ample evidence for believing that
+this commanding height was used by the Romans as a military post,
+although subsequently there were no further attempts to fortify the
+place, Scarborough, so much more easily defensible, being chosen
+instead. A rather pathetic attempt to foster the establishment of a
+watering-place has, however, been lately put on foot, but beyond some
+elaborately prepared roads and two or three isolated blocks of houses,
+there is fortunately little response to this artificial cultivation of a
+summer resort on the bare hill-top.
+
+Following this lofty coast southwards, you reach Hayburn Wyke, where a
+stream drops perpendicularly over some square masses of rock. After very
+heavy rains the waterfall attains quite a respectable size, but even
+under such favourable conditions the popularity of the place to a great
+extent spoils what might otherwise be a pleasant surprise to the
+rambler. The woodland paths leading down to the cove from the hotel by
+the station are exceedingly pretty, and in the summer it is not easy to
+find your way, despite the direction-boards nailed to trees here and
+there. But there are many wooded and mossy-pathed ravines equally
+pretty, where no charge is made for admittance, and where you can be
+away from your fellow-mortals and the silver paper they throw away from
+the chocolate they eat.
+
+There is a small stone circle not far from Hayburn Wyke Station, to be
+found without much trouble, and those who are interested in Early Man
+will scarcely find a neighbourhood in this country more thickly
+honeycombed with tumuli and ancient earthworks. There is no particularly
+plain pathway through the fields to the valley where this stone circle
+can be seen, but it can easily be found after a careful study of the
+large scale Ordnance map which they will show you at the hotel; and if
+there be any difficulty in locating the exact position of the stones,
+the people at the neighbouring farm are exceedingly kind in giving
+directions. There are about fifteen monoliths making up the circle, and
+they are all lying flat on the ground, so that in the summer they are
+very much overgrown with rank grass and low bushes. This was probably
+the burial-place of some prehistoric chief, but no mound remains.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+SCARBOROUGH
+
+
+Dazzling sunshine, a furious wind, flapping and screaming gulls, crowds
+of fishing-boats, and innumerable people jostling one another on the
+seafront, made up the chief features of my first view of Scarborough. By
+degrees I discovered that behind the gulls and the brown sails were old
+houses, their roofs dimly red through the transparent haze, and above
+them appeared a great green cliff, with its uneven outline defined by
+the curtain walls and towers of the castle which had made Scarborough a
+place of importance in the Civil War and in earlier times.
+
+The wide-curving bay was filled with huge breaking waves which looked
+capable of destroying everything within their reach, but they seemed
+harmless enough when I looked a little further out, where eight or ten
+gray warships were riding at their anchors, apparently motionless.
+
+From the outer arm of the harbour, where the seas were angrily
+attempting to dislodge the top row of stones, I could make out the great
+mass of gray buildings stretching right to the extremity of the bay.
+
+I tried to pick out individual buildings from this city-like
+watering-place, but, beyond discovering the position of the Spa and one
+or two of the mightier hotels, I could see very little, and instead fell
+to wondering how many landladies and how many foreign waiters the long
+lines of gray roofs represented. This raised so many unpleasant
+recollections of the various types I had encountered that I determined
+to go no nearer to modern Scarborough than the pier-head upon which I
+stood. A specially big wave, however, soon drove me from this position
+to a drier if more crowded spot, and, reconsidering my objections, I
+determined to see something of the innumerable gray streets which make
+up the fashionable watering-place. The terraced gardens on the steep
+cliffs along the sea-front were most elaborately well kept, but a more
+striking feature of Scarborough is the magnificence of so many of the
+shops. They suggest a city rather than a seaside town, and give you an
+idea of the magnitude of the permanent population of the place as well
+as the flood of summer and winter visitors. The origin of Scarborough's
+popularity was undoubtedly due to the chalybeate waters of the Spa,
+discovered in 1620, almost at the same time as those of Tunbridge Wells
+and Epsom.
+
+The unmistakable signs of antiquity in the narrow streets adjoining the
+harbour irresistibly remind one of the days when sea-bathing had still
+to be popularized, when the efficacy of Scarborough's medicinal spring
+had not been discovered, of the days when the place bore as little
+resemblance to its present size or appearance as the fishing-town at
+Robin Hood's Bay.
+
+We do not know that Piers Gaveston, Sir Hugh Cholmley, and other
+notabilities who have left their mark on the pages of Scarborough's
+history, might not, were they with us to-day, welcome the pierrot, the
+switchback, the restaurant, and other means by which pleasure-loving
+visitors wile away their hardly-earned holidays; but for my part the
+story of Scarborough's Mayor who was tossed in a blanket is far more
+entertaining than the songs of nigger minstrels or any of the commercial
+attempts to amuse.
+
+This strangely improper procedure with one who held the highest office
+in the municipality took place in the reign of James II., and the King's
+leanings towards Popery were the cause of all the trouble.
+
+On April 27, 1688, a declaration for liberty of conscience was
+published, and by royal command the said declaration was to be read in
+every Protestant church in the land. Mr. Thomas Aislabie, the Mayor of
+Scarborough, duly received a copy of the document, and, having handed it
+to the clergyman, Mr. Noel Boteler, ordered him to read it in church on
+the following Sunday morning. There seems little doubt that the worthy
+Mr. Boteler at once recognised a wily move on the part of the King, who
+under the cover of general tolerance would foster the growth of the
+Roman religion until such time as the Catholics had attained sufficient
+power to suppress Protestantism. Mr. Mayor was therefore informed that
+the declaration would not be read. On Sunday morning (August 11) when
+the omission had been made, the Mayor left his pew, and, stick in hand,
+walked up the aisle, seized the minister, and caned him as he stood at
+his reading-desk. Scenes of such a nature did not occur every day even
+in 1688, and the storm of indignation and excitement among the members
+of the congregation did not subside so quickly as it had risen.
+
+The cause of the poor minister was championed in particular by a certain
+Captain Ouseley, and the discussion of the matter on the bowling-green
+on the following day led to the suggestion that the Mayor should be sent
+for to explain his conduct. As he took no notice of a courteous message
+requesting his attendance, the Captain repeated the summons accompanied
+by a file of musketeers. In the meantime many suggestions for dealing
+with Mr. Aislabie in a fitting manner were doubtless made by the
+Captain's brother officers, and, further, some settled course of action
+seems to have been agreed upon, for we do not hear of any hesitation on
+the part of the Captain on the arrival of the Mayor, whose rage must by
+this time have been bordering upon apoplexy. A strong blanket was ready,
+and Captains Carvil, Fitzherbert, Hanmer, and Rodney, led by Captain
+Ouseley and assisted by as many others as could find room, seizing the
+sides, in a very few moments Mr. Mayor was revolving and bumping, rising
+and falling, as though he were no weight at all.
+
+This public degradation was too much to be borne without substantial
+redress. He therefore set out at once for London to obtain satisfaction
+from his Sovereign. But Ouseley was wise enough to look after his own
+interests in that quarter himself, and in two letters we see the upshot
+of the matter.
+
+
+  'LONDON,
+
+  'September 22, 1688.
+
+  '....Captain Ouseley is said to be come to
+   town to give reasons for tossing the mayor of
+   Scarborough in a blanket. As part of his plea he
+   has brought with him a collection of articles against
+   the said mayor, and the attestations of many gentlemen
+   of note.'
+
+
+  'LONDON,
+
+  'September 29, 1688.
+
+  'The mayor of Scarborough and Captain Ouseley,
+   who tossed the other in a blanket, were heard last
+   night before the council: the Captain pleaded his
+   majesty's gracious pardon (which is in the press)
+   and so both were dismissed.'
+
+
+Aislabie was the last of the only five Mayors the town had then known,
+and the fact that the office had only been instituted in 1684 seems to
+show that what reverence had gathered round the person of the chief
+magistrate was not sufficient to stand in the face of such outrageous
+conduct as the public caning of the minister. The townsfolk decided that
+they had had enough of Mayors, for on November 16 in the same autumn
+Scarborough was once more placed under the control of two Bailiffs, as
+had been the case previous to 1684.
+
+If the castle does not show many interesting buildings beyond the keep
+and the long line of walls and drum-towers, there is so much concerning
+it that is of great human interest that I should scarcely feel able to
+grumble if there were still fewer remains. Behind the ancient houses in
+Quay Street rises the steep, grassy cliff, up which one must climb by
+various rough pathways to the fortified summit. On the side facing the
+mainland, a hollow, known as the Dyke, is bridged by a tall and narrow
+archway, in place of the drawbridge of the seventeenth century and
+earlier times. On the same side is a massive gateway, looking across an
+open space to St. Mary's Church, which suffered so severely during the
+sieges of the castle. The maimed church--for the chancel has never been
+rebuilt--looks across the Dyke to the shattered keep, and so apparent
+are the results of the cannonading between them that no one requires to
+be told that the Parliamentary forces mounted their ordnance in the
+chancel and tower of the church, and it is equally apparent that the
+Royalists returned the fire hotly.
+
+The great siege lasted for nearly a year, and although his garrison was
+small, and there was practically no hope of relief, Sir Hugh Cholmley
+seems to have kept a stout heart up to the end. With him throughout this
+long period of privation and suffering was his beautiful and courageous
+wife, whose comparatively early death, at the age of fifty-four, must to
+some extent be attributed to the strain and fatigue borne during these
+months of warfare. Sir Hugh seems to have almost worshipped his wife,
+for in his memoirs he is never weary of describing her perfections.
+
+'She was of the middle stature of women,' he writes, 'and well shaped,
+yet in that not so singular as in the beauty of her face, which was but
+of a little model, and yet proportionable to her body; her eyes black
+and full of loveliness and sweetness, her eyebrows small and even, as if
+drawn with a pencil, a very little, pretty, well-shaped mouth, which
+sometimes (especially when in a muse or study) she would draw up into an
+incredible little compass; her hair a sad chestnut; her complexion
+brown, but clear, with a fresh colour in her cheeks, a loveliness in her
+looks inexpressible; and by her whole composure was so beautiful a sweet
+creature at her marriage as not many did parallel, few exceed her in the
+nation; yet the inward endowments and perfections of her mind did exceed
+those outward of her body, being a most pious virtuous person, of great
+integrity and discerning judgment in most things.'
+
+Her husband speaks of her 'sweet good-nature,' and of how she was always
+ready to be touched with other people's wants before her own. That such
+nobleness of character should shine out brilliantly during the siege was
+inevitable, and Sir Hugh tells us that, though she was of a timorous
+nature, she bore herself during great danger with 'a courage above her
+sex.' On one occasion Sir John Meldrum, the Parliamentary commander,
+sent proposals to Sir Hugh Cholmley, which he accompanied with savage
+threats, that if his terms were not immediately accepted he would make a
+general assault on the castle that night, and in the event of one drop
+of his men's blood being shed he would give orders for a general
+massacre of the garrison, sparing neither man nor woman.
+
+To a man whose devotion to his beautiful wife was so great, a threat of
+this nature must have been a severe shock to his determination to hold
+out. But from his own writings we are able to picture for ourselves Sir
+Hugh's anxious and troubled face lighting up on the approach of the
+cause of his chief concern. Lady Cholmley, without any sign of the
+inward misgivings or dejection which, with her gentle and shrinking
+nature, must have been a great struggle, came to her husband, and
+implored him to on no account let her peril influence his decision to
+the detriment of his own honour or the King's affairs.
+
+Sir John Meldrum's proposals having been rejected, the garrison prepared
+itself for the furious attack commenced on May 11.
+
+The assault was well planned, for while the Governor's attention was
+turned towards the gateway leading to the castle entrance, another
+attack was made at the southern end of the wall towards the sea, where
+until the year 1730 Charles's Tower stood. The bloodshed at this point
+was greater than at the gateway. At the head of a chosen division of
+troops, Sir John Meldrum climbed the almost precipitous ascent with
+wonderful courage, only to meet with such spirited resistance on the
+part of the besieged that, when the attack was abandoned, it was
+discovered that Meldrum had received a dangerous wound penetrating to
+his thigh, and that several of his officers and men had been killed.
+Meanwhile, at the gateway, the first success of the assailants had been
+checked at the foot of the Grand Tower or Keep, for at that point the
+rush of drab-coated and helmeted men was received by such a shower of
+stones and missiles that many stumbled and were crushed on the steep
+pathway. Not even Cromwell's men could continue to face such a
+reception, and before very long the Governor could embrace his wife in
+the knowledge that the great attack had failed.
+
+In between such scenes as these, when the air was filled with the shouts
+and yells of attackers and besieged, when the crack of the muskets and
+the intermittent reports of the cannon almost deafened her, Lady
+Cholmley was assiduously attending to the wounded and the many cases of
+scurvy, which was rampant among the garrison. One of her maids who
+shared these labours crept out of the castle one night with a view to
+reaching the town and escaping further drudgery and privations; but a
+Roundhead sentry discovered her and sent her back to the castle,
+thinking that she was a spy. When the great keep was partially
+destroyed, Lady Cholmley was forced 'to lie in a little cabbin on the
+ground several months together, when she took a defluction of rhume upon
+one of her eyes, which troubled her ever after, and got also a touch of
+the scurvy then rife in the castle, and of which it is thought she was
+not well after.' Who can wonder that Sir Hugh appreciated the courage of
+this noble lady, and I marvel still more at her fortitude when I read of
+the frailties her husband mentions so gently, fearing, no doubt, that
+without a few shadows no one would accept his picture as genuine. 'If
+she had taken impression of anything, it was hard to remove it with
+reason or argument, till she had considered of it herself; neither could
+she well endure adversity or crosses, though it pleased the Lord to
+exercise her with them, by my many troubles and the calamity of the
+times. She would be much troubled at evils which could neither be
+prevented nor remedied, and sometimes discontented without any great
+cause, especially in her disposition of health; for, being of a tender
+constitution, and spun of a fine thread, every disaster took impression
+on her body and mind, and would make her both sick and often inclinable
+to be melancholy, especially in my absence.'
+
+At last, on July 22, 1645--his forty-fifth birthday--Sir Hugh was forced
+to come to an agreement with the enemy, by which he honourably
+surrendered the castle three days later. It was a sad procession that
+wound its way down the steep pathway, littered with the debris of broken
+masonry: for many of Sir Hugh's officers and soldiers were in such a
+weak condition that they had to be carried out in sheets or helped along
+between two men, and the Parliamentary officer adds, rather tersely,
+that 'the rest were not very fit to march.' The scurvy had depleted the
+ranks of the defenders to such an extent that the women in the castle,
+despite the presence of Lady Cholmley, threatened to stone the Governor
+unless he capitulated.
+
+The reduction of Scarborough Castle was considered a profound success to
+the side of the Parliament, 'The Moderate Intelligencer' of July 23,
+1645, announcing the fact with great satisfaction, 'we heare likewise
+that _Scarborough_ is also yeelded into our hands, Sir Hugh hath none
+other conditions for himself, but with his wife and children passe
+beyond seas. This is excellent good newes, and is a very terrible blow
+to the enemy.'
+
+Three years later the castle was again besieged by the Parliamentary
+forces, for Colonel Matthew Boynton, the Governor, had declared for the
+King. The garrison held out from August to December, when terms were
+made with Colonel Hugh Bethell, by which the Governor, officers,
+gentlemen, and soldiers, marched out with 'their colours flying, drums
+beating, musquets loaden, bandeleers filled, matches lighted, and bullet
+in mouth, to a close called Scarborough Common,' where they laid down
+their arms.
+
+Before I leave Scarborough I must go back to early times, in order that
+the antiquity of the place may not be slighted owing to the omission of
+any reference to the town in the Domesday Book. Tosti, Count of
+Northumberland, who, as everyone knows, was brother of the Harold who
+fought at Senlac Hill, had brought about an insurrection of the
+Northumbrians, and having been dispossessed by his brother, he revenged
+himself by inviting the help of Haralld Hadrada, King of Norway. The
+Norseman promptly accepted the offer, and, taking with him his family
+and an army of warriors, sailed for the Shetlands, where Tosti joined
+him. The united forces then came down the east coast of Britain until
+they reached Scardaburgum, where they landed and prepared to fight the
+inhabitants. The town was then built entirely of timber, and there was,
+apparently, no castle of any description on the great hill, for the
+Norsemen, finding their opponents inclined to offer a stout resistance,
+tried other tactics. They gained possession of the hill, constructed a
+huge fire, and when the wood was burning fiercely, flung the blazing
+brands down on to the wooden houses below. The fire spread from one hut
+to another with sufficient speed to drive out the defenders, who in the
+confusion which followed were slaughtered by the enemy.
+
+This occurred in the momentous year 1066, when Harold, having defeated
+the Norsemen and slain Haralld Hadrada at Stamford Bridge, had to hurry
+southwards to meet William the Norman at Hastings. It is not surprising,
+therefore, that the compilers of the Conqueror's survey should have
+failed to record the existence of the blackened embers of what had once
+been a town. But such a site as the castle hill could not long remain
+idle in the stormy days of the Norman Kings, and William le Gros, Earl
+of Albemarle and Lord of Holderness, recognising the natural
+defensibility of the rock, built the massive walls which have withstood
+so many assaults, and even now form the most prominent feature of
+Scarborough.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+WHITBY
+
+
+  'Behold the glorious summer sea
+   As night's dark wings unfold,
+   And o'er the waters, 'neath the stars,
+   The harbour lights behold.'
+
+E. Teschemacher.
+
+Despite a huge influx of summer visitors, and despite the modern town
+which has grown up to receive them, Whitby is still one of the most
+strikingly picturesque towns in England. But at the same time, if one
+excepts the abbey, the church, and the market-house, there are scarcely
+any architectural attractions in the town. The charm of the place does
+not lie so much in detail as in broad effects. The narrow streets have
+no surprises in the way of carved-oak brackets or curious panelled
+doorways, although narrow passages and steep flights of stone steps
+abound. On the other hand, the old parts of the town, when seen from a
+distance, are always presenting themselves in new apparel.
+
+In the early morning the East Cliff generally appears merely as a pale
+gray silhouette with a square projection representing the church, and a
+fretted one the abbey. But as the sun climbs upwards, colour and
+definition grow out of the haze of smoke and shadows, and the roofs
+assume their ruddy tones. At mid-day, when the sunlight pours down upon
+the medley of houses clustered along the face of the cliff, the scene is
+brilliantly coloured. The predominant note is the red of the chimneys
+and roofs and stray patches of brickwork, but the walls that go down to
+the water's edge are green below and full of rich browns above, and in
+many places the sides of the cottages are coloured with an ochre wash,
+while above them all the top of the cliff appears covered with grass. On
+a clear day, when detached clouds are passing across the sun, the houses
+are sometimes lit up in the strangest fashion, their quaint outlines
+being suddenly thrown out from the cliff by a broad patch of shadow upon
+the grass and rocks behind. But there is scarcely a chimney in this old
+part of Whitby that does not contribute to the mist of blue-gray smoke
+that slowly drifts up the face of the cliff, and thus, when there is no
+bright sunshine, colour and detail are subdued in the haze.
+
+In many towns whose antiquity and picturesqueness are more popular than
+the attractions of Whitby, the railway deposits one in some
+distressingly ugly modern excrescence, from which it may even be
+necessary for a stranger to ask his way to the old-world features he has
+come to see. But at Whitby the railway, without doing any harm to the
+appearance of the town, at once gives a visitor as typical a scene of
+fishing-life as he will ever find. When the tide is up and the wharves
+are crowded with boats, this upper portion of Whitby Harbour is at its
+best, and to step from the railway compartment entered at King's Cross
+into this busy scene is an experience to be remembered.
+
+In the deepening twilight of a clear evening the harbour gathers to
+itself the additional charm of mysterious indefiniteness, and among the
+long-drawn-out reflections appear sinuous lines of yellow light beneath
+the lamps by the bridge. Looking towards the ocean from the outer
+harbour, one sees the massive arms which Whitby has thrust into the
+waves, holding aloft the steady lights that
+
+
+  'Safely guide the mighty ships
+   Into the harbour bay.'
+
+If we keep to the waterside, modern Whitby has no terrors for us. It is
+out of sight, and might therefore have never existed. But when we have
+crossed the bridge, and passed along the narrow thoroughfare known as
+Church Street to the steps leading up the face of the cliff, we must
+prepare ourselves for a new aspect of the town. There, upon the top of
+the West Cliff, stand rows of sad-looking and dun-coloured
+lodging-houses, relieved by the aggressive bulk of a huge hotel, with
+corner turrets, that frowns savagely at the unfinished crescent, where
+there are many apartments with 'rooms facing the sea.' The only
+redeeming feature of this modern side of Whitby is the circumscribed
+area it occupies, so that the view from the top of the 199 steps we have
+climbed is not altogether vitiated. A distinctive feature of the west
+side of the river has been lost in the sails of the Union Mill, which
+were taken down some years ago, and the solid brick building where many
+of the Whitby people, by the excellent method of cooperation, obtained
+their flour at reduced prices is now the headquarters of some
+volunteers.
+
+The town seems to have no idea of re-erecting the sails of the windmill,
+and as I have so far heard of no scheme for demolishing the
+unpleasant-looking houses on the West Cliff, we will shut our eyes to
+these shortcomings, and admit that the task is not difficult in the
+presence of such a superb view over Whitby's glorious surroundings. We
+look over the chimney-stacks of the topmost houses, and see the silver
+Esk winding placidly in the deep channel it has carved for itself; and
+further away we see the far-off moorland heights, brown and blue, where
+the sources of the broad river down below are fed by the united efforts
+of innumerable tiny streams deep in the heather. Behind us stands the
+massive-looking parish church, with its Norman tower, so sturdily built
+that its height seems scarcely greater than its breadth. There is surely
+no other church with such a ponderous exterior that is so completely
+deceptive as to its internal aspect, for St. Mary's contains the most
+remarkable series of beehive-like galleries that were ever crammed into
+a parish church. They are not merely very wide and ill-arranged, but
+they are superposed one above the other. The free use of white paint all
+over the sloping tiers of pews has prevented the interior from being as
+dark as it would have otherwise been, but the result of all this painted
+deal has been to give the building the most eccentric and indecorous
+appearance. Still, there are few who will fail to thank the good folks
+of Whitby for preserving an ecclesiastical curiosity of such an unusual
+nature. The box-pews on the floor of the church are separated by very
+narrow gangways--we cannot call them aisles--and the gallery across the
+chancel arch is particularly noticeable for the twisted wooden columns
+supporting it. Various pews in the transepts and elsewhere have been
+reserved for many generations for the use of people from outlying
+villages, such as Aislaby, Ugglebarnby, and Hawskercum-Stainsacre, and
+it was this necessity for accommodating a very large congregation that
+taxed the ingenuity of the churchwardens, and resulted in the strange
+interior existing to-day.
+
+The early history of Whitby from the time of the landing of Roman
+soldiers in Dunsley Bay seems to be very closely associated with the
+abbey founded by Hilda about two years after the battle of Winwidfield,
+fought on November 15, A.D. 654; but I will not venture to state an
+opinion here as to whether there was any town at Streoneshalh before the
+building of the abbey, or whether the place that has since become known
+as Whitby grew on account of the presence of the abbey. Such matters as
+these have been fought out by an expert in the archaeology of
+Cleveland--the late Canon Atkinson, who seemed to take infinite pleasure
+in demolishing the elaborately constructed theories of those painstaking
+historians of the eighteenth century, Dr. Young and Mr. Lionel Charlton.
+
+Many facts, however, which throw light on the early days of the abbey
+are now unassailable. We see that Hilda must have been a most remarkable
+woman for her times, instilling into those around her a passion for
+learning as well as right-living, for despite the fact that they worked
+and prayed in rude wooden buildings, with walls formed, most probably,
+of split tree-trunks, after the fashion of the church at Greenstead in
+Essex, we find the institution producing, among others, such men as Bosa
+and John, both Bishops of York, and such a poet as Caadmon. The legend
+of his inspiration, however, may be placed beside the story of how the
+saintly Abbess turned the snakes into the fossil ammonites with which
+the liassic shores of Whitby are strewn. Hilda, who probably died in the
+year 680, was succeeded by Aelfleda, the daughter of King Oswin of
+Northumbria, whom she had trained in the abbey, and there seems little
+doubt that her pupil carried on successfully the beneficent work of the
+foundress.
+
+Aelfleda had the support of her mother's presence as well as the wise
+counsels of Bishop Trumwine, who had taken refuge at Streoneshalh, after
+having been driven from his own sphere of work by the depredations of
+the Picts and Scots. We then learn that Aelfleda died at the age of
+fifty-nine, but from that year--probably 713--a complete silence falls
+upon the work of the abbey; for if any records were made during the next
+century and a half, they have been totally lost. About the year 867 the
+Danes reached this part of Yorkshire, and we know that they laid waste
+the abbey, and most probably the town also; but the invaders gradually
+started new settlements, or 'bys,' and Whitby must certainly have grown
+into a place of some size by the time of Edward the Confessor, for just
+previous to the Norman invasion it was assessed for Danegeld to the
+extent of a sum equivalent to �3,500 at the present time.
+
+After the Conquest a monk named Reinfrid succeeded in reviving a
+monastery on the site of the old one, having probably gained the
+permission of William de Percy, the lord of the district. The new
+establishment, however, was for monks only, and was for some time
+merely a priory.
+
+The form of the successive buildings from the time of Hilda until the
+building of the stately abbey church, whose ruins are now to be seen, is
+a subject of great interest, but, unfortunately, there are few facts to
+go upon. The very first church was, as I have already suggested, a
+building of rude construction, scarcely better than the humble dwellings
+of the monks and nuns. The timber walls were most probably thatched, and
+the windows would be of small lattice or boards pierced with small
+holes. Gradually the improvements brought about would have led to the
+use of stone for the walls, and the buildings destroyed by the Danes
+probably resembled such examples of Anglo-Saxon work as may still be
+seen in the churches of Bradford-on-Avon and Monkwearmouth.
+
+The buildings erected by Reinfrid under the Norman influence then
+prevailing in England must have been a slight advance upon the destroyed
+fabric, and we know that during the time of his successor, Serlo de
+Percy, there was a certain Godfrey in charge of the building operations,
+and there is every reason to believe that he completed the church during
+the fifty years of prosperity the monastery passed through at that time.
+But this was not the structure which survived, for towards the end of
+Stephen's reign, or during that of Henry II., the unfortunate convent
+was devastated by the King of Norway, who entered the harbour, and, in
+the words of the chronicle, 'laid waste everything, both within doors
+and without.' The abbey slowly recovered from this disaster, and if any
+church were built on the ruins between 1160 and the reconstruction
+commenced in 1220, there is no part of it surviving to-day in the
+beautiful ruin that still makes a conspicuous landmark from the sea.
+
+It was after the Dissolution that the abbey buildings came into the
+hands of Sir Richard Cholmley, who paid over to Henry VIII. the sum of
+�333 8s. 4d. The manors of Eskdaleside and Ugglebarnby, with all 'their
+rights, members and appurtenances as they formerly had belonged to the
+abbey of Whitby,' henceforward belonged to Sir Richard and his
+successors. Sir Hugh Cholmley, whose defence of Scarborough Castle has
+made him a name in history, was born on July 22, 1600, at Roxby, near
+Pickering. He has been justly called 'the father of Whitby,' and it is
+to him we owe a fascinating account of his life at Whitby in Stuart and
+Jacobean times. He describes how he lived for some time in the
+gate-house of the abbey buildings, 'till my house was repaired and
+habitable, which then was very ruinous and all unhandsome, the wall
+being only of timber and plaster, and ill-contrived within: and besides
+the repairs, or rather re-edifying the house, I built the stable and
+barn, I heightened the outwalls of the court double to what they were,
+and made all the wall round about the paddock; so that the place hath
+been improved very much, both for beauty and profit, by me more than all
+my ancestors, for there was not a tree about the house but was set in my
+time, and almost by my own hand. The Court levels, which laid upon a
+hanging ground, unhandsomely, very ill-watered, having only the low
+well, which is in the Almsers-close, which I covered; and also
+discovered, and erected, the other adjoining conduit, and the well in
+the courtyard from whence I conveyed by leaden pipes water into the
+house, brewhouse, and washhouse.'
+
+In the spring of 1636 the reconstruction of the abbey house was
+finished, and Sir Hugh moved in with his family. 'My dear wife,' he
+says, '(who was excellent at dressing and making all handsome within
+doors) had put it into a fine posture, and furnished with many good
+things, so that, I believe, there were few gentlemen in the country, of
+my rank, exceeded it.... I was at this time made Deputy-lieutenant and
+Colonel over the Train-bands within the hundred of Whitby Strand,
+Ryedale, Pickering, Lythe and Scarborough town; for that, my father
+being dead, the country looked upon me as the chief of my family.'
+
+Sir Hugh had been somewhat addicted to gambling in his younger days, and
+had made a few debts of his own before he undertook to deal with his
+father's heavy liabilities, and in the early years of his married life
+he had been very much taken up with the difficult and arduous work of
+paying off the amounts due to the clamorous creditors. During this
+process he had been forced to live very quietly, and had incidentally
+sifted out his real friends from among his relations and acquaintances.
+Thus, it is with pardonable pride that he says: 'Having mastered my
+debts, I did not only appear at all public meetings in a very
+gentlemanly equipage, but lived in as handsome and plentiful fashion at
+home as any gentleman in all the country, of my rank. I had between
+thirty and forty in my ordinary family, a chaplain who said prayers
+every morning at six, and again before dinner and supper, a porter who
+merely attended the gates, which were ever shut up before dinner, when
+the bell rung to prayers, and not opened till one o'clock, except for
+some strangers who came to dinner, which was ever fit to receive three
+or four besides my family, without any trouble; and whatever their fare
+was, they were sure to have a hearty welcome. Twice a week, a certain
+number of old people, widows and indigent persons, were served at my
+gates with bread and good pottage made of beef, which I mention that
+those which succeed may follow the example.' Not content with merely
+benefiting the aged folk of his town, Sir Hugh took great pains to
+extend the piers, and in 1632 went to London to petition the
+'Council-table' to allow a general contribution for this purpose
+throughout the country. As a result of his efforts, 'all that part of
+the pier to the west end of the harbour' was erected, and yet he
+complains that, though it was the means of preserving a large section of
+the town from the sea, the townsfolk would not interest themselves in
+the repairs necessitated by force of the waves. 'I wish, with all my
+heart,' he exclaims, 'the next generation may have more public spirit.'
+
+Sir Hugh Cholmley also built a market-house for the town, and removed
+the bridge to its present position. Owing to rebuilding, neither of
+these actual works remains with us to-day, but their influence on the
+progress of Whitby must have been considerable.
+
+On a June morning in the year after Sir Hugh had settled down so
+handsomely in his refurbished house, two Dutch men-of-war chased into
+the harbour 'a small pickroon belonging to the King of Spain.' The
+Hollanders had 400 men in one ship and 200 in the other, but the
+Spaniard had only thirty men and two small guns. The Holland ships
+proceeded to anchor outside the harbour, and, lowering their longboats,
+sent ashore forty men, all armed with pistols. But the Spaniards had
+been on the alert, and having warped their vessel to a safer position
+above the bridge, they placed their two guns on the deck, and every man
+prepared himself to defend the ship.
+
+'I, having notice of this,' writes Sir Hugh, 'fearing they might do here
+the like affront as they did at Scarborough, where they landed one
+hundred men, and took a ship belonging to the King of Spain out of the
+harbour, sent for the Holland Captains, and ordered them not to offer
+any act of hostility; for that the Spaniard was the King's friend, and
+to have protection in his ports. After some expostulations, they
+promised not to meddle with the Dunkirker [Spaniard] if he offered no
+injury to them; which I gave him strict charge against, and to trust to
+the King's protection. These Holland Captains leaving me, and going into
+the town, sent for the Dunkirk Captain to dine with them, and soon after
+took occasion to quarrel with him, at the same time ordered their men to
+fall on the Dunkirk ship, which they soon surprised, the Captain and
+most of the men being absent. I being in my courtyard, and hearing some
+pistols discharged, and being told the Dunkirker and Hollanders were at
+odds, made haste unto the town, having only a cane in my hand, and one
+that followed me without any weapon, thinking my presence would pacify
+all differences. When I came to the river-side, on the sand between the
+coal-yard and the bridge, I found the Holland Captain with a pistol in
+his hand, calling to his men, then in the Dunkirk ship, to send a boat
+for him. I gave him good words, and held him in treaty until I got near
+him, and then, giving a leap on him, caught hold of his pistol, which I
+became master of; yet not without some hazard from the ship, for one
+from thence levelled a musket at me; but I espying it, turned the
+Captain between me and him, which prevented his shooting.'
+
+When Sir Hugh had secured the Captain, he sent a boatload of men to
+retake the ship, and as soon as the Hollanders saw it approaching, they
+fled to their own vessels outside the harbour. In the afternoon Sir Hugh
+intercepted a letter to his prisoner, telling him to be of good cheer,
+for at midnight they would land 200 men and bring him away. This was a
+serious matter, and Sir Hugh sent to Sir John Hotham, the High Sheriff
+of the county, who at once came from Fyling, and summoned all the
+adjacent train-bands. There were about 200 men on guard all through the
+night, and evidently the Hollanders had observed the activity on shore,
+for they made no attack. The ships continued to hover outside the
+harbour for two or three days, until Sir Hugh sent the Captain to York.
+He was afterwards taken to London, where he remained a prisoner, after
+the fashion of those times, for nearly two years.
+
+It was after the troublous times of the Civil War that Sir Hugh
+re-established himself at Whitby, and opened a new era of prosperity for
+himself and the townsfolk in the alum-works at Saltwick Nab.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+THE CLEVELAND HILLS
+
+On their their northern and western flanks the Cleveland Hills have a
+most imposing and mountainous aspect, although their greatest altitudes
+do not aspire more than about 1,500 feet. But they rise so suddenly to
+their full height out of the flat sea of green country that they often
+appear as a coast defended by a bold range of mountains. Roseberry
+Topping stands out in grim isolation, on its masses of alum rock, like a
+huge seaworn crag, considerably over 1,000 feet high. But this strangely
+menacing peak raises its defiant head over nothing but broad meadows,
+arable land, and woodlands, and his only warfare is with the lower
+strata of storm-clouds, which is a convenient thing for the people who
+live in these parts; for long ago they used the peak as a sign of
+approaching storms, having reduced the warning to the easily-remembered
+couplet:
+
+    'When Roseberry Topping wears a cap, 
+     Let Cleveland then beware of a clap.'
+
+In a similar manner the Scarborough folk used Oliver's Mount, the
+isolated hill at the back of the town, as a ready-made barometer, for
+they knew that
+
+  'When Oliver's Mount puts on his hat,
+   Scarborough town will pay for that.'
+
+It is difficult to decide on the correct spelling of Roseberry Topping,
+as it is often spelt in the same way as the earldom, and as frequently
+in old writings it appears as 'Rosebury.' Camden, who wrote in Tudor
+times, called it Ounsberry Topping, which certainly does not
+help matters.
+
+From the fact that you can see this remarkable peak from almost every
+point of the compass except south-westwards, it must follow that from
+the top of the hill there are views in all those directions. But to see
+so much of the country at once comes as a surprise to everyone.
+Stretching inland towards the backbone of England, there is spread out a
+huge tract of smiling country, covered with a most complex network of
+hedges, which gradually melt away into the indefinite blue edge of the
+world where the hills of Wensleydale rise from the plain. Looking across
+the little town of Guisborough, lying near the shelter of the hills, to
+the broad sweep of the North Sea, this piece of Yorkshire seems so small
+that one almost expects to see the Cheviots away in the north. But,
+beyond the winding Tees and the drifting smoke of the great
+manufacturing towns on its banks, one must be content with the county of
+Durham, a huge section of which is plainly visible. Turning towards the
+brown moorlands, the cultivation is exchanged for ridge beyond ridge of
+total desolation--a huge tract of land in this crowded England where the
+population for many square miles at a time consists of the inmates of a
+lonely farm or two in the circumscribed cultivated areas of the dales.
+
+Eight or nine hundred years ago these valleys were choked up with
+forests. The Early British inhabitants were more inclined to the
+hill-tops than the hollows, if the innumerable indications of their
+settlements be any guide, and there is every reason for believing that
+many of the hollows in the folds of the heathery moorlands were rarely
+visited by man. Thus, the suggestion has been made that a few of the
+last representatives of now extinct monsters may have survived in these
+wild retreats, for how otherwise do we find persistent stories in these
+parts of Yorkshire, handed down we cannot tell how many centuries, of
+strange creatures described as 'worms'? At Loftus they show you the spot
+where a 'grisly worm' had its lair, and in many places there are
+traditions of strange long-bodied dragons who were slain by various
+valiant men.
+
+When we remember that the last wolf was killed in Scotland in the
+seventeenth century, that Africa is still adding to the list of living
+animals, and that the caves at Kirkdale, near Kirby Moorside, revealed
+the bones of elephants, tigers, hyenas, and rhinoceroses, in an
+excellent state of preservation, though they were all broken, we are
+inclined to believe that these strange stories may have had some
+basis of fact.
+
+On Easby Moor, a few miles to the south of Roseberry Topping, the tall
+column to the memory of Captain Cook stands like a lighthouse on this
+inland coast-line. The lofty position it occupies among these brown and
+purply-green heights makes the monument visible over a great tract of
+the sailor's native Cleveland. The people who live in Marton, the
+village of his birthplace, can see the memorial of their hero's fame,
+and the country lads of to-day are constantly reminded of the success
+which attended the industry and perseverance of a humble Marton boy.
+
+The cottage where James Cook was born in 1728 has gone, but the field in
+which it stood is called Cook's Garth. The shop at Staithes, generally
+spoken of as a 'huckster's,' where Cook was apprenticed as a boy, has
+also disappeared; but, unfortunately, that unpleasant story of his
+having taken a shilling from his master's till, when the attractions of
+the sea proved too much for him to resist, persistently clings to all
+accounts of his early life. There seems no evidence to convict him of
+this theft, but there are equally no facts by which to clear him. But if
+we put into the balance his subsequent term of employment at Whitby, the
+excellent character he gained when he went to sea, and Professor J.K.
+Laughton's statement that he left Staithes 'after some disagreement with
+his master,' there seems every reason to believe that the story is
+untrue. If it were otherwise, the towering monument on Easby Moor would
+be a questionable inspiration to posterity.
+
+I have seldom seen a more uninhabited and inhospitable-looking country
+than the broad extent of purple hills that stretch away to the
+south-west from Great Ayton and Kildale Moors. Walking from Guisborough
+to Kildale on a wild and stormy afternoon in October, I was totally
+alone for the whole distance when I had left behind me the baker's boy
+who was on his way to Hutton with a heavy basket of bread and cakes.
+Hutton, which is somewhat of a model village for the retainers attached
+to Hutton Hall, stands in a lovely hollow at the edge of the moors. The
+steep hills are richly clothed with sombre woods, and the peace and
+seclusion reigning there is in marked contrast to the bleak wastes
+above. When I climbed the steep road on that autumn afternoon, and,
+passing the zone of tall, withered bracken, reached the open moorland, I
+seemed to have come out merely to be the plaything of the elements; for
+the south-westerly gale, when it chose to do so, blew so fiercely that
+it was difficult to make any progress at all. Overhead was a dark roof
+composed of heavy masses of cloud, forming long parallel lines of gray
+right to the horizon. On each side of the rough, water-worn road the
+heather made a low wall, two or three feet high, and stretched right
+away to the horizon in every direction. In the lulls, between the fierce
+blasts, I could hear the trickle of the water in the rivulets deep down
+in the springy cushion of heather. A few nimble sheep would stare at me
+from a distance, and then disappear, or some grouse might hover over a
+piece of rising ground; but otherwise there were no signs of living
+creatures. Nearing Kildale, the road suddenly plunged downwards to a
+stream flowing through a green, cultivated valley, with a lonely farm on
+the further slope. There was a fir-wood above this, and as I passed over
+the hill, among the tall, bare stems, the clouds parted a little in the
+west, and let a flood of golden light into the wood. Instantly the gloom
+seemed to disappear, and beyond the dark shoulder of moorland, where the
+Cook monument appeared against the glory of the sunset, there seemed to
+reign an all-pervading peace, the wood being quite silent, for the wind
+had dropped.
+
+The rough track through the trees descended hurriedly, and soon gave a
+wide view over Kildale. The valley was full of colour from the glowing
+west, and the steep hillsides opposite appeared lighter than the indigo
+clouds above, now slightly tinged with purple. The little village of
+Kildale nestled down below, its church half buried in yellow foliage.
+
+The railway comes through Eskdale from Whitby to Stockton-on-Tees, and
+thus gives the formerly remote valley easy communication with the
+outside world. It is dangerous, however, not to allow an ample margin
+for catching the trains, for there are only two or three in each
+direction in the autumn and winter, and a gap of about four hours
+generally separates the trains. I had been a long ramble over the moors
+on the north side of Eskdale, and had allowed the sun to set while I was
+still drawing on the top of Danby Beacon. But, having a good map with
+me, I was quite confident of finding the road to Lealholm without
+difficulty, as the distance was only a very few miles.
+
+The crimson globe in the west disappeared behind the dark horizon over
+the two Fryup valleys, and left the world in twilight. But it would not
+be dark for an hour, and except for mistaking the sheep for boulders and
+boulders for sheep, and being consequently surprised when what I had
+imagined was a mass of gray stone suddenly disappeared on my approach,
+nothing unusual happened. I had no fear of losing my way, but what my
+map had led me to believe would be a plain road was a mere track in the
+heather, and at times it became too indistinct to follow easily.
+Lealholm Station lay in the valley on my right, but I could find no road
+leading there, and I wasted precious time in frequent consultations with
+the map. Coming to a farm, I inquired the way, and was directed over a
+number of muddy fields, which gradually brought me down into the valley.
+It was now sufficiently dark for all the landmarks I had noticed to be
+scarcely visible, but, on inquiring at a cottage, I was told that it
+would take only ten minutes to walk to the station. I had a clear
+quarter of an hour, and, hurrying forward, soon found myself on a
+railway-bridge over a deep cutting. There was just enough light to see
+that no station was in sight, and it was impossible to find in which
+direction the station lay. There was no time to go back to the cottage,
+and there were no others to be seen. Looking at the map again, I could
+not discover the position of this bridge, for it was on no road, as it
+seemed merely to connect the pastures on either side. However, I felt
+fairly certain that I had rather overstepped the station, and therefore
+climbed down the bank into the cutting, and commenced walking towards
+the west. Coming out into the open, I thought I saw the lamps on the
+platforms about half a mile further on; but on pressing forward the
+lights became suddenly bigger, and in a minute my train passed me with a
+thundering rush. Evidently Lealholm was to the east, and not the west of
+that cutting. It was then 5.40, and the next train left for Whitby at
+about a quarter to ten. When the tail-lights of the train had
+disappeared into the cutting, I felt very much alone, and the silence of
+the countryside became oppressive. It seemed to me that this part of
+Yorkshire was just as lonely as when Canon Atkinson first commenced his
+work in Danby parish, and I was reminded of his friend's remark on
+hearing that he was going there: 'Why, Danby was not found out when they
+sent Bonaparte to St. Helena, or else they never would have taken the
+trouble to send him all the way there!'
+
+The ruined Danby Castle can still be seen on the slope above the Esk,
+but the ancient Bow Bridge at Castleton, which was built at the end of
+the twelfth century, was barbarously and needlessly destroyed in 1873. A
+picture of the bridge has, fortunately, been preserved in Canon
+Atkinson's 'Forty Years in a Moorland Parish.' That book has been so
+widely read that it seems scarcely necessary to refer to it here, but
+without the help of the Vicar, who knew every inch of his wild parish,
+the Danby district must seem much less interesting.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+GUISBOROUGH AND THE SKELTON VALLEY
+
+
+Although a mere fragment of the Augustinian Priory of Guisborough is
+standing to-day, it is sufficiently imposing to convey a powerful
+impression of the former size and magnificence of the monastic church.
+This fragment is the gracefully buttressed east end of the choir, which
+rises from the level meadow-land to the east of the town. The stonework
+is now of a greenish-gray tone, but in the shadows there is generally a
+look of blue. Beyond the ruin and through the opening of the great east
+window, now bare of tracery, you see the purple moors, with the
+ever-formidable Roseberry Topping holding its head above the green woods
+and pastures.
+
+The destruction of the priory took place most probably during the reign
+of Henry VIII., but there are no recorded facts to give the date of the
+spoiling of the stately buildings. The materials were probably sold to
+the highest bidder, for in the town of Guisborough there are scattered
+many fragments of richly-carved stone, and Ord, one of the historians of
+Cleveland, says: 'I have beheld with sorrow, and shame, and indignation,
+the richly ornamented columns and carved architraves of God's temple
+supporting the thatch of a pig-house.'
+
+The Norman priory church, founded in 1119, by the wealthy Robert de Brus
+of Skelton, was, unfortunately, burnt down on May 16, 1289. Walter of
+Hemingburgh, a canon of Guisborough, has written a quaintly detailed
+account of the origin of the fire. Translated from the monkish Latin, he
+says: 'On the first day of rogation-week, a devouring flame consumed our
+church of Gysburn, with many theological books and nine costly chalices,
+as well as vestments and sumptuous images; and because past events are
+serviceable as a guide to future inquiries, I have thought it desirable,
+in the present little treatise, to give an account of the catastrophe,
+that accidents of a similar nature may be avoided through this calamity
+allotted to us. On the day above mentioned, which was very destructive
+to us, a vile plumber, with his two workmen, burnt our church whilst
+soldering up two holes in the old lead with fresh pewter. For some days
+he had already, with a wicked disposition, commenced, and placed his
+iron crucibles, along with charcoal and fire, on rubbish, or steps of a
+great height, upon dry wood with some turf and other combustibles. About
+noon (in the cross, in the body of the church, where he remained at his
+work until after Mass) he descended before the procession of the
+convent, thinking that the fire had been put out by his workmen. They,
+however, came down quickly after him, without having completely
+extinguished the fire; and the fire among the charcoal revived, and
+partly from the heat of the iron, and partly from the sparks of the
+charcoal, the fire spread itself to the wood and other combustibles
+beneath. After the fire was thus commenced, the lead melted, and the
+joists upon the beams ignited; and then the fire increased prodigiously,
+and consumed everything.' Hemingburgh concludes by saying that all that
+they could get from the culprits was the exclamation, 'Quid potui ego?'
+Shortly after this disaster the Prior and convent wrote to Edward II.,
+excusing themselves from granting a corrody owing to their great losses
+through the burning of the monastery, as well as the destruction of
+their property by the Scots. But Guisborough, next to Fountains, was
+almost the richest establishment in Yorkshire, and thus in a few years'
+time there arose from the Norman foundations a stately church and
+convent built in the Early Decorated style.
+
+Glimpses of the inner life of the priory are given in the Archbishop's
+registers at York, which show how close and searching were the
+visitations by the Archbishop in person or his commissioners, and one of
+the documents throws light on the sad necessity for these inspections.
+It deals with Archbishop Wickwaine's visit in 1280, and we find that the
+canons are censured for many short-comings. They were not to go outside
+the cloister after compline (the last service of the day) on the pretext
+of visiting guests. They were not to keep expensive schools for rich or
+poor, unless with special sanction. They were to turn out of the
+infirmary and punish the persons lying there who were only pretending to
+be ill, and the really sick were to be more kindly treated. There had
+evidently been discrimination in the quality of food served out to
+certain persons in the frater; but this was to be stopped, and food of
+one kind was to be divided equally. A more strict silence was to be kept
+in the cloister, and no one was to refrain from joining in the praises
+of God whilst in the choir. There seems to have been much improper
+conversation among the canons, for they are specially adjured in Christ
+to abstain from repeating immoral stories. Some of the canons who had
+made themselves notorious for quarrelling and caballing were to be
+debarred from promotion, and were commended to the Prior and Subprior
+for punishment.
+
+In 1309 Simon Constable, a refractory canon of Bridlington, was sent to
+Guisborough to undergo a course of penance, change of residence being
+always considered to give an excellent opportunity for thorough reform.
+However, in this case no good seems to have resulted, for about five
+years later he was sent back to Bridlington with a worse character than
+before, and, besides much prayer and humiliation, he was to receive a
+_disciplina_ every Friday at the hands of the Prior. This made no
+improvement in his conduct, for in 1321 his behaviour brought him
+another penance and still greater severity. A few years after this the
+Archbishop seems to have reproached the community for the conduct of
+this unruly brother, which was scarcely fair. The last vision of Simon
+Constable shows him to be as impenitent as ever, and the Archbishop
+makes the awful threat that, if he does not reform at once, he will be
+put in a more confined place than he has ever been in before! Can this
+suggest that the wicked canon was to be bricked up alive?
+
+These internal troubles were not, however, generally known to the
+outside world, but the unfaltering searchlight of the records falls upon
+such great folk as Peter de Mauley, fifth Baron Mulgrave, whose castle
+at Mulgrave, near Whitby, is mentioned elsewhere; Lucy de Thweng, wife
+of Sir William le Latimer; Sir Nicholas de Meynyl; and Katherine, wife
+of Sir John Dentorp, whose conduct merely reflected the morals of
+medieval times. It was, indeed, no uncommon event for the congregation
+to hear some high-born culprit confessing his sins as he walked barefoot
+and scantily clothed in the procession in York Minster. An exceedingly
+beautiful crucifix of copper, richly gilded, was discovered during the
+early part of last century, when some men were digging amongst the
+foundations of an old building in Commondale. There seems little doubt
+that this was a cell or chapel belonging to the monastery, for the
+crucifix bears the date 1119, the year of the founding of Guisborough
+Priory. Another metal crucifix, probably belonging to the thirteenth
+century, was discovered at Ingleby Arncliffe. It was beautifully inlaid
+with brilliant white, green, red, and blue enamels, and the figure of
+Christ was discovered to be hollow, and to contain two ancient
+parchments, written in monkish Latin and scarcely legible. One of them
+was a charm, addressed to 'ye elves, and demons and all kind of
+apparition,' who were called upon in the name of the Trinity, the Virgin
+Mary, the Apostles, Martyrs, Mark, Matthew, Luke, and John, and the
+elect generally, to 'hurt not this servant of God, Adam Osanna, by night
+nor by day, but that, through the very great mercy of God Jesus Christ,
+by the help of Saint Mary, the mother of our Lord Jesus Christ, he may
+rest in peace from all the aforesaid and other evils.'
+
+Another intensely interesting relic of the great priory is the
+altar-tomb, believed to be that of Robert de Brus of Annandale. The
+stone slabs are now built into the walls on each side of the porch of
+Guisborough Church. They may have been removed there from the abbey for
+safety at the time of the dissolution. Hemingburgh, in his chronicle for
+the year 1294, says: 'Robert de Brus the fourth died on the eve of Good
+Friday; who disputed with John de Balliol, before the King of England,
+about the succession to the kingdom of Scotland. And, as he ordered when
+alive, he was buried in the priory of Gysburn with great honour, beside
+his own father.' A great number of other famous people were buried here
+in accordance with their wills. Guisborough has even been claimed as the
+resting-place of Robert Bruce, the champion of Scottish freedom, but
+there is ample evidence for believing that his heart was buried at
+Melrose Abbey and his body in the church of Dunfermline.
+
+The memory of Mr. George Venables--that most excellent man who devoted
+many years to gathering funds for a charity school in the town--is
+preserved on a monument in the church. He had retired from business,
+but, in order to find the means to start the school, he resumed his
+labours in London, and devoted the whole of the profits to this
+useful object.
+
+The central portion of the town of Guisborough, by the market-cross and
+the two chief inns, is quaint and fairly picturesque, but the long
+street as it goes westward deteriorates into rows of new cottages,
+inevitable in a mining country.
+
+Mining operations have been carried on around Guisborough since the time
+of Queen Elizabeth, for the discovery of alum dates from that period,
+and when that industry gradually declined, it was replaced by the
+iron-mines of to-day. Mr. Thomas Chaloner of Guisborough, in his travels
+on the Continent about the end of the sixteenth century, saw the Pope's
+alum-works near Rome, and was determined to start the industry in his
+native parish of Guisborough, feeling certain that alum could be worked
+with profit in his own county. As it was essential to have one or two
+men who were thoroughly versed in the processes of the manufacture, Mr.
+Chaloner induced some of the Pope's workmen by heavy bribes to come to
+England. The risks attending this overt act were terrible, for the
+alum-works brought in a large revenue to His Holiness, and the discovery
+of such a design would have meant capital punishment to the offender.
+The workmen were therefore induced to get into large casks, which were
+secretly conveyed on board a ship that was shortly sailing for England.
+
+When the Pope received the intelligence some time afterwards, he
+thundered forth against Mr. Chaloner and the workmen the most awful and
+comprehensive curse. They were to be cursed most wholly and thoroughly
+in every part of their bodies, every saint was to curse them, and from
+the thresholds of the holy church of God Almighty they were to be
+sequestered, that they might 'be tormented, disposed of, and delivered
+over with Dathan and Abiram, and with those who say unto the Lord God,
+"Depart from us; we desire not to know Thy ways."'
+
+Despite the fearful nature of the curse, the venture prospered so much
+that the Darcy family, about the year 1600, set up another works in the
+neighbourhood of Guisborough; and as this also brought considerable
+wealth to the owners, a third was started at Sandsend in 1615. Many
+others followed, and in 1649 Sir Hugh Cholmley started the works close
+to Saltwick Nab, within a short distance of his house at Whitby. But
+although there must have been more than twenty of these works in
+operation in the eighteenth century, owing to cheaper methods of
+producing alum the industry is now quite extinct in Cleveland.
+
+The broad valley stretching from Guisborough to the sea contains the
+beautifully wooded park of Skelton Castle. The trees in great masses
+cover the gentle slopes on either side of the Skelton Beck, and almost
+hide the modern mansion. The buildings include part of the ancient
+castle of the Bruces, who were Lords of Skelton for many years. It is
+recorded that Peter de Brus, one of the barons who helped to coerce John
+into signing the Great Charter at Runnymede, made a curious stipulation
+when he granted some lands at Leconfield to Henry Percy, his sister's
+husband. The property was to be held on condition that every Christmas
+Day he and his heirs should come to Skelton Castle and lead the lady by
+the arm from her chamber to the chapel.
+
+The old church of Upleatham, standing by the road to Saltburn, is a
+quaint fragment of a Norman building. The tower, bearing the inscription
+'William Crow, Chvrchwarden Bvlded Stepel--1664,' is an addition to what
+is probably only part of the nave of the little Norman building. It is
+now used merely as a cemetery chapel, but it is picturesquely situated,
+and on the north wall the carved Norman corbels may still be seen.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+FROM PICKERING TO RIEVAULX ABBEY
+
+
+The broad Vale of Pickering, watered by the Derwent, the Rye, and their
+many tributaries, is a wonderful contrast to the country we have been
+exploring. The level pastures, where cattle graze and cornfields abound,
+seem to suggest that we are separated from the heather by many leagues;
+but we have only to look beyond the hedgerows to see that the horizon to
+the north is formed by lofty moors only a few miles distant.
+
+Just where the low meadows are beginning to rise steadily from the vale
+stands the town of Pickering, dominated by the lofty stone spire of its
+parish church and by the broken towers of the castle. There is a wide
+street, bordered by dark stone buildings, that leads steeply from the
+river to the church. The houses are as a rule quite featureless, but we
+have learnt to expect this in a county where stone is abundant, for only
+the extremely old and the palpably new buildings stand Christ. Then
+comes Herod's feast, with the King labelled _Herodi_. The guests are
+shown with their arms on the table in the most curious positions, and
+all the royal folk are wearing ermine. The coronation of the Virgin, the
+martyrdom of St. Thomas a Becket, and the martyrdom of St. Edmund, who
+is perforated with arrows, complete the series on the north side. Along
+the south wall the paintings show the story of St. Catherine of
+Alexandria and the seven Corporal Acts of Mercy. Further on come scenes
+from the life of our Lord. There seems little doubt that all the
+paintings, including a number of others in the transepts and elsewhere
+that are now destroyed, were whitewashed over at the time of the
+Reformation, and it was during some restoration work carried out in 1851
+that indications of the paintings were accidentally laid bare. When the
+whole of the walls had been cleaned, careful coloured drawings were
+made, then colour wash was applied again, and the priceless paintings
+disappeared for a generation. The objections to what had been considered
+improper wall decoration for a parish church in the nineteenth century
+having been reasoned away, the pictures once more appeared, but in a
+very different condition to their first resurrection. However, the
+drawings were in existence, so that a careful restoration was possible,
+and as we see them to-day the subdued tones closely follow the
+original colours.
+
+The simple Norman arcade on the north side of the nave has plain round
+columns and semicircular arches, but the south side belongs to later
+Norman times, and has ornate columns and capitals. At least one member
+of the great Bruce family, who had a house at Pickering called Bruce's
+Hall, and whose ascendency at Guisborough has already been mentioned,
+was buried here, for the figure of a knight in chain-mail by the lectern
+probably represents Sir William Bruce. In the chapel there is a
+sumptuous monument bearing the effigies of Sir David and Dame Margery
+Roucliffe. The knight wears the collar of S.S., and his arms are on
+his surcoat.
+
+When John Leland, the 'Royal Antiquary' employed by Henry VIII., came to
+Pickering, he described the castle, which was in a more perfect state
+than it is to-day. He says: 'In the first Court of it be a 4 Toures, of
+the which one is Caullid Rosamunde's Toure.' Also of the inner court he
+writes of '4 Toures, wherof the Kepe is one.' This keep and Rosamund's
+Tower, as well as the ruins of some of the others, are still to be seen
+on the outer walls, so that from some points of view the ruins are
+dignified and picturesque. The area enclosed was large, and in early
+times the castle must have been almost impregnable. But during the Civil
+War it was much damaged by the soldiers quartered there, and Sir Hugh
+Cholmley took lead, wood, and iron from it for the defence of
+Scarborough. The wide view from the castle walls shows better than any
+description the importance of the position it occupied, and we feel, as
+we gaze over the vale or northwards to the moors, that this was the
+dominant power over the whole countryside.
+
+Although Lastingham is not on the road to Helmsley, the few additional
+miles will scarcely be counted when we are on our way to a church which,
+besides being architecturally one of the most interesting in the county,
+is perhaps unique in having at one time had a curate whose wife kept a
+public house adjoining the church. Although this will scarcely be
+believed, we have a detailed account of the matter in a little book
+published in 1806.
+
+The clergyman, whose name was Carter, had to subsist on the slender
+salary of �20 a year and a few surplice fees. This would not have
+allowed any margin for luxuries in the case of a bachelor; but this poor
+man was married, and he had thirteen children. He was a keen fisherman,
+and his angling in the moorland streams produced a plentiful supply of
+fish--in fact, more than his family could consume. But this, even though
+he often exchanged part of his catches with neighbours, was not
+sufficient to keep the wolf from the door, and drastic measures had to
+be taken. The parish was large, and, as many of the people were obliged
+to come 'from ten to fifteen miles' to church, it seemed possible that
+some profit might be made by serving refreshments to the parishioners.
+Mrs. Carter superintended this department, and it seems that the meals
+between the services soon became popular. But the story of 'a
+parson-publican' was soon conveyed to the Archdeacon of the diocese, who
+at the next visitation endeavoured to find out the truth of the matter.
+Mr. Carter explained the circumstances, and showed that, far from being
+a source of disorder, his wife's public-house was an influence for good.
+'I take down my violin,' he continued, 'and play them a few tunes, which
+gives me an opportunity of seeing that they get no more liquor than
+necessary for refreshment; and if the young people propose a dance, I
+seldom answer in the negative; nevertheless, when I announce time for
+return, they are ever ready to obey my commands.' The Archdeacon appears
+to have been a broad-minded man, for he did not reprimand Mr. Carter at
+all; and as there seems to have been no mention of an increased stipend,
+the parson-publican must have continued this strange anomaly.
+
+It is difficult to say whether the public-house was conducted in the
+crypt beneath the church or not. I am inclined to think that Mrs.
+Carter's inn was the present 'Blacksmith's Arms,' but there is distinct
+evidence for stating that cock-fighting used to take place secretly in
+the crypt. The writings of the Venerable Bede give a special interest to
+Lastingham, for he tells us how King Oidilward requested Bishop Cedd to
+build a monastery there. The Saxon buildings that appeared at that time
+have gone, so that the present church cannot be associated with the
+seventh century. No doubt the destruction was the work of the Danes, who
+plundered the whole of this part of Yorkshire. The church that exists
+to-day is of Transitional Norman date, and the beautiful little crypt,
+which has an apse, nave and aisles, is coeval with the superstructure.
+
+The situation of Lastingham in a deep and picturesque valley surrounded
+by moors and overhung by woods is extremely rich.
+
+Further to the west there are a series of beautiful dales, watered by
+becks whose sources are among the Cleveland Hills. On our way to
+Ryedale, the loveliest of these, we pass through Kirby Moorside, a
+little town which has gained a place in history as the scene of the
+death of the notorious George Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham, on
+April 17, 1687. The house in which he died is on the south side of the
+King's Head, and in one of the parish registers there is the entry under
+the date of April 19th, 'Gorges viluas, Lord dooke of Bookingam, etc.'
+Further down the street stands an inn with a curious porch, supported by
+turned wooden pillars, bearing the inscription:
+
+
+  'Anno: Dom 1632 October xi
+   William Wood'
+
+
+Kirkdale, with its world-renowned cave, to which we have already
+referred, lies about two miles to the west. The quaint little Saxon
+church there is one of the few bearing evidences of its own date,
+ascertained by the discovery in 1771 of a Saxon sundial, which had
+survived under a layer of plaster, and was also protected by the porch.
+A translation of the inscription reads: 'Orm, the son of Gamal, bought
+St. Gregory's Minster when it was all broken and fallen, and he caused
+it to be made anew from the ground, for Christ and St. Gregory, in the
+days of King Edward and in the days of Earl Tosti, and Hawarth wrought
+me and Brand the prior (priest or priests).' By this we are plainly told
+that a church was built there in the reign of Edward the Confessor.
+
+A pleasant road leads through Nawton to the beautiful little town of
+Helmsley. A bend of the broad, swift-flowing Rye forms one boundary of
+the place, and is fed by a gushing brook that finds its way from
+Rievaulx Moor, and forms a pretty feature of the main street. The
+cottages in many cases have preserved their thatched roofs, and have
+seldom more than one story; but they invariably appear well preserved
+and carefully painted, although these stone-built houses, with leaded
+casements, give little scope for ornament. But the Helmsley folk have
+realized the importance of white paint, and the window-frames, and even
+the strips of lead that hold the glass together, are picked out in this
+cheerful fashion. In the broad market-square the houses are large, but
+their gray respectability is broken by creepers and some pleasant spots
+of colour. The corner nearest to the church is particularly noticeable
+on account of a most picturesque gabled house, with a timber-framed
+upper floor--a style of construction exceedingly rare in these parts of
+Yorkshire. The old stone cross, raised above its worn steps, stands in
+the open space close to the modern market hall, and humbly allows the
+central position to be occupied by a Gothic cross recently erected to
+the memory of the late Lord Feversham, of Duncombe Park.
+
+A narrow turning by the market-house shows the torn and dishevelled
+fragment of the keep of Helmsley Castle towering above the thatched
+roofs in the foreground. The ruin is surrounded by tall elms, and from
+this point of view, when backed by a cloudy sunset, makes a wonderful
+picture. Like Scarborough, this stronghold was held for the King during
+the Civil War. After the Battle of Marston Moor and the fall of York,
+Fairfax came to Helmsley and invested the castle. He received a wound in
+the shoulder during the siege; but the garrison having surrendered on
+honourable terms, the Parliament ordered that the castle should be
+dismantled, and the thoroughness with which the instructions were
+carried out remind one of Knaresborough, for one side of the keep was
+blown to pieces by a terrific explosion and nearly everything else was
+destroyed.
+
+All the beauty and charm of this lovely district is accentuated in
+Ryedale, and when we have accomplished the three long uphill miles to
+Rievaulx, and come out upon the broad grassy terrace above the abbey,
+we seem to have entered a Land of Beulah. We see a peaceful valley
+overlooked on all sides by lofty hills, whose steep sides are clothed
+with luxuriant woods; we see the Rye flowing past broad green meadows;
+and beneath the tree-covered precipice below our feet appear the
+solemn, roofless remains of one of the first Cistercian monasteries
+established in this country. There is nothing to disturb the peace that
+broods here, for the village consists of a mere handful of old and
+picturesque cottages, and we might stay on the terrace for hours, and,
+beyond the distant shouts of a few children at play and the crowing of
+some cocks, hear nothing but the hum of insects and the singing of
+birds. We take a steep path through the wood which leads us down to the
+abbey ruins.
+
+The magnificent Early English choir and the Norman transepts stand
+astonishingly complete in their splendid decay, and the lower portions
+of the nave, which, until 1922, lay buried beneath masses of
+grass-grown d�bris, are now exposed to view. The richly-draped
+hill-sides appear as a succession of beautiful pictures framed by the
+columns and arches on each side of the choir. As they stand exposed to
+the weather, the perfectly proportioned mouldings, the clustered
+pillars in a wonderfully good state of preservation, and the almost
+uninjured celestory are more impressive than in an elaborately-restored
+cathedral.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Yorkshire--Coast & Moorland Scenes, by Gordon Home
+
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+
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+  <head>
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Yorkshire Coast and Moorland Scenes, by
+      Gordon Home.
+    </title>
+    <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve">
+    
+    body { margin:5%; background:#faebd7; text-align:justify}
+    P { text-indent: 2em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; }
+    H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; }
+    hr  { width: 50%; text-align: center;}
+    .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; }
+    blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;}
+    .mynote    {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;}
+    .toc       { margin-left: 20%; margin-bottom: .75em;}
+    .toc2      { margin-left: 25%;}
+    div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; }
+    pre     { font-family: Times; font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;}
+
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+  </head>
+  <body>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+
+Project Gutenberg's Yorkshire--Coast &amp; Moorland Scenes, by Gordon Home
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Yorkshire--Coast &amp; Moorland Scenes
+
+Author: Gordon Home
+
+Release Date: January 22, 2004 [EBook #10795]
+Last Updated: October 22, 2012
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YORKSHIRE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Ted Garvin, Ginny Brewer and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+    <h1>
+      YORKSHIRE COAST<br />AND MOORLAND SCENES
+    </h1>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <h3>
+      Painted and Described By
+    </h3>
+    <h2>
+      GORDON HOME
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <h4>
+      <i>Second Edition</i>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <h3>
+      1907
+    </h3>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <h4>
+      <i>First Edition published April 26, 1904<br /><br /> Second Edition
+      published April, 1907</i>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="003 (69K)" src="images/003.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br /> <br /><br /> <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      PREFACE
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      It may seem almost superfluous to explain that this book does not deal
+      with the whole of Yorkshire, for it would obviously be impossible to get
+      even a passing glimpse of such a great tract of country in a book of this
+      nature. But I have endeavoured to give my own impressions of much of the
+      beautiful coast-line, and also some idea of the character of the moors and
+      dales of the north-east portion of the county.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have described the Dale Country in a companion volume to this, entitled
+      'Yorkshire Dales and Fells.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      GORDON HOME. EPSOM, 1907. <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      Contents
+    </h2>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH3"> CHAPTER I&mdash;&mdash;ACROSS THE MOORS FROM
+      PICKERING TO WHITBY </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH4"> CHAPTER II&mdash;&mdash;ALONG THE ESK VALLEY </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH5"> CHAPTER III&mdash;&mdash;THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO
+      REDCAR </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH6"> CHAPTER IV&mdash;&mdash;THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO
+      SCARBOROUGH </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH7"> CHAPTER V&mdash;&mdash;SCARBOROUGH </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH8"> CHAPTER VI&mdash;&mdash;WHITBY </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#linkch7"> CHAPTER VII&mdash;&mdash;THE CLEVELAND HILLS </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH9"> CHAPTER VIII&mdash;&mdash;GUISBOROUGH AND THE
+      SKELTON VALLEY </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH10"> CHAPTER IX&mdash;&mdash;FROM PICKERING TO RIEVAULX
+      ABBEY </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /> Note: The illustrations from this book were not provided with titles<br />
+      or descriptions. The reader may guess their proper location as well or<br />
+      better than eBook editor who scattered them randomly through the text.<br />
+    </p>
+    <table summary="">
+      <tr>
+        <td>
+          1. On Barnby Moor<br /> 2. Goathland Moor<br /> 3. An Autumn Scene on
+          the Esk<br /> 4. Sleights Moor from Swart Houc Cross<br /> 5. A Stormy
+          Afternoon<br /> 6. East Row, Sandsend<br /> 7. In Mulgrave Woods<br /> 8.
+          Runswick Bay<br /> 9. A Sunny Afternoon at Runswick<br /> 10. Sunrise
+          from Staithes Beck<br /> 11. Three Generations at Staithes<br /> 12.
+          Boulby Cliffs from Staithes Scaur<br /> 13. The Coast at Saltburn<br />
+          14. Whitby Abbey from the Cliffs<br /> 15. Robin Hood's Bay<br /> 16. A
+          Street in Robin Hood's Bay<br /> 17. Scarborough Harbour and Castle<br />
+          18. Sunlight and Shadows in Whitby Harbour<br /> 19. The Red Roofs of
+          Whitby<br /> 20. Evening at Whitby<br /> 21. The Cleveland Hills from
+          above Kildale<br /> 22. Hutton Woods, near Guisborough<br /> 23. A Wide
+          Expanse of Heather seen from Great Ayton Moor<br /> 24. A Golden
+          Afternoon, Danby<br /> 25. A Sunset from Danby Beacon<br /> 26. An
+          Autumn Day at Guisborough<br /> 27. A Yorkshire Postman<br /> 28. The
+          Skelton Valley<br /> 29. In Pickering Church<br /> 30. The Market-place,
+          Helmsley<br /> 31. Rievaulx Abbey from 'The Terrace'<br />
+        </td>
+      </tr>
+    </table>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br /><br /><br /> <a name="link2HCH3" id="link2HCH3">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER I<br />ACROSS THE MOORS FROM PICKERING TO WHITBY
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ancient stone-built town of Pickering is to a great extent the gateway
+      to the moors of Northeastern Yorkshire, for it stands at the foot of that
+      formerly inaccessible gorge known as Newton Dale, and is the meeting-place
+      of the four great roads running north, south, east, and west, as well as
+      of railways going in the same directions. And this view of the little town
+      is by no means original, for the strategic importance of the position was
+      recognised at least as long ago as the days of the early Edwards, when the
+      castle was built to command the approach to Newton Dale and to be a menace
+      to the whole of the Vale of Pickering.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="001 (77K)" src="images/001.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The old-time traveller from York to Whitby saw practically nothing of
+      Newton Dale, for the great coach-road bore him towards the east, and then,
+      on climbing the steep hill up to Lockton Low Moor, he went almost due
+      north as far as Sleights. But to-day everyone passes right through the
+      gloomy canyon, for the railway now follows the windings of Pickering Beck,
+      and nursemaids and children on their way to the seaside may gaze at the
+      frowning cliffs which seventy years ago were only known to travellers and
+      a few shepherds. But although this great change has been brought about by
+      railway enterprise, the gorge is still uninhabited, and has lost little of
+      its grandeur; for when the puny train, with its accompanying white cloud,
+      has disappeared round one of the great bluffs, there is nothing left but
+      the two pairs of shining rails, laid for long distances almost on the
+      floor of the ravine. But though there are steep gradients to be climbed,
+      and the engine labours heavily, there is scarcely sufficient time to get
+      any idea of the astonishing scenery from the windows of the train, and you
+      can see nothing of the huge expanses of moorland stretching away from the
+      precipices on either side. So that we, who would learn something of this
+      region, must make the journey on foot; for a bicycle would be an
+      encumbrance when crossing the heather, and there are many places where a
+      horse would be a source of danger. The sides of the valley are closely
+      wooded for the first seven or eight miles north of Pickering, but the
+      surrounding country gradually loses its cultivation, at first gorse and
+      bracken, and then heather, taking the place of the green pastures.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the village of Newton, perched on high ground far above the dale, we
+      come to the limit of civilization. The sun is nearly setting. The cottages
+      are scattered along the wide roadway and the strip of grass, broken by two
+      large ponds, which just now reflect the pale evening sky. Straight in
+      front, across the green, some ancient barns are thrown up against the
+      golden sunset, and the long perspective of white road, the geese, and some
+      whitewashed gables, stand out from the deepening tones of the grass and
+      trees. A footpath by the inn leads through some dewy meadows to the woods,
+      above Levisham Station in the valley below. At first there are glimpses of
+      the lofty moors on the opposite side of the dale, where the sides of the
+      bluffs are still glowing in the sunset light; but soon the pathway plunges
+      steeply into a close wood, where the foxes are barking, and where the
+      intense darkness is only emphasized by the momentary illumination given by
+      lightning, which now and then flickers in the direction of Lockton Moor.
+      At last the friendly little oil-lamps on the platform at Levisham Station
+      appear just below, and soon the railway is crossed and we are mounting the
+      steep road on the opposite side of the valley. What is left of the waning
+      light shows the rough track over the heather to High Horcum. The huge
+      shoulders of the moors are now majestically indistinct, and towards the
+      west the browns, purples, and greens are all merged in one unfathomable
+      blackness. The tremendous silence and the desolation become almost
+      oppressive, but overhead the familiar arrangement of the constellations
+      gives a sense of companionship not to be slighted. In something less than
+      an hour a light glows in the distance, and, although the darkness is now
+      complete, there is no further need to trouble ourselves with the thought
+      of spending the night on the heather. The point of light develops into a
+      lighted window, and we are soon stamping our feet on the hard, smooth road
+      in front of the Saltersgate Inn. The door opens straight into a large
+      stone-flagged room. Everything is redolent of coaching days, for the
+      cheery glow of the fire shows a spotlessly clean floor, old high-backed
+      settles, a gun hooked to one of the beams overhead, quaint chairs and oak
+      stools, and a fox's mask and brush. A gamekeeper is warming himself at the
+      fire, for the evening is chilly, and the firelight falls on his box-cloth
+      gaiters and heavy boots, as we begin to talk of the loneliness and the
+      dangers of the moors, and of the snowstorms in winter, that almost bury
+      the low cottages and blot out all but the boldest landmarks. Soon we are
+      discussing the superstitions which still survive among the simple
+      country-folk, and the dark and lonely wilds we have just left make this a
+      subject of great fascination.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="004 (78K)" src="images/004.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Although we have heard it before, we hear over again with intense interest
+      the story of the witch who brought constant ill-luck to a family in these
+      parts. Their pigs were never free from some form of illness, their cows
+      died, their horses lamed themselves, and even the milk was so far under
+      the spell that on churning-days the butter refused to come unless helped
+      by a crooked sixpence. One day, when as usual they had been churning in
+      vain, instead of resorting to the sixpence, the farmer secreted himself in
+      an outbuilding, and, gun in hand, watched the garden from a small opening.
+      As it was growing dusk he saw a hare coming cautiously through the hedge.
+      He fired instantly, the hare rolled over, dead, and almost as quickly the
+      butter came. That same night they heard that the old woman, whom they had
+      long suspected of bewitching them, had suddenly died at the same time as
+      the hare, and henceforward the farmer and his family prospered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the light of morning the isolation of the inn is more apparent than at
+      night. A compact group of stable buildings and barns stands on the
+      opposite side of the road, and there are two or three lonely-looking
+      cottages, but everywhere else the world is purple and brown with ling and
+      heather. The morning sun has just climbed high enough to send a flood of
+      light down the steep hill at the back of the barns, and we can hear the
+      hum of the bees in the heather. In the direction of Levisham is Gallows
+      Dyke, the great purple bluff we passed in the darkness, and a few yards
+      off the road makes a sharp double bend to get up Saltersgate Brow, the
+      hill that overlooks the enormous circular bowl of Horcum Hole, where
+      Levisham Beck rises. The farmer whose buildings can be seen down below
+      contrives to paint the bottom of the bowl a bright green, but the ling
+      comes hungrily down on all sides, with evident longings to absorb the
+      scanty cultivation. The Dwarf Cornel, a little mountain-plant which
+      flowers in July, is found in this 'hole.' A few patches have been
+      discovered in the locality, but elsewhere it is not known south of the
+      Cheviots.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="005 (87K)" src="images/005.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Away to the north the road crosses the desolate country like a pale-green
+      ribbon. It passes over Lockton High Moor, climbs to 700 feet at Tom Cross
+      Rigg, and then disappears into the valley of Eller Beck, on Goathland
+      Moor, coming into view again as it climbs steadily up to Sleights Moor,
+      nearly 1,000 feet above the sea. An enormous stretch of moorland spreads
+      itself out towards the west. Near at hand is the precipitous gorge of
+      Upper Newton Dale, backed by Pickering Moor, and beyond are the heights of
+      Northdale Rigg and Rosedale Common, with the blue outlines of Ralph Cross
+      and Danby Head right on the horizon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The smooth, well-built road, with short grass filling the crevices between
+      the stones, urges us to follow its straight course northwards; but the
+      sternest and most remarkable portion of Upper Newton Dale lies to the
+      left, across the deep heather, and we are tempted aside to reach the lip
+      of the sinuous gorge nearly a mile away to the west, where the railway
+      runs along the marshy and boulder-strewn bottom of a natural cutting 500
+      feet deep. The cliffs drop down quite perpendicularly for 200 feet, and
+      the remaining distance to the bed of the stream is a rough slope, quite
+      bare in places, and in others densely grown over with trees; but on every
+      side the fortress-like scarps are as stern and bare as any that face the
+      ocean. Looking north or south the gorge seems completely shut in. There is
+      much the same effect when steaming through the Kyles of Bute, for there
+      the ship seems to be going full speed for the shore of an entirely
+      enclosed sea, and here, saving for the tell-tale railway, there seems no
+      way out of the abyss without scaling the perpendicular walls. The rocks
+      are at their finest at Killingnoble Scar, where they take the form of a
+      semicircle on the west side of the railway. The scar was for a very long
+      period famous for the breed of hawks, which were specially watched by the
+      Goathland men for the use of James I., and the hawks were not displaced
+      from their eyrie even by the incursion of the railway into the glen, and
+      only recently became extinct.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Newton Dale Well, at the foot of the scar, used to attract the country
+      people for miles round, to the fair held there on Midsummer Day, when
+      strange ceremonies were performed in order to insure the beneficent
+      influence of the waters. The custom survived until the beginning of last
+      century, but now it is not easy to even find the position of the well.
+      Very few people living in Whitby or Pickering had any idea of the grandeur
+      of the scenery of Newton Dale when the first official journey was made by
+      railway between the two towns. This was in 1836, but the coaches were
+      drawn by horses on the levels and up the inclines, for it was before the
+      days of the steam-locomotive.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      However, the opening of the line caused great enthusiasm and local
+      excitement, necessitating the services of numbers of policemen to keep the
+      people off the rails. When the separate coaches had been hauled to the
+      highest part of the dale, the horses were detached, and the vehicles were
+      joined up with connecting bars. Then the train was allowed to rush through
+      the pass at what was considered the dangerous speed of twenty miles an
+      hour. For the benefit of those who enjoyed the great pace, the driver
+      allowed the train to go at thirty miles an hour, and then, to show his
+      complete control over the carriages, he applied the brakes and came to a
+      standstill on the steep gradient. But for the existence of the long,
+      narrow ravine right through the heart of these lofty moors, we may
+      reasonably doubt whether Whitby would ever have been joined with York
+      other than by way of the coast-line to Scarborough.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We can cross the line near Eller Beck, and, going over Goathland Moor,
+      explore the wooded sides of Wheeldale Beck and its waterfalls. Mallyan's
+      Spout is the most imposing, having a drop of about 76 feet. The village of
+      Goathland has thrown out skirmishers towards the heather in the form of an
+      ancient-looking but quite modern church, with a low central tower, and a
+      little hotel, stone-built and fitting well into its surroundings. The rest
+      of the village is scattered round a large triangular green, and extends
+      down to the railway, where there is a station named after the village.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The rolling masses of Sleights Moor rise up steeply towards the east, and
+      from the coach-road to Whitby that we deserted at the Saltersgate Inn
+      there is an enormous panorama over Eskdale, Whitby, and the sea.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH4" id="link2HCH4">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER II<br />ALONG THE ESK VALLEY
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To see the valley of the Esk in its richest garb, one must wait for a
+      spell of fine autumn weather, when a prolonged ramble can be made along
+      the riverside and up on the moorland heights above. For the dense
+      woodlands, which are often merely pretty in midsummer, become
+      astonishingly lovely as the foliage draping the steep hillsides takes on
+      its gorgeous colours, and the gills and becks on the moors send down a
+      plentiful supply of water to fill the dales with the music of rushing
+      streams.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="006 (117K)" src="images/006.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Climbing up the road towards Larpool, we take a last look at quaint old
+      Whitby, spread out before us almost like those wonderful old prints of
+      English towns they loved to publish in the eighteenth century. But
+      although every feature is plainly visible&mdash;the church, the abbey, the
+      two piers, the harbour, the old town and the new&mdash;the detail is all
+      lost in that soft mellowness of a sunny autumn day. We find an
+      enthusiastic photographer expending plates on this familiar view, which is
+      sold all over the town; but we do not dare to suggest that the prints,
+      however successful, will be painfully hackneyed, and we go on rejoicing
+      that the questions of stops and exposures need not trouble us, for the
+      world is ablaze with colour.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Beyond the great red viaduct, whose central piers are washed by the river
+      far below, the road plunges into the golden shade of the woods near Cock
+      Mill, and then comes out by the river's bank down below, with the little
+      village of Ruswarp on the opposite shore. The railway goes over the Esk
+      just below the dam, and does its very best to spoil every view of the
+      great mill built in 1752 by Mr. Nathaniel Cholmley. However, from the road
+      towards Sleights the huge building looks picturesque enough, with the
+      river flowing smoothly over the broad dam fringed by the delicate faded
+      greens and browns of the trees. The mill, with its massive roof and
+      projecting eaves, suggests in a most remarkable fashion one of the huge
+      gate-houses of the Chinese Imperial Palace at Peking.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The road follows close beside the winding river, and all the way to
+      Sleights there are lovely glimpses of the shimmering waters, reflecting
+      the overhanging masses of foliage. The golden yellow of a bush growing at
+      the water's edge will be backed by masses of brown woods that here and
+      there have retained suggestions of green, contrasted with the deep purple
+      tones of their shadowy recesses. These lovely phases of Eskdale scenery
+      are denied to the summer visitor, but there are few who would wish to have
+      the riverside solitudes rudely broken into by the passing of boatloads of
+      holiday-makers. Just before reaching Sleights Bridge we leave the
+      tree-embowered road, and, going through a gate, find a stone-flagged
+      pathway that climbs up the side of the valley with great deliberation, so
+      that we are soon at a great height, with a magnificent sweep of landscape
+      towards the south-west, and the keen air blowing freshly from the great
+      table-land of Egton High Moor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="007 (116K)" src="images/007.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little higher, and we are on the road in Aislaby village. The steep
+      climb from the river and railway has kept off those modern influences
+      which have made Sleights and Grosmont architecturally depressing, and thus
+      we find a simple village on the edge of the heather, with picturesque
+      stone cottages and pretty gardens, free from companionship with the
+      painfully ugly modern stone house, with its thin slate roof. The big house
+      of the village stands on the very edge of the descent, surrounded by high
+      trees now swept bare of leaves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The first time I visited Aislaby I reached the little hamlet when it was
+      nearly dark. Sufficient light, however, remained in the west to show up
+      the large house standing in the midst of the swaying branches. One dim
+      light appeared in the blue-gray mass, and the dead leaves were blown
+      fiercely by the strong gusts of wind. On the other side of the road stood
+      an old gray house, whose appearance that gloomy evening well supported the
+      statement that it was haunted. The classic front appeared behind an
+      imposing gateway approached by a curious flat bridge across a circular
+      pond which had a solid stone edging. The low parapets of the bridge were
+      cut into a strange serpentine form. I gazed at the front of the house,
+      backed by the dim outline of the moor beyond; but, though the place was
+      silent enough, I could hear no strange sounds, and the windows remained
+      black and impassive.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I left the village in the gathering gloom and was soon out on the heather.
+      Away on the left, but scarcely discernible, was Swart Houe Cross, on Egton
+      Low Moor, and straight in front lay the Skelder Inn. A light gleamed from
+      one of the lower windows, and by it I guided my steps, being determined to
+      partake of tea before turning my steps homeward. I stepped into the little
+      parlour, with its sanded floor, and demanded 'fat rascals' and tea. The
+      girl was not surprised at my request, for the hot turf cakes supplied at
+      the inn are known to all the neighbourhood by this unusual name, although
+      they are not particularly fat, and are so extremely palatable that one
+      would gladly call them by a friendlier name.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="008 (112K)" src="images/008.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But though the gloom of an autumn evening emphasizes the loneliness of the
+      inn, it blots out the beautiful views which extend in every direction over
+      dales and woodland, as well as the sea and moors. Whitby shows itself
+      beyond the windmill as a big town dominated by a great rectangular
+      building looking as much like a castle as an hotel, the abbey being less
+      conspicuous from here than from most points of view. Northwards are the
+      dense woods at Mulgrave, the coast as far as Kettleness, and the wide,
+      almost limitless moors in the direction of Guisborough. The road to that
+      ancient town goes straight up the hill past Swart Houe Cross, which forms
+      the horizon in the picture reproduced as the frontispiece of this volume.
+      Up on that high ground you can see right across the valley of the Esk in
+      both directions. The course of the river itself is hidden by the shoulders
+      of Egton Low Moor beneath us, but faint sounds of the shunting of trucks
+      are carried up to the heights. Even when the deep valleys are warmest, and
+      when their atmosphere is most suggestive of a hot-house, these moorland
+      heights rejoice in a keen, dry air, which seems to drive away the
+      slightest sense of fatigue, so easily felt on the lower levels, and to
+      give in its place a vigour that laughs at distance. Up here, too, the
+      whole world seems left to Nature, the levels of cultivation being almost
+      out of sight, and anything under 800 feet seems low. Towards the end of
+      August the heights are capped with purple, although the distant moors,
+      however brilliant they may appear when close at hand, generally assume
+      more delicate shades, fading into grays and blues on the horizon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But however much the moors may attract us, we started out with the
+      intention of seeing something of Eskdale. We will therefore take a turning
+      out of the Guisborough road, and go down the hill to Egton village, where
+      there is a church with some Norman pillars and arches preserved from the
+      rebuilding craze that despoiled Yorkshire of half its ecclesiastical
+      antiquities. Making our way along the riverside to Grosmont, we come to
+      the enormous heaps above the pits of the now disused iron-mines. This was
+      the birthplace of the Cleveland Ironworks, and Grosmont was at one time
+      more famous than Middlesbrough. The first cargo of ironstone was sent from
+      here in 1836, when the Pickering and Whitby Railway was opened. However
+      interesting Grosmont may sound in books, it is a dull place; for the
+      knowledge that the name was originally Grandimont, from the small priory
+      founded about 1200, and named after the abbey in Normandy to which it was
+      attached, does not excite much interest when there is nothing to see but a
+      farmhouse on the site, and the modern place consists of a
+      railway-junction, some deserted mines, and many examples of the modern
+      Yorkshire house.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Everything that Nature can do to make amends for this uninteresting spot
+      is lavishly squandered upon the valley, for wherever man has left things
+      alone there are heavy canopies of foliage, and mossy boulders among the
+      rushing streams; and if you will but take the trouble to climb up to the
+      heather, even the mines are dwarfed into insignificance. We will go up the
+      steep road to the top of Sleights Moor. It is a long stiff climb of nearly
+      900 feet, but the view is one of the very finest in this country, where
+      wide expanses soon become commonplace. We are sufficiently high to look
+      right across Fylingdales Moor to the sea beyond, a soft haze of pearly
+      blue over the hard, rugged outline of the ling. Away towards the north,
+      too, the landscape for many miles is limited only by the same horizon of
+      sea, so that we seem to be looking at a section of a very large scale
+      contour map of England. Below us on the western side runs the Mirk Esk,
+      draining the heights upon which we stand as well as Egton High Moor and
+      Wheeldale Moor. The confluence with the Esk at Grosmont is lost in a haze
+      of smoke and a confusion of roofs and railway-lines; and the course of the
+      larger river in the direction of Glaisdale is also hidden behind the steep
+      slopes of Egton High Moor. Towards the south we gaze over a vast
+      desolation, crossed by the coach-road to York as it rises and falls over
+      the swells of the heather. The queer isolated cone of Blakey Topping and
+      the summit of Gallows Dyke, close to Saltersgate, appear above the distant
+      ridges.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="009 (107K)" src="images/009.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The route of the great Roman road from the South to Dunsley Bay can also
+      be seen from these heights. It passes straight through Cawthorn Camp, on
+      the ridge to the west of the village of Newton, and then runs along within
+      a few yards of the by-road from Picketing to Egton. It crosses Wheeldale
+      Beck, and skirts the ancient dyke round July or Julian Park, at one time a
+      hunting-seat of the great De Mauley family. The road is about 12 feet
+      wide, and is now deep in heather; but it is slightly raised above the
+      general level of the ground, and can therefore be followed fairly easily
+      where it has not been taken up to build walls for enclosures. Of greater
+      antiquity, but much more easily discovered, are the bride stones close at
+      hand on Sleights Moor. Several of the stones have fallen, but three of
+      them are still standing erect, the tallest being 7 feet high. It is not
+      easy to discover any particular form from the standing and recumbent
+      stones, for they neither make a circle nor do they seem to be directed to
+      any particular point of the compass; but it is quite possible that these
+      monoliths were put up by Early Man as a means of recording the seasons, in
+      somewhat the same manner as Stonehenge is an example of the orientated
+      temple of Neolithic times.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If we go down into the valley beneath us by a road bearing south-west, we
+      shall find ourselves at Beck Hole, where there is a pretty group of stone
+      cottages, backed by some tall firs. The Eller Beck is crossed by a stone
+      bridge close to its confluence with the Mirk Esk. Above the bridge, a
+      footpath among the huge boulders winds its way by the side of the rushing
+      beck to Thomasin Foss, where the little river falls in two or three broad
+      silver bands into a considerable pool. Great masses of overhanging rock,
+      shaded by a leafy roof, shut in the brimming waters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is not difficult to find the way from Beck Hole to the Roman camp on
+      the hillside towards Egton Bridge. The Roman road from Cawthorn goes right
+      through it, but beyond this it is not easy to trace, although fragments
+      have been discovered as far as Aislaby, all pointing to Dunsley or
+      Sandsend Bay. Round the shoulder of the hill we come down again to the
+      deeply-wooded valley of the Esk. No river can be seen, but when we enter
+      the shade of the trees the sound of many waters fills the air. What was
+      once a thick green roof is now thin and yellow, and under our feet is a
+      yielding carpet of soft brown and orange leaves. Rare and luxuriant mosses
+      grow at the foot of the trees, on dead wood, and on the damp stones, and
+      everywhere the rich woodland scent of decay meets the nostrils. In the
+      midst of all these evidences of rampant natural conditions we come to
+      Glaisdale End, where a graceful stone bridge of a single arch stands over
+      the rushing stream. The initials of the builder and the date appear on the
+      eastern side of what is now known as the Beggar's Bridge. It was formerly
+      called Firris Bridge, after the builder, but the popular interest in the
+      story of its origin seems to have killed the old name. If you ask anyone
+      in Whitby to mention some of the sights of the neighbourhood, he will
+      probably head his list with the Beggar's Bridge, but why this is so I
+      cannot imagine. The woods are very beautiful, but this is a country full
+      of the loveliest dales, and the presence of this single-arched bridge does
+      not seem sufficient to have attracted so much popularity. I can only
+      attribute it to the love interest associated with the beggar. He was, we
+      may imagine, the Alderman Thomas Firris who, as a penniless youth, came to
+      bid farewell to his betrothed, who lived somewhere on the opposite side of
+      the river. Finding the stream impassable, he is said to have determined
+      that if he came back from his travels as a rich man he would put up a
+      bridge on the spot he had been prevented from crossing. It is not a very
+      remarkable story, even if it be true, but it has given the bridge a fame
+      scarcely proportionate to its merits.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH5" id="link2HCH5">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER III<br />THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO REDCAR
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Along the three miles of sand running northwards from Whitby at the foot
+      of low alluvial cliffs, I have seen some of the finest sea-pictures on
+      this part of the coast. But although I have seen beautiful effects at all
+      times of the day, those that I remember more than any others are the early
+      mornings, when the sun was still low in the heavens, when, standing on
+      that fine stretch of yellow sand, one seemed to breathe an atmosphere so
+      pure, and to gaze at a sky so transparent, that some of those undefined
+      longings for surroundings that have never been realized were instinctively
+      uppermost in the mind. It is, I imagine, that vague recognition of
+      perfection which has its effect on even superficial minds when impressed
+      with beautiful scenery, for to what other cause can be attributed the
+      remark one hears, that such scenes 'make one feel good'?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Heavy waves, overlapping one another in their fruitless bombardment of the
+      smooth shelving sand, are filling the air with a ceaseless thunder. The
+      sun, shining from a sky of burnished gold, throws into silhouette the twin
+      lighthouses at the entrance to Whitby Harbour, and turns the foaming
+      wave-tops into a dazzling white, accentuated by the long shadows of early
+      day. Away to the north-west is Sandsend Ness, a bold headland full of
+      purple and blue shadows, and straight out to sea, across the white-capped
+      waves, are two tramp steamers, making, no doubt, for South Shields or some
+      port where a cargo of coal can be picked up. They are plunging heavily,
+      and every moment their bows seem to go down too far to recover.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On mornings when the sea is quieter there are few who can resist the
+      desire to plunge into the blue waters, for at seven o'clock the shore is
+      so entirely deserted that one seems to be bathing from some primeval shore
+      where no other forms of life may be expected than some giant crustaceans.
+      This thought, perhaps, prompted the painful sensations I allowed to prey
+      upon me one night when I was walking along this particular piece of shore
+      from Whitby. I had decided to save time over the road to Sandsend by
+      getting on to the beach at Upgang, where the lifeboat-house stands, by the
+      entrance to a small beck. So dark was the night that I could scarcely be
+      sure that I had not lost my way, until I had carefully felt the walls of
+      the boat-house. Then I stepped cautiously on to the sand, which I
+      discovered as soon as my feet began sinking at every step.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="010 (83K)" src="images/010.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The harbour lights of Whitby were bright enough, but in the other
+      direction I could be sure of nothing. At first I seemed to have made a
+      mistake as to the state of the tide, for there appeared to be a whiteness
+      nearly up to the base of the cliffs; but this proved to be the suffused
+      glow from the lighthouses. Rain had been falling heavily for the last few
+      days, and had produced so many wide streams across the sand that my
+      knowledge of the usual ones merely hampered me. At first I began stepping
+      carefully over large black hollows in the sand, and then a great black
+      mark would show itself, which, offering no resistance to my stick as I
+      drew it across its surface, I could only imagine to be caused by a flood
+      of ink poured upon the beach by some horrible squid. My musings on whether
+      sea-monsters did ever disport themselves on the shore under the cover of
+      sufficiently dark nights would be broken into by discovering that I had
+      plunged into a stream of undiscoverable dimensions, whose existence only
+      revealed itself by the splash of my boots. Retreating cautiously, I would
+      take a run, and then a terrific leap into the darkness, sometimes finding
+      myself on firm dry sand, and as frequently in the water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I had decided that I should probably not reach Sandsend until daylight,
+      when a red lamp near the railway-bridge shone out as a beacon, and I
+      realized that I would soon be safe from the tentacles of sea-monsters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When I awoke next morning, I dashed out on to the beach, and commenced to
+      walk rapidly in the direction of Whitby, in the hope that the tide had
+      left some of those black stains still showing. I wanted, also, to examine
+      some of the queer ridges I had so often stepped over, and some of the
+      rivers I had leapt. The rivers were there wide enough in places, but
+      nothing in the way of a ridge or any signs of those inky patches could I
+      discern. Careful examination showed, however, that here and there the
+      smooth shore was covered with sand of a rather reddish hue, quite unworthy
+      of remark in daylight. The foolishness of my apprehensions seems apparent,
+      but nevertheless I urge everyone to choose a moonlit night and a companion
+      of some sort for traversing these three miles after sunset.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The two little becks finding their outlet at East Row and Sandsend are
+      lovely to-day; but their beauty must have been much more apparent before
+      the North-Eastern Railway put their black lattice girder bridges across
+      the mouth of each valley. But now that familiarity with these bridges,
+      which are of the same pattern across every wooded ravine up the coast-line
+      to Redcar, has blunted my impressions, I can think of the picturesqueness
+      of East Row without remembering the railway. It was in this glen, where
+      Lord Normanby's lovely woods make a background for the pretty tiled
+      cottages, the mill, and the old stone bridge, which make up East Row, that
+      the Saxons chose a home for their god Thor. [Since this was written one or
+      two new houses have been allowed to mar the simplicity of the valley.&mdash;G.
+      H.] Here they built some rude form of temple, afterwards, it seems,
+      converted into a hermitage. This was how the spot obtained the name
+      Thordisa, a name it retained down to 1620, when the requirements of
+      workmen from the newly-started alum-works at Sandsend led to building
+      operations by the side of the stream. The cottages which arose became
+      known afterwards as East Row.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A very little way inland is the village of Dunsley, which may have been in
+      existence in Roman times, for Ptolemy mentions Dunus Sinus as a bay
+      frequently used by the Romans as a landing-place. The foundations of some
+      ancient building can easily be traced in the rough grass at the village
+      cross-roads, now overlooked by a new stone house. But whatever surprises
+      Dunsley may have in store for those who choose to dig in the likely
+      places, the hamlet need not keep one long, for on either hand there is a
+      choice of breezy moorland or the astonishing beauties of Mulgrave Woods.
+      Before I knew this part of Yorkshire, and had merely read of the woods as
+      a sight to be visited from Whitby, I was prepared for something at least
+      as hackneyed as Hayburn Wyke. I was prepared for direction-boards and
+      artificial helps to the charms of certain aspects of the streams. I
+      certainly never anticipated that I should one day sigh for a
+      direction-board in this forest.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="011 (63K)" src="images/011.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was on my second visit to the woods that I determined to find a
+      particularly dramatic portion of one of the streams. My first ramble had
+      been in summer. I had been with one who knew the paths well, but now it
+      was late autumn and I was alone. I explored the paths for hours, and
+      traversed long glades ablaze with red and gold. I peered down through the
+      yellow leaves to the rushing streams below, where I could see the great
+      moss-grown boulders choking the narrow channels. But this particular spot
+      had gone. I was almost in despair, when two labourers by great luck
+      happened to come along one of the tracks. With their help I found the
+      place I was searching for, and the result of the time spent there is given
+      in one of the illustrations to this chapter. Go where you will in
+      Yorkshire, you will find no more fascinating woodland scenery than this.
+      From the broken walls and towers of the old Norman castle the views over
+      the ravines on either hand&mdash;for the castle stands on a lofty
+      promontory in a sea of foliage&mdash;are entrancing; and after seeing the
+      astoundingly brilliant colours with which autumn paints these trees, there
+      is a tendency to find the ordinary woodland commonplace. The narrowest and
+      deepest gorge is hundreds of feet deep in the shale. East Row Beck drops
+      into this canyon in the form of a waterfall at the upper end, and then
+      almost disappears among the enormous rocks strewn along its circumscribed
+      course. The humid, hothouse atmosphere down here encourages the growth of
+      many of the rarer mosses, which entirely cover all but the newly-fallen
+      rocks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We can leave the woods by a path leading near Lord Normanby's modern
+      castle, and come out on to the road close to Lythe Church, where a great
+      view of sea and land is spread out towards the south. The long curving
+      line of white marks the limits of the tide as far as the entrance to
+      Whitby Harbour. The abbey stands out in its loneliness as of yore, and
+      beyond it are the black-looking, precipitous cliffs ending at Saltwick
+      Nab. Lythe Church, standing in its wind-swept graveyard full of blackened
+      tombstones, need not keep us, for, although its much-modernized exterior
+      is simple and ancient-looking, the interior is devoid of any interest. It
+      is the same tale at nearly every village in this district, and to those
+      who are able to grow enthusiastic in antiquarian matters some parts of the
+      county are disappointing. In East Anglia and the southern counties even
+      the smallest hamlets have often a good church, with a conspicuous tower or
+      spire; but in how many villages in this riding do you find no church at
+      all, as in the case of Staithes and Runswick? Many of the old churches of
+      Yorkshire were in a state of great dilapidation at the beginning of last
+      century, and a great effort having been initiated by the then Archbishop,
+      a fund was instituted to help the various parishes to restore their
+      buildings. It was a period when architecture was at a low ebb, and the
+      desire to sweep away antiquity was certainly strong, for those churches
+      not rebuilt from the ground were so hacked and renovated that their
+      interest and picturesqueness has vanished. The churches at Pickering,
+      Middleton, Lastingham, and Kirkdale must, however, be pointed out as
+      priceless exceptions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The road drops down a tremendous hill into Sandsend, where they talk of
+      going 'up t' bonk' to Lythe Church. A little chapel of ease in the village
+      accommodates the old and delicate folk, but the youth and the generally
+      able-bodied of Sandsend must climb the hill every Sunday. The beck forms
+      an island in the village, and the old stone cottages, bright with new
+      paint and neatly-trained creepers, stand in their gardens on either side
+      of the valley in the most picturesque fashion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The walk along the rocky shore to Kettleness is dangerous unless the tide
+      is carefully watched, and the road inland through Lythe village is not
+      particularly interesting, so that one is tempted to use the railway, which
+      cuts right through the intervening high ground by means of two tunnels.
+      The first one is a mile long, and somewhere near the centre has a passage
+      out to the cliffs, so that even if both ends of the tunnel collapsed there
+      would be a way of escape. But this is small comfort when travelling from
+      Kettleness, for the down gradient towards Sandsend is very steep, and in
+      the darkness of the tunnel the train gets up a tremendous speed, bursting
+      into the open just where a precipitous drop into the sea could be most
+      easily accomplished.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The station at Kettleness is on the top of the huge cliffs, and to reach
+      the shore one must climb down a zigzag path. It is a broad and solid
+      pathway until halfway down, where it assumes the character of a
+      goat-track, being a mere treading down of the loose shale of which the
+      enormous cliff is formed. The sliding down of the crumbling rock
+      constantly carries away the path, but a little spade-work soon makes the
+      track firm again. This portion of the cliff has something of a history,
+      for one night in 1829 the inhabitants of many of the cottages originally
+      forming the village of Kettleness were warned of impending danger by
+      subterranean noises. Fearing a subsidence of the cliff, they betook
+      themselves to a small schooner lying in the bay. This wise move had not
+      long been accomplished, when a huge section of the ground occupied by the
+      cottages slid down the great cliff and the next morning there was little
+      to be seen but a sloping mound of lias shale at the foot of the precipice.
+      The villagers recovered some of their property by digging, and some pieces
+      of broken crockery from one of the cottages are still to be seen on the
+      shore near the ferryman's hut, where the path joins the shore.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This sandy beach, lapped by the blue waves of Runswick Bay, is one of the
+      finest spots on the rocky coast-line of Yorkshire. A trickling waterfall
+      drops perpendicularly down the blackish rocks from a considerable height,
+      while above it are the towering cliffs of shale, perfectly bare in one
+      direction, and clothed with grass and bracken in another. At the foot of
+      the rocks a layer of jet appears a few inches above the sand.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="012 (79K)" src="images/012.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      You look northwards across the sunlit sea to the rocky heights hiding Port
+      Mulgrave and Staithes, and on the further side of the bay you see tiny
+      Runswick's red roofs, one above the other, on the face of the cliff. Here
+      it is always cool and pleasant in the hottest weather, and from the broad
+      shadows cast by the precipices above one can revel in the sunny land and
+      sea-scapes without that fishy odour so unavoidable in the villages. When
+      the sun is beginning to climb down the sky in the direction of Hinderwell,
+      and everything is bathed in a glorious golden light, the ferryman will row
+      you across the bay to Runswick, but a scramble over the rocks on the beach
+      will be repaid by a closer view of the now half-filled-up Hob Hole. The
+      fisher-folk believed this cave to be the home of a kindly-disposed fairy
+      or hob, who seems to have been one of the slow-dying inhabitants of the
+      world of mythology implicitly believed in by the Saxons. And these beliefs
+      died so hard in these lonely Yorkshire villages that until recent times a
+      mother would carry her child suffering from whooping-cough along the beach
+      to the mouth of the cave. There she would call in a loud voice, 'Hob-hole
+      Hob! my bairn's gotten t'kink cough. Tak't off, tak't off.' One can see
+      the child's parents gazing fearfully into the black depths of the cavern,
+      penetrating the cliff for 70 feet, and finally turning back to the village
+      in the full belief that the hob would stay the disease.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The steep paths and flights of roughly-built steps that wind above and
+      below the cottages are the only means of getting about in Runswick. The
+      butcher's cart every Saturday penetrates into the centre of the village by
+      the rough track which is all that is left of the good firm road from
+      Hinderwell after it has climbed down the cliff. To this central position,
+      close to the post-box, the householders come to buy their supply of meat
+      for Sunday, having their purchases weighed on scales placed on the flap at
+      the back of the cart. While the butcher is doing his thriving trade the
+      postman arrives to collect letters from the pillar-box, Placing a small
+      horn to his lips, he blows a blast to warn the villagers that the post is
+      going, and, having waited for the last letter, climbs slowly up the steep
+      pathway to Hinderwell.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Halfway up to the top he pauses and looks over the fruit-trees and the
+      tiles and chimney-pots below him, to the bright blue waters of the bay,
+      with Kettleness beyond, now all pink and red in the golden light of late
+      afternoon. This scene is more suggestive of the Mediterranean than
+      Yorkshire, for the blueness of the sea seems almost unnatural, and the
+      golden greens of the pretty little gardens among the houses seem perhaps a
+      trifle theatrical; but the fisher-folk play their parts too well, and
+      there is nothing make-believe about the delicious bread-and-butter and the
+      newly-baked cakes which accompany the tea awaiting us in a spotlessly
+      clean cottage close by.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The same form of disaster which destroyed Kettleness village caused the
+      complete ruin of Runswick in 1666, for one night, when some of the
+      fisher-folk were holding a wake over a corpse, they had unmistakable
+      warnings of an approaching landslip. The alarm was given, and the
+      villagers, hurriedly leaving their cottages, saw the whole place slide
+      downwards and become a mass of ruins. No lives were lost, but, as only one
+      house remained standing, the poor fishermen were only saved from
+      destitution by the sums of money collected for their relief.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Architecturally speaking, Hinderwell is a depressing village, and there is
+      little to remember about the place except an extraordinary block of two or
+      three shops, suitable only for a business street in a big city, but dumped
+      right into the middle of this village of low cottages. The church is
+      modern enough to be uninteresting, but in the graveyard St. Hilda's Well,
+      from which the name Hinderwell is a corruption, may still be seen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In 1603 there was a sudden and terrible outbreak of plague in the village.
+      It only lasted from September 1 to November 10, but in that short time
+      forty-nine people died. It seems that the infection was brought by some
+      men from a 'Turkey ship' that had been stranded on the coast, but,
+      strangely enough, the disease does not appear to have been carried into
+      the other villages in the neighbourhood.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Scarcely two miles from Hinderwell is the fishing-hamlet of Staithes,
+      wedged into the side of a deep and exceedingly picturesque beck. Here&mdash;and
+      it is the same at Runswick&mdash;one is obliged to walk warily during the
+      painter's season, for fear of either obstructing the view of the man
+      behind the easel you have just passed, or out of regard for the feelings
+      of some girls just in front. There are often no more chances of standing
+      still in Staithes than may be enjoyed on a popular golf-links on a fine
+      Saturday afternoon. These folk at Staithes do not disturb one with cries
+      of 'Fore!' but with that blank Chinaman's stare which comes to anyone who
+      paints in public.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The average artist is a being who is quite unable to recognise
+      architectural merit. He sees everything to please him if the background of
+      his group be sufficiently tumble-down and derelict. If this be incorrect,
+      how could such swarms of artistic folk paint and actually lodge in
+      Staithes? The steep road leading past the station drops down into the
+      village, giving a glimpse of the beck crossed by its ramshackle wooden
+      foot-bridge&mdash;the view one has been prepared for by guide-books and
+      picture postcards. Lower down you enter the village street. Here the smell
+      of fish comes out to greet you, and one would forgive the place this
+      overflowing welcome if one were not so shocked at the dismal aspect of the
+      houses on either side of the way. Many are of comparatively recent origin,
+      others are quite new, and a few&mdash;a very few&mdash;are old; but none
+      have any architectural pretensions or any claims to picturesqueness, and
+      only a few have the neat and respectable look one is accustomed to expect
+      after seeing Robin Hood's Bay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Staithes had filled me with so much pleasant expectancy that my first walk
+      down this street of dirty, ugly houses had brought me into a querulous
+      frame of mind, and I wondered irritably why the women should all wear
+      lilac-coloured bonnets, when a choice of colour is not difficult as far as
+      calico is concerned. Those women who were in mourning had dyed theirs
+      black, and these assorted well with the colour of the stone of many of the
+      houses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I hurried down on to the little fish-wharf&mdash;a wooden structure facing
+      the sea&mdash;hoping to find something more cheering in the view of the
+      little bay, with its bold cliffs, and the busy scene where the cobles were
+      drawn up on the shingle. Here my spirits revived, and I began to find
+      excuses for the painters. The little wharf, in a bad state of repair, like
+      most things in the place, was occupied by groups of stalwart fisher-folk,
+      men and women.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The men were for the most part watching their women-folk at work. They
+      were also to an astonishing extent mere spectators in the arduous work of
+      hauling the cobles one by one on to the steep bank of shingle. A tackle
+      hooked to one of the baulks of timber forming the staith was being hauled
+      at by five women and two men! Two others were in a listless fashion
+      leaning their shoulders against the boat itself. With the last 'Heave-ho!'
+      at the shortened tackle the women laid hold of the nets, and with casual
+      male assistance laid them out on the shingle, removed any fragments of
+      fish, and generally prepared them for stowing in the boat again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="013 (97K)" src="images/013.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is evidently an accepted state of things at Staithes that the work of
+      putting out to sea and the actual catching of the fish is sufficient for
+      the men-folk, for the feminine population do their arduous tasks with a
+      methodical matter-of-factness which surprises only the stranger. I was
+      particularly struck on one occasion with the sight of a good-looking and
+      very neatly dressed young fishwife who was engaged in that very necessary
+      but exceedingly unpleasant task of cutting open fish and removing the
+      perishable portions. With unerring precision the sharp knife was plunged
+      into each cod or haddock, and the fish was in its marketable condition in
+      shorter time than one can write. A little boy plunged them into a pail of
+      ruddy-looking water, and from thence into the regulation fish box or
+      basket that finds its way to the Metropolis.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A change has come over the inhabitants of Staithes since 1846, when Mr.
+      Ord describes the fishermen as 'exceedingly civil and courteous to
+      strangers, and altogether free from that low, grasping knavery peculiar to
+      the larger class of fishing-towns.' Without wishing to be unreasonably
+      hard on Staithes, I am inclined to believe that this character is
+      infinitely better than these folk deserve, and even when Mr. Ord wrote of
+      the place I have reason to doubt the civility shown by them to strangers.
+      It is, according to some who have known Staithes for a long while, less
+      than fifty years ago that the fisher-folk were hostile to a stranger on
+      very small provocation, and only the entirely inoffensive could expect to
+      sojourn in the village without being a target for stones. The incursion of
+      the artistic hordes has been a great factor in the demoralization of the
+      village, for who would not be mercenary when besought at all hours of the
+      day to stand before a canvas or a camera? Thus, the harmless stranger who
+      strays on to the staith with a camera is obliged to pay for 'an
+      afternoon's 'baccy' if he want an opportunity to obtain more than a
+      snapshot of a picturesque group. He may try to capture a lonely old
+      fisherman by asking if he would mind standing still for 'just one second,'
+      but the old fellow will move away instantly unless his demand for payment
+      be readily complied with.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      No doubt many of the superstitions of Staithes people have languished or
+      died out in recent years, and among these may be included a particularly
+      primitive custom when the catches of fish had been unusually small. Bad
+      luck of this sort could only be the work of some evil influence, and to
+      break the spell a sheep's heart had to be procured, into which many pins
+      were stuck. The heart was then burnt in a bonfire on the beach, in the
+      presence of the fishermen, who danced round the flames.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In happy contrast to these heathenish practices was the resolution entered
+      into and signed by the fishermen of Staithes, in August, 1835, binding
+      themselves 'on no account whatever' to follow their calling on Sundays,
+      'nor to go out with our boats or cobbles to sea, either on the Saturday or
+      Sunday evenings.' They also agreed to forfeit ten shillings for every
+      offence against the resolution, and the fund accumulated in this way, and
+      by other means, was administered for the benefit of aged couples and
+      widows and orphans.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The men of Staithes are known up and down the east coast of Great Britain
+      as some of the very finest types of fishermen. Their cobles, which vary in
+      size and colour, are uniform in design and the brilliance of their paint.
+      Brick red, emerald green, pungent blue and white, are the most favoured
+      colours, but orange, pink, yellow, and many others, are to be seen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Not only are fish of the present age in evidence at Staithes, but nowhere
+      along this coast can one find better examples of those of the Jurassic
+      period. When the tide has exposed the scaur which runs out from Colburn
+      Nab, at the mouth of the beck, a one can examine masses of recently fallen
+      rocks, the new faces of which are almost invariably covered with ammonites
+      or clusters of fossil bivalves. The only hindrance to a close examination
+      of these new falls from the cliffs is the serious danger of another fall
+      occurring at the same spot. The fisher-folk are very kind in pointing out
+      this peril to ardent geologists and those of a less scientific outlook,
+      who merely enjoy the exercise of scrambling over great masses of rock.
+      After having been warned that most of the face of the cliff above is
+      'qualified' to come down at any moment, there is a strong inclination to
+      betake one's self to a safe distance, where, unfortunately, the wear and
+      tear of the waves have in most cases so battered the traces of early
+      marine life that there is little to attack with the hammer to compare with
+      what can be seen in the new falls. The scaur also presents an interesting
+      feature in its round ironstone nodules, half embedded in the smooth rocky
+      floor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Looking northwards there is a grand piece of coast scenery. The masses of
+      Boulby Cliffs, rising 660 feet from the sea, are the highest on the
+      Yorkshire coast. The waves break all round the rocky scaur, and fill the
+      air with their thunder, while the strong wind blows the spray into beards
+      which stream backwards from the incoming crests.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The upper course of Staithes Beck consists of two streams, flowing through
+      deep, richly-wooded ravines. They follow parallel courses very close to
+      one another for three or four miles, but their sources extend from
+      Lealholm Moor to Wapley Moor. Kilton Beck runs through another lovely
+      valley densely clothed in trees, and full of the richest woodland scenery.
+      It becomes more open in the neighbourhood of Loftus, and from thence to
+      the sea at Skinningrove the valley is green and open to the heavens.
+      Loftus is on the borders of the Cleveland mining district, and it is for
+      this reason that the town has grown to a considerable size. But although
+      the miners' new cottages are unpicturesque, and the church only dates from
+      1811, the situation is pretty, owing to the profusion of trees among the
+      houses. Skinningrove has railway-sidings and branch-lines running down to
+      it, and on the hill above the cottages stands a cluster of blast-furnaces.
+      In daylight they are merely ugly, but at night, with tongues of flame,
+      they speak of the potency of labour. I can still see that strange
+      silhouette of steel cylinders and connecting girders against a blue-black
+      sky, with silent masses of flame leaping into the heavens.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was long before iron-ore was smelted here, before even the old
+      alum-works had been started, that Skinningrove attained to some sort of
+      fame through a wonderful visit, as strange as any of those recounted by
+      Mr. Wells. It was in the year 1535&mdash;for the event is most carefully
+      recorded in a manuscript of the period&mdash;that some fishermen of
+      Skinningrove caught a Sea Man. This was such an astounding fact to record
+      that the writer of the old manuscript explains that 'old men that would be
+      loath to have their credyt crackt by a tale of a stale date, report
+      confidently that ... a <i>sea-man</i> was taken by the fishers.' They took
+      him up to an old disused house, and kept him there for many weeks, feeding
+      him on raw fish, because he persistently refused the other sorts of food
+      offered him. To the people who flocked from far and near to visit him he
+      was very courteous, and he seems to have been particularly pleased with
+      any 'fayre maydes' who visited him, for he would gaze at them with a very
+      earnest countenance, 'as if his phlegmaticke breaste had been touched with
+      a sparke of love.' The Sea Man was so well behaved that the fisher-folk
+      began to feel sufficiently sure of his desire to live with them to cease
+      to keep watch on his movements. 'One day,' we are told, 'he prively stoale
+      out of Doores, and ere he coulde be overtaken recovered the sea, whereinto
+      he plunged himself; yet as one that woulde not unmanerly depart without
+      taking of his leave, from the mydle upwardes he raysed his shoulders often
+      above the waves, and makinge signes of acknowledgeing his good
+      enterteinment to such as beheld him on the shore, as they interpreted yt;&mdash;after
+      a pretty while he dived downe and appeared no more.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This strangely detailed account says that instead of a voice the Sea Man
+      'skreaked,' but this is of small interest compared to whether he had a
+      tail or any fish-like attributes. The fact that he escaped would suggest
+      the presence of legs, but the historian is silent on this all-important
+      matter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The lofty coast-line we have followed all the way from Sandsend terminates
+      abruptly at Huntcliff Nab, the great promontory which is familiar to
+      visitors to Saltburn. Low alluvial cliffs take the place of the rocky
+      precipices, and the coast becomes flatter and flatter as you approach
+      Redcar and the marshy country at the mouth of the Tees. The original
+      Saltburn, consisting of a row of quaint fishermen's cottages, still stands
+      entirely alone, facing the sea on the Huntcliff side of the beck, and from
+      the wide, smooth sands there is little of modern Saltburn to be seen
+      besides the pier. For the rectangular streets and blocks of houses have
+      been wisely placed some distance from the edge of the grassy cliffs,
+      leaving the sea-front quite unspoiled. It would, perhaps, be well to own
+      that I have never seen Saltburn during the summer season, and for this
+      reason I may think better of the resort than if my visit had been in
+      midsummer. It was during October. The sun was shining brightly, and a
+      strong wind was blowing off the land. The wide, new-looking streets were
+      spotlessly clean, and in most of them there was no sign of life at all. It
+      was the same on the broad sweep of sands, for when I commenced a drawing
+      on the cliffs the only living creatures I could see were two small dogs.
+      About noon a girls' school was let loose upon the sands, and for half an
+      hour a furious game of hockey was fought. Then I was left alone again,
+      with the great expanse of sea, the yellow margin of sand, and the
+      reddish-brown cliffs, all beneath the wind-swept sky.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The elaborately-laid-out gardens on the steep banks of Skelton Beck are
+      the pride and joy of Saltburn, for they offer a pleasant contrast to the
+      bare slopes on the Huntcliff side and the flat country towards
+      Kirkleatham. But in this seemingly harmless retreat there used to be heard
+      horrible groanings, and I have no evidence to satisfy me that they have
+      altogether ceased. For in this matter-of-fact age such a story would not
+      be listened to, and thus those who hear the sounds may be afraid to speak
+      of them. The groanings were heard, they say, 'when all wyndes are whiste
+      and the sea restes unmoved as a standing poole.' At times they were so
+      loud as to be heard at least six miles inland, and the fishermen feared to
+      put out to sea, believing that the ocean was 'as a greedy Beaste raginge
+      for Hunger, desyers to be satisfyed with men's carcases.' There were also
+      at that time certain rocks towards Huntcliff Nab, left bare at low-tide,
+      where 'Seales in greate Heardes like Swine' were to be seen basking in the
+      sun. 'For their better scuritye,' says the old writer, 'they put in use a
+      kind of military discipline, warily preparing against a soddaine surprize,
+      for on the outermost Rocke one great Seale or more keepes sentinell, which
+      upon the first inklinge of any danger, giveth the Alarme to the rest by
+      throweing of Stones, or making a noise in the water, when he tumbles down
+      from the Rocke, the rest immediately doe the like, insomuch that yt is
+      very hard to overtake them by cunning.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In 1842 Redcar was a mere village, though more apparent on the map than
+      Saltburn; but, like its neighbour, it has grown into a great
+      watering-place, having developed two piers, a long esplanade other
+      features, which I am glad to leave to those for whom they were made, and
+      betake myself to the more romantic spots so plentiful in this broad
+      county.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH6" id="link2HCH6">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER IV<br />THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO SCARBOROUGH
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /> Although it is only six miles as the crow flies from Whitby to Robin
+      Hood's Bay, the exertion required to walk there along the top of the
+      cliffs is equal to quite double that distance, for there are so many
+      gullies to be climbed into and crawled out of that the measured distance
+      is considerably increased. It is well to remember this, for otherwise the
+      scenery of the last mile or two may not seem as fine as the first stages.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="014 (62K)" src="images/014.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As soon as the abbey and the jet-sellers are left behind, you pass a farm,
+      and come out on a great expanse of close-growing smooth turf, where the
+      whole world seems to be made up of grass and sky. The footpath goes close
+      to the edge of the cliff; in some places it has gone too close, and has
+      disappeared altogether. But these diversions can be avoided without
+      spoiling the magnificent glimpses of the rock-strewn beach nearly 200 feet
+      below. From above Saltwick Bay there is a grand view across the level
+      grass to Whitby Abbey, standing out alone on the green horizon. Down
+      below, Saltwick Nab runs out a bare black arm into the sea, which even in
+      the calmest weather angrily foams along the windward side. Beyond the
+      sturdy lighthouse that shows itself a dazzling white against the hot blue
+      of the heavens commence the innumerable gullies. Each one has its
+      trickling stream, and bushes and low trees grow to the limits of the
+      shelter afforded by the ravines; but in the open there is nothing higher
+      than the waving corn or the stone walls dividing the pastures&mdash;a
+      silent testimony to the power of the north-east wind. The village of
+      Hawsker, with its massive though modern church, can be seen across the
+      fields towards the west, but it does not offer sufficient attractions to
+      divert you from the cliffs, unless you have a desire to see in one or two
+      of the fields, gateways and rubbing-posts formed of whales' jaws,
+      suggestive of the days when Whitby carried on a thriving trade with the
+      great cetaceans. To enjoy this magnificent coast scenery, there must be
+      plenty of time to linger in those places where it seems impossible not to
+      fling yourself on the long brown grass and listen to the droning of
+      insects and the sound of the waves down below. At certain times of the day
+      the most striking colours are seen among the sunlit rocks, and the
+      boldness of the outlines of overhanging strata and great projecting
+      shoulders are a continual surprise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After rounding the North Cheek, the whole of Robin Hood's Bay is suddenly
+      laid before you. I well remember my first view of the wide sweep of sea,
+      which lay like a blue carpet edged with white, and the high escarpments of
+      rock that were in deep purple shade, except where the afternoon sun turned
+      them into the brightest greens and umbers. Three miles away, but seemingly
+      very much closer, was the bold headland of the Peak, and more inland was
+      Stoupe Brow, with Robin Hood's Butts on the hill-top. The fable connected
+      with the outlaw is scarcely worth repeating, but on the site of these
+      butts urns have been dug up, and are now to be found in Scarborough
+      Museum. The Bay Town is hidden away in a most astonishing fashion, for,
+      until you have almost reached the two bastions which guard the way up from
+      the beach, there is nothing to be seen of the charming old place. If you
+      approach by the road past the railway-station it is the same, for only
+      garishly new hotels and villas are to be seen on the high ground, and not
+      a vestige of the fishing-town can be discovered. But the road to the bay
+      at last begins to drop down very steeply, and the first old roofs appear.
+      The path at the side of the road develops into a very long series of
+      steps, and in a few minutes the narrow street, flanked by very tall
+      houses, has swallowed you up.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Everything is very clean and orderly, and, although most of the houses are
+      very old, they are generally in a good state of repair, exhibiting in
+      every case the seaman's love of fresh paint. Thus, the dark and worn stone
+      walls have bright eyes in their newly-painted doors and windows. Over
+      their doorsteps the fishermen's wives are quite fastidious, and you seldom
+      see a mark on the ochre-coloured hearthstone with which the women love to
+      brighten the worn stones. Even the scrapers are sleek with blacklead, and
+      it is not easy to find a window without spotlessly clean curtains. The
+      little coastguard station by the opening on to the shore has difficulty in
+      showing itself superior to the rest in these essential matters of
+      smartness. However, the coastguards glory in a little stone pathway
+      protected by a low wall in front of their building. On this narrow
+      quarter-deck the men love to walk to and fro, just as though they were
+      afloat and were limited to this space for exercise. At high-tide the sea
+      comes halfway up the steep opening between the coastguards' quarters and
+      the inn which is built on another bastion, and in rough weather the waves
+      break hungrily on to the strong stone walls, for the bay is entirely open
+      to the full force of gales from the east or north-east. All the way from
+      Scarborough to Whitby the coast offers no shelter of any sort in heavy
+      weather, and many vessels have been lost on the rocks. On one occasion a
+      small sailing-ship was driven right into this bay at high-tide, and the
+      bowsprit smashed into a window of the little hotel that occupied the place
+      of the present one.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="015 (95K)" src="images/015.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With angry seas periodically demolishing the outermost houses, it seems
+      almost unaccountable that the little town should have persisted in
+      clinging so tenaciously to the high-water mark; but there were probably
+      two paramount reasons for this. The deep gully was to a great extent
+      protected from the force of the winds, and, as it was soon quite brimful
+      of houses, every inch of space was valuable; then, smuggling was freely
+      practised along the coast, and the more the houses were wedged together,
+      the more opportunities for secret hiding-places would be afforded. The
+      whole town has a consciously guilty look in its evident desire to conceal
+      itself; and the steep narrow streets, the curious passages where it is
+      scarcely possible for two people to pass, and the little courts which look
+      like culs-de-sac but have a hidden flight of steps leading down to another
+      passage, seem to be purposely intricate and confusing. For I can imagine a
+      revenue cutter chasing a boat into Robin Hood's Bay, and I can see the
+      smugglers hastily landing on the beach and making for the town, followed
+      by the Excise officers, who are as unable to trace the men as though they
+      had been chasing rabbits in a warren. The stream that made this retreat
+      for the fishing-town is now scarcely more than a drain when it reaches the
+      houses, for, after passing along the foot of a great perpendicular mass of
+      shale, it rushes into a tunnel, and only appears again on the shore.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is strange that there should be so little information as to the
+      associations of Robin Hood with this fishing-village. The stories of his
+      shooting an arrow to determine where he should make his headquarters sound
+      improbable, although his keeping one or two small ships in the bay ready
+      for making his escape if suddenly attacked seems a rational precaution,
+      and if only there were a little more evidence outside the local traditions
+      to go upon, it would be pleasant to let the imagination play upon the wild
+      life led by the outlawed Earl of Huntingdon in this then inaccessible
+      coast region.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The railway southwards takes a curve inland, and, after winding in and out
+      to make the best of the contour of the hills, the train finally steams
+      very heavily and slowly into Ravenscar Station, right over the Peak and
+      630 feet above the sea. On the way you get glimpses of the moors inland,
+      and grand views over the curving bay. There is a station named Fyling
+      Hall, after Sir Hugh Cholmley's old house, halfway to Ravenscar. It was
+      about the year 1625 that Sir Hugh to a great extent rebuilt Fyling Hall,
+      which is still standing; but he came in with his family before the plaster
+      on the walls was thoroughly dry, and the household seems to have suffered
+      in health on this account. Shortly afterwards Sir Hugh lost his eldest son
+      Richard, who was only five years old, and this great trouble decided him
+      to move to Whitby; for in 1629 he sold Fyling Hall to Sir John Hotham, and
+      took up his residence in the Abbey House at Whitby.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Raven Hall, the large house conspicuously perched on the heights above the
+      Peak, is now converted into an hotel. There is a wonderful view from the
+      castellated terraces, which in the distance suggest the remains of some
+      ruined fortress. At the present time there is nothing to be seen older
+      than the house whose foundations were dug in 1774. While the building
+      operations were in progress, however, a Roman stone, now in Whitby Museum,
+      was unearthed. The inscription has been translated: 'Justinian, governor
+      of the province, and Vindician, general of the forces of Upper Britain,
+      for the second time, with the younger provincial soldiers built this fort,
+      the manager of public works giving his assistance.' There is therefore
+      ample evidence for believing that this commanding height was used by the
+      Romans as a military post, although subsequently there were no further
+      attempts to fortify the place, Scarborough, so much more easily
+      defensible, being chosen instead. A rather pathetic attempt to foster the
+      establishment of a watering-place has, however, been lately put on foot,
+      but beyond some elaborately prepared roads and two or three isolated
+      blocks of houses, there is fortunately little response to this artificial
+      cultivation of a summer resort on the bare hill-top.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Following this lofty coast southwards, you reach Hayburn Wyke, where a
+      stream drops perpendicularly over some square masses of rock. After very
+      heavy rains the waterfall attains quite a respectable size, but even under
+      such favourable conditions the popularity of the place to a great extent
+      spoils what might otherwise be a pleasant surprise to the rambler. The
+      woodland paths leading down to the cove from the hotel by the station are
+      exceedingly pretty, and in the summer it is not easy to find your way,
+      despite the direction-boards nailed to trees here and there. But there are
+      many wooded and mossy-pathed ravines equally pretty, where no charge is
+      made for admittance, and where you can be away from your fellow-mortals
+      and the silver paper they throw away from the chocolate they eat.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There is a small stone circle not far from Hayburn Wyke Station, to be
+      found without much trouble, and those who are interested in Early Man will
+      scarcely find a neighbourhood in this country more thickly honeycombed
+      with tumuli and ancient earthworks. There is no particularly plain pathway
+      through the fields to the valley where this stone circle can be seen, but
+      it can easily be found after a careful study of the large scale Ordnance
+      map which they will show you at the hotel; and if there be any difficulty
+      in locating the exact position of the stones, the people at the
+      neighbouring farm are exceedingly kind in giving directions. There are
+      about fifteen monoliths making up the circle, and they are all lying flat
+      on the ground, so that in the summer they are very much overgrown with
+      rank grass and low bushes. This was probably the burial-place of some
+      prehistoric chief, but no mound remains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH7" id="link2HCH7">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER V<br />SCARBOROUGH
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Dazzling sunshine, a furious wind, flapping and screaming gulls, crowds of
+      fishing-boats, and innumerable people jostling one another on the
+      seafront, made up the chief features of my first view of Scarborough. By
+      degrees I discovered that behind the gulls and the brown sails were old
+      houses, their roofs dimly red through the transparent haze, and above them
+      appeared a great green cliff, with its uneven outline defined by the
+      curtain walls and towers of the castle which had made Scarborough a place
+      of importance in the Civil War and in earlier times.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The wide-curving bay was filled with huge breaking waves which looked
+      capable of destroying everything within their reach, but they seemed
+      harmless enough when I looked a little further out, where eight or ten
+      gray warships were riding at their anchors, apparently motionless.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="016 (92K)" src="images/016.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From the outer arm of the harbour, where the seas were angrily attempting
+      to dislodge the top row of stones, I could make out the great mass of gray
+      buildings stretching right to the extremity of the bay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I tried to pick out individual buildings from this city-like
+      watering-place, but, beyond discovering the position of the Spa and one or
+      two of the mightier hotels, I could see very little, and instead fell to
+      wondering how many landladies and how many foreign waiters the long lines
+      of gray roofs represented. This raised so many unpleasant recollections of
+      the various types I had encountered that I determined to go no nearer to
+      modern Scarborough than the pier-head upon which I stood. A specially big
+      wave, however, soon drove me from this position to a drier if more crowded
+      spot, and, reconsidering my objections, I determined to see something of
+      the innumerable gray streets which make up the fashionable watering-place.
+      The terraced gardens on the steep cliffs along the sea-front were most
+      elaborately well kept, but a more striking feature of Scarborough is the
+      magnificence of so many of the shops. They suggest a city rather than a
+      seaside town, and give you an idea of the magnitude of the permanent
+      population of the place as well as the flood of summer and winter
+      visitors. The origin of Scarborough's popularity was undoubtedly due to
+      the chalybeate waters of the Spa, discovered in 1620, almost at the same
+      time as those of Tunbridge Wells and Epsom.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The unmistakable signs of antiquity in the narrow streets adjoining the
+      harbour irresistibly remind one of the days when sea-bathing had still to
+      be popularized, when the efficacy of Scarborough's medicinal spring had
+      not been discovered, of the days when the place bore as little resemblance
+      to its present size or appearance as the fishing-town at Robin Hood's Bay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We do not know that Piers Gaveston, Sir Hugh Cholmley, and other
+      notabilities who have left their mark on the pages of Scarborough's
+      history, might not, were they with us to-day, welcome the pierrot, the
+      switchback, the restaurant, and other means by which pleasure-loving
+      visitors wile away their hardly-earned holidays; but for my part the story
+      of Scarborough's Mayor who was tossed in a blanket is far more
+      entertaining than the songs of nigger minstrels or any of the commercial
+      attempts to amuse.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This strangely improper procedure with one who held the highest office in
+      the municipality took place in the reign of James II., and the King's
+      leanings towards Popery were the cause of all the trouble.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On April 27, 1688, a declaration for liberty of conscience was published,
+      and by royal command the said declaration was to be read in every
+      Protestant church in the land. Mr. Thomas Aislabie, the Mayor of
+      Scarborough, duly received a copy of the document, and, having handed it
+      to the clergyman, Mr. Noel Boteler, ordered him to read it in church on
+      the following Sunday morning. There seems little doubt that the worthy Mr.
+      Boteler at once recognised a wily move on the part of the King, who under
+      the cover of general tolerance would foster the growth of the Roman
+      religion until such time as the Catholics had attained sufficient power to
+      suppress Protestantism. Mr. Mayor was therefore informed that the
+      declaration would not be read. On Sunday morning (August 11) when the
+      omission had been made, the Mayor left his pew, and, stick in hand, walked
+      up the aisle, seized the minister, and caned him as he stood at his
+      reading-desk. Scenes of such a nature did not occur every day even in
+      1688, and the storm of indignation and excitement among the members of the
+      congregation did not subside so quickly as it had risen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="017 (115K)" src="images/017.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The cause of the poor minister was championed in particular by a certain
+      Captain Ouseley, and the discussion of the matter on the bowling-green on
+      the following day led to the suggestion that the Mayor should be sent for
+      to explain his conduct. As he took no notice of a courteous message
+      requesting his attendance, the Captain repeated the summons accompanied by
+      a file of musketeers. In the meantime many suggestions for dealing with
+      Mr. Aislabie in a fitting manner were doubtless made by the Captain's
+      brother officers, and, further, some settled course of action seems to
+      have been agreed upon, for we do not hear of any hesitation on the part of
+      the Captain on the arrival of the Mayor, whose rage must by this time have
+      been bordering upon apoplexy. A strong blanket was ready, and Captains
+      Carvil, Fitzherbert, Hanmer, and Rodney, led by Captain Ouseley and
+      assisted by as many others as could find room, seizing the sides, in a
+      very few moments Mr. Mayor was revolving and bumping, rising and falling,
+      as though he were no weight at all.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This public degradation was too much to be borne without substantial
+      redress. He therefore set out at once for London to obtain satisfaction
+      from his Sovereign. But Ouseley was wise enough to look after his own
+      interests in that quarter himself, and in two letters we see the upshot of
+      the matter.
+    </p>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p>
+        'LONDON, 'September 22, 1688. '....Captain Ouseley is said to be come to
+        town to give reasons for tossing the mayor of Scarborough in a blanket.
+        As part of his plea he has brought with him a collection of articles
+        against the said mayor, and the attestations of many gentlemen of note.'
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p>
+        'LONDON, 'September 29, 1688. 'The mayor of Scarborough and Captain
+        Ouseley, who tossed the other in a blanket, were heard last night before
+        the council: the Captain pleaded his majesty's gracious pardon (which is
+        in the press) and so both were dismissed.'
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <p>
+      Aislabie was the last of the only five Mayors the town had then known, and
+      the fact that the office had only been instituted in 1684 seems to show
+      that what reverence had gathered round the person of the chief magistrate
+      was not sufficient to stand in the face of such outrageous conduct as the
+      public caning of the minister. The townsfolk decided that they had had
+      enough of Mayors, for on November 16 in the same autumn Scarborough was
+      once more placed under the control of two Bailiffs, as had been the case
+      previous to 1684.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If the castle does not show many interesting buildings beyond the keep and
+      the long line of walls and drum-towers, there is so much concerning it
+      that is of great human interest that I should scarcely feel able to
+      grumble if there were still fewer remains. Behind the ancient houses in
+      Quay Street rises the steep, grassy cliff, up which one must climb by
+      various rough pathways to the fortified summit. On the side facing the
+      mainland, a hollow, known as the Dyke, is bridged by a tall and narrow
+      archway, in place of the drawbridge of the seventeenth century and earlier
+      times. On the same side is a massive gateway, looking across an open space
+      to St. Mary's Church, which suffered so severely during the sieges of the
+      castle. The maimed church&mdash;for the chancel has never been rebuilt&mdash;looks
+      across the Dyke to the shattered keep, and so apparent are the results of
+      the cannonading between them that no one requires to be told that the
+      Parliamentary forces mounted their ordnance in the chancel and tower of
+      the church, and it is equally apparent that the Royalists returned the
+      fire hotly.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The great siege lasted for nearly a year, and although his garrison was
+      small, and there was practically no hope of relief, Sir Hugh Cholmley
+      seems to have kept a stout heart up to the end. With him throughout this
+      long period of privation and suffering was his beautiful and courageous
+      wife, whose comparatively early death, at the age of fifty-four, must to
+      some extent be attributed to the strain and fatigue borne during these
+      months of warfare. Sir Hugh seems to have almost worshipped his wife, for
+      in his memoirs he is never weary of describing her perfections.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      'She was of the middle stature of women,' he writes, 'and well shaped, yet
+      in that not so singular as in the beauty of her face, which was but of a
+      little model, and yet proportionable to her body; her eyes black and full
+      of loveliness and sweetness, her eyebrows small and even, as if drawn with
+      a pencil, a very little, pretty, well-shaped mouth, which sometimes
+      (especially when in a muse or study) she would draw up into an incredible
+      little compass; her hair a sad chestnut; her complexion brown, but clear,
+      with a fresh colour in her cheeks, a loveliness in her looks
+      inexpressible; and by her whole composure was so beautiful a sweet
+      creature at her marriage as not many did parallel, few exceed her in the
+      nation; yet the inward endowments and perfections of her mind did exceed
+      those outward of her body, being a most pious virtuous person, of great
+      integrity and discerning judgment in most things.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Her husband speaks of her 'sweet good-nature,' and of how she was always
+      ready to be touched with other people's wants before her own. That such
+      nobleness of character should shine out brilliantly during the siege was
+      inevitable, and Sir Hugh tells us that, though she was of a timorous
+      nature, she bore herself during great danger with 'a courage above her
+      sex.' On one occasion Sir John Meldrum, the Parliamentary commander, sent
+      proposals to Sir Hugh Cholmley, which he accompanied with savage threats,
+      that if his terms were not immediately accepted he would make a general
+      assault on the castle that night, and in the event of one drop of his
+      men's blood being shed he would give orders for a general massacre of the
+      garrison, sparing neither man nor woman.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="018 (118K)" src="images/018.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To a man whose devotion to his beautiful wife was so great, a threat of
+      this nature must have been a severe shock to his determination to hold
+      out. But from his own writings we are able to picture for ourselves Sir
+      Hugh's anxious and troubled face lighting up on the approach of the cause
+      of his chief concern. Lady Cholmley, without any sign of the inward
+      misgivings or dejection which, with her gentle and shrinking nature, must
+      have been a great struggle, came to her husband, and implored him to on no
+      account let her peril influence his decision to the detriment of his own
+      honour or the King's affairs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sir John Meldrum's proposals having been rejected, the garrison prepared
+      itself for the furious attack commenced on May 11.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The assault was well planned, for while the Governor's attention was
+      turned towards the gateway leading to the castle entrance, another attack
+      was made at the southern end of the wall towards the sea, where until the
+      year 1730 Charles's Tower stood. The bloodshed at this point was greater
+      than at the gateway. At the head of a chosen division of troops, Sir John
+      Meldrum climbed the almost precipitous ascent with wonderful courage, only
+      to meet with such spirited resistance on the part of the besieged that,
+      when the attack was abandoned, it was discovered that Meldrum had received
+      a dangerous wound penetrating to his thigh, and that several of his
+      officers and men had been killed. Meanwhile, at the gateway, the first
+      success of the assailants had been checked at the foot of the Grand Tower
+      or Keep, for at that point the rush of drab-coated and helmeted men was
+      received by such a shower of stones and missiles that many stumbled and
+      were crushed on the steep pathway. Not even Cromwell's men could continue
+      to face such a reception, and before very long the Governor could embrace
+      his wife in the knowledge that the great attack had failed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In between such scenes as these, when the air was filled with the shouts
+      and yells of attackers and besieged, when the crack of the muskets and the
+      intermittent reports of the cannon almost deafened her, Lady Cholmley was
+      assiduously attending to the wounded and the many cases of scurvy, which
+      was rampant among the garrison. One of her maids who shared these labours
+      crept out of the castle one night with a view to reaching the town and
+      escaping further drudgery and privations; but a Roundhead sentry
+      discovered her and sent her back to the castle, thinking that she was a
+      spy. When the great keep was partially destroyed, Lady Cholmley was forced
+      'to lie in a little cabbin on the ground several months together, when she
+      took a defluction of rhume upon one of her eyes, which troubled her ever
+      after, and got also a touch of the scurvy then rife in the castle, and of
+      which it is thought she was not well after.' Who can wonder that Sir Hugh
+      appreciated the courage of this noble lady, and I marvel still more at her
+      fortitude when I read of the frailties her husband mentions so gently,
+      fearing, no doubt, that without a few shadows no one would accept his
+      picture as genuine. 'If she had taken impression of anything, it was hard
+      to remove it with reason or argument, till she had considered of it
+      herself; neither could she well endure adversity or crosses, though it
+      pleased the Lord to exercise her with them, by my many troubles and the
+      calamity of the times. She would be much troubled at evils which could
+      neither be prevented nor remedied, and sometimes discontented without any
+      great cause, especially in her disposition of health; for, being of a
+      tender constitution, and spun of a fine thread, every disaster took
+      impression on her body and mind, and would make her both sick and often
+      inclinable to be melancholy, especially in my absence.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At last, on July 22, 1645&mdash;his forty-fifth birthday&mdash;Sir Hugh
+      was forced to come to an agreement with the enemy, by which he honourably
+      surrendered the castle three days later. It was a sad procession that
+      wound its way down the steep pathway, littered with the debris of broken
+      masonry: for many of Sir Hugh's officers and soldiers were in such a weak
+      condition that they had to be carried out in sheets or helped along
+      between two men, and the Parliamentary officer adds, rather tersely, that
+      'the rest were not very fit to march.' The scurvy had depleted the ranks
+      of the defenders to such an extent that the women in the castle, despite
+      the presence of Lady Cholmley, threatened to stone the Governor unless he
+      capitulated.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The reduction of Scarborough Castle was considered a profound success to
+      the side of the Parliament, 'The Moderate Intelligencer' of July 23, 1645,
+      announcing the fact with great satisfaction, 'we heare likewise that <i>Scarborough</i>
+      is also yeelded into our hands, Sir Hugh hath none other conditions for
+      himself, but with his wife and children passe beyond seas. This is
+      excellent good newes, and is a very terrible blow to the enemy.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Three years later the castle was again besieged by the Parliamentary
+      forces, for Colonel Matthew Boynton, the Governor, had declared for the
+      King. The garrison held out from August to December, when terms were made
+      with Colonel Hugh Bethell, by which the Governor, officers, gentlemen, and
+      soldiers, marched out with 'their colours flying, drums beating, musquets
+      loaden, bandeleers filled, matches lighted, and bullet in mouth, to a
+      close called Scarborough Common,' where they laid down their arms.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Before I leave Scarborough I must go back to early times, in order that
+      the antiquity of the place may not be slighted owing to the omission of
+      any reference to the town in the Domesday Book. Tosti, Count of
+      Northumberland, who, as everyone knows, was brother of the Harold who
+      fought at Senlac Hill, had brought about an insurrection of the
+      Northumbrians, and having been dispossessed by his brother, he revenged
+      himself by inviting the help of Haralld Hadrada, King of Norway. The
+      Norseman promptly accepted the offer, and, taking with him his family and
+      an army of warriors, sailed for the Shetlands, where Tosti joined him. The
+      united forces then came down the east coast of Britain until they reached
+      Scardaburgum, where they landed and prepared to fight the inhabitants. The
+      town was then built entirely of timber, and there was, apparently, no
+      castle of any description on the great hill, for the Norsemen, finding
+      their opponents inclined to offer a stout resistance, tried other tactics.
+      They gained possession of the hill, constructed a huge fire, and when the
+      wood was burning fiercely, flung the blazing brands down on to the wooden
+      houses below. The fire spread from one hut to another with sufficient
+      speed to drive out the defenders, who in the confusion which followed were
+      slaughtered by the enemy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This occurred in the momentous year 1066, when Harold, having defeated the
+      Norsemen and slain Haralld Hadrada at Stamford Bridge, had to hurry
+      southwards to meet William the Norman at Hastings. It is not surprising,
+      therefore, that the compilers of the Conqueror's survey should have failed
+      to record the existence of the blackened embers of what had once been a
+      town. But such a site as the castle hill could not long remain idle in the
+      stormy days of the Norman Kings, and William le Gros, Earl of Albemarle
+      and Lord of Holderness, recognising the natural defensibility of the rock,
+      built the massive walls which have withstood so many assaults, and even
+      now form the most prominent feature of Scarborough.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH8" id="link2HCH8">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER VI<br />WHITBY
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p>
+        'Behold the glorious summer sea As night's dark wings unfold, And o'er
+        the waters, 'neath the stars, The harbour lights behold.'
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <p>
+      E. Teschemacher.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Despite a huge influx of summer visitors, and despite the modern town
+      which has grown up to receive them, Whitby is still one of the most
+      strikingly picturesque towns in England. But at the same time, if one
+      excepts the abbey, the church, and the market-house, there are scarcely
+      any architectural attractions in the town. The charm of the place does not
+      lie so much in detail as in broad effects. The narrow streets have no
+      surprises in the way of carved-oak brackets or curious panelled doorways,
+      although narrow passages and steep flights of stone steps abound. On the
+      other hand, the old parts of the town, when seen from a distance, are
+      always presenting themselves in new apparel.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="019 (113K)" src="images/019.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the early morning the East Cliff generally appears merely as a pale
+      gray silhouette with a square projection representing the church, and a
+      fretted one the abbey. But as the sun climbs upwards, colour and
+      definition grow out of the haze of smoke and shadows, and the roofs assume
+      their ruddy tones. At mid-day, when the sunlight pours down upon the
+      medley of houses clustered along the face of the cliff, the scene is
+      brilliantly coloured. The predominant note is the red of the chimneys and
+      roofs and stray patches of brickwork, but the walls that go down to the
+      water's edge are green below and full of rich browns above, and in many
+      places the sides of the cottages are coloured with an ochre wash, while
+      above them all the top of the cliff appears covered with grass. On a clear
+      day, when detached clouds are passing across the sun, the houses are
+      sometimes lit up in the strangest fashion, their quaint outlines being
+      suddenly thrown out from the cliff by a broad patch of shadow upon the
+      grass and rocks behind. But there is scarcely a chimney in this old part
+      of Whitby that does not contribute to the mist of blue-gray smoke that
+      slowly drifts up the face of the cliff, and thus, when there is no bright
+      sunshine, colour and detail are subdued in the haze.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In many towns whose antiquity and picturesqueness are more popular than
+      the attractions of Whitby, the railway deposits one in some distressingly
+      ugly modern excrescence, from which it may even be necessary for a
+      stranger to ask his way to the old-world features he has come to see. But
+      at Whitby the railway, without doing any harm to the appearance of the
+      town, at once gives a visitor as typical a scene of fishing-life as he
+      will ever find. When the tide is up and the wharves are crowded with
+      boats, this upper portion of Whitby Harbour is at its best, and to step
+      from the railway compartment entered at King's Cross into this busy scene
+      is an experience to be remembered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the deepening twilight of a clear evening the harbour gathers to itself
+      the additional charm of mysterious indefiniteness, and among the
+      long-drawn-out reflections appear sinuous lines of yellow light beneath
+      the lamps by the bridge. Looking towards the ocean from the outer harbour,
+      one sees the massive arms which Whitby has thrust into the waves, holding
+      aloft the steady lights that
+    </p>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p>
+        'Safely guide the mighty ships Into the harbour bay.'
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <p>
+      If we keep to the waterside, modern Whitby has no terrors for us. It is
+      out of sight, and might therefore have never existed. But when we have
+      crossed the bridge, and passed along the narrow thoroughfare known as
+      Church Street to the steps leading up the face of the cliff, we must
+      prepare ourselves for a new aspect of the town. There, upon the top of the
+      West Cliff, stand rows of sad-looking and dun-coloured lodging-houses,
+      relieved by the aggressive bulk of a huge hotel, with corner turrets, that
+      frowns savagely at the unfinished crescent, where there are many
+      apartments with 'rooms facing the sea.' The only redeeming feature of this
+      modern side of Whitby is the circumscribed area it occupies, so that the
+      view from the top of the 199 steps we have climbed is not altogether
+      vitiated. A distinctive feature of the west side of the river has been
+      lost in the sails of the Union Mill, which were taken down some years ago,
+      and the solid brick building where many of the Whitby people, by the
+      excellent method of cooperation, obtained their flour at reduced prices is
+      now the headquarters of some volunteers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The town seems to have no idea of re-erecting the sails of the windmill,
+      and as I have so far heard of no scheme for demolishing the
+      unpleasant-looking houses on the West Cliff, we will shut our eyes to
+      these shortcomings, and admit that the task is not difficult in the
+      presence of such a superb view over Whitby's glorious surroundings. We
+      look over the chimney-stacks of the topmost houses, and see the silver Esk
+      winding placidly in the deep channel it has carved for itself; and further
+      away we see the far-off moorland heights, brown and blue, where the
+      sources of the broad river down below are fed by the united efforts of
+      innumerable tiny streams deep in the heather. Behind us stands the
+      massive-looking parish church, with its Norman tower, so sturdily built
+      that its height seems scarcely greater than its breadth. There is surely
+      no other church with such a ponderous exterior that is so completely
+      deceptive as to its internal aspect, for St. Mary's contains the most
+      remarkable series of beehive-like galleries that were ever crammed into a
+      parish church. They are not merely very wide and ill-arranged, but they
+      are superposed one above the other. The free use of white paint all over
+      the sloping tiers of pews has prevented the interior from being as dark as
+      it would have otherwise been, but the result of all this painted deal has
+      been to give the building the most eccentric and indecorous appearance.
+      Still, there are few who will fail to thank the good folks of Whitby for
+      preserving an ecclesiastical curiosity of such an unusual nature. The
+      box-pews on the floor of the church are separated by very narrow gangways&mdash;we
+      cannot call them aisles&mdash;and the gallery across the chancel arch is
+      particularly noticeable for the twisted wooden columns supporting it.
+      Various pews in the transepts and elsewhere have been reserved for many
+      generations for the use of people from outlying villages, such as Aislaby,
+      Ugglebarnby, and Hawskercum-Stainsacre, and it was this necessity for
+      accommodating a very large congregation that taxed the ingenuity of the
+      churchwardens, and resulted in the strange interior existing to-day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The early history of Whitby from the time of the landing of Roman soldiers
+      in Dunsley Bay seems to be very closely associated with the abbey founded
+      by Hilda about two years after the battle of Winwidfield, fought on
+      November 15, A.D. 654; but I will not venture to state an opinion here as
+      to whether there was any town at Streoneshalh before the building of the
+      abbey, or whether the place that has since become known as Whitby grew on
+      account of the presence of the abbey. Such matters as these have been
+      fought out by an expert in the archaeology of Cleveland&mdash;the late
+      Canon Atkinson, who seemed to take infinite pleasure in demolishing the
+      elaborately constructed theories of those painstaking historians of the
+      eighteenth century, Dr. Young and Mr. Lionel Charlton.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Many facts, however, which throw light on the early days of the abbey are
+      now unassailable. We see that Hilda must have been a most remarkable woman
+      for her times, instilling into those around her a passion for learning as
+      well as right-living, for despite the fact that they worked and prayed in
+      rude wooden buildings, with walls formed, most probably, of split
+      tree-trunks, after the fashion of the church at Greenstead in Essex, we
+      find the institution producing, among others, such men as Bosa and John,
+      both Bishops of York, and such a poet as Caadmon. The legend of his
+      inspiration, however, may be placed beside the story of how the saintly
+      Abbess turned the snakes into the fossil ammonites with which the liassic
+      shores of Whitby are strewn. Hilda, who probably died in the year 680, was
+      succeeded by Aelfleda, the daughter of King Oswin of Northumbria, whom she
+      had trained in the abbey, and there seems little doubt that her pupil
+      carried on successfully the beneficent work of the foundress.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="020 (114K)" src="images/020.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Aelfleda had the support of her mother's presence as well as the wise
+      counsels of Bishop Trumwine, who had taken refuge at Streoneshalh, after
+      having been driven from his own sphere of work by the depredations of the
+      Picts and Scots. We then learn that Aelfleda died at the age of
+      fifty-nine, but from that year&mdash;probably 713&mdash;a complete silence
+      falls upon the work of the abbey; for if any records were made during the
+      next century and a half, they have been totally lost. About the year 867
+      the Danes reached this part of Yorkshire, and we know that they laid waste
+      the abbey, and most probably the town also; but the invaders gradually
+      started new settlements, or 'bys,' and Whitby must certainly have grown
+      into a place of some size by the time of Edward the Confessor, for just
+      previous to the Norman invasion it was assessed for Danegeld to the extent
+      of a sum equivalent to �3,500 at the present time.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After the Conquest a monk named Reinfrid succeeded in reviving a monastery
+      on the site of the old one, having probably gained the permission of
+      William de Percy, the lord of the district. The new establishment,
+      however, was for monks only, and was for some time merely a priory.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The form of the successive buildings from the time of Hilda until the
+      building of the stately abbey church, whose ruins are now to be seen, is a
+      subject of great interest, but, unfortunately, there are few facts to go
+      upon. The very first church was, as I have already suggested, a building
+      of rude construction, scarcely better than the humble dwellings of the
+      monks and nuns. The timber walls were most probably thatched, and the
+      windows would be of small lattice or boards pierced with small holes.
+      Gradually the improvements brought about would have led to the use of
+      stone for the walls, and the buildings destroyed by the Danes probably
+      resembled such examples of Anglo-Saxon work as may still be seen in the
+      churches of Bradford-on-Avon and Monkwearmouth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The buildings erected by Reinfrid under the Norman influence then
+      prevailing in England must have been a slight advance upon the destroyed
+      fabric, and we know that during the time of his successor, Serlo de Percy,
+      there was a certain Godfrey in charge of the building operations, and
+      there is every reason to believe that he completed the church during the
+      fifty years of prosperity the monastery passed through at that time. But
+      this was not the structure which survived, for towards the end of
+      Stephen's reign, or during that of Henry II., the unfortunate convent was
+      devastated by the King of Norway, who entered the harbour, and, in the
+      words of the chronicle, 'laid waste everything, both within doors and
+      without.' The abbey slowly recovered from this disaster, and if any church
+      were built on the ruins between 1160 and the reconstruction commenced in
+      1220, there is no part of it surviving to-day in the beautiful ruin that
+      still makes a conspicuous landmark from the sea.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was after the Dissolution that the abbey buildings came into the hands
+      of Sir Richard Cholmley, who paid over to Henry VIII. the sum of �333 8s.
+      4d. The manors of Eskdaleside and Ugglebarnby, with all 'their rights,
+      members and appurtenances as they formerly had belonged to the abbey of
+      Whitby,' henceforward belonged to Sir Richard and his successors. Sir Hugh
+      Cholmley, whose defence of Scarborough Castle has made him a name in
+      history, was born on July 22, 1600, at Roxby, near Pickering. He has been
+      justly called 'the father of Whitby,' and it is to him we owe a
+      fascinating account of his life at Whitby in Stuart and Jacobean times. He
+      describes how he lived for some time in the gate-house of the abbey
+      buildings, 'till my house was repaired and habitable, which then was very
+      ruinous and all unhandsome, the wall being only of timber and plaster, and
+      ill-contrived within: and besides the repairs, or rather re-edifying the
+      house, I built the stable and barn, I heightened the outwalls of the court
+      double to what they were, and made all the wall round about the paddock;
+      so that the place hath been improved very much, both for beauty and
+      profit, by me more than all my ancestors, for there was not a tree about
+      the house but was set in my time, and almost by my own hand. The Court
+      levels, which laid upon a hanging ground, unhandsomely, very ill-watered,
+      having only the low well, which is in the Almsers-close, which I covered;
+      and also discovered, and erected, the other adjoining conduit, and the
+      well in the courtyard from whence I conveyed by leaden pipes water into
+      the house, brewhouse, and washhouse.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the spring of 1636 the reconstruction of the abbey house was finished,
+      and Sir Hugh moved in with his family. 'My dear wife,' he says, '(who was
+      excellent at dressing and making all handsome within doors) had put it
+      into a fine posture, and furnished with many good things, so that, I
+      believe, there were few gentlemen in the country, of my rank, exceeded
+      it.... I was at this time made Deputy-lieutenant and Colonel over the
+      Train-bands within the hundred of Whitby Strand, Ryedale, Pickering, Lythe
+      and Scarborough town; for that, my father being dead, the country looked
+      upon me as the chief of my family.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sir Hugh had been somewhat addicted to gambling in his younger days, and
+      had made a few debts of his own before he undertook to deal with his
+      father's heavy liabilities, and in the early years of his married life he
+      had been very much taken up with the difficult and arduous work of paying
+      off the amounts due to the clamorous creditors. During this process he had
+      been forced to live very quietly, and had incidentally sifted out his real
+      friends from among his relations and acquaintances. Thus, it is with
+      pardonable pride that he says: 'Having mastered my debts, I did not only
+      appear at all public meetings in a very gentlemanly equipage, but lived in
+      as handsome and plentiful fashion at home as any gentleman in all the
+      country, of my rank. I had between thirty and forty in my ordinary family,
+      a chaplain who said prayers every morning at six, and again before dinner
+      and supper, a porter who merely attended the gates, which were ever shut
+      up before dinner, when the bell rung to prayers, and not opened till one
+      o'clock, except for some strangers who came to dinner, which was ever fit
+      to receive three or four besides my family, without any trouble; and
+      whatever their fare was, they were sure to have a hearty welcome. Twice a
+      week, a certain number of old people, widows and indigent persons, were
+      served at my gates with bread and good pottage made of beef, which I
+      mention that those which succeed may follow the example.' Not content with
+      merely benefiting the aged folk of his town, Sir Hugh took great pains to
+      extend the piers, and in 1632 went to London to petition the
+      'Council-table' to allow a general contribution for this purpose
+      throughout the country. As a result of his efforts, 'all that part of the
+      pier to the west end of the harbour' was erected, and yet he complains
+      that, though it was the means of preserving a large section of the town
+      from the sea, the townsfolk would not interest themselves in the repairs
+      necessitated by force of the waves. 'I wish, with all my heart,' he
+      exclaims, 'the next generation may have more public spirit.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sir Hugh Cholmley also built a market-house for the town, and removed the
+      bridge to its present position. Owing to rebuilding, neither of these
+      actual works remains with us to-day, but their influence on the progress
+      of Whitby must have been considerable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="021 (107K)" src="images/021.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On a June morning in the year after Sir Hugh had settled down so
+      handsomely in his refurbished house, two Dutch men-of-war chased into the
+      harbour 'a small pickroon belonging to the King of Spain.' The Hollanders
+      had 400 men in one ship and 200 in the other, but the Spaniard had only
+      thirty men and two small guns. The Holland ships proceeded to anchor
+      outside the harbour, and, lowering their longboats, sent ashore forty men,
+      all armed with pistols. But the Spaniards had been on the alert, and
+      having warped their vessel to a safer position above the bridge, they
+      placed their two guns on the deck, and every man prepared himself to
+      defend the ship.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      'I, having notice of this,' writes Sir Hugh, 'fearing they might do here
+      the like affront as they did at Scarborough, where they landed one hundred
+      men, and took a ship belonging to the King of Spain out of the harbour,
+      sent for the Holland Captains, and ordered them not to offer any act of
+      hostility; for that the Spaniard was the King's friend, and to have
+      protection in his ports. After some expostulations, they promised not to
+      meddle with the Dunkirker [Spaniard] if he offered no injury to them;
+      which I gave him strict charge against, and to trust to the King's
+      protection. These Holland Captains leaving me, and going into the town,
+      sent for the Dunkirk Captain to dine with them, and soon after took
+      occasion to quarrel with him, at the same time ordered their men to fall
+      on the Dunkirk ship, which they soon surprised, the Captain and most of
+      the men being absent. I being in my courtyard, and hearing some pistols
+      discharged, and being told the Dunkirker and Hollanders were at odds, made
+      haste unto the town, having only a cane in my hand, and one that followed
+      me without any weapon, thinking my presence would pacify all differences.
+      When I came to the river-side, on the sand between the coal-yard and the
+      bridge, I found the Holland Captain with a pistol in his hand, calling to
+      his men, then in the Dunkirk ship, to send a boat for him. I gave him good
+      words, and held him in treaty until I got near him, and then, giving a
+      leap on him, caught hold of his pistol, which I became master of; yet not
+      without some hazard from the ship, for one from thence levelled a musket
+      at me; but I espying it, turned the Captain between me and him, which
+      prevented his shooting.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When Sir Hugh had secured the Captain, he sent a boatload of men to retake
+      the ship, and as soon as the Hollanders saw it approaching, they fled to
+      their own vessels outside the harbour. In the afternoon Sir Hugh
+      intercepted a letter to his prisoner, telling him to be of good cheer, for
+      at midnight they would land 200 men and bring him away. This was a serious
+      matter, and Sir Hugh sent to Sir John Hotham, the High Sheriff of the
+      county, who at once came from Fyling, and summoned all the adjacent
+      train-bands. There were about 200 men on guard all through the night, and
+      evidently the Hollanders had observed the activity on shore, for they made
+      no attack. The ships continued to hover outside the harbour for two or
+      three days, until Sir Hugh sent the Captain to York. He was afterwards
+      taken to London, where he remained a prisoner, after the fashion of those
+      times, for nearly two years.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was after the troublous times of the Civil War that Sir Hugh
+      re-established himself at Whitby, and opened a new era of prosperity for
+      himself and the townsfolk in the alum-works at Saltwick Nab.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> <a name="linkch7" id="linkch7"></a> <br />
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER VII<br />THE CLEVELAND HILLS
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On their their northern and western flanks the Cleveland Hills have a most
+      imposing and mountainous aspect, although their greatest altitudes do not
+      aspire more than about 1,500 feet. But they rise so suddenly to their full
+      height out of the flat sea of green country that they often appear as a
+      coast defended by a bold range of mountains. Roseberry Topping stands out
+      in grim isolation, on its masses of alum rock, like a huge seaworn crag,
+      considerably over 1,000 feet high. But this strangely menacing peak raises
+      its defiant head over nothing but broad meadows, arable land, and
+      woodlands, and his only warfare is with the lower strata of storm-clouds,
+      which is a convenient thing for the people who live in these parts; for
+      long ago they used the peak as a sign of approaching storms, having
+      reduced the warning to the easily-remembered couplet:
+    </p>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p>
+        'When Roseberry Topping wears a cap, Let Cleveland then beware of a
+        clap.'
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <p>
+      In a similar manner the Scarborough folk used Oliver's Mount, the isolated
+      hill at the back of the town, as a ready-made barometer, for they knew
+      that
+    </p>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p>
+        'When Oliver's Mount puts on his hat, Scarborough town will pay for
+        that.'
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <p>
+      It is difficult to decide on the correct spelling of Roseberry Topping, as
+      it is often spelt in the same way as the earldom, and as frequently in old
+      writings it appears as 'Rosebury.' Camden, who wrote in Tudor times,
+      called it Ounsberry Topping, which certainly does not help matters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="022 (115K)" src="images/022.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From the fact that you can see this remarkable peak from almost every
+      point of the compass except south-westwards, it must follow that from the
+      top of the hill there are views in all those directions. But to see so
+      much of the country at once comes as a surprise to everyone. Stretching
+      inland towards the backbone of England, there is spread out a huge tract
+      of smiling country, covered with a most complex network of hedges, which
+      gradually melt away into the indefinite blue edge of the world where the
+      hills of Wensleydale rise from the plain. Looking across the little town
+      of Guisborough, lying near the shelter of the hills, to the broad sweep of
+      the North Sea, this piece of Yorkshire seems so small that one almost
+      expects to see the Cheviots away in the north. But, beyond the winding
+      Tees and the drifting smoke of the great manufacturing towns on its banks,
+      one must be content with the county of Durham, a huge section of which is
+      plainly visible. Turning towards the brown moorlands, the cultivation is
+      exchanged for ridge beyond ridge of total desolation&mdash;a huge tract of
+      land in this crowded England where the population for many square miles at
+      a time consists of the inmates of a lonely farm or two in the
+      circumscribed cultivated areas of the dales.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Eight or nine hundred years ago these valleys were choked up with forests.
+      The Early British inhabitants were more inclined to the hill-tops than the
+      hollows, if the innumerable indications of their settlements be any guide,
+      and there is every reason for believing that many of the hollows in the
+      folds of the heathery moorlands were rarely visited by man. Thus, the
+      suggestion has been made that a few of the last representatives of now
+      extinct monsters may have survived in these wild retreats, for how
+      otherwise do we find persistent stories in these parts of Yorkshire,
+      handed down we cannot tell how many centuries, of strange creatures
+      described as 'worms'? At Loftus they show you the spot where a 'grisly
+      worm' had its lair, and in many places there are traditions of strange
+      long-bodied dragons who were slain by various valiant men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When we remember that the last wolf was killed in Scotland in the
+      seventeenth century, that Africa is still adding to the list of living
+      animals, and that the caves at Kirkdale, near Kirby Moorside, revealed the
+      bones of elephants, tigers, hyenas, and rhinoceroses, in an excellent
+      state of preservation, though they were all broken, we are inclined to
+      believe that these strange stories may have had some basis of fact.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On Easby Moor, a few miles to the south of Roseberry Topping, the tall
+      column to the memory of Captain Cook stands like a lighthouse on this
+      inland coast-line. The lofty position it occupies among these brown and
+      purply-green heights makes the monument visible over a great tract of the
+      sailor's native Cleveland. The people who live in Marton, the village of
+      his birthplace, can see the memorial of their hero's fame, and the country
+      lads of to-day are constantly reminded of the success which attended the
+      industry and perseverance of a humble Marton boy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="023 (104K)" src="images/023.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The cottage where James Cook was born in 1728 has gone, but the field in
+      which it stood is called Cook's Garth. The shop at Staithes, generally
+      spoken of as a 'huckster's,' where Cook was apprenticed as a boy, has also
+      disappeared; but, unfortunately, that unpleasant story of his having taken
+      a shilling from his master's till, when the attractions of the sea proved
+      too much for him to resist, persistently clings to all accounts of his
+      early life. There seems no evidence to convict him of this theft, but
+      there are equally no facts by which to clear him. But if we put into the
+      balance his subsequent term of employment at Whitby, the excellent
+      character he gained when he went to sea, and Professor J.K. Laughton's
+      statement that he left Staithes 'after some disagreement with his master,'
+      there seems every reason to believe that the story is untrue. If it were
+      otherwise, the towering monument on Easby Moor would be a questionable
+      inspiration to posterity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have seldom seen a more uninhabited and inhospitable-looking country
+      than the broad extent of purple hills that stretch away to the south-west
+      from Great Ayton and Kildale Moors. Walking from Guisborough to Kildale on
+      a wild and stormy afternoon in October, I was totally alone for the whole
+      distance when I had left behind me the baker's boy who was on his way to
+      Hutton with a heavy basket of bread and cakes. Hutton, which is somewhat
+      of a model village for the retainers attached to Hutton Hall, stands in a
+      lovely hollow at the edge of the moors. The steep hills are richly clothed
+      with sombre woods, and the peace and seclusion reigning there is in marked
+      contrast to the bleak wastes above. When I climbed the steep road on that
+      autumn afternoon, and, passing the zone of tall, withered bracken, reached
+      the open moorland, I seemed to have come out merely to be the plaything of
+      the elements; for the south-westerly gale, when it chose to do so, blew so
+      fiercely that it was difficult to make any progress at all. Overhead was a
+      dark roof composed of heavy masses of cloud, forming long parallel lines
+      of gray right to the horizon. On each side of the rough, water-worn road
+      the heather made a low wall, two or three feet high, and stretched right
+      away to the horizon in every direction. In the lulls, between the fierce
+      blasts, I could hear the trickle of the water in the rivulets deep down in
+      the springy cushion of heather. A few nimble sheep would stare at me from
+      a distance, and then disappear, or some grouse might hover over a piece of
+      rising ground; but otherwise there were no signs of living creatures.
+      Nearing Kildale, the road suddenly plunged downwards to a stream flowing
+      through a green, cultivated valley, with a lonely farm on the further
+      slope. There was a fir-wood above this, and as I passed over the hill,
+      among the tall, bare stems, the clouds parted a little in the west, and
+      let a flood of golden light into the wood. Instantly the gloom seemed to
+      disappear, and beyond the dark shoulder of moorland, where the Cook
+      monument appeared against the glory of the sunset, there seemed to reign
+      an all-pervading peace, the wood being quite silent, for the wind had
+      dropped.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The rough track through the trees descended hurriedly, and soon gave a
+      wide view over Kildale. The valley was full of colour from the glowing
+      west, and the steep hillsides opposite appeared lighter than the indigo
+      clouds above, now slightly tinged with purple. The little village of
+      Kildale nestled down below, its church half buried in yellow foliage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The railway comes through Eskdale from Whitby to Stockton-on-Tees, and
+      thus gives the formerly remote valley easy communication with the outside
+      world. It is dangerous, however, not to allow an ample margin for catching
+      the trains, for there are only two or three in each direction in the
+      autumn and winter, and a gap of about four hours generally separates the
+      trains. I had been a long ramble over the moors on the north side of
+      Eskdale, and had allowed the sun to set while I was still drawing on the
+      top of Danby Beacon. But, having a good map with me, I was quite confident
+      of finding the road to Lealholm without difficulty, as the distance was
+      only a very few miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The crimson globe in the west disappeared behind the dark horizon over the
+      two Fryup valleys, and left the world in twilight. But it would not be
+      dark for an hour, and except for mistaking the sheep for boulders and
+      boulders for sheep, and being consequently surprised when what I had
+      imagined was a mass of gray stone suddenly disappeared on my approach,
+      nothing unusual happened. I had no fear of losing my way, but what my map
+      had led me to believe would be a plain road was a mere track in the
+      heather, and at times it became too indistinct to follow easily. Lealholm
+      Station lay in the valley on my right, but I could find no road leading
+      there, and I wasted precious time in frequent consultations with the map.
+      Coming to a farm, I inquired the way, and was directed over a number of
+      muddy fields, which gradually brought me down into the valley. It was now
+      sufficiently dark for all the landmarks I had noticed to be scarcely
+      visible, but, on inquiring at a cottage, I was told that it would take
+      only ten minutes to walk to the station. I had a clear quarter of an hour,
+      and, hurrying forward, soon found myself on a railway-bridge over a deep
+      cutting. There was just enough light to see that no station was in sight,
+      and it was impossible to find in which direction the station lay. There
+      was no time to go back to the cottage, and there were no others to be
+      seen. Looking at the map again, I could not discover the position of this
+      bridge, for it was on no road, as it seemed merely to connect the pastures
+      on either side. However, I felt fairly certain that I had rather
+      overstepped the station, and therefore climbed down the bank into the
+      cutting, and commenced walking towards the west. Coming out into the open,
+      I thought I saw the lamps on the platforms about half a mile further on;
+      but on pressing forward the lights became suddenly bigger, and in a minute
+      my train passed me with a thundering rush. Evidently Lealholm was to the
+      east, and not the west of that cutting. It was then 5.40, and the next
+      train left for Whitby at about a quarter to ten. When the tail-lights of
+      the train had disappeared into the cutting, I felt very much alone, and
+      the silence of the countryside became oppressive. It seemed to me that
+      this part of Yorkshire was just as lonely as when Canon Atkinson first
+      commenced his work in Danby parish, and I was reminded of his friend's
+      remark on hearing that he was going there: 'Why, Danby was not found out
+      when they sent Bonaparte to St. Helena, or else they never would have
+      taken the trouble to send him all the way there!'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="024 (51K)" src="images/024.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ruined Danby Castle can still be seen on the slope above the Esk, but
+      the ancient Bow Bridge at Castleton, which was built at the end of the
+      twelfth century, was barbarously and needlessly destroyed in 1873. A
+      picture of the bridge has, fortunately, been preserved in Canon Atkinson's
+      'Forty Years in a Moorland Parish.' That book has been so widely read that
+      it seems scarcely necessary to refer to it here, but without the help of
+      the Vicar, who knew every inch of his wild parish, the Danby district must
+      seem much less interesting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH9" id="link2HCH9">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER VIII<br />GUISBOROUGH AND THE SKELTON VALLEY
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Although a mere fragment of the Augustinian Priory of Guisborough is
+      standing to-day, it is sufficiently imposing to convey a powerful
+      impression of the former size and magnificence of the monastic church.
+      This fragment is the gracefully buttressed east end of the choir, which
+      rises from the level meadow-land to the east of the town. The stonework is
+      now of a greenish-gray tone, but in the shadows there is generally a look
+      of blue. Beyond the ruin and through the opening of the great east window,
+      now bare of tracery, you see the purple moors, with the ever-formidable
+      Roseberry Topping holding its head above the green woods and pastures.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The destruction of the priory took place most probably during the reign of
+      Henry VIII., but there are no recorded facts to give the date of the
+      spoiling of the stately buildings. The materials were probably sold to the
+      highest bidder, for in the town of Guisborough there are scattered many
+      fragments of richly-carved stone, and Ord, one of the historians of
+      Cleveland, says: 'I have beheld with sorrow, and shame, and indignation,
+      the richly ornamented columns and carved architraves of God's temple
+      supporting the thatch of a pig-house.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="025 (114K)" src="images/025.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Norman priory church, founded in 1119, by the wealthy Robert de Brus
+      of Skelton, was, unfortunately, burnt down on May 16, 1289. Walter of
+      Hemingburgh, a canon of Guisborough, has written a quaintly detailed
+      account of the origin of the fire. Translated from the monkish Latin, he
+      says: 'On the first day of rogation-week, a devouring flame consumed our
+      church of Gysburn, with many theological books and nine costly chalices,
+      as well as vestments and sumptuous images; and because past events are
+      serviceable as a guide to future inquiries, I have thought it desirable,
+      in the present little treatise, to give an account of the catastrophe,
+      that accidents of a similar nature may be avoided through this calamity
+      allotted to us. On the day above mentioned, which was very destructive to
+      us, a vile plumber, with his two workmen, burnt our church whilst
+      soldering up two holes in the old lead with fresh pewter. For some days he
+      had already, with a wicked disposition, commenced, and placed his iron
+      crucibles, along with charcoal and fire, on rubbish, or steps of a great
+      height, upon dry wood with some turf and other combustibles. About noon
+      (in the cross, in the body of the church, where he remained at his work
+      until after Mass) he descended before the procession of the convent,
+      thinking that the fire had been put out by his workmen. They, however,
+      came down quickly after him, without having completely extinguished the
+      fire; and the fire among the charcoal revived, and partly from the heat of
+      the iron, and partly from the sparks of the charcoal, the fire spread
+      itself to the wood and other combustibles beneath. After the fire was thus
+      commenced, the lead melted, and the joists upon the beams ignited; and
+      then the fire increased prodigiously, and consumed everything.'
+      Hemingburgh concludes by saying that all that they could get from the
+      culprits was the exclamation, 'Quid potui ego?' Shortly after this
+      disaster the Prior and convent wrote to Edward II., excusing themselves
+      from granting a corrody owing to their great losses through the burning of
+      the monastery, as well as the destruction of their property by the Scots.
+      But Guisborough, next to Fountains, was almost the richest establishment
+      in Yorkshire, and thus in a few years' time there arose from the Norman
+      foundations a stately church and convent built in the Early Decorated
+      style.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Glimpses of the inner life of the priory are given in the Archbishop's
+      registers at York, which show how close and searching were the visitations
+      by the Archbishop in person or his commissioners, and one of the documents
+      throws light on the sad necessity for these inspections. It deals with
+      Archbishop Wickwaine's visit in 1280, and we find that the canons are
+      censured for many short-comings. They were not to go outside the cloister
+      after compline (the last service of the day) on the pretext of visiting
+      guests. They were not to keep expensive schools for rich or poor, unless
+      with special sanction. They were to turn out of the infirmary and punish
+      the persons lying there who were only pretending to be ill, and the really
+      sick were to be more kindly treated. There had evidently been
+      discrimination in the quality of food served out to certain persons in the
+      frater; but this was to be stopped, and food of one kind was to be divided
+      equally. A more strict silence was to be kept in the cloister, and no one
+      was to refrain from joining in the praises of God whilst in the choir.
+      There seems to have been much improper conversation among the canons, for
+      they are specially adjured in Christ to abstain from repeating immoral
+      stories. Some of the canons who had made themselves notorious for
+      quarrelling and caballing were to be debarred from promotion, and were
+      commended to the Prior and Subprior for punishment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In 1309 Simon Constable, a refractory canon of Bridlington, was sent to
+      Guisborough to undergo a course of penance, change of residence being
+      always considered to give an excellent opportunity for thorough reform.
+      However, in this case no good seems to have resulted, for about five years
+      later he was sent back to Bridlington with a worse character than before,
+      and, besides much prayer and humiliation, he was to receive a <i>disciplina</i>
+      every Friday at the hands of the Prior. This made no improvement in his
+      conduct, for in 1321 his behaviour brought him another penance and still
+      greater severity. A few years after this the Archbishop seems to have
+      reproached the community for the conduct of this unruly brother, which was
+      scarcely fair. The last vision of Simon Constable shows him to be as
+      impenitent as ever, and the Archbishop makes the awful threat that, if he
+      does not reform at once, he will be put in a more confined place than he
+      has ever been in before! Can this suggest that the wicked canon was to be
+      bricked up alive?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="026 (109K)" src="images/026.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These internal troubles were not, however, generally known to the outside
+      world, but the unfaltering searchlight of the records falls upon such
+      great folk as Peter de Mauley, fifth Baron Mulgrave, whose castle at
+      Mulgrave, near Whitby, is mentioned elsewhere; Lucy de Thweng, wife of Sir
+      William le Latimer; Sir Nicholas de Meynyl; and Katherine, wife of Sir
+      John Dentorp, whose conduct merely reflected the morals of medieval times.
+      It was, indeed, no uncommon event for the congregation to hear some
+      high-born culprit confessing his sins as he walked barefoot and scantily
+      clothed in the procession in York Minster. An exceedingly beautiful
+      crucifix of copper, richly gilded, was discovered during the early part of
+      last century, when some men were digging amongst the foundations of an old
+      building in Commondale. There seems little doubt that this was a cell or
+      chapel belonging to the monastery, for the crucifix bears the date 1119,
+      the year of the founding of Guisborough Priory. Another metal crucifix,
+      probably belonging to the thirteenth century, was discovered at Ingleby
+      Arncliffe. It was beautifully inlaid with brilliant white, green, red, and
+      blue enamels, and the figure of Christ was discovered to be hollow, and to
+      contain two ancient parchments, written in monkish Latin and scarcely
+      legible. One of them was a charm, addressed to 'ye elves, and demons and
+      all kind of apparition,' who were called upon in the name of the Trinity,
+      the Virgin Mary, the Apostles, Martyrs, Mark, Matthew, Luke, and John, and
+      the elect generally, to 'hurt not this servant of God, Adam Osanna, by
+      night nor by day, but that, through the very great mercy of God Jesus
+      Christ, by the help of Saint Mary, the mother of our Lord Jesus Christ, he
+      may rest in peace from all the aforesaid and other evils.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another intensely interesting relic of the great priory is the altar-tomb,
+      believed to be that of Robert de Brus of Annandale. The stone slabs are
+      now built into the walls on each side of the porch of Guisborough Church.
+      They may have been removed there from the abbey for safety at the time of
+      the dissolution. Hemingburgh, in his chronicle for the year 1294, says:
+      'Robert de Brus the fourth died on the eve of Good Friday; who disputed
+      with John de Balliol, before the King of England, about the succession to
+      the kingdom of Scotland. And, as he ordered when alive, he was buried in
+      the priory of Gysburn with great honour, beside his own father.' A great
+      number of other famous people were buried here in accordance with their
+      wills. Guisborough has even been claimed as the resting-place of Robert
+      Bruce, the champion of Scottish freedom, but there is ample evidence for
+      believing that his heart was buried at Melrose Abbey and his body in the
+      church of Dunfermline.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The memory of Mr. George Venables&mdash;that most excellent man who
+      devoted many years to gathering funds for a charity school in the town&mdash;is
+      preserved on a monument in the church. He had retired from business, but,
+      in order to find the means to start the school, he resumed his labours in
+      London, and devoted the whole of the profits to this useful object.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The central portion of the town of Guisborough, by the market-cross and
+      the two chief inns, is quaint and fairly picturesque, but the long street
+      as it goes westward deteriorates into rows of new cottages, inevitable in
+      a mining country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="027 (117K)" src="images/027.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mining operations have been carried on around Guisborough since the time
+      of Queen Elizabeth, for the discovery of alum dates from that period, and
+      when that industry gradually declined, it was replaced by the iron-mines
+      of to-day. Mr. Thomas Chaloner of Guisborough, in his travels on the
+      Continent about the end of the sixteenth century, saw the Pope's
+      alum-works near Rome, and was determined to start the industry in his
+      native parish of Guisborough, feeling certain that alum could be worked
+      with profit in his own county. As it was essential to have one or two men
+      who were thoroughly versed in the processes of the manufacture, Mr.
+      Chaloner induced some of the Pope's workmen by heavy bribes to come to
+      England. The risks attending this overt act were terrible, for the
+      alum-works brought in a large revenue to His Holiness, and the discovery
+      of such a design would have meant capital punishment to the offender. The
+      workmen were therefore induced to get into large casks, which were
+      secretly conveyed on board a ship that was shortly sailing for England.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When the Pope received the intelligence some time afterwards, he thundered
+      forth against Mr. Chaloner and the workmen the most awful and
+      comprehensive curse. They were to be cursed most wholly and thoroughly in
+      every part of their bodies, every saint was to curse them, and from the
+      thresholds of the holy church of God Almighty they were to be sequestered,
+      that they might 'be tormented, disposed of, and delivered over with Dathan
+      and Abiram, and with those who say unto the Lord God, "Depart from us; we
+      desire not to know Thy ways."'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Despite the fearful nature of the curse, the venture prospered so much
+      that the Darcy family, about the year 1600, set up another works in the
+      neighbourhood of Guisborough; and as this also brought considerable wealth
+      to the owners, a third was started at Sandsend in 1615. Many others
+      followed, and in 1649 Sir Hugh Cholmley started the works close to
+      Saltwick Nab, within a short distance of his house at Whitby. But although
+      there must have been more than twenty of these works in operation in the
+      eighteenth century, owing to cheaper methods of producing alum the
+      industry is now quite extinct in Cleveland.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The broad valley stretching from Guisborough to the sea contains the
+      beautifully wooded park of Skelton Castle. The trees in great masses cover
+      the gentle slopes on either side of the Skelton Beck, and almost hide the
+      modern mansion. The buildings include part of the ancient castle of the
+      Bruces, who were Lords of Skelton for many years. It is recorded that
+      Peter de Brus, one of the barons who helped to coerce John into signing
+      the Great Charter at Runnymede, made a curious stipulation when he granted
+      some lands at Leconfield to Henry Percy, his sister's husband. The
+      property was to be held on condition that every Christmas Day he and his
+      heirs should come to Skelton Castle and lead the lady by the arm from her
+      chamber to the chapel.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The old church of Upleatham, standing by the road to Saltburn, is a quaint
+      fragment of a Norman building. The tower, bearing the inscription 'William
+      Crow, Chvrchwarden Bvlded Stepel&mdash;1664,' is an addition to what is
+      probably only part of the nave of the little Norman building. It is now
+      used merely as a cemetery chapel, but it is picturesquely situated, and on
+      the north wall the carved Norman corbels may still be seen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH10" id="link2HCH10">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER IX<br />FROM PICKERING TO RIEVAULX ABBEY
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The broad Vale of Pickering, watered by the Derwent, the Rye, and their
+      many tributaries, is a wonderful contrast to the country we have been
+      exploring. The level pastures, where cattle graze and cornfields abound,
+      seem to suggest that we are separated from the heather by many leagues;
+      but we have only to look beyond the hedgerows to see that the horizon to
+      the north is formed by lofty moors only a few miles distant.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="028 (131K)" src="images/028.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Just where the low meadows are beginning to rise steadily from the vale
+      stands the town of Pickering, dominated by the lofty stone spire of its
+      parish church and by the broken towers of the castle. There is a wide
+      street, bordered by dark stone buildings, that leads steeply from the
+      river to the church. The houses are as a rule quite featureless, but we
+      have learnt to expect this in a county where stone is abundant, for only
+      the extremely old and the palpably new buildings stand Christ. Then comes
+      Herod's feast, with the King labelled <i>Herodi</i>. The guests are shown
+      with their arms on the table in the most curious positions, and all the
+      royal folk are wearing ermine. The coronation of the Virgin, the martyrdom
+      of St. Thomas a Becket, and the martyrdom of St. Edmund, who is perforated
+      with arrows, complete the series on the north side. Along the south wall
+      the paintings show the story of St. Catherine of Alexandria and the seven
+      Corporal Acts of Mercy. Further on come scenes from the life of our Lord.
+      There seems little doubt that all the paintings, including a number of
+      others in the transepts and elsewhere that are now destroyed, were
+      whitewashed over at the time of the Reformation, and it was during some
+      restoration work carried out in 1851 that indications of the paintings
+      were accidentally laid bare. When the whole of the walls had been cleaned,
+      careful coloured drawings were made, then colour wash was applied again,
+      and the priceless paintings disappeared for a generation. The objections
+      to what had been considered improper wall decoration for a parish church
+      in the nineteenth century having been reasoned away, the pictures once
+      more appeared, but in a very different condition to their first
+      resurrection. However, the drawings were in existence, so that a careful
+      restoration was possible, and as we see them to-day the subdued tones
+      closely follow the original colours.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The simple Norman arcade on the north side of the nave has plain round
+      columns and semicircular arches, but the south side belongs to later
+      Norman times, and has ornate columns and capitals. At least one member of
+      the great Bruce family, who had a house at Pickering called Bruce's Hall,
+      and whose ascendency at Guisborough has already been mentioned, was buried
+      here, for the figure of a knight in chain-mail by the lectern probably
+      represents Sir William Bruce. In the chapel there is a sumptuous monument
+      bearing the effigies of Sir David and Dame Margery Roucliffe. The knight
+      wears the collar of S.S., and his arms are on his surcoat.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When John Leland, the 'Royal Antiquary' employed by Henry VIII., came to
+      Pickering, he described the castle, which was in a more perfect state than
+      it is to-day. He says: 'In the first Court of it be a 4 Toures, of the
+      which one is Caullid Rosamunde's Toure.' Also of the inner court he writes
+      of '4 Toures, wherof the Kepe is one.' This keep and Rosamund's Tower, as
+      well as the ruins of some of the others, are still to be seen on the outer
+      walls, so that from some points of view the ruins are dignified and
+      picturesque. The area enclosed was large, and in early times the castle
+      must have been almost impregnable. But during the Civil War it was much
+      damaged by the soldiers quartered there, and Sir Hugh Cholmley took lead,
+      wood, and iron from it for the defence of Scarborough. The wide view from
+      the castle walls shows better than any description the importance of the
+      position it occupied, and we feel, as we gaze over the vale or northwards
+      to the moors, that this was the dominant power over the whole countryside.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Although Lastingham is not on the road to Helmsley, the few additional
+      miles will scarcely be counted when we are on our way to a church which,
+      besides being architecturally one of the most interesting in the county,
+      is perhaps unique in having at one time had a curate whose wife kept a
+      public house adjoining the church. Although this will scarcely be
+      believed, we have a detailed account of the matter in a little book
+      published in 1806.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="029 (131K)" src="images/029.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The clergyman, whose name was Carter, had to subsist on the slender salary
+      of �20 a year and a few surplice fees. This would not have allowed any
+      margin for luxuries in the case of a bachelor; but this poor man was
+      married, and he had thirteen children. He was a keen fisherman, and his
+      angling in the moorland streams produced a plentiful supply of fish&mdash;in
+      fact, more than his family could consume. But this, even though he often
+      exchanged part of his catches with neighbours, was not sufficient to keep
+      the wolf from the door, and drastic measures had to be taken. The parish
+      was large, and, as many of the people were obliged to come 'from ten to
+      fifteen miles' to church, it seemed possible that some profit might be
+      made by serving refreshments to the parishioners. Mrs. Carter
+      superintended this department, and it seems that the meals between the
+      services soon became popular. But the story of 'a parson-publican' was
+      soon conveyed to the Archdeacon of the diocese, who at the next visitation
+      endeavoured to find out the truth of the matter. Mr. Carter explained the
+      circumstances, and showed that, far from being a source of disorder, his
+      wife's public-house was an influence for good. 'I take down my violin,' he
+      continued, 'and play them a few tunes, which gives me an opportunity of
+      seeing that they get no more liquor than necessary for refreshment; and if
+      the young people propose a dance, I seldom answer in the negative;
+      nevertheless, when I announce time for return, they are ever ready to obey
+      my commands.' The Archdeacon appears to have been a broad-minded man, for
+      he did not reprimand Mr. Carter at all; and as there seems to have been no
+      mention of an increased stipend, the parson-publican must have continued
+      this strange anomaly.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is difficult to say whether the public-house was conducted in the crypt
+      beneath the church or not. I am inclined to think that Mrs. Carter's inn
+      was the present 'Blacksmith's Arms,' but there is distinct evidence for
+      stating that cock-fighting used to take place secretly in the crypt. The
+      writings of the Venerable Bede give a special interest to Lastingham, for
+      he tells us how King Oidilward requested Bishop Cedd to build a monastery
+      there. The Saxon buildings that appeared at that time have gone, so that
+      the present church cannot be associated with the seventh century. No doubt
+      the destruction was the work of the Danes, who plundered the whole of this
+      part of Yorkshire. The church that exists to-day is of Transitional Norman
+      date, and the beautiful little crypt, which has an apse, nave and aisles,
+      is coeval with the superstructure.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The situation of Lastingham in a deep and picturesque valley surrounded by
+      moors and overhung by woods is extremely rich.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Further to the west there are a series of beautiful dales, watered by
+      becks whose sources are among the Cleveland Hills. On our way to Ryedale,
+      the loveliest of these, we pass through Kirby Moorside, a little town
+      which has gained a place in history as the scene of the death of the
+      notorious George Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham, on April 17, 1687.
+      The house in which he died is on the south side of the King's Head, and in
+      one of the parish registers there is the entry under the date of April
+      19th, 'Gorges viluas, Lord dooke of Bookingam, etc.' Further down the
+      street stands an inn with a curious porch, supported by turned wooden
+      pillars, bearing the inscription:
+    </p>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p>
+        'Anno: Dom 1632 October xi William Wood'
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <p>
+      Kirkdale, with its world-renowned cave, to which we have already referred,
+      lies about two miles to the west. The quaint little Saxon church there is
+      one of the few bearing evidences of its own date, ascertained by the
+      discovery in 1771 of a Saxon sundial, which had survived under a layer of
+      plaster, and was also protected by the porch. A translation of the
+      inscription reads: 'Orm, the son of Gamal, bought St. Gregory's Minster
+      when it was all broken and fallen, and he caused it to be made anew from
+      the ground, for Christ and St. Gregory, in the days of King Edward and in
+      the days of Earl Tosti, and Hawarth wrought me and Brand the prior (priest
+      or priests).' By this we are plainly told that a church was built there in
+      the reign of Edward the Confessor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A pleasant road leads through Nawton to the beautiful little town of
+      Helmsley. A bend of the broad, swift-flowing Rye forms one boundary of the
+      place, and is fed by a gushing brook that finds its way from Rievaulx
+      Moor, and forms a pretty feature of the main street. The cottages in many
+      cases have preserved their thatched roofs, and have seldom more than one
+      story; but they invariably appear well preserved and carefully painted,
+      although these stone-built houses, with leaded casements, give little
+      scope for ornament. But the Helmsley folk have realized the importance of
+      white paint, and the window-frames, and even the strips of lead that hold
+      the glass together, are picked out in this cheerful fashion. In the broad
+      market-square the houses are large, but their gray respectability is
+      broken by creepers and some pleasant spots of colour. The corner nearest
+      to the church is particularly noticeable on account of a most picturesque
+      gabled house, with a timber-framed upper floor&mdash;a style of
+      construction exceedingly rare in these parts of Yorkshire. The old stone
+      cross, raised above its worn steps, stands in the open space close to the
+      modern market hall, and humbly allows the central position to be occupied
+      by a Gothic cross recently erected to the memory of the late Lord
+      Feversham, of Duncombe Park.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="030 (108K)" src="images/030.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A narrow turning by the market-house shows the torn and dishevelled
+      fragment of the keep of Helmsley Castle towering above the thatched roofs
+      in the foreground. The ruin is surrounded by tall elms, and from this
+      point of view, when backed by a cloudy sunset, makes a wonderful picture.
+      Like Scarborough, this stronghold was held for the King during the Civil
+      War. After the Battle of Marston Moor and the fall of York, Fairfax came
+      to Helmsley and invested the castle. He received a wound in the shoulder
+      during the siege; but the garrison having surrendered on honourable terms,
+      the Parliament ordered that the castle should be dismantled, and the
+      thoroughness with which the instructions were carried out remind one of
+      Knaresborough, for one side of the keep was blown to pieces by a terrific
+      explosion and nearly everything else was destroyed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All the beauty and charm of this lovely district is accentuated in
+      Ryedale, and when we have accomplished the three long uphill miles to
+      Rievaulx, and come out upon the broad grassy terrace above the abbey, we
+      seem to have entered a Land of Beulah. We see a peaceful valley overlooked
+      on all sides by lofty hills, whose steep sides are clothed with luxuriant
+      woods; we see the Rye flowing past broad green meadows; and beneath the
+      tree-covered precipice below our feet appear the solemn, roofless remains
+      of one of the first Cistercian monasteries established in this country.
+      There is nothing to disturb the peace that broods here, for the village
+      consists of a mere handful of old and picturesque cottages, and we might
+      stay on the terrace for hours, and, beyond the distant shouts of a few
+      children at play and the crowing of some cocks, hear nothing but the hum
+      of insects and the singing of birds. We take a steep path through the wood
+      which leads us down to the abbey ruins.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The magnificent Early English choir and the Norman transepts stand
+      astonishingly complete in their splendid decay, and the lower portions of
+      the nave, which, until 1922, lay buried beneath masses of grass-grown
+      d�bris, are now exposed to view. The richly-draped hill-sides appear as a
+      succession of beautiful pictures framed by the columns and arches on each
+      side of the choir. As they stand exposed to the weather, the perfectly
+      proportioned mouldings, the clustered pillars in a wonderfully good state
+      of preservation, and the almost uninjured celestory are more impressive
+      than in an elaborately-restored cathedral.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:80%;">
+      <img alt="031 (92K)" src="images/031.jpg" width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &nbsp;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Yorkshire--Coast &amp; Moorland Scenes, by Gordon Home
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+</html>
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+Project Gutenberg's Yorkshire--Coast & Moorland Scenes, by Gordon Home
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Yorkshire--Coast & Moorland Scenes
+
+Author: Gordon Home
+
+Release Date: January 22, 2004 [EBook #10795]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YORKSHIRE--COAST & MOORLAND SCENES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Ted Garvin, Ginny Brewer and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+
+
+YORKSHIRE COAST AND MOORLAND SCENES
+
+Painted and Described
+
+By
+
+GORDON HOME
+
+_Second Edition_
+
+
+1907
+
+
+
+
+_First Edition published April 26, 1904
+Second Edition published April, 1907_
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+It may seem almost superfluous to explain that this book does not deal
+with the whole of Yorkshire, for it would obviously be impossible to get
+even a passing glimpse of such a great tract of country in a book of
+this nature. But I have endeavoured to give my own impressions of much
+of the beautiful coast-line, and also some idea of the character of the
+moors and dales of the north-east portion of the county.
+
+I have described the Dale Country in a companion volume to this,
+entitled 'Yorkshire Dales and Fells.'
+
+GORDON HOME.
+
+EPSOM, 1907.
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+  ACROSS THE MOORS FROM PICKERING TO WHITBY
+
+CHAPTER II
+  ALONG THE ESK VALLEY
+
+CHAPTER III
+  THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO REDCAR
+
+CHAPTER IV
+  THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO SCARBOROUGH
+
+CHAPTER V
+  SCARBOROUGH
+
+CHAPTER VI
+  WHITBY
+
+CHAPTER VII
+  THE CLEVELAND HILLS
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+  GUISBOROUGH AND THE SKELTON VALLEY
+
+CHAPTER IX
+  FROM PICKERING TO RIEVAULX ABBEY
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+  1. On Barnby Moor
+  2. Goathland Moor
+  3. An Autumn Scene on the Esk
+  4. Sleights Moor from Swart Houc Cross
+  5. A Stormy Afternoon
+  6. East Row, Sandsend
+  7. In Mulgrave Woods
+  8. Runswick Bay
+  9. A Sunny Afternoon at Runswick
+ 10. Sunrise from Staithes Beck
+ 11. Three Generations at Staithes
+ 12. Boulby Cliffs from Staithes Scaur
+ 13. The Coast at Saltburn
+ 14. Whitby Abbey from the Cliffs
+ 15. Robin Hood's Bay
+ 16. A Street in Robin Hood's Bay
+ 17. Scarborough Harbour and Castle
+ 18. Sunlight and Shadows in Whitby Harbour
+ 19. The Red Roofs of Whitby
+ 20. Evening at Whitby
+ 21. The Cleveland Hills from above Kildale
+ 22. Hutton Woods, near Guisborough
+ 23. A Wide Expanse of Heather seen from Great Ayton Moor
+ 24. A Golden Afternoon, Danby
+ 25. A Sunset from Danby Beacon
+ 26. An Autumn Day at Guisborough
+ 27. A Yorkshire Postman
+ 28. The Skelton Valley
+ 29. In Pickering Church
+ 30. The Market-place, Helmsley
+ 31. Rievaulx Abbey from 'The Terrace'
+
+_Map at end of volume_
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+ACROSS THE MOORS FROM PICKERING TO WHITBY
+
+
+The ancient stone-built town of Pickering is to a great extent the
+gateway to the moors of Northeastern Yorkshire, for it stands at the
+foot of that formerly inaccessible gorge known as Newton Dale, and is
+the meeting-place of the four great roads running north, south, east,
+and west, as well as of railways going in the same directions. And this
+view of the little town is by no means original, for the strategic
+importance of the position was recognised at least as long ago as the
+days of the early Edwards, when the castle was built to command the
+approach to Newton Dale and to be a menace to the whole of the Vale of
+Pickering.
+
+The old-time traveller from York to Whitby saw practically nothing of
+Newton Dale, for the great coach-road bore him towards the east, and
+then, on climbing the steep hill up to Lockton Low Moor, he went almost
+due north as far as Sleights. But to-day everyone passes right through
+the gloomy canyon, for the railway now follows the windings of Pickering
+Beck, and nursemaids and children on their way to the seaside may gaze
+at the frowning cliffs which seventy years ago were only known to
+travellers and a few shepherds. But although this great change has been
+brought about by railway enterprise, the gorge is still uninhabited, and
+has lost little of its grandeur; for when the puny train, with its
+accompanying white cloud, has disappeared round one of the great bluffs,
+there is nothing left but the two pairs of shining rails, laid for long
+distances almost on the floor of the ravine. But though there are steep
+gradients to be climbed, and the engine labours heavily, there is
+scarcely sufficient time to get any idea of the astonishing scenery from
+the windows of the train, and you can see nothing of the huge expanses
+of moorland stretching away from the precipices on either side. So that
+we, who would learn something of this region, must make the journey on
+foot; for a bicycle would be an encumbrance when crossing the heather,
+and there are many places where a horse would be a source of danger. The
+sides of the valley are closely wooded for the first seven or eight
+miles north of Pickering, but the surrounding country gradually loses
+its cultivation, at first gorse and bracken, and then heather, taking
+the place of the green pastures.
+
+At the village of Newton, perched on high ground far above the dale, we
+come to the limit of civilization. The sun is nearly setting. The
+cottages are scattered along the wide roadway and the strip of grass,
+broken by two large ponds, which just now reflect the pale evening sky.
+Straight in front, across the green, some ancient barns are thrown up
+against the golden sunset, and the long perspective of white road, the
+geese, and some whitewashed gables, stand out from the deepening tones
+of the grass and trees. A footpath by the inn leads through some dewy
+meadows to the woods, above Levisham Station in the valley below. At
+first there are glimpses of the lofty moors on the opposite side of the
+dale, where the sides of the bluffs are still glowing in the sunset
+light; but soon the pathway plunges steeply into a close wood, where the
+foxes are barking, and where the intense darkness is only emphasized by
+the momentary illumination given by lightning, which now and then
+flickers in the direction of Lockton Moor. At last the friendly little
+oil-lamps on the platform at Levisham Station appear just below, and
+soon the railway is crossed and we are mounting the steep road on the
+opposite side of the valley. What is left of the waning light shows the
+rough track over the heather to High Horcum. The huge shoulders of the
+moors are now majestically indistinct, and towards the west the browns,
+purples, and greens are all merged in one unfathomable blackness. The
+tremendous silence and the desolation become almost oppressive, but
+overhead the familiar arrangement of the constellations gives a sense of
+companionship not to be slighted. In something less than an hour a light
+glows in the distance, and, although the darkness is now complete, there
+is no further need to trouble ourselves with the thought of spending the
+night on the heather. The point of light develops into a lighted window,
+and we are soon stamping our feet on the hard, smooth road in front of
+the Saltersgate Inn. The door opens straight into a large stone-flagged
+room. Everything is redolent of coaching days, for the cheery glow of
+the fire shows a spotlessly clean floor, old high-backed settles, a gun
+hooked to one of the beams overhead, quaint chairs and oak stools, and a
+fox's mask and brush. A gamekeeper is warming himself at the fire, for
+the evening is chilly, and the firelight falls on his box-cloth gaiters
+and heavy boots, as we begin to talk of the loneliness and the dangers
+of the moors, and of the snowstorms in winter, that almost bury the low
+cottages and blot out all but the boldest landmarks. Soon we are
+discussing the superstitions which still survive among the simple
+country-folk, and the dark and lonely wilds we have just left make this
+a subject of great fascination.
+
+Although we have heard it before, we hear over again with intense
+interest the story of the witch who brought constant ill-luck to a
+family in these parts. Their pigs were never free from some form of
+illness, their cows died, their horses lamed themselves, and even the
+milk was so far under the spell that on churning-days the butter refused
+to come unless helped by a crooked sixpence. One day, when as usual they
+had been churning in vain, instead of resorting to the sixpence, the
+farmer secreted himself in an outbuilding, and, gun in hand, watched the
+garden from a small opening. As it was growing dusk he saw a hare coming
+cautiously through the hedge. He fired instantly, the hare rolled over,
+dead, and almost as quickly the butter came. That same night they heard
+that the old woman, whom they had long suspected of bewitching them, had
+suddenly died at the same time as the hare, and henceforward the farmer
+and his family prospered.
+
+In the light of morning the isolation of the inn is more apparent than
+at night. A compact group of stable buildings and barns stands on the
+opposite side of the road, and there are two or three lonely-looking
+cottages, but everywhere else the world is purple and brown with ling
+and heather. The morning sun has just climbed high enough to send a
+flood of light down the steep hill at the back of the barns, and we can
+hear the hum of the bees in the heather. In the direction of Levisham is
+Gallows Dyke, the great purple bluff we passed in the darkness, and a
+few yards off the road makes a sharp double bend to get up Saltersgate
+Brow, the hill that overlooks the enormous circular bowl of Horcum Hole,
+where Levisham Beck rises. The farmer whose buildings can be seen down
+below contrives to paint the bottom of the bowl a bright green, but the
+ling comes hungrily down on all sides, with evident longings to absorb
+the scanty cultivation. The Dwarf Cornel, a little mountain-plant which
+flowers in July, is found in this 'hole.' A few patches have been
+discovered in the locality, but elsewhere it is not known south of
+the Cheviots.
+
+Away to the north the road crosses the desolate country like a
+pale-green ribbon. It passes over Lockton High Moor, climbs to 700 feet
+at Tom Cross Rigg, and then disappears into the valley of Eller Beck, on
+Goathland Moor, coming into view again as it climbs steadily up to
+Sleights Moor, nearly 1,000 feet above the sea. An enormous stretch of
+moorland spreads itself out towards the west. Near at hand is the
+precipitous gorge of Upper Newton Dale, backed by Pickering Moor, and
+beyond are the heights of Northdale Rigg and Rosedale Common, with the
+blue outlines of Ralph Cross and Danby Head right on the horizon.
+
+The smooth, well-built road, with short grass filling the crevices
+between the stones, urges us to follow its straight course northwards;
+but the sternest and most remarkable portion of Upper Newton Dale lies
+to the left, across the deep heather, and we are tempted aside to reach
+the lip of the sinuous gorge nearly a mile away to the west, where the
+railway runs along the marshy and boulder-strewn bottom of a natural
+cutting 500 feet deep. The cliffs drop down quite perpendicularly for
+200 feet, and the remaining distance to the bed of the stream is a rough
+slope, quite bare in places, and in others densely grown over with
+trees; but on every side the fortress-like scarps are as stern and bare
+as any that face the ocean. Looking north or south the gorge seems
+completely shut in. There is much the same effect when steaming through
+the Kyles of Bute, for there the ship seems to be going full speed for
+the shore of an entirely enclosed sea, and here, saving for the
+tell-tale railway, there seems no way out of the abyss without scaling
+the perpendicular walls. The rocks are at their finest at Killingnoble
+Scar, where they take the form of a semicircle on the west side of the
+railway. The scar was for a very long period famous for the breed of
+hawks, which were specially watched by the Goathland men for the use of
+James I., and the hawks were not displaced from their eyrie even by the
+incursion of the railway into the glen, and only recently
+became extinct.
+
+Newton Dale Well, at the foot of the scar, used to attract the country
+people for miles round, to the fair held there on Midsummer Day, when
+strange ceremonies were performed in order to insure the beneficent
+influence of the waters. The custom survived until the beginning of last
+century, but now it is not easy to even find the position of the well.
+Very few people living in Whitby or Pickering had any idea of the
+grandeur of the scenery of Newton Dale when the first official journey
+was made by railway between the two towns. This was in 1836, but the
+coaches were drawn by horses on the levels and up the inclines, for it
+was before the days of the steam-locomotive.
+
+However, the opening of the line caused great enthusiasm and local
+excitement, necessitating the services of numbers of policemen to keep
+the people off the rails. When the separate coaches had been hauled to
+the highest part of the dale, the horses were detached, and the vehicles
+were joined up with connecting bars. Then the train was allowed to rush
+through the pass at what was considered the dangerous speed of twenty
+miles an hour. For the benefit of those who enjoyed the great pace, the
+driver allowed the train to go at thirty miles an hour, and then, to
+show his complete control over the carriages, he applied the brakes and
+came to a standstill on the steep gradient. But for the existence of the
+long, narrow ravine right through the heart of these lofty moors, we may
+reasonably doubt whether Whitby would ever have been joined with York
+other than by way of the coast-line to Scarborough.
+
+We can cross the line near Eller Beck, and, going over Goathland Moor,
+explore the wooded sides of Wheeldale Beck and its waterfalls. Mallyan's
+Spout is the most imposing, having a drop of about 76 feet. The village
+of Goathland has thrown out skirmishers towards the heather in the form
+of an ancient-looking but quite modern church, with a low central tower,
+and a little hotel, stone-built and fitting well into its surroundings.
+The rest of the village is scattered round a large triangular green, and
+extends down to the railway, where there is a station named after
+the village.
+
+The rolling masses of Sleights Moor rise up steeply towards the east,
+and from the coach-road to Whitby that we deserted at the Saltersgate
+Inn there is an enormous panorama over Eskdale, Whitby, and the sea.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+ALONG THE ESK VALLEY
+
+
+To see the valley of the Esk in its richest garb, one must wait for a
+spell of fine autumn weather, when a prolonged ramble can be made along
+the riverside and up on the moorland heights above. For the dense
+woodlands, which are often merely pretty in midsummer, become
+astonishingly lovely as the foliage draping the steep hillsides takes on
+its gorgeous colours, and the gills and becks on the moors send down a
+plentiful supply of water to fill the dales with the music of
+rushing streams.
+
+Climbing up the road towards Larpool, we take a last look at quaint old
+Whitby, spread out before us almost like those wonderful old prints of
+English towns they loved to publish in the eighteenth century. But
+although every feature is plainly visible--the church, the abbey, the
+two piers, the harbour, the old town and the new--the detail is all lost
+in that soft mellowness of a sunny autumn day. We find an enthusiastic
+photographer expending plates on this familiar view, which is sold all
+over the town; but we do not dare to suggest that the prints, however
+successful, will be painfully hackneyed, and we go on rejoicing that the
+questions of stops and exposures need not trouble us, for the world is
+ablaze with colour.
+
+Beyond the great red viaduct, whose central piers are washed by the
+river far below, the road plunges into the golden shade of the woods
+near Cock Mill, and then comes out by the river's bank down below, with
+the little village of Ruswarp on the opposite shore. The railway goes
+over the Esk just below the dam, and does its very best to spoil every
+view of the great mill built in 1752 by Mr. Nathaniel Cholmley. However,
+from the road towards Sleights the huge building looks picturesque
+enough, with the river flowing smoothly over the broad dam fringed by
+the delicate faded greens and browns of the trees. The mill, with its
+massive roof and projecting eaves, suggests in a most remarkable fashion
+one of the huge gate-houses of the Chinese Imperial Palace at Peking.
+
+The road follows close beside the winding river, and all the way to
+Sleights there are lovely glimpses of the shimmering waters, reflecting
+the overhanging masses of foliage. The golden yellow of a bush growing
+at the water's edge will be backed by masses of brown woods that here
+and there have retained suggestions of green, contrasted with the deep
+purple tones of their shadowy recesses. These lovely phases of Eskdale
+scenery are denied to the summer visitor, but there are few who would
+wish to have the riverside solitudes rudely broken into by the passing
+of boatloads of holiday-makers. Just before reaching Sleights Bridge we
+leave the tree-embowered road, and, going through a gate, find a
+stone-flagged pathway that climbs up the side of the valley with great
+deliberation, so that we are soon at a great height, with a magnificent
+sweep of landscape towards the south-west, and the keen air blowing
+freshly from the great table-land of Egton High Moor.
+
+A little higher, and we are on the road in Aislaby village. The steep
+climb from the river and railway has kept off those modern influences
+which have made Sleights and Grosmont architecturally depressing, and
+thus we find a simple village on the edge of the heather, with
+picturesque stone cottages and pretty gardens, free from companionship
+with the painfully ugly modern stone house, with its thin slate roof.
+The big house of the village stands on the very edge of the descent,
+surrounded by high trees now swept bare of leaves.
+
+The first time I visited Aislaby I reached the little hamlet when it was
+nearly dark. Sufficient light, however, remained in the west to show up
+the large house standing in the midst of the swaying branches. One dim
+light appeared in the blue-gray mass, and the dead leaves were blown
+fiercely by the strong gusts of wind. On the other side of the road
+stood an old gray house, whose appearance that gloomy evening well
+supported the statement that it was haunted. The classic front appeared
+behind an imposing gateway approached by a curious flat bridge across a
+circular pond which had a solid stone edging. The low parapets of the
+bridge were cut into a strange serpentine form. I gazed at the front of
+the house, backed by the dim outline of the moor beyond; but, though the
+place was silent enough, I could hear no strange sounds, and the windows
+remained black and impassive.
+
+I left the village in the gathering gloom and was soon out on the
+heather. Away on the left, but scarcely discernible, was Swart Houe
+Cross, on Egton Low Moor, and straight in front lay the Skelder Inn. A
+light gleamed from one of the lower windows, and by it I guided my
+steps, being determined to partake of tea before turning my steps
+homeward. I stepped into the little parlour, with its sanded floor, and
+demanded 'fat rascals' and tea. The girl was not surprised at my
+request, for the hot turf cakes supplied at the inn are known to all the
+neighbourhood by this unusual name, although they are not particularly
+fat, and are so extremely palatable that one would gladly call them by a
+friendlier name.
+
+But though the gloom of an autumn evening emphasizes the loneliness of
+the inn, it blots out the beautiful views which extend in every
+direction over dales and woodland, as well as the sea and moors. Whitby
+shows itself beyond the windmill as a big town dominated by a great
+rectangular building looking as much like a castle as an hotel, the
+abbey being less conspicuous from here than from most points of view.
+Northwards are the dense woods at Mulgrave, the coast as far as
+Kettleness, and the wide, almost limitless moors in the direction of
+Guisborough. The road to that ancient town goes straight up the hill
+past Swart Houe Cross, which forms the horizon in the picture reproduced
+as the frontispiece of this volume. Up on that high ground you can see
+right across the valley of the Esk in both directions. The course of the
+river itself is hidden by the shoulders of Egton Low Moor beneath us,
+but faint sounds of the shunting of trucks are carried up to the
+heights. Even when the deep valleys are warmest, and when their
+atmosphere is most suggestive of a hot-house, these moorland heights
+rejoice in a keen, dry air, which seems to drive away the slightest
+sense of fatigue, so easily felt on the lower levels, and to give in its
+place a vigour that laughs at distance. Up here, too, the whole world
+seems left to Nature, the levels of cultivation being almost out of
+sight, and anything under 800 feet seems low. Towards the end of August
+the heights are capped with purple, although the distant moors, however
+brilliant they may appear when close at hand, generally assume more
+delicate shades, fading into grays and blues on the horizon.
+
+But however much the moors may attract us, we started out with the
+intention of seeing something of Eskdale. We will therefore take a
+turning out of the Guisborough road, and go down the hill to Egton
+village, where there is a church with some Norman pillars and arches
+preserved from the rebuilding craze that despoiled Yorkshire of half its
+ecclesiastical antiquities. Making our way along the riverside to
+Grosmont, we come to the enormous heaps above the pits of the now
+disused iron-mines. This was the birthplace of the Cleveland Ironworks,
+and Grosmont was at one time more famous than Middlesbrough. The first
+cargo of ironstone was sent from here in 1836, when the Pickering and
+Whitby Railway was opened. However interesting Grosmont may sound in
+books, it is a dull place; for the knowledge that the name was
+originally Grandimont, from the small priory founded about 1200, and
+named after the abbey in Normandy to which it was attached, does not
+excite much interest when there is nothing to see but a farmhouse on the
+site, and the modern place consists of a railway-junction, some deserted
+mines, and many examples of the modern Yorkshire house.
+
+Everything that Nature can do to make amends for this uninteresting spot
+is lavishly squandered upon the valley, for wherever man has left things
+alone there are heavy canopies of foliage, and mossy boulders among the
+rushing streams; and if you will but take the trouble to climb up to the
+heather, even the mines are dwarfed into insignificance. We will go up
+the steep road to the top of Sleights Moor. It is a long stiff climb of
+nearly 900 feet, but the view is one of the very finest in this country,
+where wide expanses soon become commonplace. We are sufficiently high to
+look right across Fylingdales Moor to the sea beyond, a soft haze of
+pearly blue over the hard, rugged outline of the ling. Away towards the
+north, too, the landscape for many miles is limited only by the same
+horizon of sea, so that we seem to be looking at a section of a very
+large scale contour map of England. Below us on the western side runs
+the Mirk Esk, draining the heights upon which we stand as well as Egton
+High Moor and Wheeldale Moor. The confluence with the Esk at Grosmont is
+lost in a haze of smoke and a confusion of roofs and railway-lines; and
+the course of the larger river in the direction of Glaisdale is also
+hidden behind the steep slopes of Egton High Moor. Towards the south we
+gaze over a vast desolation, crossed by the coach-road to York as it
+rises and falls over the swells of the heather. The queer isolated cone
+of Blakey Topping and the summit of Gallows Dyke, close to Saltersgate,
+appear above the distant ridges.
+
+The route of the great Roman road from the South to Dunsley Bay can also
+be seen from these heights. It passes straight through Cawthorn Camp, on
+the ridge to the west of the village of Newton, and then runs along
+within a few yards of the by-road from Picketing to Egton. It crosses
+Wheeldale Beck, and skirts the ancient dyke round July or Julian Park,
+at one time a hunting-seat of the great De Mauley family. The road is
+about 12 feet wide, and is now deep in heather; but it is slightly
+raised above the general level of the ground, and can therefore be
+followed fairly easily where it has not been taken up to build walls for
+enclosures. Of greater antiquity, but much more easily discovered, are
+the bride stones close at hand on Sleights Moor. Several of the stones
+have fallen, but three of them are still standing erect, the tallest
+being 7 feet high. It is not easy to discover any particular form from
+the standing and recumbent stones, for they neither make a circle nor do
+they seem to be directed to any particular point of the compass; but it
+is quite possible that these monoliths were put up by Early Man as a
+means of recording the seasons, in somewhat the same manner as
+Stonehenge is an example of the orientated temple of Neolithic times.
+
+If we go down into the valley beneath us by a road bearing south-west,
+we shall find ourselves at Beck Hole, where there is a pretty group of
+stone cottages, backed by some tall firs. The Eller Beck is crossed by a
+stone bridge close to its confluence with the Mirk Esk. Above the
+bridge, a footpath among the huge boulders winds its way by the side of
+the rushing beck to Thomasin Foss, where the little river falls in two
+or three broad silver bands into a considerable pool. Great masses of
+overhanging rock, shaded by a leafy roof, shut in the brimming waters.
+
+It is not difficult to find the way from Beck Hole to the Roman camp on
+the hillside towards Egton Bridge. The Roman road from Cawthorn goes
+right through it, but beyond this it is not easy to trace, although
+fragments have been discovered as far as Aislaby, all pointing to
+Dunsley or Sandsend Bay. Round the shoulder of the hill we come down
+again to the deeply-wooded valley of the Esk. No river can be seen, but
+when we enter the shade of the trees the sound of many waters fills the
+air. What was once a thick green roof is now thin and yellow, and under
+our feet is a yielding carpet of soft brown and orange leaves. Rare and
+luxuriant mosses grow at the foot of the trees, on dead wood, and on the
+damp stones, and everywhere the rich woodland scent of decay meets the
+nostrils. In the midst of all these evidences of rampant natural
+conditions we come to Glaisdale End, where a graceful stone bridge of a
+single arch stands over the rushing stream. The initials of the builder
+and the date appear on the eastern side of what is now known as the
+Beggar's Bridge. It was formerly called Firris Bridge, after the
+builder, but the popular interest in the story of its origin seems to
+have killed the old name. If you ask anyone in Whitby to mention some of
+the sights of the neighbourhood, he will probably head his list with the
+Beggar's Bridge, but why this is so I cannot imagine. The woods are very
+beautiful, but this is a country full of the loveliest dales, and the
+presence of this single-arched bridge does not seem sufficient to have
+attracted so much popularity. I can only attribute it to the love
+interest associated with the beggar. He was, we may imagine, the
+Alderman Thomas Firris who, as a penniless youth, came to bid farewell
+to his betrothed, who lived somewhere on the opposite side of the river.
+Finding the stream impassable, he is said to have determined that if he
+came back from his travels as a rich man he would put up a bridge on the
+spot he had been prevented from crossing. It is not a very remarkable
+story, even if it be true, but it has given the bridge a fame scarcely
+proportionate to its merits.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO REDCAR
+
+
+Along the three miles of sand running northwards from Whitby at the foot
+of low alluvial cliffs, I have seen some of the finest sea-pictures on
+this part of the coast. But although I have seen beautiful effects at
+all times of the day, those that I remember more than any others are the
+early mornings, when the sun was still low in the heavens, when,
+standing on that fine stretch of yellow sand, one seemed to breathe an
+atmosphere so pure, and to gaze at a sky so transparent, that some of
+those undefined longings for surroundings that have never been realized
+were instinctively uppermost in the mind. It is, I imagine, that vague
+recognition of perfection which has its effect on even superficial minds
+when impressed with beautiful scenery, for to what other cause can be
+attributed the remark one hears, that such scenes 'make one feel good'?
+
+Heavy waves, overlapping one another in their fruitless bombardment of
+the smooth shelving sand, are filling the air with a ceaseless thunder.
+The sun, shining from a sky of burnished gold, throws into silhouette
+the twin lighthouses at the entrance to Whitby Harbour, and turns the
+foaming wave-tops into a dazzling white, accentuated by the long shadows
+of early day. Away to the north-west is Sandsend Ness, a bold headland
+full of purple and blue shadows, and straight out to sea, across the
+white-capped waves, are two tramp steamers, making, no doubt, for South
+Shields or some port where a cargo of coal can be picked up. They are
+plunging heavily, and every moment their bows seem to go down too far
+to recover.
+
+On mornings when the sea is quieter there are few who can resist the
+desire to plunge into the blue waters, for at seven o'clock the shore is
+so entirely deserted that one seems to be bathing from some primeval
+shore where no other forms of life may be expected than some giant
+crustaceans. This thought, perhaps, prompted the painful sensations I
+allowed to prey upon me one night when I was walking along this
+particular piece of shore from Whitby. I had decided to save time over
+the road to Sandsend by getting on to the beach at Upgang, where the
+lifeboat-house stands, by the entrance to a small beck. So dark was the
+night that I could scarcely be sure that I had not lost my way, until I
+had carefully felt the walls of the boat-house. Then I stepped
+cautiously on to the sand, which I discovered as soon as my feet began
+sinking at every step.
+
+The harbour lights of Whitby were bright enough, but in the other
+direction I could be sure of nothing. At first I seemed to have made a
+mistake as to the state of the tide, for there appeared to be a
+whiteness nearly up to the base of the cliffs; but this proved to be the
+suffused glow from the lighthouses. Rain had been falling heavily for
+the last few days, and had produced so many wide streams across the sand
+that my knowledge of the usual ones merely hampered me. At first I began
+stepping carefully over large black hollows in the sand, and then a
+great black mark would show itself, which, offering no resistance to my
+stick as I drew it across its surface, I could only imagine to be caused
+by a flood of ink poured upon the beach by some horrible squid. My
+musings on whether sea-monsters did ever disport themselves on the shore
+under the cover of sufficiently dark nights would be broken into by
+discovering that I had plunged into a stream of undiscoverable
+dimensions, whose existence only revealed itself by the splash of my
+boots. Retreating cautiously, I would take a run, and then a terrific
+leap into the darkness, sometimes finding myself on firm dry sand, and
+as frequently in the water.
+
+I had decided that I should probably not reach Sandsend until daylight,
+when a red lamp near the railway-bridge shone out as a beacon, and I
+realized that I would soon be safe from the tentacles of sea-monsters.
+
+When I awoke next morning, I dashed out on to the beach, and commenced
+to walk rapidly in the direction of Whitby, in the hope that the tide
+had left some of those black stains still showing. I wanted, also, to
+examine some of the queer ridges I had so often stepped over, and some
+of the rivers I had leapt. The rivers were there wide enough in places,
+but nothing in the way of a ridge or any signs of those inky patches
+could I discern. Careful examination showed, however, that here and
+there the smooth shore was covered with sand of a rather reddish hue,
+quite unworthy of remark in daylight. The foolishness of my
+apprehensions seems apparent, but nevertheless I urge everyone to choose
+a moonlit night and a companion of some sort for traversing these three
+miles after sunset.
+
+The two little becks finding their outlet at East Row and Sandsend are
+lovely to-day; but their beauty must have been much more apparent before
+the North-Eastern Railway put their black lattice girder bridges across
+the mouth of each valley. But now that familiarity with these bridges,
+which are of the same pattern across every wooded ravine up the
+coast-line to Redcar, has blunted my impressions, I can think of the
+picturesqueness of East Row without remembering the railway. It was in
+this glen, where Lord Normanby's lovely woods make a background for the
+pretty tiled cottages, the mill, and the old stone bridge, which make up
+East Row, that the Saxons chose a home for their god Thor. [Since this
+was written one or two new houses have been allowed to mar the
+simplicity of the valley.--G. H.] Here they built some rude form of
+temple, afterwards, it seems, converted into a hermitage. This was how
+the spot obtained the name Thordisa, a name it retained down to 1620,
+when the requirements of workmen from the newly-started alum-works at
+Sandsend led to building operations by the side of the stream. The
+cottages which arose became known afterwards as East Row.
+
+A very little way inland is the village of Dunsley, which may have been
+in existence in Roman times, for Ptolemy mentions Dunus Sinus as a bay
+frequently used by the Romans as a landing-place. The foundations of
+some ancient building can easily be traced in the rough grass at the
+village cross-roads, now overlooked by a new stone house. But whatever
+surprises Dunsley may have in store for those who choose to dig in the
+likely places, the hamlet need not keep one long, for on either hand
+there is a choice of breezy moorland or the astonishing beauties of
+Mulgrave Woods. Before I knew this part of Yorkshire, and had merely
+read of the woods as a sight to be visited from Whitby, I was prepared
+for something at least as hackneyed as Hayburn Wyke. I was prepared for
+direction-boards and artificial helps to the charms of certain aspects
+of the streams. I certainly never anticipated that I should one day sigh
+for a direction-board in this forest.
+
+It was on my second visit to the woods that I determined to find a
+particularly dramatic portion of one of the streams. My first ramble had
+been in summer. I had been with one who knew the paths well, but now it
+was late autumn and I was alone. I explored the paths for hours, and
+traversed long glades ablaze with red and gold. I peered down through
+the yellow leaves to the rushing streams below, where I could see the
+great moss-grown boulders choking the narrow channels. But this
+particular spot had gone. I was almost in despair, when two labourers by
+great luck happened to come along one of the tracks. With their help I
+found the place I was searching for, and the result of the time spent
+there is given in one of the illustrations to this chapter. Go where you
+will in Yorkshire, you will find no more fascinating woodland scenery
+than this. From the broken walls and towers of the old Norman castle the
+views over the ravines on either hand--for the castle stands on a lofty
+promontory in a sea of foliage--are entrancing; and after seeing the
+astoundingly brilliant colours with which autumn paints these trees,
+there is a tendency to find the ordinary woodland commonplace. The
+narrowest and deepest gorge is hundreds of feet deep in the shale. East
+Row Beck drops into this canyon in the form of a waterfall at the upper
+end, and then almost disappears among the enormous rocks strewn along
+its circumscribed course. The humid, hothouse atmosphere down here
+encourages the growth of many of the rarer mosses, which entirely cover
+all but the newly-fallen rocks.
+
+We can leave the woods by a path leading near Lord Normanby's modern
+castle, and come out on to the road close to Lythe Church, where a great
+view of sea and land is spread out towards the south. The long curving
+line of white marks the limits of the tide as far as the entrance to
+Whitby Harbour. The abbey stands out in its loneliness as of yore, and
+beyond it are the black-looking, precipitous cliffs ending at Saltwick
+Nab. Lythe Church, standing in its wind-swept graveyard full of
+blackened tombstones, need not keep us, for, although its
+much-modernized exterior is simple and ancient-looking, the interior is
+devoid of any interest. It is the same tale at nearly every village in
+this district, and to those who are able to grow enthusiastic in
+antiquarian matters some parts of the county are disappointing. In East
+Anglia and the southern counties even the smallest hamlets have often a
+good church, with a conspicuous tower or spire; but in how many villages
+in this riding do you find no church at all, as in the case of Staithes
+and Runswick? Many of the old churches of Yorkshire were in a state of
+great dilapidation at the beginning of last century, and a great effort
+having been initiated by the then Archbishop, a fund was instituted to
+help the various parishes to restore their buildings. It was a period
+when architecture was at a low ebb, and the desire to sweep away
+antiquity was certainly strong, for those churches not rebuilt from the
+ground were so hacked and renovated that their interest and
+picturesqueness has vanished. The churches at Pickering, Middleton,
+Lastingham, and Kirkdale must, however, be pointed out as priceless
+exceptions.
+
+The road drops down a tremendous hill into Sandsend, where they talk of
+going 'up t' bonk' to Lythe Church. A little chapel of ease in the
+village accommodates the old and delicate folk, but the youth and the
+generally able-bodied of Sandsend must climb the hill every Sunday. The
+beck forms an island in the village, and the old stone cottages, bright
+with new paint and neatly-trained creepers, stand in their gardens on
+either side of the valley in the most picturesque fashion.
+
+The walk along the rocky shore to Kettleness is dangerous unless the
+tide is carefully watched, and the road inland through Lythe village is
+not particularly interesting, so that one is tempted to use the railway,
+which cuts right through the intervening high ground by means of two
+tunnels. The first one is a mile long, and somewhere near the centre has
+a passage out to the cliffs, so that even if both ends of the tunnel
+collapsed there would be a way of escape. But this is small comfort when
+travelling from Kettleness, for the down gradient towards Sandsend is
+very steep, and in the darkness of the tunnel the train gets up a
+tremendous speed, bursting into the open just where a precipitous drop
+into the sea could be most easily accomplished.
+
+The station at Kettleness is on the top of the huge cliffs, and to reach
+the shore one must climb down a zigzag path. It is a broad and solid
+pathway until halfway down, where it assumes the character of a
+goat-track, being a mere treading down of the loose shale of which the
+enormous cliff is formed. The sliding down of the crumbling rock
+constantly carries away the path, but a little spade-work soon makes the
+track firm again. This portion of the cliff has something of a history,
+for one night in 1829 the inhabitants of many of the cottages originally
+forming the village of Kettleness were warned of impending danger by
+subterranean noises. Fearing a subsidence of the cliff, they betook
+themselves to a small schooner lying in the bay. This wise move had not
+long been accomplished, when a huge section of the ground occupied by
+the cottages slid down the great cliff and the next morning there was
+little to be seen but a sloping mound of lias shale at the foot of the
+precipice. The villagers recovered some of their property by digging,
+and some pieces of broken crockery from one of the cottages are still to
+be seen on the shore near the ferryman's hut, where the path joins
+the shore.
+
+This sandy beach, lapped by the blue waves of Runswick Bay, is one of
+the finest spots on the rocky coast-line of Yorkshire. A trickling
+waterfall drops perpendicularly down the blackish rocks from a
+considerable height, while above it are the towering cliffs of shale,
+perfectly bare in one direction, and clothed with grass and bracken in
+another. At the foot of the rocks a layer of jet appears a few inches
+above the sand.
+
+You look northwards across the sunlit sea to the rocky heights hiding
+Port Mulgrave and Staithes, and on the further side of the bay you see
+tiny Runswick's red roofs, one above the other, on the face of the
+cliff. Here it is always cool and pleasant in the hottest weather, and
+from the broad shadows cast by the precipices above one can revel in the
+sunny land and sea-scapes without that fishy odour so unavoidable in the
+villages. When the sun is beginning to climb down the sky in the
+direction of Hinderwell, and everything is bathed in a glorious golden
+light, the ferryman will row you across the bay to Runswick, but a
+scramble over the rocks on the beach will be repaid by a closer view of
+the now half-filled-up Hob Hole. The fisher-folk believed this cave to
+be the home of a kindly-disposed fairy or hob, who seems to have been
+one of the slow-dying inhabitants of the world of mythology implicitly
+believed in by the Saxons. And these beliefs died so hard in these
+lonely Yorkshire villages that until recent times a mother would carry
+her child suffering from whooping-cough along the beach to the mouth of
+the cave. There she would call in a loud voice, 'Hob-hole Hob! my
+bairn's gotten t'kink cough. Tak't off, tak't off.' One can see the
+child's parents gazing fearfully into the black depths of the cavern,
+penetrating the cliff for 70 feet, and finally turning back to the
+village in the full belief that the hob would stay the disease.
+
+The steep paths and flights of roughly-built steps that wind above and
+below the cottages are the only means of getting about in Runswick. The
+butcher's cart every Saturday penetrates into the centre of the village
+by the rough track which is all that is left of the good firm road from
+Hinderwell after it has climbed down the cliff. To this central
+position, close to the post-box, the householders come to buy their
+supply of meat for Sunday, having their purchases weighed on scales
+placed on the flap at the back of the cart. While the butcher is doing
+his thriving trade the postman arrives to collect letters from the
+pillar-box, Placing a small horn to his lips, he blows a blast to warn
+the villagers that the post is going, and, having waited for the last
+letter, climbs slowly up the steep pathway to Hinderwell.
+
+Halfway up to the top he pauses and looks over the fruit-trees and the
+tiles and chimney-pots below him, to the bright blue waters of the bay,
+with Kettleness beyond, now all pink and red in the golden light of late
+afternoon. This scene is more suggestive of the Mediterranean than
+Yorkshire, for the blueness of the sea seems almost unnatural, and the
+golden greens of the pretty little gardens among the houses seem perhaps
+a trifle theatrical; but the fisher-folk play their parts too well, and
+there is nothing make-believe about the delicious bread-and-butter and
+the newly-baked cakes which accompany the tea awaiting us in a
+spotlessly clean cottage close by.
+
+The same form of disaster which destroyed Kettleness village caused the
+complete ruin of Runswick in 1666, for one night, when some of the
+fisher-folk were holding a wake over a corpse, they had unmistakable
+warnings of an approaching landslip. The alarm was given, and the
+villagers, hurriedly leaving their cottages, saw the whole place slide
+downwards and become a mass of ruins. No lives were lost, but, as only
+one house remained standing, the poor fishermen were only saved from
+destitution by the sums of money collected for their relief.
+
+Architecturally speaking, Hinderwell is a depressing village, and there
+is little to remember about the place except an extraordinary block of
+two or three shops, suitable only for a business street in a big city,
+but dumped right into the middle of this village of low cottages. The
+church is modern enough to be uninteresting, but in the graveyard St.
+Hilda's Well, from which the name Hinderwell is a corruption, may
+still be seen.
+
+In 1603 there was a sudden and terrible outbreak of plague in the
+village. It only lasted from September 1 to November 10, but in that
+short time forty-nine people died. It seems that the infection was
+brought by some men from a 'Turkey ship' that had been stranded on the
+coast, but, strangely enough, the disease does not appear to have been
+carried into the other villages in the neighbourhood.
+
+Scarcely two miles from Hinderwell is the fishing-hamlet of Staithes,
+wedged into the side of a deep and exceedingly picturesque beck.
+Here--and it is the same at Runswick--one is obliged to walk warily
+during the painter's season, for fear of either obstructing the view of
+the man behind the easel you have just passed, or out of regard for the
+feelings of some girls just in front. There are often no more chances of
+standing still in Staithes than may be enjoyed on a popular golf-links
+on a fine Saturday afternoon. These folk at Staithes do not disturb one
+with cries of 'Fore!' but with that blank Chinaman's stare which comes
+to anyone who paints in public.
+
+The average artist is a being who is quite unable to recognise
+architectural merit. He sees everything to please him if the background
+of his group be sufficiently tumble-down and derelict. If this be
+incorrect, how could such swarms of artistic folk paint and actually
+lodge in Staithes? The steep road leading past the station drops down
+into the village, giving a glimpse of the beck crossed by its ramshackle
+wooden foot-bridge--the view one has been prepared for by guide-books
+and picture postcards. Lower down you enter the village street. Here the
+smell of fish comes out to greet you, and one would forgive the place
+this overflowing welcome if one were not so shocked at the dismal aspect
+of the houses on either side of the way. Many are of comparatively
+recent origin, others are quite new, and a few--a very few--are old; but
+none have any architectural pretensions or any claims to
+picturesqueness, and only a few have the neat and respectable look one
+is accustomed to expect after seeing Robin Hood's Bay.
+
+Staithes had filled me with so much pleasant expectancy that my first
+walk down this street of dirty, ugly houses had brought me into a
+querulous frame of mind, and I wondered irritably why the women should
+all wear lilac-coloured bonnets, when a choice of colour is not
+difficult as far as calico is concerned. Those women who were in
+mourning had dyed theirs black, and these assorted well with the colour
+of the stone of many of the houses.
+
+I hurried down on to the little fish-wharf--a wooden structure facing
+the sea--hoping to find something more cheering in the view of the
+little bay, with its bold cliffs, and the busy scene where the cobles
+were drawn up on the shingle. Here my spirits revived, and I began to
+find excuses for the painters. The little wharf, in a bad state of
+repair, like most things in the place, was occupied by groups of
+stalwart fisher-folk, men and women.
+
+The men were for the most part watching their women-folk at work. They
+were also to an astonishing extent mere spectators in the arduous work
+of hauling the cobles one by one on to the steep bank of shingle. A
+tackle hooked to one of the baulks of timber forming the staith was
+being hauled at by five women and two men! Two others were in a listless
+fashion leaning their shoulders against the boat itself. With the last
+'Heave-ho!' at the shortened tackle the women laid hold of the nets, and
+with casual male assistance laid them out on the shingle, removed any
+fragments of fish, and generally prepared them for stowing in the
+boat again.
+
+It is evidently an accepted state of things at Staithes that the work of
+putting out to sea and the actual catching of the fish is sufficient for
+the men-folk, for the feminine population do their arduous tasks with a
+methodical matter-of-factness which surprises only the stranger. I was
+particularly struck on one occasion with the sight of a good-looking and
+very neatly dressed young fishwife who was engaged in that very
+necessary but exceedingly unpleasant task of cutting open fish and
+removing the perishable portions. With unerring precision the sharp
+knife was plunged into each cod or haddock, and the fish was in its
+marketable condition in shorter time than one can write. A little boy
+plunged them into a pail of ruddy-looking water, and from thence into
+the regulation fish box or basket that finds its way to the Metropolis.
+
+A change has come over the inhabitants of Staithes since 1846, when Mr.
+Ord describes the fishermen as 'exceedingly civil and courteous to
+strangers, and altogether free from that low, grasping knavery peculiar
+to the larger class of fishing-towns.' Without wishing to be
+unreasonably hard on Staithes, I am inclined to believe that this
+character is infinitely better than these folk deserve, and even when
+Mr. Ord wrote of the place I have reason to doubt the civility shown by
+them to strangers. It is, according to some who have known Staithes for
+a long while, less than fifty years ago that the fisher-folk were
+hostile to a stranger on very small provocation, and only the entirely
+inoffensive could expect to sojourn in the village without being a
+target for stones. The incursion of the artistic hordes has been a great
+factor in the demoralization of the village, for who would not be
+mercenary when besought at all hours of the day to stand before a canvas
+or a camera? Thus, the harmless stranger who strays on to the staith
+with a camera is obliged to pay for 'an afternoon's 'baccy' if he want
+an opportunity to obtain more than a snapshot of a picturesque group. He
+may try to capture a lonely old fisherman by asking if he would mind
+standing still for 'just one second,' but the old fellow will move away
+instantly unless his demand for payment be readily complied with.
+
+No doubt many of the superstitions of Staithes people have languished or
+died out in recent years, and among these may be included a particularly
+primitive custom when the catches of fish had been unusually small. Bad
+luck of this sort could only be the work of some evil influence, and to
+break the spell a sheep's heart had to be procured, into which many pins
+were stuck. The heart was then burnt in a bonfire on the beach, in the
+presence of the fishermen, who danced round the flames.
+
+In happy contrast to these heathenish practices was the resolution
+entered into and signed by the fishermen of Staithes, in August, 1835,
+binding themselves 'on no account whatever' to follow their calling on
+Sundays, 'nor to go out with our boats or cobbles to sea, either on the
+Saturday or Sunday evenings.' They also agreed to forfeit ten shillings
+for every offence against the resolution, and the fund accumulated in
+this way, and by other means, was administered for the benefit of aged
+couples and widows and orphans.
+
+The men of Staithes are known up and down the east coast of Great
+Britain as some of the very finest types of fishermen. Their cobles,
+which vary in size and colour, are uniform in design and the brilliance
+of their paint. Brick red, emerald green, pungent blue and white, are
+the most favoured colours, but orange, pink, yellow, and many others,
+are to be seen.
+
+Not only are fish of the present age in evidence at Staithes, but
+nowhere along this coast can one find better examples of those of the
+Jurassic period. When the tide has exposed the scaur which runs out from
+Colburn Nab, at the mouth of the beck, a one can examine masses of
+recently fallen rocks, the new faces of which are almost invariably
+covered with ammonites or clusters of fossil bivalves. The only
+hindrance to a close examination of these new falls from the cliffs is
+the serious danger of another fall occurring at the same spot. The
+fisher-folk are very kind in pointing out this peril to ardent
+geologists and those of a less scientific outlook, who merely enjoy the
+exercise of scrambling over great masses of rock. After having been
+warned that most of the face of the cliff above is 'qualified' to come
+down at any moment, there is a strong inclination to betake one's self
+to a safe distance, where, unfortunately, the wear and tear of the waves
+have in most cases so battered the traces of early marine life that
+there is little to attack with the hammer to compare with what can be
+seen in the new falls. The scaur also presents an interesting feature in
+its round ironstone nodules, half embedded in the smooth rocky floor.
+
+Looking northwards there is a grand piece of coast scenery. The masses
+of Boulby Cliffs, rising 660 feet from the sea, are the highest on the
+Yorkshire coast. The waves break all round the rocky scaur, and fill the
+air with their thunder, while the strong wind blows the spray into
+beards which stream backwards from the incoming crests.
+
+The upper course of Staithes Beck consists of two streams, flowing
+through deep, richly-wooded ravines. They follow parallel courses very
+close to one another for three or four miles, but their sources extend
+from Lealholm Moor to Wapley Moor. Kilton Beck runs through another
+lovely valley densely clothed in trees, and full of the richest woodland
+scenery. It becomes more open in the neighbourhood of Loftus, and from
+thence to the sea at Skinningrove the valley is green and open to the
+heavens. Loftus is on the borders of the Cleveland mining district, and
+it is for this reason that the town has grown to a considerable size.
+But although the miners' new cottages are unpicturesque, and the church
+only dates from 1811, the situation is pretty, owing to the profusion of
+trees among the houses. Skinningrove has railway-sidings and
+branch-lines running down to it, and on the hill above the cottages
+stands a cluster of blast-furnaces. In daylight they are merely ugly,
+but at night, with tongues of flame, they speak of the potency of
+labour. I can still see that strange silhouette of steel cylinders and
+connecting girders against a blue-black sky, with silent masses of flame
+leaping into the heavens.
+
+It was long before iron-ore was smelted here, before even the old
+alum-works had been started, that Skinningrove attained to some sort of
+fame through a wonderful visit, as strange as any of those recounted by
+Mr. Wells. It was in the year 1535--for the event is most carefully
+recorded in a manuscript of the period--that some fishermen of
+Skinningrove caught a Sea Man. This was such an astounding fact to
+record that the writer of the old manuscript explains that 'old men that
+would be loath to have their credyt crackt by a tale of a stale date,
+report confidently that ... a _sea-man_ was taken by the fishers.' They
+took him up to an old disused house, and kept him there for many weeks,
+feeding him on raw fish, because he persistently refused the other sorts
+of food offered him. To the people who flocked from far and near to
+visit him he was very courteous, and he seems to have been particularly
+pleased with any 'fayre maydes' who visited him, for he would gaze at
+them with a very earnest countenance, 'as if his phlegmaticke breaste
+had been touched with a sparke of love.' The Sea Man was so well behaved
+that the fisher-folk began to feel sufficiently sure of his desire to
+live with them to cease to keep watch on his movements. 'One day,' we
+are told, 'he prively stoale out of Doores, and ere he coulde be
+overtaken recovered the sea, whereinto he plunged himself; yet as one
+that woulde not unmanerly depart without taking of his leave, from the
+mydle upwardes he raysed his shoulders often above the waves, and
+makinge signes of acknowledgeing his good enterteinment to such as
+beheld him on the shore, as they interpreted yt;--after a pretty while
+he dived downe and appeared no more.'
+
+This strangely detailed account says that instead of a voice the Sea Man
+'skreaked,' but this is of small interest compared to whether he had a
+tail or any fish-like attributes. The fact that he escaped would suggest
+the presence of legs, but the historian is silent on this
+all-important matter.
+
+The lofty coast-line we have followed all the way from Sandsend
+terminates abruptly at Huntcliff Nab, the great promontory which is
+familiar to visitors to Saltburn. Low alluvial cliffs take the place of
+the rocky precipices, and the coast becomes flatter and flatter as you
+approach Redcar and the marshy country at the mouth of the Tees. The
+original Saltburn, consisting of a row of quaint fishermen's cottages,
+still stands entirely alone, facing the sea on the Huntcliff side of the
+beck, and from the wide, smooth sands there is little of modern Saltburn
+to be seen besides the pier. For the rectangular streets and blocks of
+houses have been wisely placed some distance from the edge of the grassy
+cliffs, leaving the sea-front quite unspoiled. It would, perhaps, be
+well to own that I have never seen Saltburn during the summer season,
+and for this reason I may think better of the resort than if my visit
+had been in midsummer. It was during October. The sun was shining
+brightly, and a strong wind was blowing off the land. The wide,
+new-looking streets were spotlessly clean, and in most of them there was
+no sign of life at all. It was the same on the broad sweep of sands, for
+when I commenced a drawing on the cliffs the only living creatures I
+could see were two small dogs. About noon a girls' school was let loose
+upon the sands, and for half an hour a furious game of hockey was
+fought. Then I was left alone again, with the great expanse of sea, the
+yellow margin of sand, and the reddish-brown cliffs, all beneath the
+wind-swept sky.
+
+The elaborately-laid-out gardens on the steep banks of Skelton Beck are
+the pride and joy of Saltburn, for they offer a pleasant contrast to the
+bare slopes on the Huntcliff side and the flat country towards
+Kirkleatham. But in this seemingly harmless retreat there used to be
+heard horrible groanings, and I have no evidence to satisfy me that they
+have altogether ceased. For in this matter-of-fact age such a story
+would not be listened to, and thus those who hear the sounds may be
+afraid to speak of them. The groanings were heard, they say, 'when all
+wyndes are whiste and the sea restes unmoved as a standing poole.' At
+times they were so loud as to be heard at least six miles inland, and
+the fishermen feared to put out to sea, believing that the ocean was 'as
+a greedy Beaste raginge for Hunger, desyers to be satisfyed with men's
+carcases.' There were also at that time certain rocks towards Huntcliff
+Nab, left bare at low-tide, where 'Seales in greate Heardes like Swine'
+were to be seen basking in the sun. 'For their better scuritye,' says
+the old writer, 'they put in use a kind of military discipline, warily
+preparing against a soddaine surprize, for on the outermost Rocke one
+great Seale or more keepes sentinell, which upon the first inklinge of
+any danger, giveth the Alarme to the rest by throweing of Stones, or
+making a noise in the water, when he tumbles down from the Rocke, the
+rest immediately doe the like, insomuch that yt is very hard to overtake
+them by cunning.'
+
+In 1842 Redcar was a mere village, though more apparent on the map than
+Saltburn; but, like its neighbour, it has grown into a great
+watering-place, having developed two piers, a long esplanade other
+features, which I am glad to leave to those for whom they were made, and
+betake myself to the more romantic spots so plentiful in this
+broad county.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE COAST FROM WHITBY TO SCARBOROUGH
+
+
+Although it is only six miles as the crow flies from Whitby to Robin
+Hood's Bay, the exertion required to walk there along the top of the
+cliffs is equal to quite double that distance, for there are so many
+gullies to be climbed into and crawled out of that the measured distance
+is considerably increased. It is well to remember this, for otherwise
+the scenery of the last mile or two may not seem as fine as the
+first stages.
+
+As soon as the abbey and the jet-sellers are left behind, you pass a
+farm, and come out on a great expanse of close-growing smooth turf,
+where the whole world seems to be made up of grass and sky. The footpath
+goes close to the edge of the cliff; in some places it has gone too
+close, and has disappeared altogether. But these diversions can be
+avoided without spoiling the magnificent glimpses of the rock-strewn
+beach nearly 200 feet below. From above Saltwick Bay there is a grand
+view across the level grass to Whitby Abbey, standing out alone on the
+green horizon. Down below, Saltwick Nab runs out a bare black arm into
+the sea, which even in the calmest weather angrily foams along the
+windward side. Beyond the sturdy lighthouse that shows itself a dazzling
+white against the hot blue of the heavens commence the innumerable
+gullies. Each one has its trickling stream, and bushes and low trees
+grow to the limits of the shelter afforded by the ravines; but in the
+open there is nothing higher than the waving corn or the stone walls
+dividing the pastures--a silent testimony to the power of the north-east
+wind. The village of Hawsker, with its massive though modern church, can
+be seen across the fields towards the west, but it does not offer
+sufficient attractions to divert you from the cliffs, unless you have a
+desire to see in one or two of the fields, gateways and rubbing-posts
+formed of whales' jaws, suggestive of the days when Whitby carried on a
+thriving trade with the great cetaceans. To enjoy this magnificent coast
+scenery, there must be plenty of time to linger in those places where it
+seems impossible not to fling yourself on the long brown grass and
+listen to the droning of insects and the sound of the waves down below.
+At certain times of the day the most striking colours are seen among the
+sunlit rocks, and the boldness of the outlines of overhanging strata and
+great projecting shoulders are a continual surprise.
+
+After rounding the North Cheek, the whole of Robin Hood's Bay is
+suddenly laid before you. I well remember my first view of the wide
+sweep of sea, which lay like a blue carpet edged with white, and the
+high escarpments of rock that were in deep purple shade, except where
+the afternoon sun turned them into the brightest greens and umbers.
+Three miles away, but seemingly very much closer, was the bold headland
+of the Peak, and more inland was Stoupe Brow, with Robin Hood's Butts on
+the hill-top. The fable connected with the outlaw is scarcely worth
+repeating, but on the site of these butts urns have been dug up, and are
+now to be found in Scarborough Museum. The Bay Town is hidden away in a
+most astonishing fashion, for, until you have almost reached the two
+bastions which guard the way up from the beach, there is nothing to be
+seen of the charming old place. If you approach by the road past the
+railway-station it is the same, for only garishly new hotels and villas
+are to be seen on the high ground, and not a vestige of the fishing-town
+can be discovered. But the road to the bay at last begins to drop down
+very steeply, and the first old roofs appear. The path at the side of
+the road develops into a very long series of steps, and in a few minutes
+the narrow street, flanked by very tall houses, has swallowed you up.
+
+Everything is very clean and orderly, and, although most of the houses
+are very old, they are generally in a good state of repair, exhibiting
+in every case the seaman's love of fresh paint. Thus, the dark and worn
+stone walls have bright eyes in their newly-painted doors and windows.
+Over their doorsteps the fishermen's wives are quite fastidious, and you
+seldom see a mark on the ochre-coloured hearthstone with which the women
+love to brighten the worn stones. Even the scrapers are sleek with
+blacklead, and it is not easy to find a window without spotlessly clean
+curtains. The little coastguard station by the opening on to the shore
+has difficulty in showing itself superior to the rest in these essential
+matters of smartness. However, the coastguards glory in a little stone
+pathway protected by a low wall in front of their building. On this
+narrow quarter-deck the men love to walk to and fro, just as though they
+were afloat and were limited to this space for exercise. At high-tide
+the sea comes halfway up the steep opening between the coastguards'
+quarters and the inn which is built on another bastion, and in rough
+weather the waves break hungrily on to the strong stone walls, for the
+bay is entirely open to the full force of gales from the east or
+north-east. All the way from Scarborough to Whitby the coast offers no
+shelter of any sort in heavy weather, and many vessels have been lost on
+the rocks. On one occasion a small sailing-ship was driven right into
+this bay at high-tide, and the bowsprit smashed into a window of the
+little hotel that occupied the place of the present one.
+
+With angry seas periodically demolishing the outermost houses, it seems
+almost unaccountable that the little town should have persisted in
+clinging so tenaciously to the high-water mark; but there were probably
+two paramount reasons for this. The deep gully was to a great extent
+protected from the force of the winds, and, as it was soon quite brimful
+of houses, every inch of space was valuable; then, smuggling was freely
+practised along the coast, and the more the houses were wedged together,
+the more opportunities for secret hiding-places would be afforded. The
+whole town has a consciously guilty look in its evident desire to
+conceal itself; and the steep narrow streets, the curious passages where
+it is scarcely possible for two people to pass, and the little courts
+which look like culs-de-sac but have a hidden flight of steps leading
+down to another passage, seem to be purposely intricate and confusing.
+For I can imagine a revenue cutter chasing a boat into Robin Hood's Bay,
+and I can see the smugglers hastily landing on the beach and making for
+the town, followed by the Excise officers, who are as unable to trace
+the men as though they had been chasing rabbits in a warren. The stream
+that made this retreat for the fishing-town is now scarcely more than a
+drain when it reaches the houses, for, after passing along the foot of a
+great perpendicular mass of shale, it rushes into a tunnel, and only
+appears again on the shore.
+
+It is strange that there should be so little information as to the
+associations of Robin Hood with this fishing-village. The stories of his
+shooting an arrow to determine where he should make his headquarters
+sound improbable, although his keeping one or two small ships in the bay
+ready for making his escape if suddenly attacked seems a rational
+precaution, and if only there were a little more evidence outside the
+local traditions to go upon, it would be pleasant to let the imagination
+play upon the wild life led by the outlawed Earl of Huntingdon in this
+then inaccessible coast region.
+
+The railway southwards takes a curve inland, and, after winding in and
+out to make the best of the contour of the hills, the train finally
+steams very heavily and slowly into Ravenscar Station, right over the
+Peak and 630 feet above the sea. On the way you get glimpses of the
+moors inland, and grand views over the curving bay. There is a station
+named Fyling Hall, after Sir Hugh Cholmley's old house, halfway to
+Ravenscar. It was about the year 1625 that Sir Hugh to a great extent
+rebuilt Fyling Hall, which is still standing; but he came in with his
+family before the plaster on the walls was thoroughly dry, and the
+household seems to have suffered in health on this account. Shortly
+afterwards Sir Hugh lost his eldest son Richard, who was only five years
+old, and this great trouble decided him to move to Whitby; for in 1629
+he sold Fyling Hall to Sir John Hotham, and took up his residence in the
+Abbey House at Whitby.
+
+Raven Hall, the large house conspicuously perched on the heights above
+the Peak, is now converted into an hotel. There is a wonderful view from
+the castellated terraces, which in the distance suggest the remains of
+some ruined fortress. At the present time there is nothing to be seen
+older than the house whose foundations were dug in 1774. While the
+building operations were in progress, however, a Roman stone, now in
+Whitby Museum, was unearthed. The inscription has been translated:
+'Justinian, governor of the province, and Vindician, general of the
+forces of Upper Britain, for the second time, with the younger
+provincial soldiers built this fort, the manager of public works giving
+his assistance.' There is therefore ample evidence for believing that
+this commanding height was used by the Romans as a military post,
+although subsequently there were no further attempts to fortify the
+place, Scarborough, so much more easily defensible, being chosen
+instead. A rather pathetic attempt to foster the establishment of a
+watering-place has, however, been lately put on foot, but beyond some
+elaborately prepared roads and two or three isolated blocks of houses,
+there is fortunately little response to this artificial cultivation of a
+summer resort on the bare hill-top.
+
+Following this lofty coast southwards, you reach Hayburn Wyke, where a
+stream drops perpendicularly over some square masses of rock. After very
+heavy rains the waterfall attains quite a respectable size, but even
+under such favourable conditions the popularity of the place to a great
+extent spoils what might otherwise be a pleasant surprise to the
+rambler. The woodland paths leading down to the cove from the hotel by
+the station are exceedingly pretty, and in the summer it is not easy to
+find your way, despite the direction-boards nailed to trees here and
+there. But there are many wooded and mossy-pathed ravines equally
+pretty, where no charge is made for admittance, and where you can be
+away from your fellow-mortals and the silver paper they throw away from
+the chocolate they eat.
+
+There is a small stone circle not far from Hayburn Wyke Station, to be
+found without much trouble, and those who are interested in Early Man
+will scarcely find a neighbourhood in this country more thickly
+honeycombed with tumuli and ancient earthworks. There is no particularly
+plain pathway through the fields to the valley where this stone circle
+can be seen, but it can easily be found after a careful study of the
+large scale Ordnance map which they will show you at the hotel; and if
+there be any difficulty in locating the exact position of the stones,
+the people at the neighbouring farm are exceedingly kind in giving
+directions. There are about fifteen monoliths making up the circle, and
+they are all lying flat on the ground, so that in the summer they are
+very much overgrown with rank grass and low bushes. This was probably
+the burial-place of some prehistoric chief, but no mound remains.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+SCARBOROUGH
+
+
+Dazzling sunshine, a furious wind, flapping and screaming gulls, crowds
+of fishing-boats, and innumerable people jostling one another on the
+seafront, made up the chief features of my first view of Scarborough. By
+degrees I discovered that behind the gulls and the brown sails were old
+houses, their roofs dimly red through the transparent haze, and above
+them appeared a great green cliff, with its uneven outline defined by
+the curtain walls and towers of the castle which had made Scarborough a
+place of importance in the Civil War and in earlier times.
+
+The wide-curving bay was filled with huge breaking waves which looked
+capable of destroying everything within their reach, but they seemed
+harmless enough when I looked a little further out, where eight or ten
+gray warships were riding at their anchors, apparently motionless.
+
+From the outer arm of the harbour, where the seas were angrily
+attempting to dislodge the top row of stones, I could make out the great
+mass of gray buildings stretching right to the extremity of the bay.
+
+I tried to pick out individual buildings from this city-like
+watering-place, but, beyond discovering the position of the Spa and one
+or two of the mightier hotels, I could see very little, and instead fell
+to wondering how many landladies and how many foreign waiters the long
+lines of gray roofs represented. This raised so many unpleasant
+recollections of the various types I had encountered that I determined
+to go no nearer to modern Scarborough than the pier-head upon which I
+stood. A specially big wave, however, soon drove me from this position
+to a drier if more crowded spot, and, reconsidering my objections, I
+determined to see something of the innumerable gray streets which make
+up the fashionable watering-place. The terraced gardens on the steep
+cliffs along the sea-front were most elaborately well kept, but a more
+striking feature of Scarborough is the magnificence of so many of the
+shops. They suggest a city rather than a seaside town, and give you an
+idea of the magnitude of the permanent population of the place as well
+as the flood of summer and winter visitors. The origin of Scarborough's
+popularity was undoubtedly due to the chalybeate waters of the Spa,
+discovered in 1620, almost at the same time as those of Tunbridge Wells
+and Epsom.
+
+The unmistakable signs of antiquity in the narrow streets adjoining the
+harbour irresistibly remind one of the days when sea-bathing had still
+to be popularized, when the efficacy of Scarborough's medicinal spring
+had not been discovered, of the days when the place bore as little
+resemblance to its present size or appearance as the fishing-town at
+Robin Hood's Bay.
+
+We do not know that Piers Gaveston, Sir Hugh Cholmley, and other
+notabilities who have left their mark on the pages of Scarborough's
+history, might not, were they with us to-day, welcome the pierrot, the
+switchback, the restaurant, and other means by which pleasure-loving
+visitors wile away their hardly-earned holidays; but for my part the
+story of Scarborough's Mayor who was tossed in a blanket is far more
+entertaining than the songs of nigger minstrels or any of the commercial
+attempts to amuse.
+
+This strangely improper procedure with one who held the highest office
+in the municipality took place in the reign of James II., and the King's
+leanings towards Popery were the cause of all the trouble.
+
+On April 27, 1688, a declaration for liberty of conscience was
+published, and by royal command the said declaration was to be read in
+every Protestant church in the land. Mr. Thomas Aislabie, the Mayor of
+Scarborough, duly received a copy of the document, and, having handed it
+to the clergyman, Mr. Noel Boteler, ordered him to read it in church on
+the following Sunday morning. There seems little doubt that the worthy
+Mr. Boteler at once recognised a wily move on the part of the King, who
+under the cover of general tolerance would foster the growth of the
+Roman religion until such time as the Catholics had attained sufficient
+power to suppress Protestantism. Mr. Mayor was therefore informed that
+the declaration would not be read. On Sunday morning (August 11) when
+the omission had been made, the Mayor left his pew, and, stick in hand,
+walked up the aisle, seized the minister, and caned him as he stood at
+his reading-desk. Scenes of such a nature did not occur every day even
+in 1688, and the storm of indignation and excitement among the members
+of the congregation did not subside so quickly as it had risen.
+
+The cause of the poor minister was championed in particular by a certain
+Captain Ouseley, and the discussion of the matter on the bowling-green
+on the following day led to the suggestion that the Mayor should be sent
+for to explain his conduct. As he took no notice of a courteous message
+requesting his attendance, the Captain repeated the summons accompanied
+by a file of musketeers. In the meantime many suggestions for dealing
+with Mr. Aislabie in a fitting manner were doubtless made by the
+Captain's brother officers, and, further, some settled course of action
+seems to have been agreed upon, for we do not hear of any hesitation on
+the part of the Captain on the arrival of the Mayor, whose rage must by
+this time have been bordering upon apoplexy. A strong blanket was ready,
+and Captains Carvil, Fitzherbert, Hanmer, and Rodney, led by Captain
+Ouseley and assisted by as many others as could find room, seizing the
+sides, in a very few moments Mr. Mayor was revolving and bumping, rising
+and falling, as though he were no weight at all.
+
+This public degradation was too much to be borne without substantial
+redress. He therefore set out at once for London to obtain satisfaction
+from his Sovereign. But Ouseley was wise enough to look after his own
+interests in that quarter himself, and in two letters we see the upshot
+of the matter.
+
+
+  'LONDON,
+
+  'September 22, 1688.
+
+  '....Captain Ouseley is said to be come to
+   town to give reasons for tossing the mayor of
+   Scarborough in a blanket. As part of his plea he
+   has brought with him a collection of articles against
+   the said mayor, and the attestations of many gentlemen
+   of note.'
+
+
+  'LONDON,
+
+  'September 29, 1688.
+
+  'The mayor of Scarborough and Captain Ouseley,
+   who tossed the other in a blanket, were heard last
+   night before the council: the Captain pleaded his
+   majesty's gracious pardon (which is in the press)
+   and so both were dismissed.'
+
+
+Aislabie was the last of the only five Mayors the town had then known,
+and the fact that the office had only been instituted in 1684 seems to
+show that what reverence had gathered round the person of the chief
+magistrate was not sufficient to stand in the face of such outrageous
+conduct as the public caning of the minister. The townsfolk decided that
+they had had enough of Mayors, for on November 16 in the same autumn
+Scarborough was once more placed under the control of two Bailiffs, as
+had been the case previous to 1684.
+
+If the castle does not show many interesting buildings beyond the keep
+and the long line of walls and drum-towers, there is so much concerning
+it that is of great human interest that I should scarcely feel able to
+grumble if there were still fewer remains. Behind the ancient houses in
+Quay Street rises the steep, grassy cliff, up which one must climb by
+various rough pathways to the fortified summit. On the side facing the
+mainland, a hollow, known as the Dyke, is bridged by a tall and narrow
+archway, in place of the drawbridge of the seventeenth century and
+earlier times. On the same side is a massive gateway, looking across an
+open space to St. Mary's Church, which suffered so severely during the
+sieges of the castle. The maimed church--for the chancel has never been
+rebuilt--looks across the Dyke to the shattered keep, and so apparent
+are the results of the cannonading between them that no one requires to
+be told that the Parliamentary forces mounted their ordnance in the
+chancel and tower of the church, and it is equally apparent that the
+Royalists returned the fire hotly.
+
+The great siege lasted for nearly a year, and although his garrison was
+small, and there was practically no hope of relief, Sir Hugh Cholmley
+seems to have kept a stout heart up to the end. With him throughout this
+long period of privation and suffering was his beautiful and courageous
+wife, whose comparatively early death, at the age of fifty-four, must to
+some extent be attributed to the strain and fatigue borne during these
+months of warfare. Sir Hugh seems to have almost worshipped his wife,
+for in his memoirs he is never weary of describing her perfections.
+
+'She was of the middle stature of women,' he writes, 'and well shaped,
+yet in that not so singular as in the beauty of her face, which was but
+of a little model, and yet proportionable to her body; her eyes black
+and full of loveliness and sweetness, her eyebrows small and even, as if
+drawn with a pencil, a very little, pretty, well-shaped mouth, which
+sometimes (especially when in a muse or study) she would draw up into an
+incredible little compass; her hair a sad chestnut; her complexion
+brown, but clear, with a fresh colour in her cheeks, a loveliness in her
+looks inexpressible; and by her whole composure was so beautiful a sweet
+creature at her marriage as not many did parallel, few exceed her in the
+nation; yet the inward endowments and perfections of her mind did exceed
+those outward of her body, being a most pious virtuous person, of great
+integrity and discerning judgment in most things.'
+
+Her husband speaks of her 'sweet good-nature,' and of how she was always
+ready to be touched with other people's wants before her own. That such
+nobleness of character should shine out brilliantly during the siege was
+inevitable, and Sir Hugh tells us that, though she was of a timorous
+nature, she bore herself during great danger with 'a courage above her
+sex.' On one occasion Sir John Meldrum, the Parliamentary commander,
+sent proposals to Sir Hugh Cholmley, which he accompanied with savage
+threats, that if his terms were not immediately accepted he would make a
+general assault on the castle that night, and in the event of one drop
+of his men's blood being shed he would give orders for a general
+massacre of the garrison, sparing neither man nor woman.
+
+To a man whose devotion to his beautiful wife was so great, a threat of
+this nature must have been a severe shock to his determination to hold
+out. But from his own writings we are able to picture for ourselves Sir
+Hugh's anxious and troubled face lighting up on the approach of the
+cause of his chief concern. Lady Cholmley, without any sign of the
+inward misgivings or dejection which, with her gentle and shrinking
+nature, must have been a great struggle, came to her husband, and
+implored him to on no account let her peril influence his decision to
+the detriment of his own honour or the King's affairs.
+
+Sir John Meldrum's proposals having been rejected, the garrison prepared
+itself for the furious attack commenced on May 11.
+
+The assault was well planned, for while the Governor's attention was
+turned towards the gateway leading to the castle entrance, another
+attack was made at the southern end of the wall towards the sea, where
+until the year 1730 Charles's Tower stood. The bloodshed at this point
+was greater than at the gateway. At the head of a chosen division of
+troops, Sir John Meldrum climbed the almost precipitous ascent with
+wonderful courage, only to meet with such spirited resistance on the
+part of the besieged that, when the attack was abandoned, it was
+discovered that Meldrum had received a dangerous wound penetrating to
+his thigh, and that several of his officers and men had been killed.
+Meanwhile, at the gateway, the first success of the assailants had been
+checked at the foot of the Grand Tower or Keep, for at that point the
+rush of drab-coated and helmeted men was received by such a shower of
+stones and missiles that many stumbled and were crushed on the steep
+pathway. Not even Cromwell's men could continue to face such a
+reception, and before very long the Governor could embrace his wife in
+the knowledge that the great attack had failed.
+
+In between such scenes as these, when the air was filled with the shouts
+and yells of attackers and besieged, when the crack of the muskets and
+the intermittent reports of the cannon almost deafened her, Lady
+Cholmley was assiduously attending to the wounded and the many cases of
+scurvy, which was rampant among the garrison. One of her maids who
+shared these labours crept out of the castle one night with a view to
+reaching the town and escaping further drudgery and privations; but a
+Roundhead sentry discovered her and sent her back to the castle,
+thinking that she was a spy. When the great keep was partially
+destroyed, Lady Cholmley was forced 'to lie in a little cabbin on the
+ground several months together, when she took a defluction of rhume upon
+one of her eyes, which troubled her ever after, and got also a touch of
+the scurvy then rife in the castle, and of which it is thought she was
+not well after.' Who can wonder that Sir Hugh appreciated the courage of
+this noble lady, and I marvel still more at her fortitude when I read of
+the frailties her husband mentions so gently, fearing, no doubt, that
+without a few shadows no one would accept his picture as genuine. 'If
+she had taken impression of anything, it was hard to remove it with
+reason or argument, till she had considered of it herself; neither could
+she well endure adversity or crosses, though it pleased the Lord to
+exercise her with them, by my many troubles and the calamity of the
+times. She would be much troubled at evils which could neither be
+prevented nor remedied, and sometimes discontented without any great
+cause, especially in her disposition of health; for, being of a tender
+constitution, and spun of a fine thread, every disaster took impression
+on her body and mind, and would make her both sick and often inclinable
+to be melancholy, especially in my absence.'
+
+At last, on July 22, 1645--his forty-fifth birthday--Sir Hugh was forced
+to come to an agreement with the enemy, by which he honourably
+surrendered the castle three days later. It was a sad procession that
+wound its way down the steep pathway, littered with the debris of broken
+masonry: for many of Sir Hugh's officers and soldiers were in such a
+weak condition that they had to be carried out in sheets or helped along
+between two men, and the Parliamentary officer adds, rather tersely,
+that 'the rest were not very fit to march.' The scurvy had depleted the
+ranks of the defenders to such an extent that the women in the castle,
+despite the presence of Lady Cholmley, threatened to stone the Governor
+unless he capitulated.
+
+The reduction of Scarborough Castle was considered a profound success to
+the side of the Parliament, 'The Moderate Intelligencer' of July 23,
+1645, announcing the fact with great satisfaction, 'we heare likewise
+that _Scarborough_ is also yeelded into our hands, Sir Hugh hath none
+other conditions for himself, but with his wife and children passe
+beyond seas. This is excellent good newes, and is a very terrible blow
+to the enemy.'
+
+Three years later the castle was again besieged by the Parliamentary
+forces, for Colonel Matthew Boynton, the Governor, had declared for the
+King. The garrison held out from August to December, when terms were
+made with Colonel Hugh Bethell, by which the Governor, officers,
+gentlemen, and soldiers, marched out with 'their colours flying, drums
+beating, musquets loaden, bandeleers filled, matches lighted, and bullet
+in mouth, to a close called Scarborough Common,' where they laid down
+their arms.
+
+Before I leave Scarborough I must go back to early times, in order that
+the antiquity of the place may not be slighted owing to the omission of
+any reference to the town in the Domesday Book. Tosti, Count of
+Northumberland, who, as everyone knows, was brother of the Harold who
+fought at Senlac Hill, had brought about an insurrection of the
+Northumbrians, and having been dispossessed by his brother, he revenged
+himself by inviting the help of Haralld Hadrada, King of Norway. The
+Norseman promptly accepted the offer, and, taking with him his family
+and an army of warriors, sailed for the Shetlands, where Tosti joined
+him. The united forces then came down the east coast of Britain until
+they reached Scardaburgum, where they landed and prepared to fight the
+inhabitants. The town was then built entirely of timber, and there was,
+apparently, no castle of any description on the great hill, for the
+Norsemen, finding their opponents inclined to offer a stout resistance,
+tried other tactics. They gained possession of the hill, constructed a
+huge fire, and when the wood was burning fiercely, flung the blazing
+brands down on to the wooden houses below. The fire spread from one hut
+to another with sufficient speed to drive out the defenders, who in the
+confusion which followed were slaughtered by the enemy.
+
+This occurred in the momentous year 1066, when Harold, having defeated
+the Norsemen and slain Haralld Hadrada at Stamford Bridge, had to hurry
+southwards to meet William the Norman at Hastings. It is not surprising,
+therefore, that the compilers of the Conqueror's survey should have
+failed to record the existence of the blackened embers of what had once
+been a town. But such a site as the castle hill could not long remain
+idle in the stormy days of the Norman Kings, and William le Gros, Earl
+of Albemarle and Lord of Holderness, recognising the natural
+defensibility of the rock, built the massive walls which have withstood
+so many assaults, and even now form the most prominent feature of
+Scarborough.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+WHITBY
+
+
+  'Behold the glorious summer sea
+   As night's dark wings unfold,
+   And o'er the waters, 'neath the stars,
+   The harbour lights behold.'
+
+E. Teschemacher.
+
+Despite a huge influx of summer visitors, and despite the modern town
+which has grown up to receive them, Whitby is still one of the most
+strikingly picturesque towns in England. But at the same time, if one
+excepts the abbey, the church, and the market-house, there are scarcely
+any architectural attractions in the town. The charm of the place does
+not lie so much in detail as in broad effects. The narrow streets have
+no surprises in the way of carved-oak brackets or curious panelled
+doorways, although narrow passages and steep flights of stone steps
+abound. On the other hand, the old parts of the town, when seen from a
+distance, are always presenting themselves in new apparel.
+
+In the early morning the East Cliff generally appears merely as a pale
+gray silhouette with a square projection representing the church, and a
+fretted one the abbey. But as the sun climbs upwards, colour and
+definition grow out of the haze of smoke and shadows, and the roofs
+assume their ruddy tones. At mid-day, when the sunlight pours down upon
+the medley of houses clustered along the face of the cliff, the scene is
+brilliantly coloured. The predominant note is the red of the chimneys
+and roofs and stray patches of brickwork, but the walls that go down to
+the water's edge are green below and full of rich browns above, and in
+many places the sides of the cottages are coloured with an ochre wash,
+while above them all the top of the cliff appears covered with grass. On
+a clear day, when detached clouds are passing across the sun, the houses
+are sometimes lit up in the strangest fashion, their quaint outlines
+being suddenly thrown out from the cliff by a broad patch of shadow upon
+the grass and rocks behind. But there is scarcely a chimney in this old
+part of Whitby that does not contribute to the mist of blue-gray smoke
+that slowly drifts up the face of the cliff, and thus, when there is no
+bright sunshine, colour and detail are subdued in the haze.
+
+In many towns whose antiquity and picturesqueness are more popular than
+the attractions of Whitby, the railway deposits one in some
+distressingly ugly modern excrescence, from which it may even be
+necessary for a stranger to ask his way to the old-world features he has
+come to see. But at Whitby the railway, without doing any harm to the
+appearance of the town, at once gives a visitor as typical a scene of
+fishing-life as he will ever find. When the tide is up and the wharves
+are crowded with boats, this upper portion of Whitby Harbour is at its
+best, and to step from the railway compartment entered at King's Cross
+into this busy scene is an experience to be remembered.
+
+In the deepening twilight of a clear evening the harbour gathers to
+itself the additional charm of mysterious indefiniteness, and among the
+long-drawn-out reflections appear sinuous lines of yellow light beneath
+the lamps by the bridge. Looking towards the ocean from the outer
+harbour, one sees the massive arms which Whitby has thrust into the
+waves, holding aloft the steady lights that
+
+
+  'Safely guide the mighty ships
+   Into the harbour bay.'
+
+If we keep to the waterside, modern Whitby has no terrors for us. It is
+out of sight, and might therefore have never existed. But when we have
+crossed the bridge, and passed along the narrow thoroughfare known as
+Church Street to the steps leading up the face of the cliff, we must
+prepare ourselves for a new aspect of the town. There, upon the top of
+the West Cliff, stand rows of sad-looking and dun-coloured
+lodging-houses, relieved by the aggressive bulk of a huge hotel, with
+corner turrets, that frowns savagely at the unfinished crescent, where
+there are many apartments with 'rooms facing the sea.' The only
+redeeming feature of this modern side of Whitby is the circumscribed
+area it occupies, so that the view from the top of the 199 steps we have
+climbed is not altogether vitiated. A distinctive feature of the west
+side of the river has been lost in the sails of the Union Mill, which
+were taken down some years ago, and the solid brick building where many
+of the Whitby people, by the excellent method of cooperation, obtained
+their flour at reduced prices is now the headquarters of some
+volunteers.
+
+The town seems to have no idea of re-erecting the sails of the windmill,
+and as I have so far heard of no scheme for demolishing the
+unpleasant-looking houses on the West Cliff, we will shut our eyes to
+these shortcomings, and admit that the task is not difficult in the
+presence of such a superb view over Whitby's glorious surroundings. We
+look over the chimney-stacks of the topmost houses, and see the silver
+Esk winding placidly in the deep channel it has carved for itself; and
+further away we see the far-off moorland heights, brown and blue, where
+the sources of the broad river down below are fed by the united efforts
+of innumerable tiny streams deep in the heather. Behind us stands the
+massive-looking parish church, with its Norman tower, so sturdily built
+that its height seems scarcely greater than its breadth. There is surely
+no other church with such a ponderous exterior that is so completely
+deceptive as to its internal aspect, for St. Mary's contains the most
+remarkable series of beehive-like galleries that were ever crammed into
+a parish church. They are not merely very wide and ill-arranged, but
+they are superposed one above the other. The free use of white paint all
+over the sloping tiers of pews has prevented the interior from being as
+dark as it would have otherwise been, but the result of all this painted
+deal has been to give the building the most eccentric and indecorous
+appearance. Still, there are few who will fail to thank the good folks
+of Whitby for preserving an ecclesiastical curiosity of such an unusual
+nature. The box-pews on the floor of the church are separated by very
+narrow gangways--we cannot call them aisles--and the gallery across the
+chancel arch is particularly noticeable for the twisted wooden columns
+supporting it. Various pews in the transepts and elsewhere have been
+reserved for many generations for the use of people from outlying
+villages, such as Aislaby, Ugglebarnby, and Hawskercum-Stainsacre, and
+it was this necessity for accommodating a very large congregation that
+taxed the ingenuity of the churchwardens, and resulted in the strange
+interior existing to-day.
+
+The early history of Whitby from the time of the landing of Roman
+soldiers in Dunsley Bay seems to be very closely associated with the
+abbey founded by Hilda about two years after the battle of Winwidfield,
+fought on November 15, A.D. 654; but I will not venture to state an
+opinion here as to whether there was any town at Streoneshalh before the
+building of the abbey, or whether the place that has since become known
+as Whitby grew on account of the presence of the abbey. Such matters as
+these have been fought out by an expert in the archaeology of
+Cleveland--the late Canon Atkinson, who seemed to take infinite pleasure
+in demolishing the elaborately constructed theories of those painstaking
+historians of the eighteenth century, Dr. Young and Mr. Lionel Charlton.
+
+Many facts, however, which throw light on the early days of the abbey
+are now unassailable. We see that Hilda must have been a most remarkable
+woman for her times, instilling into those around her a passion for
+learning as well as right-living, for despite the fact that they worked
+and prayed in rude wooden buildings, with walls formed, most probably,
+of split tree-trunks, after the fashion of the church at Greenstead in
+Essex, we find the institution producing, among others, such men as Bosa
+and John, both Bishops of York, and such a poet as Caadmon. The legend
+of his inspiration, however, may be placed beside the story of how the
+saintly Abbess turned the snakes into the fossil ammonites with which
+the liassic shores of Whitby are strewn. Hilda, who probably died in the
+year 680, was succeeded by Aelfleda, the daughter of King Oswin of
+Northumbria, whom she had trained in the abbey, and there seems little
+doubt that her pupil carried on successfully the beneficent work of the
+foundress.
+
+Aelfleda had the support of her mother's presence as well as the wise
+counsels of Bishop Trumwine, who had taken refuge at Streoneshalh, after
+having been driven from his own sphere of work by the depredations of
+the Picts and Scots. We then learn that Aelfleda died at the age of
+fifty-nine, but from that year--probably 713--a complete silence falls
+upon the work of the abbey; for if any records were made during the next
+century and a half, they have been totally lost. About the year 867 the
+Danes reached this part of Yorkshire, and we know that they laid waste
+the abbey, and most probably the town also; but the invaders gradually
+started new settlements, or 'bys,' and Whitby must certainly have grown
+into a place of some size by the time of Edward the Confessor, for just
+previous to the Norman invasion it was assessed for Danegeld to the
+extent of a sum equivalent to L3,500 at the present time.
+
+After the Conquest a monk named Reinfrid succeeded in reviving a
+monastery on the site of the old one, having probably gained the
+permission of William de Percy, the lord of the district. The new
+establishment, however, was for monks only, and was for some time
+merely a priory.
+
+The form of the successive buildings from the time of Hilda until the
+building of the stately abbey church, whose ruins are now to be seen, is
+a subject of great interest, but, unfortunately, there are few facts to
+go upon. The very first church was, as I have already suggested, a
+building of rude construction, scarcely better than the humble dwellings
+of the monks and nuns. The timber walls were most probably thatched, and
+the windows would be of small lattice or boards pierced with small
+holes. Gradually the improvements brought about would have led to the
+use of stone for the walls, and the buildings destroyed by the Danes
+probably resembled such examples of Anglo-Saxon work as may still be
+seen in the churches of Bradford-on-Avon and Monkwearmouth.
+
+The buildings erected by Reinfrid under the Norman influence then
+prevailing in England must have been a slight advance upon the destroyed
+fabric, and we know that during the time of his successor, Serlo de
+Percy, there was a certain Godfrey in charge of the building operations,
+and there is every reason to believe that he completed the church during
+the fifty years of prosperity the monastery passed through at that time.
+But this was not the structure which survived, for towards the end of
+Stephen's reign, or during that of Henry II., the unfortunate convent
+was devastated by the King of Norway, who entered the harbour, and, in
+the words of the chronicle, 'laid waste everything, both within doors
+and without.' The abbey slowly recovered from this disaster, and if any
+church were built on the ruins between 1160 and the reconstruction
+commenced in 1220, there is no part of it surviving to-day in the
+beautiful ruin that still makes a conspicuous landmark from the sea.
+
+It was after the Dissolution that the abbey buildings came into the
+hands of Sir Richard Cholmley, who paid over to Henry VIII. the sum of
+L333 8s. 4d. The manors of Eskdaleside and Ugglebarnby, with all 'their
+rights, members and appurtenances as they formerly had belonged to the
+abbey of Whitby,' henceforward belonged to Sir Richard and his
+successors. Sir Hugh Cholmley, whose defence of Scarborough Castle has
+made him a name in history, was born on July 22, 1600, at Roxby, near
+Pickering. He has been justly called 'the father of Whitby,' and it is
+to him we owe a fascinating account of his life at Whitby in Stuart and
+Jacobean times. He describes how he lived for some time in the
+gate-house of the abbey buildings, 'till my house was repaired and
+habitable, which then was very ruinous and all unhandsome, the wall
+being only of timber and plaster, and ill-contrived within: and besides
+the repairs, or rather re-edifying the house, I built the stable and
+barn, I heightened the outwalls of the court double to what they were,
+and made all the wall round about the paddock; so that the place hath
+been improved very much, both for beauty and profit, by me more than all
+my ancestors, for there was not a tree about the house but was set in my
+time, and almost by my own hand. The Court levels, which laid upon a
+hanging ground, unhandsomely, very ill-watered, having only the low
+well, which is in the Almsers-close, which I covered; and also
+discovered, and erected, the other adjoining conduit, and the well in
+the courtyard from whence I conveyed by leaden pipes water into the
+house, brewhouse, and washhouse.'
+
+In the spring of 1636 the reconstruction of the abbey house was
+finished, and Sir Hugh moved in with his family. 'My dear wife,' he
+says, '(who was excellent at dressing and making all handsome within
+doors) had put it into a fine posture, and furnished with many good
+things, so that, I believe, there were few gentlemen in the country, of
+my rank, exceeded it.... I was at this time made Deputy-lieutenant and
+Colonel over the Train-bands within the hundred of Whitby Strand,
+Ryedale, Pickering, Lythe and Scarborough town; for that, my father
+being dead, the country looked upon me as the chief of my family.'
+
+Sir Hugh had been somewhat addicted to gambling in his younger days, and
+had made a few debts of his own before he undertook to deal with his
+father's heavy liabilities, and in the early years of his married life
+he had been very much taken up with the difficult and arduous work of
+paying off the amounts due to the clamorous creditors. During this
+process he had been forced to live very quietly, and had incidentally
+sifted out his real friends from among his relations and acquaintances.
+Thus, it is with pardonable pride that he says: 'Having mastered my
+debts, I did not only appear at all public meetings in a very
+gentlemanly equipage, but lived in as handsome and plentiful fashion at
+home as any gentleman in all the country, of my rank. I had between
+thirty and forty in my ordinary family, a chaplain who said prayers
+every morning at six, and again before dinner and supper, a porter who
+merely attended the gates, which were ever shut up before dinner, when
+the bell rung to prayers, and not opened till one o'clock, except for
+some strangers who came to dinner, which was ever fit to receive three
+or four besides my family, without any trouble; and whatever their fare
+was, they were sure to have a hearty welcome. Twice a week, a certain
+number of old people, widows and indigent persons, were served at my
+gates with bread and good pottage made of beef, which I mention that
+those which succeed may follow the example.' Not content with merely
+benefiting the aged folk of his town, Sir Hugh took great pains to
+extend the piers, and in 1632 went to London to petition the
+'Council-table' to allow a general contribution for this purpose
+throughout the country. As a result of his efforts, 'all that part of
+the pier to the west end of the harbour' was erected, and yet he
+complains that, though it was the means of preserving a large section of
+the town from the sea, the townsfolk would not interest themselves in
+the repairs necessitated by force of the waves. 'I wish, with all my
+heart,' he exclaims, 'the next generation may have more public spirit.'
+
+Sir Hugh Cholmley also built a market-house for the town, and removed
+the bridge to its present position. Owing to rebuilding, neither of
+these actual works remains with us to-day, but their influence on the
+progress of Whitby must have been considerable.
+
+On a June morning in the year after Sir Hugh had settled down so
+handsomely in his refurbished house, two Dutch men-of-war chased into
+the harbour 'a small pickroon belonging to the King of Spain.' The
+Hollanders had 400 men in one ship and 200 in the other, but the
+Spaniard had only thirty men and two small guns. The Holland ships
+proceeded to anchor outside the harbour, and, lowering their longboats,
+sent ashore forty men, all armed with pistols. But the Spaniards had
+been on the alert, and having warped their vessel to a safer position
+above the bridge, they placed their two guns on the deck, and every man
+prepared himself to defend the ship.
+
+'I, having notice of this,' writes Sir Hugh, 'fearing they might do here
+the like affront as they did at Scarborough, where they landed one
+hundred men, and took a ship belonging to the King of Spain out of the
+harbour, sent for the Holland Captains, and ordered them not to offer
+any act of hostility; for that the Spaniard was the King's friend, and
+to have protection in his ports. After some expostulations, they
+promised not to meddle with the Dunkirker [Spaniard] if he offered no
+injury to them; which I gave him strict charge against, and to trust to
+the King's protection. These Holland Captains leaving me, and going into
+the town, sent for the Dunkirk Captain to dine with them, and soon after
+took occasion to quarrel with him, at the same time ordered their men to
+fall on the Dunkirk ship, which they soon surprised, the Captain and
+most of the men being absent. I being in my courtyard, and hearing some
+pistols discharged, and being told the Dunkirker and Hollanders were at
+odds, made haste unto the town, having only a cane in my hand, and one
+that followed me without any weapon, thinking my presence would pacify
+all differences. When I came to the river-side, on the sand between the
+coal-yard and the bridge, I found the Holland Captain with a pistol in
+his hand, calling to his men, then in the Dunkirk ship, to send a boat
+for him. I gave him good words, and held him in treaty until I got near
+him, and then, giving a leap on him, caught hold of his pistol, which I
+became master of; yet not without some hazard from the ship, for one
+from thence levelled a musket at me; but I espying it, turned the
+Captain between me and him, which prevented his shooting.'
+
+When Sir Hugh had secured the Captain, he sent a boatload of men to
+retake the ship, and as soon as the Hollanders saw it approaching, they
+fled to their own vessels outside the harbour. In the afternoon Sir Hugh
+intercepted a letter to his prisoner, telling him to be of good cheer,
+for at midnight they would land 200 men and bring him away. This was a
+serious matter, and Sir Hugh sent to Sir John Hotham, the High Sheriff
+of the county, who at once came from Fyling, and summoned all the
+adjacent train-bands. There were about 200 men on guard all through the
+night, and evidently the Hollanders had observed the activity on shore,
+for they made no attack. The ships continued to hover outside the
+harbour for two or three days, until Sir Hugh sent the Captain to York.
+He was afterwards taken to London, where he remained a prisoner, after
+the fashion of those times, for nearly two years.
+
+It was after the troublous times of the Civil War that Sir Hugh
+re-established himself at Whitby, and opened a new era of prosperity for
+himself and the townsfolk in the alum-works at Saltwick Nab.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+THE CLEVELAND HILLS
+
+On their their northern and western flanks the Cleveland Hills have a
+most imposing and mountainous aspect, although their greatest altitudes
+do not aspire more than about 1,500 feet. But they rise so suddenly to
+their full height out of the flat sea of green country that they often
+appear as a coast defended by a bold range of mountains. Roseberry
+Topping stands out in grim isolation, on its masses of alum rock, like a
+huge seaworn crag, considerably over 1,000 feet high. But this strangely
+menacing peak raises its defiant head over nothing but broad meadows,
+arable land, and woodlands, and his only warfare is with the lower
+strata of storm-clouds, which is a convenient thing for the people who
+live in these parts; for long ago they used the peak as a sign of
+approaching storms, having reduced the warning to the easily-remembered
+couplet:
+
+    'When Roseberry Topping wears a cap, 
+     Let Cleveland then beware of a clap.'
+
+In a similar manner the Scarborough folk used Oliver's Mount, the
+isolated hill at the back of the town, as a ready-made barometer, for
+they knew that
+
+  'When Oliver's Mount puts on his hat,
+   Scarborough town will pay for that.'
+
+It is difficult to decide on the correct spelling of Roseberry Topping,
+as it is often spelt in the same way as the earldom, and as frequently
+in old writings it appears as 'Rosebury.' Camden, who wrote in Tudor
+times, called it Ounsberry Topping, which certainly does not
+help matters.
+
+From the fact that you can see this remarkable peak from almost every
+point of the compass except south-westwards, it must follow that from
+the top of the hill there are views in all those directions. But to see
+so much of the country at once comes as a surprise to everyone.
+Stretching inland towards the backbone of England, there is spread out a
+huge tract of smiling country, covered with a most complex network of
+hedges, which gradually melt away into the indefinite blue edge of the
+world where the hills of Wensleydale rise from the plain. Looking across
+the little town of Guisborough, lying near the shelter of the hills, to
+the broad sweep of the North Sea, this piece of Yorkshire seems so small
+that one almost expects to see the Cheviots away in the north. But,
+beyond the winding Tees and the drifting smoke of the great
+manufacturing towns on its banks, one must be content with the county of
+Durham, a huge section of which is plainly visible. Turning towards the
+brown moorlands, the cultivation is exchanged for ridge beyond ridge of
+total desolation--a huge tract of land in this crowded England where the
+population for many square miles at a time consists of the inmates of a
+lonely farm or two in the circumscribed cultivated areas of the dales.
+
+Eight or nine hundred years ago these valleys were choked up with
+forests. The Early British inhabitants were more inclined to the
+hill-tops than the hollows, if the innumerable indications of their
+settlements be any guide, and there is every reason for believing that
+many of the hollows in the folds of the heathery moorlands were rarely
+visited by man. Thus, the suggestion has been made that a few of the
+last representatives of now extinct monsters may have survived in these
+wild retreats, for how otherwise do we find persistent stories in these
+parts of Yorkshire, handed down we cannot tell how many centuries, of
+strange creatures described as 'worms'? At Loftus they show you the spot
+where a 'grisly worm' had its lair, and in many places there are
+traditions of strange long-bodied dragons who were slain by various
+valiant men.
+
+When we remember that the last wolf was killed in Scotland in the
+seventeenth century, that Africa is still adding to the list of living
+animals, and that the caves at Kirkdale, near Kirby Moorside, revealed
+the bones of elephants, tigers, hyenas, and rhinoceroses, in an
+excellent state of preservation, though they were all broken, we are
+inclined to believe that these strange stories may have had some
+basis of fact.
+
+On Easby Moor, a few miles to the south of Roseberry Topping, the tall
+column to the memory of Captain Cook stands like a lighthouse on this
+inland coast-line. The lofty position it occupies among these brown and
+purply-green heights makes the monument visible over a great tract of
+the sailor's native Cleveland. The people who live in Marton, the
+village of his birthplace, can see the memorial of their hero's fame,
+and the country lads of to-day are constantly reminded of the success
+which attended the industry and perseverance of a humble Marton boy.
+
+The cottage where James Cook was born in 1728 has gone, but the field in
+which it stood is called Cook's Garth. The shop at Staithes, generally
+spoken of as a 'huckster's,' where Cook was apprenticed as a boy, has
+also disappeared; but, unfortunately, that unpleasant story of his
+having taken a shilling from his master's till, when the attractions of
+the sea proved too much for him to resist, persistently clings to all
+accounts of his early life. There seems no evidence to convict him of
+this theft, but there are equally no facts by which to clear him. But if
+we put into the balance his subsequent term of employment at Whitby, the
+excellent character he gained when he went to sea, and Professor J.K.
+Laughton's statement that he left Staithes 'after some disagreement with
+his master,' there seems every reason to believe that the story is
+untrue. If it were otherwise, the towering monument on Easby Moor would
+be a questionable inspiration to posterity.
+
+I have seldom seen a more uninhabited and inhospitable-looking country
+than the broad extent of purple hills that stretch away to the
+south-west from Great Ayton and Kildale Moors. Walking from Guisborough
+to Kildale on a wild and stormy afternoon in October, I was totally
+alone for the whole distance when I had left behind me the baker's boy
+who was on his way to Hutton with a heavy basket of bread and cakes.
+Hutton, which is somewhat of a model village for the retainers attached
+to Hutton Hall, stands in a lovely hollow at the edge of the moors. The
+steep hills are richly clothed with sombre woods, and the peace and
+seclusion reigning there is in marked contrast to the bleak wastes
+above. When I climbed the steep road on that autumn afternoon, and,
+passing the zone of tall, withered bracken, reached the open moorland, I
+seemed to have come out merely to be the plaything of the elements; for
+the south-westerly gale, when it chose to do so, blew so fiercely that
+it was difficult to make any progress at all. Overhead was a dark roof
+composed of heavy masses of cloud, forming long parallel lines of gray
+right to the horizon. On each side of the rough, water-worn road the
+heather made a low wall, two or three feet high, and stretched right
+away to the horizon in every direction. In the lulls, between the fierce
+blasts, I could hear the trickle of the water in the rivulets deep down
+in the springy cushion of heather. A few nimble sheep would stare at me
+from a distance, and then disappear, or some grouse might hover over a
+piece of rising ground; but otherwise there were no signs of living
+creatures. Nearing Kildale, the road suddenly plunged downwards to a
+stream flowing through a green, cultivated valley, with a lonely farm on
+the further slope. There was a fir-wood above this, and as I passed over
+the hill, among the tall, bare stems, the clouds parted a little in the
+west, and let a flood of golden light into the wood. Instantly the gloom
+seemed to disappear, and beyond the dark shoulder of moorland, where the
+Cook monument appeared against the glory of the sunset, there seemed to
+reign an all-pervading peace, the wood being quite silent, for the wind
+had dropped.
+
+The rough track through the trees descended hurriedly, and soon gave a
+wide view over Kildale. The valley was full of colour from the glowing
+west, and the steep hillsides opposite appeared lighter than the indigo
+clouds above, now slightly tinged with purple. The little village of
+Kildale nestled down below, its church half buried in yellow foliage.
+
+The railway comes through Eskdale from Whitby to Stockton-on-Tees, and
+thus gives the formerly remote valley easy communication with the
+outside world. It is dangerous, however, not to allow an ample margin
+for catching the trains, for there are only two or three in each
+direction in the autumn and winter, and a gap of about four hours
+generally separates the trains. I had been a long ramble over the moors
+on the north side of Eskdale, and had allowed the sun to set while I was
+still drawing on the top of Danby Beacon. But, having a good map with
+me, I was quite confident of finding the road to Lealholm without
+difficulty, as the distance was only a very few miles.
+
+The crimson globe in the west disappeared behind the dark horizon over
+the two Fryup valleys, and left the world in twilight. But it would not
+be dark for an hour, and except for mistaking the sheep for boulders and
+boulders for sheep, and being consequently surprised when what I had
+imagined was a mass of gray stone suddenly disappeared on my approach,
+nothing unusual happened. I had no fear of losing my way, but what my
+map had led me to believe would be a plain road was a mere track in the
+heather, and at times it became too indistinct to follow easily.
+Lealholm Station lay in the valley on my right, but I could find no road
+leading there, and I wasted precious time in frequent consultations with
+the map. Coming to a farm, I inquired the way, and was directed over a
+number of muddy fields, which gradually brought me down into the valley.
+It was now sufficiently dark for all the landmarks I had noticed to be
+scarcely visible, but, on inquiring at a cottage, I was told that it
+would take only ten minutes to walk to the station. I had a clear
+quarter of an hour, and, hurrying forward, soon found myself on a
+railway-bridge over a deep cutting. There was just enough light to see
+that no station was in sight, and it was impossible to find in which
+direction the station lay. There was no time to go back to the cottage,
+and there were no others to be seen. Looking at the map again, I could
+not discover the position of this bridge, for it was on no road, as it
+seemed merely to connect the pastures on either side. However, I felt
+fairly certain that I had rather overstepped the station, and therefore
+climbed down the bank into the cutting, and commenced walking towards
+the west. Coming out into the open, I thought I saw the lamps on the
+platforms about half a mile further on; but on pressing forward the
+lights became suddenly bigger, and in a minute my train passed me with a
+thundering rush. Evidently Lealholm was to the east, and not the west of
+that cutting. It was then 5.40, and the next train left for Whitby at
+about a quarter to ten. When the tail-lights of the train had
+disappeared into the cutting, I felt very much alone, and the silence of
+the countryside became oppressive. It seemed to me that this part of
+Yorkshire was just as lonely as when Canon Atkinson first commenced his
+work in Danby parish, and I was reminded of his friend's remark on
+hearing that he was going there: 'Why, Danby was not found out when they
+sent Bonaparte to St. Helena, or else they never would have taken the
+trouble to send him all the way there!'
+
+The ruined Danby Castle can still be seen on the slope above the Esk,
+but the ancient Bow Bridge at Castleton, which was built at the end of
+the twelfth century, was barbarously and needlessly destroyed in 1873. A
+picture of the bridge has, fortunately, been preserved in Canon
+Atkinson's 'Forty Years in a Moorland Parish.' That book has been so
+widely read that it seems scarcely necessary to refer to it here, but
+without the help of the Vicar, who knew every inch of his wild parish,
+the Danby district must seem much less interesting.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+GUISBOROUGH AND THE SKELTON VALLEY
+
+
+Although a mere fragment of the Augustinian Priory of Guisborough is
+standing to-day, it is sufficiently imposing to convey a powerful
+impression of the former size and magnificence of the monastic church.
+This fragment is the gracefully buttressed east end of the choir, which
+rises from the level meadow-land to the east of the town. The stonework
+is now of a greenish-gray tone, but in the shadows there is generally a
+look of blue. Beyond the ruin and through the opening of the great east
+window, now bare of tracery, you see the purple moors, with the
+ever-formidable Roseberry Topping holding its head above the green woods
+and pastures.
+
+The destruction of the priory took place most probably during the reign
+of Henry VIII., but there are no recorded facts to give the date of the
+spoiling of the stately buildings. The materials were probably sold to
+the highest bidder, for in the town of Guisborough there are scattered
+many fragments of richly-carved stone, and Ord, one of the historians of
+Cleveland, says: 'I have beheld with sorrow, and shame, and indignation,
+the richly ornamented columns and carved architraves of God's temple
+supporting the thatch of a pig-house.'
+
+The Norman priory church, founded in 1119, by the wealthy Robert de Brus
+of Skelton, was, unfortunately, burnt down on May 16, 1289. Walter of
+Hemingburgh, a canon of Guisborough, has written a quaintly detailed
+account of the origin of the fire. Translated from the monkish Latin, he
+says: 'On the first day of rogation-week, a devouring flame consumed our
+church of Gysburn, with many theological books and nine costly chalices,
+as well as vestments and sumptuous images; and because past events are
+serviceable as a guide to future inquiries, I have thought it desirable,
+in the present little treatise, to give an account of the catastrophe,
+that accidents of a similar nature may be avoided through this calamity
+allotted to us. On the day above mentioned, which was very destructive
+to us, a vile plumber, with his two workmen, burnt our church whilst
+soldering up two holes in the old lead with fresh pewter. For some days
+he had already, with a wicked disposition, commenced, and placed his
+iron crucibles, along with charcoal and fire, on rubbish, or steps of a
+great height, upon dry wood with some turf and other combustibles. About
+noon (in the cross, in the body of the church, where he remained at his
+work until after Mass) he descended before the procession of the
+convent, thinking that the fire had been put out by his workmen. They,
+however, came down quickly after him, without having completely
+extinguished the fire; and the fire among the charcoal revived, and
+partly from the heat of the iron, and partly from the sparks of the
+charcoal, the fire spread itself to the wood and other combustibles
+beneath. After the fire was thus commenced, the lead melted, and the
+joists upon the beams ignited; and then the fire increased prodigiously,
+and consumed everything.' Hemingburgh concludes by saying that all that
+they could get from the culprits was the exclamation, 'Quid potui ego?'
+Shortly after this disaster the Prior and convent wrote to Edward II.,
+excusing themselves from granting a corrody owing to their great losses
+through the burning of the monastery, as well as the destruction of
+their property by the Scots. But Guisborough, next to Fountains, was
+almost the richest establishment in Yorkshire, and thus in a few years'
+time there arose from the Norman foundations a stately church and
+convent built in the Early Decorated style.
+
+Glimpses of the inner life of the priory are given in the Archbishop's
+registers at York, which show how close and searching were the
+visitations by the Archbishop in person or his commissioners, and one of
+the documents throws light on the sad necessity for these inspections.
+It deals with Archbishop Wickwaine's visit in 1280, and we find that the
+canons are censured for many short-comings. They were not to go outside
+the cloister after compline (the last service of the day) on the pretext
+of visiting guests. They were not to keep expensive schools for rich or
+poor, unless with special sanction. They were to turn out of the
+infirmary and punish the persons lying there who were only pretending to
+be ill, and the really sick were to be more kindly treated. There had
+evidently been discrimination in the quality of food served out to
+certain persons in the frater; but this was to be stopped, and food of
+one kind was to be divided equally. A more strict silence was to be kept
+in the cloister, and no one was to refrain from joining in the praises
+of God whilst in the choir. There seems to have been much improper
+conversation among the canons, for they are specially adjured in Christ
+to abstain from repeating immoral stories. Some of the canons who had
+made themselves notorious for quarrelling and caballing were to be
+debarred from promotion, and were commended to the Prior and Subprior
+for punishment.
+
+In 1309 Simon Constable, a refractory canon of Bridlington, was sent to
+Guisborough to undergo a course of penance, change of residence being
+always considered to give an excellent opportunity for thorough reform.
+However, in this case no good seems to have resulted, for about five
+years later he was sent back to Bridlington with a worse character than
+before, and, besides much prayer and humiliation, he was to receive a
+_disciplina_ every Friday at the hands of the Prior. This made no
+improvement in his conduct, for in 1321 his behaviour brought him
+another penance and still greater severity. A few years after this the
+Archbishop seems to have reproached the community for the conduct of
+this unruly brother, which was scarcely fair. The last vision of Simon
+Constable shows him to be as impenitent as ever, and the Archbishop
+makes the awful threat that, if he does not reform at once, he will be
+put in a more confined place than he has ever been in before! Can this
+suggest that the wicked canon was to be bricked up alive?
+
+These internal troubles were not, however, generally known to the
+outside world, but the unfaltering searchlight of the records falls upon
+such great folk as Peter de Mauley, fifth Baron Mulgrave, whose castle
+at Mulgrave, near Whitby, is mentioned elsewhere; Lucy de Thweng, wife
+of Sir William le Latimer; Sir Nicholas de Meynyl; and Katherine, wife
+of Sir John Dentorp, whose conduct merely reflected the morals of
+medieval times. It was, indeed, no uncommon event for the congregation
+to hear some high-born culprit confessing his sins as he walked barefoot
+and scantily clothed in the procession in York Minster. An exceedingly
+beautiful crucifix of copper, richly gilded, was discovered during the
+early part of last century, when some men were digging amongst the
+foundations of an old building in Commondale. There seems little doubt
+that this was a cell or chapel belonging to the monastery, for the
+crucifix bears the date 1119, the year of the founding of Guisborough
+Priory. Another metal crucifix, probably belonging to the thirteenth
+century, was discovered at Ingleby Arncliffe. It was beautifully inlaid
+with brilliant white, green, red, and blue enamels, and the figure of
+Christ was discovered to be hollow, and to contain two ancient
+parchments, written in monkish Latin and scarcely legible. One of them
+was a charm, addressed to 'ye elves, and demons and all kind of
+apparition,' who were called upon in the name of the Trinity, the Virgin
+Mary, the Apostles, Martyrs, Mark, Matthew, Luke, and John, and the
+elect generally, to 'hurt not this servant of God, Adam Osanna, by night
+nor by day, but that, through the very great mercy of God Jesus Christ,
+by the help of Saint Mary, the mother of our Lord Jesus Christ, he may
+rest in peace from all the aforesaid and other evils.'
+
+Another intensely interesting relic of the great priory is the
+altar-tomb, believed to be that of Robert de Brus of Annandale. The
+stone slabs are now built into the walls on each side of the porch of
+Guisborough Church. They may have been removed there from the abbey for
+safety at the time of the dissolution. Hemingburgh, in his chronicle for
+the year 1294, says: 'Robert de Brus the fourth died on the eve of Good
+Friday; who disputed with John de Balliol, before the King of England,
+about the succession to the kingdom of Scotland. And, as he ordered when
+alive, he was buried in the priory of Gysburn with great honour, beside
+his own father.' A great number of other famous people were buried here
+in accordance with their wills. Guisborough has even been claimed as the
+resting-place of Robert Bruce, the champion of Scottish freedom, but
+there is ample evidence for believing that his heart was buried at
+Melrose Abbey and his body in the church of Dunfermline.
+
+The memory of Mr. George Venables--that most excellent man who devoted
+many years to gathering funds for a charity school in the town--is
+preserved on a monument in the church. He had retired from business,
+but, in order to find the means to start the school, he resumed his
+labours in London, and devoted the whole of the profits to this
+useful object.
+
+The central portion of the town of Guisborough, by the market-cross and
+the two chief inns, is quaint and fairly picturesque, but the long
+street as it goes westward deteriorates into rows of new cottages,
+inevitable in a mining country.
+
+Mining operations have been carried on around Guisborough since the time
+of Queen Elizabeth, for the discovery of alum dates from that period,
+and when that industry gradually declined, it was replaced by the
+iron-mines of to-day. Mr. Thomas Chaloner of Guisborough, in his travels
+on the Continent about the end of the sixteenth century, saw the Pope's
+alum-works near Rome, and was determined to start the industry in his
+native parish of Guisborough, feeling certain that alum could be worked
+with profit in his own county. As it was essential to have one or two
+men who were thoroughly versed in the processes of the manufacture, Mr.
+Chaloner induced some of the Pope's workmen by heavy bribes to come to
+England. The risks attending this overt act were terrible, for the
+alum-works brought in a large revenue to His Holiness, and the discovery
+of such a design would have meant capital punishment to the offender.
+The workmen were therefore induced to get into large casks, which were
+secretly conveyed on board a ship that was shortly sailing for England.
+
+When the Pope received the intelligence some time afterwards, he
+thundered forth against Mr. Chaloner and the workmen the most awful and
+comprehensive curse. They were to be cursed most wholly and thoroughly
+in every part of their bodies, every saint was to curse them, and from
+the thresholds of the holy church of God Almighty they were to be
+sequestered, that they might 'be tormented, disposed of, and delivered
+over with Dathan and Abiram, and with those who say unto the Lord God,
+"Depart from us; we desire not to know Thy ways."'
+
+Despite the fearful nature of the curse, the venture prospered so much
+that the Darcy family, about the year 1600, set up another works in the
+neighbourhood of Guisborough; and as this also brought considerable
+wealth to the owners, a third was started at Sandsend in 1615. Many
+others followed, and in 1649 Sir Hugh Cholmley started the works close
+to Saltwick Nab, within a short distance of his house at Whitby. But
+although there must have been more than twenty of these works in
+operation in the eighteenth century, owing to cheaper methods of
+producing alum the industry is now quite extinct in Cleveland.
+
+The broad valley stretching from Guisborough to the sea contains the
+beautifully wooded park of Skelton Castle. The trees in great masses
+cover the gentle slopes on either side of the Skelton Beck, and almost
+hide the modern mansion. The buildings include part of the ancient
+castle of the Bruces, who were Lords of Skelton for many years. It is
+recorded that Peter de Brus, one of the barons who helped to coerce John
+into signing the Great Charter at Runnymede, made a curious stipulation
+when he granted some lands at Leconfield to Henry Percy, his sister's
+husband. The property was to be held on condition that every Christmas
+Day he and his heirs should come to Skelton Castle and lead the lady by
+the arm from her chamber to the chapel.
+
+The old church of Upleatham, standing by the road to Saltburn, is a
+quaint fragment of a Norman building. The tower, bearing the inscription
+'William Crow, Chvrchwarden Bvlded Stepel--1664,' is an addition to what
+is probably only part of the nave of the little Norman building. It is
+now used merely as a cemetery chapel, but it is picturesquely situated,
+and on the north wall the carved Norman corbels may still be seen.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+FROM PICKERING TO RIEVAULX ABBEY
+
+
+The broad Vale of Pickering, watered by the Derwent, the Rye, and their
+many tributaries, is a wonderful contrast to the country we have been
+exploring. The level pastures, where cattle graze and cornfields abound,
+seem to suggest that we are separated from the heather by many leagues;
+but we have only to look beyond the hedgerows to see that the horizon to
+the north is formed by lofty moors only a few miles distant.
+
+Just where the low meadows are beginning to rise steadily from the vale
+stands the town of Pickering, dominated by the lofty stone spire of its
+parish church and by the broken towers of the castle. There is a wide
+street, bordered by dark stone buildings, that leads steeply from the
+river to the church. The houses are as a rule quite featureless, but we
+have learnt to expect this in a county where stone is abundant, for only
+the extremely old and the palpably new buildings stand Christ. Then
+comes Herod's feast, with the King labelled _Herodi_. The guests are
+shown with their arms on the table in the most curious positions, and
+all the royal folk are wearing ermine. The coronation of the Virgin, the
+martyrdom of St. Thomas a Becket, and the martyrdom of St. Edmund, who
+is perforated with arrows, complete the series on the north side. Along
+the south wall the paintings show the story of St. Catherine of
+Alexandria and the seven Corporal Acts of Mercy. Further on come scenes
+from the life of our Lord. There seems little doubt that all the
+paintings, including a number of others in the transepts and elsewhere
+that are now destroyed, were whitewashed over at the time of the
+Reformation, and it was during some restoration work carried out in 1851
+that indications of the paintings were accidentally laid bare. When the
+whole of the walls had been cleaned, careful coloured drawings were
+made, then colour wash was applied again, and the priceless paintings
+disappeared for a generation. The objections to what had been considered
+improper wall decoration for a parish church in the nineteenth century
+having been reasoned away, the pictures once more appeared, but in a
+very different condition to their first resurrection. However, the
+drawings were in existence, so that a careful restoration was possible,
+and as we see them to-day the subdued tones closely follow the
+original colours.
+
+The simple Norman arcade on the north side of the nave has plain round
+columns and semicircular arches, but the south side belongs to later
+Norman times, and has ornate columns and capitals. At least one member
+of the great Bruce family, who had a house at Pickering called Bruce's
+Hall, and whose ascendency at Guisborough has already been mentioned,
+was buried here, for the figure of a knight in chain-mail by the lectern
+probably represents Sir William Bruce. In the chapel there is a
+sumptuous monument bearing the effigies of Sir David and Dame Margery
+Roucliffe. The knight wears the collar of S.S., and his arms are on
+his surcoat.
+
+When John Leland, the 'Royal Antiquary' employed by Henry VIII., came to
+Pickering, he described the castle, which was in a more perfect state
+than it is to-day. He says: 'In the first Court of it be a 4 Toures, of
+the which one is Caullid Rosamunde's Toure.' Also of the inner court he
+writes of '4 Toures, wherof the Kepe is one.' This keep and Rosamund's
+Tower, as well as the ruins of some of the others, are still to be seen
+on the outer walls, so that from some points of view the ruins are
+dignified and picturesque. The area enclosed was large, and in early
+times the castle must have been almost impregnable. But during the Civil
+War it was much damaged by the soldiers quartered there, and Sir Hugh
+Cholmley took lead, wood, and iron from it for the defence of
+Scarborough. The wide view from the castle walls shows better than any
+description the importance of the position it occupied, and we feel, as
+we gaze over the vale or northwards to the moors, that this was the
+dominant power over the whole countryside.
+
+Although Lastingham is not on the road to Helmsley, the few additional
+miles will scarcely be counted when we are on our way to a church which,
+besides being architecturally one of the most interesting in the county,
+is perhaps unique in having at one time had a curate whose wife kept a
+public house adjoining the church. Although this will scarcely be
+believed, we have a detailed account of the matter in a little book
+published in 1806.
+
+The clergyman, whose name was Carter, had to subsist on the slender
+salary of L20 a year and a few surplice fees. This would not have
+allowed any margin for luxuries in the case of a bachelor; but this poor
+man was married, and he had thirteen children. He was a keen fisherman,
+and his angling in the moorland streams produced a plentiful supply of
+fish--in fact, more than his family could consume. But this, even though
+he often exchanged part of his catches with neighbours, was not
+sufficient to keep the wolf from the door, and drastic measures had to
+be taken. The parish was large, and, as many of the people were obliged
+to come 'from ten to fifteen miles' to church, it seemed possible that
+some profit might be made by serving refreshments to the parishioners.
+Mrs. Carter superintended this department, and it seems that the meals
+between the services soon became popular. But the story of 'a
+parson-publican' was soon conveyed to the Archdeacon of the diocese, who
+at the next visitation endeavoured to find out the truth of the matter.
+Mr. Carter explained the circumstances, and showed that, far from being
+a source of disorder, his wife's public-house was an influence for good.
+'I take down my violin,' he continued, 'and play them a few tunes, which
+gives me an opportunity of seeing that they get no more liquor than
+necessary for refreshment; and if the young people propose a dance, I
+seldom answer in the negative; nevertheless, when I announce time for
+return, they are ever ready to obey my commands.' The Archdeacon appears
+to have been a broad-minded man, for he did not reprimand Mr. Carter at
+all; and as there seems to have been no mention of an increased stipend,
+the parson-publican must have continued this strange anomaly.
+
+It is difficult to say whether the public-house was conducted in the
+crypt beneath the church or not. I am inclined to think that Mrs.
+Carter's inn was the present 'Blacksmith's Arms,' but there is distinct
+evidence for stating that cock-fighting used to take place secretly in
+the crypt. The writings of the Venerable Bede give a special interest to
+Lastingham, for he tells us how King Oidilward requested Bishop Cedd to
+build a monastery there. The Saxon buildings that appeared at that time
+have gone, so that the present church cannot be associated with the
+seventh century. No doubt the destruction was the work of the Danes, who
+plundered the whole of this part of Yorkshire. The church that exists
+to-day is of Transitional Norman date, and the beautiful little crypt,
+which has an apse, nave and aisles, is coeval with the superstructure.
+
+The situation of Lastingham in a deep and picturesque valley surrounded
+by moors and overhung by woods is extremely rich.
+
+Further to the west there are a series of beautiful dales, watered by
+becks whose sources are among the Cleveland Hills. On our way to
+Ryedale, the loveliest of these, we pass through Kirby Moorside, a
+little town which has gained a place in history as the scene of the
+death of the notorious George Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham, on
+April 17, 1687. The house in which he died is on the south side of the
+King's Head, and in one of the parish registers there is the entry under
+the date of April 19th, 'Gorges viluas, Lord dooke of Bookingam, etc.'
+Further down the street stands an inn with a curious porch, supported by
+turned wooden pillars, bearing the inscription:
+
+
+  'Anno: Dom 1632 October xi
+   William Wood'
+
+
+Kirkdale, with its world-renowned cave, to which we have already
+referred, lies about two miles to the west. The quaint little Saxon
+church there is one of the few bearing evidences of its own date,
+ascertained by the discovery in 1771 of a Saxon sundial, which had
+survived under a layer of plaster, and was also protected by the porch.
+A translation of the inscription reads: 'Orm, the son of Gamal, bought
+St. Gregory's Minster when it was all broken and fallen, and he caused
+it to be made anew from the ground, for Christ and St. Gregory, in the
+days of King Edward and in the days of Earl Tosti, and Hawarth wrought
+me and Brand the prior (priest or priests).' By this we are plainly told
+that a church was built there in the reign of Edward the Confessor.
+
+A pleasant road leads through Nawton to the beautiful little town of
+Helmsley. A bend of the broad, swift-flowing Rye forms one boundary of
+the place, and is fed by a gushing brook that finds its way from
+Rievaulx Moor, and forms a pretty feature of the main street. The
+cottages in many cases have preserved their thatched roofs, and have
+seldom more than one story; but they invariably appear well preserved
+and carefully painted, although these stone-built houses, with leaded
+casements, give little scope for ornament. But the Helmsley folk have
+realized the importance of white paint, and the window-frames, and even
+the strips of lead that hold the glass together, are picked out in this
+cheerful fashion. In the broad market-square the houses are large, but
+their gray respectability is broken by creepers and some pleasant spots
+of colour. The corner nearest to the church is particularly noticeable
+on account of a most picturesque gabled house, with a timber-framed
+upper floor--a style of construction exceedingly rare in these parts of
+Yorkshire. The old stone cross, raised above its worn steps, stands in
+the open space close to the modern market hall, and humbly allows the
+central position to be occupied by a Gothic cross recently erected to
+the memory of the late Lord Feversham, of Duncombe Park.
+
+A narrow turning by the market-house shows the torn and dishevelled
+fragment of the keep of Helmsley Castle towering above the thatched
+roofs in the foreground. The ruin is surrounded by tall elms, and from
+this point of view, when backed by a cloudy sunset, makes a wonderful
+picture. Like Scarborough, this stronghold was held for the King during
+the Civil War. After the Battle of Marston Moor and the fall of York,
+Fairfax came to Helmsley and invested the castle. He received a wound in
+the shoulder during the siege; but the garrison having surrendered on
+honourable terms, the Parliament ordered that the castle should be
+dismantled, and the thoroughness with which the instructions were
+carried out remind one of Knaresborough, for one side of the keep was
+blown to pieces by a terrific explosion and nearly everything else was
+destroyed.
+
+All the beauty and charm of this lovely district is accentuated in
+Ryedale, and when we have accomplished the three long uphill miles to
+Rievaulx, and come out upon the broad grassy terrace above the abbey,
+we seem to have entered a Land of Beulah. We see a peaceful valley
+overlooked on all sides by lofty hills, whose steep sides are clothed
+with luxuriant woods; we see the Rye flowing past broad green meadows;
+and beneath the tree-covered precipice below our feet appear the
+solemn, roofless remains of one of the first Cistercian monasteries
+established in this country. There is nothing to disturb the peace that
+broods here, for the village consists of a mere handful of old and
+picturesque cottages, and we might stay on the terrace for hours, and,
+beyond the distant shouts of a few children at play and the crowing of
+some cocks, hear nothing but the hum of insects and the singing of
+birds. We take a steep path through the wood which leads us down to the
+abbey ruins.
+
+The magnificent Early English choir and the Norman transepts stand
+astonishingly complete in their splendid decay, and the lower portions
+of the nave, which, until 1922, lay buried beneath masses of
+grass-grown debris, are now exposed to view. The richly-draped
+hill-sides appear as a succession of beautiful pictures framed by the
+columns and arches on each side of the choir. As they stand exposed to
+the weather, the perfectly proportioned mouldings, the clustered
+pillars in a wonderfully good state of preservation, and the almost
+uninjured celestory are more impressive than in an elaborately-restored
+cathedral.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Yorkshire--Coast & Moorland Scenes, by Gordon Home
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YORKSHIRE--COAST & MOORLAND SCENES ***
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author	Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>	2025-10-15 04:35:12 -0700
committer	Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>	2025-10-15 04:35:12 -0700
commit	d2eafb9fed48c02431fe4444d002e21c8a3bf281 (patch)
tree	03ab20be40c4a25d0eb7ccddf6331cffb733e1d9