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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:35:07 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:35:07 -0700 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/10751-0.txt b/10751-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d1fd200 --- /dev/null +++ b/10751-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2284 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10751 *** + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 10751-h.htm or 10751-h.zip: + (http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/1/0/7/5/10751/10751-h/10751-h.htm) + or + (http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/1/0/7/5/10751/10751-h.zip) + + + + + +OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA. + +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST. + +By E.L. LOMAX, General Passenger Agent, +Union Pacific System. +Omaha, Neb. + +1890 + + + + + +[Illustration: Oregon, Washington and Alaska. Sights and Scenes for the +Tourist.] + +[Illustration: Union Pacific Overland. +Sights and Scenes in Oregon, Washington and Alaska for Tourists. +Compliments of the Passenger Department, Union Pacific System, Omaha, +Neb.] + + + + + +LIST OF AGENTS. + +ALBANY, N.Y.--23 Maiden Lane--J.D. TENBROECK. Trav. Pass. Agt. + +BOSTON, MASS.--290 Washington St.--W.S. CONDELL, New England Freight +and Passenger Agent. + J.S. SMITH, Traveling Passenger Agent. + E.M. NEWBEGIN, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. + A.P. MASSEY, Passenger and Freight Solicitor. + +BUFFALO, N.Y.--40-1/2 Exchanges St.--S.A. HUTCHISON, Trav. Pass. Agt. + +BUTTE, MONT.--Corner Main and Broadway--General Agt. + +CHEYENNE, WYO.--C.W. SWEET, Freight and Ticket Agent. + +CHICAGO, ILL.--191 South Clark St.--W.H. KNIGHT, Gen'l Agt. P. and F. +Dep'ts. + T.W. YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent. + W.T. HOLLY, City Passenger Agent. + ALFRED MORTESSEN & CO., European Immigration Agts., 140 Kinzie St. + +CINCINNATI, OHIO--56 West 4th St.--J.D. WELSH, Gen'l Agt. P. and F. +Dep'ts. + H.C. SMITH, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. + +CLEVELAND, OHIO--Kennard House.--A.G. SHEARMAN, T. F. and P. Agt. + +COLORADO SPRINGS, COLO.--E.D. BAXTER, Gen'l Agt D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +COLUMBUS, OHIO--N.W. Cor. Gay and High Sts.--T.C. HIRST, Trav. Pass. Agt. + +COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA--506 First Ave.--A.J. MANDERSON, General Agt. + R.W. CHAMBERLAIN, Passenger Agent, Transfer Depot. + J.W. MAYNARD, Ticket Agent, Transfer Depot. + A.T. ELWELL, City Ticket Agent, 507 Broadway. + +DALLAS, TEX.--H.M. DE HART, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +DENVER, COLO.--1703 Larimer St.--F.I. SMITH, Gen'l Agt. D., T. & Ft. W. +R.R. + GEO. ADY, General Passenger Agent, Colo. Div. and D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + F.B. SEMPLE, Ass't Gen'l Pass. Agt, Colo. Div. and D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + C.H. TITUS, Traveling Passenger Agent. + R.P.M. KIMBALL, City Ticket Agent. + +DES MOINES, IOWA--218 4th St.--E.M. FORD, Traveling Passenger Agent. + +DETROIT, MICH.--62 Griswold St.--D.W. JOHNSTON, Michigan Pass. Agt. + +HELENA, MONT.--2 North Main St.--A.E. VEAZIE, City Ticket Agent. + +INDIANAPOLIS, IND.--Room 3 Jackson Place.--H.O. WEBB, Traveling Passenger +Agent. + +KANSAS CITY, MO.--9th and Broadway.--J.B. FRAWLEY, Div. Pass. Agt. + J.B. REESE, Traveling Passenger Agent. + F.S. HAACKE, Traveling Passenger Agent. + H.K. PROUDFIT, City Passenger Agent. + T.A. SHAW, Ticket Agent, 1038 Union Ave. + A.W. MILLSPAUGH, Ticket Agent, Union Depot. + C.A. WHITTIER, City Ticket Agent, 528 Main St. + +LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND--23 Water St.--S. STAMFORD PARRY, General European +Agent. + +LONDON, ENGLAND--THOS. COOK & SONS, European Passenger Agents, Ludgate +Circus. + +LOS ANGELES, CAL.--51 North Spring St.--JOHN CLARK, Agt. Pass. Dep't. + A.J. HECHTMAN, Agent Freight Department. + +LOUISVILLE, KY.--346 West Main St.--N. HAIGHT, Traveling Pass. Agent. + +NEW ORLEANS, LA.--45 St. Charles St.--C.B. SMITH, General Agent D., T. +& Ft. W. R.R. + D.M. REA, Traveling Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +NEW YORK CITY--287 Broadway--R. TENBROECK, General Eastern Agent. + J.F. WILEY, Passenger Agent. + F.R. SEAMAN, City Passenger Agent. + +OGDEN, UTAH--Union Depot--C.A. HENRY, Ticket Agent. + C.E. INGALLS, Traveling Passenger Agent. + +OLYMPIA, WASH.--2d St. Wharf.--J.C. PERCIVAL, Ticket Agent. + +OMAHA, NEB.--9th and Farnam Sts.--M.J. GREEVY, Trav. Pass. Agt. + HARRY P. DEUEL, City Passenger and Ticket Agent, 1302 Farnam St. + J.K. CHAMBERS, Depot Ticket Agent, 10th and Marey Sts. + +PHILADELPHIA, PA.--133 South 4th St.--D.E. BURLEY, Trav. Pass. Agt. + L.T. FOWLER, Traveling Freight Agent. + +PITTSBURG, PA.--400 Wood St.--H.E. PASSAVANT, T. F. and P. A. + THOS. S. SPEAR, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. + +PORTLAND, ORE.--Cor. 3d and Oak Sts.--T.W. LEE, Gen'l Passenger Agent, +Pacific Div. + A.L. MAXWELL, General Agent Traffic Department. + HARRY YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent. + GEO. S. TAYLOR, City Ticket Agent. Cor. 1st and Oak Sts. + +PORT TOWNSEND, WASH.--Union Wharf--H.L. TIBBALS, Jr., Ticket Agt. + +PUEBLO, COLO.--E.R. HARDING, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +ST. JOSEPH, MO.--F.L. LYNDE, General Pass. Agent, St. J. & G.I. R.R. Div. + W.P. ROBINSON, Jr., General Freight Agent, St. J. & G.I. R.R. Div. + +ST. LOUIS, MO.--213 North 4th St.--J.F. AGLAR, Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep't. + E.R. TUTTLE, Traveling Passenger Agent. + E.S. WILLIAMS, City Passenger Agent. + C.C. KNIGHT, Freight Contracting Agent. + +SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH--201 Main St.--J.V. PARKER, Assistant General +Freight and Passenger Agent, Mountain Div. + +SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.--1 Montgomery St.--W.H. HURLBURT, Assistant General +Passenger Agent, Mo. Riv. Div. + S.W. ECCLES, General Agent Freight Department. + C.L. HANNA, Traveling Passenger Agent. + H. FRODSHAM, Passenger Agent. + J.F. FUGAZI, Italian Emigrant Agent, 5 Montgomery Ave. + +SEATTLE, WASH.--A.C. MARTIN, City Ticket Agent. + O.F. BRIGGS, Ticket Agent, Dock. + +SIOUX CITY, IOWA--513 Fourth St.--D.M. COLLINS, General Agent. + GEO. E. ABBOT, City Ticket Agent. + +SPOKANE FALLS, WASH.--108 Riverside Ave.--PERRY GRIFFIN, Passenger and +Ticket Agent. + +TACOMA, WASH.--901 Pacific Ave.--E.E. ELLIS, Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep'ts. + +TRINIDAD, COLO.--G.M. JACOBS, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +VICTORIA, B.C.--100 Government St.--G.A. COOPER, Ticket Agent. + +WHATCOM, WASH.--J.W. ALTON, Gen'l Agent Freight and Pass. Dep'ts. + + +J.A.S. REED, General Traveling Agent, 191 South Clark St., CHICAGO. +ALBERT WOODCOCK, General Land Commissioner, OMAHA, NEB. + +E.L. LOMAX, General Passenger Agent, ) OMAHA, NEB. JNO. W. +SCOTT, Ass't General Passenger Agent, ) + + * * * * * + +PULLMAN'S PALACE CAR COMPANY + +Now operates this class of service on the Union Pacific and connecting +lines. + + Double Drawing +PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES BETWEEN Berths Room + +New York and Chicago $ 5.00 $ 18.00 +New York and St. Louis 6.00 22.00 +Boston and Chicago 5.50 20.00 +Chicago and Omaha or Kansas City 2.50 9.00 +Chicago and Denver 6.00 21.00 +St. Louis and Kansas City 2.00 7.00 +St. Louis and Omaha 2.50 9.00 +Kansas City and Cheyenne 4.50 15.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Denver 3.50 12.00 +Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne 4.00 14.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and + Salt Lake City 8.00 28.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Ogden 8.00 28.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Butte 8.50 32.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Portland 13.00 50.00 +C. Bluff, Omaha or K. City and San Francisco + or Los Angeles 13.00 50.00 +Cheyenne and Portland 10.00 38.00 +Denver and Leadville 2.00 ... +Denver and Portland 11.00 42.00 +Denver and Los Angeles 11.00 42.00 +Denver and San Francisco 11.00 42.00 +Pocatello and Butte 2.00 6.00 + +For a Section, Twice the Double Berth Rates will be charged. + +The Private Hotel, Dining, Hunting and Sleeping Cars of the Pullman +Company will accommodate from 12 to 18 persons, allowing a full bed +to each, and are fitted with such modern conveniences as private, +observation and smoking rooms, folding beds, reclining chairs, buffets +and kitchens. They are "_just the thing_" for tourists, theatrical +companies, sportsmen, and private parties. The Hunting Cars have special +conveniences, being provided with dog-kennels, gun-racks, fishing-tackle, +etc. These cars can be chartered at following rates per diem (the time +being reckoned from date of departure until return of same, unless +otherwise arranged with the Pullman Company): + +Less than Ten Days. + + per day. per day. +Hotel Cars $ 50.00 Private or Hunting Cars $ 35.00 +Buffet Cars 45.00 Private Cars with Buffet 30.00 +Sleeping Cars 40.00 Dining Cars 30.00 + +Ten Days or over, $5.00 per day less than above. Hotel, Buffet, or +Sleeping Cars can also be chartered for continuous trips without +lay-over between points where extra cars are furnished (cars to be +given up at destination), as follows: + +Where berth rate is $ 1.50, car rate will be $ 35.00 + " " " 2.00, " " " " 45.00 + " " " 2.50, " " " " 55.00 + +For each additional berth rate of 50 cents, car rate will be increased +$10.00. + +Above rates include service of polite and skillful attendants. The +commissariat will also be furnished if desired. Such chartered cars must +contain not less than 15 persons holding full first-class tickets, and +another full fare ticket will be required for each additional passenger +over 15. If chartered "per diem" cars are given up _en route_, chartering +party must arrange for return to original starting point free, or pay +amount of freight necessary for return thereto. Diagrams showing interior +of these cars can be had of any agent of the Company. + +PULLMAN DINING CARS + +are attached to the Council Bluffs and Denver Vestibuled Express, daily +between Council Bluffs and Denver, and to "The Limited Fast Mail," +running daily between Council Bluffs and Portland, Ore. + +MEALS. + +All trains, except those specified above (under head of Pullman Dining +Cars), stop at regular eating stations, where first-class meals are +furnished, under the direct supervision of this Company, by the Pacific +Hotel Company. Neat and tidy lunch counters are also to be found at these +stations. + +BUFFET SERVICE. + +Particular attention is called to the fine Buffet Service offered by the +Union Pacific System to its patrons. Pullman Palace Buffet Sleepers now +run on trains Nos. 1, 2, 201, and 202. + + * * * * * + +SIGHTS AND SCENES IN OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA. + +Oregon is a word derived from the Spanish, and means "wild thyme," the +early explorers finding that herb growing there in great profusion. So +far as we have any record Oregon seems to have been first visited by +white men in 1775; Captain Cook coasted down its shores in 1778. Captain +Gray, commanding the ship "Columbia," of Boston, Mass., discovered the +noble river in 1791, which he named after his ship. Astoria was founded +in 1811; immigration was in full tide in 1839; Territorial organization +was effected in 1848, and Oregon became a State on 14th February, 1859. +It has an area of 96,000 square miles, and is 350 miles long by 275 miles +wide. There are 50,000,000 acres of arable and grazing land, and +10,000,000 acres of forest in the State. + +The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates a series of +excursion tickets called "Columbia Tours," using Portland as a central +point. Stop-over privileges will be given within the limitation of the +tickets. + +First Columbia Tour: Portland to "The Dalles," by rail, and return by +river. + +Second Columbia Tour: Portland to Astoria, Ilwaco, and Clatsop Beach, and +return by river. + +Third Columbia Tour: Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma by +boat and return. + +Fourth Columbia Tour: Portland to Alaska and return. + +Fifth Columbia Tour: Portland to San Francisco by boat. + +PORTLAND + +Is a very beautiful city of 60,000 inhabitants, and situated on the +Willamette river twelve miles from its junction with the Columbia. It is +perhaps true of many of the growing cities of the West, that they do not +offer the same social advantages as the older cities of the East. But +this is principally the case as to what may be called boom cities, where +the larger part of the population is of that floating class which follows +in the line of temporary growth for the purposes of speculation, and in +no sense applies to those centers of trade whose prosperity is based on +the solid foundation of legitimate business. As the metropolis of a +vast section of country, having broad agricultural valleys filled with +improved farms, surrounded by mountains rich in mineral wealth, and +boundless forests of as fine timber as the world produces, the cause +of Portland's growth and prosperity is the trade which it has as the +center of collection and distribution of this great wealth of natural +resources, and it has attracted, not the boomer and speculator, who +find their profits in the wild excitement of the boom, but the +merchant, manufacturer, and investor, who seek the surer if slower +channels of legitimate business and investment. These have come from +the East, most of them within the last few years. They came as seeking +a better and wider field to engage in the same occupations they had +followed in their Eastern homes, and bringing with them all the love of +polite life which they had acquired there, have established here a new +society, equaling in all respects that which they left behind. Here are +as fine churches, as complete a system of schools, as fine residences, +as great a love of music and art, as can be found at any city of the +East of equal size. + +[Illustration: PORTLAND, ORE. +On the Union Pacific Ry.] + +But while Portland may justly claim to be the peer of any city of its +size in the United States in all that pertains to social life, in the +attractions of beauty of location and surroundings it stands without its +peer. The work of art is but the copy of nature. What the residents of +other cities see but in the copy, or must travel half the world over to +see in the original, the resident of Portland has at his very door. + +The city is situate on gently-sloping ground, with, on the one side, +the river, and on the other a range of hills, which, within easy +walking distance, rise to an elevation of a thousand feet above the +river, affording a most picturesque building site. From the very +streets of the thickly settled portion of the city, the Cascade +Mountains, with the snow-capped peaks of Hood, Adams, St. Helens, and +Rainier, are in plain view. As the hills to the west are ascended the +view broadens, until, from the extreme top of some of the higher +points, there is, to the east, the valley stretching away to the +Cascade Mountains, with its rivers, the Columbia and Willamette; in the +foreground Portland, in the middle distance Vancouver, and, bounding +the horizon, the Cascade Mountains, with their snow-clad peaks, and the +gorge of the Columbia in plain sight, whilst away to the north the +course of the Columbia may be followed for miles. To the west, from the +foot of the hills, the valley of the Tualatin stretches away twenty odd +miles to the Coast Range, which alone shuts out the view of the Pacific +Ocean and bounds the horizon on the west. To the glaciers of Mt. Hood +is but little more than a day's travel. The gorge of the Columbia, +which in many respects equals, and in others surpasses the far-famed +Yosemite, may be visited in the compass of a day. The Upper Willamette, +within the limits of a few hours' trip, offers beauties equaling the +Rhine, whilst thirty-six hours gives the Lower Columbia, beside which +the Rhine and Hudson sink into insignificance. In short, within a few +hours' walk of the heart of this busy city are beauties surpassing the +White Mountains or Adirondacks, and the grandeur of the Alps lies +within the limits of a day's picnicking. + +There is no better guarantee of the advantageous position of Portland +than the wealth which has accumulated here in the short period which +has elapsed since the city first sprang into existence. Theory is all +very well, but the actual proof is in the result. At the taking of the +census of 1880, Portland was the third wealthiest city in the world in +proportion to population; since that date wealth has accumulated at an +unprecedented rate, and it is probable it is to-day the wealthiest. +Among all her wealthy men, not one can be singled out who did not make +his money here, who did not come here poor to grow rich. + +Portland enjoys superb advantages as a starting-point for tourist +travel. After the traveler has enjoyed the numerous attractions of that +wealthy city, traversed its beautiful avenues, viewed a strikingly +noble landscape from "The Heights," and explored those charming +environs which extend for miles up and down the Willamette, there +remains perhaps the most invigorating and healthful trip of all--a +journey either by + +STREAM, SOUND, OR SEA. + +There must ever remain in the mind of the tourist a peculiarly +delightful recollection of a day on the majestic Columbia River, the +all too short run across that glorious sheet of water, Puget Sound, or +the fifty hours' luxurious voyage on the Pacific Ocean, from Portland +to San Francisco. + +Beginning first with the Columbia River, the traveler will find solid +comfort on any one of the boats belonging to the Union Pacific Railway +fleet. This River Division is separated into three subdivisions: the +Lower Columbia from Portland to Astoria, the Middle Columbia from +Portland to Cascade Locks, and the Upper Columbia from the Cascades +to The Dalles. + + * * * * * + +THE UPPER COLUMBIA. + +_First Tour_.--Passengers will remember that, arriving at The Dalles, +on the Union Pacific Railway, they have the option of proceeding into +Portland either by rail or river, and their ticket is available for +either route. + +[Illustration: A GLIMPSE OF MOUNT ADAMS, WASHINGTON. As seen from the +Union Pacific Ry.] + +The river trip will be found a very pleasant diversion after the long +railway ride, and a day's sail down the majestic Columbia is a +memory-picture which lasts a life-time. It is eighty-eight miles by rail +to Portland, the train skirting the river bank up to within a few miles +of the city. By river, it is forty-five miles to the Upper Cascades, then +a six-mile portage via narrow-gauge railway, then sixty miles by steamer +again to Portland. The boat leaves The Dalles at about 7 in the morning, +and reaches Portland at 6 in the evening. The accommodations on these +boats are first-class in every respect; good table, neat staterooms, and +courteous attendants. + +This tour is planned for those who may wish to start from Portland by +the Union Pacific Railway. Take the evening train from Portland to The +Dalles. Arriving at The Dalles, walk down to the boat, which lies only +a few yards down stream from the station. Sleep on board, so that you +may be ready early in the morning for the stately panorama of the +river. Another plan is to give a day to the interesting country in the +near vicinity. The Dalles proper of the Columbia begin at Celilo, +fourteen miles above this point, and are simply a succession of rapids, +until, nearing The Dalles Station, the stream for two and a half miles +narrows down between walls of basaltic rock 130 feet across. In the +flood-tides of the spring the water in this chasm has risen 126 feet. +The word "Dalles" is rather misleading. The word is French, "dalle," +and means, variously, "a plate," "a flagstone," "a slab," alluding to +the oval or square shaped stones which abound in the river bed and the +valley above. But the early French hunters and trappers called a chasm +or a defile or gorge, "dalles," meaning in their vernacular "a +trough"--and "Dalles" it has remained. There is a quaint Indian legend +connected with the spot which may interest the curious, and it runs +something on this wise, Clark's Fork and the Snake river, it will be +remembered, unite at Ainsworth to form the Columbia. It flows furiously +for a hundred miles and more westward, and when it reaches the outlying +ridges of the Cascade chain it finds an immense low surface paved with +enormous sheets of basaltic rock. But here is the legend: + +THE LEGEND OF THE DALLES. + +In the very ancient far-away times the sole and only inhabitants of the +world were fiends, and very highly uncivilized fiends at that. The +whole Northwest was then one of the centres of volcanic action. The +craters of the Cascades were fire breathers and fountains of liquid +flame. It was an extremely fiendish country, and naturally the +inhabitants fought like devils. Where the great plains of the Upper +Columbia now spread was a vast inland sea, which beat against a rampart +of hills to the east of The Dalles. And the great weapon of the fiends +in warfare was their tails, which were of prodigious size and terrible +strength. Now, the wisest, strongest, and most subtle fiend of the +entire crew was one fiend called the "Devil." He was a thoughtful +person and viewed with alarm the ever increasing tendency among his +neighbors toward fighting and general wickedness. The whole tribe met +every summer to have a tournament after their fashion, and at one of +these reunions the Devil arose and made a pacific speech. He took +occasion to enlarge on the evils of constant warfare, and suggested +that a general reconciliation take place and that they all live in +peace. The astonished fiends could not understand any such unwarlike +procedure from _him_, and with one accord, suspecting treachery, made +straight at the intended reformer, who, of course, took to his heels. +The fiends pressed him hard as he sped over the plains of The Dalles, +and as he neared the defile he struck a Titanic blow with his tail on +the pavement--and a chasm opened up through the valley, and down rushed +the waters of the inland sea. But a battalion of the fiends still +pursued him, and again he smote with his tail and more strongly, and a +vaster cleft went up and down the valley, and a more terrific torrent +swept along. The leading fiends took the leap, but many fell into the +chasm--and still the Devil was sorely pursued. He had just time to rap +once more and with all the vigor of a despairing tail. And this time he +was safe. A third crevice, twice the width of the second, split the +rocks, riving a deeper cleft in the mountain that held back the inland +sea, making a gorge through the majestic chain of the Cascades and +opening a way for the torrent oceanward. It was the crack of doom for +the fiends. Essaying the leap, they fell far short of the edge, where +the Devil lay panting. Down they fell and were swept away by the flood; +so the whole race of fiends perished from the face of the earth. But +the Devil was in sorry case. His tail was unutterably dislocated by his +last blow; so, leaping across the chasm he had made, he went home to +rear his family thoughtfully. There were no more antagonists; so, +perhaps, after all, tails were useless. Every year he brought his +children to The Dalles and told them the terrible history of his +escape. And after a time the fires of the Cascades burned away; the +inland sea was drained and its bed became a fair and habitable land, +and still the waters gushed through the narrow crevices roaring +seaward. But the Devil had one sorrow. All his children born before the +catastrophe were crabbed, unregenerate, stiff-tailed fiends. After that +event every new-born imp wore a flaccid, invertebrate, despondent +tail--the very last insignium of ignobility. So runs the legend of The +Dalles--a shining lesson to reformers. + +Leaving The Dalles in the morning, a splendid panorama begins to unfold +on this lordly stream--"Achilles of rivers," as Winthrop called it. It +is difficult to describe the charm of this trip. Residents of the East +pronounce it superior to the Hudson, and travelers assert there is +nothing like it in the Old World. It is simply delicious to those +escaped from the heat and dust of their far-off homes to embark on this +noble stream and steam smoothly down past frowning headlands and "rocks +with carven imageries," bluffs lined with pine trees, vivid green, past +islands and falls, and distant views of snowy peaks. There is no trip +like it on the coast, and for a river excursion there is not its equal +in the United States. + +THE ISLE OF THE DEAD. + +Twelve miles below "The Dalles" there is a lonely, rugged island anchored +amid stream. It is bare, save for a white monument which rises from its +rocky breast. No living thing, no vestige of verdure, or tree, or shrub, +appears. And Captain McNulty, as he stood at the wheel and steadied the +"Queen," said: + +"That monument? It's Victor Trevet's. Of course you never heard of him, +but he was a great man, all the same, here in Oregon in the old times. +Queer he was, and no mistake. Member of one of the early legislatures; +sort of a general peacemaker; everybody went to him with their troubles, +and when he said a lawsuit didn't go, it didn't, and he always stuck up +for the Indians, and always called his own kind 'dirty mean whites.' I +used to think that was put on, and maybe it was, but anyhow that's the +way he used to talk. And a hundred times he has said to me, 'John, when +I die, I want to be buried on Memaloose Isle.' That's the 'Isle of the +Dead,' which we just passed, and has been from times away back the burial +place of the Chinook Indians. It's just full of 'em. And I says to him, +'Now, Vic., it's fame your after.' 'John,' says he, 'I'll tell you: I'm +not indifferent to glory; and there's many a big gun laid away in the +cemetery that people forget in a year, and his grave's never visited +after a few turns of the wheel; but if I rest on Memaloose Isle, I'll not +be forgotten while people travel this river. And another thing: You know, +John, the dirty, mean whites stole the Indian's burial ground and built +Portland there. Everyday the papers have an account of Mr. Bigbug's +proposed palace, and how Indian bones were turned up in the excavation. I +won't be buried alongside any such dirty, mean thieves. And I'll tell you +further, John, that it may be if I am laid away among the Indians, when +the Great Day comes I can slip in kind of easy. They ain't going to have +any such a hard time as the dirty whites will have, and maybe I won't be +noticed, and can just slide in quiet along with their crowd.' + +"And I tell you," said the honest Captain, as he swung the "Queen" around +a sharp headland, and the monument and island vanished, "he has got his +wish. He don't lay among the whites, and there isn't a day in summer when +the name of Vic. Trevet ain't mentioned, either on yon train or on a boat, +just as I am telling it to you now. When he died in San Francisco five +years ago, some of his old friends had him brought back to 'The Dalles,' +and one lovely Sunday (being an off day) we buried him on Memaloose Isle, +and then we put up the monument. His earthly immortality is safe and sure, +for that stone will stand as long as the island stays. She's eight feet +square at the base, built of the native rock right on the island, then +three feet of granite, then a ten-foot column. It cost us $1,500, and +Vic. is bricked up in a vault underneath. Yes, sir, he's there for sure +till resurrection day. Queer idea? Why, blame it all, if he thought he +could get in along with the Chinooks it's all right, ain't it? Don't want +a man to lose any chances, do you?" + +[Illustration: MULTNOMAH FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +So much has been said of this mighty river that the preconceived idea +of the tourist is of a surging flood of unknown depth rushing like a +mountain torrent. The plain facts are that the Lower Columbia is rather +a placid stream, with a sluggish current, and the channel shoals up to +eight feet, then falling to twelve, fifteen and seventeen feet, and +suddenly dropping to 100 feet of water and over. In the spring months +it will rise from twenty-five to forty feet, leaving driftwood high up +among the trees on the banks. The tide ebbs and flows at Portland from +eighteen inches to three feet, according to season, and this tidal +influence is felt, in high water, as far up as the Cascades. It is +fifty miles of glorious beauty from "The Dalles" to the Cascades. Here +we leave the steamer and take a narrow-gauge railway for six miles +around the magnificent rapids. At the foot of the Cascades we board a +twin boat, fitted up with equal taste and comfort. + +THE MIDDLE COLUMBIA. + +Swinging once more down stream we pass hundreds of charming spots, sixty +miles of changeful beauty all the way to Portland; Multnomah Falls, a +filmy veil of water falling 720 feet into a basin on the hillside and +then 130 feet to the river; past the rocky walls of Cape Horn, towering +up a thousand feet; past that curious freak of nature, Rooster Rock, and +the palisades; past Fort Vancouver, where Grant and Sheridan were once +stationed, and just at sunset leaving the Columbia, which by this time +has broadened into noble dimensions, we ascend the Willamette twelve +miles to Portland. And the memory of that day's journey down the lordly +river will remain a gracious possession for years to come. + +THE LEGEND OF THE CASCADES. + +There is a quaint Indian legend concerning the Cascades to the effect +that away back in the forgotten times there was a natural bridge across +the river--the water flowing under one arch. The Great Spirit had made +this bridge very beautiful for his red children; it was firm, solid +earth, and covered with trees and grass. The two great giants who sat +always glowering at each other from far away (Mount Adams and Mount +Hood) quarreled terribly once on a time, and the sky grew black with +their smoke and the earth trembled with their roaring. And in their +rage and fury they began to throw great stones and huge mountain +boulders at one another. This great battle lasted for days, and when +the smoke and the thunderings had passed away and the sun shone +peacefully again, the people came back once more. But there was no +bridge there. Pieces of rock made small islands above the lost bridge, +but below that the river fretted and shouted and plunged over jagged +and twisted boulders for miles down the stream, throwing the spray high +in air, madly spending its strength in treacherous whirlpools and deep +seductive currents--ever after to be wrathful, complaining, dangerous. +The stoutest warrior could not live in that terrible torrent. So the +beautiful bridge was lost, destroyed in this Titan battle, but far down +in the water could be seen many of the stately trees which the Great +Spirit caused to remain there as a token of the bridge. These he turned +to stone, and they are there even unto this day. The theory of the +scientists, of course, runs counter to the pretty legend. Science +usually does destroy poetry, and they tell us that a part of the +mountain slid into the river, thus accounting for the remnant of a +forest down in the deep water. Moreover, pieces which have been +recovered show the wood to be live timber, and not petrified, as the +poetic fiction has it. The Columbia has not changed in the centuries, +but flows in the same channel here as when in the remote ages the lava, +overflowing, cut out a course and left its pathway clear for all time. +Below the lower Cascades a sea-coral formation is found, grayish in +color and not very pretty, but showing conclusively its sea formation. +Sandstone is also at times uncovered, showing that this was made by sea +deposit before the lava flowed down upon it. This Oregon country is +said to be the largest lava district in the world. The basaltic +formations in the volcanic lands of Sicily and Italy are famous for +their richness, and Oregon holds out the same promise for agriculture. +The lava formation runs from Portland to Spokane Falls, as far north as +Tacoma, and south as far as Snake river--all basaltic formation +overlaid with an incomparably rich soil. + +[Illustration: BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union +Pacific Ry.] + +The trip from Portland by rail to "The Dalles," if the tourist should +chance not to arrive in Portland by the Union Pacific line from the +east, will be found charming. It is eighty-eight miles distant. +Multnomah Falls is reached in thirty-two miles; Bonneville, forty-one +miles, at the foot of the Cascades; five miles farther is the +stupendous government lock now in process of building around the +rapids; Hood river, sixty-six miles, where tourists leave for the +ascent of Mount Hood. It is about forty miles through a picturesque +region to the base of the mountain. Then from Hood river, an ice-cold +stream, twenty-two miles into "The Dalles," where the steamer may be +taken for the return trip. In this eighty-eight miles from Portland to +"The Dalles" there are twelve miles of trestles and bridges. The +railway follows the Columbia's brink the entire distance to within a +few miles of the city. The scenery is impressively grand; the bluffs, +if they may be so called, are bold promontories attaining majestic +heights. One timber shute, where the logs come whizzing into the river +with the velocity of a cannon-ball, is 3,328 feet long, and it is +claimed a log makes the trip in twenty seconds. + +THE LOWER COLUMBIA. + +_Second Tour_.--While the Upper Columbia abounds in scenery of wild and +picturesque beauty, the tourist must by no means neglect a trip down +the lower river from Portland to Astoria and Ilwaco, and return. The +facilities now offered by the Union Pacific in its splendid fleet of +steamers render this a delightful excursion. On a clear day, one may +enjoy at the junction of the Willamette with the Columbia a very +wonderful sight--five mountain peaks are on view: St. Helens, Mt. +Jefferson, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Rainier. St. Helens, queen of +the Cascade Range, a fair and graceful cone. Exquisite mantling snows +sweep along her shoulders toward the bristling pines. Not far from her +base, the Columbia crashes through the mountains in a magnificent +chasm, and Mt. Hood, the vigorous prince of the range, rises in a keen +pyramid some 12,000 feet. Small villages and landing-places line the +shores, almost too numerous to mention. There are, of the more +important, St. Johns, St. Helens, Columbia City, Kalama, Rainier, +Westport, Cathlamet, Knappa, and Astoria at the mouth, a busy place of +6,000 people. Salmon canneries there are without number. It is about 98 +miles by the chart from Portland to Astoria. Across the bay is the +pretty town of Ilwaco. Ft. Canby and Cape Disappointment look across to +Ft. Stevens and Point Adams. From Astoria, one may drive eighteen miles +to Clatsop Beach, famous for its clams, crab, and trout, and Ben +Holliday's hotel. But the fullest enjoyment is obtained by making a +round trip, including a lay-over at Ilwaco all night, and returning to +Portland next day, and sleeping on board the boat. A railway runs from +the town to the outside beach, a mile and a half distant. There is a +drive twenty-five miles long up this long beach to Shoal Water Bay, +which is beautiful beyond description. This district is the great +supply point for oysters, heavy shipments being made as far south as +San Francisco. Sea bathing, both here and at Clatsop Beach, is very +fine. + +The boats of the Union Pacific Ry. on the Columbia leave nothing to be +desired. The "T.J. Potter," a magnificent side-wheel steamer, made her +first trip in July, 1888. She is 235 feet long, 35 feet beam, and 10 +feet hold, with a capacity of 600 passengers. The saloon and +state-rooms are fitted with every convenience, and handsomely +decorated. The "Potter" was built entirely in Portland, and the +citizens naturally take great pride in the superb vessel. In August, +1888, this steamer made the run from her berth at Portland to the +landing stage at Astoria in five hours and thirty-one minutes. Then +there are two night passenger boats from Portland down, the "R.R. +Thompson" and the "S.G. Reed," both stern-wheelers of large size, +spacious, roomy boats, well appointed in every particular. The Thompson +is 215 feet long, 38 feet beam, and 1,158 tons measurement. In addition +to these, there are two day mail passenger and freight boats; they +handle the way traffic; the larger boats above mentioned make the run +direct from Portland to Astoria without any landings. + +SOME RANDOM NOTES. + +A mistaken idea has possessed many tourists that the Puget Sound steamers +start from Portland; they leave Tacoma for all points on the Sound, and +Tacoma is about 150 miles by rail from Portland. + +One steamer sails every twelfth day from Portland to Seattle. + +One steamer per month leaves Portland for Alaska, but she touches at Port +Townsend before proceeding north. + +One steamship leaves Tacoma for Alaska during the season of 1890, about +every fifteen days, from June to September. + +The Ocean steamers sail every fourth day from Portland to San Francisco. + +There are semi-weekly boats between Portland and Corvallis, and +tri-weekly between Portland and Salem. + +On the Sound there are three boats each way, daily (except Sunday), +between Tacoma and Seattle; one boat each way, daily (except Sunday), +between Tacoma and Victoria; one boat each way, daily (except Sunday), +between Seattle and Whatcom, and one boat, daily (except Sunday), between +Whatcom and Seminahmoo. + +Only one class of tickets is sold on the River and Sound boats; on the +Ocean steamers there are two classes: cabin and steerage. The steerage +passengers on the Ocean steamers have a dining-room separate from the +first-class passengers--on the lower deck--and are given abundance of +wholesome food, tea and coffee. + +On River and Sound boats, a ticket does not include meals and berths, but +it does on the ocean voyage, or the Alaska trip. The usual price for meals +is 50 cents, and they will be found uniformly excellent. Breakfast, lunch, +and a 6 o'clock dinner are served. + +The price of berths on these boats runs from 50 cents for a single berth +to $3 per day for the bridal chamber. + +No liquors of any kind are kept on sale on any River or Sound steamer, +but a small stock of the best brands will be found on the Ocean steamers. + +State-rooms on the River and Sound steamers are provided with one double +lower and one single upper berth. + +Passengers can, if they choose, purchase the full accommodation of a +state-room. + +The steerage capacity of each of the three Ocean steamers is about 300. + +The diagram of the Ocean steamers and the night boats to Astoria can +always be found at the Union Ticket Office of the Union Pacific Railway +in Portland, corner First and Oak Streets. + +Tourists receive more than an ordinary amount of attention on these +steamers, more than is possible to pay them on a railway train. The +pursers will be found polite and obliging, always ready to point out +places of interest and render those little attentions which go so far +toward making travel pleasant. + +On River and Sound boats, the forward cabin is generally the +smoking-room, the cabin amidships is used for a "Social Hall," and the +"After Saloon" is always the ladies' cabin. + +All Union Pacific steamers in the Ocean service are heated with steam and +lighted with electricity; all have pianos and a well-selected library. The +beds on these boats are well-nigh perfect, woven-wire springs and heavy +mattresses. They are kept scrupulously clean--the company is noted for +that--and the steerage is as neat as the main saloon. + +One hundred and fifty pounds of baggage is allowed free on board both +boats and trains. + +Boats leaving terminal points at any time between 10 p.m. and 7 a.m., +arrange so that passengers can go on board after 7 p.m. and retire to +their state-rooms, thus enjoying an unbroken night's rest. + +Sea-sickness is never met with on the Sound, and very rarely on the +voyage from Portland to San Francisco. On the Pacific, the ship is never +out of sight of land, and the sea is as smooth as a mill-pond. + +The heaviest swell encountered is going over the Columbia River Bar. The +ocean is uniformly placid during the summer months. The trip, with its +freedom from the dust, rush, and roar of a train, and the inexorable +restraint one always feels on the cars, is a delightful one, and with +larger comforts and more luxurious surroundings, one enjoys the added +pleasure of courteous and thoughtful service from the various officers of +the ship. + +Taking the "Columbia" as a sample of the class of steamships in the +Union Pacific fleet, we notice that she is 334 feet long, 2,200 +horse-power, nearly 3,000 tonnage, has 65 state-rooms, and can +accommodate 200 saloon and 200 steerage passengers. Steam heat and +electric light are used. In 1880 the first plant from Edison's factory +was put on board the "Columbia," at that time a great curiosity, she +being the first ship to use the incandescent light. + +[Illustration: CRATER LAKE, ORE. +Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +CRATER LAKE. + +Crater Lake is situate in the northwestern portion of Klamath county, +Oregon, and is best reached by leaving the Southern Pacific Railroad at +Medford, which is 328 miles south of Portland, and about ninety miles +from the lake, which can be reached by a very good wagon road. The lake +is about six miles wide by seven miles long, but it is not its size +which is its beauty or its attraction. The surface of the water in the +lake is 6,251 feet above the level of the sea, and is surrounded by +cliffs or walls from 1,000 to over 2,000 feet in height, and which are +scantily covered with timber, and which offer at but one point a way of +reaching the water. The depth of the water is very great, and it is +very transparent, and of a deep blue color. Toward the southwestern +portion of the lake is Wizard Island, 845 feet high, circular in shape, +and slightly covered with timber. In the top of this island is a +depression, or crater--the Witches' Caldron--100 feet deep, and 475 +feet in diameter, which was evidently the last smoking chimney of a +once mighty volcano, and which is now covered within, as without, with +volcanic rocks. North of this island, and on the west side of the lake, +is Llao Rock, reaching to a height of 2,000 feet above the water, and +so perpendicular that a stone may be dropped from its summit to the +waters at its base, nearly one-half mile below. + +So far below the surrounding mountains is the surface of the waters in +this lake, that the mountain breezes but rarely ripple them; and looking +from the surrounding wall, the sky and cliffs are seen mirrored in the +glassy surface, and it is with difficulty the eye can distinguish the +line where the cliffs leave off and their reflected counterfeits begin. + +OREGON NATIONAL PARK. + +Townships 27, 28, 29, 30, and 31, in Ranges 5 and 6 east of the +Willamette meridian, are asked to be set apart as the Oregon National +Park. This area contains Crater Lake and its approaches. The citizens of +Oregon unanimously petitioned the President for the reservation of this +park, and a bill in conformity with the petition passed the United States +Senate in February, 1888. + + * * * * * + +_Third Tour_.--From Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma. + +WASHINGTON + +Is 340 miles long by about 240 wide. The first actual settlement by +Americans was made at Tumwater in 1845. Prior to this, the country was +known only to trappers and fur traders. Territorial government was +organized in 1853, and Washington was admitted as a State, November, +1889. The State is almost inexhaustibly rich in coal and lumber, and +has frequently been called the "Pennsylvania of the Pacific Coast." The +precious metals are also found in abundance in many districts. The +yield of wheat is prodigious. Apples, pears, apricots, plums, prunes, +peaches, cherries, grapes, and all berries flourish in the greatest +profusion. Certain it is that there is no other locality where trees +bear so early and surely as here, and where the fruit is of greater +excellence, and where there are so few drawbacks. At the Centennial +Exposition, Washington Territory fruit-tables were the wonder of +visitors and an attractive feature of the grand display. This Territory +carried off seventeen prizes in a competitive contest where +thirty-three States were represented. + +It is a pleasant journey of 150 miles through the pine forests from +Portland to Tacoma. Any one of the splendid steamers of the Union +Pacific may be taken for a trip to Victoria. Leaving Tacoma in the +morning, we sail over that noble sheet of water, Puget Sound. The hills +on either side are darkly green, the Sound widening slowly as we go. +Seattle is reached in three hours, a busy town of 35,000 people, full +of vim, push, and energy. Twenty million dollars' worth of property +went up in flame and smoke in Seattle's great fire of June 6, 1889. The +ashes were scarcely cold when her enthusiastic citizens began to build +anew, better, stronger, and more beautiful than before. A city of +brick, stone, and iron has arisen, monumental evidence of the energy, +pluck, and perseverance of the people, and of their fervent faith in +the future of Seattle. Then Port Townsend, with its beautiful harbor +and gently sloping bluffs, "the city of destiny," beyond all doubt, of +any of the towns on the Sound. Favored by nature in many ways, Townsend +has the finest roadstead and the best anchorage ground in these waters, +and this must tell in the end, when advantages for sea trade are +considered. Victoria, B.C., is reached in the evening, and we sleep +that night in Her Majesty's dominions. The next day may be spent very +pleasantly in driving and walking about the city, a handsome town of +14,000 people. + +[Illustration: CASCADES, FROM THE OREGON SHORE, COLUMBIA RIVER. On the +Union Pacific Ry.] + +A thorough system of macadamized roads radiates from Victoria, +furnishing about 100 miles of beautiful drives. Many of these drives +are lined with very handsome suburban residences, surrounded with lawns +and parks. Esquimalt, near Victoria, has a fine harbor. This is the +British naval station where several iron-clads are usually stationed. +There is also an extensive dry-dock, hewn out of the solid rock, +capacious enough to receive large vessels. + +In the evening after dinner, one can return to the steamer and take +possession of a stateroom, for the boat leaves at four in the morning. +When breakfast time comes we are well on our return trip, and moving +past Port Townsend again. The majestic straits of Fuca, through which +we have passed, are well worth a visit; it is a taste of being at sea +without any discomfort, for the water is without a ripple. As we steam +homeward there is a vision which has been described for all time by a +master hand. "One becomes aware of a vast, white shadow in the water. +It is a giant mountain dome of snow in the depths of tranquil blue. The +smoky haze of an Oregon August hid all the length of its lesser ridges +and left this mighty summit based upon uplifting dimness. Only its +splendid snows were visible high in the unearthly regions of clear, +noonday sky. Kingly and alone stood this majesty without any visible +comrade, though far to the north and south there were isolated +sovereigns. This regal gem the Christians have dubbed Mount Rainier, +but more melodious is its Indian name, 'Tacoma.'" + +A LEGEND OF TACOMA. + +Theodore Winthrop, in his own brilliant way, tells a quaint legend of +Tacoma, as related to him by a frowsy Siwash at Nisqually. "Tamanous," +among the native Indians of this section, is a vague and +half-personified type of the unknown and mysterious forces of Nature. +There is the one all-pervading Tamanous, but there are a thousand +emanations, each one a tamanous with a small "t." Each Indian has his +special tamanous, who thus becomes "the guide, philosopher, and friend" +of every Siwash. The tamanous, or totem, types himself as a salmon, a +beaver, an elk, a canoe, a fir-tree, and so on indefinitely. In some of +its features this legend resembles strongly the immortal story of Rip +Van Winkle; it may prove interesting as a study in folk-lore. + +"Avarice, O, Boston tyee!" quoth the Siwash, studying me with dusky +eyes, "is a mighty passion. Know you that our first circulating medium +was shells, a small perforated shell not unlike a very opaque quill +toothpick, tapering from the middle, and cut square at both ends. We +string it in many strands and hang it around the neck of one we +love--namely, each man his own neck. And with this we buy what our +hearts desire. Hiaqua, we call it, and he who has most hiaqua is wisest +and best of all the dwellers on the Sound. + +"Now, in old times there dwelt here an old man, a mighty hunter and +fisherman. And he worshipped hiaqua. And always this old man thought +deeply and communed with his wisdom, and while he waited for elk or +salmon he took advice within himself from his demon--he talked with +tamanous. And always his question was, 'How may I put hiaqua in my +purse?' But never had Tamanous revealed to him the secret. There loomed +Tacoma, so white and glittering that it seemed to stare at him very +terribly and mockingly, and to know of his shameful avarice, and how it +led him to take from starving women their cherished lip and nose jewels +of hiaqua, and give them in return tough scraps of dried elk-meat and +salmon. His own peculiar tamanous was the elk. One day he was hunting +on the sides of Tacoma, and in that serene silence his tamanous began +to talk to his soul. 'Listen!' said tamanous--and then the great secret +of untold wealth was revealed to him. He went home and made his +preparations, told his old, ill-treated squaw he was going for a long +hunt, and started off at eventide. The next night he camped just below +the snows of Tacoma, but sunrise and he struck the summit together, for +there, tamanous had revealed to him, was hiaqua--hiaqua that should +make him the greatest and richest of his tribe. He looked down and saw +a hollow covered with snow, save at the centre, where a black lake lay +deep in a well of purple rock, and at one end of the lake were three +large stones or monuments. Down into the crater sprang the miser, and +the morning sunshine followed him. He found the first stone shaped like +a salmon head; the second like a kamas root, and the third, to his +great joy, was the carven image of an elk's head. This was his own +tamanous, and right joyous was he at the omen, so taking his elk-horn +pick he began to dig right sturdily at the foot of the monument. At the +sound of the very first blow he made, thirteen gigantic otters came out +of the black lake and, sitting in a circle, watched him. And at every +thirteenth blow they tapped the ground with their tails in concert The +miser heeded them not, but labored lustily for hours. At last, +overturning a thin scale of rock, he found a square cavity filled to +the brim with hiaqua. + +"He was a millionaire. + +"The otters retired to a respectful distance, recognizing him as a +favorite of Tamanous. + +"He reveled in the treasure, exulting. Deep as he could plunge his arm, +there was still more hiaqua below. It was strung upon elk sinews, fifty +shells on a string. But he saw the noon was passed, so he prepared to +depart. He loaded himself with countless strings of hiaqua, by fifties +and hundreds, so that he could scarcely stagger along. Not a string did +he hang on the tamanous of the elk, or the salmon, or the kamas--not +one--but turned eagerly toward his long descent. At once all the otters +plunged back into the lake and began to beat the waters with their tails; +a thick, black mist began to rise threateningly. Terrible are the storms +in the mountains--and Tamanous was in this one. Instantly the fierce +whirlwind overtook the miser. He was thrown down and flung over icy +banks, but he clung to his precious burden. Utter night was around him, +and in every crash and thunder of the gale was a growing undertone which +he well knew to be the voice of Tamanous. Floating upon this undertone +were sharper tamanous voices, shouting and screaming, always sneeringly, +'Ha, ha, hiaqua!--ha, ha, ha!' Whenever the miser attempted to continue +his descent the whirlwind caught him and tossed him hither and thither, +flinging him into a pinching crevice, burying him to the eyes in a snow +drift, throwing him on jagged boulders, or lacerating him on sharp lava +jaws. But he held fast to his hiaqua. The blackness grew ever deeper and +more crowded with perdition; the din more impish, demoniac, and devilish; +the laughter more appalling; and the miser more and more exhausted with +vain buffeting. He at last thought to propitiate exasperated Tamanous, +and threw away a string of hiaqua. But the storm was renewed blacker, +louder, crueler than before. String by string he parted with his +treasure, until at the last, sorely wounded, terrified, and weak, with a +despairing cry, he cast from him the last vestige of wealth, and sank +down insensible. + +[Illustration: ROOSTER ROCK, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +"It seemed a long slumber to him, but at last he woke. He was upon the +very spot whence he started at morning. He felt hungry, and made a +hearty breakfast of the chestnut-like bulbs of the kamas root, and took +a smoke. Reflecting on the events of yesterday, he became aware of an +odd change in his condition. He was not bruised and wounded, as he +expected, but very stiff only, and his joints creaked like the creak of +a lazy paddle on the rim of a canoe. His hair was matted and reached a +yard down his back. 'Tamanous,' thought the old man. But chiefly he was +conscious of a mental change. He was calm and content. Hiaqua and +wealth seemed to have lost their charm for him. Tacoma, shining like +gold and silver and precious stones of gayest lustre, seemed a benign +comrade and friend. All the outer world was cheerful, and he thought +he had never wakened to a fresher morning. He rose and started on +his downward way, but the woods seemed strangely transformed since +yesterday; just before sunset he came to the prairie where his lodge +used to be; he saw an old squaw near the door crooning a song; she was +decked with many strings of hiaqua and costly beads. It was his wife; +and she told him he had been gone many, many years--she could not tell +how many; that she had remained faithful and constant to him, and +distracted her mind from the bitterness of sorrow by trading in kamas +and magic herbs, and had thus acquired a genteel competence. But little +cared the sage for such things; he, was rejoiced to be at home and at +peace, and near his own early gains of hiaqua and treasure buried in +a place of security. He imparted whatever he possessed--material +treasures or stores of wisdom and experience--freely to all the land. +Every dweller came to him for advice how to spear the salmon, chase the +elk, or propitiate Tamanous. He became the great medicine man of the +Siwashes and a benefactor to his tribe and race. Within a year after he +came down from his long nap on the side of Tacoma, a child, my father, +was born to him. The sage lived many years, revered and beloved, and on +his death-bed told this history to my father as a lesson and a warning. +My father dying, told it to me. But I, alas! have no son; I grow old, +and lest this wisdom perish from the earth, and Tamanous be again +obliged to interpose against avarice, I tell the tale to thee, O Boston +tyee. Mayst thou and thy nation not disdain this lesson of an earlier +age, but profit by it and be wise!" + +So far the Siwash recounted his legend without the palisades of Fort +Nisqually, and motioning, in expressive pantomime, at the close, that he +was dry with big talk and would gladly "wet his whistle." + +The town of Tacoma contains about 15,000 inhabitants, and is in a highly +prosperous condition. From here one may start on the grand Alaskan tour, +winding up through all the wonders of sound and strait, bay and ocean, to +the far North summerland--a trip of most entrancing interest. The return +from Tacoma to Portland may be made by either rail or boat. + +So much has already been said in preceding pages about Puget Sound that +it would seem the subject might be somewhat overdone. But it still +remains to be said that justice can never be done to the scenic glories +of this beautiful inland sea. The views from different points, and from +almost every point on the Sound, are of sublime grandeur. On the east are +the Cascade Mountains, ranging from 5,000 to 14,444 feet in height, Mount +Rainier for Tacoma, (as it is also called) being of the latter altitude, +and only third in height of the mountains of the United States. On the +west are the Olympic Mountains, the highest peaks of which reach up to +8,000 feet. Both ranges, brilliantly snow-crowned, are within view at the +same time from various points, and the scenery in its entirety, with its +continual changefulness and features of sublimity, can not be excelled. +Strangers and travelers who have visited every part of the world never +leave the deck of the steamers while going through the waters of the +Sound country. In noting a single feature, Mount Rainier, Senator George +F. Edmunds wrote as follows: "I have been through the Swiss mountains, +and am compelled to own that there is no comparison between the finest +effects exhibited there and what is seen in approaching this grand and +isolated mountain. I would be willing to go 500 miles again to see that +scene. The Continent is yet in ignorance of what will be one of the +grandest show places, as well as sanitariums. If Switzerland is rightly +called the play-ground of Europe, I am satisfied that around the base of +Mt. Rainier will become a prominent place of resort, not for America +only, but for the world besides, with thousands of sites for building +purposes that are nowhere excelled for the grandeur of the view that can +be obtained from them, with topographical features that would make the +most perfect system of drainage both possible and easy, and with a most +agreeable and health-giving climate." + +A more enthusiastic writer says: "Puget Sound scenery is the grandest +scenery in the world. One has here in combination the sublimity of +Switzerland, the picturesqueness of the Rhine, the rugged beauty of +Norway, the breezy variety of the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence, +or the Hebrides of the North Sea, the soft, rich-toned skies of Italy, +the pastoral landscape of England, with velvet meadows and magnificent +groves, massed with floral bloom, and the blending tints and bold color +of the New England Indian summer. Features with which nothing within the +vision of another city can be placed in comparison are the Olympic range +of mountains in front of Seattle, and the sublime snow peaks of the +Rainier, Baker, Adams, and St. Helens, with their glaciers and robes of +eternal white, and the great falls of the Snoqualmie, 280 feet high, near +by." + +[Illustration: MOUNT ST. HELENS, WASHINGTON, FROM NEAR MOUTH OF THE +WILLAMETTE RIVER. Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +The geography and topography of this sheet are alone a wonder and a +study. Glance upon the map. The elements of earth and water seem to +have struggled for dominion one over the other. The Strait of Juan de +Fuca and the Gulf of Georgia to the south narrow into Admiralty Inlet; +the inlet penetrates the very heart of the Territory, cutting the land +into most grotesque shapes, circling and twisting into a hundred minor +inlets, into which flow a hundred rivers, fed in their turn by myriads +of smaller creeks and bayous--a veritable network of lakes, streams, +peninsulas, and islands which, with the mountain ranges backing the +landscapes on either hand, can not fail to be picturesque in the +extreme. Here on the placid bosom of this inland sea, the pleasure +seeker can enjoy all the delights and exhilarating influences of ocean +travel without its inconveniences. No sea sickness, no proneness to +reflect on "to be or not to be," but, amid the bracing breezes, the +steady, easy glide of the commodious steamer over pleasant waters, +takes him through scenes as fair as the poet's brightest dreams. This +"Mediterranean of the Pacific" throughout its length and breadth is +adorned with heavily-wooded and fantastically-formed islands. The giant +firs are the tallest and straightest in the world. Here the "Great +Eastern" came for her masts, and here thousands of ships obtain their +spars yearly. + +To repeat, the scenery is indeed something unsurpassed. A ride over these +placid waters, in and out, around rocky headlands, among woody mountains, +along beautiful beaches and graceful tongues of velvety meadows--all +'neath the shadows of towering, snow-clad peaks, is a delight worth days +of travel to experience. It enraptures the artist and enthuses even +ordinarily prosy folks. There is no single feature wanting to make of +such places as Tacoma, Seattle, and Port Townsend, the most delightful +and agreeable watering places in the world. Surrounded by magnificent and +picturesque scenery, with beautiful drives and lovely bays for yachting +purposes, with splendid fishing and sport of every description to be had, +with a climate that would charm a misanthrope, why should they not become +the favorite resorts on the Great West Coast? These facts led to the +building of the magnificent Hotel Tacoma, at a cost of a quarter of a +million dollars. Other such caravansaries will follow, and in time Puget +Sound will be famous the world over for its incomparable attractions for +the health and pleasure seeker. + +The average traveler has but a faint idea of the wonderful resources of +this grand empire. Puget Sound has about 1,800 miles of shore line, and +all along this long stretch is one vast and almost unbroken forest of +enormous trees. The forests are so vast that, although the saw-mills have +been ripping 500,000,000 feet of lumber out of them every year for the +past ten years, the spaces made by these inroads seem no more than garden +patches. An official estimate places the amount of standing timber in that +area at 500,000,000,000 feet, or a thousand years' supply, even at the +enormous rate the timber is now being felled and sawed. + +In the vicinity of Olympia, the capital of Washington, are a number of +popular resorts for sportsmen and campers--beautiful lakes filled with +voracious trout, and streams alive with the speckled mountain beauties. +The forests abound in bear and deer, while grouse, pheasants, quail, and +water-fowl afford fine sport to the hunter of small game. + +THE NEW EMPIRE OF EASTERN WASHINGTON. + +The recent extensions of the Union Pacific System have aided in the most +important way the development of the richest and most fertile lands of +Eastern Washington. The great plains of the Upper Columbia, stretching +from the river away to the far north, are incomparably rich, the soil of +great depth and wondrous fertility, rainless harvests, and a luxuriance +of farm and garden produce which is almost tropical in its wealth. This +favored region has been for years known as the + +PALOUSE COUNTRY, + +And is reached from Portland via Pendleton, on the main line of the Union +Pacific Ry. From Pendleton to Spokane Falls on the north the soil is rich +beyond belief; a black, loamy deposit so deep that it seems well-nigh +inexhaustible. This heavy soil predominates in the valleys, and while the +uplands are not so rich, still immense crops of wheat are raised. For +hundreds of miles on this new division of the Union Pacific the country +is a perfect garden land of wheat and fruit, and these farms are often of +mammoth proportions. Here are 13,000,000 acres of land possessing all the +requirements and advantages of climate and soil for the making of one +vast wheat-field. The enormous yield of 7,000,000 bushels of wheat has +been harvested in one valley. + +The authentic figures of the crop yield in this splendid country seem +almost incredible. Fifty thousand bushels of wheat have been raised on +1,000 acres of land. As low as 35 bushels and as high as 74-1/4 bushels +of wheat to the acre have been harvested in this section. The average +covered seems to be from 47 to 55 bushels per acre, and no fertilizers +of any sort being required. The berry in its full maturity is very +solid, weighing from 65 to 69 pounds per bushel, this being from five +to nine pounds over standard weight. While wheat is the staple product, +oats are also grown, the yield being very heavy. Rye, barley, and flax +are also successfully cultivated. Clover, bunch-grass, and alfalfa grow +finely. + +In the growing of fruits and vegetables this grand empire of Eastern +Washington is quite unsurpassed. At one of the recent agricultural +fairs a farmer exhibited 109 varieties of fruits, vegetables, and +cereals. These included the best qualities of Yellow Nansemond sweet +potatoes, mammoth melons of all varieties, eggplant, sorghum and syrup +cane, broom-corn, tobacco, grapes, cotton, peanuts, and many other +things, some of which do not attain to so high a degree of excellence +elsewhere farther north than the Carolinas. Peaches, apples, and prunes +of superior quality delighted the eye. Peaches had been marketed +continuously, from, the same orchards, from the 15th of July to the +15th of October. There were hanging in the pavilion diplomas awarded at +the New Orleans Exposition to citizens in this valley for exhibits of +the best qualities and greatest varieties of corn, wheat, oats, barley, +and hops. + +The advantage to the farmer of rainless harvesting months is obvious. The +wheat is all harvested by headers, leaving the straw on the ground for its +enrichment. Thus binding, hauling, and sacking are largely dispensed with. +The grain, when threshed, is piled on the ground in jute sacks, saving the +expense of granaries and hauling to and from them. These jute sacks cost +for each bushel of grain about 3 cents, which is far less than farmers +elsewhere are subjected to in hauling their grain to and from granaries +and through a system of elevators until it reaches shipboard. + +Here, as well as in Western Washington, most vegetables grow to an +enormous size, and are of superior quality when compared with the same +varieties grown in the East. Those kinds that require much heat, as +melons, tobacco, peppers, egg-plants, etc., grow to great perfection. The +root crops--beets, carrots, parsnips, potatoes, turnips, etc.--yield +prodigiously on the fertile bottom-land soils, without much care besides +ordinary cultivation. The table beet soon gets too large for the +dinner-pot. It is nothing unusual for a garden beet to weigh ten pounds, +and they often grow to eighteen or twenty pounds' weight. Mangel wurzel, +the stock beet, sometimes grows to forty and fifty pounds' weight, if +given room and proper cultivation. They may easily be made to produce +twenty-five tons per acre on good soil. All other vegetables, such as +parsnips, carrots, peas, beans, tomatoes, onions, cabbages, celery, and +cauliflower, are perfectly at home on every farm of Eastern Washington. +Market gardening is becoming quite an important pursuit, and holds out +particularly high inducements to the farmer, because of the superb market +now afforded by the non-producing mineral and timber regions, easily +accessible in this and adjacent Territories. + +There are over 2,000 square miles of arable land in this magnificent +region, and there has never been a crop failure since its settlement. +Outside of Government lands prices range at from $4 to $10 per acre for +unimproved, and from $12 to $20 for improved lands. + +[Illustration: HORSE TAIL FALLS, ORE. +On the Union Pacific Ry.] + +Along the line of Union Pacific in this grand new empire will be found +many energetic, thriving young towns, all possessing those social and +educational facilities which are now a part of every Western village. +Pendleton, on the main line, is a wide-awake, bustling young city, +situated in a fine agricultural district. Walla Walla, Athena, Weston, +Waitsburg, Dayton, Pullman, Garfield, Latah, Tekoa, Colfax, Moscow, +Farmington, and Rockford are all thriving towns, and are already good +distributing centers. The last-named town enjoys the advantage of being +in the center of a fine lumber district, and within a circuit of five +miles from Rockford there are ten saw-mills, besides an inexhaustible +supply of mica. Crossing the border into Idaho, rich silver and lead +mines are found along the Coeur d'Alene River. + +Rockford is twenty-four miles from Spokane Falls, and has about 1,000 +population; its elevation is 2,440 feet. Four miles distant is the +boundary of the Coeur d'Alene Reservation, a lovely tract, thirty by +seventy miles in extent, embracing beautiful Coeur d'Alene Lake and the +three rivers, St. Joseph, St. Marys, and Coeur d'Alene, which empty +into it. There about 250 Indians on this reservation, and they enjoy +the proud distinction of being the only tribe who refuse Government +aid. They have been offered the usual rations, but preferred to remain +independent. They live in houses, farm quite extensively, and use all +kinds of improved farm machinery; many of them are quite wealthy. The +lake is one of the prettiest sheets of water on the continent; its +waters are full of salmon, and in the heavy pine woods are many +varieties of game, from quail to grizzly bear and elk. The town of +Rockford will in the near future assume importance as a tourist point, +both from its own healthy and picturesque location, and its nearness to +Coeur d'Alene Lake. A Government Commission is now at work on a +settlement with the Indians, whereby the whole or a part of this noble +domain will be thrown open to the public. The peculiar attractions of +Coeur d'Alene must in a short time render it a much sought for resort. + +SPOKANE FALLS + +Is one of those miracles possible only in the alert, aggressive West. +When Mr. Hayes was inaugurated it was a blank wilderness. Not a single +civilized being lived within a hundred miles of it. One day in 1878 a +white man came along in a "bull team," saw the wild rapids and the mighty +falls of the Spokane River, reflected on the history of St. Paul and +Minneapolis with their little Falls of St. Anthony, looked at the tide of +immigration just turning toward the farther Northwest, and concluded he +would sit right down where he was and wait for a city to grow around him. +This far-sighted pioneer is still living within earshot of those rumbling +falls, and they make a cheerful music for him. The city is there with +him, 22,000 people, and he can draw a check to-day good for $1,000,000. +For several years his eyes fell on nothing but gravel-beds and foamy +waters. Now, as he looks around, he sees mills and factories, railroad +lines to the north, south, east, and west, churches, theatres, +school-houses, costly dwellings and stores, paved streets, and all that +makes living easy and comfortable. The greater part of this has come +within his vision since 1883. But even then there was quite a village. +After this pioneer had spent a lonely year or two on his homestead, two +other men came along. They were friends, who, upon an outing, had chanced +to meet. They were captivated by the waterfall, and by what the pioneer +told them of the fine fanning lands in the adjacent country, and they +offered each to take a third of his holding. Then they began to +advertise, and to place adventurous farmers on homestead claims. They +were wise in their day and generation, and they worked harder to fill the +country with grain-producers than to sell real estate around the falls. +They soon had their reward. The merchants were quickly provided with +store-houses, rental values were kept low, every inducement was offered +that could possibly stimulate building activity, and in three years the +farming country was made to perceive that Spokane was its natural point +of entry and of shipment. The turbulent waters of the Spokane River, a +clear and beautiful mountain stream, were caught above the falls, and +directed wherever the factories and mills that had been established above +them required their services. Four large flouring-mills quickly took +advantage of the rich opportunity growing out of this unique situation. +From two enormous agricultural areas they are enabled to draw their +supplies of grain, flour, therefore, being manufactured for the farmers +more cheaply at Spokane: than anywhere else. This circumstance alone +exercised a large influence in giving the new town a hold upon the +country districts. These constitute more than a region--they are really a +grand division of the State, and form what is known as the Great Plain of +the Columbia River. + +THE COEUR D'ALENE MINES + +Have reached a high and profitable state of development. These mines +extend over a comparatively limited area. They are close together, and +their ores, producing gold, silver, and lead, are all similar. Their +output for the last three years has been quite remarkable, and has placed +the Coeur d'Alene district among the foremost lead-producing regions in +the country. Gold, associated with iron, and treated by the free-milling +process, is largely found in the northern part of the district, but the +greatest amount of tonnage is derived from the southern country, where +the Galena silver mines, a dozen or more in number, have been discovered. +That minerals in large quantity existed in this country has been known for +years. But the want of railroad facilities for a long while prevented any +serious effort to get at them. The matter of transportation is now laid +at rest, and within the last three years $1,000,000 has been spent in +development. The returns have already more than justified the investment. + +Tributary to Spokane, and reached by the various railroads now in +operation, are five other mining districts, at Colville, Okanagan, +Kootenai, Metaline, and Pend d'Oreille. They are in various stages of +development, but their wealth and availability have been clearly +ascertained. Spokane's population, in a degree greater than that of most +all these new cities, consists of young men and young women from the New +England and Middle States. They have enjoyed a remarkable and wholly +uninterrupted period of prosperity. Some of them have grown quickly and +immensely rich from real estate operations, but the great majority have +yet to realize on their investments because of the large sacrifices they +have made in building up the city. They are to-day in an admirable +position. As they have made money they have spent it; spent it in street +railroads, in the laying out of drives, in the building of comfortable +houses, in the establishment of electrical plants, and in a large number +of local improvements, every one of which has borne its part in making +the city attractive. + +WONDERFUL VITALITY. + +It has been well said of Spokane Falls, that "it was another +fire-devastated city that did not seem to know it was hurt." + +If Washington can stand the loss of millions of dollars in its four great +fires of the year, at Cheney, Ellensburg, Seattle, and Spokane, it is the +strongest evidence that its recuperative powers have solid backing. It +does seem to stand the loss, and actually thrive under it. + +The great fire at Spokane Falls on the 4th of August, 1889, burned most +of the business portion of the city. Four hundred and fifty houses of +brick, stone, and wood were destroyed, entailing a loss, according to the +computation of the local agent of R.G. Dun & Co., of about $4,500,000. + +The insurance in the burned district amounted to $2,600,000. + +No people were ever in better condition to meet disaster, and none ever +met it with braver hearts or with quicker and more resolute determination +to survive the blow. + +The city was in the midst of a period of marvelous prosperity. Its +population was increasing rapidly, many fine buildings were in process of +construction, its trade was extending over a vast region of country which +was being penetrated by new railroads centering within its limits, and +there were flowing to it the rich fruits of half a dozen prosperous +mining districts. + +[Illustration: ONEONTA GORGE, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +Its working people were all employed at good wages, and money was +abundant with all classes. + +Hardly had the sun of the day following the fire risen upon the scene of +smoking desolation, when preparations began for rebuilding. It was felt +at once that the city would be rebuilt more substantially and more +handsomely than before. + +The rebuilding of Spokane commenced on a very extensive scale; the city +will be entirely restored within twelve months, and far more attractively +than ever before. The class of buildings erected are of a very superior +character. The new Opera House has been modeled after the Broadway +Theatre, New York; the new Hotel Spokane, a structure creditable not only +to the city, but to the entire Pacific Northwest; five National Bank +buildings, at a cost of $100,000 each; upon the burned district have +arisen buildings solid in substance, and beautiful architecturally, +varying from five to seven stories in height, and costing all the way +from $60,000 to $300,000. This sturdy young giant of the North arises +from her ashes stronger, more attractive, more substantial, than before. +And there is abundant reason for solid faith in the future of Spokane +Falls. + +It is the metropolis of a region 200,000 square miles in extent, +including 50,000 square miles of Washington, or all that portion east of +the Cascade Mountains, more than half of Idaho, the northern and eastern +portions of Oregon, a large part of Montana, and as much of British +Columbia as would make a State as large as New York. + +It is the distributing point for the Coeur d'Alene, the Colville, the +Kootenai, and the Okanagan mining districts, all of which are in a +prosperous condition, and all of which are yielding rich and growing +tributes of trade. + +It has adjacent to it the finest wheat-growing country in the world, +producing from 30 to 60 bushels per acre. + +It has adjacent to it a country equally rich in the production of fruits +and vegetables. + +It has adjacent to it the finest meadow lands between the Cascade and +Rocky Mountains. + +It has adjacent to it extensive grazing lands, on which are hundreds of +thousands of cattle, sheep, and horses. + +It has, adjacent to it, on Lakes Pend d'Oreille and Coeur d'Alene, +inexhaustible quantities of white pine, yellow pine, cedar and tamarack, +the manufacturing of which into lumber is one of the important industries +of the city, and a source of great future income. + +It has a power in the falls of the Spokane River second to none in the +United States, and capable of supplying construction room and power for +300 different mills and manufactories. The entire electric lighting plant +of the city, the cable railway system, the electric railway system, the +machinery for the city water works, and all the mills and factories of +the city--the amount of wheat which was last year ground into flour +exceeding 20,000 tons--are now operated by the power from the falls. One +company alone, the Washington Water Power Company, having a capital of +$1,000,000, is now spending upward of $300,000 in the construction of +flumes and other improvements for the accommodation of new mills and +factories. + +Most fortunately for the city, all the milling properties and +improvements on the falls and along the river were saved from the fire. + +The city has a water-works system which cost nearly half a million +dollars, and which is capable of supplying 12,000,000 gallons daily, or +as much as the supply of Minneapolis when it had a population of 100,000, +or as much as the present supply of Denver with a population of 120,000, +and more than the City of Portland, Oregon, with a population of 60,000. + +A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SPOKANE FALLS. + +It requires no very profound knowledge of Western geography, no very +lengthy study of the State of Washington, to enable anyone to understand +without difficulty some of the minor reasons why Spokane Falls should +become a great and important city, the metropolis of a vast surrounding +country. A glance at the map will show the mountain range that extends up +through the Idaho Panhandle, and then along the British Columbia frontier, +to the east and north of the city. These mountains are incalculably rich +in ores of all kinds, and would amply suffice to make a Denver of Spokane +Falls, even if she had no other natural resources to draw from. The +Spokane River is the outlet of Lake Coeur d'Alene, a sheet of water sixty +miles by six, which is fed by the St. Joseph, St. Mary and Coeur d'Alene +Rivers, and which flows through a vast plain until it empties its waters +into the Columbia, the Mississippi of the Pacific Coast. From its point +of junction with the Spokane, the Columbia makes a big bend in its course +until the Snake River is reached, when it turns once more westward, and +flows on to empty into the Pacific Ocean. South of the city, stretching +westward for some distance from the mountains, and extending in a +southerly direction to the Clearwater and Snake Rivers, is a vast country +comprising millions of acres, through which the Palouse River and its +tributary streams meander, and which is known as the Palouse Valley, a +country of unlimited agricultural resources. In the center of all this +immense territory is located Spokane Falls, like the hub in the center of +a wheel. The word immense is not used unwittingly, for the mountains and +plains and valleys make up a country that in Europe would be called a +nation, and in New England would form a State. Only a far-off corner of +the Union, it may seem to some readers, yet there are powerful empires +which possess less natural resources than it can call its own. The city +itself lies on both sides of the Spokane River, at the point where that +stream, separated by rocky islands into five separate channels, rushes +onward and downward, at first being merely a series of rapids, and then +tumbling over the rocks in a number of beautiful and useful waterfalls, +until the several streams unite once again for a final plunge of sixty +feet, making a fall of 157 feet in the distance of half a mile. This +waterfall, with its immense power, would alone make a city; engineers +have estimated its force at 90,000 horse-power, and it is so distributed +that it can be easily utilized. + +[Illustration: A FISH WHEEL, COLUMBIA RIVER. On the Union Pacific Ry.] + + * * * * * + +_Fourth Tour_.--To + +ALASKA. + +The native islanders called the mainland "Al-ay-ek-sa," which signifies +"great country," and the word has been corrupted into "Alaska." This +immense empire, it will be remembered, was sold by Russia to the United +States October 18, 1867, for $7,500,000. The country was discovered by +Vitus Behring in 1741. Alaska has an area of 578,000 square miles, and is +nearly one-fifth as large as all the other States and Territories +combined. It is larger than twelve States the size of New York. + +The best time to visit Alaska is from May to September. The latter month +is usually lovely, and the sea beautifully smooth, but the days begin to +grow short. The trip occupies about twenty-five days. + +As the rainfall in Alaska is usually very large, it naturally follows +that an umbrella is a convenient companion. A gossamer for a lady and a +mackintosh for a gentleman, and heavy shoes, and coarse, warm and +comfortable clothing for both should be provided. + +There are no "Palace" hotels in Alaska. One will have no desire to remain +over there a trip. The tourist goes necessarily when and where the steamer +goes, will have an opportunity to see all there is of note or worth seeing +in Southeastern Alaska. The steamer sometimes goes north as far as +Chilcat, say up to about the 58th degree of north latitude. The pleasure +is not so much in the stopping as in the going. One is constantly passing +through new channels, past new islands, opening up new points of interest, +until finally a surfeit of the grand and magnificent in nature is reached. + +A correspondent of a western journal signing himself "Emerald" has +written a description of this Alaskan tour in September, 1888. It is so +charmingly done, so fresh, so vivid, and so full of interesting detail, +that it is given herewith entire: + +ON STEAMSHIP "GEORGE W. ELDER," + +PUGET SOUND, September, 1888. + +We have all thought we were fairly appreciative of the wealth and wonders +of Uncle Sam's domain. At Niagara we have gloried in the belief that all +the cataracts of other lands were tame; but we changed our mind when we +stood on the brink of Great Shoshone Falls. In Yellowstone the proudest +thought was that all the world's other similar wonders were commonplace; +and at Yosemite's Inspiration Point the unspeakable thrill of awe and +delight was richly heightened by the grand idea that there was no such +majesty or glory beyond either sea. But after all this, we now know that +it yet remains for the Alaskan trip to rightly round out one's +appreciation and admiration of the size and grandeur of our native land. + +Some of our most delighted _voyageurs_ are from Portland, Maine. When +they had journeyed some 1,500 miles to Omaha they imagined themselves +at least half way across our continent. Then, when they had finished +that magnificent stretch of some 1,700 miles more from Omaha to +Portland, Oregon, in the palace cars of the Union Pacific, they were +quite sure of it. Of course, they confessed a sense of mingled +disappointment and eager anticipation when they learned that they were +yet less than half way. They learned what is a fact--that the extreme +west coast of Alaska is as far west of Sitka as Portland, Maine, is +east of Portland, Oregon, and the further fact that San Francisco lacks +4,000 mile's of being as far west as Uncle Sam's "Land's End," at +extreme Western Alaska. It is a great country; great enough to contain +one river--the Yukon--about as large as the Mississippi, and a coast +line about twice as long as all the balance of the United States. It is +twelve times as large as the State of New York, with resources that +astonish every visitor, and a climate not altogether bad, as some would +have it. The greatest trouble is that during the eighteen years it has +been linked to our chain of Territories it has been treated like a +discarded offspring or outcast, cared for more by others than its +lawful protector. But, like many a refugee, it is carving for itself a +place which others will yet envy. But, to + +OUR TRIP. + +There are seven in our party, mainly from Chicago. After a week of +delightful mountaineering at Idaho Springs, in Platte Cañon, and other +Union Pacific resorts in Colorado, we indulged in that delicious plunge +at Garfield Beach, Salt Lake, and, en route to Portland over the Union +Pacific Ry., quaffed that all but nectar at Soda Springs, Idaho, and +dropped off a day to take a peep, at Shoshone Falls, which, in all +seriousness, have attractions of which even our great Niagara can not +boast. We found that glorious dash down through the palisades of the +Columbia, and the sail, through the entrancing waterways of Puget Sound, +a fitting prelude to our recent Alaskan journey. + +The Alaskan voyage is like a continuous dream of pleasure, so placid and +quiet are the waters of the landlocked sea and so exquisitely beautiful +the environment. The route keeps along the east shore of Vancouver Island +its entire length, through the Gulf of Georgia, Johnstone strait, and out +into Queen Charlotte Sound, where is felt the first swell of old ocean, +and our staunch steamship "Elder" was rocked in its cradle for about four +hours. Oftentimes we seemed to be bound by mountains on every side, with +no hope of escape; but the faithful deck officer on watch would give his +orders in clear, full tones that brought the bow to some passage leading +to the great beyond. In narrow straits the steamer had to wait for the +tide; then would she weave in and out, like a shuttle in a loom, among +the buoys, leaving the black ones on the left and the red ones on the +right, and ever and anon they would be in a straight line, with the +wicked boulder-heads visible beneath the surface or lifting their savage +points above, compelling almost a square corner to be turned in order to +avoid them. At such times the passengers were all on deck, listening to +the captain's commands, and watching the boat obey his bidding. + +From Victoria to Tongas Narrows the distance is 638 miles, and here was +the first stop for the tourists. The event here was going ashore in +rowboats, and in the rain, only to see a few dirty Indians--a foresight +of what was to follow--and a salmon-packing house not yet in working +order. + +From Tongas Narrows to Fort Wrangel, thousands of islands fill the water, +while the mainland is on the right and Prince of Wales Island on the +extreme left. + +FORT WRANGEL. + +Like all Alaska towns, it is situated at the base of lofty peaks along +the water's edge at the head of moderately pretty harbors. It seems to be +the generic home of storms, and the mountains, the rocks, the buildings, +and trees, and all, show the weird workings of nature's wrath. In 1863 it +was a thriving town where miners outfitted for the mines of the Stikeen +river and Cassian mines of British Columbia; but that excitement has +temporarily subsided, and the $150,000 government buildings are falling +in decay. The streets are filled with debris, and everything betokens the +ravages of time. The largest and most grotesque totem poles seen on the +trip here towered a height of fifty feet. Those poles represent a history +of the family and the ancestry as far as they can trace it. If they are of +the Wolf tribe a huge wolf is carved at the top of the pole, and then on +down with various signs to the base, the great events of the family and +the intermarriages, not forgetting to give place to the good and bad gods +who assisted them. The genealogy of a tribe is always traced back through +the mother's side. The totem poles are sometimes very large, perhaps four +feet at the base. When the carving is completed they are planted firmly in +front of the hut, there to stay until they fall away. At the lower end, +some four feet from the ground, there is an opening into the already +hollowed pole, and in this are put the bones of the burned bodies of the +family. It is only the wealthier families who support a totem pole, and +no amount of money can induce an Indian to part with his family tree. + +[Illustration: SITKA HARBOR, ALASKA. +Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +THE GRAVES + +of those not having totems are found in clusters, or scattered on the +mountain sides, or anywhere convenience dictates. The bones are put in a +box with all the belongings of the deceased, and then deposited anywhere. +The natives are exceedingly superstitious and jealous in their care of the +dead, and would sooner die than molest or steal from a grave. That +tourists who are supposed to be civilized, refined, and Christianized +should steal from them is a crime which should never be tolerated, as it +was among the passengers of our steamer. + +The natives have a belief that all bodies cremated turn into ravens, and +that probably accounts to them for the endless number of those birds in +Alaska. Ravens are sacred birds to them, and are never molested in +anyway. There are other methods of disposing of the dead in different +parts of Alaska. The bones are sometimes put in a canoe and raised high +in the air on straddles; again, in trees above the reach of prowling +animals, or set adrift in a discarded canoe. + +JUNEAU--THE TREADWELL MINE. + +After leaving Wrangel the steamer anchored off Salmon Bay to lighter +eighty tons of salt for fishermen, then on to Juneau and Douglas Islands. +Here was the same general appearance of location, the gigantic background +of densely wooded mountains, the tide-washed streets, on broken slopes, +the dirty native women with their wares for sale, with prices advanced +200 per cent, since the steamer whistled, and behind them their stern +male companions, goading them on to make their sales, and stealthily +kicking them in their crouched positions if they came down on their +prices to an eager but economical tourist. + +Juneau is the only town of any importance on the mainland. It has arisen +to that dignity through the quality of its mines, and it is now the +mining centre of Alaska. Here we found Edward I. Parsons, of San +Francisco, erecting an endless-rope tramway for conducting ores to a +ten-stamp mill now under construction. Mr. Parsons has had large +experience in this line, and his tales of "Tramway Life" in Mexico are +intensely thrilling and full of interest. It is to be hoped that the good +people of Juneau will see to it that he does not have to eat the native +dishes, as he did in the land of the greasers. The festive dog is all +right in his place, but rather revolting to an epicure. + +The famous Treadwell gold mine lies across the bay, on Douglas Island. It +is noted, not so much for its richness per ton, but for its vast extent. +The 120-stamp mill makes such a deafening noise that there is no fear +that the curious minded will cause employés to waste any time answering +questions, for nothing can be heard but the rise and fall of the great +crushers and the crunching of the ores. The ore is so plentiful that an +addition of 120 stamps is being added to the present capacity. The hole +blasted by the miners looks like the crater of a huge volcano without the +circling top, and sloping down to an apex from which is the tunnel to the +mill. The Treadwell yields about $200,000 per month, and will double that +when the mill is completed. + +There are many pleasant homes in Juneau, and some of its society people +are charming indeed. The business houses carry some large stocks of +goods, and outfitting for the interior mines in the Yukon country is all +done at this place. There are two weekly papers, one the _Mining Record_, +an eight-page, bright, newsy paper which deserves a liberal support. + +One of the most novel and grotesque features of the entire trip was a +dance given by the Indians at + +A "POTLATCH," + +a term applied to any assemblage of good cheer, although in its primary +sense it means a gift. A potlatch is given at the outset, or during the +progress of some important event, such as the building of a new house, +confirming of a sub-chief, or celebrating any good fortune, either of +peace or war. In this instance, a sub-chief was building a new house, and +the frame work was inclosed in rough boards with no floor laid. There is +never but one entrance to an Indian hut. This is in front, and elevated +several feet from the ground, so that you must go down from the door-sill +inside as well as out. No windows were yet in the building, and it was +really in a crude state. These grand festivities last five days, and this +was the second day of merry-making. + +There are two tribes at Juneau, located at each extreme of the town. The +water was black with canoes coming to the feast and dance, bringing gifts +to the tyhee, who, in return, gives them gifts according to their wealth, +and a feast of boiled rice and raisins and dog-meat. The richest men of +the tribe dressed, in the rear of the building, in the wildest and most +fantastic garbs, some in skins of wild animals. There was a full panoply +of blankets, feathers, guns, swords, knives, and, as a last resort, an +old broom was covered with a scarlet case. Jingling pendant horns added +to their usual order, and the savage faces were painted with red and +black in hideous lines. Anything their minds could shape was rigged for a +head-dress, and finally, when all was ready, they ran with fiendish yells +toward the beach, some twenty yards, and there behind a canvas facing the +water they began their strange dance. + +Only one squaw was with them, and she was the wife of the tyhee (chief) +giving the feast. The medicine man had a large bird with white breast, +called the loon. While dancing he picked the white feathers and scattered +them on the heads of the others. The other squaws were sitting on the +ground in long rows in front of the canoes reaching to the water's edge, +about 200 feet below. + +Their music was a wild shout or croon by all the tribe, and the dancing +is a movement in any irregular way, or a swaying motion given to the time +given by the voices, and they only advanced a few inches in an hour's +time. + +The tribe approaching in canoes had their representative men dressed in +the same styles, only gayer, if possible. When the canoes glided onto the +beach, four abreast, it was the signal to drop the canvas hiding the host +and party, and advance a little distance to meet them. Then they broke +ranks and made way for the visitors to approach the house with their +gifts of blankets or other valuables for the tyhee. Most of the Indians +convert their riches into blankets. These nations, seen by the tourist in +an ordinary trip to Alaska, seem very much the same in all points visited. +None of them are poor, all have some money, and many have + +WEALTH COUNTED BY THOUSANDS. + +To be sure, some of them are in a measure Christianized, but the odors +arising from the homes of the best of them are such as a civilized nose +never scented before. Rancid grease, dried fish, pelts, decaying animals, +and human filth made the strongest perfume known to the commercial or +social world. + +[Illustration: GRANVILLE CHANNEL, ALASKA. Reached via the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +The squaws, if they were in mourning or in love, would have their faces +painted black with oil and tar. Then again, a great many wear a wooden or +ivory pin thrust through the lip just below the fleshy part. It is worn +for ornament, the same as ear-rings or nose-rings, and is called a +labret. The missionary work done among them is a commendable one, but it +seems a hopeless task. Their houses are always built with one object in +view, to be able to tie the canoe to the front door. A long row of huts +just above high-tide line can always be safely called a rancherie in that +country. Their food is brought by the tide to their very doors, and the +timbered mountains abound in wild game, and offer ample fuel for the +cutting. + +Chilcot, or Pyramid Harbor, is about twelve hours run from Juneau, and it +is here the famous Chilcot blanket is made from the goat's wool, woven by +hand, and dyed by native dyes, and worked from grotesque patterns. Here, +also, are two of the largest salmon canneries in Alaska, and here, +indeed, were we in the + +LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. + +The hours passed quickly by as the supposed night wore away. At midnight +the twilight was so bright that one could read a newspaper easily. Then +the moon shone in the clear sky with all regal splendor until 3.30 in the +morning, when old Sol again put in his claims for admission. He lifted his +golden head above the snowy peaks, and spirited away the uncertain light +of unfolding dawn by drawing the curtains of the purpling east, and +sending floods of radiance upon the entire world. It was a sight never to +be forgotten, if seen but once in a lifetime. + +Onward once again when the tide was in, and our next awakening was on the +grand glacier fields. The greatest sight of the entire trip, or of any +other in America, now opened out before many eager eyes. For several +days, icebergs had been seen sailing along on the smooth surface from the +great glaciers, and speeding to the southern seas like phantom ships. As +the ship neared the bay, these huge bergs increased in size and number, +with such grotesque and weird shapes, that the mind is absorbed in +shaping turrets, ghosts, goblins, and the like, each moment developing +more and more of things unearthly, until the heart and eyes seem bursting +with the strain, when suddenly a great roar, like the shock of an +explosion of giant powder, turns the eyes to the parent glacier to see +the birth of these unnatural forms. They break from the icy wall with a +stupendous crash, and fall into the water with such force as to send our +great ship careening on her side when the swell from the disturbed waters +strikes her. + +The Muir glacier is the one that occupies the most attention, as it is +the most accessible to tourists. It rises to a perpendicular height of +350 feet, and stretches across the entire head of the Glacier Bay, which +is estimated from three to five miles in width. The Muir and Davidson +glaciers are two arms of that great Ice field extending more than 400 +miles in length, covering more area + +THAN ALL SWITZERLAND, + +and any one of the fifteen subdivisions of the glacial stream is as large +as the Great Rhone glacier. + +Underlying this great ice field is that glacial river which bears these +mountains of ice on its bosom to the ocean. With a roar like distant +artillery, or an approaching thunder-storm, the advancing walls of this +great monster split and fall into the watery deep, which has been sounded +to a depth of some 800 feet without finding anchor. + +The glacial wall is a rugged, uneven mass, with clefts and crevices, +towering pinnacles and domes, higher than Bunker Hill monument, cutting +the air at all angles, and with a stupendous crash sections break off +from any portion without warning and sink far out of sight. Scarcely two +minutes elapse without a portion falling from some quarter. The marble +whiteness of the face is relieved by lines of intense blue, a +characteristic peculiar to the small portions as well as the great. + +Going ashore in little rowboats, the vast area along the sandy beach was +first explored, and it was, indeed, like a fairy land. There were acres +of grottoes, whose honey-combed walls were most delicately carved by the +soft winds and the sunlight reflections around and in the arches of ice, +such as are never seen except in water, ice, and sky. + +MOUNTAINS OF ICE, + +remnants of glaciers, along the beach, stood poised on one point, or +perchance on two points, and arched between. These icebergs were dotted +with stones imbedded; great bowls were melted out and filled with water, +and little cups made of ice would afford you a drink of fresh water on +the shore of this salt sea. + +At five o'clock in the morning, with the sun kissing the cold majestic +glacier into a glad awakening from its icy sleep, the ascent was begun. +Too eager to be among the first to see the top, many started without +breakfast, while others chose the wiser part, and waited to be physically +fortified. + +The ascent is not so difficult as it is dangerous. There is no trail and +no guide, and many a step had to be retraced to get across or around some +bottomless fissure. For some distance the ground seemed quite solid. Soon +it was discovered that there was but a thin covering of dirt on the solid +ice below; but anon in striking the ground with the end of an alpine stick +it would prove to be but an inch of ice and dirt mixed, and a dark abyss +below which we could not fathom. It is to be hoped, for the good of +future tourists, that there are not many such places, or that they may +soon be exposed so they can be avoided. Reaching the top after a tedious +and slippery climb, there was a long view of icy billows, as if the sea +had suddenly congealed amid a wild tempestuous storm. Deep chasms +obstructed the way on all sides, and a misstep or slip would send one +down the blue steps where no friendly rope could rescue, and only the +rushing water could be heard. To view the solid phalanxes of icy floes, +as they fill the mountain fastnesses and imperceptibly march through the +ravines and force their way to the sea, fills one with awe indescribable. +The knowledge that the ice is moving from beneath one's feet thrills one +with a curious sensation hard to portray. + +Below, it seems like the constant wooing of the sea that wins the +offering from this wealth of purity, instead of the voluntary act of this +giant of the Arctic zone. + +For twenty-four hours the awful grandeur of these scenes was gloried in, +when Captain Hunter gave the order to draw the anchor and steam away. The +whistles call the passengers back to the steamer, where they were soon +comparing specimens, viewing instantaneous photographs, hiding bedraggled +clothing, casting away tattered mufflers, and telling of hair-breadth +escapes from peril and death. Many a tired head sought an early pillow, +and floated away in dreams of ghoulish icebergs, until the call for +breakfast disclosed to opening eyes that the boat was anchored in the + +BEAUTIFUL HARBOR OF SITKA. + +The steamer's whistle is the signal for a holiday in all Alaska ports, +and Sitka is no exception to the rule. Six o'clock in the morning, but +the sleepy town had awakened to the fact of our arrival, and the +inhabitants were out in force to greet friends or sell their canoes. +There are some 1,500 people living in Sitka, including all races. The +harbor is the most beautiful a fertile brain can imagine. Exquisitely +moulded islands are scattered about in the most enchanting way, all +shapes and sizes, with now and then a little garden patch, and ever +verdant with native woods and grasses and charming rockeries. As far out +as the eye can reach the beautiful isles break the cold sea into +bewitching inlets and lure the mariner to shelter from evil outside waves. + +The village nestles between giant mountains on a lowland curve surrounded +by verdure too dense to be penetrated with the eye, and too far to try to +walk--which is a good excuse for tired feet. The first prominent feature +to meet the eye on land is a large square house, two stories high, +located on a rocky eminence near the shore, and overlooking the entire +town and harbor. Once it was a model dwelling of much pretension, with +its spacious apartments, hard-wood six-inch plank floors, +elaborately-carved decorations, stained-glass windows, and its amusement +and refreshment halls. All betoken the former elegance of the Russian +governor's home, which was supported with such pride and magnificence as +will never be seen there again. The walls are crumbling, the windows +broken, and the old oaken stairways will soon be sinking to earth again, +and its only life will be on the page of history. + +[Illustration: DEVIL'S THUMB, ALASKA. +Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +The mission-school hospital, chapel, and architectural buildings occupied +much of the tourists' time, and some were deeply interested. There are +eighteen missionaries in Sitka, under the Presbyterian jurisdiction, +trying to educate and Christianize the Indians. They are doing a noble +work, but it does seem a hopeless task when one goes among the Indian +homes, sees the filth, smells the vile odors, and studies the native +habits. + +These Indians, like the other tribes, are not poor, but all have more or +less money. + +MANY ARE RICH, + +having more than $20,000 in good hard cash, yet the squalor in which they +live would indicate the direst poverty. + +The stroll to Indian river, from which the town gets its water supply, is +bewitching. The walk is made about six feet through an evergreen forest, +the trees arching overhead, for a distance of two miles, and is close to +the bay, and following the curve in a most picturesque circle. The water +is carried in buckets loaded on carts and wheeled by hand, for horses are +almost unknown in Alaska. There are probably not more than half a dozen +horses and mules in all Alaska--not so much because of the expense of +transportation and board, as lack of roads and the long, dark days and +months of winter, when people do not go out but very little. All the +packing is done in all sections of Alaska by natives carrying the packs +and supplies on their backs. + +Sitka's most interesting object is the old Greek church, located in the +middle of the town, and also in the middle of the street. Its form is +that of a Greek cross, with a copper-covered dome, surmounted by a +chime-bell tower. The inside glitters with gold and rare paintings, gold +embroidered altar cloths and robes; quaint candelabra of solid silver are +suspended in many nooks, and an air of sacred quiet pervades the whole +building. There were no seats, for the Russians remain standing during +the worship. Service is held every Sabbath by a Russian priest in his +native language, and the church is still supported by the Russian +Government. Indeed, Russia does more for the advancement of religion than +does our own Government for Alaska. + +The walk through the Indian ranch was but a repetition of the other +towns, only that they were wealthier and uglier, if possible, than the +other tribes. The Hydahs are very powerfully built, tall, large boned, +and stout. + +Two days were spent in visiting and trafficking with these people. Then +the anchor came up, and soon a silver trail like a huge sea serpent moved +among the green isles, and followed us once more--now on the homeward +sail. + +But one new place of importance was made on the home trip, and that was at + +KILLISNOO. + +When the steamer arrived, the evening after leaving Sitka, the city +policeman met us at the wharf and invited us to visit his hut. Of course, +he was a native, who expected to sell some curios. Over his door was the +following: + + "By the Governor's commission, + And the company's permission, + I am made the grand tyhee + Of this entire illahee. + + "Prominent in song and story, + I've attained the top of glory. + As Saginaw I am known to fame, + Jake is but my common name." + +The time when he attained his fame and glory must have been when he and +his wife were both drunk one night, and he put the handcuffs on his wife +and could not get them off, and she had to go to Sitka to be released. He +appears in at least a dozen different suits while the steamer is in port, +and stands ready to be photographed every time. + +Killisnoo used to be a point where 100,000 barrels of herring oil were +put up annually. The industry is now increasing again. + +NATURAL WEALTH. + +And this reminds me that I am almost neglecting a reference to Alaska's +vast resources in forests, metals, furs, and fish. There are 300,000,000 +of acres densely wooded with spruce, red and yellow cedar, Oregon pine, +hemlock, fir, and other useful varieties of timber. Canoes are made from +single trees, sixty feet long, with eight-feet beams. + +Gold, silver, lead, iron, coal, and copper are encountered in various +localities. Though but little prospected or developed, Alaska is now +yielding gold at the rate of about $2,000,000 per year. There is a +respectable area of island and mainland country well adapted to +stock-raising, and the production of many cereals and vegetables. The +climate of much of the coast country is milder than that of Colorado, and +stock can feed on the pastures the year round. + +But, if Alaska had no mines, forests, or agriculture, its seal and salmon +fisheries would remain alone an immense commercial property. The salmon +are found in almost any part of these northern waters where fresh water +comes in, as they always seek those streams in the spawning season. There +are different varieties that come at stated periods and are caught in +fabulous numbers, sometimes running solid ten feet deep, and often +retarding steamers when a school of them is overtaken. At Idaho Inlet Mr. +Van Gasken brought up a seine for the Ancon tourists containing 350 salmon +for packing. At nearly every port the steamer landed there was either one +or more canning or salt-packing establishments for salmon. Of these, +11,500,000 pounds were marketed last year. + +Besides the salmon there is the halibut, black and white cod, rock cod, +herring, sturgeon, and many other fish, while the waters are whipped by +porpoises and whales in large numbers all along the way. Governor +Swineford estimates the products of the Alaska fisheries last year at +$3,000,000. + +THE SEAL FISHERIES + +are still 1,800 miles west of Sitka. St. Paul and St. George Islands are +the best breeding places of the seals, sea lions, sea otter, and walrus. +These islands are in a continuous fog in summer, and are swept by icy +blasts in winter. There are many interesting facts connected with these +islands and the habits of these phocine kindred, but space is limited. +Suffice that 100,000 seals are killed each year for commercial purposes. +Over 1,000,000 seal pups are born every year, and when they leave for +winter quarters they go in families and not altogether. An average seal +is about six feet long, but some are found eight feet long and weigh from +400 to 800 pounds. The work of catching is all done between the middle of +June and the first of August. The fur company are supposed to pay our +Government $2 for each pelt. These hides are at once shipped to London to +be dyed and made ready to be put on the market in the United States. + +In fact, Alaska seems full to overflowing with offerings to seekers of +fortune or pleasure. Its coast climate is mild, with no extreme heat, +because of the snow-clad peaks which temper the humid air, and never +extreme cold, because of the Japan current that bathes its mossy slopes +and destroys the frigid wave before it does its work. + +Three thousand miles along this inland sea has revealed scenes of +matchless grandeur--majestic mountains (think of snow-crowned St. Elias, +rising 19,500 feet from the ocean's edge), the mightiest glaciers, +world's of inimitable, indescribable splendor. It is a trip of a +lifetime. There is none other like it, and our party unanimously resolves +that the tourist who fails to take it misses very much. + + * * * * * + +_Fifth Tour_.--From Portland to San Francisco by steamer is one of the +most enjoyable trips offered the tourist in point of safety and comfort, +and the service is exceptionally fine. + +The steamers "Oregon," "Columbia," and "State of California" are powerful +iron steamers, built expressly for tourist travel between Portland and San +Francisco. The traveler will find this fifty-hour ocean voyage thoroughly +enjoyable; the sea is uniformly smooth, no greater motion than the long +swell of the Pacific, and the boats are models of neatness and comfort. +It affords a grand opportunity to run down the California coast, always +in sight of land, and derive the invigorating exhilaration of an ocean +trip without any of its discomforts. Among the many points of interest to +be seen are the picturesque Columbia River Bar, the beautiful Ocean Beach +at Clatsop, the towering heights of Cape Hancock, the lonely Mid-Ocean +Lighthouse at Tillamook Rock, the historical Rogue River Reef, Cape +Mendocino, Humboldt Bay, Point Arena, and last, but not least, the +world-renowned Golden Gate of San Francisco. + +[Illustration: MOONLIGHT AT THE OLD BLOCK HOUSE, COLUMBIA RIVER. On the +Union Pacific Ry.] + +The steamships of this company are all new, modern-designed iron vessels, +supplied with steam steering apparatus, electric light and bells, and all +improved nautical appliances. The state-rooms, cabins, salons, etc., are +elaborately furnished throughout, the whole presenting an unrivaled scene +of luxurious ocean life. + +The advantages of this charming ocean trip to the tourist are most +obvious; there is the healthful air of the grand old Pacific Ocean, +complete freedom from dust, heat, cinders, and all the discomforts which +one meets in midsummer railway travel. + + * * * * * + +STANDARD PUBLICATIONS BY THE PASSENGER DEPARTMENT OF THE UNION PACIFIC +RAILWAY. + +The Passenger Department of the Union Pacific Railway will take pleasure +in forwarding to any address, free, of charge, any of the following +publications, provided that with the application is enclosed the amount +of postage specified below for each publication. All of these books and +pamphlets are fresh from the press, many of them handsomely illustrated, +and accurate as regards the region of country described. They will be +found entertaining and instructive, and invaluable as guides to and +authority on the fertile tracts and landscape wonders of the great empire +of the West. There is information for the tourist, pleasure and health +seeker, the investor, the settler, the sportsman, the artist, and the +invalid. + +The Western Resort Book. Send 6 cents for postage. + +This is a finely illustrated book describing the vast Union Pacific +system. Every health resort, mountain retreat, watering place, hunter's +paradise, etc., etc., is depicted. This book gives a full and complete +detail of all tours over the line, starting from Sioux City, Council +Bluffs, Omaha, St. Joseph, Leavenworth, or Kansas City, and contains a +complete itinerary of the journey from either of these points to the +Pacific Coast. + +Sights and Scenes. Send 2 cents postage for each pamphlet. + +There are five pamphlets in this set, pocket folder size, illustrated, +and are descriptive of tours to particular points. The set comprises +"Sights and Scenes in Colorado;" Utah; Idaho and Montana; California; +Oregon, Washington, and Alaska. Each pamphlet, deals minutely with every +resort of pleasure or health within its assigned limit, and will be found +bright and interesting reading for tourists. + +Facts and Figures. Send 2 cents postage for each pamphlet. + +This is a set of three pamphlets, containing facts and figures relative +to Kansas, Nebraska, and Colorado respectively. They are more +particularly meant for intending settlers in these fertile States and +will be found accurate in every particular; there is a description of all +important towns. + +Vest Pocket Memorandum Book. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A handy, neatly gotten-up little memorandum book, very useful for the +farmer, business man, traveler, and tourist. + +Calendar, 1890. Send 6 cents for postage. + +An elegant Calendar for the year 1890, suitable for the office and +counting room. + +Comprehensive Pamphlets. Send 6 cents postage for each pamphlet. + +A set of pamphlets on Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, Idaho, Oregon, +and Washington. These books treat, of the resources, climate, acreage, +minerals, grasses, soil, and products of these various empires on an +extended scale, entering very fully upon an exhaustive treatise of the +capabilities and promise of the places described. They have been very +carefully compiled, and the information collated from Official Reports, +actual settlers, and residents of the different States and Territories. + +Theatrical Diary. Send 10 cents for postage. + +This is a Theatrical Diary for 1890-91, bound in Turkey Morocco, gilt +tops, and contains a, list of 255 theatres and opera houses reached by +the Union Pacific system, seating capacity, size of stage, terms, +newspapers in each town, etc., etc. This Diary is intended only for the +theatrical profession. + +Commercial Salesman's Expense Book. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A neat vest pocket memorandum book for 1890--dates, cash accounts, etc., +etc. + +Outdoor Sports and Pastimes. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A carefully compiled pamphlet of some thirty pages, giving the complete +rules of this year, for Lawn Tennis, Base Ball, Croquet, Racquet, +Cricket, Quoits, La Crosse, Polo, Curling, Foot Ball, etc., etc. There +are also diagrams of a Lawn Tennis Court and Base Ball diamond. This +pamphlet will be found especially valuable to lovers of these games. + +Map of the United States. Send 25 cents for postage. + +A large wall map of the United States, complete in every particular, and +compiled from the latest surveys; just published; size, 46 x 66 inches; +railways, counties, roads, etc., etc. + +Stream, Sound and Sea. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A neat, illustrated pamphlet descriptive of a trip from The Dalles of the +Columbia to Portland, Ore., Astoria, Clatsop Beach; through the strait of +Juan de Fuca and the waters of the Puget Sound, and up the coast to +Alaska. A handsome pamphlet containing valuable information for the +tourist. + +Wonderful Story. Send 2 cents for postage. + +The romance of railway building. The wonderful story of the early surveys +and the building of the Union Pacific. A paper by General G.M. Dodge, read +before the Society of the Army of the Tennessee, September, 1888. General +Sherman pronounces this document fascinatingly interesting and, of great +historical value, and vouches for its accuracy. + +Gun Club Rules and Revised Game Laws. Send 2 cents for postage. + +This valuable publication is a digest of the laws relating to game in all +the Western States and Territories. It also contains the various gun club +rules, together with a guide to all Western localities where game of +whatsoever description may be found. Every sportsman should have one. + +"The Oldest Inhabitant." Send 10 cents for postage. + +This is a buffalo head in Sepia, a very artistic study from life. It is +characterized by strong drawing and wonderful fidelity. A very handsome +acquisition for parlor or library. + +Crofutt's Overland Guide, No. 1. Send $1.00. + +This book has just been issued. It graphically describes every point, +giving its history, population, business resources, etc., etc., on the +line of the Union Pacific Hallway, between the Missouri River and the +Pacific Coast, and the tourist should not start West without a copy in +his possession. It furnishes in one volume a complete guide to the +country traversed by the Union Pacific system, and can not fail to be of +great assistance to the tourist in selecting his route, and obtaining +complete information about the points to be visited. + +A Glimpse of Great Salt Lake. Send 4 cents for postage. + +This is a charming description of a yachting cruise on the mysterious +Inland sea, beautifully illustrated with original sketches by the +well-known artist, Mr. Alfred Lambourne, of Salt Lake City. This +startling phenomena of sea and cloud and light and color are finely +portrayed. This book touches a new region, a voyage on Great Salt Lake +never before having been described and pictured. + +General Folder. No postage required. + +A carefully revised General Folder is issued regularly every month. This +publication gives condensed through time tables; through car service; a +first-class map of the United States, west of Chicago and St. Louis; +important baggage and ticket regulations of the Union Pacific Railway, +thus making a valuable compendium for the traveler and for ticket agent +in selling through tickets over the Union Pacific Railway. + +The Pathfinder. No postage required. + +A book of some fifty pages devoted to local time cards; containing a +complete list of stations with the altitude of each; also connections +with western stage lines and ocean steamships; through car service; +baggage and Pullman Sleeping Car rates and the principal ticket +regulations, which will prove of great value as a ready reference for +ticket agents to give passengers information about the local branches of +the Union Pacific Railway. + +Alaska Folder. No postage required. + +This Folder contains a brief outline of the trip to Alaska, and also a +correct map of the Northwest Pacific Coast, from Portland to Sitka, +Alaska, showing the route of vessels to and from this new and almost +unknown country. + +[Illustration: Oregon, Washington and Alaska. Sights and Scenes for the +Tourist.] + +[Illustration: Tourist Map of Union Pacific and Connecting Lines.] + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10751 *** diff --git a/10751-8.txt b/10751-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8d268a6 --- /dev/null +++ b/10751-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2715 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Oregon, Washington and Alaska; Sights and +Scenes for the Tourist, by E. L. Lomax + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + + + + +Title: Oregon, Washington and Alaska; Sights and Scenes for the Tourist + +Author: E. L. Lomax + +Release Date: January 19, 2004 [eBook #10751] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: iso-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA; +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST*** + + +E-text prepared by P. A. Peters, Beth Trapaga, and the Project Gutenberg +Online Distributed Proofreading Team + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 10751-h.htm or 10751-h.zip: + (http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/1/0/7/5/10751/10751-h/10751-h.htm) + or + (http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/1/0/7/5/10751/10751-h.zip) + + + + + +OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA. + +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST. + +By E.L. LOMAX, General Passenger Agent, +Union Pacific System. +Omaha, Neb. + +1890 + + + + + +[Illustration: Oregon, Washington and Alaska. Sights and Scenes for the +Tourist.] + +[Illustration: Union Pacific Overland. +Sights and Scenes in Oregon, Washington and Alaska for Tourists. +Compliments of the Passenger Department, Union Pacific System, Omaha, +Neb.] + + + + + +LIST OF AGENTS. + +ALBANY, N.Y.--23 Maiden Lane--J.D. TENBROECK. Trav. Pass. Agt. + +BOSTON, MASS.--290 Washington St.--W.S. CONDELL, New England Freight +and Passenger Agent. + J.S. SMITH, Traveling Passenger Agent. + E.M. NEWBEGIN, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. + A.P. MASSEY, Passenger and Freight Solicitor. + +BUFFALO, N.Y.--40-1/2 Exchanges St.--S.A. HUTCHISON, Trav. Pass. Agt. + +BUTTE, MONT.--Corner Main and Broadway--General Agt. + +CHEYENNE, WYO.--C.W. SWEET, Freight and Ticket Agent. + +CHICAGO, ILL.--191 South Clark St.--W.H. KNIGHT, Gen'l Agt. P. and F. +Dep'ts. + T.W. YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent. + W.T. HOLLY, City Passenger Agent. + ALFRED MORTESSEN & CO., European Immigration Agts., 140 Kinzie St. + +CINCINNATI, OHIO--56 West 4th St.--J.D. WELSH, Gen'l Agt. P. and F. +Dep'ts. + H.C. SMITH, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. + +CLEVELAND, OHIO--Kennard House.--A.G. SHEARMAN, T. F. and P. Agt. + +COLORADO SPRINGS, COLO.--E.D. BAXTER, Gen'l Agt D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +COLUMBUS, OHIO--N.W. Cor. Gay and High Sts.--T.C. HIRST, Trav. Pass. Agt. + +COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA--506 First Ave.--A.J. MANDERSON, General Agt. + R.W. CHAMBERLAIN, Passenger Agent, Transfer Depot. + J.W. MAYNARD, Ticket Agent, Transfer Depot. + A.T. ELWELL, City Ticket Agent, 507 Broadway. + +DALLAS, TEX.--H.M. DE HART, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +DENVER, COLO.--1703 Larimer St.--F.I. SMITH, Gen'l Agt. D., T. & Ft. W. +R.R. + GEO. ADY, General Passenger Agent, Colo. Div. and D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + F.B. SEMPLE, Ass't Gen'l Pass. Agt, Colo. Div. and D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + C.H. TITUS, Traveling Passenger Agent. + R.P.M. KIMBALL, City Ticket Agent. + +DES MOINES, IOWA--218 4th St.--E.M. FORD, Traveling Passenger Agent. + +DETROIT, MICH.--62 Griswold St.--D.W. JOHNSTON, Michigan Pass. Agt. + +HELENA, MONT.--2 North Main St.--A.E. VEAZIE, City Ticket Agent. + +INDIANAPOLIS, IND.--Room 3 Jackson Place.--H.O. WEBB, Traveling Passenger +Agent. + +KANSAS CITY, MO.--9th and Broadway.--J.B. FRAWLEY, Div. Pass. Agt. + J.B. REESE, Traveling Passenger Agent. + F.S. HAACKE, Traveling Passenger Agent. + H.K. PROUDFIT, City Passenger Agent. + T.A. SHAW, Ticket Agent, 1038 Union Ave. + A.W. MILLSPAUGH, Ticket Agent, Union Depot. + C.A. WHITTIER, City Ticket Agent, 528 Main St. + +LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND--23 Water St.--S. STAMFORD PARRY, General European +Agent. + +LONDON, ENGLAND--THOS. COOK & SONS, European Passenger Agents, Ludgate +Circus. + +LOS ANGELES, CAL.--51 North Spring St.--JOHN CLARK, Agt. Pass. Dep't. + A.J. HECHTMAN, Agent Freight Department. + +LOUISVILLE, KY.--346 West Main St.--N. HAIGHT, Traveling Pass. Agent. + +NEW ORLEANS, LA.--45 St. Charles St.--C.B. SMITH, General Agent D., T. +& Ft. W. R.R. + D.M. REA, Traveling Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +NEW YORK CITY--287 Broadway--R. TENBROECK, General Eastern Agent. + J.F. WILEY, Passenger Agent. + F.R. SEAMAN, City Passenger Agent. + +OGDEN, UTAH--Union Depot--C.A. HENRY, Ticket Agent. + C.E. INGALLS, Traveling Passenger Agent. + +OLYMPIA, WASH.--2d St. Wharf.--J.C. PERCIVAL, Ticket Agent. + +OMAHA, NEB.--9th and Farnam Sts.--M.J. GREEVY, Trav. Pass. Agt. + HARRY P. DEUEL, City Passenger and Ticket Agent, 1302 Farnam St. + J.K. CHAMBERS, Depot Ticket Agent, 10th and Marey Sts. + +PHILADELPHIA, PA.--133 South 4th St.--D.E. BURLEY, Trav. Pass. Agt. + L.T. FOWLER, Traveling Freight Agent. + +PITTSBURG, PA.--400 Wood St.--H.E. PASSAVANT, T. F. and P. A. + THOS. S. SPEAR, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. + +PORTLAND, ORE.--Cor. 3d and Oak Sts.--T.W. LEE, Gen'l Passenger Agent, +Pacific Div. + A.L. MAXWELL, General Agent Traffic Department. + HARRY YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent. + GEO. S. TAYLOR, City Ticket Agent. Cor. 1st and Oak Sts. + +PORT TOWNSEND, WASH.--Union Wharf--H.L. TIBBALS, Jr., Ticket Agt. + +PUEBLO, COLO.--E.R. HARDING, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +ST. JOSEPH, MO.--F.L. LYNDE, General Pass. Agent, St. J. & G.I. R.R. Div. + W.P. ROBINSON, Jr., General Freight Agent, St. J. & G.I. R.R. Div. + +ST. LOUIS, MO.--213 North 4th St.--J.F. AGLAR, Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep't. + E.R. TUTTLE, Traveling Passenger Agent. + E.S. WILLIAMS, City Passenger Agent. + C.C. KNIGHT, Freight Contracting Agent. + +SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH--201 Main St.--J.V. PARKER, Assistant General +Freight and Passenger Agent, Mountain Div. + +SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.--1 Montgomery St.--W.H. HURLBURT, Assistant General +Passenger Agent, Mo. Riv. Div. + S.W. ECCLES, General Agent Freight Department. + C.L. HANNA, Traveling Passenger Agent. + H. FRODSHAM, Passenger Agent. + J.F. FUGAZI, Italian Emigrant Agent, 5 Montgomery Ave. + +SEATTLE, WASH.--A.C. MARTIN, City Ticket Agent. + O.F. BRIGGS, Ticket Agent, Dock. + +SIOUX CITY, IOWA--513 Fourth St.--D.M. COLLINS, General Agent. + GEO. E. ABBOT, City Ticket Agent. + +SPOKANE FALLS, WASH.--108 Riverside Ave.--PERRY GRIFFIN, Passenger and +Ticket Agent. + +TACOMA, WASH.--901 Pacific Ave.--E.E. ELLIS, Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep'ts. + +TRINIDAD, COLO.--G.M. JACOBS, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +VICTORIA, B.C.--100 Government St.--G.A. COOPER, Ticket Agent. + +WHATCOM, WASH.--J.W. ALTON, Gen'l Agent Freight and Pass. Dep'ts. + + +J.A.S. REED, General Traveling Agent, 191 South Clark St., CHICAGO. +ALBERT WOODCOCK, General Land Commissioner, OMAHA, NEB. + +E.L. LOMAX, General Passenger Agent, ) OMAHA, NEB. JNO. W. +SCOTT, Ass't General Passenger Agent, ) + + * * * * * + +PULLMAN'S PALACE CAR COMPANY + +Now operates this class of service on the Union Pacific and connecting +lines. + + Double Drawing +PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES BETWEEN Berths Room + +New York and Chicago $ 5.00 $ 18.00 +New York and St. Louis 6.00 22.00 +Boston and Chicago 5.50 20.00 +Chicago and Omaha or Kansas City 2.50 9.00 +Chicago and Denver 6.00 21.00 +St. Louis and Kansas City 2.00 7.00 +St. Louis and Omaha 2.50 9.00 +Kansas City and Cheyenne 4.50 15.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Denver 3.50 12.00 +Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne 4.00 14.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and + Salt Lake City 8.00 28.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Ogden 8.00 28.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Butte 8.50 32.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Portland 13.00 50.00 +C. Bluff, Omaha or K. City and San Francisco + or Los Angeles 13.00 50.00 +Cheyenne and Portland 10.00 38.00 +Denver and Leadville 2.00 ... +Denver and Portland 11.00 42.00 +Denver and Los Angeles 11.00 42.00 +Denver and San Francisco 11.00 42.00 +Pocatello and Butte 2.00 6.00 + +For a Section, Twice the Double Berth Rates will be charged. + +The Private Hotel, Dining, Hunting and Sleeping Cars of the Pullman +Company will accommodate from 12 to 18 persons, allowing a full bed +to each, and are fitted with such modern conveniences as private, +observation and smoking rooms, folding beds, reclining chairs, buffets +and kitchens. They are "_just the thing_" for tourists, theatrical +companies, sportsmen, and private parties. The Hunting Cars have special +conveniences, being provided with dog-kennels, gun-racks, fishing-tackle, +etc. These cars can be chartered at following rates per diem (the time +being reckoned from date of departure until return of same, unless +otherwise arranged with the Pullman Company): + +Less than Ten Days. + + per day. per day. +Hotel Cars $ 50.00 Private or Hunting Cars $ 35.00 +Buffet Cars 45.00 Private Cars with Buffet 30.00 +Sleeping Cars 40.00 Dining Cars 30.00 + +Ten Days or over, $5.00 per day less than above. Hotel, Buffet, or +Sleeping Cars can also be chartered for continuous trips without +lay-over between points where extra cars are furnished (cars to be +given up at destination), as follows: + +Where berth rate is $ 1.50, car rate will be $ 35.00 + " " " 2.00, " " " " 45.00 + " " " 2.50, " " " " 55.00 + +For each additional berth rate of 50 cents, car rate will be increased +$10.00. + +Above rates include service of polite and skillful attendants. The +commissariat will also be furnished if desired. Such chartered cars must +contain not less than 15 persons holding full first-class tickets, and +another full fare ticket will be required for each additional passenger +over 15. If chartered "per diem" cars are given up _en route_, chartering +party must arrange for return to original starting point free, or pay +amount of freight necessary for return thereto. Diagrams showing interior +of these cars can be had of any agent of the Company. + +PULLMAN DINING CARS + +are attached to the Council Bluffs and Denver Vestibuled Express, daily +between Council Bluffs and Denver, and to "The Limited Fast Mail," +running daily between Council Bluffs and Portland, Ore. + +MEALS. + +All trains, except those specified above (under head of Pullman Dining +Cars), stop at regular eating stations, where first-class meals are +furnished, under the direct supervision of this Company, by the Pacific +Hotel Company. Neat and tidy lunch counters are also to be found at these +stations. + +BUFFET SERVICE. + +Particular attention is called to the fine Buffet Service offered by the +Union Pacific System to its patrons. Pullman Palace Buffet Sleepers now +run on trains Nos. 1, 2, 201, and 202. + + * * * * * + +SIGHTS AND SCENES IN OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA. + +Oregon is a word derived from the Spanish, and means "wild thyme," the +early explorers finding that herb growing there in great profusion. So +far as we have any record Oregon seems to have been first visited by +white men in 1775; Captain Cook coasted down its shores in 1778. Captain +Gray, commanding the ship "Columbia," of Boston, Mass., discovered the +noble river in 1791, which he named after his ship. Astoria was founded +in 1811; immigration was in full tide in 1839; Territorial organization +was effected in 1848, and Oregon became a State on 14th February, 1859. +It has an area of 96,000 square miles, and is 350 miles long by 275 miles +wide. There are 50,000,000 acres of arable and grazing land, and +10,000,000 acres of forest in the State. + +The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates a series of +excursion tickets called "Columbia Tours," using Portland as a central +point. Stop-over privileges will be given within the limitation of the +tickets. + +First Columbia Tour: Portland to "The Dalles," by rail, and return by +river. + +Second Columbia Tour: Portland to Astoria, Ilwaco, and Clatsop Beach, and +return by river. + +Third Columbia Tour: Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma by +boat and return. + +Fourth Columbia Tour: Portland to Alaska and return. + +Fifth Columbia Tour: Portland to San Francisco by boat. + +PORTLAND + +Is a very beautiful city of 60,000 inhabitants, and situated on the +Willamette river twelve miles from its junction with the Columbia. It is +perhaps true of many of the growing cities of the West, that they do not +offer the same social advantages as the older cities of the East. But +this is principally the case as to what may be called boom cities, where +the larger part of the population is of that floating class which follows +in the line of temporary growth for the purposes of speculation, and in +no sense applies to those centers of trade whose prosperity is based on +the solid foundation of legitimate business. As the metropolis of a +vast section of country, having broad agricultural valleys filled with +improved farms, surrounded by mountains rich in mineral wealth, and +boundless forests of as fine timber as the world produces, the cause +of Portland's growth and prosperity is the trade which it has as the +center of collection and distribution of this great wealth of natural +resources, and it has attracted, not the boomer and speculator, who +find their profits in the wild excitement of the boom, but the +merchant, manufacturer, and investor, who seek the surer if slower +channels of legitimate business and investment. These have come from +the East, most of them within the last few years. They came as seeking +a better and wider field to engage in the same occupations they had +followed in their Eastern homes, and bringing with them all the love of +polite life which they had acquired there, have established here a new +society, equaling in all respects that which they left behind. Here are +as fine churches, as complete a system of schools, as fine residences, +as great a love of music and art, as can be found at any city of the +East of equal size. + +[Illustration: PORTLAND, ORE. +On the Union Pacific Ry.] + +But while Portland may justly claim to be the peer of any city of its +size in the United States in all that pertains to social life, in the +attractions of beauty of location and surroundings it stands without its +peer. The work of art is but the copy of nature. What the residents of +other cities see but in the copy, or must travel half the world over to +see in the original, the resident of Portland has at his very door. + +The city is situate on gently-sloping ground, with, on the one side, +the river, and on the other a range of hills, which, within easy +walking distance, rise to an elevation of a thousand feet above the +river, affording a most picturesque building site. From the very +streets of the thickly settled portion of the city, the Cascade +Mountains, with the snow-capped peaks of Hood, Adams, St. Helens, and +Rainier, are in plain view. As the hills to the west are ascended the +view broadens, until, from the extreme top of some of the higher +points, there is, to the east, the valley stretching away to the +Cascade Mountains, with its rivers, the Columbia and Willamette; in the +foreground Portland, in the middle distance Vancouver, and, bounding +the horizon, the Cascade Mountains, with their snow-clad peaks, and the +gorge of the Columbia in plain sight, whilst away to the north the +course of the Columbia may be followed for miles. To the west, from the +foot of the hills, the valley of the Tualatin stretches away twenty odd +miles to the Coast Range, which alone shuts out the view of the Pacific +Ocean and bounds the horizon on the west. To the glaciers of Mt. Hood +is but little more than a day's travel. The gorge of the Columbia, +which in many respects equals, and in others surpasses the far-famed +Yosemite, may be visited in the compass of a day. The Upper Willamette, +within the limits of a few hours' trip, offers beauties equaling the +Rhine, whilst thirty-six hours gives the Lower Columbia, beside which +the Rhine and Hudson sink into insignificance. In short, within a few +hours' walk of the heart of this busy city are beauties surpassing the +White Mountains or Adirondacks, and the grandeur of the Alps lies +within the limits of a day's picnicking. + +There is no better guarantee of the advantageous position of Portland +than the wealth which has accumulated here in the short period which +has elapsed since the city first sprang into existence. Theory is all +very well, but the actual proof is in the result. At the taking of the +census of 1880, Portland was the third wealthiest city in the world in +proportion to population; since that date wealth has accumulated at an +unprecedented rate, and it is probable it is to-day the wealthiest. +Among all her wealthy men, not one can be singled out who did not make +his money here, who did not come here poor to grow rich. + +Portland enjoys superb advantages as a starting-point for tourist +travel. After the traveler has enjoyed the numerous attractions of that +wealthy city, traversed its beautiful avenues, viewed a strikingly +noble landscape from "The Heights," and explored those charming +environs which extend for miles up and down the Willamette, there +remains perhaps the most invigorating and healthful trip of all--a +journey either by + +STREAM, SOUND, OR SEA. + +There must ever remain in the mind of the tourist a peculiarly +delightful recollection of a day on the majestic Columbia River, the +all too short run across that glorious sheet of water, Puget Sound, or +the fifty hours' luxurious voyage on the Pacific Ocean, from Portland +to San Francisco. + +Beginning first with the Columbia River, the traveler will find solid +comfort on any one of the boats belonging to the Union Pacific Railway +fleet. This River Division is separated into three subdivisions: the +Lower Columbia from Portland to Astoria, the Middle Columbia from +Portland to Cascade Locks, and the Upper Columbia from the Cascades +to The Dalles. + + * * * * * + +THE UPPER COLUMBIA. + +_First Tour_.--Passengers will remember that, arriving at The Dalles, +on the Union Pacific Railway, they have the option of proceeding into +Portland either by rail or river, and their ticket is available for +either route. + +[Illustration: A GLIMPSE OF MOUNT ADAMS, WASHINGTON. As seen from the +Union Pacific Ry.] + +The river trip will be found a very pleasant diversion after the long +railway ride, and a day's sail down the majestic Columbia is a +memory-picture which lasts a life-time. It is eighty-eight miles by rail +to Portland, the train skirting the river bank up to within a few miles +of the city. By river, it is forty-five miles to the Upper Cascades, then +a six-mile portage via narrow-gauge railway, then sixty miles by steamer +again to Portland. The boat leaves The Dalles at about 7 in the morning, +and reaches Portland at 6 in the evening. The accommodations on these +boats are first-class in every respect; good table, neat staterooms, and +courteous attendants. + +This tour is planned for those who may wish to start from Portland by +the Union Pacific Railway. Take the evening train from Portland to The +Dalles. Arriving at The Dalles, walk down to the boat, which lies only +a few yards down stream from the station. Sleep on board, so that you +may be ready early in the morning for the stately panorama of the +river. Another plan is to give a day to the interesting country in the +near vicinity. The Dalles proper of the Columbia begin at Celilo, +fourteen miles above this point, and are simply a succession of rapids, +until, nearing The Dalles Station, the stream for two and a half miles +narrows down between walls of basaltic rock 130 feet across. In the +flood-tides of the spring the water in this chasm has risen 126 feet. +The word "Dalles" is rather misleading. The word is French, "dalle," +and means, variously, "a plate," "a flagstone," "a slab," alluding to +the oval or square shaped stones which abound in the river bed and the +valley above. But the early French hunters and trappers called a chasm +or a defile or gorge, "dalles," meaning in their vernacular "a +trough"--and "Dalles" it has remained. There is a quaint Indian legend +connected with the spot which may interest the curious, and it runs +something on this wise, Clark's Fork and the Snake river, it will be +remembered, unite at Ainsworth to form the Columbia. It flows furiously +for a hundred miles and more westward, and when it reaches the outlying +ridges of the Cascade chain it finds an immense low surface paved with +enormous sheets of basaltic rock. But here is the legend: + +THE LEGEND OF THE DALLES. + +In the very ancient far-away times the sole and only inhabitants of the +world were fiends, and very highly uncivilized fiends at that. The +whole Northwest was then one of the centres of volcanic action. The +craters of the Cascades were fire breathers and fountains of liquid +flame. It was an extremely fiendish country, and naturally the +inhabitants fought like devils. Where the great plains of the Upper +Columbia now spread was a vast inland sea, which beat against a rampart +of hills to the east of The Dalles. And the great weapon of the fiends +in warfare was their tails, which were of prodigious size and terrible +strength. Now, the wisest, strongest, and most subtle fiend of the +entire crew was one fiend called the "Devil." He was a thoughtful +person and viewed with alarm the ever increasing tendency among his +neighbors toward fighting and general wickedness. The whole tribe met +every summer to have a tournament after their fashion, and at one of +these reunions the Devil arose and made a pacific speech. He took +occasion to enlarge on the evils of constant warfare, and suggested +that a general reconciliation take place and that they all live in +peace. The astonished fiends could not understand any such unwarlike +procedure from _him_, and with one accord, suspecting treachery, made +straight at the intended reformer, who, of course, took to his heels. +The fiends pressed him hard as he sped over the plains of The Dalles, +and as he neared the defile he struck a Titanic blow with his tail on +the pavement--and a chasm opened up through the valley, and down rushed +the waters of the inland sea. But a battalion of the fiends still +pursued him, and again he smote with his tail and more strongly, and a +vaster cleft went up and down the valley, and a more terrific torrent +swept along. The leading fiends took the leap, but many fell into the +chasm--and still the Devil was sorely pursued. He had just time to rap +once more and with all the vigor of a despairing tail. And this time he +was safe. A third crevice, twice the width of the second, split the +rocks, riving a deeper cleft in the mountain that held back the inland +sea, making a gorge through the majestic chain of the Cascades and +opening a way for the torrent oceanward. It was the crack of doom for +the fiends. Essaying the leap, they fell far short of the edge, where +the Devil lay panting. Down they fell and were swept away by the flood; +so the whole race of fiends perished from the face of the earth. But +the Devil was in sorry case. His tail was unutterably dislocated by his +last blow; so, leaping across the chasm he had made, he went home to +rear his family thoughtfully. There were no more antagonists; so, +perhaps, after all, tails were useless. Every year he brought his +children to The Dalles and told them the terrible history of his +escape. And after a time the fires of the Cascades burned away; the +inland sea was drained and its bed became a fair and habitable land, +and still the waters gushed through the narrow crevices roaring +seaward. But the Devil had one sorrow. All his children born before the +catastrophe were crabbed, unregenerate, stiff-tailed fiends. After that +event every new-born imp wore a flaccid, invertebrate, despondent +tail--the very last insignium of ignobility. So runs the legend of The +Dalles--a shining lesson to reformers. + +Leaving The Dalles in the morning, a splendid panorama begins to unfold +on this lordly stream--"Achilles of rivers," as Winthrop called it. It +is difficult to describe the charm of this trip. Residents of the East +pronounce it superior to the Hudson, and travelers assert there is +nothing like it in the Old World. It is simply delicious to those +escaped from the heat and dust of their far-off homes to embark on this +noble stream and steam smoothly down past frowning headlands and "rocks +with carven imageries," bluffs lined with pine trees, vivid green, past +islands and falls, and distant views of snowy peaks. There is no trip +like it on the coast, and for a river excursion there is not its equal +in the United States. + +THE ISLE OF THE DEAD. + +Twelve miles below "The Dalles" there is a lonely, rugged island anchored +amid stream. It is bare, save for a white monument which rises from its +rocky breast. No living thing, no vestige of verdure, or tree, or shrub, +appears. And Captain McNulty, as he stood at the wheel and steadied the +"Queen," said: + +"That monument? It's Victor Trevet's. Of course you never heard of him, +but he was a great man, all the same, here in Oregon in the old times. +Queer he was, and no mistake. Member of one of the early legislatures; +sort of a general peacemaker; everybody went to him with their troubles, +and when he said a lawsuit didn't go, it didn't, and he always stuck up +for the Indians, and always called his own kind 'dirty mean whites.' I +used to think that was put on, and maybe it was, but anyhow that's the +way he used to talk. And a hundred times he has said to me, 'John, when +I die, I want to be buried on Memaloose Isle.' That's the 'Isle of the +Dead,' which we just passed, and has been from times away back the burial +place of the Chinook Indians. It's just full of 'em. And I says to him, +'Now, Vic., it's fame your after.' 'John,' says he, 'I'll tell you: I'm +not indifferent to glory; and there's many a big gun laid away in the +cemetery that people forget in a year, and his grave's never visited +after a few turns of the wheel; but if I rest on Memaloose Isle, I'll not +be forgotten while people travel this river. And another thing: You know, +John, the dirty, mean whites stole the Indian's burial ground and built +Portland there. Everyday the papers have an account of Mr. Bigbug's +proposed palace, and how Indian bones were turned up in the excavation. I +won't be buried alongside any such dirty, mean thieves. And I'll tell you +further, John, that it may be if I am laid away among the Indians, when +the Great Day comes I can slip in kind of easy. They ain't going to have +any such a hard time as the dirty whites will have, and maybe I won't be +noticed, and can just slide in quiet along with their crowd.' + +"And I tell you," said the honest Captain, as he swung the "Queen" around +a sharp headland, and the monument and island vanished, "he has got his +wish. He don't lay among the whites, and there isn't a day in summer when +the name of Vic. Trevet ain't mentioned, either on yon train or on a boat, +just as I am telling it to you now. When he died in San Francisco five +years ago, some of his old friends had him brought back to 'The Dalles,' +and one lovely Sunday (being an off day) we buried him on Memaloose Isle, +and then we put up the monument. His earthly immortality is safe and sure, +for that stone will stand as long as the island stays. She's eight feet +square at the base, built of the native rock right on the island, then +three feet of granite, then a ten-foot column. It cost us $1,500, and +Vic. is bricked up in a vault underneath. Yes, sir, he's there for sure +till resurrection day. Queer idea? Why, blame it all, if he thought he +could get in along with the Chinooks it's all right, ain't it? Don't want +a man to lose any chances, do you?" + +[Illustration: MULTNOMAH FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +So much has been said of this mighty river that the preconceived idea +of the tourist is of a surging flood of unknown depth rushing like a +mountain torrent. The plain facts are that the Lower Columbia is rather +a placid stream, with a sluggish current, and the channel shoals up to +eight feet, then falling to twelve, fifteen and seventeen feet, and +suddenly dropping to 100 feet of water and over. In the spring months +it will rise from twenty-five to forty feet, leaving driftwood high up +among the trees on the banks. The tide ebbs and flows at Portland from +eighteen inches to three feet, according to season, and this tidal +influence is felt, in high water, as far up as the Cascades. It is +fifty miles of glorious beauty from "The Dalles" to the Cascades. Here +we leave the steamer and take a narrow-gauge railway for six miles +around the magnificent rapids. At the foot of the Cascades we board a +twin boat, fitted up with equal taste and comfort. + +THE MIDDLE COLUMBIA. + +Swinging once more down stream we pass hundreds of charming spots, sixty +miles of changeful beauty all the way to Portland; Multnomah Falls, a +filmy veil of water falling 720 feet into a basin on the hillside and +then 130 feet to the river; past the rocky walls of Cape Horn, towering +up a thousand feet; past that curious freak of nature, Rooster Rock, and +the palisades; past Fort Vancouver, where Grant and Sheridan were once +stationed, and just at sunset leaving the Columbia, which by this time +has broadened into noble dimensions, we ascend the Willamette twelve +miles to Portland. And the memory of that day's journey down the lordly +river will remain a gracious possession for years to come. + +THE LEGEND OF THE CASCADES. + +There is a quaint Indian legend concerning the Cascades to the effect +that away back in the forgotten times there was a natural bridge across +the river--the water flowing under one arch. The Great Spirit had made +this bridge very beautiful for his red children; it was firm, solid +earth, and covered with trees and grass. The two great giants who sat +always glowering at each other from far away (Mount Adams and Mount +Hood) quarreled terribly once on a time, and the sky grew black with +their smoke and the earth trembled with their roaring. And in their +rage and fury they began to throw great stones and huge mountain +boulders at one another. This great battle lasted for days, and when +the smoke and the thunderings had passed away and the sun shone +peacefully again, the people came back once more. But there was no +bridge there. Pieces of rock made small islands above the lost bridge, +but below that the river fretted and shouted and plunged over jagged +and twisted boulders for miles down the stream, throwing the spray high +in air, madly spending its strength in treacherous whirlpools and deep +seductive currents--ever after to be wrathful, complaining, dangerous. +The stoutest warrior could not live in that terrible torrent. So the +beautiful bridge was lost, destroyed in this Titan battle, but far down +in the water could be seen many of the stately trees which the Great +Spirit caused to remain there as a token of the bridge. These he turned +to stone, and they are there even unto this day. The theory of the +scientists, of course, runs counter to the pretty legend. Science +usually does destroy poetry, and they tell us that a part of the +mountain slid into the river, thus accounting for the remnant of a +forest down in the deep water. Moreover, pieces which have been +recovered show the wood to be live timber, and not petrified, as the +poetic fiction has it. The Columbia has not changed in the centuries, +but flows in the same channel here as when in the remote ages the lava, +overflowing, cut out a course and left its pathway clear for all time. +Below the lower Cascades a sea-coral formation is found, grayish in +color and not very pretty, but showing conclusively its sea formation. +Sandstone is also at times uncovered, showing that this was made by sea +deposit before the lava flowed down upon it. This Oregon country is +said to be the largest lava district in the world. The basaltic +formations in the volcanic lands of Sicily and Italy are famous for +their richness, and Oregon holds out the same promise for agriculture. +The lava formation runs from Portland to Spokane Falls, as far north as +Tacoma, and south as far as Snake river--all basaltic formation +overlaid with an incomparably rich soil. + +[Illustration: BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union +Pacific Ry.] + +The trip from Portland by rail to "The Dalles," if the tourist should +chance not to arrive in Portland by the Union Pacific line from the +east, will be found charming. It is eighty-eight miles distant. +Multnomah Falls is reached in thirty-two miles; Bonneville, forty-one +miles, at the foot of the Cascades; five miles farther is the +stupendous government lock now in process of building around the +rapids; Hood river, sixty-six miles, where tourists leave for the +ascent of Mount Hood. It is about forty miles through a picturesque +region to the base of the mountain. Then from Hood river, an ice-cold +stream, twenty-two miles into "The Dalles," where the steamer may be +taken for the return trip. In this eighty-eight miles from Portland to +"The Dalles" there are twelve miles of trestles and bridges. The +railway follows the Columbia's brink the entire distance to within a +few miles of the city. The scenery is impressively grand; the bluffs, +if they may be so called, are bold promontories attaining majestic +heights. One timber shute, where the logs come whizzing into the river +with the velocity of a cannon-ball, is 3,328 feet long, and it is +claimed a log makes the trip in twenty seconds. + +THE LOWER COLUMBIA. + +_Second Tour_.--While the Upper Columbia abounds in scenery of wild and +picturesque beauty, the tourist must by no means neglect a trip down +the lower river from Portland to Astoria and Ilwaco, and return. The +facilities now offered by the Union Pacific in its splendid fleet of +steamers render this a delightful excursion. On a clear day, one may +enjoy at the junction of the Willamette with the Columbia a very +wonderful sight--five mountain peaks are on view: St. Helens, Mt. +Jefferson, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Rainier. St. Helens, queen of +the Cascade Range, a fair and graceful cone. Exquisite mantling snows +sweep along her shoulders toward the bristling pines. Not far from her +base, the Columbia crashes through the mountains in a magnificent +chasm, and Mt. Hood, the vigorous prince of the range, rises in a keen +pyramid some 12,000 feet. Small villages and landing-places line the +shores, almost too numerous to mention. There are, of the more +important, St. Johns, St. Helens, Columbia City, Kalama, Rainier, +Westport, Cathlamet, Knappa, and Astoria at the mouth, a busy place of +6,000 people. Salmon canneries there are without number. It is about 98 +miles by the chart from Portland to Astoria. Across the bay is the +pretty town of Ilwaco. Ft. Canby and Cape Disappointment look across to +Ft. Stevens and Point Adams. From Astoria, one may drive eighteen miles +to Clatsop Beach, famous for its clams, crab, and trout, and Ben +Holliday's hotel. But the fullest enjoyment is obtained by making a +round trip, including a lay-over at Ilwaco all night, and returning to +Portland next day, and sleeping on board the boat. A railway runs from +the town to the outside beach, a mile and a half distant. There is a +drive twenty-five miles long up this long beach to Shoal Water Bay, +which is beautiful beyond description. This district is the great +supply point for oysters, heavy shipments being made as far south as +San Francisco. Sea bathing, both here and at Clatsop Beach, is very +fine. + +The boats of the Union Pacific Ry. on the Columbia leave nothing to be +desired. The "T.J. Potter," a magnificent side-wheel steamer, made her +first trip in July, 1888. She is 235 feet long, 35 feet beam, and 10 +feet hold, with a capacity of 600 passengers. The saloon and +state-rooms are fitted with every convenience, and handsomely +decorated. The "Potter" was built entirely in Portland, and the +citizens naturally take great pride in the superb vessel. In August, +1888, this steamer made the run from her berth at Portland to the +landing stage at Astoria in five hours and thirty-one minutes. Then +there are two night passenger boats from Portland down, the "R.R. +Thompson" and the "S.G. Reed," both stern-wheelers of large size, +spacious, roomy boats, well appointed in every particular. The Thompson +is 215 feet long, 38 feet beam, and 1,158 tons measurement. In addition +to these, there are two day mail passenger and freight boats; they +handle the way traffic; the larger boats above mentioned make the run +direct from Portland to Astoria without any landings. + +SOME RANDOM NOTES. + +A mistaken idea has possessed many tourists that the Puget Sound steamers +start from Portland; they leave Tacoma for all points on the Sound, and +Tacoma is about 150 miles by rail from Portland. + +One steamer sails every twelfth day from Portland to Seattle. + +One steamer per month leaves Portland for Alaska, but she touches at Port +Townsend before proceeding north. + +One steamship leaves Tacoma for Alaska during the season of 1890, about +every fifteen days, from June to September. + +The Ocean steamers sail every fourth day from Portland to San Francisco. + +There are semi-weekly boats between Portland and Corvallis, and +tri-weekly between Portland and Salem. + +On the Sound there are three boats each way, daily (except Sunday), +between Tacoma and Seattle; one boat each way, daily (except Sunday), +between Tacoma and Victoria; one boat each way, daily (except Sunday), +between Seattle and Whatcom, and one boat, daily (except Sunday), between +Whatcom and Seminahmoo. + +Only one class of tickets is sold on the River and Sound boats; on the +Ocean steamers there are two classes: cabin and steerage. The steerage +passengers on the Ocean steamers have a dining-room separate from the +first-class passengers--on the lower deck--and are given abundance of +wholesome food, tea and coffee. + +On River and Sound boats, a ticket does not include meals and berths, but +it does on the ocean voyage, or the Alaska trip. The usual price for meals +is 50 cents, and they will be found uniformly excellent. Breakfast, lunch, +and a 6 o'clock dinner are served. + +The price of berths on these boats runs from 50 cents for a single berth +to $3 per day for the bridal chamber. + +No liquors of any kind are kept on sale on any River or Sound steamer, +but a small stock of the best brands will be found on the Ocean steamers. + +State-rooms on the River and Sound steamers are provided with one double +lower and one single upper berth. + +Passengers can, if they choose, purchase the full accommodation of a +state-room. + +The steerage capacity of each of the three Ocean steamers is about 300. + +The diagram of the Ocean steamers and the night boats to Astoria can +always be found at the Union Ticket Office of the Union Pacific Railway +in Portland, corner First and Oak Streets. + +Tourists receive more than an ordinary amount of attention on these +steamers, more than is possible to pay them on a railway train. The +pursers will be found polite and obliging, always ready to point out +places of interest and render those little attentions which go so far +toward making travel pleasant. + +On River and Sound boats, the forward cabin is generally the +smoking-room, the cabin amidships is used for a "Social Hall," and the +"After Saloon" is always the ladies' cabin. + +All Union Pacific steamers in the Ocean service are heated with steam and +lighted with electricity; all have pianos and a well-selected library. The +beds on these boats are well-nigh perfect, woven-wire springs and heavy +mattresses. They are kept scrupulously clean--the company is noted for +that--and the steerage is as neat as the main saloon. + +One hundred and fifty pounds of baggage is allowed free on board both +boats and trains. + +Boats leaving terminal points at any time between 10 p.m. and 7 a.m., +arrange so that passengers can go on board after 7 p.m. and retire to +their state-rooms, thus enjoying an unbroken night's rest. + +Sea-sickness is never met with on the Sound, and very rarely on the +voyage from Portland to San Francisco. On the Pacific, the ship is never +out of sight of land, and the sea is as smooth as a mill-pond. + +The heaviest swell encountered is going over the Columbia River Bar. The +ocean is uniformly placid during the summer months. The trip, with its +freedom from the dust, rush, and roar of a train, and the inexorable +restraint one always feels on the cars, is a delightful one, and with +larger comforts and more luxurious surroundings, one enjoys the added +pleasure of courteous and thoughtful service from the various officers of +the ship. + +Taking the "Columbia" as a sample of the class of steamships in the +Union Pacific fleet, we notice that she is 334 feet long, 2,200 +horse-power, nearly 3,000 tonnage, has 65 state-rooms, and can +accommodate 200 saloon and 200 steerage passengers. Steam heat and +electric light are used. In 1880 the first plant from Edison's factory +was put on board the "Columbia," at that time a great curiosity, she +being the first ship to use the incandescent light. + +[Illustration: CRATER LAKE, ORE. +Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +CRATER LAKE. + +Crater Lake is situate in the northwestern portion of Klamath county, +Oregon, and is best reached by leaving the Southern Pacific Railroad at +Medford, which is 328 miles south of Portland, and about ninety miles +from the lake, which can be reached by a very good wagon road. The lake +is about six miles wide by seven miles long, but it is not its size +which is its beauty or its attraction. The surface of the water in the +lake is 6,251 feet above the level of the sea, and is surrounded by +cliffs or walls from 1,000 to over 2,000 feet in height, and which are +scantily covered with timber, and which offer at but one point a way of +reaching the water. The depth of the water is very great, and it is +very transparent, and of a deep blue color. Toward the southwestern +portion of the lake is Wizard Island, 845 feet high, circular in shape, +and slightly covered with timber. In the top of this island is a +depression, or crater--the Witches' Caldron--100 feet deep, and 475 +feet in diameter, which was evidently the last smoking chimney of a +once mighty volcano, and which is now covered within, as without, with +volcanic rocks. North of this island, and on the west side of the lake, +is Llao Rock, reaching to a height of 2,000 feet above the water, and +so perpendicular that a stone may be dropped from its summit to the +waters at its base, nearly one-half mile below. + +So far below the surrounding mountains is the surface of the waters in +this lake, that the mountain breezes but rarely ripple them; and looking +from the surrounding wall, the sky and cliffs are seen mirrored in the +glassy surface, and it is with difficulty the eye can distinguish the +line where the cliffs leave off and their reflected counterfeits begin. + +OREGON NATIONAL PARK. + +Townships 27, 28, 29, 30, and 31, in Ranges 5 and 6 east of the +Willamette meridian, are asked to be set apart as the Oregon National +Park. This area contains Crater Lake and its approaches. The citizens of +Oregon unanimously petitioned the President for the reservation of this +park, and a bill in conformity with the petition passed the United States +Senate in February, 1888. + + * * * * * + +_Third Tour_.--From Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma. + +WASHINGTON + +Is 340 miles long by about 240 wide. The first actual settlement by +Americans was made at Tumwater in 1845. Prior to this, the country was +known only to trappers and fur traders. Territorial government was +organized in 1853, and Washington was admitted as a State, November, +1889. The State is almost inexhaustibly rich in coal and lumber, and +has frequently been called the "Pennsylvania of the Pacific Coast." The +precious metals are also found in abundance in many districts. The +yield of wheat is prodigious. Apples, pears, apricots, plums, prunes, +peaches, cherries, grapes, and all berries flourish in the greatest +profusion. Certain it is that there is no other locality where trees +bear so early and surely as here, and where the fruit is of greater +excellence, and where there are so few drawbacks. At the Centennial +Exposition, Washington Territory fruit-tables were the wonder of +visitors and an attractive feature of the grand display. This Territory +carried off seventeen prizes in a competitive contest where +thirty-three States were represented. + +It is a pleasant journey of 150 miles through the pine forests from +Portland to Tacoma. Any one of the splendid steamers of the Union +Pacific may be taken for a trip to Victoria. Leaving Tacoma in the +morning, we sail over that noble sheet of water, Puget Sound. The hills +on either side are darkly green, the Sound widening slowly as we go. +Seattle is reached in three hours, a busy town of 35,000 people, full +of vim, push, and energy. Twenty million dollars' worth of property +went up in flame and smoke in Seattle's great fire of June 6, 1889. The +ashes were scarcely cold when her enthusiastic citizens began to build +anew, better, stronger, and more beautiful than before. A city of +brick, stone, and iron has arisen, monumental evidence of the energy, +pluck, and perseverance of the people, and of their fervent faith in +the future of Seattle. Then Port Townsend, with its beautiful harbor +and gently sloping bluffs, "the city of destiny," beyond all doubt, of +any of the towns on the Sound. Favored by nature in many ways, Townsend +has the finest roadstead and the best anchorage ground in these waters, +and this must tell in the end, when advantages for sea trade are +considered. Victoria, B.C., is reached in the evening, and we sleep +that night in Her Majesty's dominions. The next day may be spent very +pleasantly in driving and walking about the city, a handsome town of +14,000 people. + +[Illustration: CASCADES, FROM THE OREGON SHORE, COLUMBIA RIVER. On the +Union Pacific Ry.] + +A thorough system of macadamized roads radiates from Victoria, +furnishing about 100 miles of beautiful drives. Many of these drives +are lined with very handsome suburban residences, surrounded with lawns +and parks. Esquimalt, near Victoria, has a fine harbor. This is the +British naval station where several iron-clads are usually stationed. +There is also an extensive dry-dock, hewn out of the solid rock, +capacious enough to receive large vessels. + +In the evening after dinner, one can return to the steamer and take +possession of a stateroom, for the boat leaves at four in the morning. +When breakfast time comes we are well on our return trip, and moving +past Port Townsend again. The majestic straits of Fuca, through which +we have passed, are well worth a visit; it is a taste of being at sea +without any discomfort, for the water is without a ripple. As we steam +homeward there is a vision which has been described for all time by a +master hand. "One becomes aware of a vast, white shadow in the water. +It is a giant mountain dome of snow in the depths of tranquil blue. The +smoky haze of an Oregon August hid all the length of its lesser ridges +and left this mighty summit based upon uplifting dimness. Only its +splendid snows were visible high in the unearthly regions of clear, +noonday sky. Kingly and alone stood this majesty without any visible +comrade, though far to the north and south there were isolated +sovereigns. This regal gem the Christians have dubbed Mount Rainier, +but more melodious is its Indian name, 'Tacoma.'" + +A LEGEND OF TACOMA. + +Theodore Winthrop, in his own brilliant way, tells a quaint legend of +Tacoma, as related to him by a frowsy Siwash at Nisqually. "Tamanous," +among the native Indians of this section, is a vague and +half-personified type of the unknown and mysterious forces of Nature. +There is the one all-pervading Tamanous, but there are a thousand +emanations, each one a tamanous with a small "t." Each Indian has his +special tamanous, who thus becomes "the guide, philosopher, and friend" +of every Siwash. The tamanous, or totem, types himself as a salmon, a +beaver, an elk, a canoe, a fir-tree, and so on indefinitely. In some of +its features this legend resembles strongly the immortal story of Rip +Van Winkle; it may prove interesting as a study in folk-lore. + +"Avarice, O, Boston tyee!" quoth the Siwash, studying me with dusky +eyes, "is a mighty passion. Know you that our first circulating medium +was shells, a small perforated shell not unlike a very opaque quill +toothpick, tapering from the middle, and cut square at both ends. We +string it in many strands and hang it around the neck of one we +love--namely, each man his own neck. And with this we buy what our +hearts desire. Hiaqua, we call it, and he who has most hiaqua is wisest +and best of all the dwellers on the Sound. + +"Now, in old times there dwelt here an old man, a mighty hunter and +fisherman. And he worshipped hiaqua. And always this old man thought +deeply and communed with his wisdom, and while he waited for elk or +salmon he took advice within himself from his demon--he talked with +tamanous. And always his question was, 'How may I put hiaqua in my +purse?' But never had Tamanous revealed to him the secret. There loomed +Tacoma, so white and glittering that it seemed to stare at him very +terribly and mockingly, and to know of his shameful avarice, and how it +led him to take from starving women their cherished lip and nose jewels +of hiaqua, and give them in return tough scraps of dried elk-meat and +salmon. His own peculiar tamanous was the elk. One day he was hunting +on the sides of Tacoma, and in that serene silence his tamanous began +to talk to his soul. 'Listen!' said tamanous--and then the great secret +of untold wealth was revealed to him. He went home and made his +preparations, told his old, ill-treated squaw he was going for a long +hunt, and started off at eventide. The next night he camped just below +the snows of Tacoma, but sunrise and he struck the summit together, for +there, tamanous had revealed to him, was hiaqua--hiaqua that should +make him the greatest and richest of his tribe. He looked down and saw +a hollow covered with snow, save at the centre, where a black lake lay +deep in a well of purple rock, and at one end of the lake were three +large stones or monuments. Down into the crater sprang the miser, and +the morning sunshine followed him. He found the first stone shaped like +a salmon head; the second like a kamas root, and the third, to his +great joy, was the carven image of an elk's head. This was his own +tamanous, and right joyous was he at the omen, so taking his elk-horn +pick he began to dig right sturdily at the foot of the monument. At the +sound of the very first blow he made, thirteen gigantic otters came out +of the black lake and, sitting in a circle, watched him. And at every +thirteenth blow they tapped the ground with their tails in concert The +miser heeded them not, but labored lustily for hours. At last, +overturning a thin scale of rock, he found a square cavity filled to +the brim with hiaqua. + +"He was a millionaire. + +"The otters retired to a respectful distance, recognizing him as a +favorite of Tamanous. + +"He reveled in the treasure, exulting. Deep as he could plunge his arm, +there was still more hiaqua below. It was strung upon elk sinews, fifty +shells on a string. But he saw the noon was passed, so he prepared to +depart. He loaded himself with countless strings of hiaqua, by fifties +and hundreds, so that he could scarcely stagger along. Not a string did +he hang on the tamanous of the elk, or the salmon, or the kamas--not +one--but turned eagerly toward his long descent. At once all the otters +plunged back into the lake and began to beat the waters with their tails; +a thick, black mist began to rise threateningly. Terrible are the storms +in the mountains--and Tamanous was in this one. Instantly the fierce +whirlwind overtook the miser. He was thrown down and flung over icy +banks, but he clung to his precious burden. Utter night was around him, +and in every crash and thunder of the gale was a growing undertone which +he well knew to be the voice of Tamanous. Floating upon this undertone +were sharper tamanous voices, shouting and screaming, always sneeringly, +'Ha, ha, hiaqua!--ha, ha, ha!' Whenever the miser attempted to continue +his descent the whirlwind caught him and tossed him hither and thither, +flinging him into a pinching crevice, burying him to the eyes in a snow +drift, throwing him on jagged boulders, or lacerating him on sharp lava +jaws. But he held fast to his hiaqua. The blackness grew ever deeper and +more crowded with perdition; the din more impish, demoniac, and devilish; +the laughter more appalling; and the miser more and more exhausted with +vain buffeting. He at last thought to propitiate exasperated Tamanous, +and threw away a string of hiaqua. But the storm was renewed blacker, +louder, crueler than before. String by string he parted with his +treasure, until at the last, sorely wounded, terrified, and weak, with a +despairing cry, he cast from him the last vestige of wealth, and sank +down insensible. + +[Illustration: ROOSTER ROCK, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +"It seemed a long slumber to him, but at last he woke. He was upon the +very spot whence he started at morning. He felt hungry, and made a +hearty breakfast of the chestnut-like bulbs of the kamas root, and took +a smoke. Reflecting on the events of yesterday, he became aware of an +odd change in his condition. He was not bruised and wounded, as he +expected, but very stiff only, and his joints creaked like the creak of +a lazy paddle on the rim of a canoe. His hair was matted and reached a +yard down his back. 'Tamanous,' thought the old man. But chiefly he was +conscious of a mental change. He was calm and content. Hiaqua and +wealth seemed to have lost their charm for him. Tacoma, shining like +gold and silver and precious stones of gayest lustre, seemed a benign +comrade and friend. All the outer world was cheerful, and he thought +he had never wakened to a fresher morning. He rose and started on +his downward way, but the woods seemed strangely transformed since +yesterday; just before sunset he came to the prairie where his lodge +used to be; he saw an old squaw near the door crooning a song; she was +decked with many strings of hiaqua and costly beads. It was his wife; +and she told him he had been gone many, many years--she could not tell +how many; that she had remained faithful and constant to him, and +distracted her mind from the bitterness of sorrow by trading in kamas +and magic herbs, and had thus acquired a genteel competence. But little +cared the sage for such things; he, was rejoiced to be at home and at +peace, and near his own early gains of hiaqua and treasure buried in +a place of security. He imparted whatever he possessed--material +treasures or stores of wisdom and experience--freely to all the land. +Every dweller came to him for advice how to spear the salmon, chase the +elk, or propitiate Tamanous. He became the great medicine man of the +Siwashes and a benefactor to his tribe and race. Within a year after he +came down from his long nap on the side of Tacoma, a child, my father, +was born to him. The sage lived many years, revered and beloved, and on +his death-bed told this history to my father as a lesson and a warning. +My father dying, told it to me. But I, alas! have no son; I grow old, +and lest this wisdom perish from the earth, and Tamanous be again +obliged to interpose against avarice, I tell the tale to thee, O Boston +tyee. Mayst thou and thy nation not disdain this lesson of an earlier +age, but profit by it and be wise!" + +So far the Siwash recounted his legend without the palisades of Fort +Nisqually, and motioning, in expressive pantomime, at the close, that he +was dry with big talk and would gladly "wet his whistle." + +The town of Tacoma contains about 15,000 inhabitants, and is in a highly +prosperous condition. From here one may start on the grand Alaskan tour, +winding up through all the wonders of sound and strait, bay and ocean, to +the far North summerland--a trip of most entrancing interest. The return +from Tacoma to Portland may be made by either rail or boat. + +So much has already been said in preceding pages about Puget Sound that +it would seem the subject might be somewhat overdone. But it still +remains to be said that justice can never be done to the scenic glories +of this beautiful inland sea. The views from different points, and from +almost every point on the Sound, are of sublime grandeur. On the east are +the Cascade Mountains, ranging from 5,000 to 14,444 feet in height, Mount +Rainier for Tacoma, (as it is also called) being of the latter altitude, +and only third in height of the mountains of the United States. On the +west are the Olympic Mountains, the highest peaks of which reach up to +8,000 feet. Both ranges, brilliantly snow-crowned, are within view at the +same time from various points, and the scenery in its entirety, with its +continual changefulness and features of sublimity, can not be excelled. +Strangers and travelers who have visited every part of the world never +leave the deck of the steamers while going through the waters of the +Sound country. In noting a single feature, Mount Rainier, Senator George +F. Edmunds wrote as follows: "I have been through the Swiss mountains, +and am compelled to own that there is no comparison between the finest +effects exhibited there and what is seen in approaching this grand and +isolated mountain. I would be willing to go 500 miles again to see that +scene. The Continent is yet in ignorance of what will be one of the +grandest show places, as well as sanitariums. If Switzerland is rightly +called the play-ground of Europe, I am satisfied that around the base of +Mt. Rainier will become a prominent place of resort, not for America +only, but for the world besides, with thousands of sites for building +purposes that are nowhere excelled for the grandeur of the view that can +be obtained from them, with topographical features that would make the +most perfect system of drainage both possible and easy, and with a most +agreeable and health-giving climate." + +A more enthusiastic writer says: "Puget Sound scenery is the grandest +scenery in the world. One has here in combination the sublimity of +Switzerland, the picturesqueness of the Rhine, the rugged beauty of +Norway, the breezy variety of the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence, +or the Hebrides of the North Sea, the soft, rich-toned skies of Italy, +the pastoral landscape of England, with velvet meadows and magnificent +groves, massed with floral bloom, and the blending tints and bold color +of the New England Indian summer. Features with which nothing within the +vision of another city can be placed in comparison are the Olympic range +of mountains in front of Seattle, and the sublime snow peaks of the +Rainier, Baker, Adams, and St. Helens, with their glaciers and robes of +eternal white, and the great falls of the Snoqualmie, 280 feet high, near +by." + +[Illustration: MOUNT ST. HELENS, WASHINGTON, FROM NEAR MOUTH OF THE +WILLAMETTE RIVER. Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +The geography and topography of this sheet are alone a wonder and a +study. Glance upon the map. The elements of earth and water seem to +have struggled for dominion one over the other. The Strait of Juan de +Fuca and the Gulf of Georgia to the south narrow into Admiralty Inlet; +the inlet penetrates the very heart of the Territory, cutting the land +into most grotesque shapes, circling and twisting into a hundred minor +inlets, into which flow a hundred rivers, fed in their turn by myriads +of smaller creeks and bayous--a veritable network of lakes, streams, +peninsulas, and islands which, with the mountain ranges backing the +landscapes on either hand, can not fail to be picturesque in the +extreme. Here on the placid bosom of this inland sea, the pleasure +seeker can enjoy all the delights and exhilarating influences of ocean +travel without its inconveniences. No sea sickness, no proneness to +reflect on "to be or not to be," but, amid the bracing breezes, the +steady, easy glide of the commodious steamer over pleasant waters, +takes him through scenes as fair as the poet's brightest dreams. This +"Mediterranean of the Pacific" throughout its length and breadth is +adorned with heavily-wooded and fantastically-formed islands. The giant +firs are the tallest and straightest in the world. Here the "Great +Eastern" came for her masts, and here thousands of ships obtain their +spars yearly. + +To repeat, the scenery is indeed something unsurpassed. A ride over these +placid waters, in and out, around rocky headlands, among woody mountains, +along beautiful beaches and graceful tongues of velvety meadows--all +'neath the shadows of towering, snow-clad peaks, is a delight worth days +of travel to experience. It enraptures the artist and enthuses even +ordinarily prosy folks. There is no single feature wanting to make of +such places as Tacoma, Seattle, and Port Townsend, the most delightful +and agreeable watering places in the world. Surrounded by magnificent and +picturesque scenery, with beautiful drives and lovely bays for yachting +purposes, with splendid fishing and sport of every description to be had, +with a climate that would charm a misanthrope, why should they not become +the favorite resorts on the Great West Coast? These facts led to the +building of the magnificent Hotel Tacoma, at a cost of a quarter of a +million dollars. Other such caravansaries will follow, and in time Puget +Sound will be famous the world over for its incomparable attractions for +the health and pleasure seeker. + +The average traveler has but a faint idea of the wonderful resources of +this grand empire. Puget Sound has about 1,800 miles of shore line, and +all along this long stretch is one vast and almost unbroken forest of +enormous trees. The forests are so vast that, although the saw-mills have +been ripping 500,000,000 feet of lumber out of them every year for the +past ten years, the spaces made by these inroads seem no more than garden +patches. An official estimate places the amount of standing timber in that +area at 500,000,000,000 feet, or a thousand years' supply, even at the +enormous rate the timber is now being felled and sawed. + +In the vicinity of Olympia, the capital of Washington, are a number of +popular resorts for sportsmen and campers--beautiful lakes filled with +voracious trout, and streams alive with the speckled mountain beauties. +The forests abound in bear and deer, while grouse, pheasants, quail, and +water-fowl afford fine sport to the hunter of small game. + +THE NEW EMPIRE OF EASTERN WASHINGTON. + +The recent extensions of the Union Pacific System have aided in the most +important way the development of the richest and most fertile lands of +Eastern Washington. The great plains of the Upper Columbia, stretching +from the river away to the far north, are incomparably rich, the soil of +great depth and wondrous fertility, rainless harvests, and a luxuriance +of farm and garden produce which is almost tropical in its wealth. This +favored region has been for years known as the + +PALOUSE COUNTRY, + +And is reached from Portland via Pendleton, on the main line of the Union +Pacific Ry. From Pendleton to Spokane Falls on the north the soil is rich +beyond belief; a black, loamy deposit so deep that it seems well-nigh +inexhaustible. This heavy soil predominates in the valleys, and while the +uplands are not so rich, still immense crops of wheat are raised. For +hundreds of miles on this new division of the Union Pacific the country +is a perfect garden land of wheat and fruit, and these farms are often of +mammoth proportions. Here are 13,000,000 acres of land possessing all the +requirements and advantages of climate and soil for the making of one +vast wheat-field. The enormous yield of 7,000,000 bushels of wheat has +been harvested in one valley. + +The authentic figures of the crop yield in this splendid country seem +almost incredible. Fifty thousand bushels of wheat have been raised on +1,000 acres of land. As low as 35 bushels and as high as 74-1/4 bushels +of wheat to the acre have been harvested in this section. The average +covered seems to be from 47 to 55 bushels per acre, and no fertilizers +of any sort being required. The berry in its full maturity is very +solid, weighing from 65 to 69 pounds per bushel, this being from five +to nine pounds over standard weight. While wheat is the staple product, +oats are also grown, the yield being very heavy. Rye, barley, and flax +are also successfully cultivated. Clover, bunch-grass, and alfalfa grow +finely. + +In the growing of fruits and vegetables this grand empire of Eastern +Washington is quite unsurpassed. At one of the recent agricultural +fairs a farmer exhibited 109 varieties of fruits, vegetables, and +cereals. These included the best qualities of Yellow Nansemond sweet +potatoes, mammoth melons of all varieties, eggplant, sorghum and syrup +cane, broom-corn, tobacco, grapes, cotton, peanuts, and many other +things, some of which do not attain to so high a degree of excellence +elsewhere farther north than the Carolinas. Peaches, apples, and prunes +of superior quality delighted the eye. Peaches had been marketed +continuously, from, the same orchards, from the 15th of July to the +15th of October. There were hanging in the pavilion diplomas awarded at +the New Orleans Exposition to citizens in this valley for exhibits of +the best qualities and greatest varieties of corn, wheat, oats, barley, +and hops. + +The advantage to the farmer of rainless harvesting months is obvious. The +wheat is all harvested by headers, leaving the straw on the ground for its +enrichment. Thus binding, hauling, and sacking are largely dispensed with. +The grain, when threshed, is piled on the ground in jute sacks, saving the +expense of granaries and hauling to and from them. These jute sacks cost +for each bushel of grain about 3 cents, which is far less than farmers +elsewhere are subjected to in hauling their grain to and from granaries +and through a system of elevators until it reaches shipboard. + +Here, as well as in Western Washington, most vegetables grow to an +enormous size, and are of superior quality when compared with the same +varieties grown in the East. Those kinds that require much heat, as +melons, tobacco, peppers, egg-plants, etc., grow to great perfection. The +root crops--beets, carrots, parsnips, potatoes, turnips, etc.--yield +prodigiously on the fertile bottom-land soils, without much care besides +ordinary cultivation. The table beet soon gets too large for the +dinner-pot. It is nothing unusual for a garden beet to weigh ten pounds, +and they often grow to eighteen or twenty pounds' weight. Mangel wurzel, +the stock beet, sometimes grows to forty and fifty pounds' weight, if +given room and proper cultivation. They may easily be made to produce +twenty-five tons per acre on good soil. All other vegetables, such as +parsnips, carrots, peas, beans, tomatoes, onions, cabbages, celery, and +cauliflower, are perfectly at home on every farm of Eastern Washington. +Market gardening is becoming quite an important pursuit, and holds out +particularly high inducements to the farmer, because of the superb market +now afforded by the non-producing mineral and timber regions, easily +accessible in this and adjacent Territories. + +There are over 2,000 square miles of arable land in this magnificent +region, and there has never been a crop failure since its settlement. +Outside of Government lands prices range at from $4 to $10 per acre for +unimproved, and from $12 to $20 for improved lands. + +[Illustration: HORSE TAIL FALLS, ORE. +On the Union Pacific Ry.] + +Along the line of Union Pacific in this grand new empire will be found +many energetic, thriving young towns, all possessing those social and +educational facilities which are now a part of every Western village. +Pendleton, on the main line, is a wide-awake, bustling young city, +situated in a fine agricultural district. Walla Walla, Athena, Weston, +Waitsburg, Dayton, Pullman, Garfield, Latah, Tekoa, Colfax, Moscow, +Farmington, and Rockford are all thriving towns, and are already good +distributing centers. The last-named town enjoys the advantage of being +in the center of a fine lumber district, and within a circuit of five +miles from Rockford there are ten saw-mills, besides an inexhaustible +supply of mica. Crossing the border into Idaho, rich silver and lead +mines are found along the Coeur d'Alene River. + +Rockford is twenty-four miles from Spokane Falls, and has about 1,000 +population; its elevation is 2,440 feet. Four miles distant is the +boundary of the Coeur d'Alene Reservation, a lovely tract, thirty by +seventy miles in extent, embracing beautiful Coeur d'Alene Lake and the +three rivers, St. Joseph, St. Marys, and Coeur d'Alene, which empty +into it. There about 250 Indians on this reservation, and they enjoy +the proud distinction of being the only tribe who refuse Government +aid. They have been offered the usual rations, but preferred to remain +independent. They live in houses, farm quite extensively, and use all +kinds of improved farm machinery; many of them are quite wealthy. The +lake is one of the prettiest sheets of water on the continent; its +waters are full of salmon, and in the heavy pine woods are many +varieties of game, from quail to grizzly bear and elk. The town of +Rockford will in the near future assume importance as a tourist point, +both from its own healthy and picturesque location, and its nearness to +Coeur d'Alene Lake. A Government Commission is now at work on a +settlement with the Indians, whereby the whole or a part of this noble +domain will be thrown open to the public. The peculiar attractions of +Coeur d'Alene must in a short time render it a much sought for resort. + +SPOKANE FALLS + +Is one of those miracles possible only in the alert, aggressive West. +When Mr. Hayes was inaugurated it was a blank wilderness. Not a single +civilized being lived within a hundred miles of it. One day in 1878 a +white man came along in a "bull team," saw the wild rapids and the mighty +falls of the Spokane River, reflected on the history of St. Paul and +Minneapolis with their little Falls of St. Anthony, looked at the tide of +immigration just turning toward the farther Northwest, and concluded he +would sit right down where he was and wait for a city to grow around him. +This far-sighted pioneer is still living within earshot of those rumbling +falls, and they make a cheerful music for him. The city is there with +him, 22,000 people, and he can draw a check to-day good for $1,000,000. +For several years his eyes fell on nothing but gravel-beds and foamy +waters. Now, as he looks around, he sees mills and factories, railroad +lines to the north, south, east, and west, churches, theatres, +school-houses, costly dwellings and stores, paved streets, and all that +makes living easy and comfortable. The greater part of this has come +within his vision since 1883. But even then there was quite a village. +After this pioneer had spent a lonely year or two on his homestead, two +other men came along. They were friends, who, upon an outing, had chanced +to meet. They were captivated by the waterfall, and by what the pioneer +told them of the fine fanning lands in the adjacent country, and they +offered each to take a third of his holding. Then they began to +advertise, and to place adventurous farmers on homestead claims. They +were wise in their day and generation, and they worked harder to fill the +country with grain-producers than to sell real estate around the falls. +They soon had their reward. The merchants were quickly provided with +store-houses, rental values were kept low, every inducement was offered +that could possibly stimulate building activity, and in three years the +farming country was made to perceive that Spokane was its natural point +of entry and of shipment. The turbulent waters of the Spokane River, a +clear and beautiful mountain stream, were caught above the falls, and +directed wherever the factories and mills that had been established above +them required their services. Four large flouring-mills quickly took +advantage of the rich opportunity growing out of this unique situation. +From two enormous agricultural areas they are enabled to draw their +supplies of grain, flour, therefore, being manufactured for the farmers +more cheaply at Spokane: than anywhere else. This circumstance alone +exercised a large influence in giving the new town a hold upon the +country districts. These constitute more than a region--they are really a +grand division of the State, and form what is known as the Great Plain of +the Columbia River. + +THE COEUR D'ALENE MINES + +Have reached a high and profitable state of development. These mines +extend over a comparatively limited area. They are close together, and +their ores, producing gold, silver, and lead, are all similar. Their +output for the last three years has been quite remarkable, and has placed +the Coeur d'Alene district among the foremost lead-producing regions in +the country. Gold, associated with iron, and treated by the free-milling +process, is largely found in the northern part of the district, but the +greatest amount of tonnage is derived from the southern country, where +the Galena silver mines, a dozen or more in number, have been discovered. +That minerals in large quantity existed in this country has been known for +years. But the want of railroad facilities for a long while prevented any +serious effort to get at them. The matter of transportation is now laid +at rest, and within the last three years $1,000,000 has been spent in +development. The returns have already more than justified the investment. + +Tributary to Spokane, and reached by the various railroads now in +operation, are five other mining districts, at Colville, Okanagan, +Kootenai, Metaline, and Pend d'Oreille. They are in various stages of +development, but their wealth and availability have been clearly +ascertained. Spokane's population, in a degree greater than that of most +all these new cities, consists of young men and young women from the New +England and Middle States. They have enjoyed a remarkable and wholly +uninterrupted period of prosperity. Some of them have grown quickly and +immensely rich from real estate operations, but the great majority have +yet to realize on their investments because of the large sacrifices they +have made in building up the city. They are to-day in an admirable +position. As they have made money they have spent it; spent it in street +railroads, in the laying out of drives, in the building of comfortable +houses, in the establishment of electrical plants, and in a large number +of local improvements, every one of which has borne its part in making +the city attractive. + +WONDERFUL VITALITY. + +It has been well said of Spokane Falls, that "it was another +fire-devastated city that did not seem to know it was hurt." + +If Washington can stand the loss of millions of dollars in its four great +fires of the year, at Cheney, Ellensburg, Seattle, and Spokane, it is the +strongest evidence that its recuperative powers have solid backing. It +does seem to stand the loss, and actually thrive under it. + +The great fire at Spokane Falls on the 4th of August, 1889, burned most +of the business portion of the city. Four hundred and fifty houses of +brick, stone, and wood were destroyed, entailing a loss, according to the +computation of the local agent of R.G. Dun & Co., of about $4,500,000. + +The insurance in the burned district amounted to $2,600,000. + +No people were ever in better condition to meet disaster, and none ever +met it with braver hearts or with quicker and more resolute determination +to survive the blow. + +The city was in the midst of a period of marvelous prosperity. Its +population was increasing rapidly, many fine buildings were in process of +construction, its trade was extending over a vast region of country which +was being penetrated by new railroads centering within its limits, and +there were flowing to it the rich fruits of half a dozen prosperous +mining districts. + +[Illustration: ONEONTA GORGE, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +Its working people were all employed at good wages, and money was +abundant with all classes. + +Hardly had the sun of the day following the fire risen upon the scene of +smoking desolation, when preparations began for rebuilding. It was felt +at once that the city would be rebuilt more substantially and more +handsomely than before. + +The rebuilding of Spokane commenced on a very extensive scale; the city +will be entirely restored within twelve months, and far more attractively +than ever before. The class of buildings erected are of a very superior +character. The new Opera House has been modeled after the Broadway +Theatre, New York; the new Hotel Spokane, a structure creditable not only +to the city, but to the entire Pacific Northwest; five National Bank +buildings, at a cost of $100,000 each; upon the burned district have +arisen buildings solid in substance, and beautiful architecturally, +varying from five to seven stories in height, and costing all the way +from $60,000 to $300,000. This sturdy young giant of the North arises +from her ashes stronger, more attractive, more substantial, than before. +And there is abundant reason for solid faith in the future of Spokane +Falls. + +It is the metropolis of a region 200,000 square miles in extent, +including 50,000 square miles of Washington, or all that portion east of +the Cascade Mountains, more than half of Idaho, the northern and eastern +portions of Oregon, a large part of Montana, and as much of British +Columbia as would make a State as large as New York. + +It is the distributing point for the Coeur d'Alene, the Colville, the +Kootenai, and the Okanagan mining districts, all of which are in a +prosperous condition, and all of which are yielding rich and growing +tributes of trade. + +It has adjacent to it the finest wheat-growing country in the world, +producing from 30 to 60 bushels per acre. + +It has adjacent to it a country equally rich in the production of fruits +and vegetables. + +It has adjacent to it the finest meadow lands between the Cascade and +Rocky Mountains. + +It has adjacent to it extensive grazing lands, on which are hundreds of +thousands of cattle, sheep, and horses. + +It has, adjacent to it, on Lakes Pend d'Oreille and Coeur d'Alene, +inexhaustible quantities of white pine, yellow pine, cedar and tamarack, +the manufacturing of which into lumber is one of the important industries +of the city, and a source of great future income. + +It has a power in the falls of the Spokane River second to none in the +United States, and capable of supplying construction room and power for +300 different mills and manufactories. The entire electric lighting plant +of the city, the cable railway system, the electric railway system, the +machinery for the city water works, and all the mills and factories of +the city--the amount of wheat which was last year ground into flour +exceeding 20,000 tons--are now operated by the power from the falls. One +company alone, the Washington Water Power Company, having a capital of +$1,000,000, is now spending upward of $300,000 in the construction of +flumes and other improvements for the accommodation of new mills and +factories. + +Most fortunately for the city, all the milling properties and +improvements on the falls and along the river were saved from the fire. + +The city has a water-works system which cost nearly half a million +dollars, and which is capable of supplying 12,000,000 gallons daily, or +as much as the supply of Minneapolis when it had a population of 100,000, +or as much as the present supply of Denver with a population of 120,000, +and more than the City of Portland, Oregon, with a population of 60,000. + +A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SPOKANE FALLS. + +It requires no very profound knowledge of Western geography, no very +lengthy study of the State of Washington, to enable anyone to understand +without difficulty some of the minor reasons why Spokane Falls should +become a great and important city, the metropolis of a vast surrounding +country. A glance at the map will show the mountain range that extends up +through the Idaho Panhandle, and then along the British Columbia frontier, +to the east and north of the city. These mountains are incalculably rich +in ores of all kinds, and would amply suffice to make a Denver of Spokane +Falls, even if she had no other natural resources to draw from. The +Spokane River is the outlet of Lake Coeur d'Alene, a sheet of water sixty +miles by six, which is fed by the St. Joseph, St. Mary and Coeur d'Alene +Rivers, and which flows through a vast plain until it empties its waters +into the Columbia, the Mississippi of the Pacific Coast. From its point +of junction with the Spokane, the Columbia makes a big bend in its course +until the Snake River is reached, when it turns once more westward, and +flows on to empty into the Pacific Ocean. South of the city, stretching +westward for some distance from the mountains, and extending in a +southerly direction to the Clearwater and Snake Rivers, is a vast country +comprising millions of acres, through which the Palouse River and its +tributary streams meander, and which is known as the Palouse Valley, a +country of unlimited agricultural resources. In the center of all this +immense territory is located Spokane Falls, like the hub in the center of +a wheel. The word immense is not used unwittingly, for the mountains and +plains and valleys make up a country that in Europe would be called a +nation, and in New England would form a State. Only a far-off corner of +the Union, it may seem to some readers, yet there are powerful empires +which possess less natural resources than it can call its own. The city +itself lies on both sides of the Spokane River, at the point where that +stream, separated by rocky islands into five separate channels, rushes +onward and downward, at first being merely a series of rapids, and then +tumbling over the rocks in a number of beautiful and useful waterfalls, +until the several streams unite once again for a final plunge of sixty +feet, making a fall of 157 feet in the distance of half a mile. This +waterfall, with its immense power, would alone make a city; engineers +have estimated its force at 90,000 horse-power, and it is so distributed +that it can be easily utilized. + +[Illustration: A FISH WHEEL, COLUMBIA RIVER. On the Union Pacific Ry.] + + * * * * * + +_Fourth Tour_.--To + +ALASKA. + +The native islanders called the mainland "Al-ay-ek-sa," which signifies +"great country," and the word has been corrupted into "Alaska." This +immense empire, it will be remembered, was sold by Russia to the United +States October 18, 1867, for $7,500,000. The country was discovered by +Vitus Behring in 1741. Alaska has an area of 578,000 square miles, and is +nearly one-fifth as large as all the other States and Territories +combined. It is larger than twelve States the size of New York. + +The best time to visit Alaska is from May to September. The latter month +is usually lovely, and the sea beautifully smooth, but the days begin to +grow short. The trip occupies about twenty-five days. + +As the rainfall in Alaska is usually very large, it naturally follows +that an umbrella is a convenient companion. A gossamer for a lady and a +mackintosh for a gentleman, and heavy shoes, and coarse, warm and +comfortable clothing for both should be provided. + +There are no "Palace" hotels in Alaska. One will have no desire to remain +over there a trip. The tourist goes necessarily when and where the steamer +goes, will have an opportunity to see all there is of note or worth seeing +in Southeastern Alaska. The steamer sometimes goes north as far as +Chilcat, say up to about the 58th degree of north latitude. The pleasure +is not so much in the stopping as in the going. One is constantly passing +through new channels, past new islands, opening up new points of interest, +until finally a surfeit of the grand and magnificent in nature is reached. + +A correspondent of a western journal signing himself "Emerald" has +written a description of this Alaskan tour in September, 1888. It is so +charmingly done, so fresh, so vivid, and so full of interesting detail, +that it is given herewith entire: + +ON STEAMSHIP "GEORGE W. ELDER," + +PUGET SOUND, September, 1888. + +We have all thought we were fairly appreciative of the wealth and wonders +of Uncle Sam's domain. At Niagara we have gloried in the belief that all +the cataracts of other lands were tame; but we changed our mind when we +stood on the brink of Great Shoshone Falls. In Yellowstone the proudest +thought was that all the world's other similar wonders were commonplace; +and at Yosemite's Inspiration Point the unspeakable thrill of awe and +delight was richly heightened by the grand idea that there was no such +majesty or glory beyond either sea. But after all this, we now know that +it yet remains for the Alaskan trip to rightly round out one's +appreciation and admiration of the size and grandeur of our native land. + +Some of our most delighted _voyageurs_ are from Portland, Maine. When +they had journeyed some 1,500 miles to Omaha they imagined themselves +at least half way across our continent. Then, when they had finished +that magnificent stretch of some 1,700 miles more from Omaha to +Portland, Oregon, in the palace cars of the Union Pacific, they were +quite sure of it. Of course, they confessed a sense of mingled +disappointment and eager anticipation when they learned that they were +yet less than half way. They learned what is a fact--that the extreme +west coast of Alaska is as far west of Sitka as Portland, Maine, is +east of Portland, Oregon, and the further fact that San Francisco lacks +4,000 mile's of being as far west as Uncle Sam's "Land's End," at +extreme Western Alaska. It is a great country; great enough to contain +one river--the Yukon--about as large as the Mississippi, and a coast +line about twice as long as all the balance of the United States. It is +twelve times as large as the State of New York, with resources that +astonish every visitor, and a climate not altogether bad, as some would +have it. The greatest trouble is that during the eighteen years it has +been linked to our chain of Territories it has been treated like a +discarded offspring or outcast, cared for more by others than its +lawful protector. But, like many a refugee, it is carving for itself a +place which others will yet envy. But, to + +OUR TRIP. + +There are seven in our party, mainly from Chicago. After a week of +delightful mountaineering at Idaho Springs, in Platte Cañon, and other +Union Pacific resorts in Colorado, we indulged in that delicious plunge +at Garfield Beach, Salt Lake, and, en route to Portland over the Union +Pacific Ry., quaffed that all but nectar at Soda Springs, Idaho, and +dropped off a day to take a peep, at Shoshone Falls, which, in all +seriousness, have attractions of which even our great Niagara can not +boast. We found that glorious dash down through the palisades of the +Columbia, and the sail, through the entrancing waterways of Puget Sound, +a fitting prelude to our recent Alaskan journey. + +The Alaskan voyage is like a continuous dream of pleasure, so placid and +quiet are the waters of the landlocked sea and so exquisitely beautiful +the environment. The route keeps along the east shore of Vancouver Island +its entire length, through the Gulf of Georgia, Johnstone strait, and out +into Queen Charlotte Sound, where is felt the first swell of old ocean, +and our staunch steamship "Elder" was rocked in its cradle for about four +hours. Oftentimes we seemed to be bound by mountains on every side, with +no hope of escape; but the faithful deck officer on watch would give his +orders in clear, full tones that brought the bow to some passage leading +to the great beyond. In narrow straits the steamer had to wait for the +tide; then would she weave in and out, like a shuttle in a loom, among +the buoys, leaving the black ones on the left and the red ones on the +right, and ever and anon they would be in a straight line, with the +wicked boulder-heads visible beneath the surface or lifting their savage +points above, compelling almost a square corner to be turned in order to +avoid them. At such times the passengers were all on deck, listening to +the captain's commands, and watching the boat obey his bidding. + +From Victoria to Tongas Narrows the distance is 638 miles, and here was +the first stop for the tourists. The event here was going ashore in +rowboats, and in the rain, only to see a few dirty Indians--a foresight +of what was to follow--and a salmon-packing house not yet in working +order. + +From Tongas Narrows to Fort Wrangel, thousands of islands fill the water, +while the mainland is on the right and Prince of Wales Island on the +extreme left. + +FORT WRANGEL. + +Like all Alaska towns, it is situated at the base of lofty peaks along +the water's edge at the head of moderately pretty harbors. It seems to be +the generic home of storms, and the mountains, the rocks, the buildings, +and trees, and all, show the weird workings of nature's wrath. In 1863 it +was a thriving town where miners outfitted for the mines of the Stikeen +river and Cassian mines of British Columbia; but that excitement has +temporarily subsided, and the $150,000 government buildings are falling +in decay. The streets are filled with debris, and everything betokens the +ravages of time. The largest and most grotesque totem poles seen on the +trip here towered a height of fifty feet. Those poles represent a history +of the family and the ancestry as far as they can trace it. If they are of +the Wolf tribe a huge wolf is carved at the top of the pole, and then on +down with various signs to the base, the great events of the family and +the intermarriages, not forgetting to give place to the good and bad gods +who assisted them. The genealogy of a tribe is always traced back through +the mother's side. The totem poles are sometimes very large, perhaps four +feet at the base. When the carving is completed they are planted firmly in +front of the hut, there to stay until they fall away. At the lower end, +some four feet from the ground, there is an opening into the already +hollowed pole, and in this are put the bones of the burned bodies of the +family. It is only the wealthier families who support a totem pole, and +no amount of money can induce an Indian to part with his family tree. + +[Illustration: SITKA HARBOR, ALASKA. +Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +THE GRAVES + +of those not having totems are found in clusters, or scattered on the +mountain sides, or anywhere convenience dictates. The bones are put in a +box with all the belongings of the deceased, and then deposited anywhere. +The natives are exceedingly superstitious and jealous in their care of the +dead, and would sooner die than molest or steal from a grave. That +tourists who are supposed to be civilized, refined, and Christianized +should steal from them is a crime which should never be tolerated, as it +was among the passengers of our steamer. + +The natives have a belief that all bodies cremated turn into ravens, and +that probably accounts to them for the endless number of those birds in +Alaska. Ravens are sacred birds to them, and are never molested in +anyway. There are other methods of disposing of the dead in different +parts of Alaska. The bones are sometimes put in a canoe and raised high +in the air on straddles; again, in trees above the reach of prowling +animals, or set adrift in a discarded canoe. + +JUNEAU--THE TREADWELL MINE. + +After leaving Wrangel the steamer anchored off Salmon Bay to lighter +eighty tons of salt for fishermen, then on to Juneau and Douglas Islands. +Here was the same general appearance of location, the gigantic background +of densely wooded mountains, the tide-washed streets, on broken slopes, +the dirty native women with their wares for sale, with prices advanced +200 per cent, since the steamer whistled, and behind them their stern +male companions, goading them on to make their sales, and stealthily +kicking them in their crouched positions if they came down on their +prices to an eager but economical tourist. + +Juneau is the only town of any importance on the mainland. It has arisen +to that dignity through the quality of its mines, and it is now the +mining centre of Alaska. Here we found Edward I. Parsons, of San +Francisco, erecting an endless-rope tramway for conducting ores to a +ten-stamp mill now under construction. Mr. Parsons has had large +experience in this line, and his tales of "Tramway Life" in Mexico are +intensely thrilling and full of interest. It is to be hoped that the good +people of Juneau will see to it that he does not have to eat the native +dishes, as he did in the land of the greasers. The festive dog is all +right in his place, but rather revolting to an epicure. + +The famous Treadwell gold mine lies across the bay, on Douglas Island. It +is noted, not so much for its richness per ton, but for its vast extent. +The 120-stamp mill makes such a deafening noise that there is no fear +that the curious minded will cause employés to waste any time answering +questions, for nothing can be heard but the rise and fall of the great +crushers and the crunching of the ores. The ore is so plentiful that an +addition of 120 stamps is being added to the present capacity. The hole +blasted by the miners looks like the crater of a huge volcano without the +circling top, and sloping down to an apex from which is the tunnel to the +mill. The Treadwell yields about $200,000 per month, and will double that +when the mill is completed. + +There are many pleasant homes in Juneau, and some of its society people +are charming indeed. The business houses carry some large stocks of +goods, and outfitting for the interior mines in the Yukon country is all +done at this place. There are two weekly papers, one the _Mining Record_, +an eight-page, bright, newsy paper which deserves a liberal support. + +One of the most novel and grotesque features of the entire trip was a +dance given by the Indians at + +A "POTLATCH," + +a term applied to any assemblage of good cheer, although in its primary +sense it means a gift. A potlatch is given at the outset, or during the +progress of some important event, such as the building of a new house, +confirming of a sub-chief, or celebrating any good fortune, either of +peace or war. In this instance, a sub-chief was building a new house, and +the frame work was inclosed in rough boards with no floor laid. There is +never but one entrance to an Indian hut. This is in front, and elevated +several feet from the ground, so that you must go down from the door-sill +inside as well as out. No windows were yet in the building, and it was +really in a crude state. These grand festivities last five days, and this +was the second day of merry-making. + +There are two tribes at Juneau, located at each extreme of the town. The +water was black with canoes coming to the feast and dance, bringing gifts +to the tyhee, who, in return, gives them gifts according to their wealth, +and a feast of boiled rice and raisins and dog-meat. The richest men of +the tribe dressed, in the rear of the building, in the wildest and most +fantastic garbs, some in skins of wild animals. There was a full panoply +of blankets, feathers, guns, swords, knives, and, as a last resort, an +old broom was covered with a scarlet case. Jingling pendant horns added +to their usual order, and the savage faces were painted with red and +black in hideous lines. Anything their minds could shape was rigged for a +head-dress, and finally, when all was ready, they ran with fiendish yells +toward the beach, some twenty yards, and there behind a canvas facing the +water they began their strange dance. + +Only one squaw was with them, and she was the wife of the tyhee (chief) +giving the feast. The medicine man had a large bird with white breast, +called the loon. While dancing he picked the white feathers and scattered +them on the heads of the others. The other squaws were sitting on the +ground in long rows in front of the canoes reaching to the water's edge, +about 200 feet below. + +Their music was a wild shout or croon by all the tribe, and the dancing +is a movement in any irregular way, or a swaying motion given to the time +given by the voices, and they only advanced a few inches in an hour's +time. + +The tribe approaching in canoes had their representative men dressed in +the same styles, only gayer, if possible. When the canoes glided onto the +beach, four abreast, it was the signal to drop the canvas hiding the host +and party, and advance a little distance to meet them. Then they broke +ranks and made way for the visitors to approach the house with their +gifts of blankets or other valuables for the tyhee. Most of the Indians +convert their riches into blankets. These nations, seen by the tourist in +an ordinary trip to Alaska, seem very much the same in all points visited. +None of them are poor, all have some money, and many have + +WEALTH COUNTED BY THOUSANDS. + +To be sure, some of them are in a measure Christianized, but the odors +arising from the homes of the best of them are such as a civilized nose +never scented before. Rancid grease, dried fish, pelts, decaying animals, +and human filth made the strongest perfume known to the commercial or +social world. + +[Illustration: GRANVILLE CHANNEL, ALASKA. Reached via the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +The squaws, if they were in mourning or in love, would have their faces +painted black with oil and tar. Then again, a great many wear a wooden or +ivory pin thrust through the lip just below the fleshy part. It is worn +for ornament, the same as ear-rings or nose-rings, and is called a +labret. The missionary work done among them is a commendable one, but it +seems a hopeless task. Their houses are always built with one object in +view, to be able to tie the canoe to the front door. A long row of huts +just above high-tide line can always be safely called a rancherie in that +country. Their food is brought by the tide to their very doors, and the +timbered mountains abound in wild game, and offer ample fuel for the +cutting. + +Chilcot, or Pyramid Harbor, is about twelve hours run from Juneau, and it +is here the famous Chilcot blanket is made from the goat's wool, woven by +hand, and dyed by native dyes, and worked from grotesque patterns. Here, +also, are two of the largest salmon canneries in Alaska, and here, +indeed, were we in the + +LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. + +The hours passed quickly by as the supposed night wore away. At midnight +the twilight was so bright that one could read a newspaper easily. Then +the moon shone in the clear sky with all regal splendor until 3.30 in the +morning, when old Sol again put in his claims for admission. He lifted his +golden head above the snowy peaks, and spirited away the uncertain light +of unfolding dawn by drawing the curtains of the purpling east, and +sending floods of radiance upon the entire world. It was a sight never to +be forgotten, if seen but once in a lifetime. + +Onward once again when the tide was in, and our next awakening was on the +grand glacier fields. The greatest sight of the entire trip, or of any +other in America, now opened out before many eager eyes. For several +days, icebergs had been seen sailing along on the smooth surface from the +great glaciers, and speeding to the southern seas like phantom ships. As +the ship neared the bay, these huge bergs increased in size and number, +with such grotesque and weird shapes, that the mind is absorbed in +shaping turrets, ghosts, goblins, and the like, each moment developing +more and more of things unearthly, until the heart and eyes seem bursting +with the strain, when suddenly a great roar, like the shock of an +explosion of giant powder, turns the eyes to the parent glacier to see +the birth of these unnatural forms. They break from the icy wall with a +stupendous crash, and fall into the water with such force as to send our +great ship careening on her side when the swell from the disturbed waters +strikes her. + +The Muir glacier is the one that occupies the most attention, as it is +the most accessible to tourists. It rises to a perpendicular height of +350 feet, and stretches across the entire head of the Glacier Bay, which +is estimated from three to five miles in width. The Muir and Davidson +glaciers are two arms of that great Ice field extending more than 400 +miles in length, covering more area + +THAN ALL SWITZERLAND, + +and any one of the fifteen subdivisions of the glacial stream is as large +as the Great Rhone glacier. + +Underlying this great ice field is that glacial river which bears these +mountains of ice on its bosom to the ocean. With a roar like distant +artillery, or an approaching thunder-storm, the advancing walls of this +great monster split and fall into the watery deep, which has been sounded +to a depth of some 800 feet without finding anchor. + +The glacial wall is a rugged, uneven mass, with clefts and crevices, +towering pinnacles and domes, higher than Bunker Hill monument, cutting +the air at all angles, and with a stupendous crash sections break off +from any portion without warning and sink far out of sight. Scarcely two +minutes elapse without a portion falling from some quarter. The marble +whiteness of the face is relieved by lines of intense blue, a +characteristic peculiar to the small portions as well as the great. + +Going ashore in little rowboats, the vast area along the sandy beach was +first explored, and it was, indeed, like a fairy land. There were acres +of grottoes, whose honey-combed walls were most delicately carved by the +soft winds and the sunlight reflections around and in the arches of ice, +such as are never seen except in water, ice, and sky. + +MOUNTAINS OF ICE, + +remnants of glaciers, along the beach, stood poised on one point, or +perchance on two points, and arched between. These icebergs were dotted +with stones imbedded; great bowls were melted out and filled with water, +and little cups made of ice would afford you a drink of fresh water on +the shore of this salt sea. + +At five o'clock in the morning, with the sun kissing the cold majestic +glacier into a glad awakening from its icy sleep, the ascent was begun. +Too eager to be among the first to see the top, many started without +breakfast, while others chose the wiser part, and waited to be physically +fortified. + +The ascent is not so difficult as it is dangerous. There is no trail and +no guide, and many a step had to be retraced to get across or around some +bottomless fissure. For some distance the ground seemed quite solid. Soon +it was discovered that there was but a thin covering of dirt on the solid +ice below; but anon in striking the ground with the end of an alpine stick +it would prove to be but an inch of ice and dirt mixed, and a dark abyss +below which we could not fathom. It is to be hoped, for the good of +future tourists, that there are not many such places, or that they may +soon be exposed so they can be avoided. Reaching the top after a tedious +and slippery climb, there was a long view of icy billows, as if the sea +had suddenly congealed amid a wild tempestuous storm. Deep chasms +obstructed the way on all sides, and a misstep or slip would send one +down the blue steps where no friendly rope could rescue, and only the +rushing water could be heard. To view the solid phalanxes of icy floes, +as they fill the mountain fastnesses and imperceptibly march through the +ravines and force their way to the sea, fills one with awe indescribable. +The knowledge that the ice is moving from beneath one's feet thrills one +with a curious sensation hard to portray. + +Below, it seems like the constant wooing of the sea that wins the +offering from this wealth of purity, instead of the voluntary act of this +giant of the Arctic zone. + +For twenty-four hours the awful grandeur of these scenes was gloried in, +when Captain Hunter gave the order to draw the anchor and steam away. The +whistles call the passengers back to the steamer, where they were soon +comparing specimens, viewing instantaneous photographs, hiding bedraggled +clothing, casting away tattered mufflers, and telling of hair-breadth +escapes from peril and death. Many a tired head sought an early pillow, +and floated away in dreams of ghoulish icebergs, until the call for +breakfast disclosed to opening eyes that the boat was anchored in the + +BEAUTIFUL HARBOR OF SITKA. + +The steamer's whistle is the signal for a holiday in all Alaska ports, +and Sitka is no exception to the rule. Six o'clock in the morning, but +the sleepy town had awakened to the fact of our arrival, and the +inhabitants were out in force to greet friends or sell their canoes. +There are some 1,500 people living in Sitka, including all races. The +harbor is the most beautiful a fertile brain can imagine. Exquisitely +moulded islands are scattered about in the most enchanting way, all +shapes and sizes, with now and then a little garden patch, and ever +verdant with native woods and grasses and charming rockeries. As far out +as the eye can reach the beautiful isles break the cold sea into +bewitching inlets and lure the mariner to shelter from evil outside waves. + +The village nestles between giant mountains on a lowland curve surrounded +by verdure too dense to be penetrated with the eye, and too far to try to +walk--which is a good excuse for tired feet. The first prominent feature +to meet the eye on land is a large square house, two stories high, +located on a rocky eminence near the shore, and overlooking the entire +town and harbor. Once it was a model dwelling of much pretension, with +its spacious apartments, hard-wood six-inch plank floors, +elaborately-carved decorations, stained-glass windows, and its amusement +and refreshment halls. All betoken the former elegance of the Russian +governor's home, which was supported with such pride and magnificence as +will never be seen there again. The walls are crumbling, the windows +broken, and the old oaken stairways will soon be sinking to earth again, +and its only life will be on the page of history. + +[Illustration: DEVIL'S THUMB, ALASKA. +Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +The mission-school hospital, chapel, and architectural buildings occupied +much of the tourists' time, and some were deeply interested. There are +eighteen missionaries in Sitka, under the Presbyterian jurisdiction, +trying to educate and Christianize the Indians. They are doing a noble +work, but it does seem a hopeless task when one goes among the Indian +homes, sees the filth, smells the vile odors, and studies the native +habits. + +These Indians, like the other tribes, are not poor, but all have more or +less money. + +MANY ARE RICH, + +having more than $20,000 in good hard cash, yet the squalor in which they +live would indicate the direst poverty. + +The stroll to Indian river, from which the town gets its water supply, is +bewitching. The walk is made about six feet through an evergreen forest, +the trees arching overhead, for a distance of two miles, and is close to +the bay, and following the curve in a most picturesque circle. The water +is carried in buckets loaded on carts and wheeled by hand, for horses are +almost unknown in Alaska. There are probably not more than half a dozen +horses and mules in all Alaska--not so much because of the expense of +transportation and board, as lack of roads and the long, dark days and +months of winter, when people do not go out but very little. All the +packing is done in all sections of Alaska by natives carrying the packs +and supplies on their backs. + +Sitka's most interesting object is the old Greek church, located in the +middle of the town, and also in the middle of the street. Its form is +that of a Greek cross, with a copper-covered dome, surmounted by a +chime-bell tower. The inside glitters with gold and rare paintings, gold +embroidered altar cloths and robes; quaint candelabra of solid silver are +suspended in many nooks, and an air of sacred quiet pervades the whole +building. There were no seats, for the Russians remain standing during +the worship. Service is held every Sabbath by a Russian priest in his +native language, and the church is still supported by the Russian +Government. Indeed, Russia does more for the advancement of religion than +does our own Government for Alaska. + +The walk through the Indian ranch was but a repetition of the other +towns, only that they were wealthier and uglier, if possible, than the +other tribes. The Hydahs are very powerfully built, tall, large boned, +and stout. + +Two days were spent in visiting and trafficking with these people. Then +the anchor came up, and soon a silver trail like a huge sea serpent moved +among the green isles, and followed us once more--now on the homeward +sail. + +But one new place of importance was made on the home trip, and that was at + +KILLISNOO. + +When the steamer arrived, the evening after leaving Sitka, the city +policeman met us at the wharf and invited us to visit his hut. Of course, +he was a native, who expected to sell some curios. Over his door was the +following: + + "By the Governor's commission, + And the company's permission, + I am made the grand tyhee + Of this entire illahee. + + "Prominent in song and story, + I've attained the top of glory. + As Saginaw I am known to fame, + Jake is but my common name." + +The time when he attained his fame and glory must have been when he and +his wife were both drunk one night, and he put the handcuffs on his wife +and could not get them off, and she had to go to Sitka to be released. He +appears in at least a dozen different suits while the steamer is in port, +and stands ready to be photographed every time. + +Killisnoo used to be a point where 100,000 barrels of herring oil were +put up annually. The industry is now increasing again. + +NATURAL WEALTH. + +And this reminds me that I am almost neglecting a reference to Alaska's +vast resources in forests, metals, furs, and fish. There are 300,000,000 +of acres densely wooded with spruce, red and yellow cedar, Oregon pine, +hemlock, fir, and other useful varieties of timber. Canoes are made from +single trees, sixty feet long, with eight-feet beams. + +Gold, silver, lead, iron, coal, and copper are encountered in various +localities. Though but little prospected or developed, Alaska is now +yielding gold at the rate of about $2,000,000 per year. There is a +respectable area of island and mainland country well adapted to +stock-raising, and the production of many cereals and vegetables. The +climate of much of the coast country is milder than that of Colorado, and +stock can feed on the pastures the year round. + +But, if Alaska had no mines, forests, or agriculture, its seal and salmon +fisheries would remain alone an immense commercial property. The salmon +are found in almost any part of these northern waters where fresh water +comes in, as they always seek those streams in the spawning season. There +are different varieties that come at stated periods and are caught in +fabulous numbers, sometimes running solid ten feet deep, and often +retarding steamers when a school of them is overtaken. At Idaho Inlet Mr. +Van Gasken brought up a seine for the Ancon tourists containing 350 salmon +for packing. At nearly every port the steamer landed there was either one +or more canning or salt-packing establishments for salmon. Of these, +11,500,000 pounds were marketed last year. + +Besides the salmon there is the halibut, black and white cod, rock cod, +herring, sturgeon, and many other fish, while the waters are whipped by +porpoises and whales in large numbers all along the way. Governor +Swineford estimates the products of the Alaska fisheries last year at +$3,000,000. + +THE SEAL FISHERIES + +are still 1,800 miles west of Sitka. St. Paul and St. George Islands are +the best breeding places of the seals, sea lions, sea otter, and walrus. +These islands are in a continuous fog in summer, and are swept by icy +blasts in winter. There are many interesting facts connected with these +islands and the habits of these phocine kindred, but space is limited. +Suffice that 100,000 seals are killed each year for commercial purposes. +Over 1,000,000 seal pups are born every year, and when they leave for +winter quarters they go in families and not altogether. An average seal +is about six feet long, but some are found eight feet long and weigh from +400 to 800 pounds. The work of catching is all done between the middle of +June and the first of August. The fur company are supposed to pay our +Government $2 for each pelt. These hides are at once shipped to London to +be dyed and made ready to be put on the market in the United States. + +In fact, Alaska seems full to overflowing with offerings to seekers of +fortune or pleasure. Its coast climate is mild, with no extreme heat, +because of the snow-clad peaks which temper the humid air, and never +extreme cold, because of the Japan current that bathes its mossy slopes +and destroys the frigid wave before it does its work. + +Three thousand miles along this inland sea has revealed scenes of +matchless grandeur--majestic mountains (think of snow-crowned St. Elias, +rising 19,500 feet from the ocean's edge), the mightiest glaciers, +world's of inimitable, indescribable splendor. It is a trip of a +lifetime. There is none other like it, and our party unanimously resolves +that the tourist who fails to take it misses very much. + + * * * * * + +_Fifth Tour_.--From Portland to San Francisco by steamer is one of the +most enjoyable trips offered the tourist in point of safety and comfort, +and the service is exceptionally fine. + +The steamers "Oregon," "Columbia," and "State of California" are powerful +iron steamers, built expressly for tourist travel between Portland and San +Francisco. The traveler will find this fifty-hour ocean voyage thoroughly +enjoyable; the sea is uniformly smooth, no greater motion than the long +swell of the Pacific, and the boats are models of neatness and comfort. +It affords a grand opportunity to run down the California coast, always +in sight of land, and derive the invigorating exhilaration of an ocean +trip without any of its discomforts. Among the many points of interest to +be seen are the picturesque Columbia River Bar, the beautiful Ocean Beach +at Clatsop, the towering heights of Cape Hancock, the lonely Mid-Ocean +Lighthouse at Tillamook Rock, the historical Rogue River Reef, Cape +Mendocino, Humboldt Bay, Point Arena, and last, but not least, the +world-renowned Golden Gate of San Francisco. + +[Illustration: MOONLIGHT AT THE OLD BLOCK HOUSE, COLUMBIA RIVER. On the +Union Pacific Ry.] + +The steamships of this company are all new, modern-designed iron vessels, +supplied with steam steering apparatus, electric light and bells, and all +improved nautical appliances. The state-rooms, cabins, salons, etc., are +elaborately furnished throughout, the whole presenting an unrivaled scene +of luxurious ocean life. + +The advantages of this charming ocean trip to the tourist are most +obvious; there is the healthful air of the grand old Pacific Ocean, +complete freedom from dust, heat, cinders, and all the discomforts which +one meets in midsummer railway travel. + + * * * * * + +STANDARD PUBLICATIONS BY THE PASSENGER DEPARTMENT OF THE UNION PACIFIC +RAILWAY. + +The Passenger Department of the Union Pacific Railway will take pleasure +in forwarding to any address, free, of charge, any of the following +publications, provided that with the application is enclosed the amount +of postage specified below for each publication. All of these books and +pamphlets are fresh from the press, many of them handsomely illustrated, +and accurate as regards the region of country described. They will be +found entertaining and instructive, and invaluable as guides to and +authority on the fertile tracts and landscape wonders of the great empire +of the West. There is information for the tourist, pleasure and health +seeker, the investor, the settler, the sportsman, the artist, and the +invalid. + +The Western Resort Book. Send 6 cents for postage. + +This is a finely illustrated book describing the vast Union Pacific +system. Every health resort, mountain retreat, watering place, hunter's +paradise, etc., etc., is depicted. This book gives a full and complete +detail of all tours over the line, starting from Sioux City, Council +Bluffs, Omaha, St. Joseph, Leavenworth, or Kansas City, and contains a +complete itinerary of the journey from either of these points to the +Pacific Coast. + +Sights and Scenes. Send 2 cents postage for each pamphlet. + +There are five pamphlets in this set, pocket folder size, illustrated, +and are descriptive of tours to particular points. The set comprises +"Sights and Scenes in Colorado;" Utah; Idaho and Montana; California; +Oregon, Washington, and Alaska. Each pamphlet, deals minutely with every +resort of pleasure or health within its assigned limit, and will be found +bright and interesting reading for tourists. + +Facts and Figures. Send 2 cents postage for each pamphlet. + +This is a set of three pamphlets, containing facts and figures relative +to Kansas, Nebraska, and Colorado respectively. They are more +particularly meant for intending settlers in these fertile States and +will be found accurate in every particular; there is a description of all +important towns. + +Vest Pocket Memorandum Book. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A handy, neatly gotten-up little memorandum book, very useful for the +farmer, business man, traveler, and tourist. + +Calendar, 1890. Send 6 cents for postage. + +An elegant Calendar for the year 1890, suitable for the office and +counting room. + +Comprehensive Pamphlets. Send 6 cents postage for each pamphlet. + +A set of pamphlets on Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, Idaho, Oregon, +and Washington. These books treat, of the resources, climate, acreage, +minerals, grasses, soil, and products of these various empires on an +extended scale, entering very fully upon an exhaustive treatise of the +capabilities and promise of the places described. They have been very +carefully compiled, and the information collated from Official Reports, +actual settlers, and residents of the different States and Territories. + +Theatrical Diary. Send 10 cents for postage. + +This is a Theatrical Diary for 1890-91, bound in Turkey Morocco, gilt +tops, and contains a, list of 255 theatres and opera houses reached by +the Union Pacific system, seating capacity, size of stage, terms, +newspapers in each town, etc., etc. This Diary is intended only for the +theatrical profession. + +Commercial Salesman's Expense Book. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A neat vest pocket memorandum book for 1890--dates, cash accounts, etc., +etc. + +Outdoor Sports and Pastimes. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A carefully compiled pamphlet of some thirty pages, giving the complete +rules of this year, for Lawn Tennis, Base Ball, Croquet, Racquet, +Cricket, Quoits, La Crosse, Polo, Curling, Foot Ball, etc., etc. There +are also diagrams of a Lawn Tennis Court and Base Ball diamond. This +pamphlet will be found especially valuable to lovers of these games. + +Map of the United States. Send 25 cents for postage. + +A large wall map of the United States, complete in every particular, and +compiled from the latest surveys; just published; size, 46 x 66 inches; +railways, counties, roads, etc., etc. + +Stream, Sound and Sea. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A neat, illustrated pamphlet descriptive of a trip from The Dalles of the +Columbia to Portland, Ore., Astoria, Clatsop Beach; through the strait of +Juan de Fuca and the waters of the Puget Sound, and up the coast to +Alaska. A handsome pamphlet containing valuable information for the +tourist. + +Wonderful Story. Send 2 cents for postage. + +The romance of railway building. The wonderful story of the early surveys +and the building of the Union Pacific. A paper by General G.M. Dodge, read +before the Society of the Army of the Tennessee, September, 1888. General +Sherman pronounces this document fascinatingly interesting and, of great +historical value, and vouches for its accuracy. + +Gun Club Rules and Revised Game Laws. Send 2 cents for postage. + +This valuable publication is a digest of the laws relating to game in all +the Western States and Territories. It also contains the various gun club +rules, together with a guide to all Western localities where game of +whatsoever description may be found. Every sportsman should have one. + +"The Oldest Inhabitant." Send 10 cents for postage. + +This is a buffalo head in Sepia, a very artistic study from life. It is +characterized by strong drawing and wonderful fidelity. A very handsome +acquisition for parlor or library. + +Crofutt's Overland Guide, No. 1. Send $1.00. + +This book has just been issued. It graphically describes every point, +giving its history, population, business resources, etc., etc., on the +line of the Union Pacific Hallway, between the Missouri River and the +Pacific Coast, and the tourist should not start West without a copy in +his possession. It furnishes in one volume a complete guide to the +country traversed by the Union Pacific system, and can not fail to be of +great assistance to the tourist in selecting his route, and obtaining +complete information about the points to be visited. + +A Glimpse of Great Salt Lake. Send 4 cents for postage. + +This is a charming description of a yachting cruise on the mysterious +Inland sea, beautifully illustrated with original sketches by the +well-known artist, Mr. Alfred Lambourne, of Salt Lake City. This +startling phenomena of sea and cloud and light and color are finely +portrayed. This book touches a new region, a voyage on Great Salt Lake +never before having been described and pictured. + +General Folder. No postage required. + +A carefully revised General Folder is issued regularly every month. This +publication gives condensed through time tables; through car service; a +first-class map of the United States, west of Chicago and St. Louis; +important baggage and ticket regulations of the Union Pacific Railway, +thus making a valuable compendium for the traveler and for ticket agent +in selling through tickets over the Union Pacific Railway. + +The Pathfinder. No postage required. + +A book of some fifty pages devoted to local time cards; containing a +complete list of stations with the altitude of each; also connections +with western stage lines and ocean steamships; through car service; +baggage and Pullman Sleeping Car rates and the principal ticket +regulations, which will prove of great value as a ready reference for +ticket agents to give passengers information about the local branches of +the Union Pacific Railway. + +Alaska Folder. No postage required. + +This Folder contains a brief outline of the trip to Alaska, and also a +correct map of the Northwest Pacific Coast, from Portland to Sitka, +Alaska, showing the route of vessels to and from this new and almost +unknown country. + +[Illustration: Oregon, Washington and Alaska. Sights and Scenes for the +Tourist.] + +[Illustration: Tourist Map of Union Pacific and Connecting Lines.] + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA; +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST.*** + + +******* This file should be named 10751-8.txt or 10751-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/7/5/10751 + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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Lomax</title> +<style type="text/css"> + + +<!-- +body {text-align:justify; margin-left:5%; margin-right:5%;} +h1,h2,h3 {text-align:center;} + +--> +</style> +</head> +<body> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Oregon, Washington and Alaska; Sights and +Scenes for the Tourist, by E. L. Lomax</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: Oregon, Washington and Alaska; Sights and Scenes for the Tourist.</p> +<p>Author: E. L. Lomax</p> +<p>Release Date: January 19, 2004 [eBook #10751]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: iso-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA; SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST.***</p> +<center><h3>E-text prepared by P. A. Peters, Beth Trapaga,<br> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team</h3></center> + +<hr> +<p> </p> +<center><img src="Images/01Fronttiny.jpg" alt="Front Cover" + height="250" width="99" hspace="10" border="1"><img src= + "Images/02aTitlePageTiny.jpg" alt="Title Page" height="225" + width="100" hspace="10" border="1"> <img src= + "Images/02BackTiny.jpg" alt="Back Cover" height="250" width= + "99" hspace="10" border="1"></center> +<p> </p> +<center> +<h1>OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA.<br> +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST.</h1> +<h3>By E.L. LOMAX,<br> +General Passenger Agent,<br> +Union Pacific System,<br> +Omaha, Neb.<br> +<br> +1890</h3></center> +<hr size="3" width="100%" align="center"> +<p align="left"><b>LIST OF AGENTS.</b></p> +<p><small><b>ALBANY, N.Y.</b>—23 Maiden Lane—J.D. +TENBROECK. Trav. Pass. Agt.<br> + <b>BOSTON, MASS.</b>—290 Washington St.—W.S. CONDELL, +New England Freight and Passenger Agent.<br> + J.S. SMITH, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + E.M. NEWBEGIN, Traveling Freight and Passenger +Agent.<br> + A.P. MASSEY, Passenger and Freight Solicitor.<br> + <b>BUFFALO, N.Y.</b>—40½ Exchanges St.—S.A. +HUTCHISON, Trav. Pass. Agt.<br> + <b>BUTTE, MONT.</b>—Corner Main and Broadway—General +Agt.<br> + <b>CHEYENNE, WYO.</b>—C.W. SWEET, Freight and Ticket +Agent.<br> + <b>CHICAGO, ILL.</b>—191 South Clark St.—W.H. KNIGHT, +Gen'l Agt. P. and F. Dep'ts.<br> + T.W. YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + W.T. HOLLY, City Passenger Agent.<br> + ALFRED MORTESSEN & CO., European Immigration +Agts., 140 Kinzie St.<br> + <b>CINCINNATI, OHIO</b>—56 West 4th St.—J.D. WELSH, +Gen'l Agt. P. and F. Dep'ts.<br> + H.C. SMITH, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent.<br> + <b>CLEVELAND, OHIO</b>—Kennard House.—A.G. SHEARMAN, +T. F. and P. Agt.<br> + <b>COLORADO SPRINGS, COLO.</b>—E.D. BAXTER, Gen'l Agt D., T. +& Ft. W. R.R.<br> + <b>COLUMBUS, OHIO</b>—N.W. Cor. Gay and High Sts.—T.C. +HIRST, Trav. Pass. Agt.<br> + <b>COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA</b>—506 First Ave.—A.J. +MANDERSON, General Agt.<br> + R.W. CHAMBERLAIN, Passenger Agent, Transfer Depot.<br> + J.W. MAYNARD, Ticket Agent, Transfer Depot.<br> + A.T. ELWELL, City Ticket Agent, 507 Broadway.<br> + <b>DALLAS, TEX.</b>—H.M. DE HART, General Agent D., T. & +Ft. W. R.R.<br> + <b>DENVER, COLO.</b>—1703 Larimer St.—F.I. SMITH, +Gen'l Agt. D., T. & Ft. W. R.R.<br> + GEO. ADY, General Passenger Agent, Colo. Div. and D., +T. & Ft. W. R.R.<br> + F.B. SEMPLE, Ass't Gen'l Pass. Agt, Colo. Div. and D., +T. & Ft. W. R.R.<br> + C.H. TITUS, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + R.P.M. KIMBALL, City Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>DES MOINES, IOWA</b>—218 4th St.—E.M. FORD, +Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + <b>DETROIT, MICH.</b>—62 Griswold St.—D.W. JOHNSTON, +Michigan Pass. Agt.<br> + <b>HELENA, MONT.</b>—2 North Main St.—A.E. VEAZIE, +City Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>INDIANAPOLIS, IND.</b>—Room 3 Jackson Place.—H.O. +WEBB, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + <b>KANSAS CITY, MO.</b>—9th and Broadway.—J.B. +FRAWLEY, Div. Pass. Agt.<br> + J.B. REESE, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + F.S. HAACKE, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + H.K. PROUDFIT, City Passenger Agent.<br> + T.A. SHAW, Ticket Agent, 1038 Union Ave.<br> + A.W. MILLSPAUGH, Ticket Agent, Union Depot.<br> + C.A. WHITTIER, City Ticket Agent, 528 Main St.<br> + <b>LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND</b>—23 Water St.—S. STAMFORD +PARRY, General European Agent.<br> + <b>LONDON, ENGLAND</b>—THOS. COOK & SONS, European +Passenger Agents, Ludgate Circus.<br> + <b>LOS ANGELES, CAL.</b>—51 North Spring St.—JOHN +CLARK, Agt. Pass. Dep't.<br> + A.J. HECHTMAN, Agent Freight Department.<br> + <b>LOUISVILLE, KY.</b>—346 West Main St.—N. HAIGHT, +Traveling Pass. Agent.<br> + <b>NEW ORLEANS, LA.</b>—45 St. Charles St.—C.B. SMITH, +General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R.<br> + D.M. REA, Traveling Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R.<br> + <b>NEW YORK CITY</b>—287 Broadway—R. TENBROECK, +General Eastern Agent.<br> + J.F. WILEY, Passenger Agent.<br> + F.R. SEAMAN, City Passenger Agent.<br> + <b>OGDEN, UTAH</b>—Union Depot—C.A. HENRY, Ticket +Agent.<br> + C.E. INGALLS, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + <b>OLYMPIA, WASH.</b>—2d St. Wharf.—J.C. PERCIVAL, +Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>OMAHA, NEB.</b>—9th and Farnam Sts.—M.J. GREEVY, +Trav. Pass. Agt.<br> + HARRY P. DEUEL, City Passenger and Ticket Agent, 1302 +Farnam St.<br> + J.K. CHAMBERS, Depot Ticket Agent, 10th and Marey +Sts.<br> + <b>PHILADELPHIA, PA.</b>—133 South 4th St.—D.E. +BURLEY, Trav. Pass. Agt.<br> + L.T. FOWLER, Traveling Freight Agent.<br> + <b>PITTSBURG, PA.</b>—400 Wood St.—H.E. PASSAVANT, T. +F. and P. A.<br> + THOS. S. SPEAR, Traveling Freight and Passenger +Agent.<br> + <b>PORTLAND, ORE.</b>—Cor. 3d and Oak Sts.—T.W. LEE, +Gen'l Passenger Agent, Pacific Div.<br> + A.L. MAXWELL, General Agent Traffic Department.<br> + HARRY YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + GEO. S. TAYLOR, City Ticket Agent. Cor. 1st and Oak +Sts.<br> + <b>PORT TOWNSEND, WASH.</b>—Union Wharf—H.L. TIBBALS, +Jr., Ticket Agt.<br> + <b>PUEBLO, COLO.</b>—E.R. HARDING, General Agent D., T. +& Ft. W. R.R.<br> + <b>ST. JOSEPH, MO.</b>—F.L. LYNDE, General Pass. Agent, St. +J. & G.I. R.R. Div.<br> + W.P. ROBINSON, Jr., General Freight Agent, St. J. +& G.I. R.R. Div.<br> + <b>ST. LOUIS, MO.</b>—213 North 4th St.—J.F. AGLAR, +Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep't.<br> + E.R. TUTTLE, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + E.S. WILLIAMS, City Passenger Agent.<br> + C.C. KNIGHT, Freight Contracting Agent.<br> + <b>SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH</b>—201 Main St.—J.V. PARKER, +Assistant General Freight and Passenger Agent, Mountain Div.<br> + <b>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.</b>—1 Montgomery St.—W.H. +HURLBURT, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Mo. Riv. Div.<br> + S.W. ECCLES, General Agent Freight Department.<br> + C.L. HANNA, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + H. FRODSHAM, Passenger Agent.<br> + J.F. FUGAZI, Italian Emigrant Agent, 5 Montgomery +Ave.<br> + <b>SEATTLE, WASH.</b>—A.C. MARTIN, City Ticket Agent.<br> + O.F. BRIGGS, Ticket Agent, Dock.<br> + <b>SIOUX CITY, IOWA</b>—513 Fourth St.—D.M. COLLINS, +General Agent.<br> + GEO. E. ABBOT, City Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>SPOKANE FALLS, WASH.</b>—108 Riverside Ave.—PERRY +GRIFFIN, Passenger and Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>TACOMA, WASH.</b>—901 Pacific Ave.—E.E. ELLIS, +Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep'ts.<br> + <b>TRINIDAD, COLO.</b>—G.M. JACOBS, General Agent D., T. +& Ft. W. R.R.<br> + <b>VICTORIA, B.C.</b>—100 Government St.—G.A. COOPER, +Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>WHATCOM, WASH.</b>—J.W. ALTON, Gen'l Agent Freight and +Pass. Dep'ts.<br></small></p> +<hr size="1" width="70%" noshade align="center"> +<p align="center"><small><b>J.A.S. REED</b>, General Traveling +Agent, 191 South Clark St., CHICAGO.<br> + <b>ALBERT WOODCOCK</b>, General Land Commissioner, OMAHA, +NEB.</small></p> +<hr size="1" width="70%" noshade align="center"> +<center> +<p align="center"><small><b>E.L. LOMAX</b>, General Passenger +Agent,<br> + <b>JNO. W. SCOTT</b>, Ass't General Passenger Agent,<br> + OMAHA, NEB.</small></p> +<hr size="2" width="80%" noshade align="center"> +<p> </p> +<h2>PULLMAN'S PALACE CAR COMPANY</h2> +<p>Now operates this class of service on the Union Pacific and +connecting lines.</p></center> +<center> +<table border="1" width="75%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" +summary="Routes and Prices"> +<tr> +<th width="450" align="left">PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES BETWEEN</th> +<th width="15" align="center">Double Berths</th> +<th width="15" align="center">Drawing Room</th></tr> +<tr> +<td>New York and Chicago</td> +<td align="right">$ 5.00</td> +<td align="right">$ 18.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>New York and St. Louis</td> +<td align="right">6.00</td> +<td align="right">22.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Boston and Chicago</td> +<td align="right">5.50</td> +<td align="right">20.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Chicago and Omaha or Kansas City</td> +<td align="right">2.50</td> +<td align="right">9.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Chicago and Denver</td> +<td align="right">6.00</td> +<td align="right">21.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>St. Louis and Kansas City</td> +<td align="right">2.00</td> +<td align="right">7.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>St. Louis and Omaha</td> +<td align="right">2.50</td> +<td align="right">9.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Kansas City and Cheyenne</td> +<td align="right">4.50</td> +<td align="right">15.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Denver</td> +<td align="right">3.50</td> +<td align="right">12.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne</td> +<td align="right">4.00</td> +<td align="right">14.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Salt Lake City</td> +<td align="right">8.00</td> +<td align="right">28.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Ogden</td> +<td align="right">8.00</td> +<td align="right">28.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Butte</td> +<td align="right">8.50</td> +<td align="right">32.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Portland</td> +<td align="right">13.00</td> +<td align="right">50.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>C. Bluff, Omaha or K. City and San Francisco or Los +Angeles</td> +<td align="right">13.00</td> +<td align="right">50.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Cheyenne and Portland</td> +<td align="right">10.00</td> +<td align="right">38.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Denver and Leadville</td> +<td align="right">2.00</td> +<td align="right">——</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Denver and Portland</td> +<td align="right">11.00</td> +<td align="right">42.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Denver and Los Angeles</td> +<td align="right">11.00</td> +<td align="right">42.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Denver and San Francisco</td> +<td align="right">11.00</td> +<td align="right">42.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Pocatello and Butte</td> +<td align="right">2.00</td> +<td align="right">6.00</td></tr></table></center> +<center> +<p><b>For a Section, Twice the Double Berth Rates will be +charged.</b></p></center> +<p>The Private Hotel, Dining, Hunting and Sleeping Cars of the +Pullman Company will accommodate from 12 to 18 persons, allowing a +full bed to each, and are fitted with such modern conveniences as +private, observation and smoking rooms, folding beds, reclining +chairs, buffets and kitchens. They are "<i>just the thing</i>" for +tourists, theatrical companies, sportsmen, and private parties. The +Hunting Cars have special conveniences, being provided with +dog-kennels, gun-racks, fishing-tackle, etc. These cars can be +chartered at following rates per diem (the time being reckoned from +date of departure until return of same, unless otherwise arranged +with the Pullman Company):</p> +<center> +<p><b>Less than Ten Days.</b></p></center> +<center> +<table border="1" width="75%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" +summary="Less Than Ten Days"> +<tr> +<th width="35%"> </th> +<th align="center" width="10%">per day.</th> +<th width="35%"> </th> +<th align="center" width="10%">per day.</th></tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Hotel Cars</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">$50.00</td> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Private or Hunting Cars</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">$35.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Buffet Cars</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">45.00</td> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Private Cars with Buffet</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">30.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Sleeping Cars</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">40.00</td> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Dining Cars</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">30.00</td></tr></table></center> +<p>Ten Days or over, $5.00 per day less than above. Hotel, Buffet, +or Sleeping Cars can also be chartered for continuous trips without +lay-over between points where extra cars are furnished (cars to be +given up at destination), as follows:</p> +<center> +<table border="1" width="75%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" +summary="Ten Days or Over"> +<tr> +<td>Where berth rate is</td> +<td> $1.50,</td> +<td>car rate will be</td> +<td> $35.00.</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Where berth rate is</td> +<td> 2.00,</td> +<td>car rate will be</td> +<td> 45.00.</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Where berth rate is</td> +<td> 2.50,</td> +<td>car rate will be</td> +<td> 55.00.</td></tr></table></center> +<p>For each additional berth rate of 50 cents, car rate will be +increased $10.00.</p> +<p>Above rates include service of polite and skillful attendants. +The commissariat will also be furnished if desired. Such chartered +cars must contain not less than 15 persons holding full first-class +tickets, and another full fare ticket will be required for each +additional passenger over 15. If chartered "per diem" cars are +given up <i>en route</i>, chartering party must arrange for return +to original starting point free, or pay amount of freight necessary +for return thereto. Diagrams showing interior of these cars can be +had of any agent of the Company.</p> +<p align="center"><b>PULLMAN DINING CARS</b></p> +<p>are attached to the Council Bluffs and Denver Vestibuled +Express, daily between Council Bluffs and Denver, and to "The +Limited Fast Mail," running daily between Council Bluffs and +Portland, Ore.</p> +<p align="center"><b>MEALS.</b></p> +<p>All trains, except those specified above (under head of Pullman +Dining Cars), stop at regular eating stations, where first-class +meals are furnished, under the direct supervision of this Company, +by the Pacific Hotel Company. Neat and tidy lunch counters are also +to be found at these stations.</p> +<p align="center"><b>BUFFET SERVICE.</b></p> +<p>Particular attention is called to the fine Buffet Service +offered by the Union Pacific System to its patrons. Pullman Palace +Buffet Sleepers now run on trains Nos. 1, 2, 201, and 202.</p> +<hr size="2" width="80%" noshade align="center"> +<p> </p> +<h2>SIGHTS AND SCENES IN<br> +OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA.</h2> +<p>Oregon is a word derived from the Spanish, and means "wild +thyme," the early explorers finding that herb growing there in +great profusion. So far as we have any record Oregon seems to have +been first visited by white men in 1775; Captain Cook coasted down +its shores in 1778. Captain Gray, commanding the ship "Columbia," +of Boston, Mass., discovered the noble river in 1791, which he +named after his ship. Astoria was founded in 1811; immigration was +in full tide in 1839; Territorial organization was effected in +1848, and Oregon became a State on 14th February, 1859. It has an +area of 96,000 square miles, and is 350 miles long by 275 miles +wide. There are 50,000,000 acres of arable and grazing land, and +10,000,000 acres of forest in the State.</p> +<p>The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates a +series of excursion tickets called "Columbia Tours," using Portland +as a central point. Stop-over privileges will be given within the +limitation of the tickets.</p> +<p><em><b>First Columbia Tour</b></em>—Portland to "The +Dalles," by rail, and return by river.</p> +<p><em><b>Second Columbia Tour</b></em>—Portland to Astoria, +Ilwaco, and Clatsop Beach, and return by river.</p> +<p><em><b>Third Columbia Tour</b></em>—Portland to Port +Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma by boat and return.</p> +<p><em><b>Fourth Columbia Tour</b></em>—Portland to Alaska +and return.</p> +<p><em><b>Fifth Columbia Tour</b></em>—Portland to San +Francisco by boat.</p> +<center> +<h3>PORTLAND</h3></center> +<p>Is a very beautiful city of 60,000 inhabitants, and situated on +the Willamette river twelve miles from its junction with the +Columbia. It is perhaps true of many of the growing cities of the +West, that they do not offer the same social advantages as the +older cities of the East. But this is principally the case as to +what may be called boom cities, where the larger part of the +population is of that floating class which follows in the line of +temporary growth for the purposes of speculation, and in no sense +applies to those centers of trade whose prosperity is based on the +solid foundation of legitimate business. As the metropolis of a +vast section of country, having broad agricultural valleys filled +with improved farms, surrounded by mountains rich in mineral +wealth, and boundless forests of as fine timber as the world +produces, the cause of Portland's growth and prosperity is the +trade which it has as the center of collection and distribution of +this great wealth of natural resources, and it has attracted, not +the boomer and speculator, who find their profits in the wild +excitement of the boom, but the merchant, manufacturer, and +investor, who seek the surer if slower channels of legitimate +business and investment. These have come from the East, most of +them within the last few years. They came as seeking a better and +wider field to engage in the same occupations they had followed in +their Eastern homes, and bringing with them all the love of polite +life which they had acquired there, have established here a new +society, equaling in all respects that which they left behind. Here +are as fine churches, as complete a system of schools, as fine +residences, as great a love of music and art, as can be found at +any city of the East of equal size.</p> +<center><img src="Images/03Portland.jpg" alt="Portland, Ore." +height="322" width="602"></center> +<p>But while Portland may justly claim to be the peer of any city +of its size in the United States in all that pertains to social +life, in the attractions of beauty of location and surroundings it +stands without its peer. The work of art is but the copy of nature. +What the residents of other cities see but in the copy, or must +travel half the world over to see in the original, the resident of +Portland has at his very door.</p> +<p>The city is situate on gently-sloping ground, with, on the one +side, the river, and on the other a range of hills, which, within +easy walking distance, rise to an elevation of a thousand feet +above the river, affording a most picturesque building site. From +the very streets of the thickly settled portion of the city, the +Cascade Mountains, with the snow-capped peaks of Hood, Adams, St. +Helens, and Rainier, are in plain view. As the hills to the west +are ascended the view broadens, until, from the extreme top of some +of the higher points, there is, to the east, the valley stretching +away to the Cascade Mountains, with its rivers, the Columbia and +Willamette; in the foreground Portland, in the middle distance +Vancouver, and, bounding the horizon, the Cascade Mountains, with +their snow-clad peaks, and the gorge of the Columbia in plain +sight, whilst away to the north the course of the Columbia may be +followed for miles. To the west, from the foot of the hills, the +valley of the Tualatin stretches away twenty odd miles to the Coast +Range, which alone shuts out the view of the Pacific Ocean and +bounds the horizon on the west. To the glaciers of Mt. Hood is but +little more than a day's travel. The gorge of the Columbia, which +in many respects equals, and in others surpasses the far-famed +Yosemite, may be visited in the compass of a day. The Upper +Willamette, within the limits of a few hours' trip, offers beauties +equaling the Rhine, whilst thirty-six hours gives the Lower +Columbia, beside which the Rhine and Hudson sink into +insignificance. In short, within a few hours' walk of the heart of +this busy city are beauties surpassing the White Mountains or +Adirondacks, and the grandeur of the Alps lies within the limits of +a day's picnicking.</p> +<p>There is no better guarantee of the advantageous position of +Portland than the wealth which has accumulated here in the short +period which has elapsed since the city first sprang into +existence. Theory is all very well, but the actual proof is in the +result. At the taking of the census of 1880, Portland was the third +wealthiest city in the world in proportion to population; since +that date wealth has accumulated at an unprecedented rate, and it +is probable it is to-day the wealthiest. Among all her wealthy men, +not one can be singled out who did not make his money here, who did +not come here poor to grow rich.</p> +<p>Portland enjoys superb advantages as a starting-point for +tourist travel. After the traveler has enjoyed the numerous +attractions of that wealthy city, traversed its beautiful avenues, +viewed a strikingly noble landscape from "The Heights," and +explored those charming environs which extend for miles up and down +the Willamette, there remains perhaps the most invigorating and +healthful trip of all—a journey either by</p> +<center> +<h3>STREAM, SOUND, OR SEA.</h3></center> +<p>There must ever remain in the mind of the tourist a peculiarly +delightful recollection of a day on the majestic Columbia River, +the all too short run across that glorious sheet of water, Puget +Sound, or the fifty hours' luxurious voyage on the Pacific Ocean, +from Portland to San Francisco.</p> +<p>Beginning first with the Columbia River, the traveler will find +solid comfort on any one of the boats belonging to the Union +Pacific Railway fleet. This River Division is separated into three +subdivisions: the Lower Columbia from Portland to Astoria, the +Middle Columbia from Portland to Cascade Locks, and the Upper +Columbia from the Cascades to The Dalles.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr size="4" width="50%" align="center"> +<center> +<h3>THE UPPER COLUMBIA.</h3> +<h4><i>First Tour—</i></h4></center> +<p>Passengers will remember that, arriving at The Dalles, on the +Union Pacific Railway, they have the option of proceeding into +Portland either by rail or river, and their ticket is available for +either route.</p> +<center><img src="Images/04MtAdams.jpg" alt= +"Mount Adams, Washington" height="268" width="484"></center> +<p>The river trip will be found a very pleasant diversion after the +long railway ride, and a day's sail down the majestic Columbia is a +memory-picture which lasts a life-time. It is eighty-eight miles by +rail to Portland, the train skirting the river bank up to within a +few miles of the city. By river, it is forty-five miles to the +Upper Cascades, then a six-mile portage via narrow-gauge railway, +then sixty miles by steamer again to Portland. The boat leaves The +Dalles at about 7 in the morning, and reaches Portland at 6 in the +evening. The accommodations on these boats are first-class in every +respect; good table, neat staterooms, and courteous attendants.</p> +<p>This tour is planned for those who may wish to start from +Portland by the Union Pacific Railway. Take the evening train from +Portland to The Dalles. Arriving at The Dalles, walk down to the +boat, which lies only a few yards down stream from the station. +Sleep on board, so that you may be ready early in the morning for +the stately panorama of the river. Another plan is to give a day to +the interesting country in the near vicinity. The Dalles proper of +the Columbia begin at Celilo, fourteen miles above this point, and +are simply a succession of rapids, until, nearing The Dalles +Station, the stream for two and a half miles narrows down between +walls of basaltic rock 130 feet across. In the flood-tides of the +spring the water in this chasm has risen 126 feet. The word +"Dalles" is rather misleading. The word is French, "dalle," and +means, variously, "a plate," "a flagstone," "a slab," alluding to +the oval or square shaped stones which abound in the river bed and +the valley above. But the early French hunters and trappers called +a chasm or a defile or gorge, "dalles," meaning in their vernacular +"a trough"—and "Dalles" it has remained. There is a quaint +Indian legend connected with the spot which may interest the +curious, and it runs something on this wise, Clark's Fork and the +Snake river, it will be remembered, unite at Ainsworth to form the +Columbia. It flows furiously for a hundred miles and more westward, +and when it reaches the outlying ridges of the Cascade chain it +finds an immense low surface paved with enormous sheets of basaltic +rock. But here is the legend:</p> +<center> +<h3>THE LEGEND OF THE DALLES.</h3></center> +<p>In the very ancient far-away times the sole and only inhabitants +of the world were fiends, and very highly uncivilized fiends at +that. The whole Northwest was then one of the centres of volcanic +action. The craters of the Cascades were fire breathers and +fountains of liquid flame. It was an extremely fiendish country, +and naturally the inhabitants fought like devils. Where the great +plains of the Upper Columbia now spread was a vast inland sea, +which beat against a rampart of hills to the east of The Dalles. +And the great weapon of the fiends in warfare was their tails, +which were of prodigious size and terrible strength. Now, the +wisest, strongest, and most subtle fiend of the entire crew was one +fiend called the "Devil." He was a thoughtful person and viewed +with alarm the ever increasing tendency among his neighbors toward +fighting and general wickedness. The whole tribe met every summer +to have a tournament after their fashion, and at one of these +reunions the Devil arose and made a pacific speech. He took +occasion to enlarge on the evils of constant warfare, and suggested +that a general reconciliation take place and that they all live in +peace. The astonished fiends could not understand any such +unwarlike procedure from <i>him</i>, and with one accord, +suspecting treachery, made straight at the intended reformer, who, +of course, took to his heels. The fiends pressed him hard as he +sped over the plains of The Dalles, and as he neared the defile he +struck a Titanic blow with his tail on the pavement—and a +chasm opened up through the valley, and down rushed the waters of +the inland sea. But a battalion of the fiends still pursued him, +and again he smote with his tail and more strongly, and a vaster +cleft went up and down the valley, and a more terrific torrent +swept along. The leading fiends took the leap, but many fell into +the chasm—and still the Devil was sorely pursued. He had just +time to rap once more and with all the vigor of a despairing tail. +And this time he was safe. A third crevice, twice the width of the +second, split the rocks, riving a deeper cleft in the mountain that +held back the inland sea, making a gorge through the majestic chain +of the Cascades and opening a way for the torrent oceanward. It was +the crack of doom for the fiends. Essaying the leap, they fell far +short of the edge, where the Devil lay panting. Down they fell and +were swept away by the flood; so the whole race of fiends perished +from the face of the earth. But the Devil was in sorry case. His +tail was unutterably dislocated by his last blow; so, leaping +across the chasm he had made, he went home to rear his family +thoughtfully. There were no more antagonists; so, perhaps, after +all, tails were useless. Every year he brought his children to The +Dalles and told them the terrible history of his escape. And after +a time the fires of the Cascades burned away; the inland sea was +drained and its bed became a fair and habitable land, and still the +waters gushed through the narrow crevices roaring seaward. But the +Devil had one sorrow. All his children born before the catastrophe +were crabbed, unregenerate, stiff-tailed fiends. After that event +every new-born imp wore a flaccid, invertebrate, despondent +tail—the very last insignium of ignobility. So runs the +legend of The Dalles—a shining lesson to reformers.</p> +<p>Leaving The Dalles in the morning, a splendid panorama begins to +unfold on this lordly stream—"Achilles of rivers," as +Winthrop called it. It is difficult to describe the charm of this +trip. Residents of the East pronounce it superior to the Hudson, +and travelers assert there is nothing like it in the Old World. It +is simply delicious to those escaped from the heat and dust of +their far-off homes to embark on this noble stream and steam +smoothly down past frowning headlands and "rocks with carven +imageries," bluffs lined with pine trees, vivid green, past islands +and falls, and distant views of snowy peaks. There is no trip like +it on the coast, and for a river excursion there is not its equal +in the United States.</p> +<center> +<h3>THE ISLE OF THE DEAD.</h3></center> +<p>Twelve miles below "The Dalles" there is a lonely, rugged island +anchored amid stream. It is bare, save for a white monument which +rises from its rocky breast. No living thing, no vestige of +verdure, or tree, or shrub, appears. And Captain McNulty, as he +stood at the wheel and steadied the "Queen," said:</p> +<p>"That monument? It's Victor Trevet's. Of course you never heard +of him, but he was a great man, all the same, here in Oregon in the +old times. Queer he was, and no mistake. Member of one of the early +legislatures; sort of a general peacemaker; everybody went to him +with their troubles, and when he said a lawsuit didn't go, it +didn't, and he always stuck up for the Indians, and always called +his own kind 'dirty mean whites.' I used to think that was put on, +and maybe it was, but anyhow that's the way he used to talk. And a +hundred times he has said to me, 'John, when I die, I want to be +buried on Memaloose Isle.' That's the 'Isle of the Dead,' which we +just passed, and has been from times away back the burial place of +the Chinook Indians. It's just full of 'em. And I says to him, +'Now, Vic., it's fame your after.' 'John,' says he, 'I'll tell you: +I'm not indifferent to glory; and there's many a big gun laid away +in the cemetery that people forget in a year, and his grave's never +visited after a few turns of the wheel; but if I rest on Memaloose +Isle, I'll not be forgotten while people travel this river. And +another thing: You know, John, the dirty, mean whites stole the +Indian's burial ground and built Portland there. Everyday the +papers have an account of Mr. Bigbug's proposed palace, and how +Indian bones were turned up in the excavation. I won't be buried +alongside any such dirty, mean thieves. And I'll tell you further, +John, that it may be if I am laid away among the Indians, when the +Great Day comes I can slip in kind of easy. They ain't going to +have any such a hard time as the dirty whites will have, and maybe +I won't be noticed, and can just slide in quiet along with their +crowd.'</p> +<p>"And I tell you," said the honest Captain, as he swung the +"Queen" around a sharp headland, and the monument and island +vanished, "he has got his wish. He don't lay among the whites, and +there isn't a day in summer when the name of Vic. Trevet ain't +mentioned, either on yon train or on a boat, just as I am telling +it to you now. When he died in San Francisco five years ago, some +of his old friends had him brought back to 'The Dalles,' and one +lovely Sunday (being an off day) we buried him on Memaloose Isle, +and then we put up the monument. His earthly immortality is safe +and sure, for that stone will stand as long as the island stays. +She's eight feet square at the base, built of the native rock right +on the island, then three feet of granite, then a ten-foot column. +It cost us $1,500, and Vic. is bricked up in a vault underneath. +Yes, sir, he's there for sure till resurrection day. Queer idea? +Why, blame it all, if he thought he could get in along with the +Chinooks it's all right, ain't it? Don't want a man to lose any +chances, do you?"</p> +<p>So much has been said of this mighty river that the preconceived +idea of the tourist is of a surging flood of unknown depth rushing +like a mountain torrent. The plain facts are that the Lower +Columbia is rather a placid stream, with a sluggish current, and +the channel shoals up to eight feet, then falling to twelve, +fifteen and seventeen feet, and suddenly dropping to 100 feet of +water and over. In the spring months it will rise from twenty-five +to forty feet, leaving driftwood high up among the trees on the +banks. The tide ebbs and flows at Portland from eighteen inches to +three feet, according to season, and this tidal influence is felt, +in high water, as far up as the Cascades. It is fifty miles of +glorious beauty from "The Dalles" to the Cascades. Here we leave +the steamer and take a narrow-gauge railway for six miles around +the magnificent rapids. At the foot of the Cascades we board a twin +boat, fitted up with equal taste and comfort.</p> +<center> +<h3>THE MIDDLE COLUMBIA.</h3></center> +<p>Swinging once more down stream we pass hundreds of charming +spots, sixty miles of changeful beauty all the way to Portland; +Multnomah Falls, a filmy veil of water falling 720 feet into a +basin on the hillside and then 130 feet to the river; past the +rocky walls of Cape Horn, towering up a thousand feet; past that +curious freak of nature, Rooster Rock, and the palisades; past Fort +Vancouver, where Grant and Sheridan were once stationed, and just +at sunset leaving the Columbia, which by this time has broadened +into noble dimensions, we ascend the Willamette twelve miles to +Portland. And the memory of that day's journey down the lordly +river will remain a gracious possession for years to come.</p> +<center> +<h3>THE LEGEND OF THE CASCADES.</h3></center> +<p><img src="Images/05MultFalls.jpg" alt= +"MULTNOMAH FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE." height="411" width="200" +align="left" hspace="20" vspace="2">There is a quaint Indian legend +concerning the Cascades to the effect that away back in the +forgotten times there was a natural bridge across the +river—the water flowing under one arch. The Great Spirit had +made this bridge very beautiful for his red children; it was firm, +solid earth, and covered with trees and grass. The two great giants +who sat always glowering at each other from far away (Mount Adams +and Mount Hood) quarreled terribly once on a time, and the sky grew +black with their smoke and the earth trembled with their roaring. +And in their rage and fury they began to throw great stones and +huge mountain boulders at one another. This great battle lasted for +days, and when the smoke and the thunderings had passed away and +the sun shone peacefully again, the people came back once more. But +there was no bridge there. Pieces of rock made small islands above +the lost bridge, but below that the river fretted and shouted and +plunged over jagged and twisted boulders for miles down the stream, +throwing the spray high in air, madly spending its strength in +treacherous whirlpools and deep seductive currents—ever after +to be wrathful, complaining, dangerous. The stoutest warrior could +not live in that terrible torrent. So the beautiful bridge was +lost, destroyed in this Titan battle, but far down in the water +could be seen many of the stately trees which the Great Spirit +caused to remain there as a token of the bridge. These he turned to +stone, and they are there even unto this day. The theory of the +scientists, of course, runs counter to the pretty legend. Science +usually does destroy poetry, and they tell us that a part of the +mountain slid into the river, thus accounting for the remnant of a +forest down in the deep water. Moreover, pieces which have been +recovered show the wood to be live timber, and not petrified, as +the poetic fiction has it. The Columbia has not changed in the +centuries, but flows in the same channel here as when in the remote +ages the lava, overflowing, cut out a course and left its pathway +clear for all time. Below the lower Cascades a sea-coral formation +is found, grayish in color and not very pretty, but showing +conclusively its sea formation. Sandstone is also at times +uncovered, showing that this was made by sea deposit before the +lava flowed down upon it. This Oregon country is said to be the +largest lava district in the world. The basaltic formations in the +volcanic lands of Sicily and Italy are famous for their richness, +and Oregon holds out the same promise for agriculture. The lava +formation runs from Portland to Spokane Falls, as far north as +Tacoma, and south as far as Snake river—all basaltic +formation overlaid with an incomparably rich soil.</p> +<p>The trip from Portland by rail to "The Dalles," if the tourist +should chance not to arrive in Portland by the Union Pacific line +from the east, will be found charming. It is eighty-eight miles +distant. Multnomah Falls is reached in thirty-two miles; +Bonneville, forty-one miles, at the foot of the Cascades; five +miles farther is the stupendous government lock now in process of +building around the rapids; Hood river, sixty-six miles, where +tourists leave for the ascent of Mount Hood. It is about forty +miles through a picturesque region to the base of the mountain. +Then from Hood river, an ice-cold stream, twenty-two miles into +"The Dalles," where the steamer may be taken for the return trip. +In this eighty-eight miles from Portland to "The Dalles" there are +twelve miles of trestles and bridges. The railway follows the +Columbia's brink the entire distance to within a few miles of the +city. The scenery is impressively grand; the bluffs, if they may be +so called, are bold promontories attaining majestic heights. One +timber shute, where the logs come whizzing into the river with the +velocity of a cannon-ball, is 3,328 feet long, and it is claimed a +log makes the trip in twenty seconds.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr size="4" width="50%" align="center"> +<center> +<h3>THE LOWER COLUMBIA.</h3> +<h4><i>Second Tour—</i></h4></center> +<p><img src="Images/06Bridal.jpg" alt= +"BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE." height="481" width="235" +align="right" hspace="12" vspace="2"> While the Upper Columbia +abounds in scenery of wild and picturesque beauty, the tourist must +by no means neglect a trip down the lower river from Portland to +Astoria and Ilwaco, and return. The facilities now offered by the +Union Pacific in its splendid fleet of steamers render this a +delightful excursion. On a clear day, one may enjoy at the junction +of the Willamette with the Columbia a very wonderful +sight—five mountain peaks are on view: St. Helens, Mt. +Jefferson, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Rainier. St. Helens, queen +of the Cascade Range, a fair and graceful cone. Exquisite mantling +snows sweep along her shoulders toward the bristling pines. Not far +from her base, the Columbia crashes through the mountains in a +magnificent chasm, and Mt. Hood, the vigorous prince of the range, +rises in a keen pyramid some 12,000 feet. Small villages and +landing-places line the shores, almost too numerous to mention. +There are, of the more important, St. Johns, St. Helens, Columbia +City, Kalama, Rainier, Westport, Cathlamet, Knappa, and Astoria at +the mouth, a busy place of 6,000 people. Salmon canneries there are +without number. It is about 98 miles by the chart from Portland to +Astoria. Across the bay is the pretty town of Ilwaco. Ft. Canby and +Cape Disappointment look across to Ft. Stevens and Point Adams. +From Astoria, one may drive eighteen miles to Clatsop Beach, famous +for its clams, crab, and trout, and Ben Holliday's hotel. But the +fullest enjoyment is obtained by making a round trip, including a +lay-over at Ilwaco all night, and returning to Portland next day, +and sleeping on board the boat. A railway runs from the town to the +outside beach, a mile and a half distant. There is a drive +twenty-five miles long up this long beach to Shoal Water Bay, which +is beautiful beyond description. This district is the great supply +point for oysters, heavy shipments being made as far south as San +Francisco. Sea bathing, both here and at Clatsop Beach, is very +fine.</p> +<p>The boats of the Union Pacific Ry. on the Columbia leave nothing +to be desired. The "T.J. Potter," a magnificent side-wheel steamer, +made her first trip in July, 1888. She is 235 feet long, 35 feet +beam, and 10 feet hold, with a capacity of 600 passengers. The +saloon and state-rooms are fitted with every convenience, and +handsomely decorated. The "Potter" was built entirely in Portland, +and the citizens naturally take great pride in the superb vessel. +In August, 1888, this steamer made the run from her berth at +Portland to the landing stage at Astoria in five hours and +thirty-one minutes. Then there are two night passenger boats from +Portland down, the ""R.R. Thompson" and the "S.G. Reed," both +stern-wheelers of large size, spacious, roomy boats, well appointed +in every particular. The Thompson is 215 feet long, 38 feet beam, +and 1,158 tons measurement. In addition to these, there are two day +mail passenger and freight boats; they handle the way traffic; the +larger boats above mentioned make the run direct from Portland to +Astoria without any landings.</p> +<center> +<h3>SOME RANDOM NOTES.</h3></center> +<p>A mistaken idea has possessed many tourists that the Puget Sound +steamers start from Portland; they leave Tacoma for all points on +the Sound, and Tacoma is about 150 miles by rail from Portland.</p> +<p>One steamer sails every twelfth day from Portland to +Seattle.</p> +<p>One steamer per month leaves Portland for Alaska, but she +touches at Port Townsend before proceeding north.</p> +<p>One steamship leaves Tacoma for Alaska during the season of +1890, about every fifteen days, from June to September.</p> +<p>The Ocean steamers sail every fourth day from Portland to San +Francisco.</p> +<p>There are semi-weekly boats between Portland and Corvallis, and +tri-weekly between Portland and Salem.</p> +<p>On the Sound there are three boats each way, daily (except +Sunday), between Tacoma and Seattle; one boat each way, daily +(except Sunday), between Tacoma and Victoria; one boat each way, +daily (except Sunday), between Seattle and Whatcom, and one boat, +daily (except Sunday), between Whatcom and Seminahmoo.</p> +<p>Only one class of tickets is sold on the River and Sound boats; +on the Ocean steamers there are two classes: cabin and steerage. +The steerage passengers on the Ocean steamers have a dining-room +separate from the first-class passengers—on the lower +deck—and are given abundance of wholesome food, tea and +coffee.</p> +<p>On River and Sound boats, a ticket does not include meals and +berths, but it does on the ocean voyage, or the Alaska trip. The +usual price for meals is 50 cents, and they will be found uniformly +excellent. Breakfast, lunch, and a 6 o'clock dinner are served.</p> +<p>The price of berths on these boats runs from 50 cents for a +single berth to $3 per day for the bridal chamber.</p> +<p>No liquors of any kind are kept on sale on any River or Sound +steamer, but a small stock of the best brands will be found on the +Ocean steamers.</p> +<p>State-rooms on the River and Sound steamers are provided with +one double lower and one single upper berth.</p> +<p>Passengers can, if they choose, purchase the full accommodation +of a state-room.</p> +The steerage capacity of each of the three Ocean steamers is about +300. +<p>The diagram of the Ocean steamers and the night boats to Astoria +can always be found at the Union Ticket Office of the Union Pacific +Railway in Portland, corner First and Oak Streets.</p> +<p>Tourists receive more than an ordinary amount of attention on +these steamers, more than is possible to pay them on a railway +train. The pursers will be found polite and obliging, always ready +to point out places of interest and render those little attentions +which go so far toward making travel pleasant.</p> +<p>On River and Sound boats, the forward cabin is generally the +smoking-room, the cabin amidships is used for a "Social Hall," and +the "After Saloon" is always the ladies' cabin.</p> +<p>All Union Pacific steamers in the Ocean service are heated with +steam and lighted with electricity; all have pianos and a +well-selected library. The beds on these boats are well-nigh +perfect, woven-wire springs and heavy mattresses. They are kept +scrupulously clean—the company is noted for that—and +the steerage is as neat as the main saloon.</p> +<p>One hundred and fifty pounds of baggage is allowed free on board +both boats and trains.</p> +<p>Boats leaving terminal points at any time between 10 p.m. and 7 +a.m., arrange so that passengers can go on board after 7 p.m. and +retire to their state-rooms, thus enjoying an unbroken night's +rest.</p> +<p>Sea-sickness is never met with on the Sound, and very rarely on +the voyage from Portland to San Francisco. On the Pacific, the ship +is never out of sight of land, and the sea is as smooth as a +mill-pond.</p> +<p>The heaviest swell encountered is going over the Columbia River +Bar. The ocean is uniformly placid during the summer months. The +trip, with its freedom from the dust, rush, and roar of a train, +and the inexorable restraint one always feels on the cars, is a +delightful one, and with larger comforts and more luxurious +surroundings, one enjoys the added pleasure of courteous and +thoughtful service from the various officers of the ship.</p> +<p>Taking the "Columbia" as a sample of the class of steamships in +the Union Pacific fleet, we notice that she is 334 feet long, 2,200 +horse-power, nearly 3,000 tonnage, has 65 state-rooms, and can +accommodate 200 saloon and 200 steerage passengers. Steam heat and +electric light are used. In 1880 the first plant from Edison's +factory was put on board the "Columbia," at that time a great +curiosity, she being the first ship to use the incandescent +light.</p> +<center> +<h3>CRATER LAKE.</h3></center> +<img src="Images/07Crater.jpg" alt="CRATER LAKE, ORE." height="442" +width="246" align="right" hspace="20" vspace="2"> +<p>Crater Lake is situate in the northwestern portion of Klamath +county, Oregon, and is best reached by leaving the Southern Pacific +Railroad at Medford, which is 328 miles south of Portland, and +about ninety miles from the lake, which can be reached by a very +good wagon road. The lake is about six miles wide by seven miles +long, but it is not its size which is its beauty or its attraction. +The surface of the water in the lake is 6,251 feet above the level +of the sea, and is surrounded by cliffs or walls from 1,000 to over +2,000 feet in height, and which are scantily covered with timber, +and which offer at but one point a way of reaching the water. The +depth of the water is very great, and it is very transparent, and +of a deep blue color. Toward the southwestern portion of the lake +is Wizard Island, 845 feet high, circular in shape, and slightly +covered with timber. In the top of this island is a depression, or +crater—the Witches' Caldron—100 feet deep, and 475 feet +in diameter, which was evidently the last smoking chimney of a once +mighty volcano, and which is now covered within, as without, with +volcanic rocks. North of this island, and on the west side of the +lake, is Llao Rock, reaching to a height of 2,000 feet above the +water, and so perpendicular that a stone may be dropped from its +summit to the waters at its base, nearly one-half mile below.</p> +<p>So far below the surrounding mountains is the surface of the +waters in this lake, that the mountain breezes but rarely ripple +them; and looking from the surrounding wall, the sky and cliffs are +seen mirrored in the glassy surface, and it is with difficulty the +eye can distinguish the line where the cliffs leave off and their +reflected counterfeits begin.</p> +<center> +<h3>OREGON NATIONAL PARK.</h3></center> +<p>Townships 27, 28, 29, 30, and 31, in Ranges 5 and 6 east of the +Willamette meridian, are asked to be set apart as the Oregon +National Park. This area contains Crater Lake and its approaches. +The citizens of Oregon unanimously petitioned the President for the +reservation of this park, and a bill in conformity with the +petition passed the United States Senate in February, 1888.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr size="4" width="50%" align="center"> +<center> +<h4><i>Third Tour—</i></h4> +<p>From Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and +Tacoma.</p></center> +<p> </p> +<h3>WASHINGTON</h3> +<p>is 340 miles long by about 240 wide. The first actual settlement +by Americans was made at Tumwater in 1845. Prior to this, the +country was known only to trappers and fur traders. Territorial +government was organized in 1853, and Washington was admitted as a +State, November, 1889. The State is almost inexhaustibly rich in +coal and lumber, and has frequently been called the "Pennsylvania +of the Pacific Coast." The precious metals are also found in +abundance in many districts. The yield of wheat is prodigious. +Apples, pears, apricots, plums, prunes, peaches, cherries, grapes, +and all berries flourish in the greatest profusion. Certain it is +that there is no other locality where trees bear so early and +surely as here, and where the fruit is of greater excellence, and +where there are so few drawbacks. At the Centennial Exposition, +Washington Territory fruit-tables were the wonder of visitors and +an attractive feature of the grand display. This Territory carried +off seventeen prizes in a competitive contest where thirty-three +States were represented.</p> +<p>It is a pleasant journey of 150 miles through the pine forests +from Portland to Tacoma. Any one of the splendid steamers of the +Union Pacific may be taken for a trip to Victoria. Leaving Tacoma +in the morning, we sail over that noble sheet of water, Puget +Sound. The hills on either side are darkly green, the Sound +widening slowly as we go. Seattle is reached in three hours, a busy +town of 35,000 people, full of vim, push, and energy. Twenty +million dollars' worth of property went up in flame and smoke in +Seattle's great fire of June 6, 1889. The ashes were scarcely cold +when her enthusiastic citizens began to build anew, better, +stronger, and more beautiful than before. A city of brick, stone, +and iron has arisen, monumental evidence of the energy, pluck, and +perseverance of the people, and of their fervent faith in the +future of Seattle. Then Port Townsend, with its beautiful harbor +and gently sloping bluffs, "the city of destiny," beyond all doubt, +of any of the towns on the Sound. Favored by nature in many ways, +Townsend has the finest roadstead and the best anchorage ground in +these waters, and this must tell in the end, when advantages for +sea trade are considered. Victoria, B.C., is reached in the +evening, and we sleep that night in Her Majesty's dominions. The +next day may be spent very pleasantly in driving and walking about +the city, a handsome town of 14,000 people.</p> +<p> </p> +<center><img src="Images/08Cascades.jpg" alt= +"CASCADES FROM THE OREGON SHORE" height="285" width="509"></center> +<p>A thorough system of macadamized roads radiates from Victoria, +furnishing about 100 miles of beautiful drives. Many of these +drives are lined with very handsome suburban residences, surrounded +with lawns and parks. Esquimalt, near Victoria, has a fine harbor. +This is the British naval station where several iron-clads are +usually stationed. There is also an extensive dry-dock, hewn out of +the solid rock, capacious enough to receive large vessels.</p> +<p>In the evening after dinner, one can return to the steamer and +take possession of a stateroom, for the boat leaves at four in the +morning. When breakfast time comes we are well on our return trip, +and moving past Port Townsend again. The majestic straits of Fuca, +through which we have passed, are well worth a visit; it is a taste +of being at sea without any discomfort, for the water is without a +ripple. As we steam homeward there is a vision which has been +described for all time by a master hand. "One becomes aware of a +vast, white shadow in the water. It is a giant mountain dome of +snow in the depths of tranquil blue. The smoky haze of an Oregon +August hid all the length of its lesser ridges and left this mighty +summit based upon uplifting dimness. Only its splendid snows were +visible high in the unearthly regions of clear, noonday sky. Kingly +and alone stood this majesty without any visible comrade, though +far to the north and south there were isolated sovereigns. This +regal gem the Christians have dubbed Mount Rainier, but more +melodious is its Indian name, 'Tacoma.'"</p> +<center> +<h3>A LEGEND OF TACOMA.</h3></center> +<p>Theodore Winthrop, in his own brilliant way, tells a quaint +legend of Tacoma, as related to him by a frowsy Siwash at +Nisqually. "Tamanous," among the native Indians of this section, is +a vague and half-personified type of the unknown and mysterious +forces of Nature. There is the one all-pervading Tamanous, but +there are a thousand emanations, each one a tamanous with a small +"t." Each Indian has his special tamanous, who thus becomes "the +guide, philosopher, and friend" of every Siwash. The tamanous, or +totem, types himself as a salmon, a beaver, an elk, a canoe, a +fir-tree, and so on indefinitely. In some of its features this +legend resembles strongly the immortal story of Rip Van Winkle; it +may prove interesting as a study in folk-lore.</p> +<blockquote> +<p>"Avarice, O, Boston tyee!" quoth the Siwash, studying me with +dusky eyes, "is a mighty passion. Know you that our first +circulating medium was shells, a small perforated shell not unlike +a very opaque quill toothpick, tapering from the middle, and cut +square at both ends. We string it in many strands and hang it +around the neck of one we love—namely, each man his own neck. +And with this we buy what our hearts desire. Hiaqua, we call it, +and he who has most hiaqua is wisest and best of all the dwellers +on the Sound.</p> +<p>"Now, in old times there dwelt here an old man, a mighty hunter +and fisherman. And he worshipped hiaqua. And always this old man +thought deeply and communed with his wisdom, and while he waited +for elk or salmon he took advice within himself from his +demon—he talked with tamanous. And always his question was, +'How may I put hiaqua in my purse?' But never had Tamanous revealed +to him the secret. There loomed Tacoma, so white and glittering +that it seemed to stare at him very terribly and mockingly, and to +know of his shameful avarice, and how it led him to take from +starving women their cherished lip and nose jewels of hiaqua, and +give them in return tough scraps of dried elk-meat and salmon. His +own peculiar tamanous was the elk. One day he was hunting on the +sides of Tacoma, and in that serene silence his tamanous began to +talk to his soul. 'Listen!' said tamanous—and then the great +secret of untold wealth was revealed to him. He went home and made +his preparations, told his old, ill-treated squaw he was going for +a long hunt, and started off at eventide. The next night he camped +just below the snows of Tacoma, but sunrise and he struck the +summit together, for there, tamanous had revealed to him, was +hiaqua—hiaqua that should make him the greatest and richest +of his tribe. He looked down and saw a hollow covered with snow, +save at the centre, where a black lake lay deep in a well of purple +rock, and at one end of the lake were three large stones or +monuments. Down into the crater sprang the miser, and the morning +sunshine followed him. He found the first stone shaped like a +salmon head; the second like a kamas root, and the third, to his +great joy, was the carven image of an elk's head. This was his own +tamanous, and right joyous was he at the omen, so taking his +elk-horn pick he began to dig right sturdily at the foot of the +monument. At the sound of the very first blow he made, thirteen +gigantic otters came out of the black lake and, sitting in a +circle, watched him. And at every thirteenth blow they tapped the +ground with their tails in concert The miser heeded them not, but +labored lustily for hours. At last, overturning a thin scale of +rock, he found a square cavity filled to the brim with hiaqua.</p> +<p>"He was a millionaire.</p> +<p>"The otters retired to a respectful distance, recognizing him as +a favorite of Tamanous.</p> +<p>"He reveled in the treasure, exulting. Deep as he could plunge +his arm, there was still more hiaqua below. It was strung upon elk +sinews, fifty shells on a string. But he saw the noon was passed, +so he prepared to depart. He loaded himself with countless strings +of hiaqua, by fifties and hundreds, so that he could scarcely +stagger along. Not a string did he hang on the tamanous of the elk, +or the salmon, or the kamas—not one—but turned eagerly +toward his long descent. At once all the otters plunged back into +the lake and began to beat the waters with their tails; a thick, +black mist began to rise threateningly. Terrible are the storms in +the mountains—and Tamanous was in this one. Instantly the +fierce whirlwind overtook the miser. He was thrown down and flung +over icy banks, but he clung to his precious burden. Utter night +was around him, and in every crash and thunder of the gale was a +growing undertone which he well knew to be the voice of Tamanous. +Floating upon this undertone were sharper tamanous voices, shouting +and screaming, always sneeringly, 'Ha, ha, hiaqua!—ha, ha, +ha!' Whenever the miser attempted to continue his descent the +whirlwind caught him and tossed him hither and thither, flinging +him into a pinching crevice, burying him to the eyes in a snow +drift, throwing him on jagged boulders, or lacerating him on sharp +lava jaws. But he held fast to his hiaqua. The blackness grew ever +deeper and more crowded with perdition; the din more impish, +demoniac, and devilish; the laughter more appalling; and the miser +more and more exhausted with vain buffeting. He at last thought to +propitiate exasperated Tamanous, and threw away a string of hiaqua. +But the storm was renewed blacker, louder, crueler than before. +String by string he parted with his treasure, until at the last, +sorely wounded, terrified, and weak, with a despairing cry, he cast +from him the last vestige of wealth, and sank down insensible.</p> +<p>"It seemed a long slumber to him, but at last he woke. He was +upon the very spot whence he started at morning. He felt hungry, +and made a hearty breakfast of the chestnut-like bulbs of the kamas +root, and took a smoke. Reflecting on the events of yesterday, he +became aware of an odd change in his condition. He was not bruised +and wounded, as he expected, but very stiff only, and his joints +creaked like the creak of a lazy paddle on the rim of a canoe. His +hair was matted and reached a yard down his back. 'Tamanous,' +thought the old man. But chiefly he was conscious of a mental +change. He was calm and content. Hiaqua and wealth seemed to have +lost their charm for him. Tacoma, shining like gold and silver and +precious stones of gayest lustre, seemed a benign comrade and +friend. All the outer world was cheerful, and he thought he had +never wakened to a fresher morning. He rose and started on his +downward way, but the woods seemed strangely transformed since +yesterday; just before sunset he came to the prairie where his +lodge used to be; he saw an old squaw near the door crooning a +song; she was decked with many strings of hiaqua and costly beads. +It was his wife; and she told him he had been gone many, many +years—she could not tell how many; that she had remained +faithful and constant to him, and distracted her mind from the +bitterness of sorrow by trading in kamas and magic herbs, and had +thus acquired a genteel competence. But little cared the sage for +such things; he, was rejoiced to be at home and at peace, and near +his own early gains of hiaqua and treasure buried in a place of +security. He imparted whatever he possessed—material +treasures or stores of wisdom and experience—freely to all +the land. Every dweller came to him for advice how to spear the +salmon, chase the elk, or propitiate Tamanous. He became the great +medicine man of the Siwashes and a benefactor to his tribe and +race. Within a year after he came down from his long nap on the +side of Tacoma, a child, my father, was born to him. The sage lived +many years, revered and beloved, and on his death-bed told this +history to my father as a lesson and a warning. My father dying, +told it to me. But I, alas! have no son; I grow old, and lest this +wisdom perish from the earth, and Tamanous be again obliged to +interpose against avarice, I tell the tale to thee, O Boston tyee. +Mayst thou and thy nation not disdain this lesson of an earlier +age, but profit by it and be wise!"</p></blockquote> +<p>So far the Siwash recounted his legend without the palisades of +Fort Nisqually, and motioning, in expressive pantomime, at the +close, that he was dry with big talk and would gladly "wet his +whistle."</p> +<p> </p> +<center><img src="Images/09RoosterRock.jpg" alt= +"ROOSTER ROCK, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE." height="309" width= +"565"></center> +<p>The town of Tacoma contains about 15,000 inhabitants, and is in +a highly prosperous condition. From here one may start on the grand +Alaskan tour, winding up through all the wonders of sound and +strait, bay and ocean, to the far North summerland—a trip of +most entrancing interest. The return from Tacoma to Portland may be +made by either rail or boat.</p> +<p>So much has already been said in preceding pages about Puget +Sound that it would seem the subject might be somewhat overdone. +But it still remains to be said that justice can never be done to +the scenic glories of this beautiful inland sea. The views from +different points, and from almost every point on the Sound, are of +sublime grandeur. On the east are the Cascade Mountains, ranging +from 5,000 to 14,444 feet in height, Mount Rainier for Tacoma, (as +it is also called) being of the latter altitude, and only third in +height of the mountains of the United States. On the west are the +Olympic Mountains, the highest peaks of which reach up to 8,000 +feet. Both ranges, brilliantly snow-crowned, are within view at the +same time from various points, and the scenery in its entirety, +with its continual changefulness and features of sublimity, can not +be excelled. Strangers and travelers who have visited every part of +the world never leave the deck of the steamers while going through +the waters of the Sound country. In noting a single feature, Mount +Rainier, Senator George F. Edmunds wrote as follows: "I have been +through the Swiss mountains, and am compelled to own that there is +no comparison between the finest effects exhibited there and what +is seen in approaching this grand and isolated mountain. I would be +willing to go 500 miles again to see that scene. The Continent is +yet in ignorance of what will be one of the grandest show places, +as well as sanitariums. If Switzerland is rightly called the +play-ground of Europe, I am satisfied that around the base of Mt. +Rainier will become a prominent place of resort, not for America +only, but for the world besides, with thousands of sites for +building purposes that are nowhere excelled for the grandeur of the +view that can be obtained from them, with topographical features +that would make the most perfect system of drainage both possible +and easy, and with a most agreeable and health-giving climate."</p> +<p>A more enthusiastic writer says: "Puget Sound scenery is the +grandest scenery in the world. One has here in combination the +sublimity of Switzerland, the picturesqueness of the Rhine, the +rugged beauty of Norway, the breezy variety of the Thousand Islands +of the St. Lawrence, or the Hebrides of the North Sea, the soft, +rich-toned skies of Italy, the pastoral landscape of England, with +velvet meadows and magnificent groves, massed with floral bloom, +and the blending tints and bold color of the New England Indian +summer. Features with which nothing within the vision of another +city can be placed in comparison are the Olympic range of mountains +in front of Seattle, and the sublime snow peaks of the Rainier, +Baker, Adams, and St. Helens, with their glaciers and robes of +eternal white, and the great falls of the Snoqualmie, 280 feet +high, near by."</p> +<center><img src="Images/10StHelens.jpg" alt="MOUNT ST. HELENS" +height="329" width="598"></center> +<p>The geography and topography of this sheet are alone a wonder +and a study. Glance upon the map. The elements of earth and water +seem to have struggled for dominion one over the other. The Strait +of Juan de Fuca and the Gulf of Georgia to the south narrow into +Admiralty Inlet; the inlet penetrates the very heart of the +Territory, cutting the land into most grotesque shapes, circling +and twisting into a hundred minor inlets, into which flow a hundred +rivers, fed in their turn by myriads of smaller creeks and +bayous—a veritable network of lakes, streams, peninsulas, and +islands which, with the mountain ranges backing the landscapes on +either hand, can not fail to be picturesque in the extreme. Here on +the placid bosom of this inland sea, the pleasure seeker can enjoy +all the delights and exhilarating influences of ocean travel +without its inconveniences. No sea sickness, no proneness to +reflect on "to be or not to be," but, amid the bracing breezes, the +steady, easy glide of the commodious steamer over pleasant waters, +takes him through scenes as fair as the poet's brightest dreams. +This "Mediterranean of the Pacific" throughout its length and +breadth is adorned with heavily-wooded and fantastically-formed +islands. The giant firs are the tallest and straightest in the +world. Here the "Great Eastern" came for her masts, and here +thousands of ships obtain their spars yearly.</p> +<p>To repeat, the scenery is indeed something unsurpassed. A ride +over these placid waters, in and out, around rocky headlands, among +woody mountains, along beautiful beaches and graceful tongues of +velvety meadows—all 'neath the shadows of towering, snow-clad +peaks, is a delight worth days of travel to experience. It +enraptures the artist and enthuses even ordinarily prosy folks. +There is no single feature wanting to make of such places as +Tacoma, Seattle, and Port Townsend, the most delightful and +agreeable watering places in the world. Surrounded by magnificent +and picturesque scenery, with beautiful drives and lovely bays for +yachting purposes, with splendid fishing and sport of every +description to be had, with a climate that would charm a +misanthrope, why should they not become the favorite resorts on the +Great West Coast? These facts led to the building of the +magnificent Hotel Tacoma, at a cost of a quarter of a million +dollars. Other such caravansaries will follow, and in time Puget +Sound will be famous the world over for its incomparable +attractions for the health and pleasure seeker.</p> +<p>The average traveler has but a faint idea of the wonderful +resources of this grand empire. Puget Sound has about 1,800 miles +of shore line, and all along this long stretch is one vast and +almost unbroken forest of enormous trees. The forests are so vast +that, although the saw-mills have been ripping 500,000,000 feet of +lumber out of them every year for the past ten years, the spaces +made by these inroads seem no more than garden patches. An official +estimate places the amount of standing timber in that area at +500,000,000,000 feet, or a thousand years' supply, even at the +enormous rate the timber is now being felled and sawed.</p> +<p>In the vicinity of Olympia, the capital of Washington, are a +number of popular resorts for sportsmen and campers—beautiful +lakes filled with voracious trout, and streams alive with the +speckled mountain beauties. The forests abound in bear and deer, +while grouse, pheasants, quail, and water-fowl afford fine sport to +the hunter of small game.</p> +<center> +<h3>THE NEW EMPIRE OF EASTERN WASHINGTON.</h3></center> +<p>The recent extensions of the Union Pacific System have aided in +the most important way the development of the richest and most +fertile lands of Eastern Washington. The great plains of the Upper +Columbia, stretching from the river away to the far north, are +incomparably rich, the soil of great depth and wondrous fertility, +rainless harvests, and a luxuriance of farm and garden produce +which is almost tropical in its wealth. This favored region has +been for years known as the</p> +<center> +<h3>PALOUSE COUNTRY,</h3></center> +<p>and is reached from Portland via Pendleton, on the main line of +the Union Pacific Ry. From Pendleton to Spokane Falls on the north +the soil is rich beyond belief; a black, loamy deposit so deep that +it seems well-nigh inexhaustible. This heavy soil predominates in +the valleys, and while the uplands are not so rich, still immense +crops of wheat are raised. For hundreds of miles on this new +division of the Union Pacific the country is a perfect garden land +of wheat and fruit, and these farms are often of mammoth +proportions. Here are 13,000,000 acres of land possessing all the +requirements and advantages of climate and soil for the making of +one vast wheat-field. The enormous yield of 7,000,000 bushels of +wheat has been harvested in one valley.</p> +<p>The authentic figures of the crop yield in this splendid country +seem almost incredible. Fifty thousand bushels of wheat have been +raised on 1,000 acres of land. As low as 35 bushels and as high as +74¼ bushels of wheat to the acre have been harvested in this +section. The average covered seems to be from 47 to 55 bushels per +acre, and no fertilizers of any sort being required. The berry in +its full maturity is very solid, weighing from 65 to 69 pounds per +bushel, this being from five to nine pounds over standard weight. +While wheat is the staple product, oats are also grown, the yield +being very heavy. Rye, barley, and flax are also successfully +cultivated. Clover, bunch-grass, and alfalfa grow finely.</p> +<p>In the growing of fruits and vegetables this grand empire of +Eastern Washington is quite unsurpassed. At one of the recent +agricultural fairs a farmer exhibited 109 varieties of fruits, +vegetables, and cereals. These included the best qualities of +Yellow Nansemond sweet potatoes, mammoth melons of all varieties, +eggplant, sorghum and syrup cane, broom-corn, tobacco, grapes, +cotton, peanuts, and many other things, some of which do not attain +to so high a degree of excellence elsewhere farther north than the +Carolinas. Peaches, apples, and prunes of superior quality +delighted the eye. Peaches had been marketed continuously, from, +the same orchards, from the 15th of July to the 15th of October. +There were hanging in the pavilion diplomas awarded at the New +Orleans Exposition to citizens in this valley for exhibits of the +best qualities and greatest varieties of corn, wheat, oats, barley, +and hops.</p> +<p>The advantage to the farmer of rainless harvesting months is +obvious. The wheat is all harvested by headers, leaving the straw +on the ground for its enrichment. Thus binding, hauling, and +sacking are largely dispensed with. The grain, when threshed, is +piled on the ground in jute sacks, saving the expense of granaries +and hauling to and from them. These jute sacks cost for each bushel +of grain about 3 cents, which is far less than farmers elsewhere +are subjected to in hauling their grain to and from granaries and +through a system of elevators until it reaches shipboard.</p> +<p>Here, as well as in Western Washington, most vegetables grow to +an enormous size, and are of superior quality when compared with +the same varieties grown in the East. Those kinds that require much +heat, as melons, tobacco, peppers, egg-plants, etc., grow to great +perfection. The root crops—beets, carrots, parsnips, +potatoes, turnips, etc.—yield prodigiously on the fertile +bottom-land soils, without much care besides ordinary cultivation. +The table beet soon gets too large for the dinner-pot. It is +nothing unusual for a garden beet to weigh ten pounds, and they +often grow to eighteen or twenty pounds' weight. Mangel wurzel, the +stock beet, sometimes grows to forty and fifty pounds' weight, if +given room and proper cultivation. They may easily be made to +produce twenty-five tons per acre on good soil. All other +vegetables, such as parsnips, carrots, peas, beans, tomatoes, +onions, cabbages, celery, and cauliflower, are perfectly at home on +every farm of Eastern Washington. Market gardening is becoming +quite an important pursuit, and holds out particularly high +inducements to the farmer, because of the superb market now +afforded by the non-producing mineral and timber regions, easily +accessible in this and adjacent Territories.</p> +<p>There are over 2,000 square miles of arable land in this +magnificent region, and there has never been a crop failure since +its settlement. Outside of Government lands prices range at from $4 +to $10 per acre for unimproved, and from $12 to $20 for improved +lands.</p> +<p><img src="Images/11HorseTail.jpg" alt="HORSE TAIL FALLS, ORE." +height="466" width="230" align="left" hspace="20" vspace="2">Along +the line of Union Pacific in this grand new empire will be found +many energetic, thriving young towns, all possessing those social +and educational facilities which are now a part of every Western +village. Pendleton, on the main line, is a wide-awake, bustling +young city, situated in a fine agricultural district. Walla Walla, +Athena, Weston, Waitsburg, Dayton, Pullman, Garfield, Latah, Tekoa, +Colfax, Moscow, Farmington, and Rockford are all thriving towns, +and are already good distributing centers. The last-named town +enjoys the advantage of being in the center of a fine lumber +district, and within a circuit of five miles from Rockford there +are ten saw-mills, besides an inexhaustible supply of mica. +Crossing the border into Idaho, rich silver and lead mines are +found along the Coeur d'Alene River.</p> +<p>Rockford is twenty-four miles from Spokane Falls, and has about +1,000 population; its elevation is 2,440 feet. Four miles distant +is the boundary of the Coeur d'Alene Reservation, a lovely tract, +thirty by seventy miles in extent, embracing beautiful Coeur +d'Alene Lake and the three rivers, St. Joseph, St. Marys, and Coeur +d'Alene, which empty into it. There about 250 Indians on this +reservation, and they enjoy the proud distinction of being the only +tribe who refuse Government aid. They have been offered the usual +rations, but preferred to remain independent. They live in houses, +farm quite extensively, and use all kinds of improved farm +machinery; many of them are quite wealthy. The lake is one of the +prettiest sheets of water on the continent; its waters are full of +salmon, and in the heavy pine woods are many varieties of game, +from quail to grizzly bear and elk. The town of Rockford will in +the near future assume importance as a tourist point, both from its +own healthy and picturesque location, and its nearness to Coeur +d'Alene Lake. A Government Commission is now at work on a +settlement with the Indians, whereby the whole or a part of this +noble domain will be thrown open to the public. The peculiar +attractions of Coeur d'Alene must in a short time render it a much +sought for resort.</p> +<center> +<h3>SPOKANE FALLS</h3></center> +<p>is one of those miracles possible only in the alert, aggressive +West. When Mr. Hayes was inaugurated it was a blank wilderness. Not +a single civilized being lived within a hundred miles of it. One +day in 1878 a white man came along in a "bull team," saw the wild +rapids and the mighty falls of the Spokane River, reflected on the +history of St. Paul and Minneapolis with their little Falls of St. +Anthony, looked at the tide of immigration just turning toward the +farther Northwest, and concluded he would sit right down where he +was and wait for a city to grow around him. This far-sighted +pioneer is still living within earshot of those rumbling falls, and +they make a cheerful music for him. The city is there with him, +22,000 people, and he can draw a check to-day good for $1,000,000. +For several years his eyes fell on nothing but gravel-beds and +foamy waters. Now, as he looks around, he sees mills and factories, +railroad lines to the north, south, east, and west, churches, +theatres, school-houses, costly dwellings and stores, paved +streets, and all that makes living easy and comfortable. The +greater part of this has come within his vision since 1883. But +even then there was quite a village. After this pioneer had spent a +lonely year or two on his homestead, two other men came along. They +were friends, who, upon an outing, had chanced to meet. They were +captivated by the waterfall, and by what the pioneer told them of +the fine fanning lands in the adjacent country, and they offered +each to take a third of his holding. Then they began to advertise, +and to place adventurous farmers on homestead claims. They were +wise in their day and generation, and they worked harder to fill +the country with grain-producers than to sell real estate around +the falls. They soon had their reward. The merchants were quickly +provided with store-houses, rental values were kept low, every +inducement was offered that could possibly stimulate building +activity, and in three years the farming country was made to +perceive that Spokane was its natural point of entry and of +shipment. The turbulent waters of the Spokane River, a clear and +beautiful mountain stream, were caught above the falls, and +directed wherever the factories and mills that had been established +above them required their services. Four large flouring-mills +quickly took advantage of the rich opportunity growing out of this +unique situation.</p> +<p>From two enormous agricultural areas they are enabled to draw +their supplies of grain, flour, therefore, being manufactured for +the farmers more cheaply at Spokane: than anywhere else. This +circumstance alone exercised a large influence in giving the new +town a hold upon the country districts. These constitute more than +a region—they are really a grand division of the State, and +form what is known as the Great Plain of the Columbia River.</p> +<center> +<h3>THE COEUR D'ALENE MINES</h3></center> +<p>have reached a high and profitable state of development. These +mines extend over a comparatively limited area. They are close +together, and their ores, producing gold, silver, and lead, are all +similar. Their output for the last three years has been quite +remarkable, and has placed the Coeur d'Alene district among the +foremost lead-producing regions in the country. Gold, associated +with iron, and treated by the free-milling process, is largely +found in the northern part of the district, but the greatest amount +of tonnage is derived from the southern country, where the Galena +silver mines, a dozen or more in number, have been discovered. That +minerals in large quantity existed in this country has been known +for years. But the want of railroad facilities for a long while +prevented any serious effort to get at them. The matter of +transportation is now laid at rest, and within the last three years +$1,000,000 has been spent in development. The returns have already +more than justified the investment.</p> +<p>Tributary to Spokane, and reached by the various railroads now +in operation, are five other mining districts, at Colville, +Okanagan, Kootenai, Metaline, and Pend d'Oreille. They are in +various stages of development, but their wealth and availability +have been clearly ascertained. Spokane's population, in a degree +greater than that of most all these new cities, consists of young +men and young women from the New England and Middle States. They +have enjoyed a remarkable and wholly uninterrupted period of +prosperity. Some of them have grown quickly and immensely rich from +real estate operations, but the great majority have yet to realize +on their investments because of the large sacrifices they have made +in building up the city. They are to-day in an admirable position. +As they have made money they have spent it; spent it in street +railroads, in the laying out of drives, in the building of +comfortable houses, in the establishment of electrical plants, and +in a large number of local improvements, every one of which has +borne its part in making the city attractive.</p> +<center> +<h3>WONDERFUL VITALITY.</h3></center> +<p>It has been well said of Spokane Falls, that "it was another +fire-devastated city that did not seem to know it was hurt."</p> +<img src="Images/12Oneonta.jpg" alt="ONEONTA GORGE" height="503" +width="254" align="right" hspace="20" vspace="2"> +<p>If Washington can stand the loss of millions of dollars in its +four great fires of the year, at Cheney, Ellensburg, Seattle, and +Spokane, it is the strongest evidence that its recuperative powers +have solid backing. It does seem to stand the loss, and actually +thrive under it.</p> +<p>The great fire at Spokane Falls on the 4th of August, 1889, +burned most of the business portion of the city. Four hundred and +fifty houses of brick, stone, and wood were destroyed, entailing a +loss, according to the computation of the local agent of R.G. Dun +& Co., of about $4,500,000.</p> +<p>The insurance in the burned district amounted to $2,600,000.</p> +<p>No people were ever in better condition to meet disaster, and +none ever met it with braver hearts or with quicker and more +resolute determination to survive the blow.</p> +<p>The city was in the midst of a period of marvelous prosperity. +Its population was increasing rapidly, many fine buildings were in +process of construction, its trade was extending over a vast region +of country which was being penetrated by new railroads centering +within its limits, and there were flowing to it the rich fruits of +half a dozen prosperous mining districts.</p> +<p>Its working people were all employed at good wages, and money +was abundant with all classes.</p> +<p>Hardly had the sun of the day following the fire risen upon the +scene of smoking desolation, when preparations began for +rebuilding. It was felt at once that the city would be rebuilt more +substantially and more handsomely than before.</p> +<p>The rebuilding of Spokane commenced on a very extensive scale; +the city will be entirely restored within twelve months, and far +more attractively than ever before. The class of buildings erected +are of a very superior character. The new Opera House has been +modeled after the Broadway Theatre, New York; the new Hotel +Spokane, a structure creditable not only to the city, but to the +entire Pacific Northwest; five National Bank buildings, at a cost +of $100,000 each; upon the burned district have arisen buildings +solid in substance, and beautiful architecturally, varying from +five to seven stories in height, and costing all the way from +$60,000 to $300,000. This sturdy young giant of the North arises +from her ashes stronger, more attractive, more substantial, than +before. And there is abundant reason for solid faith in the future +of Spokane Falls.</p> +<p>It is the metropolis of a region 200,000 square miles in extent, +including 50,000 square miles of Washington, or all that portion +east of the Cascade Mountains, more than half of Idaho, the +northern and eastern portions of Oregon, a large part of Montana, +and as much of British Columbia as would make a State as large as +New York.</p> +<p>It is the distributing point for the Coeur d'Alene, the +Colville, the Kootenai, and the Okanagan mining districts, all of +which are in a prosperous condition, and all of which are yielding +rich and growing tributes of trade.</p> +<p>It has adjacent to it the finest wheat-growing country in the +world, producing from 30 to 60 bushels per acre.</p> +<p>It has adjacent to it a country equally rich in the production +of fruits and vegetables.</p> +<p>It has adjacent to it the finest meadow lands between the +Cascade and Rocky Mountains.</p> +<p>It has adjacent to it extensive grazing lands, on which are +hundreds of thousands of cattle, sheep, and horses.</p> +<p>It has, adjacent to it, on Lakes Pend d'Oreille and Coeur +d'Alene, inexhaustible quantities of white pine, yellow pine, cedar +and tamarack, the manufacturing of which into lumber is one of the +important industries of the city, and a source of great future +income.</p> +<p>It has a power in the falls of the Spokane River second to none +in the United States, and capable of supplying construction room +and power for 300 different mills and manufactories. The entire +electric lighting plant of the city, the cable railway system, the +electric railway system, the machinery for the city water works, +and all the mills and factories of the city—the amount of +wheat which was last year ground into flour exceeding 20,000 +tons—are now operated by the power from the falls. One +company alone, the Washington Water Power Company, having a capital +of $1,000,000, is now spending upward of $300,000 in the +construction of flumes and other improvements for the accommodation +of new mills and factories.</p> +<p>Most fortunately for the city, all the milling properties and +improvements on the falls and along the river were saved from the +fire.</p> +<p>The city has a water-works system which cost nearly half a +million dollars, and which is capable of supplying 12,000,000 +gallons daily, or as much as the supply of Minneapolis when it had +a population of 100,000, or as much as the present supply of Denver +with a population of 120,000, and more than the City of Portland, +Oregon, with a population of 60,000.</p> +<center> +<h3>A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SPOKANE FALLS.</h3></center> +<p>It requires no very profound knowledge of Western geography, no +very lengthy study of the State of Washington, to enable anyone to +understand without difficulty some of the minor reasons why Spokane +Falls should become a great and important city, the metropolis of a +vast surrounding country. A glance at the map will show the +mountain range that extends up through the Idaho Panhandle, and +then along the British Columbia frontier, to the east and north of +the city. These mountains are incalculably rich in ores of all +kinds, and would amply suffice to make a Denver of Spokane Falls, +even if she had no other natural resources to draw from. The +Spokane River is the outlet of Lake Coeur d'Alene, a sheet of water +sixty miles by six, which is fed by the St. Joseph, St. Mary and +Coeur d'Alene Rivers, and which flows through a vast plain until it +empties its waters into the Columbia, the Mississippi of the +Pacific Coast. From its point of junction with the Spokane, the +Columbia makes a big bend in its course until the Snake River is +reached, when it turns once more westward, and flows on to empty +into the Pacific Ocean. South of the city, stretching westward for +some distance from the mountains, and extending in a southerly +direction to the Clearwater and Snake Rivers, is a vast country +comprising millions of acres, through which the Palouse River and +its tributary streams meander, and which is known as the Palouse +Valley, a country of unlimited agricultural resources. In the +center of all this immense territory is located Spokane Falls, like +the hub in the center of a wheel. The word immense is not used +unwittingly, for the mountains and plains and valleys make up a +country that in Europe would be called a nation, and in New England +would form a State. Only a far-off corner of the Union, it may seem +to some readers, yet there are powerful empires which possess less +natural resources than it can call its own. The city itself lies on +both sides of the Spokane River, at the point where that stream, +separated by rocky islands into five separate channels, rushes +onward and downward, at first being merely a series of rapids, and +then tumbling over the rocks in a number of beautiful and useful +waterfalls, until the several streams unite once again for a final +plunge of sixty feet, making a fall of 157 feet in the distance of +half a mile. This waterfall, with its immense power, would alone +make a city; engineers have estimated its force at 90,000 +horse-power, and it is so distributed that it can be easily +utilized.</p> +<center><img src="Images/13FishWheel.jpg" alt= +"A FISH WHEEL, COLUMBIA RIVER" height="300" width="528"></center> +<p> </p> +<hr size="4" width="50%" align="center"> +<center> +<h4><i>Fourth Tour</i>—To</h4></center> +<h3>ALASKA.</h3> +<p>The native islanders called the mainland "Al-ay-ek-sa," which +signifies "great country," and the word has been corrupted into +"Alaska." This immense empire, it will be remembered, was sold by +Russia to the United States October 18, 1867, for $7,500,000. The +country was discovered by Vitus Behring in 1741. Alaska has an area +of 578,000 square miles, and is nearly one-fifth as large as all +the other States and Territories combined. It is larger than twelve +States the size of New York.</p> +<p>The best time to visit Alaska is from May to September. The +latter month is usually lovely, and the sea beautifully smooth, but +the days begin to grow short. The trip occupies about twenty-five +days.</p> +<p>As the rainfall in Alaska is usually very large, it naturally +follows that an umbrella is a convenient companion. A gossamer for +a lady and a mackintosh for a gentleman, and heavy shoes, and +coarse, warm and comfortable clothing for both should be +provided.</p> +<p>There are no "Palace" hotels in Alaska. One will have no desire +to remain over there a trip. The tourist goes necessarily when and +where the steamer goes, will have an opportunity to see all there +is of note or worth seeing in Southeastern Alaska. The steamer +sometimes goes north as far as Chilcat, say up to about the 58th +degree of north latitude. The pleasure is not so much in the +stopping as in the going. One is constantly passing through new +channels, past new islands, opening up new points of interest, +until finally a surfeit of the grand and magnificent in nature is +reached.</p> +<p>A correspondent of a western journal signing himself "Emerald" +has written a description of this Alaskan tour in September, 1888. +It is so charmingly done, so fresh, so vivid, and so full of +interesting detail, that it is given herewith entire:</p> +<blockquote> +<p>ON STEAMSHIP "GEORGE W. ELDER,"</p> +<p>PUGET SOUND, September, 1888.</p> +<p>We have all thought we were fairly appreciative of the wealth +and wonders of Uncle Sam's domain. At Niagara we have gloried in +the belief that all the cataracts of other lands were tame; but we +changed our mind when we stood on the brink of Great Shoshone +Falls. In Yellowstone the proudest thought was that all the world's +other similar wonders were commonplace; and at Yosemite's +Inspiration Point the unspeakable thrill of awe and delight was +richly heightened by the grand idea that there was no such majesty +or glory beyond either sea. But after all this, we now know that it +yet remains for the Alaskan trip to rightly round out one's +appreciation and admiration of the size and grandeur of our native +land.</p> +<p>Some of our most delighted <i>voyageurs</i> are from Portland, +Maine. When they had journeyed some 1,500 miles to Omaha they +imagined themselves at least half way across our continent. Then, +when they had finished that magnificent stretch of some 1,700 miles +more from Omaha to Portland, Oregon, in the palace cars of the +Union Pacific, they were quite sure of it. Of course, they +confessed a sense of mingled disappointment and eager anticipation +when they learned that they were yet less than half way. They +learned what is a fact—that the extreme west coast of Alaska +is as far west of Sitka as Portland, Maine, is east of Portland, +Oregon, and the further fact that San Francisco lacks 4,000 mile's +of being as far west as Uncle Sam's "Land's End," at extreme +Western Alaska. It is a great country; great enough to contain one +river—the Yukon—about as large as the Mississippi, and +a coast line about twice as long as all the balance of the United +States. It is twelve times as large as the State of New York, with +resources that astonish every visitor, and a climate not altogether +bad, as some would have it. The greatest trouble is that during the +eighteen years it has been linked to our chain of Territories it +has been treated like a discarded offspring or outcast, cared for +more by others than its lawful protector. But, like many a refugee, +it is carving for itself a place which others will yet envy. But, +to</p> +<h4>OUR TRIP.</h4> +<p>There are seven in our party, mainly from Chicago. After a week +of delightful mountaineering at Idaho Springs, in Platte +Cañon, and other Union Pacific resorts in Colorado, we +indulged in that delicious plunge at Garfield Beach, Salt Lake, +and, en route to Portland over the Union Pacific Ry., quaffed that +all but nectar at Soda Springs, Idaho, and dropped off a day to +take a peep, at Shoshone Falls, which, in all seriousness, have +attractions of which even our great Niagara can not boast. We found +that glorious dash down through the palisades of the Columbia, and +the sail, through the entrancing waterways of Puget Sound, a +fitting prelude to our recent Alaskan journey.</p> +<p>The Alaskan voyage is like a continuous dream of pleasure, so +placid and quiet are the waters of the landlocked sea and so +exquisitely beautiful the environment. The route keeps along the +east shore of Vancouver Island its entire length, through the Gulf +of Georgia, Johnstone strait, and out into Queen Charlotte Sound, +where is felt the first swell of old ocean, and our staunch +steamship "Elder" was rocked in its cradle for about four hours. +Oftentimes we seemed to be bound by mountains on every side, with +no hope of escape; but the faithful deck officer on watch would +give his orders in clear, full tones that brought the bow to some +passage leading to the great beyond. In narrow straits the steamer +had to wait for the tide; then would she weave in and out, like a +shuttle in a loom, among the buoys, leaving the black ones on the +left and the red ones on the right, and ever and anon they would be +in a straight line, with the wicked boulder-heads visible beneath +the surface or lifting their savage points above, compelling almost +a square corner to be turned in order to avoid them. At such times +the passengers were all on deck, listening to the captain's +commands, and watching the boat obey his bidding.</p> +<p>From Victoria to Tongas Narrows the distance is 638 miles, and +here was the first stop for the tourists. The event here was going +ashore in rowboats, and in the rain, only to see a few dirty +Indians—a foresight of what was to follow—and a +salmon-packing house not yet in working order.</p> +<p>From Tongas Narrows to Fort Wrangel, thousands of islands fill +the water, while the mainland is on the right and Prince of Wales +Island on the extreme left.</p> +<h4>FORT WRANGEL.</h4> +<p>Like all Alaska towns, it is situated at the base of lofty peaks +along the water's edge at the head of moderately pretty harbors. It +seems to be the generic home of storms, and the mountains, the +rocks, the buildings, and trees, and all, show the weird workings +of nature's wrath. In 1863 it was a thriving town where miners +outfitted for the mines of the Stikeen river and Cassian mines of +British Columbia; but that excitement has temporarily subsided, and +the $150,000 government buildings are falling in decay. The streets +are filled with debris, and everything betokens the ravages of +time. The largest and most grotesque totem poles seen on the trip +here towered a height of fifty feet. Those poles represent a +history of the family and the ancestry as far as they can trace it. +If they are of the Wolf tribe a huge wolf is carved at the top of +the pole, and then on down with various signs to the base, the +great events of the family and the intermarriages, not forgetting +to give place to the good and bad gods who assisted them. The +genealogy of a tribe is always traced back through the mother's +side. The totem poles are sometimes very large, perhaps four feet +at the base. When the carving is completed they are planted firmly +in front of the hut, there to stay until they fall away. At the +lower end, some four feet from the ground, there is an opening into +the already hollowed pole, and in this are put the bones of the +burned bodies of the family. It is only the wealthier families who +support a totem pole, and no amount of money can induce an Indian +to part with his family tree.</p> +<h4>THE GRAVES</h4> +<p>of those not having totems are found in clusters, or scattered +on the mountain sides, or anywhere convenience dictates. The bones +are put in a box with all the belongings of the deceased, and then +deposited anywhere. The natives are exceedingly superstitious and +jealous in their care of the dead, and would sooner die than molest +or steal from a grave. That tourists who are supposed to be +civilized, refined, and Christianized should steal from them is a +crime which should never be tolerated, as it was among the +passengers of our steamer.</p> +<h4>JUNEAU—THE TREADWELL MINE.</h4> +<p>After leaving Wrangel the steamer anchored off Salmon Bay to +lighter eighty tons of salt for fishermen, then on to Juneau and +Douglas Islands. Here was the same general appearance of location, +the gigantic background of densely wooded mountains, the +tide-washed streets, on broken slopes, the dirty native women with +their wares for sale, with prices advanced 200 per cent, since the +steamer whistled, and behind them their stern male companions, +goading them on to make their sales, and stealthily kicking them in +their crouched positions if they came down on their prices to an +eager but economical tourist.</p> +<p>Juneau is the only town of any importance on the mainland. It +has arisen to that dignity through the quality of its mines, and it +is now the mining centre of Alaska. Here we found Edward I. +Parsons, of San Francisco, erecting an endless-rope tramway for +conducting ores to a ten-stamp mill now under construction. Mr. +Parsons has had large experience in this line, and his tales of +"Tramway Life" in Mexico are intensely thrilling and full of +interest. It is to be hoped that the good people of Juneau will see +to it that he does not have to eat the native dishes, as he did in +the land of the greasers. The festive dog is all right in his +place, but rather revolting to an epicure.</p> +<p>The famous Treadwell gold mine lies across the bay, on Douglas +Island. It is noted, not so much for its richness per ton, but for +its vast extent. The 120-stamp mill makes such a deafening noise +that there is no fear that the curious minded will cause +employés to waste any time answering questions, for nothing +can be heard but the rise and fall of the great crushers and the +crunching of the ores. The ore is so plentiful that an addition of +120 stamps is being added to the present capacity. The hole blasted +by the miners looks like the crater of a huge volcano without the +circling top, and sloping down to an apex from which is the tunnel +to the mill. The Treadwell yields about $200,000 per month, and +will double that when the mill is completed.</p> +<p>There are many pleasant homes in Juneau, and some of its society +people are charming indeed. The business houses carry some large +stocks of goods, and outfitting for the interior mines in the Yukon +country is all done at this place. There are two weekly papers, one +the <i>Mining Record</i>, an eight-page, bright, newsy paper which +deserves a liberal support.</p> +<p>One of the most novel and grotesque features of the entire trip +was a dance given by the Indians at</p> +<h4>A "POTLATCH,"</h4> +<p>a term applied to any assemblage of good cheer, although in its +primary sense it means a gift. A potlatch is given at the outset, +or during the progress of some important event, such as the +building of a new house, confirming of a sub-chief, or celebrating +any good fortune, either of peace or war. In this instance, a +sub-chief was building a new house, and the frame work was inclosed +in rough boards with no floor laid. There is never but one entrance +to an Indian hut. This is in front, and elevated several feet from +the ground, so that you must go down from the door-sill inside as +well as out. No windows were yet in the building, and it was really +in a crude state. These grand festivities last five days, and this +was the second day of merry-making.</p> +<p>There are two tribes at Juneau, located at each extreme of the +town. The water was black with canoes coming to the feast and +dance, bringing gifts to the tyhee, who, in return, gives them +gifts according to their wealth, and a feast of boiled rice and +raisins and dog-meat. The richest men of the tribe dressed, in the +rear of the building, in the wildest and most fantastic garbs, some +in skins of wild animals. There was a full panoply of blankets, +feathers, guns, swords, knives, and, as a last resort, an old broom +was covered with a scarlet case. Jingling pendant horns added to +their usual order, and the savage faces were painted with red and +black in hideous lines. Anything their minds could shape was rigged +for a head-dress, and finally, when all was ready, they ran with +fiendish yells toward the beach, some twenty yards, and there +behind a canvas facing the water they began their strange +dance.</p> +<p>Only one squaw was with them, and she was the wife of the tyhee +(chief) giving the feast. The medicine man had a large bird with +white breast, called the loon. While dancing he picked the white +feathers and scattered them on the heads of the others. The other +squaws were sitting on the ground in long rows in front of the +canoes reaching to the water's edge, about 200 feet below.</p> +<p>Their music was a wild shout or croon by all the tribe, and the +dancing is a movement in any irregular way, or a swaying motion +given to the time given by the voices, and they only advanced a few +inches in an hour's time.</p> +<p>The tribe approaching in canoes had their representative men +dressed in the same styles, only gayer, if possible. When the +canoes glided onto the beach, four abreast, it was the signal to +drop the canvas hiding the host and party, and advance a little +distance to meet them. Then they broke ranks and made way for the +visitors to approach the house with their gifts of blankets or +other valuables for the tyhee. Most of the Indians convert their +riches into blankets. These nations, seen by the tourist in an +ordinary trip to Alaska, seem very much the same in all points +visited. None of them are poor, all have some money, and many +have</p> +<h4>WEALTH COUNTED BY THOUSANDS.</h4> +<p>To be sure, some of them are in a measure Christianized, but the +odors arising from the homes of the best of them are such as a +civilized nose never scented before. Rancid grease, dried fish, +pelts, decaying animals, and human filth made the strongest perfume +known to the commercial or social world.</p> +<p>The squaws, if they were in mourning or in love, would have +their faces painted black with oil and tar. Then again, a great +many wear a wooden or ivory pin thrust through the lip just below +the fleshy part. It is worn for ornament, the same as ear-rings or +nose-rings, and is called a labret. The missionary work done among +them is a commendable one, but it seems a hopeless task. Their +houses are always built with one object in view, to be able to tie +the canoe to the front door. A long row of huts just above +high-tide line can always be safely called a rancherie in that +country. Their food is brought by the tide to their very doors, and +the timbered mountains abound in wild game, and offer ample fuel +for the cutting.</p> +<center><img src="Images/15Granville.jpg" alt= +"GRANVILLE CHANNEL, ALASKA" height="256" width="466" align= +"top"></center> +<p>Chilcot, or Pyramid Harbor, is about twelve hours run from +Juneau, and it is here the famous Chilcot blanket is made from the +goat's wool, woven by hand, and dyed by native dyes, and worked +from grotesque patterns. Here, also, are two of the largest salmon +canneries in Alaska, and here, indeed, were we in the</p> +<h4>LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.</h4> +<p>The hours passed quickly by as the supposed night wore away. At +midnight the twilight was so bright that one could read a newspaper +easily. Then the moon shone in the clear sky with all regal +splendor until 3.30 in the morning, when old Sol again put in his +claims for admission. He lifted his golden head above the snowy +peaks, and spirited away the uncertain light of unfolding dawn by +drawing the curtains of the purpling east, and sending floods of +radiance upon the entire world. It was a sight never to be +forgotten, if seen but once in a lifetime.</p> +<p>Onward once again when the tide was in, and our next awakening +was on the grand glacier fields. The greatest sight of the entire +trip, or of any other in America, now opened out before many eager +eyes. For several days, icebergs had been seen sailing along on the +smooth surface from the great glaciers, and speeding to the +southern seas like phantom ships. As the ship neared the bay, these +huge bergs increased in size and number, with such grotesque and +weird shapes, that the mind is absorbed in shaping turrets, ghosts, +goblins, and the like, each moment developing more and more of +things unearthly, until the heart and eyes seem bursting with the +strain, when suddenly a great roar, like the shock of an explosion +of giant powder, turns the eyes to the parent glacier to see the +birth of these unnatural forms. They break from the icy wall with a +stupendous crash, and fall into the water with such force as to +send our great ship careening on her side when the swell from the +disturbed waters strikes her.</p> +<p>The Muir glacier is the one that occupies the most attention, as +it is the most accessible to tourists. It rises to a perpendicular +height of 350 feet, and stretches across the entire head of the +Glacier Bay, which is estimated from three to five miles in width. +The Muir and Davidson glaciers are two arms of that great Ice field +extending more than 400 miles in length, covering more area</p> +<h4>THAN ALL SWITZERLAND,</h4> +<p>and any one of the fifteen subdivisions of the glacial stream is +as large as the Great Rhone glacier.</p> +<p>Underlying this great ice field is that glacial river which +bears these mountains of ice on its bosom to the ocean. With a roar +like distant artillery, or an approaching thunder-storm, the +advancing walls of this great monster split and fall into the +watery deep, which has been sounded to a depth of some 800 feet +without finding anchor.</p> +<p>The glacial wall is a rugged, uneven mass, with clefts and +crevices, towering pinnacles and domes, higher than Bunker Hill +monument, cutting the air at all angles, and with a stupendous +crash sections break off from any portion without warning and sink +far out of sight. Scarcely two minutes elapse without a portion +falling from some quarter. The marble whiteness of the face is +relieved by lines of intense blue, a characteristic peculiar to the +small portions as well as the great.</p> +<p>Going ashore in little rowboats, the vast area along the sandy +beach was first explored, and it was, indeed, like a fairy land. +There were acres of grottoes, whose honey-combed walls were most +delicately carved by the soft winds and the sunlight reflections +around and in the arches of ice, such as are never seen except in +water, ice, and sky.</p> +<h4>MOUNTAINS OF ICE,</h4> +<p>remnants of glaciers, along the beach, stood poised on one +point, or perchance on two points, and arched between. These +icebergs were dotted with stones imbedded; great bowls were melted +out and filled with water, and little cups made of ice would afford +you a drink of fresh water on the shore of this salt sea.</p> +<p>At five o'clock in the morning, with the sun kissing the cold +majestic glacier into a glad awakening from its icy sleep, the +ascent was begun. Too eager to be among the first to see the top, +many started without breakfast, while others chose the wiser part, +and waited to be physically fortified.</p> +<p>The ascent is not so difficult as it is dangerous. There is no +trail and no guide, and many a step had to be retraced to get +across or around some bottomless fissure. For some distance the +ground seemed quite solid. Soon it was discovered that there was +but a thin covering of dirt on the solid ice below; but anon in +striking the ground with the end of an alpine stick it would prove +to be but an inch of ice and dirt mixed, and a dark abyss below +which we could not fathom. It is to be hoped, for the good of +future tourists, that there are not many such places, or that they +may soon be exposed so they can be avoided. Reaching the top after +a tedious and slippery climb, there was a long view of icy billows, +as if the sea had suddenly congealed amid a wild tempestuous storm. +Deep chasms obstructed the way on all sides, and a misstep or slip +would send one down the blue steps where no friendly rope could +rescue, and only the rushing water could be heard. To view the +solid phalanxes of icy floes, as they fill the mountain fastnesses +and imperceptibly march through the ravines and force their way to +the sea, fills one with awe indescribable. The knowledge that the +ice is moving from beneath one's feet thrills one with a curious +sensation hard to portray.</p> +<p>Below, it seems like the constant wooing of the sea that wins +the offering from this wealth of purity, instead of the voluntary +act of this giant of the Arctic zone.</p> +<p>For twenty-four hours the awful grandeur of these scenes was +gloried in, when Captain Hunter gave the order to draw the anchor +and steam away. The whistles call the passengers back to the +steamer, where they were soon comparing specimens, viewing +instantaneous photographs, hiding bedraggled clothing, casting away +tattered mufflers, and telling of hair-breadth escapes from peril +and death. Many a tired head sought an early pillow, and floated +away in dreams of ghoulish icebergs, until the call for breakfast +disclosed to opening eyes that the boat was anchored in the</p> +<h4>BEAUTIFUL HARBOR OF SITKA.</h4> +<p>The steamer's whistle is the signal for a holiday in all Alaska +ports, and Sitka is no exception to the rule. Six o'clock in the +morning, but the sleepy town had awakened to the fact of our +arrival, and the inhabitants were out in force to greet friends or +sell their canoes.</p> +<p>There are some 1,500 people living in Sitka, including all +races. The harbor is the most beautiful a fertile brain can +imagine. Exquisitely moulded islands are scattered about in the +most enchanting way, all shapes and sizes, with now and then a +little garden patch, and ever verdant with native woods and grasses +and charming rockeries. As far out as the eye can reach the +beautiful isles break the cold sea into bewitching inlets and lure +the mariner to shelter from evil outside waves.</p> +<center><img src="Images/14Sitka.jpg" alt="SITKA HARBOR, ALASKA" +height="265" width="456"></center> +<p>The village nestles between giant mountains on a lowland curve +surrounded by verdure too dense to be penetrated with the eye, and +too far to try to walk—which is a good excuse for tired feet. +The first prominent feature to meet the eye on land is a large +square house, two stories high, located on a rocky eminence near +the shore, and overlooking the entire town and harbor. Once it was +a model dwelling of much pretension, with its spacious apartments, +hard-wood six-inch plank floors, elaborately-carved decorations, +stained-glass windows, and its amusement and refreshment halls. All +betoken the former elegance of the Russian governor's home, which +was supported with such pride and magnificence as will never be +seen there again. The walls are crumbling, the windows broken, and +the old oaken stairways will soon be sinking to earth again, and +its only life will be on the page of history.</p> +<p>The mission-school hospital, chapel, and architectural buildings +occupied much of the tourists' time, and some were deeply +interested. There are eighteen missionaries in Sitka, under the +Presbyterian jurisdiction, trying to educate and Christianize the +Indians. They are doing a noble work, but it does seem a hopeless +task when one goes among the Indian homes, sees the filth, smells +the vile odors, and studies the native habits.</p> +<p>These Indians, like the other tribes, are not poor, but all have +more or less money.</p> +<h4>MANY ARE RICH,</h4> +<p>having more than $20,000 in good hard cash, yet the squalor in +which they live would indicate the direst poverty.</p> +<p>The stroll to Indian river, from which the town gets its water +supply, is bewitching. The walk is made about six feet through an +evergreen forest, the trees arching overhead, for a distance of two +miles, and is close to the bay, and following the curve in a most +picturesque circle. The water is carried in buckets loaded on carts +and wheeled by hand, for horses are almost unknown in Alaska. There +are probably not more than half a dozen horses and mules in all +Alaska—not so much because of the expense of transportation +and board, as lack of roads and the long, dark days and months of +winter, when people do not go out but very little. All the packing +is done in all sections of Alaska by natives carrying the packs and +supplies on their backs.</p> +<p>Sitka's most interesting object is the old Greek church, located +in the middle of the town, and also in the middle of the street. +Its form is that of a Greek cross, with a copper-covered dome, +surmounted by a chime-bell tower. The inside glitters with gold and +rare paintings, gold embroidered altar cloths and robes; quaint +candelabra of solid silver are suspended in many nooks, and an air +of sacred quiet pervades the whole building. There were no seats, +for the Russians remain standing during the worship. Service is +held every Sabbath by a Russian priest in his native language, and +the church is still supported by the Russian Government. Indeed, +Russia does more for the advancement of religion than does our own +Government for Alaska.</p> +<p>The walk through the Indian ranch was but a repetition of the +other towns, only that they were wealthier and uglier, if possible, +than the other tribes. The Hydahs are very powerfully built, tall, +large boned, and stout.</p> +<p>Two days were spent in visiting and trafficking with these +people. Then the anchor came up, and soon a silver trail like a +huge sea serpent moved among the green isles, and followed us once +more—now on the homeward sail.</p> +<p>But one new place of importance was made on the home trip, and +that was at</p> +<h4>KILLISNOO.</h4> +<p>When the steamer arrived, the evening after leaving Sitka, the +city policeman met us at the wharf and invited us to visit his hut. +Of course, he was a native, who expected to sell some curios. Over +his door was the following:</p> +<blockquote> +<p>"By the Governor's commission,<br> + And the company's permission,<br> + I am made the grand tyhee<br> + Of this entire illahee.</p> +<p>"Prominent in song and story,<br> + I've attained the top of glory.<br> + As Saginaw I am known to fame,<br> + Jake is but my common name."</p></blockquote> +<p>The time when he attained his fame and glory must have been when +he and his wife were both drunk one night, and he put the handcuffs +on his wife and could not get them off, and she had to go to Sitka +to be released. He appears in at least a dozen different suits +while the steamer is in port, and stands ready to be photographed +every time.</p> +<p>Killisnoo used to be a point where 100,000 barrels of herring +oil were put up annually. The industry is now increasing +again.</p></blockquote> +<center><img src="Images/16Devil.jpg" alt="DEVIL'S THUMB" + width="522" height="285"></center> +<blockquote> +<h4>NATURAL WEALTH.</h4> +<p>And this reminds me that I am almost neglecting a reference to +Alaska's vast resources in forests, metals, furs, and fish. There +are 300,000,000 of acres densely wooded with spruce, red and yellow +cedar, Oregon pine, hemlock, fir, and other useful varieties of +timber. Canoes are made from single trees, sixty feet long, with +eight-feet beams.</p> +<p>Gold, silver, lead, iron, coal, and copper are encountered in +various localities. Though but little prospected or developed, +Alaska is now yielding gold at the rate of about $2,000,000 per +year. There is a respectable area of island and mainland country +well adapted to stock-raising, and the production of many cereals +and vegetables. The climate of much of the coast country is milder +than that of Colorado, and stock can feed on the pastures the year +round.</p> +<p>But, if Alaska had no mines, forests, or agriculture, its seal +and salmon fisheries would remain alone an immense commercial +property. The salmon are found in almost any part of these northern +waters where fresh water comes in, as they always seek those +streams in the spawning season. There are different varieties that +come at stated periods and are caught in fabulous numbers, +sometimes running solid ten feet deep, and often retarding steamers +when a school of them is overtaken. At Idaho Inlet Mr. Van Gasken +brought up a seine for the Ancon tourists containing 350 salmon for +packing. At nearly every port the steamer landed there was either +one or more canning or salt-packing establishments for salmon. Of +these, 11,500,000 pounds were marketed last year.</p> +<p>Besides the salmon there is the halibut, black and white cod, +rock cod, herring, sturgeon, and many other fish, while the waters +are whipped by porpoises and whales in large numbers all along the +way. Governor Swineford estimates the products of the Alaska +fisheries last year at $3,000,000.</p> +<h4>THE SEAL FISHERIES</h4> +<p>are still 1,800 miles west of Sitka. St. Paul and St. George +Islands are the best breeding places of the seals, sea lions, sea +otter, and walrus. These islands are in a continuous fog in summer, +and are swept by icy blasts in winter. There are many interesting +facts connected with these islands and the habits of these phocine +kindred, but space is limited. Suffice that 100,000 seals are +killed each year for commercial purposes. Over 1,000,000 seal pups +are born every year, and when they leave for winter quarters they +go in families and not altogether. An average seal is about six +feet long, but some are found eight feet long and weigh from 400 to +800 pounds. The work of catching is all done between the middle of +June and the first of August. The fur company are supposed to pay +our Government $2 for each pelt. These hides are at once shipped to +London to be dyed and made ready to be put on the market in the +United States.</p> +<p>In fact, Alaska seems full to overflowing with offerings to +seekers of fortune or pleasure. Its coast climate is mild, with no +extreme heat, because of the snow-clad peaks which temper the humid +air, and never extreme cold, because of the Japan current that +bathes its mossy slopes and destroys the frigid wave before it does +its work.</p> +<p>Three thousand miles along this inland sea has revealed scenes +of matchless grandeur—majestic mountains (think of +snow-crowned St. Elias, rising 19,500 feet from the ocean's edge), +the mightiest glaciers, world's of inimitable, indescribable +splendor. It is a trip of a lifetime. There is none other like it, +and our party unanimously resolves that the tourist who fails to +take it misses very much.</p></blockquote> +<p> </p> +<hr size="4" width="50%" align="center"> +<center> +<h4><i>Fifth Tour</i>—</h4></center> +<p>From Portland to San Francisco by steamer is one of the most +enjoyable trips offered the tourist in point of safety and comfort, +and the service is exceptionally fine.</p> +<p>The steamers "Oregon," "Columbia," and "State of California" are +powerful iron steamers, built expressly for tourist travel between +Portland and San Francisco. The traveler will find this fifty-hour +ocean voyage thoroughly enjoyable; the sea is uniformly smooth, no +greater motion than the long swell of the Pacific, and the boats +are models of neatness and comfort. It affords a grand opportunity +to run down the California coast, always in sight of land, and +derive the invigorating exhilaration of an ocean trip without any +of its discomforts. Among the many points of interest to be seen +are the picturesque Columbia River Bar, the beautiful Ocean Beach +at Clatsop, the towering heights of Cape Hancock, the lonely +Mid-Ocean Lighthouse at Tillamook Rock, the historical Rogue River +Reef, Cape Mendocino, Humboldt Bay, Point Arena, and last, but not +least, the world-renowned Golden Gate of San Francisco.</p> +<center><img src="Images/17Moonlight.jpg" alt= +"MOONLIGHT ON THE OLD BLOCK HOUSE" height="258" width="454" + align="top"></center> +<p>The steamships of this company are all new, modern-designed iron +vessels, supplied with steam steering apparatus, electric light and +bells, and all improved nautical appliances. The state-rooms, +cabins, salons, etc., are elaborately furnished throughout, the +whole presenting an unrivaled scene of luxurious ocean life.</p> +<p>The advantages of this charming ocean trip to the tourist are +most obvious; there is the healthful air of the grand old Pacific +Ocean, complete freedom from dust, heat, cinders, and all the +discomforts which one meets in midsummer railway travel.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr align="center" noshade size="2" width="70%"> +<hr align="center" noshade size="2" width="90%"> +<p> </p> +<center> +<h3>STANDARD PUBLICATIONS<br> +BY THE PASSENGER DEPARTMENT<br> +OF THE UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY.</h3></center> +<p>The Passenger Department of the Union Pacific Railway will take +pleasure in forwarding to any address, free, of charge, any of the +following publications, provided that with the application is +enclosed the amount of postage specified below for each +publication. All of these books and pamphlets are fresh from the +press, many of them handsomely illustrated, and accurate as regards +the region of country described. They will be found entertaining +and instructive, and invaluable as guides to and authority on the +fertile tracts and landscape wonders of the great empire of the +West. There is information for the tourist, pleasure and health +seeker, the investor, the settler, the sportsman, the artist, and +the invalid.</p> +<p><b>The Western Resort Book</b>. Send 6 cents for postage.</p> +<p>This is a finely illustrated book describing the vast Union +Pacific system. Every health resort, mountain retreat, watering +place, hunter's paradise, etc., etc., is depicted. This book gives +a full and complete detail of all tours over the line, starting +from Sioux City, Council Bluffs, Omaha, St. Joseph, Leavenworth, or +Kansas City, and contains a complete itinerary of the journey from +either of these points to the Pacific Coast.</p> +<p><b>Sights and Scenes.</b> Send 2 cents postage for each +pamphlet.</p> +<p>There are five pamphlets in this set, pocket folder size, +illustrated, and are descriptive of tours to particular points. The +set comprises "Sights and Scenes in Colorado;" Utah; Idaho and +Montana; California; Oregon, Washington, and Alaska. Each pamphlet, +deals minutely with every resort of pleasure or health within its +assigned limit, and will be found bright and interesting reading +for tourists.</p> +<p><b>Facts and Figures.</b> Send 2 cents postage for each +pamphlet.</p> +<p>This is a set of three pamphlets, containing facts and figures +relative to Kansas, Nebraska, and Colorado respectively. They are +more particularly meant for intending settlers in these fertile +States and will be found accurate in every particular; there is a +description of all important towns.</p> +<p><b>Vest Pocket Memorandum Book.</b> Send 2 cents for +postage.</p> +<p>A handy, neatly gotten-up little memorandum book, very useful +for the farmer, business man, traveler, and tourist.</p> +<p><b>Calendar, 1890.</b> Send 6 cents for postage.</p> +<p>An elegant Calendar for the year 1890, suitable for the office +and counting room.</p> +<p><b>Comprehensive Pamphlets.</b> Send 6 cents postage for each +pamphlet.</p> +<p>A set of pamphlets on Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, Idaho, +Oregon, and Washington. These books treat, of the resources, +climate, acreage, minerals, grasses, soil, and products of these +various empires on an extended scale, entering very fully upon an +exhaustive treatise of the capabilities and promise of the places +described. They have been very carefully compiled, and the +information collated from Official Reports, actual settlers, and +residents of the different States and Territories.</p> +<p><b>Theatrical Diary.</b> Send 10 cents for postage.</p> +<p>This is a Theatrical Diary for 1890-91, bound in Turkey Morocco, +gilt tops, and contains a, list of 255 theatres and opera houses +reached by the Union Pacific system, seating capacity, size of +stage, terms, newspapers in each town, etc., etc. This Diary is +intended only for the theatrical profession.</p> +<p><b>Commercial Salesman's Expense Book.</b> Send 2 cents for +postage.</p> +<p>A neat vest pocket memorandum book for 1890—dates, cash +accounts, etc., etc.</p> +<p><b>Outdoor Sports and Pastimes.</b> Send 2 cents for +postage.</p> +<p>A carefully compiled pamphlet of some thirty pages, giving the +complete rules of this year, for Lawn Tennis, Base Ball, Croquet, +Racquet, Cricket, Quoits, La Crosse, Polo, Curling, Foot Ball, +etc., etc. There are also diagrams of a Lawn Tennis Court and Base +Ball diamond. This pamphlet will be found especially valuable to +lovers of these games.</p> +<p><b>Map of the United States.</b> Send 25 cents for postage.</p> +<p>A large wall map of the United States, complete in every +particular, and compiled from the latest surveys; just published; +size, 46 x 66 inches; railways, counties, roads, etc., etc.</p> +<p><b>Stream, Sound and Sea.</b> Send 2 cents for postage.</p> +<p>A neat, illustrated pamphlet descriptive of a trip from The +Dalles of the Columbia to Portland, Ore., Astoria, Clatsop Beach; +through the strait of Juan de Fuca and the waters of the Puget +Sound, and up the coast to Alaska. A handsome pamphlet containing +valuable information for the tourist.</p> +<p><b>Wonderful Story.</b> Send 2 cents for postage.</p> +<p>The romance of railway building. The wonderful story of the +early surveys and the building of the Union Pacific. A paper by +General G.M. Dodge, read before the Society of the Army of the +Tennessee, September, 1888. General Sherman pronounces this +document fascinatingly interesting and, of great historical value, +and vouches for its accuracy.</p> +<p><b>Gun Club Rules and Revised Game Laws.</b> Send 2 cents for +postage.</p> +<p>This valuable publication is a digest of the laws relating to +game in all the Western States and Territories. It also contains +the various gun club rules, together with a guide to all Western +localities where game of whatsoever description may be found. Every +sportsman should have one.</p> +<p><b>"The Oldest Inhabitant."</b> Send 10 cents for postage.</p> +<p>This is a buffalo head in Sepia, a very artistic study from +life. It is characterized by strong drawing and wonderful fidelity. +A very handsome acquisition for parlor or library.</p> +<p><b>Crofutt's Overland Guide, No. 1.</b> Send $1.00.</p> +<p>This book has just been issued. It graphically describes every +point, giving its history, population, business resources, etc., +etc., on the line of the Union Pacific Hallway, between the +Missouri River and the Pacific Coast, and the tourist should not +start West without a copy in his possession. It furnishes in one +volume a complete guide to the country traversed by the Union +Pacific system, and can not fail to be of great assistance to the +tourist in selecting his route, and obtaining complete information +about the points to be visited.</p> +<p><b>A Glimpse of Great Salt Lake.</b> Send 4 cents for +postage.</p> +<p>This is a charming description of a yachting cruise on the +mysterious Inland sea, beautifully illustrated with original +sketches by the well-known artist, Mr. Alfred Lambourne, of Salt +Lake City. This startling phenomena of sea and cloud and light and +color are finely portrayed. This book touches a new region, a +voyage on Great Salt Lake never before having been described and +pictured.</p> +<p><b>General Folder</b>. No postage required.</p> +<p>A carefully revised General Folder is issued regularly every +month. This publication gives condensed through time tables; +through car service; a first-class map of the United States, west +of Chicago and St. Louis; important baggage and ticket regulations +of the Union Pacific Railway, thus making a valuable compendium for +the traveler and for ticket agent in selling through tickets over +the Union Pacific Railway.</p> +<p><b>The Pathfinder</b>. No postage required.</p> +<p>A book of some fifty pages devoted to local time cards; +containing a complete list of stations with the altitude of each; +also connections with western stage lines and ocean steamships; +through car service; baggage and Pullman Sleeping Car rates and the +principal ticket regulations, which will prove of great value as a +ready reference for ticket agents to give passengers information +about the local branches of the Union Pacific Railway.</p> +<p><b>Alaska Folder</b>. No postage required.</p> +<p>This Folder contains a brief outline of the trip to Alaska, and +also a correct map of the Northwest Pacific Coast, from Portland to +Sitka, Alaska, showing the route of vessels to and from this new +and almost unknown country.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr align="center" noshade size="2" width="40%"> +<p> </p> +<center><img src="Images/18Map.jpg" alt= +"Tourist Map of the Union Pacific and Connecting Lines" + height="279" width="570"></center> +<br> +<br> +<hr> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA; SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST.***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 10751-h.txt or 10751-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/7/5/10751">https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/7/5/10751</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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L. Lomax + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + + + + +Title: Oregon, Washington and Alaska; Sights and Scenes for the Tourist + +Author: E. L. Lomax + +Release Date: January 19, 2004 [eBook #10751] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: US-ASCII + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA; +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST.*** + + +E-text prepared by P. A. Peters, Beth Trapaga, and the Project Gutenberg +Online Distributed Proofreading Team + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 10751-h.htm or 10751-h.zip: + (http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/1/0/7/5/10751/10751-h/10751-h.htm) + or + (http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/1/0/7/5/10751/10751-h.zip) + + + + + +OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA. + +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST. + +By E.L. LOMAX, General Passenger Agent, +Union Pacific System. +Omaha, Neb. + +1890 + + + + + +[Illustration: Oregon, Washington and Alaska. Sights and Scenes for the +Tourist.] + +[Illustration: Union Pacific Overland. +Sights and Scenes in Oregon, Washington and Alaska for Tourists. +Compliments of the Passenger Department, Union Pacific System, Omaha, +Neb.] + + + + + +LIST OF AGENTS. + +ALBANY, N.Y.--23 Maiden Lane--J.D. TENBROECK. Trav. Pass. Agt. + +BOSTON, MASS.--290 Washington St.--W.S. CONDELL, New England Freight +and Passenger Agent. + J.S. SMITH, Traveling Passenger Agent. + E.M. NEWBEGIN, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. + A.P. MASSEY, Passenger and Freight Solicitor. + +BUFFALO, N.Y.--40-1/2 Exchanges St.--S.A. HUTCHISON, Trav. Pass. Agt. + +BUTTE, MONT.--Corner Main and Broadway--General Agt. + +CHEYENNE, WYO.--C.W. SWEET, Freight and Ticket Agent. + +CHICAGO, ILL.--191 South Clark St.--W.H. KNIGHT, Gen'l Agt. P. and F. +Dep'ts. + T.W. YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent. + W.T. HOLLY, City Passenger Agent. + ALFRED MORTESSEN & CO., European Immigration Agts., 140 Kinzie St. + +CINCINNATI, OHIO--56 West 4th St.--J.D. WELSH, Gen'l Agt. P. and F. +Dep'ts. + H.C. SMITH, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. + +CLEVELAND, OHIO--Kennard House.--A.G. SHEARMAN, T. F. and P. Agt. + +COLORADO SPRINGS, COLO.--E.D. BAXTER, Gen'l Agt D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +COLUMBUS, OHIO--N.W. Cor. Gay and High Sts.--T.C. HIRST, Trav. Pass. Agt. + +COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA--506 First Ave.--A.J. MANDERSON, General Agt. + R.W. CHAMBERLAIN, Passenger Agent, Transfer Depot. + J.W. MAYNARD, Ticket Agent, Transfer Depot. + A.T. ELWELL, City Ticket Agent, 507 Broadway. + +DALLAS, TEX.--H.M. DE HART, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +DENVER, COLO.--1703 Larimer St.--F.I. SMITH, Gen'l Agt. D., T. & Ft. W. +R.R. + GEO. ADY, General Passenger Agent, Colo. Div. and D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + F.B. SEMPLE, Ass't Gen'l Pass. Agt, Colo. Div. and D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + C.H. TITUS, Traveling Passenger Agent. + R.P.M. KIMBALL, City Ticket Agent. + +DES MOINES, IOWA--218 4th St.--E.M. FORD, Traveling Passenger Agent. + +DETROIT, MICH.--62 Griswold St.--D.W. JOHNSTON, Michigan Pass. Agt. + +HELENA, MONT.--2 North Main St.--A.E. VEAZIE, City Ticket Agent. + +INDIANAPOLIS, IND.--Room 3 Jackson Place.--H.O. WEBB, Traveling Passenger +Agent. + +KANSAS CITY, MO.--9th and Broadway.--J.B. FRAWLEY, Div. Pass. Agt. + J.B. REESE, Traveling Passenger Agent. + F.S. HAACKE, Traveling Passenger Agent. + H.K. PROUDFIT, City Passenger Agent. + T.A. SHAW, Ticket Agent, 1038 Union Ave. + A.W. MILLSPAUGH, Ticket Agent, Union Depot. + C.A. WHITTIER, City Ticket Agent, 528 Main St. + +LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND--23 Water St.--S. STAMFORD PARRY, General European +Agent. + +LONDON, ENGLAND--THOS. COOK & SONS, European Passenger Agents, Ludgate +Circus. + +LOS ANGELES, CAL.--51 North Spring St.--JOHN CLARK, Agt. Pass. Dep't. + A.J. HECHTMAN, Agent Freight Department. + +LOUISVILLE, KY.--346 West Main St.--N. HAIGHT, Traveling Pass. Agent. + +NEW ORLEANS, LA.--45 St. Charles St.--C.B. SMITH, General Agent D., T. +& Ft. W. R.R. + D.M. REA, Traveling Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +NEW YORK CITY--287 Broadway--R. TENBROECK, General Eastern Agent. + J.F. WILEY, Passenger Agent. + F.R. SEAMAN, City Passenger Agent. + +OGDEN, UTAH--Union Depot--C.A. HENRY, Ticket Agent. + C.E. INGALLS, Traveling Passenger Agent. + +OLYMPIA, WASH.--2d St. Wharf.--J.C. PERCIVAL, Ticket Agent. + +OMAHA, NEB.--9th and Farnam Sts.--M.J. GREEVY, Trav. Pass. Agt. + HARRY P. DEUEL, City Passenger and Ticket Agent, 1302 Farnam St. + J.K. CHAMBERS, Depot Ticket Agent, 10th and Marey Sts. + +PHILADELPHIA, PA.--133 South 4th St.--D.E. BURLEY, Trav. Pass. Agt. + L.T. FOWLER, Traveling Freight Agent. + +PITTSBURG, PA.--400 Wood St.--H.E. PASSAVANT, T. F. and P. A. + THOS. S. SPEAR, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. + +PORTLAND, ORE.--Cor. 3d and Oak Sts.--T.W. LEE, Gen'l Passenger Agent, +Pacific Div. + A.L. MAXWELL, General Agent Traffic Department. + HARRY YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent. + GEO. S. TAYLOR, City Ticket Agent. Cor. 1st and Oak Sts. + +PORT TOWNSEND, WASH.--Union Wharf--H.L. TIBBALS, Jr., Ticket Agt. + +PUEBLO, COLO.--E.R. HARDING, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +ST. JOSEPH, MO.--F.L. LYNDE, General Pass. Agent, St. J. & G.I. R.R. Div. + W.P. ROBINSON, Jr., General Freight Agent, St. J. & G.I. R.R. Div. + +ST. LOUIS, MO.--213 North 4th St.--J.F. AGLAR, Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep't. + E.R. TUTTLE, Traveling Passenger Agent. + E.S. WILLIAMS, City Passenger Agent. + C.C. KNIGHT, Freight Contracting Agent. + +SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH--201 Main St.--J.V. PARKER, Assistant General +Freight and Passenger Agent, Mountain Div. + +SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.--1 Montgomery St.--W.H. HURLBURT, Assistant General +Passenger Agent, Mo. Riv. Div. + S.W. ECCLES, General Agent Freight Department. + C.L. HANNA, Traveling Passenger Agent. + H. FRODSHAM, Passenger Agent. + J.F. FUGAZI, Italian Emigrant Agent, 5 Montgomery Ave. + +SEATTLE, WASH.--A.C. MARTIN, City Ticket Agent. + O.F. BRIGGS, Ticket Agent, Dock. + +SIOUX CITY, IOWA--513 Fourth St.--D.M. COLLINS, General Agent. + GEO. E. ABBOT, City Ticket Agent. + +SPOKANE FALLS, WASH.--108 Riverside Ave.--PERRY GRIFFIN, Passenger and +Ticket Agent. + +TACOMA, WASH.--901 Pacific Ave.--E.E. ELLIS, Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep'ts. + +TRINIDAD, COLO.--G.M. JACOBS, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +VICTORIA, B.C.--100 Government St.--G.A. COOPER, Ticket Agent. + +WHATCOM, WASH.--J.W. ALTON, Gen'l Agent Freight and Pass. Dep'ts. + + +J.A.S. REED, General Traveling Agent, 191 South Clark St., CHICAGO. +ALBERT WOODCOCK, General Land Commissioner, OMAHA, NEB. + +E.L. LOMAX, General Passenger Agent, ) OMAHA, NEB. JNO. W. +SCOTT, Ass't General Passenger Agent, ) + + * * * * * + +PULLMAN'S PALACE CAR COMPANY + +Now operates this class of service on the Union Pacific and connecting +lines. + + Double Drawing +PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES BETWEEN Berths Room + +New York and Chicago $ 5.00 $ 18.00 +New York and St. Louis 6.00 22.00 +Boston and Chicago 5.50 20.00 +Chicago and Omaha or Kansas City 2.50 9.00 +Chicago and Denver 6.00 21.00 +St. Louis and Kansas City 2.00 7.00 +St. Louis and Omaha 2.50 9.00 +Kansas City and Cheyenne 4.50 15.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Denver 3.50 12.00 +Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne 4.00 14.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and + Salt Lake City 8.00 28.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Ogden 8.00 28.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Butte 8.50 32.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Portland 13.00 50.00 +C. Bluff, Omaha or K. City and San Francisco + or Los Angeles 13.00 50.00 +Cheyenne and Portland 10.00 38.00 +Denver and Leadville 2.00 ... +Denver and Portland 11.00 42.00 +Denver and Los Angeles 11.00 42.00 +Denver and San Francisco 11.00 42.00 +Pocatello and Butte 2.00 6.00 + +For a Section, Twice the Double Berth Rates will be charged. + +The Private Hotel, Dining, Hunting and Sleeping Cars of the Pullman +Company will accommodate from 12 to 18 persons, allowing a full bed +to each, and are fitted with such modern conveniences as private, +observation and smoking rooms, folding beds, reclining chairs, buffets +and kitchens. They are "_just the thing_" for tourists, theatrical +companies, sportsmen, and private parties. The Hunting Cars have special +conveniences, being provided with dog-kennels, gun-racks, fishing-tackle, +etc. These cars can be chartered at following rates per diem (the time +being reckoned from date of departure until return of same, unless +otherwise arranged with the Pullman Company): + +Less than Ten Days. + + per day. per day. +Hotel Cars $ 50.00 Private or Hunting Cars $ 35.00 +Buffet Cars 45.00 Private Cars with Buffet 30.00 +Sleeping Cars 40.00 Dining Cars 30.00 + +Ten Days or over, $5.00 per day less than above. Hotel, Buffet, or +Sleeping Cars can also be chartered for continuous trips without +lay-over between points where extra cars are furnished (cars to be +given up at destination), as follows: + +Where berth rate is $ 1.50, car rate will be $ 35.00 + " " " 2.00, " " " " 45.00 + " " " 2.50, " " " " 55.00 + +For each additional berth rate of 50 cents, car rate will be increased +$10.00. + +Above rates include service of polite and skillful attendants. The +commissariat will also be furnished if desired. Such chartered cars must +contain not less than 15 persons holding full first-class tickets, and +another full fare ticket will be required for each additional passenger +over 15. If chartered "per diem" cars are given up _en route_, chartering +party must arrange for return to original starting point free, or pay +amount of freight necessary for return thereto. Diagrams showing interior +of these cars can be had of any agent of the Company. + +PULLMAN DINING CARS + +are attached to the Council Bluffs and Denver Vestibuled Express, daily +between Council Bluffs and Denver, and to "The Limited Fast Mail," +running daily between Council Bluffs and Portland, Ore. + +MEALS. + +All trains, except those specified above (under head of Pullman Dining +Cars), stop at regular eating stations, where first-class meals are +furnished, under the direct supervision of this Company, by the Pacific +Hotel Company. Neat and tidy lunch counters are also to be found at these +stations. + +BUFFET SERVICE. + +Particular attention is called to the fine Buffet Service offered by the +Union Pacific System to its patrons. Pullman Palace Buffet Sleepers now +run on trains Nos. 1, 2, 201, and 202. + + * * * * * + +SIGHTS AND SCENES IN OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA. + +Oregon is a word derived from the Spanish, and means "wild thyme," the +early explorers finding that herb growing there in great profusion. So +far as we have any record Oregon seems to have been first visited by +white men in 1775; Captain Cook coasted down its shores in 1778. Captain +Gray, commanding the ship "Columbia," of Boston, Mass., discovered the +noble river in 1791, which he named after his ship. Astoria was founded +in 1811; immigration was in full tide in 1839; Territorial organization +was effected in 1848, and Oregon became a State on 14th February, 1859. +It has an area of 96,000 square miles, and is 350 miles long by 275 miles +wide. There are 50,000,000 acres of arable and grazing land, and +10,000,000 acres of forest in the State. + +The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates a series of +excursion tickets called "Columbia Tours," using Portland as a central +point. Stop-over privileges will be given within the limitation of the +tickets. + +First Columbia Tour: Portland to "The Dalles," by rail, and return by +river. + +Second Columbia Tour: Portland to Astoria, Ilwaco, and Clatsop Beach, and +return by river. + +Third Columbia Tour: Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma by +boat and return. + +Fourth Columbia Tour: Portland to Alaska and return. + +Fifth Columbia Tour: Portland to San Francisco by boat. + +PORTLAND + +Is a very beautiful city of 60,000 inhabitants, and situated on the +Willamette river twelve miles from its junction with the Columbia. It is +perhaps true of many of the growing cities of the West, that they do not +offer the same social advantages as the older cities of the East. But +this is principally the case as to what may be called boom cities, where +the larger part of the population is of that floating class which follows +in the line of temporary growth for the purposes of speculation, and in +no sense applies to those centers of trade whose prosperity is based on +the solid foundation of legitimate business. As the metropolis of a +vast section of country, having broad agricultural valleys filled with +improved farms, surrounded by mountains rich in mineral wealth, and +boundless forests of as fine timber as the world produces, the cause +of Portland's growth and prosperity is the trade which it has as the +center of collection and distribution of this great wealth of natural +resources, and it has attracted, not the boomer and speculator, who +find their profits in the wild excitement of the boom, but the +merchant, manufacturer, and investor, who seek the surer if slower +channels of legitimate business and investment. These have come from +the East, most of them within the last few years. They came as seeking +a better and wider field to engage in the same occupations they had +followed in their Eastern homes, and bringing with them all the love of +polite life which they had acquired there, have established here a new +society, equaling in all respects that which they left behind. Here are +as fine churches, as complete a system of schools, as fine residences, +as great a love of music and art, as can be found at any city of the +East of equal size. + +[Illustration: PORTLAND, ORE. +On the Union Pacific Ry.] + +But while Portland may justly claim to be the peer of any city of its +size in the United States in all that pertains to social life, in the +attractions of beauty of location and surroundings it stands without its +peer. The work of art is but the copy of nature. What the residents of +other cities see but in the copy, or must travel half the world over to +see in the original, the resident of Portland has at his very door. + +The city is situate on gently-sloping ground, with, on the one side, +the river, and on the other a range of hills, which, within easy +walking distance, rise to an elevation of a thousand feet above the +river, affording a most picturesque building site. From the very +streets of the thickly settled portion of the city, the Cascade +Mountains, with the snow-capped peaks of Hood, Adams, St. Helens, and +Rainier, are in plain view. As the hills to the west are ascended the +view broadens, until, from the extreme top of some of the higher +points, there is, to the east, the valley stretching away to the +Cascade Mountains, with its rivers, the Columbia and Willamette; in the +foreground Portland, in the middle distance Vancouver, and, bounding +the horizon, the Cascade Mountains, with their snow-clad peaks, and the +gorge of the Columbia in plain sight, whilst away to the north the +course of the Columbia may be followed for miles. To the west, from the +foot of the hills, the valley of the Tualatin stretches away twenty odd +miles to the Coast Range, which alone shuts out the view of the Pacific +Ocean and bounds the horizon on the west. To the glaciers of Mt. Hood +is but little more than a day's travel. The gorge of the Columbia, +which in many respects equals, and in others surpasses the far-famed +Yosemite, may be visited in the compass of a day. The Upper Willamette, +within the limits of a few hours' trip, offers beauties equaling the +Rhine, whilst thirty-six hours gives the Lower Columbia, beside which +the Rhine and Hudson sink into insignificance. In short, within a few +hours' walk of the heart of this busy city are beauties surpassing the +White Mountains or Adirondacks, and the grandeur of the Alps lies +within the limits of a day's picnicking. + +There is no better guarantee of the advantageous position of Portland +than the wealth which has accumulated here in the short period which +has elapsed since the city first sprang into existence. Theory is all +very well, but the actual proof is in the result. At the taking of the +census of 1880, Portland was the third wealthiest city in the world in +proportion to population; since that date wealth has accumulated at an +unprecedented rate, and it is probable it is to-day the wealthiest. +Among all her wealthy men, not one can be singled out who did not make +his money here, who did not come here poor to grow rich. + +Portland enjoys superb advantages as a starting-point for tourist +travel. After the traveler has enjoyed the numerous attractions of that +wealthy city, traversed its beautiful avenues, viewed a strikingly +noble landscape from "The Heights," and explored those charming +environs which extend for miles up and down the Willamette, there +remains perhaps the most invigorating and healthful trip of all--a +journey either by + +STREAM, SOUND, OR SEA. + +There must ever remain in the mind of the tourist a peculiarly +delightful recollection of a day on the majestic Columbia River, the +all too short run across that glorious sheet of water, Puget Sound, or +the fifty hours' luxurious voyage on the Pacific Ocean, from Portland +to San Francisco. + +Beginning first with the Columbia River, the traveler will find solid +comfort on any one of the boats belonging to the Union Pacific Railway +fleet. This River Division is separated into three subdivisions: the +Lower Columbia from Portland to Astoria, the Middle Columbia from +Portland to Cascade Locks, and the Upper Columbia from the Cascades +to The Dalles. + + * * * * * + +THE UPPER COLUMBIA. + +_First Tour_.--Passengers will remember that, arriving at The Dalles, +on the Union Pacific Railway, they have the option of proceeding into +Portland either by rail or river, and their ticket is available for +either route. + +[Illustration: A GLIMPSE OF MOUNT ADAMS, WASHINGTON. As seen from the +Union Pacific Ry.] + +The river trip will be found a very pleasant diversion after the long +railway ride, and a day's sail down the majestic Columbia is a +memory-picture which lasts a life-time. It is eighty-eight miles by rail +to Portland, the train skirting the river bank up to within a few miles +of the city. By river, it is forty-five miles to the Upper Cascades, then +a six-mile portage via narrow-gauge railway, then sixty miles by steamer +again to Portland. The boat leaves The Dalles at about 7 in the morning, +and reaches Portland at 6 in the evening. The accommodations on these +boats are first-class in every respect; good table, neat staterooms, and +courteous attendants. + +This tour is planned for those who may wish to start from Portland by +the Union Pacific Railway. Take the evening train from Portland to The +Dalles. Arriving at The Dalles, walk down to the boat, which lies only +a few yards down stream from the station. Sleep on board, so that you +may be ready early in the morning for the stately panorama of the +river. Another plan is to give a day to the interesting country in the +near vicinity. The Dalles proper of the Columbia begin at Celilo, +fourteen miles above this point, and are simply a succession of rapids, +until, nearing The Dalles Station, the stream for two and a half miles +narrows down between walls of basaltic rock 130 feet across. In the +flood-tides of the spring the water in this chasm has risen 126 feet. +The word "Dalles" is rather misleading. The word is French, "dalle," +and means, variously, "a plate," "a flagstone," "a slab," alluding to +the oval or square shaped stones which abound in the river bed and the +valley above. But the early French hunters and trappers called a chasm +or a defile or gorge, "dalles," meaning in their vernacular "a +trough"--and "Dalles" it has remained. There is a quaint Indian legend +connected with the spot which may interest the curious, and it runs +something on this wise, Clark's Fork and the Snake river, it will be +remembered, unite at Ainsworth to form the Columbia. It flows furiously +for a hundred miles and more westward, and when it reaches the outlying +ridges of the Cascade chain it finds an immense low surface paved with +enormous sheets of basaltic rock. But here is the legend: + +THE LEGEND OF THE DALLES. + +In the very ancient far-away times the sole and only inhabitants of the +world were fiends, and very highly uncivilized fiends at that. The +whole Northwest was then one of the centres of volcanic action. The +craters of the Cascades were fire breathers and fountains of liquid +flame. It was an extremely fiendish country, and naturally the +inhabitants fought like devils. Where the great plains of the Upper +Columbia now spread was a vast inland sea, which beat against a rampart +of hills to the east of The Dalles. And the great weapon of the fiends +in warfare was their tails, which were of prodigious size and terrible +strength. Now, the wisest, strongest, and most subtle fiend of the +entire crew was one fiend called the "Devil." He was a thoughtful +person and viewed with alarm the ever increasing tendency among his +neighbors toward fighting and general wickedness. The whole tribe met +every summer to have a tournament after their fashion, and at one of +these reunions the Devil arose and made a pacific speech. He took +occasion to enlarge on the evils of constant warfare, and suggested +that a general reconciliation take place and that they all live in +peace. The astonished fiends could not understand any such unwarlike +procedure from _him_, and with one accord, suspecting treachery, made +straight at the intended reformer, who, of course, took to his heels. +The fiends pressed him hard as he sped over the plains of The Dalles, +and as he neared the defile he struck a Titanic blow with his tail on +the pavement--and a chasm opened up through the valley, and down rushed +the waters of the inland sea. But a battalion of the fiends still +pursued him, and again he smote with his tail and more strongly, and a +vaster cleft went up and down the valley, and a more terrific torrent +swept along. The leading fiends took the leap, but many fell into the +chasm--and still the Devil was sorely pursued. He had just time to rap +once more and with all the vigor of a despairing tail. And this time he +was safe. A third crevice, twice the width of the second, split the +rocks, riving a deeper cleft in the mountain that held back the inland +sea, making a gorge through the majestic chain of the Cascades and +opening a way for the torrent oceanward. It was the crack of doom for +the fiends. Essaying the leap, they fell far short of the edge, where +the Devil lay panting. Down they fell and were swept away by the flood; +so the whole race of fiends perished from the face of the earth. But +the Devil was in sorry case. His tail was unutterably dislocated by his +last blow; so, leaping across the chasm he had made, he went home to +rear his family thoughtfully. There were no more antagonists; so, +perhaps, after all, tails were useless. Every year he brought his +children to The Dalles and told them the terrible history of his +escape. And after a time the fires of the Cascades burned away; the +inland sea was drained and its bed became a fair and habitable land, +and still the waters gushed through the narrow crevices roaring +seaward. But the Devil had one sorrow. All his children born before the +catastrophe were crabbed, unregenerate, stiff-tailed fiends. After that +event every new-born imp wore a flaccid, invertebrate, despondent +tail--the very last insignium of ignobility. So runs the legend of The +Dalles--a shining lesson to reformers. + +Leaving The Dalles in the morning, a splendid panorama begins to unfold +on this lordly stream--"Achilles of rivers," as Winthrop called it. It +is difficult to describe the charm of this trip. Residents of the East +pronounce it superior to the Hudson, and travelers assert there is +nothing like it in the Old World. It is simply delicious to those +escaped from the heat and dust of their far-off homes to embark on this +noble stream and steam smoothly down past frowning headlands and "rocks +with carven imageries," bluffs lined with pine trees, vivid green, past +islands and falls, and distant views of snowy peaks. There is no trip +like it on the coast, and for a river excursion there is not its equal +in the United States. + +THE ISLE OF THE DEAD. + +Twelve miles below "The Dalles" there is a lonely, rugged island anchored +amid stream. It is bare, save for a white monument which rises from its +rocky breast. No living thing, no vestige of verdure, or tree, or shrub, +appears. And Captain McNulty, as he stood at the wheel and steadied the +"Queen," said: + +"That monument? It's Victor Trevet's. Of course you never heard of him, +but he was a great man, all the same, here in Oregon in the old times. +Queer he was, and no mistake. Member of one of the early legislatures; +sort of a general peacemaker; everybody went to him with their troubles, +and when he said a lawsuit didn't go, it didn't, and he always stuck up +for the Indians, and always called his own kind 'dirty mean whites.' I +used to think that was put on, and maybe it was, but anyhow that's the +way he used to talk. And a hundred times he has said to me, 'John, when +I die, I want to be buried on Memaloose Isle.' That's the 'Isle of the +Dead,' which we just passed, and has been from times away back the burial +place of the Chinook Indians. It's just full of 'em. And I says to him, +'Now, Vic., it's fame your after.' 'John,' says he, 'I'll tell you: I'm +not indifferent to glory; and there's many a big gun laid away in the +cemetery that people forget in a year, and his grave's never visited +after a few turns of the wheel; but if I rest on Memaloose Isle, I'll not +be forgotten while people travel this river. And another thing: You know, +John, the dirty, mean whites stole the Indian's burial ground and built +Portland there. Everyday the papers have an account of Mr. Bigbug's +proposed palace, and how Indian bones were turned up in the excavation. I +won't be buried alongside any such dirty, mean thieves. And I'll tell you +further, John, that it may be if I am laid away among the Indians, when +the Great Day comes I can slip in kind of easy. They ain't going to have +any such a hard time as the dirty whites will have, and maybe I won't be +noticed, and can just slide in quiet along with their crowd.' + +"And I tell you," said the honest Captain, as he swung the "Queen" around +a sharp headland, and the monument and island vanished, "he has got his +wish. He don't lay among the whites, and there isn't a day in summer when +the name of Vic. Trevet ain't mentioned, either on yon train or on a boat, +just as I am telling it to you now. When he died in San Francisco five +years ago, some of his old friends had him brought back to 'The Dalles,' +and one lovely Sunday (being an off day) we buried him on Memaloose Isle, +and then we put up the monument. His earthly immortality is safe and sure, +for that stone will stand as long as the island stays. She's eight feet +square at the base, built of the native rock right on the island, then +three feet of granite, then a ten-foot column. It cost us $1,500, and +Vic. is bricked up in a vault underneath. Yes, sir, he's there for sure +till resurrection day. Queer idea? Why, blame it all, if he thought he +could get in along with the Chinooks it's all right, ain't it? Don't want +a man to lose any chances, do you?" + +[Illustration: MULTNOMAH FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +So much has been said of this mighty river that the preconceived idea +of the tourist is of a surging flood of unknown depth rushing like a +mountain torrent. The plain facts are that the Lower Columbia is rather +a placid stream, with a sluggish current, and the channel shoals up to +eight feet, then falling to twelve, fifteen and seventeen feet, and +suddenly dropping to 100 feet of water and over. In the spring months +it will rise from twenty-five to forty feet, leaving driftwood high up +among the trees on the banks. The tide ebbs and flows at Portland from +eighteen inches to three feet, according to season, and this tidal +influence is felt, in high water, as far up as the Cascades. It is +fifty miles of glorious beauty from "The Dalles" to the Cascades. Here +we leave the steamer and take a narrow-gauge railway for six miles +around the magnificent rapids. At the foot of the Cascades we board a +twin boat, fitted up with equal taste and comfort. + +THE MIDDLE COLUMBIA. + +Swinging once more down stream we pass hundreds of charming spots, sixty +miles of changeful beauty all the way to Portland; Multnomah Falls, a +filmy veil of water falling 720 feet into a basin on the hillside and +then 130 feet to the river; past the rocky walls of Cape Horn, towering +up a thousand feet; past that curious freak of nature, Rooster Rock, and +the palisades; past Fort Vancouver, where Grant and Sheridan were once +stationed, and just at sunset leaving the Columbia, which by this time +has broadened into noble dimensions, we ascend the Willamette twelve +miles to Portland. And the memory of that day's journey down the lordly +river will remain a gracious possession for years to come. + +THE LEGEND OF THE CASCADES. + +There is a quaint Indian legend concerning the Cascades to the effect +that away back in the forgotten times there was a natural bridge across +the river--the water flowing under one arch. The Great Spirit had made +this bridge very beautiful for his red children; it was firm, solid +earth, and covered with trees and grass. The two great giants who sat +always glowering at each other from far away (Mount Adams and Mount +Hood) quarreled terribly once on a time, and the sky grew black with +their smoke and the earth trembled with their roaring. And in their +rage and fury they began to throw great stones and huge mountain +boulders at one another. This great battle lasted for days, and when +the smoke and the thunderings had passed away and the sun shone +peacefully again, the people came back once more. But there was no +bridge there. Pieces of rock made small islands above the lost bridge, +but below that the river fretted and shouted and plunged over jagged +and twisted boulders for miles down the stream, throwing the spray high +in air, madly spending its strength in treacherous whirlpools and deep +seductive currents--ever after to be wrathful, complaining, dangerous. +The stoutest warrior could not live in that terrible torrent. So the +beautiful bridge was lost, destroyed in this Titan battle, but far down +in the water could be seen many of the stately trees which the Great +Spirit caused to remain there as a token of the bridge. These he turned +to stone, and they are there even unto this day. The theory of the +scientists, of course, runs counter to the pretty legend. Science +usually does destroy poetry, and they tell us that a part of the +mountain slid into the river, thus accounting for the remnant of a +forest down in the deep water. Moreover, pieces which have been +recovered show the wood to be live timber, and not petrified, as the +poetic fiction has it. The Columbia has not changed in the centuries, +but flows in the same channel here as when in the remote ages the lava, +overflowing, cut out a course and left its pathway clear for all time. +Below the lower Cascades a sea-coral formation is found, grayish in +color and not very pretty, but showing conclusively its sea formation. +Sandstone is also at times uncovered, showing that this was made by sea +deposit before the lava flowed down upon it. This Oregon country is +said to be the largest lava district in the world. The basaltic +formations in the volcanic lands of Sicily and Italy are famous for +their richness, and Oregon holds out the same promise for agriculture. +The lava formation runs from Portland to Spokane Falls, as far north as +Tacoma, and south as far as Snake river--all basaltic formation +overlaid with an incomparably rich soil. + +[Illustration: BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union +Pacific Ry.] + +The trip from Portland by rail to "The Dalles," if the tourist should +chance not to arrive in Portland by the Union Pacific line from the +east, will be found charming. It is eighty-eight miles distant. +Multnomah Falls is reached in thirty-two miles; Bonneville, forty-one +miles, at the foot of the Cascades; five miles farther is the +stupendous government lock now in process of building around the +rapids; Hood river, sixty-six miles, where tourists leave for the +ascent of Mount Hood. It is about forty miles through a picturesque +region to the base of the mountain. Then from Hood river, an ice-cold +stream, twenty-two miles into "The Dalles," where the steamer may be +taken for the return trip. In this eighty-eight miles from Portland to +"The Dalles" there are twelve miles of trestles and bridges. The +railway follows the Columbia's brink the entire distance to within a +few miles of the city. The scenery is impressively grand; the bluffs, +if they may be so called, are bold promontories attaining majestic +heights. One timber shute, where the logs come whizzing into the river +with the velocity of a cannon-ball, is 3,328 feet long, and it is +claimed a log makes the trip in twenty seconds. + +THE LOWER COLUMBIA. + +_Second Tour_.--While the Upper Columbia abounds in scenery of wild and +picturesque beauty, the tourist must by no means neglect a trip down +the lower river from Portland to Astoria and Ilwaco, and return. The +facilities now offered by the Union Pacific in its splendid fleet of +steamers render this a delightful excursion. On a clear day, one may +enjoy at the junction of the Willamette with the Columbia a very +wonderful sight--five mountain peaks are on view: St. Helens, Mt. +Jefferson, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Rainier. St. Helens, queen of +the Cascade Range, a fair and graceful cone. Exquisite mantling snows +sweep along her shoulders toward the bristling pines. Not far from her +base, the Columbia crashes through the mountains in a magnificent +chasm, and Mt. Hood, the vigorous prince of the range, rises in a keen +pyramid some 12,000 feet. Small villages and landing-places line the +shores, almost too numerous to mention. There are, of the more +important, St. Johns, St. Helens, Columbia City, Kalama, Rainier, +Westport, Cathlamet, Knappa, and Astoria at the mouth, a busy place of +6,000 people. Salmon canneries there are without number. It is about 98 +miles by the chart from Portland to Astoria. Across the bay is the +pretty town of Ilwaco. Ft. Canby and Cape Disappointment look across to +Ft. Stevens and Point Adams. From Astoria, one may drive eighteen miles +to Clatsop Beach, famous for its clams, crab, and trout, and Ben +Holliday's hotel. But the fullest enjoyment is obtained by making a +round trip, including a lay-over at Ilwaco all night, and returning to +Portland next day, and sleeping on board the boat. A railway runs from +the town to the outside beach, a mile and a half distant. There is a +drive twenty-five miles long up this long beach to Shoal Water Bay, +which is beautiful beyond description. This district is the great +supply point for oysters, heavy shipments being made as far south as +San Francisco. Sea bathing, both here and at Clatsop Beach, is very +fine. + +The boats of the Union Pacific Ry. on the Columbia leave nothing to be +desired. The "T.J. Potter," a magnificent side-wheel steamer, made her +first trip in July, 1888. She is 235 feet long, 35 feet beam, and 10 +feet hold, with a capacity of 600 passengers. The saloon and +state-rooms are fitted with every convenience, and handsomely +decorated. The "Potter" was built entirely in Portland, and the +citizens naturally take great pride in the superb vessel. In August, +1888, this steamer made the run from her berth at Portland to the +landing stage at Astoria in five hours and thirty-one minutes. Then +there are two night passenger boats from Portland down, the "R.R. +Thompson" and the "S.G. Reed," both stern-wheelers of large size, +spacious, roomy boats, well appointed in every particular. The Thompson +is 215 feet long, 38 feet beam, and 1,158 tons measurement. In addition +to these, there are two day mail passenger and freight boats; they +handle the way traffic; the larger boats above mentioned make the run +direct from Portland to Astoria without any landings. + +SOME RANDOM NOTES. + +A mistaken idea has possessed many tourists that the Puget Sound steamers +start from Portland; they leave Tacoma for all points on the Sound, and +Tacoma is about 150 miles by rail from Portland. + +One steamer sails every twelfth day from Portland to Seattle. + +One steamer per month leaves Portland for Alaska, but she touches at Port +Townsend before proceeding north. + +One steamship leaves Tacoma for Alaska during the season of 1890, about +every fifteen days, from June to September. + +The Ocean steamers sail every fourth day from Portland to San Francisco. + +There are semi-weekly boats between Portland and Corvallis, and +tri-weekly between Portland and Salem. + +On the Sound there are three boats each way, daily (except Sunday), +between Tacoma and Seattle; one boat each way, daily (except Sunday), +between Tacoma and Victoria; one boat each way, daily (except Sunday), +between Seattle and Whatcom, and one boat, daily (except Sunday), between +Whatcom and Seminahmoo. + +Only one class of tickets is sold on the River and Sound boats; on the +Ocean steamers there are two classes: cabin and steerage. The steerage +passengers on the Ocean steamers have a dining-room separate from the +first-class passengers--on the lower deck--and are given abundance of +wholesome food, tea and coffee. + +On River and Sound boats, a ticket does not include meals and berths, but +it does on the ocean voyage, or the Alaska trip. The usual price for meals +is 50 cents, and they will be found uniformly excellent. Breakfast, lunch, +and a 6 o'clock dinner are served. + +The price of berths on these boats runs from 50 cents for a single berth +to $3 per day for the bridal chamber. + +No liquors of any kind are kept on sale on any River or Sound steamer, +but a small stock of the best brands will be found on the Ocean steamers. + +State-rooms on the River and Sound steamers are provided with one double +lower and one single upper berth. + +Passengers can, if they choose, purchase the full accommodation of a +state-room. + +The steerage capacity of each of the three Ocean steamers is about 300. + +The diagram of the Ocean steamers and the night boats to Astoria can +always be found at the Union Ticket Office of the Union Pacific Railway +in Portland, corner First and Oak Streets. + +Tourists receive more than an ordinary amount of attention on these +steamers, more than is possible to pay them on a railway train. The +pursers will be found polite and obliging, always ready to point out +places of interest and render those little attentions which go so far +toward making travel pleasant. + +On River and Sound boats, the forward cabin is generally the +smoking-room, the cabin amidships is used for a "Social Hall," and the +"After Saloon" is always the ladies' cabin. + +All Union Pacific steamers in the Ocean service are heated with steam and +lighted with electricity; all have pianos and a well-selected library. The +beds on these boats are well-nigh perfect, woven-wire springs and heavy +mattresses. They are kept scrupulously clean--the company is noted for +that--and the steerage is as neat as the main saloon. + +One hundred and fifty pounds of baggage is allowed free on board both +boats and trains. + +Boats leaving terminal points at any time between 10 p.m. and 7 a.m., +arrange so that passengers can go on board after 7 p.m. and retire to +their state-rooms, thus enjoying an unbroken night's rest. + +Sea-sickness is never met with on the Sound, and very rarely on the +voyage from Portland to San Francisco. On the Pacific, the ship is never +out of sight of land, and the sea is as smooth as a mill-pond. + +The heaviest swell encountered is going over the Columbia River Bar. The +ocean is uniformly placid during the summer months. The trip, with its +freedom from the dust, rush, and roar of a train, and the inexorable +restraint one always feels on the cars, is a delightful one, and with +larger comforts and more luxurious surroundings, one enjoys the added +pleasure of courteous and thoughtful service from the various officers of +the ship. + +Taking the "Columbia" as a sample of the class of steamships in the +Union Pacific fleet, we notice that she is 334 feet long, 2,200 +horse-power, nearly 3,000 tonnage, has 65 state-rooms, and can +accommodate 200 saloon and 200 steerage passengers. Steam heat and +electric light are used. In 1880 the first plant from Edison's factory +was put on board the "Columbia," at that time a great curiosity, she +being the first ship to use the incandescent light. + +[Illustration: CRATER LAKE, ORE. +Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +CRATER LAKE. + +Crater Lake is situate in the northwestern portion of Klamath county, +Oregon, and is best reached by leaving the Southern Pacific Railroad at +Medford, which is 328 miles south of Portland, and about ninety miles +from the lake, which can be reached by a very good wagon road. The lake +is about six miles wide by seven miles long, but it is not its size +which is its beauty or its attraction. The surface of the water in the +lake is 6,251 feet above the level of the sea, and is surrounded by +cliffs or walls from 1,000 to over 2,000 feet in height, and which are +scantily covered with timber, and which offer at but one point a way of +reaching the water. The depth of the water is very great, and it is +very transparent, and of a deep blue color. Toward the southwestern +portion of the lake is Wizard Island, 845 feet high, circular in shape, +and slightly covered with timber. In the top of this island is a +depression, or crater--the Witches' Caldron--100 feet deep, and 475 +feet in diameter, which was evidently the last smoking chimney of a +once mighty volcano, and which is now covered within, as without, with +volcanic rocks. North of this island, and on the west side of the lake, +is Llao Rock, reaching to a height of 2,000 feet above the water, and +so perpendicular that a stone may be dropped from its summit to the +waters at its base, nearly one-half mile below. + +So far below the surrounding mountains is the surface of the waters in +this lake, that the mountain breezes but rarely ripple them; and looking +from the surrounding wall, the sky and cliffs are seen mirrored in the +glassy surface, and it is with difficulty the eye can distinguish the +line where the cliffs leave off and their reflected counterfeits begin. + +OREGON NATIONAL PARK. + +Townships 27, 28, 29, 30, and 31, in Ranges 5 and 6 east of the +Willamette meridian, are asked to be set apart as the Oregon National +Park. This area contains Crater Lake and its approaches. The citizens of +Oregon unanimously petitioned the President for the reservation of this +park, and a bill in conformity with the petition passed the United States +Senate in February, 1888. + + * * * * * + +_Third Tour_.--From Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma. + +WASHINGTON + +Is 340 miles long by about 240 wide. The first actual settlement by +Americans was made at Tumwater in 1845. Prior to this, the country was +known only to trappers and fur traders. Territorial government was +organized in 1853, and Washington was admitted as a State, November, +1889. The State is almost inexhaustibly rich in coal and lumber, and +has frequently been called the "Pennsylvania of the Pacific Coast." The +precious metals are also found in abundance in many districts. The +yield of wheat is prodigious. Apples, pears, apricots, plums, prunes, +peaches, cherries, grapes, and all berries flourish in the greatest +profusion. Certain it is that there is no other locality where trees +bear so early and surely as here, and where the fruit is of greater +excellence, and where there are so few drawbacks. At the Centennial +Exposition, Washington Territory fruit-tables were the wonder of +visitors and an attractive feature of the grand display. This Territory +carried off seventeen prizes in a competitive contest where +thirty-three States were represented. + +It is a pleasant journey of 150 miles through the pine forests from +Portland to Tacoma. Any one of the splendid steamers of the Union +Pacific may be taken for a trip to Victoria. Leaving Tacoma in the +morning, we sail over that noble sheet of water, Puget Sound. The hills +on either side are darkly green, the Sound widening slowly as we go. +Seattle is reached in three hours, a busy town of 35,000 people, full +of vim, push, and energy. Twenty million dollars' worth of property +went up in flame and smoke in Seattle's great fire of June 6, 1889. The +ashes were scarcely cold when her enthusiastic citizens began to build +anew, better, stronger, and more beautiful than before. A city of +brick, stone, and iron has arisen, monumental evidence of the energy, +pluck, and perseverance of the people, and of their fervent faith in +the future of Seattle. Then Port Townsend, with its beautiful harbor +and gently sloping bluffs, "the city of destiny," beyond all doubt, of +any of the towns on the Sound. Favored by nature in many ways, Townsend +has the finest roadstead and the best anchorage ground in these waters, +and this must tell in the end, when advantages for sea trade are +considered. Victoria, B.C., is reached in the evening, and we sleep +that night in Her Majesty's dominions. The next day may be spent very +pleasantly in driving and walking about the city, a handsome town of +14,000 people. + +[Illustration: CASCADES, FROM THE OREGON SHORE, COLUMBIA RIVER. On the +Union Pacific Ry.] + +A thorough system of macadamized roads radiates from Victoria, +furnishing about 100 miles of beautiful drives. Many of these drives +are lined with very handsome suburban residences, surrounded with lawns +and parks. Esquimalt, near Victoria, has a fine harbor. This is the +British naval station where several iron-clads are usually stationed. +There is also an extensive dry-dock, hewn out of the solid rock, +capacious enough to receive large vessels. + +In the evening after dinner, one can return to the steamer and take +possession of a stateroom, for the boat leaves at four in the morning. +When breakfast time comes we are well on our return trip, and moving +past Port Townsend again. The majestic straits of Fuca, through which +we have passed, are well worth a visit; it is a taste of being at sea +without any discomfort, for the water is without a ripple. As we steam +homeward there is a vision which has been described for all time by a +master hand. "One becomes aware of a vast, white shadow in the water. +It is a giant mountain dome of snow in the depths of tranquil blue. The +smoky haze of an Oregon August hid all the length of its lesser ridges +and left this mighty summit based upon uplifting dimness. Only its +splendid snows were visible high in the unearthly regions of clear, +noonday sky. Kingly and alone stood this majesty without any visible +comrade, though far to the north and south there were isolated +sovereigns. This regal gem the Christians have dubbed Mount Rainier, +but more melodious is its Indian name, 'Tacoma.'" + +A LEGEND OF TACOMA. + +Theodore Winthrop, in his own brilliant way, tells a quaint legend of +Tacoma, as related to him by a frowsy Siwash at Nisqually. "Tamanous," +among the native Indians of this section, is a vague and +half-personified type of the unknown and mysterious forces of Nature. +There is the one all-pervading Tamanous, but there are a thousand +emanations, each one a tamanous with a small "t." Each Indian has his +special tamanous, who thus becomes "the guide, philosopher, and friend" +of every Siwash. The tamanous, or totem, types himself as a salmon, a +beaver, an elk, a canoe, a fir-tree, and so on indefinitely. In some of +its features this legend resembles strongly the immortal story of Rip +Van Winkle; it may prove interesting as a study in folk-lore. + +"Avarice, O, Boston tyee!" quoth the Siwash, studying me with dusky +eyes, "is a mighty passion. Know you that our first circulating medium +was shells, a small perforated shell not unlike a very opaque quill +toothpick, tapering from the middle, and cut square at both ends. We +string it in many strands and hang it around the neck of one we +love--namely, each man his own neck. And with this we buy what our +hearts desire. Hiaqua, we call it, and he who has most hiaqua is wisest +and best of all the dwellers on the Sound. + +"Now, in old times there dwelt here an old man, a mighty hunter and +fisherman. And he worshipped hiaqua. And always this old man thought +deeply and communed with his wisdom, and while he waited for elk or +salmon he took advice within himself from his demon--he talked with +tamanous. And always his question was, 'How may I put hiaqua in my +purse?' But never had Tamanous revealed to him the secret. There loomed +Tacoma, so white and glittering that it seemed to stare at him very +terribly and mockingly, and to know of his shameful avarice, and how it +led him to take from starving women their cherished lip and nose jewels +of hiaqua, and give them in return tough scraps of dried elk-meat and +salmon. His own peculiar tamanous was the elk. One day he was hunting +on the sides of Tacoma, and in that serene silence his tamanous began +to talk to his soul. 'Listen!' said tamanous--and then the great secret +of untold wealth was revealed to him. He went home and made his +preparations, told his old, ill-treated squaw he was going for a long +hunt, and started off at eventide. The next night he camped just below +the snows of Tacoma, but sunrise and he struck the summit together, for +there, tamanous had revealed to him, was hiaqua--hiaqua that should +make him the greatest and richest of his tribe. He looked down and saw +a hollow covered with snow, save at the centre, where a black lake lay +deep in a well of purple rock, and at one end of the lake were three +large stones or monuments. Down into the crater sprang the miser, and +the morning sunshine followed him. He found the first stone shaped like +a salmon head; the second like a kamas root, and the third, to his +great joy, was the carven image of an elk's head. This was his own +tamanous, and right joyous was he at the omen, so taking his elk-horn +pick he began to dig right sturdily at the foot of the monument. At the +sound of the very first blow he made, thirteen gigantic otters came out +of the black lake and, sitting in a circle, watched him. And at every +thirteenth blow they tapped the ground with their tails in concert The +miser heeded them not, but labored lustily for hours. At last, +overturning a thin scale of rock, he found a square cavity filled to +the brim with hiaqua. + +"He was a millionaire. + +"The otters retired to a respectful distance, recognizing him as a +favorite of Tamanous. + +"He reveled in the treasure, exulting. Deep as he could plunge his arm, +there was still more hiaqua below. It was strung upon elk sinews, fifty +shells on a string. But he saw the noon was passed, so he prepared to +depart. He loaded himself with countless strings of hiaqua, by fifties +and hundreds, so that he could scarcely stagger along. Not a string did +he hang on the tamanous of the elk, or the salmon, or the kamas--not +one--but turned eagerly toward his long descent. At once all the otters +plunged back into the lake and began to beat the waters with their tails; +a thick, black mist began to rise threateningly. Terrible are the storms +in the mountains--and Tamanous was in this one. Instantly the fierce +whirlwind overtook the miser. He was thrown down and flung over icy +banks, but he clung to his precious burden. Utter night was around him, +and in every crash and thunder of the gale was a growing undertone which +he well knew to be the voice of Tamanous. Floating upon this undertone +were sharper tamanous voices, shouting and screaming, always sneeringly, +'Ha, ha, hiaqua!--ha, ha, ha!' Whenever the miser attempted to continue +his descent the whirlwind caught him and tossed him hither and thither, +flinging him into a pinching crevice, burying him to the eyes in a snow +drift, throwing him on jagged boulders, or lacerating him on sharp lava +jaws. But he held fast to his hiaqua. The blackness grew ever deeper and +more crowded with perdition; the din more impish, demoniac, and devilish; +the laughter more appalling; and the miser more and more exhausted with +vain buffeting. He at last thought to propitiate exasperated Tamanous, +and threw away a string of hiaqua. But the storm was renewed blacker, +louder, crueler than before. String by string he parted with his +treasure, until at the last, sorely wounded, terrified, and weak, with a +despairing cry, he cast from him the last vestige of wealth, and sank +down insensible. + +[Illustration: ROOSTER ROCK, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +"It seemed a long slumber to him, but at last he woke. He was upon the +very spot whence he started at morning. He felt hungry, and made a +hearty breakfast of the chestnut-like bulbs of the kamas root, and took +a smoke. Reflecting on the events of yesterday, he became aware of an +odd change in his condition. He was not bruised and wounded, as he +expected, but very stiff only, and his joints creaked like the creak of +a lazy paddle on the rim of a canoe. His hair was matted and reached a +yard down his back. 'Tamanous,' thought the old man. But chiefly he was +conscious of a mental change. He was calm and content. Hiaqua and +wealth seemed to have lost their charm for him. Tacoma, shining like +gold and silver and precious stones of gayest lustre, seemed a benign +comrade and friend. All the outer world was cheerful, and he thought +he had never wakened to a fresher morning. He rose and started on +his downward way, but the woods seemed strangely transformed since +yesterday; just before sunset he came to the prairie where his lodge +used to be; he saw an old squaw near the door crooning a song; she was +decked with many strings of hiaqua and costly beads. It was his wife; +and she told him he had been gone many, many years--she could not tell +how many; that she had remained faithful and constant to him, and +distracted her mind from the bitterness of sorrow by trading in kamas +and magic herbs, and had thus acquired a genteel competence. But little +cared the sage for such things; he, was rejoiced to be at home and at +peace, and near his own early gains of hiaqua and treasure buried in +a place of security. He imparted whatever he possessed--material +treasures or stores of wisdom and experience--freely to all the land. +Every dweller came to him for advice how to spear the salmon, chase the +elk, or propitiate Tamanous. He became the great medicine man of the +Siwashes and a benefactor to his tribe and race. Within a year after he +came down from his long nap on the side of Tacoma, a child, my father, +was born to him. The sage lived many years, revered and beloved, and on +his death-bed told this history to my father as a lesson and a warning. +My father dying, told it to me. But I, alas! have no son; I grow old, +and lest this wisdom perish from the earth, and Tamanous be again +obliged to interpose against avarice, I tell the tale to thee, O Boston +tyee. Mayst thou and thy nation not disdain this lesson of an earlier +age, but profit by it and be wise!" + +So far the Siwash recounted his legend without the palisades of Fort +Nisqually, and motioning, in expressive pantomime, at the close, that he +was dry with big talk and would gladly "wet his whistle." + +The town of Tacoma contains about 15,000 inhabitants, and is in a highly +prosperous condition. From here one may start on the grand Alaskan tour, +winding up through all the wonders of sound and strait, bay and ocean, to +the far North summerland--a trip of most entrancing interest. The return +from Tacoma to Portland may be made by either rail or boat. + +So much has already been said in preceding pages about Puget Sound that +it would seem the subject might be somewhat overdone. But it still +remains to be said that justice can never be done to the scenic glories +of this beautiful inland sea. The views from different points, and from +almost every point on the Sound, are of sublime grandeur. On the east are +the Cascade Mountains, ranging from 5,000 to 14,444 feet in height, Mount +Rainier for Tacoma, (as it is also called) being of the latter altitude, +and only third in height of the mountains of the United States. On the +west are the Olympic Mountains, the highest peaks of which reach up to +8,000 feet. Both ranges, brilliantly snow-crowned, are within view at the +same time from various points, and the scenery in its entirety, with its +continual changefulness and features of sublimity, can not be excelled. +Strangers and travelers who have visited every part of the world never +leave the deck of the steamers while going through the waters of the +Sound country. In noting a single feature, Mount Rainier, Senator George +F. Edmunds wrote as follows: "I have been through the Swiss mountains, +and am compelled to own that there is no comparison between the finest +effects exhibited there and what is seen in approaching this grand and +isolated mountain. I would be willing to go 500 miles again to see that +scene. The Continent is yet in ignorance of what will be one of the +grandest show places, as well as sanitariums. If Switzerland is rightly +called the play-ground of Europe, I am satisfied that around the base of +Mt. Rainier will become a prominent place of resort, not for America +only, but for the world besides, with thousands of sites for building +purposes that are nowhere excelled for the grandeur of the view that can +be obtained from them, with topographical features that would make the +most perfect system of drainage both possible and easy, and with a most +agreeable and health-giving climate." + +A more enthusiastic writer says: "Puget Sound scenery is the grandest +scenery in the world. One has here in combination the sublimity of +Switzerland, the picturesqueness of the Rhine, the rugged beauty of +Norway, the breezy variety of the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence, +or the Hebrides of the North Sea, the soft, rich-toned skies of Italy, +the pastoral landscape of England, with velvet meadows and magnificent +groves, massed with floral bloom, and the blending tints and bold color +of the New England Indian summer. Features with which nothing within the +vision of another city can be placed in comparison are the Olympic range +of mountains in front of Seattle, and the sublime snow peaks of the +Rainier, Baker, Adams, and St. Helens, with their glaciers and robes of +eternal white, and the great falls of the Snoqualmie, 280 feet high, near +by." + +[Illustration: MOUNT ST. HELENS, WASHINGTON, FROM NEAR MOUTH OF THE +WILLAMETTE RIVER. Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +The geography and topography of this sheet are alone a wonder and a +study. Glance upon the map. The elements of earth and water seem to +have struggled for dominion one over the other. The Strait of Juan de +Fuca and the Gulf of Georgia to the south narrow into Admiralty Inlet; +the inlet penetrates the very heart of the Territory, cutting the land +into most grotesque shapes, circling and twisting into a hundred minor +inlets, into which flow a hundred rivers, fed in their turn by myriads +of smaller creeks and bayous--a veritable network of lakes, streams, +peninsulas, and islands which, with the mountain ranges backing the +landscapes on either hand, can not fail to be picturesque in the +extreme. Here on the placid bosom of this inland sea, the pleasure +seeker can enjoy all the delights and exhilarating influences of ocean +travel without its inconveniences. No sea sickness, no proneness to +reflect on "to be or not to be," but, amid the bracing breezes, the +steady, easy glide of the commodious steamer over pleasant waters, +takes him through scenes as fair as the poet's brightest dreams. This +"Mediterranean of the Pacific" throughout its length and breadth is +adorned with heavily-wooded and fantastically-formed islands. The giant +firs are the tallest and straightest in the world. Here the "Great +Eastern" came for her masts, and here thousands of ships obtain their +spars yearly. + +To repeat, the scenery is indeed something unsurpassed. A ride over these +placid waters, in and out, around rocky headlands, among woody mountains, +along beautiful beaches and graceful tongues of velvety meadows--all +'neath the shadows of towering, snow-clad peaks, is a delight worth days +of travel to experience. It enraptures the artist and enthuses even +ordinarily prosy folks. There is no single feature wanting to make of +such places as Tacoma, Seattle, and Port Townsend, the most delightful +and agreeable watering places in the world. Surrounded by magnificent and +picturesque scenery, with beautiful drives and lovely bays for yachting +purposes, with splendid fishing and sport of every description to be had, +with a climate that would charm a misanthrope, why should they not become +the favorite resorts on the Great West Coast? These facts led to the +building of the magnificent Hotel Tacoma, at a cost of a quarter of a +million dollars. Other such caravansaries will follow, and in time Puget +Sound will be famous the world over for its incomparable attractions for +the health and pleasure seeker. + +The average traveler has but a faint idea of the wonderful resources of +this grand empire. Puget Sound has about 1,800 miles of shore line, and +all along this long stretch is one vast and almost unbroken forest of +enormous trees. The forests are so vast that, although the saw-mills have +been ripping 500,000,000 feet of lumber out of them every year for the +past ten years, the spaces made by these inroads seem no more than garden +patches. An official estimate places the amount of standing timber in that +area at 500,000,000,000 feet, or a thousand years' supply, even at the +enormous rate the timber is now being felled and sawed. + +In the vicinity of Olympia, the capital of Washington, are a number of +popular resorts for sportsmen and campers--beautiful lakes filled with +voracious trout, and streams alive with the speckled mountain beauties. +The forests abound in bear and deer, while grouse, pheasants, quail, and +water-fowl afford fine sport to the hunter of small game. + +THE NEW EMPIRE OF EASTERN WASHINGTON. + +The recent extensions of the Union Pacific System have aided in the most +important way the development of the richest and most fertile lands of +Eastern Washington. The great plains of the Upper Columbia, stretching +from the river away to the far north, are incomparably rich, the soil of +great depth and wondrous fertility, rainless harvests, and a luxuriance +of farm and garden produce which is almost tropical in its wealth. This +favored region has been for years known as the + +PALOUSE COUNTRY, + +And is reached from Portland via Pendleton, on the main line of the Union +Pacific Ry. From Pendleton to Spokane Falls on the north the soil is rich +beyond belief; a black, loamy deposit so deep that it seems well-nigh +inexhaustible. This heavy soil predominates in the valleys, and while the +uplands are not so rich, still immense crops of wheat are raised. For +hundreds of miles on this new division of the Union Pacific the country +is a perfect garden land of wheat and fruit, and these farms are often of +mammoth proportions. Here are 13,000,000 acres of land possessing all the +requirements and advantages of climate and soil for the making of one +vast wheat-field. The enormous yield of 7,000,000 bushels of wheat has +been harvested in one valley. + +The authentic figures of the crop yield in this splendid country seem +almost incredible. Fifty thousand bushels of wheat have been raised on +1,000 acres of land. As low as 35 bushels and as high as 74-1/4 bushels +of wheat to the acre have been harvested in this section. The average +covered seems to be from 47 to 55 bushels per acre, and no fertilizers +of any sort being required. The berry in its full maturity is very +solid, weighing from 65 to 69 pounds per bushel, this being from five +to nine pounds over standard weight. While wheat is the staple product, +oats are also grown, the yield being very heavy. Rye, barley, and flax +are also successfully cultivated. Clover, bunch-grass, and alfalfa grow +finely. + +In the growing of fruits and vegetables this grand empire of Eastern +Washington is quite unsurpassed. At one of the recent agricultural +fairs a farmer exhibited 109 varieties of fruits, vegetables, and +cereals. These included the best qualities of Yellow Nansemond sweet +potatoes, mammoth melons of all varieties, eggplant, sorghum and syrup +cane, broom-corn, tobacco, grapes, cotton, peanuts, and many other +things, some of which do not attain to so high a degree of excellence +elsewhere farther north than the Carolinas. Peaches, apples, and prunes +of superior quality delighted the eye. Peaches had been marketed +continuously, from, the same orchards, from the 15th of July to the +15th of October. There were hanging in the pavilion diplomas awarded at +the New Orleans Exposition to citizens in this valley for exhibits of +the best qualities and greatest varieties of corn, wheat, oats, barley, +and hops. + +The advantage to the farmer of rainless harvesting months is obvious. The +wheat is all harvested by headers, leaving the straw on the ground for its +enrichment. Thus binding, hauling, and sacking are largely dispensed with. +The grain, when threshed, is piled on the ground in jute sacks, saving the +expense of granaries and hauling to and from them. These jute sacks cost +for each bushel of grain about 3 cents, which is far less than farmers +elsewhere are subjected to in hauling their grain to and from granaries +and through a system of elevators until it reaches shipboard. + +Here, as well as in Western Washington, most vegetables grow to an +enormous size, and are of superior quality when compared with the same +varieties grown in the East. Those kinds that require much heat, as +melons, tobacco, peppers, egg-plants, etc., grow to great perfection. The +root crops--beets, carrots, parsnips, potatoes, turnips, etc.--yield +prodigiously on the fertile bottom-land soils, without much care besides +ordinary cultivation. The table beet soon gets too large for the +dinner-pot. It is nothing unusual for a garden beet to weigh ten pounds, +and they often grow to eighteen or twenty pounds' weight. Mangel wurzel, +the stock beet, sometimes grows to forty and fifty pounds' weight, if +given room and proper cultivation. They may easily be made to produce +twenty-five tons per acre on good soil. All other vegetables, such as +parsnips, carrots, peas, beans, tomatoes, onions, cabbages, celery, and +cauliflower, are perfectly at home on every farm of Eastern Washington. +Market gardening is becoming quite an important pursuit, and holds out +particularly high inducements to the farmer, because of the superb market +now afforded by the non-producing mineral and timber regions, easily +accessible in this and adjacent Territories. + +There are over 2,000 square miles of arable land in this magnificent +region, and there has never been a crop failure since its settlement. +Outside of Government lands prices range at from $4 to $10 per acre for +unimproved, and from $12 to $20 for improved lands. + +[Illustration: HORSE TAIL FALLS, ORE. +On the Union Pacific Ry.] + +Along the line of Union Pacific in this grand new empire will be found +many energetic, thriving young towns, all possessing those social and +educational facilities which are now a part of every Western village. +Pendleton, on the main line, is a wide-awake, bustling young city, +situated in a fine agricultural district. Walla Walla, Athena, Weston, +Waitsburg, Dayton, Pullman, Garfield, Latah, Tekoa, Colfax, Moscow, +Farmington, and Rockford are all thriving towns, and are already good +distributing centers. The last-named town enjoys the advantage of being +in the center of a fine lumber district, and within a circuit of five +miles from Rockford there are ten saw-mills, besides an inexhaustible +supply of mica. Crossing the border into Idaho, rich silver and lead +mines are found along the Coeur d'Alene River. + +Rockford is twenty-four miles from Spokane Falls, and has about 1,000 +population; its elevation is 2,440 feet. Four miles distant is the +boundary of the Coeur d'Alene Reservation, a lovely tract, thirty by +seventy miles in extent, embracing beautiful Coeur d'Alene Lake and the +three rivers, St. Joseph, St. Marys, and Coeur d'Alene, which empty +into it. There about 250 Indians on this reservation, and they enjoy +the proud distinction of being the only tribe who refuse Government +aid. They have been offered the usual rations, but preferred to remain +independent. They live in houses, farm quite extensively, and use all +kinds of improved farm machinery; many of them are quite wealthy. The +lake is one of the prettiest sheets of water on the continent; its +waters are full of salmon, and in the heavy pine woods are many +varieties of game, from quail to grizzly bear and elk. The town of +Rockford will in the near future assume importance as a tourist point, +both from its own healthy and picturesque location, and its nearness to +Coeur d'Alene Lake. A Government Commission is now at work on a +settlement with the Indians, whereby the whole or a part of this noble +domain will be thrown open to the public. The peculiar attractions of +Coeur d'Alene must in a short time render it a much sought for resort. + +SPOKANE FALLS + +Is one of those miracles possible only in the alert, aggressive West. +When Mr. Hayes was inaugurated it was a blank wilderness. Not a single +civilized being lived within a hundred miles of it. One day in 1878 a +white man came along in a "bull team," saw the wild rapids and the mighty +falls of the Spokane River, reflected on the history of St. Paul and +Minneapolis with their little Falls of St. Anthony, looked at the tide of +immigration just turning toward the farther Northwest, and concluded he +would sit right down where he was and wait for a city to grow around him. +This far-sighted pioneer is still living within earshot of those rumbling +falls, and they make a cheerful music for him. The city is there with +him, 22,000 people, and he can draw a check to-day good for $1,000,000. +For several years his eyes fell on nothing but gravel-beds and foamy +waters. Now, as he looks around, he sees mills and factories, railroad +lines to the north, south, east, and west, churches, theatres, +school-houses, costly dwellings and stores, paved streets, and all that +makes living easy and comfortable. The greater part of this has come +within his vision since 1883. But even then there was quite a village. +After this pioneer had spent a lonely year or two on his homestead, two +other men came along. They were friends, who, upon an outing, had chanced +to meet. They were captivated by the waterfall, and by what the pioneer +told them of the fine fanning lands in the adjacent country, and they +offered each to take a third of his holding. Then they began to +advertise, and to place adventurous farmers on homestead claims. They +were wise in their day and generation, and they worked harder to fill the +country with grain-producers than to sell real estate around the falls. +They soon had their reward. The merchants were quickly provided with +store-houses, rental values were kept low, every inducement was offered +that could possibly stimulate building activity, and in three years the +farming country was made to perceive that Spokane was its natural point +of entry and of shipment. The turbulent waters of the Spokane River, a +clear and beautiful mountain stream, were caught above the falls, and +directed wherever the factories and mills that had been established above +them required their services. Four large flouring-mills quickly took +advantage of the rich opportunity growing out of this unique situation. +From two enormous agricultural areas they are enabled to draw their +supplies of grain, flour, therefore, being manufactured for the farmers +more cheaply at Spokane: than anywhere else. This circumstance alone +exercised a large influence in giving the new town a hold upon the +country districts. These constitute more than a region--they are really a +grand division of the State, and form what is known as the Great Plain of +the Columbia River. + +THE COEUR D'ALENE MINES + +Have reached a high and profitable state of development. These mines +extend over a comparatively limited area. They are close together, and +their ores, producing gold, silver, and lead, are all similar. Their +output for the last three years has been quite remarkable, and has placed +the Coeur d'Alene district among the foremost lead-producing regions in +the country. Gold, associated with iron, and treated by the free-milling +process, is largely found in the northern part of the district, but the +greatest amount of tonnage is derived from the southern country, where +the Galena silver mines, a dozen or more in number, have been discovered. +That minerals in large quantity existed in this country has been known for +years. But the want of railroad facilities for a long while prevented any +serious effort to get at them. The matter of transportation is now laid +at rest, and within the last three years $1,000,000 has been spent in +development. The returns have already more than justified the investment. + +Tributary to Spokane, and reached by the various railroads now in +operation, are five other mining districts, at Colville, Okanagan, +Kootenai, Metaline, and Pend d'Oreille. They are in various stages of +development, but their wealth and availability have been clearly +ascertained. Spokane's population, in a degree greater than that of most +all these new cities, consists of young men and young women from the New +England and Middle States. They have enjoyed a remarkable and wholly +uninterrupted period of prosperity. Some of them have grown quickly and +immensely rich from real estate operations, but the great majority have +yet to realize on their investments because of the large sacrifices they +have made in building up the city. They are to-day in an admirable +position. As they have made money they have spent it; spent it in street +railroads, in the laying out of drives, in the building of comfortable +houses, in the establishment of electrical plants, and in a large number +of local improvements, every one of which has borne its part in making +the city attractive. + +WONDERFUL VITALITY. + +It has been well said of Spokane Falls, that "it was another +fire-devastated city that did not seem to know it was hurt." + +If Washington can stand the loss of millions of dollars in its four great +fires of the year, at Cheney, Ellensburg, Seattle, and Spokane, it is the +strongest evidence that its recuperative powers have solid backing. It +does seem to stand the loss, and actually thrive under it. + +The great fire at Spokane Falls on the 4th of August, 1889, burned most +of the business portion of the city. Four hundred and fifty houses of +brick, stone, and wood were destroyed, entailing a loss, according to the +computation of the local agent of R.G. Dun & Co., of about $4,500,000. + +The insurance in the burned district amounted to $2,600,000. + +No people were ever in better condition to meet disaster, and none ever +met it with braver hearts or with quicker and more resolute determination +to survive the blow. + +The city was in the midst of a period of marvelous prosperity. Its +population was increasing rapidly, many fine buildings were in process of +construction, its trade was extending over a vast region of country which +was being penetrated by new railroads centering within its limits, and +there were flowing to it the rich fruits of half a dozen prosperous +mining districts. + +[Illustration: ONEONTA GORGE, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +Its working people were all employed at good wages, and money was +abundant with all classes. + +Hardly had the sun of the day following the fire risen upon the scene of +smoking desolation, when preparations began for rebuilding. It was felt +at once that the city would be rebuilt more substantially and more +handsomely than before. + +The rebuilding of Spokane commenced on a very extensive scale; the city +will be entirely restored within twelve months, and far more attractively +than ever before. The class of buildings erected are of a very superior +character. The new Opera House has been modeled after the Broadway +Theatre, New York; the new Hotel Spokane, a structure creditable not only +to the city, but to the entire Pacific Northwest; five National Bank +buildings, at a cost of $100,000 each; upon the burned district have +arisen buildings solid in substance, and beautiful architecturally, +varying from five to seven stories in height, and costing all the way +from $60,000 to $300,000. This sturdy young giant of the North arises +from her ashes stronger, more attractive, more substantial, than before. +And there is abundant reason for solid faith in the future of Spokane +Falls. + +It is the metropolis of a region 200,000 square miles in extent, +including 50,000 square miles of Washington, or all that portion east of +the Cascade Mountains, more than half of Idaho, the northern and eastern +portions of Oregon, a large part of Montana, and as much of British +Columbia as would make a State as large as New York. + +It is the distributing point for the Coeur d'Alene, the Colville, the +Kootenai, and the Okanagan mining districts, all of which are in a +prosperous condition, and all of which are yielding rich and growing +tributes of trade. + +It has adjacent to it the finest wheat-growing country in the world, +producing from 30 to 60 bushels per acre. + +It has adjacent to it a country equally rich in the production of fruits +and vegetables. + +It has adjacent to it the finest meadow lands between the Cascade and +Rocky Mountains. + +It has adjacent to it extensive grazing lands, on which are hundreds of +thousands of cattle, sheep, and horses. + +It has, adjacent to it, on Lakes Pend d'Oreille and Coeur d'Alene, +inexhaustible quantities of white pine, yellow pine, cedar and tamarack, +the manufacturing of which into lumber is one of the important industries +of the city, and a source of great future income. + +It has a power in the falls of the Spokane River second to none in the +United States, and capable of supplying construction room and power for +300 different mills and manufactories. The entire electric lighting plant +of the city, the cable railway system, the electric railway system, the +machinery for the city water works, and all the mills and factories of +the city--the amount of wheat which was last year ground into flour +exceeding 20,000 tons--are now operated by the power from the falls. One +company alone, the Washington Water Power Company, having a capital of +$1,000,000, is now spending upward of $300,000 in the construction of +flumes and other improvements for the accommodation of new mills and +factories. + +Most fortunately for the city, all the milling properties and +improvements on the falls and along the river were saved from the fire. + +The city has a water-works system which cost nearly half a million +dollars, and which is capable of supplying 12,000,000 gallons daily, or +as much as the supply of Minneapolis when it had a population of 100,000, +or as much as the present supply of Denver with a population of 120,000, +and more than the City of Portland, Oregon, with a population of 60,000. + +A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SPOKANE FALLS. + +It requires no very profound knowledge of Western geography, no very +lengthy study of the State of Washington, to enable anyone to understand +without difficulty some of the minor reasons why Spokane Falls should +become a great and important city, the metropolis of a vast surrounding +country. A glance at the map will show the mountain range that extends up +through the Idaho Panhandle, and then along the British Columbia frontier, +to the east and north of the city. These mountains are incalculably rich +in ores of all kinds, and would amply suffice to make a Denver of Spokane +Falls, even if she had no other natural resources to draw from. The +Spokane River is the outlet of Lake Coeur d'Alene, a sheet of water sixty +miles by six, which is fed by the St. Joseph, St. Mary and Coeur d'Alene +Rivers, and which flows through a vast plain until it empties its waters +into the Columbia, the Mississippi of the Pacific Coast. From its point +of junction with the Spokane, the Columbia makes a big bend in its course +until the Snake River is reached, when it turns once more westward, and +flows on to empty into the Pacific Ocean. South of the city, stretching +westward for some distance from the mountains, and extending in a +southerly direction to the Clearwater and Snake Rivers, is a vast country +comprising millions of acres, through which the Palouse River and its +tributary streams meander, and which is known as the Palouse Valley, a +country of unlimited agricultural resources. In the center of all this +immense territory is located Spokane Falls, like the hub in the center of +a wheel. The word immense is not used unwittingly, for the mountains and +plains and valleys make up a country that in Europe would be called a +nation, and in New England would form a State. Only a far-off corner of +the Union, it may seem to some readers, yet there are powerful empires +which possess less natural resources than it can call its own. The city +itself lies on both sides of the Spokane River, at the point where that +stream, separated by rocky islands into five separate channels, rushes +onward and downward, at first being merely a series of rapids, and then +tumbling over the rocks in a number of beautiful and useful waterfalls, +until the several streams unite once again for a final plunge of sixty +feet, making a fall of 157 feet in the distance of half a mile. This +waterfall, with its immense power, would alone make a city; engineers +have estimated its force at 90,000 horse-power, and it is so distributed +that it can be easily utilized. + +[Illustration: A FISH WHEEL, COLUMBIA RIVER. On the Union Pacific Ry.] + + * * * * * + +_Fourth Tour_.--To + +ALASKA. + +The native islanders called the mainland "Al-ay-ek-sa," which signifies +"great country," and the word has been corrupted into "Alaska." This +immense empire, it will be remembered, was sold by Russia to the United +States October 18, 1867, for $7,500,000. The country was discovered by +Vitus Behring in 1741. Alaska has an area of 578,000 square miles, and is +nearly one-fifth as large as all the other States and Territories +combined. It is larger than twelve States the size of New York. + +The best time to visit Alaska is from May to September. The latter month +is usually lovely, and the sea beautifully smooth, but the days begin to +grow short. The trip occupies about twenty-five days. + +As the rainfall in Alaska is usually very large, it naturally follows +that an umbrella is a convenient companion. A gossamer for a lady and a +mackintosh for a gentleman, and heavy shoes, and coarse, warm and +comfortable clothing for both should be provided. + +There are no "Palace" hotels in Alaska. One will have no desire to remain +over there a trip. The tourist goes necessarily when and where the steamer +goes, will have an opportunity to see all there is of note or worth seeing +in Southeastern Alaska. The steamer sometimes goes north as far as +Chilcat, say up to about the 58th degree of north latitude. The pleasure +is not so much in the stopping as in the going. One is constantly passing +through new channels, past new islands, opening up new points of interest, +until finally a surfeit of the grand and magnificent in nature is reached. + +A correspondent of a western journal signing himself "Emerald" has +written a description of this Alaskan tour in September, 1888. It is so +charmingly done, so fresh, so vivid, and so full of interesting detail, +that it is given herewith entire: + +ON STEAMSHIP "GEORGE W. ELDER," + +PUGET SOUND, September, 1888. + +We have all thought we were fairly appreciative of the wealth and wonders +of Uncle Sam's domain. At Niagara we have gloried in the belief that all +the cataracts of other lands were tame; but we changed our mind when we +stood on the brink of Great Shoshone Falls. In Yellowstone the proudest +thought was that all the world's other similar wonders were commonplace; +and at Yosemite's Inspiration Point the unspeakable thrill of awe and +delight was richly heightened by the grand idea that there was no such +majesty or glory beyond either sea. But after all this, we now know that +it yet remains for the Alaskan trip to rightly round out one's +appreciation and admiration of the size and grandeur of our native land. + +Some of our most delighted _voyageurs_ are from Portland, Maine. When +they had journeyed some 1,500 miles to Omaha they imagined themselves +at least half way across our continent. Then, when they had finished +that magnificent stretch of some 1,700 miles more from Omaha to +Portland, Oregon, in the palace cars of the Union Pacific, they were +quite sure of it. Of course, they confessed a sense of mingled +disappointment and eager anticipation when they learned that they were +yet less than half way. They learned what is a fact--that the extreme +west coast of Alaska is as far west of Sitka as Portland, Maine, is +east of Portland, Oregon, and the further fact that San Francisco lacks +4,000 mile's of being as far west as Uncle Sam's "Land's End," at +extreme Western Alaska. It is a great country; great enough to contain +one river--the Yukon--about as large as the Mississippi, and a coast +line about twice as long as all the balance of the United States. It is +twelve times as large as the State of New York, with resources that +astonish every visitor, and a climate not altogether bad, as some would +have it. The greatest trouble is that during the eighteen years it has +been linked to our chain of Territories it has been treated like a +discarded offspring or outcast, cared for more by others than its +lawful protector. But, like many a refugee, it is carving for itself a +place which others will yet envy. But, to + +OUR TRIP. + +There are seven in our party, mainly from Chicago. After a week of +delightful mountaineering at Idaho Springs, in Platte Canon, and other +Union Pacific resorts in Colorado, we indulged in that delicious plunge +at Garfield Beach, Salt Lake, and, en route to Portland over the Union +Pacific Ry., quaffed that all but nectar at Soda Springs, Idaho, and +dropped off a day to take a peep, at Shoshone Falls, which, in all +seriousness, have attractions of which even our great Niagara can not +boast. We found that glorious dash down through the palisades of the +Columbia, and the sail, through the entrancing waterways of Puget Sound, +a fitting prelude to our recent Alaskan journey. + +The Alaskan voyage is like a continuous dream of pleasure, so placid and +quiet are the waters of the landlocked sea and so exquisitely beautiful +the environment. The route keeps along the east shore of Vancouver Island +its entire length, through the Gulf of Georgia, Johnstone strait, and out +into Queen Charlotte Sound, where is felt the first swell of old ocean, +and our staunch steamship "Elder" was rocked in its cradle for about four +hours. Oftentimes we seemed to be bound by mountains on every side, with +no hope of escape; but the faithful deck officer on watch would give his +orders in clear, full tones that brought the bow to some passage leading +to the great beyond. In narrow straits the steamer had to wait for the +tide; then would she weave in and out, like a shuttle in a loom, among +the buoys, leaving the black ones on the left and the red ones on the +right, and ever and anon they would be in a straight line, with the +wicked boulder-heads visible beneath the surface or lifting their savage +points above, compelling almost a square corner to be turned in order to +avoid them. At such times the passengers were all on deck, listening to +the captain's commands, and watching the boat obey his bidding. + +From Victoria to Tongas Narrows the distance is 638 miles, and here was +the first stop for the tourists. The event here was going ashore in +rowboats, and in the rain, only to see a few dirty Indians--a foresight +of what was to follow--and a salmon-packing house not yet in working +order. + +From Tongas Narrows to Fort Wrangel, thousands of islands fill the water, +while the mainland is on the right and Prince of Wales Island on the +extreme left. + +FORT WRANGEL. + +Like all Alaska towns, it is situated at the base of lofty peaks along +the water's edge at the head of moderately pretty harbors. It seems to be +the generic home of storms, and the mountains, the rocks, the buildings, +and trees, and all, show the weird workings of nature's wrath. In 1863 it +was a thriving town where miners outfitted for the mines of the Stikeen +river and Cassian mines of British Columbia; but that excitement has +temporarily subsided, and the $150,000 government buildings are falling +in decay. The streets are filled with debris, and everything betokens the +ravages of time. The largest and most grotesque totem poles seen on the +trip here towered a height of fifty feet. Those poles represent a history +of the family and the ancestry as far as they can trace it. If they are of +the Wolf tribe a huge wolf is carved at the top of the pole, and then on +down with various signs to the base, the great events of the family and +the intermarriages, not forgetting to give place to the good and bad gods +who assisted them. The genealogy of a tribe is always traced back through +the mother's side. The totem poles are sometimes very large, perhaps four +feet at the base. When the carving is completed they are planted firmly in +front of the hut, there to stay until they fall away. At the lower end, +some four feet from the ground, there is an opening into the already +hollowed pole, and in this are put the bones of the burned bodies of the +family. It is only the wealthier families who support a totem pole, and +no amount of money can induce an Indian to part with his family tree. + +[Illustration: SITKA HARBOR, ALASKA. +Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +THE GRAVES + +of those not having totems are found in clusters, or scattered on the +mountain sides, or anywhere convenience dictates. The bones are put in a +box with all the belongings of the deceased, and then deposited anywhere. +The natives are exceedingly superstitious and jealous in their care of the +dead, and would sooner die than molest or steal from a grave. That +tourists who are supposed to be civilized, refined, and Christianized +should steal from them is a crime which should never be tolerated, as it +was among the passengers of our steamer. + +The natives have a belief that all bodies cremated turn into ravens, and +that probably accounts to them for the endless number of those birds in +Alaska. Ravens are sacred birds to them, and are never molested in +anyway. There are other methods of disposing of the dead in different +parts of Alaska. The bones are sometimes put in a canoe and raised high +in the air on straddles; again, in trees above the reach of prowling +animals, or set adrift in a discarded canoe. + +JUNEAU--THE TREADWELL MINE. + +After leaving Wrangel the steamer anchored off Salmon Bay to lighter +eighty tons of salt for fishermen, then on to Juneau and Douglas Islands. +Here was the same general appearance of location, the gigantic background +of densely wooded mountains, the tide-washed streets, on broken slopes, +the dirty native women with their wares for sale, with prices advanced +200 per cent, since the steamer whistled, and behind them their stern +male companions, goading them on to make their sales, and stealthily +kicking them in their crouched positions if they came down on their +prices to an eager but economical tourist. + +Juneau is the only town of any importance on the mainland. It has arisen +to that dignity through the quality of its mines, and it is now the +mining centre of Alaska. Here we found Edward I. Parsons, of San +Francisco, erecting an endless-rope tramway for conducting ores to a +ten-stamp mill now under construction. Mr. Parsons has had large +experience in this line, and his tales of "Tramway Life" in Mexico are +intensely thrilling and full of interest. It is to be hoped that the good +people of Juneau will see to it that he does not have to eat the native +dishes, as he did in the land of the greasers. The festive dog is all +right in his place, but rather revolting to an epicure. + +The famous Treadwell gold mine lies across the bay, on Douglas Island. It +is noted, not so much for its richness per ton, but for its vast extent. +The 120-stamp mill makes such a deafening noise that there is no fear +that the curious minded will cause employes to waste any time answering +questions, for nothing can be heard but the rise and fall of the great +crushers and the crunching of the ores. The ore is so plentiful that an +addition of 120 stamps is being added to the present capacity. The hole +blasted by the miners looks like the crater of a huge volcano without the +circling top, and sloping down to an apex from which is the tunnel to the +mill. The Treadwell yields about $200,000 per month, and will double that +when the mill is completed. + +There are many pleasant homes in Juneau, and some of its society people +are charming indeed. The business houses carry some large stocks of +goods, and outfitting for the interior mines in the Yukon country is all +done at this place. There are two weekly papers, one the _Mining Record_, +an eight-page, bright, newsy paper which deserves a liberal support. + +One of the most novel and grotesque features of the entire trip was a +dance given by the Indians at + +A "POTLATCH," + +a term applied to any assemblage of good cheer, although in its primary +sense it means a gift. A potlatch is given at the outset, or during the +progress of some important event, such as the building of a new house, +confirming of a sub-chief, or celebrating any good fortune, either of +peace or war. In this instance, a sub-chief was building a new house, and +the frame work was inclosed in rough boards with no floor laid. There is +never but one entrance to an Indian hut. This is in front, and elevated +several feet from the ground, so that you must go down from the door-sill +inside as well as out. No windows were yet in the building, and it was +really in a crude state. These grand festivities last five days, and this +was the second day of merry-making. + +There are two tribes at Juneau, located at each extreme of the town. The +water was black with canoes coming to the feast and dance, bringing gifts +to the tyhee, who, in return, gives them gifts according to their wealth, +and a feast of boiled rice and raisins and dog-meat. The richest men of +the tribe dressed, in the rear of the building, in the wildest and most +fantastic garbs, some in skins of wild animals. There was a full panoply +of blankets, feathers, guns, swords, knives, and, as a last resort, an +old broom was covered with a scarlet case. Jingling pendant horns added +to their usual order, and the savage faces were painted with red and +black in hideous lines. Anything their minds could shape was rigged for a +head-dress, and finally, when all was ready, they ran with fiendish yells +toward the beach, some twenty yards, and there behind a canvas facing the +water they began their strange dance. + +Only one squaw was with them, and she was the wife of the tyhee (chief) +giving the feast. The medicine man had a large bird with white breast, +called the loon. While dancing he picked the white feathers and scattered +them on the heads of the others. The other squaws were sitting on the +ground in long rows in front of the canoes reaching to the water's edge, +about 200 feet below. + +Their music was a wild shout or croon by all the tribe, and the dancing +is a movement in any irregular way, or a swaying motion given to the time +given by the voices, and they only advanced a few inches in an hour's +time. + +The tribe approaching in canoes had their representative men dressed in +the same styles, only gayer, if possible. When the canoes glided onto the +beach, four abreast, it was the signal to drop the canvas hiding the host +and party, and advance a little distance to meet them. Then they broke +ranks and made way for the visitors to approach the house with their +gifts of blankets or other valuables for the tyhee. Most of the Indians +convert their riches into blankets. These nations, seen by the tourist in +an ordinary trip to Alaska, seem very much the same in all points visited. +None of them are poor, all have some money, and many have + +WEALTH COUNTED BY THOUSANDS. + +To be sure, some of them are in a measure Christianized, but the odors +arising from the homes of the best of them are such as a civilized nose +never scented before. Rancid grease, dried fish, pelts, decaying animals, +and human filth made the strongest perfume known to the commercial or +social world. + +[Illustration: GRANVILLE CHANNEL, ALASKA. Reached via the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +The squaws, if they were in mourning or in love, would have their faces +painted black with oil and tar. Then again, a great many wear a wooden or +ivory pin thrust through the lip just below the fleshy part. It is worn +for ornament, the same as ear-rings or nose-rings, and is called a +labret. The missionary work done among them is a commendable one, but it +seems a hopeless task. Their houses are always built with one object in +view, to be able to tie the canoe to the front door. A long row of huts +just above high-tide line can always be safely called a rancherie in that +country. Their food is brought by the tide to their very doors, and the +timbered mountains abound in wild game, and offer ample fuel for the +cutting. + +Chilcot, or Pyramid Harbor, is about twelve hours run from Juneau, and it +is here the famous Chilcot blanket is made from the goat's wool, woven by +hand, and dyed by native dyes, and worked from grotesque patterns. Here, +also, are two of the largest salmon canneries in Alaska, and here, +indeed, were we in the + +LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. + +The hours passed quickly by as the supposed night wore away. At midnight +the twilight was so bright that one could read a newspaper easily. Then +the moon shone in the clear sky with all regal splendor until 3.30 in the +morning, when old Sol again put in his claims for admission. He lifted his +golden head above the snowy peaks, and spirited away the uncertain light +of unfolding dawn by drawing the curtains of the purpling east, and +sending floods of radiance upon the entire world. It was a sight never to +be forgotten, if seen but once in a lifetime. + +Onward once again when the tide was in, and our next awakening was on the +grand glacier fields. The greatest sight of the entire trip, or of any +other in America, now opened out before many eager eyes. For several +days, icebergs had been seen sailing along on the smooth surface from the +great glaciers, and speeding to the southern seas like phantom ships. As +the ship neared the bay, these huge bergs increased in size and number, +with such grotesque and weird shapes, that the mind is absorbed in +shaping turrets, ghosts, goblins, and the like, each moment developing +more and more of things unearthly, until the heart and eyes seem bursting +with the strain, when suddenly a great roar, like the shock of an +explosion of giant powder, turns the eyes to the parent glacier to see +the birth of these unnatural forms. They break from the icy wall with a +stupendous crash, and fall into the water with such force as to send our +great ship careening on her side when the swell from the disturbed waters +strikes her. + +The Muir glacier is the one that occupies the most attention, as it is +the most accessible to tourists. It rises to a perpendicular height of +350 feet, and stretches across the entire head of the Glacier Bay, which +is estimated from three to five miles in width. The Muir and Davidson +glaciers are two arms of that great Ice field extending more than 400 +miles in length, covering more area + +THAN ALL SWITZERLAND, + +and any one of the fifteen subdivisions of the glacial stream is as large +as the Great Rhone glacier. + +Underlying this great ice field is that glacial river which bears these +mountains of ice on its bosom to the ocean. With a roar like distant +artillery, or an approaching thunder-storm, the advancing walls of this +great monster split and fall into the watery deep, which has been sounded +to a depth of some 800 feet without finding anchor. + +The glacial wall is a rugged, uneven mass, with clefts and crevices, +towering pinnacles and domes, higher than Bunker Hill monument, cutting +the air at all angles, and with a stupendous crash sections break off +from any portion without warning and sink far out of sight. Scarcely two +minutes elapse without a portion falling from some quarter. The marble +whiteness of the face is relieved by lines of intense blue, a +characteristic peculiar to the small portions as well as the great. + +Going ashore in little rowboats, the vast area along the sandy beach was +first explored, and it was, indeed, like a fairy land. There were acres +of grottoes, whose honey-combed walls were most delicately carved by the +soft winds and the sunlight reflections around and in the arches of ice, +such as are never seen except in water, ice, and sky. + +MOUNTAINS OF ICE, + +remnants of glaciers, along the beach, stood poised on one point, or +perchance on two points, and arched between. These icebergs were dotted +with stones imbedded; great bowls were melted out and filled with water, +and little cups made of ice would afford you a drink of fresh water on +the shore of this salt sea. + +At five o'clock in the morning, with the sun kissing the cold majestic +glacier into a glad awakening from its icy sleep, the ascent was begun. +Too eager to be among the first to see the top, many started without +breakfast, while others chose the wiser part, and waited to be physically +fortified. + +The ascent is not so difficult as it is dangerous. There is no trail and +no guide, and many a step had to be retraced to get across or around some +bottomless fissure. For some distance the ground seemed quite solid. Soon +it was discovered that there was but a thin covering of dirt on the solid +ice below; but anon in striking the ground with the end of an alpine stick +it would prove to be but an inch of ice and dirt mixed, and a dark abyss +below which we could not fathom. It is to be hoped, for the good of +future tourists, that there are not many such places, or that they may +soon be exposed so they can be avoided. Reaching the top after a tedious +and slippery climb, there was a long view of icy billows, as if the sea +had suddenly congealed amid a wild tempestuous storm. Deep chasms +obstructed the way on all sides, and a misstep or slip would send one +down the blue steps where no friendly rope could rescue, and only the +rushing water could be heard. To view the solid phalanxes of icy floes, +as they fill the mountain fastnesses and imperceptibly march through the +ravines and force their way to the sea, fills one with awe indescribable. +The knowledge that the ice is moving from beneath one's feet thrills one +with a curious sensation hard to portray. + +Below, it seems like the constant wooing of the sea that wins the +offering from this wealth of purity, instead of the voluntary act of this +giant of the Arctic zone. + +For twenty-four hours the awful grandeur of these scenes was gloried in, +when Captain Hunter gave the order to draw the anchor and steam away. The +whistles call the passengers back to the steamer, where they were soon +comparing specimens, viewing instantaneous photographs, hiding bedraggled +clothing, casting away tattered mufflers, and telling of hair-breadth +escapes from peril and death. Many a tired head sought an early pillow, +and floated away in dreams of ghoulish icebergs, until the call for +breakfast disclosed to opening eyes that the boat was anchored in the + +BEAUTIFUL HARBOR OF SITKA. + +The steamer's whistle is the signal for a holiday in all Alaska ports, +and Sitka is no exception to the rule. Six o'clock in the morning, but +the sleepy town had awakened to the fact of our arrival, and the +inhabitants were out in force to greet friends or sell their canoes. +There are some 1,500 people living in Sitka, including all races. The +harbor is the most beautiful a fertile brain can imagine. Exquisitely +moulded islands are scattered about in the most enchanting way, all +shapes and sizes, with now and then a little garden patch, and ever +verdant with native woods and grasses and charming rockeries. As far out +as the eye can reach the beautiful isles break the cold sea into +bewitching inlets and lure the mariner to shelter from evil outside waves. + +The village nestles between giant mountains on a lowland curve surrounded +by verdure too dense to be penetrated with the eye, and too far to try to +walk--which is a good excuse for tired feet. The first prominent feature +to meet the eye on land is a large square house, two stories high, +located on a rocky eminence near the shore, and overlooking the entire +town and harbor. Once it was a model dwelling of much pretension, with +its spacious apartments, hard-wood six-inch plank floors, +elaborately-carved decorations, stained-glass windows, and its amusement +and refreshment halls. All betoken the former elegance of the Russian +governor's home, which was supported with such pride and magnificence as +will never be seen there again. The walls are crumbling, the windows +broken, and the old oaken stairways will soon be sinking to earth again, +and its only life will be on the page of history. + +[Illustration: DEVIL'S THUMB, ALASKA. +Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +The mission-school hospital, chapel, and architectural buildings occupied +much of the tourists' time, and some were deeply interested. There are +eighteen missionaries in Sitka, under the Presbyterian jurisdiction, +trying to educate and Christianize the Indians. They are doing a noble +work, but it does seem a hopeless task when one goes among the Indian +homes, sees the filth, smells the vile odors, and studies the native +habits. + +These Indians, like the other tribes, are not poor, but all have more or +less money. + +MANY ARE RICH, + +having more than $20,000 in good hard cash, yet the squalor in which they +live would indicate the direst poverty. + +The stroll to Indian river, from which the town gets its water supply, is +bewitching. The walk is made about six feet through an evergreen forest, +the trees arching overhead, for a distance of two miles, and is close to +the bay, and following the curve in a most picturesque circle. The water +is carried in buckets loaded on carts and wheeled by hand, for horses are +almost unknown in Alaska. There are probably not more than half a dozen +horses and mules in all Alaska--not so much because of the expense of +transportation and board, as lack of roads and the long, dark days and +months of winter, when people do not go out but very little. All the +packing is done in all sections of Alaska by natives carrying the packs +and supplies on their backs. + +Sitka's most interesting object is the old Greek church, located in the +middle of the town, and also in the middle of the street. Its form is +that of a Greek cross, with a copper-covered dome, surmounted by a +chime-bell tower. The inside glitters with gold and rare paintings, gold +embroidered altar cloths and robes; quaint candelabra of solid silver are +suspended in many nooks, and an air of sacred quiet pervades the whole +building. There were no seats, for the Russians remain standing during +the worship. Service is held every Sabbath by a Russian priest in his +native language, and the church is still supported by the Russian +Government. Indeed, Russia does more for the advancement of religion than +does our own Government for Alaska. + +The walk through the Indian ranch was but a repetition of the other +towns, only that they were wealthier and uglier, if possible, than the +other tribes. The Hydahs are very powerfully built, tall, large boned, +and stout. + +Two days were spent in visiting and trafficking with these people. Then +the anchor came up, and soon a silver trail like a huge sea serpent moved +among the green isles, and followed us once more--now on the homeward +sail. + +But one new place of importance was made on the home trip, and that was at + +KILLISNOO. + +When the steamer arrived, the evening after leaving Sitka, the city +policeman met us at the wharf and invited us to visit his hut. Of course, +he was a native, who expected to sell some curios. Over his door was the +following: + + "By the Governor's commission, + And the company's permission, + I am made the grand tyhee + Of this entire illahee. + + "Prominent in song and story, + I've attained the top of glory. + As Saginaw I am known to fame, + Jake is but my common name." + +The time when he attained his fame and glory must have been when he and +his wife were both drunk one night, and he put the handcuffs on his wife +and could not get them off, and she had to go to Sitka to be released. He +appears in at least a dozen different suits while the steamer is in port, +and stands ready to be photographed every time. + +Killisnoo used to be a point where 100,000 barrels of herring oil were +put up annually. The industry is now increasing again. + +NATURAL WEALTH. + +And this reminds me that I am almost neglecting a reference to Alaska's +vast resources in forests, metals, furs, and fish. There are 300,000,000 +of acres densely wooded with spruce, red and yellow cedar, Oregon pine, +hemlock, fir, and other useful varieties of timber. Canoes are made from +single trees, sixty feet long, with eight-feet beams. + +Gold, silver, lead, iron, coal, and copper are encountered in various +localities. Though but little prospected or developed, Alaska is now +yielding gold at the rate of about $2,000,000 per year. There is a +respectable area of island and mainland country well adapted to +stock-raising, and the production of many cereals and vegetables. The +climate of much of the coast country is milder than that of Colorado, and +stock can feed on the pastures the year round. + +But, if Alaska had no mines, forests, or agriculture, its seal and salmon +fisheries would remain alone an immense commercial property. The salmon +are found in almost any part of these northern waters where fresh water +comes in, as they always seek those streams in the spawning season. There +are different varieties that come at stated periods and are caught in +fabulous numbers, sometimes running solid ten feet deep, and often +retarding steamers when a school of them is overtaken. At Idaho Inlet Mr. +Van Gasken brought up a seine for the Ancon tourists containing 350 salmon +for packing. At nearly every port the steamer landed there was either one +or more canning or salt-packing establishments for salmon. Of these, +11,500,000 pounds were marketed last year. + +Besides the salmon there is the halibut, black and white cod, rock cod, +herring, sturgeon, and many other fish, while the waters are whipped by +porpoises and whales in large numbers all along the way. Governor +Swineford estimates the products of the Alaska fisheries last year at +$3,000,000. + +THE SEAL FISHERIES + +are still 1,800 miles west of Sitka. St. Paul and St. George Islands are +the best breeding places of the seals, sea lions, sea otter, and walrus. +These islands are in a continuous fog in summer, and are swept by icy +blasts in winter. There are many interesting facts connected with these +islands and the habits of these phocine kindred, but space is limited. +Suffice that 100,000 seals are killed each year for commercial purposes. +Over 1,000,000 seal pups are born every year, and when they leave for +winter quarters they go in families and not altogether. An average seal +is about six feet long, but some are found eight feet long and weigh from +400 to 800 pounds. The work of catching is all done between the middle of +June and the first of August. The fur company are supposed to pay our +Government $2 for each pelt. These hides are at once shipped to London to +be dyed and made ready to be put on the market in the United States. + +In fact, Alaska seems full to overflowing with offerings to seekers of +fortune or pleasure. Its coast climate is mild, with no extreme heat, +because of the snow-clad peaks which temper the humid air, and never +extreme cold, because of the Japan current that bathes its mossy slopes +and destroys the frigid wave before it does its work. + +Three thousand miles along this inland sea has revealed scenes of +matchless grandeur--majestic mountains (think of snow-crowned St. Elias, +rising 19,500 feet from the ocean's edge), the mightiest glaciers, +world's of inimitable, indescribable splendor. It is a trip of a +lifetime. There is none other like it, and our party unanimously resolves +that the tourist who fails to take it misses very much. + + * * * * * + +_Fifth Tour_.--From Portland to San Francisco by steamer is one of the +most enjoyable trips offered the tourist in point of safety and comfort, +and the service is exceptionally fine. + +The steamers "Oregon," "Columbia," and "State of California" are powerful +iron steamers, built expressly for tourist travel between Portland and San +Francisco. The traveler will find this fifty-hour ocean voyage thoroughly +enjoyable; the sea is uniformly smooth, no greater motion than the long +swell of the Pacific, and the boats are models of neatness and comfort. +It affords a grand opportunity to run down the California coast, always +in sight of land, and derive the invigorating exhilaration of an ocean +trip without any of its discomforts. Among the many points of interest to +be seen are the picturesque Columbia River Bar, the beautiful Ocean Beach +at Clatsop, the towering heights of Cape Hancock, the lonely Mid-Ocean +Lighthouse at Tillamook Rock, the historical Rogue River Reef, Cape +Mendocino, Humboldt Bay, Point Arena, and last, but not least, the +world-renowned Golden Gate of San Francisco. + +[Illustration: MOONLIGHT AT THE OLD BLOCK HOUSE, COLUMBIA RIVER. On the +Union Pacific Ry.] + +The steamships of this company are all new, modern-designed iron vessels, +supplied with steam steering apparatus, electric light and bells, and all +improved nautical appliances. The state-rooms, cabins, salons, etc., are +elaborately furnished throughout, the whole presenting an unrivaled scene +of luxurious ocean life. + +The advantages of this charming ocean trip to the tourist are most +obvious; there is the healthful air of the grand old Pacific Ocean, +complete freedom from dust, heat, cinders, and all the discomforts which +one meets in midsummer railway travel. + + * * * * * + +STANDARD PUBLICATIONS BY THE PASSENGER DEPARTMENT OF THE UNION PACIFIC +RAILWAY. + +The Passenger Department of the Union Pacific Railway will take pleasure +in forwarding to any address, free, of charge, any of the following +publications, provided that with the application is enclosed the amount +of postage specified below for each publication. All of these books and +pamphlets are fresh from the press, many of them handsomely illustrated, +and accurate as regards the region of country described. They will be +found entertaining and instructive, and invaluable as guides to and +authority on the fertile tracts and landscape wonders of the great empire +of the West. There is information for the tourist, pleasure and health +seeker, the investor, the settler, the sportsman, the artist, and the +invalid. + +The Western Resort Book. Send 6 cents for postage. + +This is a finely illustrated book describing the vast Union Pacific +system. Every health resort, mountain retreat, watering place, hunter's +paradise, etc., etc., is depicted. This book gives a full and complete +detail of all tours over the line, starting from Sioux City, Council +Bluffs, Omaha, St. Joseph, Leavenworth, or Kansas City, and contains a +complete itinerary of the journey from either of these points to the +Pacific Coast. + +Sights and Scenes. Send 2 cents postage for each pamphlet. + +There are five pamphlets in this set, pocket folder size, illustrated, +and are descriptive of tours to particular points. The set comprises +"Sights and Scenes in Colorado;" Utah; Idaho and Montana; California; +Oregon, Washington, and Alaska. Each pamphlet, deals minutely with every +resort of pleasure or health within its assigned limit, and will be found +bright and interesting reading for tourists. + +Facts and Figures. Send 2 cents postage for each pamphlet. + +This is a set of three pamphlets, containing facts and figures relative +to Kansas, Nebraska, and Colorado respectively. They are more +particularly meant for intending settlers in these fertile States and +will be found accurate in every particular; there is a description of all +important towns. + +Vest Pocket Memorandum Book. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A handy, neatly gotten-up little memorandum book, very useful for the +farmer, business man, traveler, and tourist. + +Calendar, 1890. Send 6 cents for postage. + +An elegant Calendar for the year 1890, suitable for the office and +counting room. + +Comprehensive Pamphlets. Send 6 cents postage for each pamphlet. + +A set of pamphlets on Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, Idaho, Oregon, +and Washington. These books treat, of the resources, climate, acreage, +minerals, grasses, soil, and products of these various empires on an +extended scale, entering very fully upon an exhaustive treatise of the +capabilities and promise of the places described. They have been very +carefully compiled, and the information collated from Official Reports, +actual settlers, and residents of the different States and Territories. + +Theatrical Diary. Send 10 cents for postage. + +This is a Theatrical Diary for 1890-91, bound in Turkey Morocco, gilt +tops, and contains a, list of 255 theatres and opera houses reached by +the Union Pacific system, seating capacity, size of stage, terms, +newspapers in each town, etc., etc. This Diary is intended only for the +theatrical profession. + +Commercial Salesman's Expense Book. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A neat vest pocket memorandum book for 1890--dates, cash accounts, etc., +etc. + +Outdoor Sports and Pastimes. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A carefully compiled pamphlet of some thirty pages, giving the complete +rules of this year, for Lawn Tennis, Base Ball, Croquet, Racquet, +Cricket, Quoits, La Crosse, Polo, Curling, Foot Ball, etc., etc. There +are also diagrams of a Lawn Tennis Court and Base Ball diamond. This +pamphlet will be found especially valuable to lovers of these games. + +Map of the United States. Send 25 cents for postage. + +A large wall map of the United States, complete in every particular, and +compiled from the latest surveys; just published; size, 46 x 66 inches; +railways, counties, roads, etc., etc. + +Stream, Sound and Sea. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A neat, illustrated pamphlet descriptive of a trip from The Dalles of the +Columbia to Portland, Ore., Astoria, Clatsop Beach; through the strait of +Juan de Fuca and the waters of the Puget Sound, and up the coast to +Alaska. A handsome pamphlet containing valuable information for the +tourist. + +Wonderful Story. Send 2 cents for postage. + +The romance of railway building. The wonderful story of the early surveys +and the building of the Union Pacific. A paper by General G.M. Dodge, read +before the Society of the Army of the Tennessee, September, 1888. General +Sherman pronounces this document fascinatingly interesting and, of great +historical value, and vouches for its accuracy. + +Gun Club Rules and Revised Game Laws. Send 2 cents for postage. + +This valuable publication is a digest of the laws relating to game in all +the Western States and Territories. It also contains the various gun club +rules, together with a guide to all Western localities where game of +whatsoever description may be found. Every sportsman should have one. + +"The Oldest Inhabitant." Send 10 cents for postage. + +This is a buffalo head in Sepia, a very artistic study from life. It is +characterized by strong drawing and wonderful fidelity. A very handsome +acquisition for parlor or library. + +Crofutt's Overland Guide, No. 1. Send $1.00. + +This book has just been issued. It graphically describes every point, +giving its history, population, business resources, etc., etc., on the +line of the Union Pacific Hallway, between the Missouri River and the +Pacific Coast, and the tourist should not start West without a copy in +his possession. It furnishes in one volume a complete guide to the +country traversed by the Union Pacific system, and can not fail to be of +great assistance to the tourist in selecting his route, and obtaining +complete information about the points to be visited. + +A Glimpse of Great Salt Lake. Send 4 cents for postage. + +This is a charming description of a yachting cruise on the mysterious +Inland sea, beautifully illustrated with original sketches by the +well-known artist, Mr. Alfred Lambourne, of Salt Lake City. This +startling phenomena of sea and cloud and light and color are finely +portrayed. This book touches a new region, a voyage on Great Salt Lake +never before having been described and pictured. + +General Folder. No postage required. + +A carefully revised General Folder is issued regularly every month. This +publication gives condensed through time tables; through car service; a +first-class map of the United States, west of Chicago and St. Louis; +important baggage and ticket regulations of the Union Pacific Railway, +thus making a valuable compendium for the traveler and for ticket agent +in selling through tickets over the Union Pacific Railway. + +The Pathfinder. No postage required. + +A book of some fifty pages devoted to local time cards; containing a +complete list of stations with the altitude of each; also connections +with western stage lines and ocean steamships; through car service; +baggage and Pullman Sleeping Car rates and the principal ticket +regulations, which will prove of great value as a ready reference for +ticket agents to give passengers information about the local branches of +the Union Pacific Railway. + +Alaska Folder. No postage required. + +This Folder contains a brief outline of the trip to Alaska, and also a +correct map of the Northwest Pacific Coast, from Portland to Sitka, +Alaska, showing the route of vessels to and from this new and almost +unknown country. + +[Illustration: Oregon, Washington and Alaska. Sights and Scenes for the +Tourist.] + +[Illustration: Tourist Map of Union Pacific and Connecting Lines.] + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA; +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST.*** + + +******* This file should be named 10751.txt or 10751.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/7/5/10751 + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5fda4b1 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #10751 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/10751) diff --git a/old/10751-8.txt b/old/10751-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8d268a6 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/10751-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2715 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Oregon, Washington and Alaska; Sights and +Scenes for the Tourist, by E. L. Lomax + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + + + + +Title: Oregon, Washington and Alaska; Sights and Scenes for the Tourist + +Author: E. L. Lomax + +Release Date: January 19, 2004 [eBook #10751] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: iso-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA; +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST*** + + +E-text prepared by P. A. Peters, Beth Trapaga, and the Project Gutenberg +Online Distributed Proofreading Team + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 10751-h.htm or 10751-h.zip: + (http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/1/0/7/5/10751/10751-h/10751-h.htm) + or + (http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/1/0/7/5/10751/10751-h.zip) + + + + + +OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA. + +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST. + +By E.L. LOMAX, General Passenger Agent, +Union Pacific System. +Omaha, Neb. + +1890 + + + + + +[Illustration: Oregon, Washington and Alaska. Sights and Scenes for the +Tourist.] + +[Illustration: Union Pacific Overland. +Sights and Scenes in Oregon, Washington and Alaska for Tourists. +Compliments of the Passenger Department, Union Pacific System, Omaha, +Neb.] + + + + + +LIST OF AGENTS. + +ALBANY, N.Y.--23 Maiden Lane--J.D. TENBROECK. Trav. Pass. Agt. + +BOSTON, MASS.--290 Washington St.--W.S. CONDELL, New England Freight +and Passenger Agent. + J.S. SMITH, Traveling Passenger Agent. + E.M. NEWBEGIN, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. + A.P. MASSEY, Passenger and Freight Solicitor. + +BUFFALO, N.Y.--40-1/2 Exchanges St.--S.A. HUTCHISON, Trav. Pass. Agt. + +BUTTE, MONT.--Corner Main and Broadway--General Agt. + +CHEYENNE, WYO.--C.W. SWEET, Freight and Ticket Agent. + +CHICAGO, ILL.--191 South Clark St.--W.H. KNIGHT, Gen'l Agt. P. and F. +Dep'ts. + T.W. YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent. + W.T. HOLLY, City Passenger Agent. + ALFRED MORTESSEN & CO., European Immigration Agts., 140 Kinzie St. + +CINCINNATI, OHIO--56 West 4th St.--J.D. WELSH, Gen'l Agt. P. and F. +Dep'ts. + H.C. SMITH, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. + +CLEVELAND, OHIO--Kennard House.--A.G. SHEARMAN, T. F. and P. Agt. + +COLORADO SPRINGS, COLO.--E.D. BAXTER, Gen'l Agt D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +COLUMBUS, OHIO--N.W. Cor. Gay and High Sts.--T.C. HIRST, Trav. Pass. Agt. + +COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA--506 First Ave.--A.J. MANDERSON, General Agt. + R.W. CHAMBERLAIN, Passenger Agent, Transfer Depot. + J.W. MAYNARD, Ticket Agent, Transfer Depot. + A.T. ELWELL, City Ticket Agent, 507 Broadway. + +DALLAS, TEX.--H.M. DE HART, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +DENVER, COLO.--1703 Larimer St.--F.I. SMITH, Gen'l Agt. D., T. & Ft. W. +R.R. + GEO. ADY, General Passenger Agent, Colo. Div. and D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + F.B. SEMPLE, Ass't Gen'l Pass. Agt, Colo. Div. and D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + C.H. TITUS, Traveling Passenger Agent. + R.P.M. KIMBALL, City Ticket Agent. + +DES MOINES, IOWA--218 4th St.--E.M. FORD, Traveling Passenger Agent. + +DETROIT, MICH.--62 Griswold St.--D.W. JOHNSTON, Michigan Pass. Agt. + +HELENA, MONT.--2 North Main St.--A.E. VEAZIE, City Ticket Agent. + +INDIANAPOLIS, IND.--Room 3 Jackson Place.--H.O. WEBB, Traveling Passenger +Agent. + +KANSAS CITY, MO.--9th and Broadway.--J.B. FRAWLEY, Div. Pass. Agt. + J.B. REESE, Traveling Passenger Agent. + F.S. HAACKE, Traveling Passenger Agent. + H.K. PROUDFIT, City Passenger Agent. + T.A. SHAW, Ticket Agent, 1038 Union Ave. + A.W. MILLSPAUGH, Ticket Agent, Union Depot. + C.A. WHITTIER, City Ticket Agent, 528 Main St. + +LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND--23 Water St.--S. STAMFORD PARRY, General European +Agent. + +LONDON, ENGLAND--THOS. COOK & SONS, European Passenger Agents, Ludgate +Circus. + +LOS ANGELES, CAL.--51 North Spring St.--JOHN CLARK, Agt. Pass. Dep't. + A.J. HECHTMAN, Agent Freight Department. + +LOUISVILLE, KY.--346 West Main St.--N. HAIGHT, Traveling Pass. Agent. + +NEW ORLEANS, LA.--45 St. Charles St.--C.B. SMITH, General Agent D., T. +& Ft. W. R.R. + D.M. REA, Traveling Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +NEW YORK CITY--287 Broadway--R. TENBROECK, General Eastern Agent. + J.F. WILEY, Passenger Agent. + F.R. SEAMAN, City Passenger Agent. + +OGDEN, UTAH--Union Depot--C.A. HENRY, Ticket Agent. + C.E. INGALLS, Traveling Passenger Agent. + +OLYMPIA, WASH.--2d St. Wharf.--J.C. PERCIVAL, Ticket Agent. + +OMAHA, NEB.--9th and Farnam Sts.--M.J. GREEVY, Trav. Pass. Agt. + HARRY P. DEUEL, City Passenger and Ticket Agent, 1302 Farnam St. + J.K. CHAMBERS, Depot Ticket Agent, 10th and Marey Sts. + +PHILADELPHIA, PA.--133 South 4th St.--D.E. BURLEY, Trav. Pass. Agt. + L.T. FOWLER, Traveling Freight Agent. + +PITTSBURG, PA.--400 Wood St.--H.E. PASSAVANT, T. F. and P. A. + THOS. S. SPEAR, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. + +PORTLAND, ORE.--Cor. 3d and Oak Sts.--T.W. LEE, Gen'l Passenger Agent, +Pacific Div. + A.L. MAXWELL, General Agent Traffic Department. + HARRY YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent. + GEO. S. TAYLOR, City Ticket Agent. Cor. 1st and Oak Sts. + +PORT TOWNSEND, WASH.--Union Wharf--H.L. TIBBALS, Jr., Ticket Agt. + +PUEBLO, COLO.--E.R. HARDING, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +ST. JOSEPH, MO.--F.L. LYNDE, General Pass. Agent, St. J. & G.I. R.R. Div. + W.P. ROBINSON, Jr., General Freight Agent, St. J. & G.I. R.R. Div. + +ST. LOUIS, MO.--213 North 4th St.--J.F. AGLAR, Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep't. + E.R. TUTTLE, Traveling Passenger Agent. + E.S. WILLIAMS, City Passenger Agent. + C.C. KNIGHT, Freight Contracting Agent. + +SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH--201 Main St.--J.V. PARKER, Assistant General +Freight and Passenger Agent, Mountain Div. + +SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.--1 Montgomery St.--W.H. HURLBURT, Assistant General +Passenger Agent, Mo. Riv. Div. + S.W. ECCLES, General Agent Freight Department. + C.L. HANNA, Traveling Passenger Agent. + H. FRODSHAM, Passenger Agent. + J.F. FUGAZI, Italian Emigrant Agent, 5 Montgomery Ave. + +SEATTLE, WASH.--A.C. MARTIN, City Ticket Agent. + O.F. BRIGGS, Ticket Agent, Dock. + +SIOUX CITY, IOWA--513 Fourth St.--D.M. COLLINS, General Agent. + GEO. E. ABBOT, City Ticket Agent. + +SPOKANE FALLS, WASH.--108 Riverside Ave.--PERRY GRIFFIN, Passenger and +Ticket Agent. + +TACOMA, WASH.--901 Pacific Ave.--E.E. ELLIS, Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep'ts. + +TRINIDAD, COLO.--G.M. JACOBS, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +VICTORIA, B.C.--100 Government St.--G.A. COOPER, Ticket Agent. + +WHATCOM, WASH.--J.W. ALTON, Gen'l Agent Freight and Pass. Dep'ts. + + +J.A.S. REED, General Traveling Agent, 191 South Clark St., CHICAGO. +ALBERT WOODCOCK, General Land Commissioner, OMAHA, NEB. + +E.L. LOMAX, General Passenger Agent, ) OMAHA, NEB. JNO. W. +SCOTT, Ass't General Passenger Agent, ) + + * * * * * + +PULLMAN'S PALACE CAR COMPANY + +Now operates this class of service on the Union Pacific and connecting +lines. + + Double Drawing +PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES BETWEEN Berths Room + +New York and Chicago $ 5.00 $ 18.00 +New York and St. Louis 6.00 22.00 +Boston and Chicago 5.50 20.00 +Chicago and Omaha or Kansas City 2.50 9.00 +Chicago and Denver 6.00 21.00 +St. Louis and Kansas City 2.00 7.00 +St. Louis and Omaha 2.50 9.00 +Kansas City and Cheyenne 4.50 15.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Denver 3.50 12.00 +Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne 4.00 14.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and + Salt Lake City 8.00 28.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Ogden 8.00 28.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Butte 8.50 32.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Portland 13.00 50.00 +C. Bluff, Omaha or K. City and San Francisco + or Los Angeles 13.00 50.00 +Cheyenne and Portland 10.00 38.00 +Denver and Leadville 2.00 ... +Denver and Portland 11.00 42.00 +Denver and Los Angeles 11.00 42.00 +Denver and San Francisco 11.00 42.00 +Pocatello and Butte 2.00 6.00 + +For a Section, Twice the Double Berth Rates will be charged. + +The Private Hotel, Dining, Hunting and Sleeping Cars of the Pullman +Company will accommodate from 12 to 18 persons, allowing a full bed +to each, and are fitted with such modern conveniences as private, +observation and smoking rooms, folding beds, reclining chairs, buffets +and kitchens. They are "_just the thing_" for tourists, theatrical +companies, sportsmen, and private parties. The Hunting Cars have special +conveniences, being provided with dog-kennels, gun-racks, fishing-tackle, +etc. These cars can be chartered at following rates per diem (the time +being reckoned from date of departure until return of same, unless +otherwise arranged with the Pullman Company): + +Less than Ten Days. + + per day. per day. +Hotel Cars $ 50.00 Private or Hunting Cars $ 35.00 +Buffet Cars 45.00 Private Cars with Buffet 30.00 +Sleeping Cars 40.00 Dining Cars 30.00 + +Ten Days or over, $5.00 per day less than above. Hotel, Buffet, or +Sleeping Cars can also be chartered for continuous trips without +lay-over between points where extra cars are furnished (cars to be +given up at destination), as follows: + +Where berth rate is $ 1.50, car rate will be $ 35.00 + " " " 2.00, " " " " 45.00 + " " " 2.50, " " " " 55.00 + +For each additional berth rate of 50 cents, car rate will be increased +$10.00. + +Above rates include service of polite and skillful attendants. The +commissariat will also be furnished if desired. Such chartered cars must +contain not less than 15 persons holding full first-class tickets, and +another full fare ticket will be required for each additional passenger +over 15. If chartered "per diem" cars are given up _en route_, chartering +party must arrange for return to original starting point free, or pay +amount of freight necessary for return thereto. Diagrams showing interior +of these cars can be had of any agent of the Company. + +PULLMAN DINING CARS + +are attached to the Council Bluffs and Denver Vestibuled Express, daily +between Council Bluffs and Denver, and to "The Limited Fast Mail," +running daily between Council Bluffs and Portland, Ore. + +MEALS. + +All trains, except those specified above (under head of Pullman Dining +Cars), stop at regular eating stations, where first-class meals are +furnished, under the direct supervision of this Company, by the Pacific +Hotel Company. Neat and tidy lunch counters are also to be found at these +stations. + +BUFFET SERVICE. + +Particular attention is called to the fine Buffet Service offered by the +Union Pacific System to its patrons. Pullman Palace Buffet Sleepers now +run on trains Nos. 1, 2, 201, and 202. + + * * * * * + +SIGHTS AND SCENES IN OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA. + +Oregon is a word derived from the Spanish, and means "wild thyme," the +early explorers finding that herb growing there in great profusion. So +far as we have any record Oregon seems to have been first visited by +white men in 1775; Captain Cook coasted down its shores in 1778. Captain +Gray, commanding the ship "Columbia," of Boston, Mass., discovered the +noble river in 1791, which he named after his ship. Astoria was founded +in 1811; immigration was in full tide in 1839; Territorial organization +was effected in 1848, and Oregon became a State on 14th February, 1859. +It has an area of 96,000 square miles, and is 350 miles long by 275 miles +wide. There are 50,000,000 acres of arable and grazing land, and +10,000,000 acres of forest in the State. + +The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates a series of +excursion tickets called "Columbia Tours," using Portland as a central +point. Stop-over privileges will be given within the limitation of the +tickets. + +First Columbia Tour: Portland to "The Dalles," by rail, and return by +river. + +Second Columbia Tour: Portland to Astoria, Ilwaco, and Clatsop Beach, and +return by river. + +Third Columbia Tour: Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma by +boat and return. + +Fourth Columbia Tour: Portland to Alaska and return. + +Fifth Columbia Tour: Portland to San Francisco by boat. + +PORTLAND + +Is a very beautiful city of 60,000 inhabitants, and situated on the +Willamette river twelve miles from its junction with the Columbia. It is +perhaps true of many of the growing cities of the West, that they do not +offer the same social advantages as the older cities of the East. But +this is principally the case as to what may be called boom cities, where +the larger part of the population is of that floating class which follows +in the line of temporary growth for the purposes of speculation, and in +no sense applies to those centers of trade whose prosperity is based on +the solid foundation of legitimate business. As the metropolis of a +vast section of country, having broad agricultural valleys filled with +improved farms, surrounded by mountains rich in mineral wealth, and +boundless forests of as fine timber as the world produces, the cause +of Portland's growth and prosperity is the trade which it has as the +center of collection and distribution of this great wealth of natural +resources, and it has attracted, not the boomer and speculator, who +find their profits in the wild excitement of the boom, but the +merchant, manufacturer, and investor, who seek the surer if slower +channels of legitimate business and investment. These have come from +the East, most of them within the last few years. They came as seeking +a better and wider field to engage in the same occupations they had +followed in their Eastern homes, and bringing with them all the love of +polite life which they had acquired there, have established here a new +society, equaling in all respects that which they left behind. Here are +as fine churches, as complete a system of schools, as fine residences, +as great a love of music and art, as can be found at any city of the +East of equal size. + +[Illustration: PORTLAND, ORE. +On the Union Pacific Ry.] + +But while Portland may justly claim to be the peer of any city of its +size in the United States in all that pertains to social life, in the +attractions of beauty of location and surroundings it stands without its +peer. The work of art is but the copy of nature. What the residents of +other cities see but in the copy, or must travel half the world over to +see in the original, the resident of Portland has at his very door. + +The city is situate on gently-sloping ground, with, on the one side, +the river, and on the other a range of hills, which, within easy +walking distance, rise to an elevation of a thousand feet above the +river, affording a most picturesque building site. From the very +streets of the thickly settled portion of the city, the Cascade +Mountains, with the snow-capped peaks of Hood, Adams, St. Helens, and +Rainier, are in plain view. As the hills to the west are ascended the +view broadens, until, from the extreme top of some of the higher +points, there is, to the east, the valley stretching away to the +Cascade Mountains, with its rivers, the Columbia and Willamette; in the +foreground Portland, in the middle distance Vancouver, and, bounding +the horizon, the Cascade Mountains, with their snow-clad peaks, and the +gorge of the Columbia in plain sight, whilst away to the north the +course of the Columbia may be followed for miles. To the west, from the +foot of the hills, the valley of the Tualatin stretches away twenty odd +miles to the Coast Range, which alone shuts out the view of the Pacific +Ocean and bounds the horizon on the west. To the glaciers of Mt. Hood +is but little more than a day's travel. The gorge of the Columbia, +which in many respects equals, and in others surpasses the far-famed +Yosemite, may be visited in the compass of a day. The Upper Willamette, +within the limits of a few hours' trip, offers beauties equaling the +Rhine, whilst thirty-six hours gives the Lower Columbia, beside which +the Rhine and Hudson sink into insignificance. In short, within a few +hours' walk of the heart of this busy city are beauties surpassing the +White Mountains or Adirondacks, and the grandeur of the Alps lies +within the limits of a day's picnicking. + +There is no better guarantee of the advantageous position of Portland +than the wealth which has accumulated here in the short period which +has elapsed since the city first sprang into existence. Theory is all +very well, but the actual proof is in the result. At the taking of the +census of 1880, Portland was the third wealthiest city in the world in +proportion to population; since that date wealth has accumulated at an +unprecedented rate, and it is probable it is to-day the wealthiest. +Among all her wealthy men, not one can be singled out who did not make +his money here, who did not come here poor to grow rich. + +Portland enjoys superb advantages as a starting-point for tourist +travel. After the traveler has enjoyed the numerous attractions of that +wealthy city, traversed its beautiful avenues, viewed a strikingly +noble landscape from "The Heights," and explored those charming +environs which extend for miles up and down the Willamette, there +remains perhaps the most invigorating and healthful trip of all--a +journey either by + +STREAM, SOUND, OR SEA. + +There must ever remain in the mind of the tourist a peculiarly +delightful recollection of a day on the majestic Columbia River, the +all too short run across that glorious sheet of water, Puget Sound, or +the fifty hours' luxurious voyage on the Pacific Ocean, from Portland +to San Francisco. + +Beginning first with the Columbia River, the traveler will find solid +comfort on any one of the boats belonging to the Union Pacific Railway +fleet. This River Division is separated into three subdivisions: the +Lower Columbia from Portland to Astoria, the Middle Columbia from +Portland to Cascade Locks, and the Upper Columbia from the Cascades +to The Dalles. + + * * * * * + +THE UPPER COLUMBIA. + +_First Tour_.--Passengers will remember that, arriving at The Dalles, +on the Union Pacific Railway, they have the option of proceeding into +Portland either by rail or river, and their ticket is available for +either route. + +[Illustration: A GLIMPSE OF MOUNT ADAMS, WASHINGTON. As seen from the +Union Pacific Ry.] + +The river trip will be found a very pleasant diversion after the long +railway ride, and a day's sail down the majestic Columbia is a +memory-picture which lasts a life-time. It is eighty-eight miles by rail +to Portland, the train skirting the river bank up to within a few miles +of the city. By river, it is forty-five miles to the Upper Cascades, then +a six-mile portage via narrow-gauge railway, then sixty miles by steamer +again to Portland. The boat leaves The Dalles at about 7 in the morning, +and reaches Portland at 6 in the evening. The accommodations on these +boats are first-class in every respect; good table, neat staterooms, and +courteous attendants. + +This tour is planned for those who may wish to start from Portland by +the Union Pacific Railway. Take the evening train from Portland to The +Dalles. Arriving at The Dalles, walk down to the boat, which lies only +a few yards down stream from the station. Sleep on board, so that you +may be ready early in the morning for the stately panorama of the +river. Another plan is to give a day to the interesting country in the +near vicinity. The Dalles proper of the Columbia begin at Celilo, +fourteen miles above this point, and are simply a succession of rapids, +until, nearing The Dalles Station, the stream for two and a half miles +narrows down between walls of basaltic rock 130 feet across. In the +flood-tides of the spring the water in this chasm has risen 126 feet. +The word "Dalles" is rather misleading. The word is French, "dalle," +and means, variously, "a plate," "a flagstone," "a slab," alluding to +the oval or square shaped stones which abound in the river bed and the +valley above. But the early French hunters and trappers called a chasm +or a defile or gorge, "dalles," meaning in their vernacular "a +trough"--and "Dalles" it has remained. There is a quaint Indian legend +connected with the spot which may interest the curious, and it runs +something on this wise, Clark's Fork and the Snake river, it will be +remembered, unite at Ainsworth to form the Columbia. It flows furiously +for a hundred miles and more westward, and when it reaches the outlying +ridges of the Cascade chain it finds an immense low surface paved with +enormous sheets of basaltic rock. But here is the legend: + +THE LEGEND OF THE DALLES. + +In the very ancient far-away times the sole and only inhabitants of the +world were fiends, and very highly uncivilized fiends at that. The +whole Northwest was then one of the centres of volcanic action. The +craters of the Cascades were fire breathers and fountains of liquid +flame. It was an extremely fiendish country, and naturally the +inhabitants fought like devils. Where the great plains of the Upper +Columbia now spread was a vast inland sea, which beat against a rampart +of hills to the east of The Dalles. And the great weapon of the fiends +in warfare was their tails, which were of prodigious size and terrible +strength. Now, the wisest, strongest, and most subtle fiend of the +entire crew was one fiend called the "Devil." He was a thoughtful +person and viewed with alarm the ever increasing tendency among his +neighbors toward fighting and general wickedness. The whole tribe met +every summer to have a tournament after their fashion, and at one of +these reunions the Devil arose and made a pacific speech. He took +occasion to enlarge on the evils of constant warfare, and suggested +that a general reconciliation take place and that they all live in +peace. The astonished fiends could not understand any such unwarlike +procedure from _him_, and with one accord, suspecting treachery, made +straight at the intended reformer, who, of course, took to his heels. +The fiends pressed him hard as he sped over the plains of The Dalles, +and as he neared the defile he struck a Titanic blow with his tail on +the pavement--and a chasm opened up through the valley, and down rushed +the waters of the inland sea. But a battalion of the fiends still +pursued him, and again he smote with his tail and more strongly, and a +vaster cleft went up and down the valley, and a more terrific torrent +swept along. The leading fiends took the leap, but many fell into the +chasm--and still the Devil was sorely pursued. He had just time to rap +once more and with all the vigor of a despairing tail. And this time he +was safe. A third crevice, twice the width of the second, split the +rocks, riving a deeper cleft in the mountain that held back the inland +sea, making a gorge through the majestic chain of the Cascades and +opening a way for the torrent oceanward. It was the crack of doom for +the fiends. Essaying the leap, they fell far short of the edge, where +the Devil lay panting. Down they fell and were swept away by the flood; +so the whole race of fiends perished from the face of the earth. But +the Devil was in sorry case. His tail was unutterably dislocated by his +last blow; so, leaping across the chasm he had made, he went home to +rear his family thoughtfully. There were no more antagonists; so, +perhaps, after all, tails were useless. Every year he brought his +children to The Dalles and told them the terrible history of his +escape. And after a time the fires of the Cascades burned away; the +inland sea was drained and its bed became a fair and habitable land, +and still the waters gushed through the narrow crevices roaring +seaward. But the Devil had one sorrow. All his children born before the +catastrophe were crabbed, unregenerate, stiff-tailed fiends. After that +event every new-born imp wore a flaccid, invertebrate, despondent +tail--the very last insignium of ignobility. So runs the legend of The +Dalles--a shining lesson to reformers. + +Leaving The Dalles in the morning, a splendid panorama begins to unfold +on this lordly stream--"Achilles of rivers," as Winthrop called it. It +is difficult to describe the charm of this trip. Residents of the East +pronounce it superior to the Hudson, and travelers assert there is +nothing like it in the Old World. It is simply delicious to those +escaped from the heat and dust of their far-off homes to embark on this +noble stream and steam smoothly down past frowning headlands and "rocks +with carven imageries," bluffs lined with pine trees, vivid green, past +islands and falls, and distant views of snowy peaks. There is no trip +like it on the coast, and for a river excursion there is not its equal +in the United States. + +THE ISLE OF THE DEAD. + +Twelve miles below "The Dalles" there is a lonely, rugged island anchored +amid stream. It is bare, save for a white monument which rises from its +rocky breast. No living thing, no vestige of verdure, or tree, or shrub, +appears. And Captain McNulty, as he stood at the wheel and steadied the +"Queen," said: + +"That monument? It's Victor Trevet's. Of course you never heard of him, +but he was a great man, all the same, here in Oregon in the old times. +Queer he was, and no mistake. Member of one of the early legislatures; +sort of a general peacemaker; everybody went to him with their troubles, +and when he said a lawsuit didn't go, it didn't, and he always stuck up +for the Indians, and always called his own kind 'dirty mean whites.' I +used to think that was put on, and maybe it was, but anyhow that's the +way he used to talk. And a hundred times he has said to me, 'John, when +I die, I want to be buried on Memaloose Isle.' That's the 'Isle of the +Dead,' which we just passed, and has been from times away back the burial +place of the Chinook Indians. It's just full of 'em. And I says to him, +'Now, Vic., it's fame your after.' 'John,' says he, 'I'll tell you: I'm +not indifferent to glory; and there's many a big gun laid away in the +cemetery that people forget in a year, and his grave's never visited +after a few turns of the wheel; but if I rest on Memaloose Isle, I'll not +be forgotten while people travel this river. And another thing: You know, +John, the dirty, mean whites stole the Indian's burial ground and built +Portland there. Everyday the papers have an account of Mr. Bigbug's +proposed palace, and how Indian bones were turned up in the excavation. I +won't be buried alongside any such dirty, mean thieves. And I'll tell you +further, John, that it may be if I am laid away among the Indians, when +the Great Day comes I can slip in kind of easy. They ain't going to have +any such a hard time as the dirty whites will have, and maybe I won't be +noticed, and can just slide in quiet along with their crowd.' + +"And I tell you," said the honest Captain, as he swung the "Queen" around +a sharp headland, and the monument and island vanished, "he has got his +wish. He don't lay among the whites, and there isn't a day in summer when +the name of Vic. Trevet ain't mentioned, either on yon train or on a boat, +just as I am telling it to you now. When he died in San Francisco five +years ago, some of his old friends had him brought back to 'The Dalles,' +and one lovely Sunday (being an off day) we buried him on Memaloose Isle, +and then we put up the monument. His earthly immortality is safe and sure, +for that stone will stand as long as the island stays. She's eight feet +square at the base, built of the native rock right on the island, then +three feet of granite, then a ten-foot column. It cost us $1,500, and +Vic. is bricked up in a vault underneath. Yes, sir, he's there for sure +till resurrection day. Queer idea? Why, blame it all, if he thought he +could get in along with the Chinooks it's all right, ain't it? Don't want +a man to lose any chances, do you?" + +[Illustration: MULTNOMAH FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +So much has been said of this mighty river that the preconceived idea +of the tourist is of a surging flood of unknown depth rushing like a +mountain torrent. The plain facts are that the Lower Columbia is rather +a placid stream, with a sluggish current, and the channel shoals up to +eight feet, then falling to twelve, fifteen and seventeen feet, and +suddenly dropping to 100 feet of water and over. In the spring months +it will rise from twenty-five to forty feet, leaving driftwood high up +among the trees on the banks. The tide ebbs and flows at Portland from +eighteen inches to three feet, according to season, and this tidal +influence is felt, in high water, as far up as the Cascades. It is +fifty miles of glorious beauty from "The Dalles" to the Cascades. Here +we leave the steamer and take a narrow-gauge railway for six miles +around the magnificent rapids. At the foot of the Cascades we board a +twin boat, fitted up with equal taste and comfort. + +THE MIDDLE COLUMBIA. + +Swinging once more down stream we pass hundreds of charming spots, sixty +miles of changeful beauty all the way to Portland; Multnomah Falls, a +filmy veil of water falling 720 feet into a basin on the hillside and +then 130 feet to the river; past the rocky walls of Cape Horn, towering +up a thousand feet; past that curious freak of nature, Rooster Rock, and +the palisades; past Fort Vancouver, where Grant and Sheridan were once +stationed, and just at sunset leaving the Columbia, which by this time +has broadened into noble dimensions, we ascend the Willamette twelve +miles to Portland. And the memory of that day's journey down the lordly +river will remain a gracious possession for years to come. + +THE LEGEND OF THE CASCADES. + +There is a quaint Indian legend concerning the Cascades to the effect +that away back in the forgotten times there was a natural bridge across +the river--the water flowing under one arch. The Great Spirit had made +this bridge very beautiful for his red children; it was firm, solid +earth, and covered with trees and grass. The two great giants who sat +always glowering at each other from far away (Mount Adams and Mount +Hood) quarreled terribly once on a time, and the sky grew black with +their smoke and the earth trembled with their roaring. And in their +rage and fury they began to throw great stones and huge mountain +boulders at one another. This great battle lasted for days, and when +the smoke and the thunderings had passed away and the sun shone +peacefully again, the people came back once more. But there was no +bridge there. Pieces of rock made small islands above the lost bridge, +but below that the river fretted and shouted and plunged over jagged +and twisted boulders for miles down the stream, throwing the spray high +in air, madly spending its strength in treacherous whirlpools and deep +seductive currents--ever after to be wrathful, complaining, dangerous. +The stoutest warrior could not live in that terrible torrent. So the +beautiful bridge was lost, destroyed in this Titan battle, but far down +in the water could be seen many of the stately trees which the Great +Spirit caused to remain there as a token of the bridge. These he turned +to stone, and they are there even unto this day. The theory of the +scientists, of course, runs counter to the pretty legend. Science +usually does destroy poetry, and they tell us that a part of the +mountain slid into the river, thus accounting for the remnant of a +forest down in the deep water. Moreover, pieces which have been +recovered show the wood to be live timber, and not petrified, as the +poetic fiction has it. The Columbia has not changed in the centuries, +but flows in the same channel here as when in the remote ages the lava, +overflowing, cut out a course and left its pathway clear for all time. +Below the lower Cascades a sea-coral formation is found, grayish in +color and not very pretty, but showing conclusively its sea formation. +Sandstone is also at times uncovered, showing that this was made by sea +deposit before the lava flowed down upon it. This Oregon country is +said to be the largest lava district in the world. The basaltic +formations in the volcanic lands of Sicily and Italy are famous for +their richness, and Oregon holds out the same promise for agriculture. +The lava formation runs from Portland to Spokane Falls, as far north as +Tacoma, and south as far as Snake river--all basaltic formation +overlaid with an incomparably rich soil. + +[Illustration: BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union +Pacific Ry.] + +The trip from Portland by rail to "The Dalles," if the tourist should +chance not to arrive in Portland by the Union Pacific line from the +east, will be found charming. It is eighty-eight miles distant. +Multnomah Falls is reached in thirty-two miles; Bonneville, forty-one +miles, at the foot of the Cascades; five miles farther is the +stupendous government lock now in process of building around the +rapids; Hood river, sixty-six miles, where tourists leave for the +ascent of Mount Hood. It is about forty miles through a picturesque +region to the base of the mountain. Then from Hood river, an ice-cold +stream, twenty-two miles into "The Dalles," where the steamer may be +taken for the return trip. In this eighty-eight miles from Portland to +"The Dalles" there are twelve miles of trestles and bridges. The +railway follows the Columbia's brink the entire distance to within a +few miles of the city. The scenery is impressively grand; the bluffs, +if they may be so called, are bold promontories attaining majestic +heights. One timber shute, where the logs come whizzing into the river +with the velocity of a cannon-ball, is 3,328 feet long, and it is +claimed a log makes the trip in twenty seconds. + +THE LOWER COLUMBIA. + +_Second Tour_.--While the Upper Columbia abounds in scenery of wild and +picturesque beauty, the tourist must by no means neglect a trip down +the lower river from Portland to Astoria and Ilwaco, and return. The +facilities now offered by the Union Pacific in its splendid fleet of +steamers render this a delightful excursion. On a clear day, one may +enjoy at the junction of the Willamette with the Columbia a very +wonderful sight--five mountain peaks are on view: St. Helens, Mt. +Jefferson, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Rainier. St. Helens, queen of +the Cascade Range, a fair and graceful cone. Exquisite mantling snows +sweep along her shoulders toward the bristling pines. Not far from her +base, the Columbia crashes through the mountains in a magnificent +chasm, and Mt. Hood, the vigorous prince of the range, rises in a keen +pyramid some 12,000 feet. Small villages and landing-places line the +shores, almost too numerous to mention. There are, of the more +important, St. Johns, St. Helens, Columbia City, Kalama, Rainier, +Westport, Cathlamet, Knappa, and Astoria at the mouth, a busy place of +6,000 people. Salmon canneries there are without number. It is about 98 +miles by the chart from Portland to Astoria. Across the bay is the +pretty town of Ilwaco. Ft. Canby and Cape Disappointment look across to +Ft. Stevens and Point Adams. From Astoria, one may drive eighteen miles +to Clatsop Beach, famous for its clams, crab, and trout, and Ben +Holliday's hotel. But the fullest enjoyment is obtained by making a +round trip, including a lay-over at Ilwaco all night, and returning to +Portland next day, and sleeping on board the boat. A railway runs from +the town to the outside beach, a mile and a half distant. There is a +drive twenty-five miles long up this long beach to Shoal Water Bay, +which is beautiful beyond description. This district is the great +supply point for oysters, heavy shipments being made as far south as +San Francisco. Sea bathing, both here and at Clatsop Beach, is very +fine. + +The boats of the Union Pacific Ry. on the Columbia leave nothing to be +desired. The "T.J. Potter," a magnificent side-wheel steamer, made her +first trip in July, 1888. She is 235 feet long, 35 feet beam, and 10 +feet hold, with a capacity of 600 passengers. The saloon and +state-rooms are fitted with every convenience, and handsomely +decorated. The "Potter" was built entirely in Portland, and the +citizens naturally take great pride in the superb vessel. In August, +1888, this steamer made the run from her berth at Portland to the +landing stage at Astoria in five hours and thirty-one minutes. Then +there are two night passenger boats from Portland down, the "R.R. +Thompson" and the "S.G. Reed," both stern-wheelers of large size, +spacious, roomy boats, well appointed in every particular. The Thompson +is 215 feet long, 38 feet beam, and 1,158 tons measurement. In addition +to these, there are two day mail passenger and freight boats; they +handle the way traffic; the larger boats above mentioned make the run +direct from Portland to Astoria without any landings. + +SOME RANDOM NOTES. + +A mistaken idea has possessed many tourists that the Puget Sound steamers +start from Portland; they leave Tacoma for all points on the Sound, and +Tacoma is about 150 miles by rail from Portland. + +One steamer sails every twelfth day from Portland to Seattle. + +One steamer per month leaves Portland for Alaska, but she touches at Port +Townsend before proceeding north. + +One steamship leaves Tacoma for Alaska during the season of 1890, about +every fifteen days, from June to September. + +The Ocean steamers sail every fourth day from Portland to San Francisco. + +There are semi-weekly boats between Portland and Corvallis, and +tri-weekly between Portland and Salem. + +On the Sound there are three boats each way, daily (except Sunday), +between Tacoma and Seattle; one boat each way, daily (except Sunday), +between Tacoma and Victoria; one boat each way, daily (except Sunday), +between Seattle and Whatcom, and one boat, daily (except Sunday), between +Whatcom and Seminahmoo. + +Only one class of tickets is sold on the River and Sound boats; on the +Ocean steamers there are two classes: cabin and steerage. The steerage +passengers on the Ocean steamers have a dining-room separate from the +first-class passengers--on the lower deck--and are given abundance of +wholesome food, tea and coffee. + +On River and Sound boats, a ticket does not include meals and berths, but +it does on the ocean voyage, or the Alaska trip. The usual price for meals +is 50 cents, and they will be found uniformly excellent. Breakfast, lunch, +and a 6 o'clock dinner are served. + +The price of berths on these boats runs from 50 cents for a single berth +to $3 per day for the bridal chamber. + +No liquors of any kind are kept on sale on any River or Sound steamer, +but a small stock of the best brands will be found on the Ocean steamers. + +State-rooms on the River and Sound steamers are provided with one double +lower and one single upper berth. + +Passengers can, if they choose, purchase the full accommodation of a +state-room. + +The steerage capacity of each of the three Ocean steamers is about 300. + +The diagram of the Ocean steamers and the night boats to Astoria can +always be found at the Union Ticket Office of the Union Pacific Railway +in Portland, corner First and Oak Streets. + +Tourists receive more than an ordinary amount of attention on these +steamers, more than is possible to pay them on a railway train. The +pursers will be found polite and obliging, always ready to point out +places of interest and render those little attentions which go so far +toward making travel pleasant. + +On River and Sound boats, the forward cabin is generally the +smoking-room, the cabin amidships is used for a "Social Hall," and the +"After Saloon" is always the ladies' cabin. + +All Union Pacific steamers in the Ocean service are heated with steam and +lighted with electricity; all have pianos and a well-selected library. The +beds on these boats are well-nigh perfect, woven-wire springs and heavy +mattresses. They are kept scrupulously clean--the company is noted for +that--and the steerage is as neat as the main saloon. + +One hundred and fifty pounds of baggage is allowed free on board both +boats and trains. + +Boats leaving terminal points at any time between 10 p.m. and 7 a.m., +arrange so that passengers can go on board after 7 p.m. and retire to +their state-rooms, thus enjoying an unbroken night's rest. + +Sea-sickness is never met with on the Sound, and very rarely on the +voyage from Portland to San Francisco. On the Pacific, the ship is never +out of sight of land, and the sea is as smooth as a mill-pond. + +The heaviest swell encountered is going over the Columbia River Bar. The +ocean is uniformly placid during the summer months. The trip, with its +freedom from the dust, rush, and roar of a train, and the inexorable +restraint one always feels on the cars, is a delightful one, and with +larger comforts and more luxurious surroundings, one enjoys the added +pleasure of courteous and thoughtful service from the various officers of +the ship. + +Taking the "Columbia" as a sample of the class of steamships in the +Union Pacific fleet, we notice that she is 334 feet long, 2,200 +horse-power, nearly 3,000 tonnage, has 65 state-rooms, and can +accommodate 200 saloon and 200 steerage passengers. Steam heat and +electric light are used. In 1880 the first plant from Edison's factory +was put on board the "Columbia," at that time a great curiosity, she +being the first ship to use the incandescent light. + +[Illustration: CRATER LAKE, ORE. +Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +CRATER LAKE. + +Crater Lake is situate in the northwestern portion of Klamath county, +Oregon, and is best reached by leaving the Southern Pacific Railroad at +Medford, which is 328 miles south of Portland, and about ninety miles +from the lake, which can be reached by a very good wagon road. The lake +is about six miles wide by seven miles long, but it is not its size +which is its beauty or its attraction. The surface of the water in the +lake is 6,251 feet above the level of the sea, and is surrounded by +cliffs or walls from 1,000 to over 2,000 feet in height, and which are +scantily covered with timber, and which offer at but one point a way of +reaching the water. The depth of the water is very great, and it is +very transparent, and of a deep blue color. Toward the southwestern +portion of the lake is Wizard Island, 845 feet high, circular in shape, +and slightly covered with timber. In the top of this island is a +depression, or crater--the Witches' Caldron--100 feet deep, and 475 +feet in diameter, which was evidently the last smoking chimney of a +once mighty volcano, and which is now covered within, as without, with +volcanic rocks. North of this island, and on the west side of the lake, +is Llao Rock, reaching to a height of 2,000 feet above the water, and +so perpendicular that a stone may be dropped from its summit to the +waters at its base, nearly one-half mile below. + +So far below the surrounding mountains is the surface of the waters in +this lake, that the mountain breezes but rarely ripple them; and looking +from the surrounding wall, the sky and cliffs are seen mirrored in the +glassy surface, and it is with difficulty the eye can distinguish the +line where the cliffs leave off and their reflected counterfeits begin. + +OREGON NATIONAL PARK. + +Townships 27, 28, 29, 30, and 31, in Ranges 5 and 6 east of the +Willamette meridian, are asked to be set apart as the Oregon National +Park. This area contains Crater Lake and its approaches. The citizens of +Oregon unanimously petitioned the President for the reservation of this +park, and a bill in conformity with the petition passed the United States +Senate in February, 1888. + + * * * * * + +_Third Tour_.--From Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma. + +WASHINGTON + +Is 340 miles long by about 240 wide. The first actual settlement by +Americans was made at Tumwater in 1845. Prior to this, the country was +known only to trappers and fur traders. Territorial government was +organized in 1853, and Washington was admitted as a State, November, +1889. The State is almost inexhaustibly rich in coal and lumber, and +has frequently been called the "Pennsylvania of the Pacific Coast." The +precious metals are also found in abundance in many districts. The +yield of wheat is prodigious. Apples, pears, apricots, plums, prunes, +peaches, cherries, grapes, and all berries flourish in the greatest +profusion. Certain it is that there is no other locality where trees +bear so early and surely as here, and where the fruit is of greater +excellence, and where there are so few drawbacks. At the Centennial +Exposition, Washington Territory fruit-tables were the wonder of +visitors and an attractive feature of the grand display. This Territory +carried off seventeen prizes in a competitive contest where +thirty-three States were represented. + +It is a pleasant journey of 150 miles through the pine forests from +Portland to Tacoma. Any one of the splendid steamers of the Union +Pacific may be taken for a trip to Victoria. Leaving Tacoma in the +morning, we sail over that noble sheet of water, Puget Sound. The hills +on either side are darkly green, the Sound widening slowly as we go. +Seattle is reached in three hours, a busy town of 35,000 people, full +of vim, push, and energy. Twenty million dollars' worth of property +went up in flame and smoke in Seattle's great fire of June 6, 1889. The +ashes were scarcely cold when her enthusiastic citizens began to build +anew, better, stronger, and more beautiful than before. A city of +brick, stone, and iron has arisen, monumental evidence of the energy, +pluck, and perseverance of the people, and of their fervent faith in +the future of Seattle. Then Port Townsend, with its beautiful harbor +and gently sloping bluffs, "the city of destiny," beyond all doubt, of +any of the towns on the Sound. Favored by nature in many ways, Townsend +has the finest roadstead and the best anchorage ground in these waters, +and this must tell in the end, when advantages for sea trade are +considered. Victoria, B.C., is reached in the evening, and we sleep +that night in Her Majesty's dominions. The next day may be spent very +pleasantly in driving and walking about the city, a handsome town of +14,000 people. + +[Illustration: CASCADES, FROM THE OREGON SHORE, COLUMBIA RIVER. On the +Union Pacific Ry.] + +A thorough system of macadamized roads radiates from Victoria, +furnishing about 100 miles of beautiful drives. Many of these drives +are lined with very handsome suburban residences, surrounded with lawns +and parks. Esquimalt, near Victoria, has a fine harbor. This is the +British naval station where several iron-clads are usually stationed. +There is also an extensive dry-dock, hewn out of the solid rock, +capacious enough to receive large vessels. + +In the evening after dinner, one can return to the steamer and take +possession of a stateroom, for the boat leaves at four in the morning. +When breakfast time comes we are well on our return trip, and moving +past Port Townsend again. The majestic straits of Fuca, through which +we have passed, are well worth a visit; it is a taste of being at sea +without any discomfort, for the water is without a ripple. As we steam +homeward there is a vision which has been described for all time by a +master hand. "One becomes aware of a vast, white shadow in the water. +It is a giant mountain dome of snow in the depths of tranquil blue. The +smoky haze of an Oregon August hid all the length of its lesser ridges +and left this mighty summit based upon uplifting dimness. Only its +splendid snows were visible high in the unearthly regions of clear, +noonday sky. Kingly and alone stood this majesty without any visible +comrade, though far to the north and south there were isolated +sovereigns. This regal gem the Christians have dubbed Mount Rainier, +but more melodious is its Indian name, 'Tacoma.'" + +A LEGEND OF TACOMA. + +Theodore Winthrop, in his own brilliant way, tells a quaint legend of +Tacoma, as related to him by a frowsy Siwash at Nisqually. "Tamanous," +among the native Indians of this section, is a vague and +half-personified type of the unknown and mysterious forces of Nature. +There is the one all-pervading Tamanous, but there are a thousand +emanations, each one a tamanous with a small "t." Each Indian has his +special tamanous, who thus becomes "the guide, philosopher, and friend" +of every Siwash. The tamanous, or totem, types himself as a salmon, a +beaver, an elk, a canoe, a fir-tree, and so on indefinitely. In some of +its features this legend resembles strongly the immortal story of Rip +Van Winkle; it may prove interesting as a study in folk-lore. + +"Avarice, O, Boston tyee!" quoth the Siwash, studying me with dusky +eyes, "is a mighty passion. Know you that our first circulating medium +was shells, a small perforated shell not unlike a very opaque quill +toothpick, tapering from the middle, and cut square at both ends. We +string it in many strands and hang it around the neck of one we +love--namely, each man his own neck. And with this we buy what our +hearts desire. Hiaqua, we call it, and he who has most hiaqua is wisest +and best of all the dwellers on the Sound. + +"Now, in old times there dwelt here an old man, a mighty hunter and +fisherman. And he worshipped hiaqua. And always this old man thought +deeply and communed with his wisdom, and while he waited for elk or +salmon he took advice within himself from his demon--he talked with +tamanous. And always his question was, 'How may I put hiaqua in my +purse?' But never had Tamanous revealed to him the secret. There loomed +Tacoma, so white and glittering that it seemed to stare at him very +terribly and mockingly, and to know of his shameful avarice, and how it +led him to take from starving women their cherished lip and nose jewels +of hiaqua, and give them in return tough scraps of dried elk-meat and +salmon. His own peculiar tamanous was the elk. One day he was hunting +on the sides of Tacoma, and in that serene silence his tamanous began +to talk to his soul. 'Listen!' said tamanous--and then the great secret +of untold wealth was revealed to him. He went home and made his +preparations, told his old, ill-treated squaw he was going for a long +hunt, and started off at eventide. The next night he camped just below +the snows of Tacoma, but sunrise and he struck the summit together, for +there, tamanous had revealed to him, was hiaqua--hiaqua that should +make him the greatest and richest of his tribe. He looked down and saw +a hollow covered with snow, save at the centre, where a black lake lay +deep in a well of purple rock, and at one end of the lake were three +large stones or monuments. Down into the crater sprang the miser, and +the morning sunshine followed him. He found the first stone shaped like +a salmon head; the second like a kamas root, and the third, to his +great joy, was the carven image of an elk's head. This was his own +tamanous, and right joyous was he at the omen, so taking his elk-horn +pick he began to dig right sturdily at the foot of the monument. At the +sound of the very first blow he made, thirteen gigantic otters came out +of the black lake and, sitting in a circle, watched him. And at every +thirteenth blow they tapped the ground with their tails in concert The +miser heeded them not, but labored lustily for hours. At last, +overturning a thin scale of rock, he found a square cavity filled to +the brim with hiaqua. + +"He was a millionaire. + +"The otters retired to a respectful distance, recognizing him as a +favorite of Tamanous. + +"He reveled in the treasure, exulting. Deep as he could plunge his arm, +there was still more hiaqua below. It was strung upon elk sinews, fifty +shells on a string. But he saw the noon was passed, so he prepared to +depart. He loaded himself with countless strings of hiaqua, by fifties +and hundreds, so that he could scarcely stagger along. Not a string did +he hang on the tamanous of the elk, or the salmon, or the kamas--not +one--but turned eagerly toward his long descent. At once all the otters +plunged back into the lake and began to beat the waters with their tails; +a thick, black mist began to rise threateningly. Terrible are the storms +in the mountains--and Tamanous was in this one. Instantly the fierce +whirlwind overtook the miser. He was thrown down and flung over icy +banks, but he clung to his precious burden. Utter night was around him, +and in every crash and thunder of the gale was a growing undertone which +he well knew to be the voice of Tamanous. Floating upon this undertone +were sharper tamanous voices, shouting and screaming, always sneeringly, +'Ha, ha, hiaqua!--ha, ha, ha!' Whenever the miser attempted to continue +his descent the whirlwind caught him and tossed him hither and thither, +flinging him into a pinching crevice, burying him to the eyes in a snow +drift, throwing him on jagged boulders, or lacerating him on sharp lava +jaws. But he held fast to his hiaqua. The blackness grew ever deeper and +more crowded with perdition; the din more impish, demoniac, and devilish; +the laughter more appalling; and the miser more and more exhausted with +vain buffeting. He at last thought to propitiate exasperated Tamanous, +and threw away a string of hiaqua. But the storm was renewed blacker, +louder, crueler than before. String by string he parted with his +treasure, until at the last, sorely wounded, terrified, and weak, with a +despairing cry, he cast from him the last vestige of wealth, and sank +down insensible. + +[Illustration: ROOSTER ROCK, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +"It seemed a long slumber to him, but at last he woke. He was upon the +very spot whence he started at morning. He felt hungry, and made a +hearty breakfast of the chestnut-like bulbs of the kamas root, and took +a smoke. Reflecting on the events of yesterday, he became aware of an +odd change in his condition. He was not bruised and wounded, as he +expected, but very stiff only, and his joints creaked like the creak of +a lazy paddle on the rim of a canoe. His hair was matted and reached a +yard down his back. 'Tamanous,' thought the old man. But chiefly he was +conscious of a mental change. He was calm and content. Hiaqua and +wealth seemed to have lost their charm for him. Tacoma, shining like +gold and silver and precious stones of gayest lustre, seemed a benign +comrade and friend. All the outer world was cheerful, and he thought +he had never wakened to a fresher morning. He rose and started on +his downward way, but the woods seemed strangely transformed since +yesterday; just before sunset he came to the prairie where his lodge +used to be; he saw an old squaw near the door crooning a song; she was +decked with many strings of hiaqua and costly beads. It was his wife; +and she told him he had been gone many, many years--she could not tell +how many; that she had remained faithful and constant to him, and +distracted her mind from the bitterness of sorrow by trading in kamas +and magic herbs, and had thus acquired a genteel competence. But little +cared the sage for such things; he, was rejoiced to be at home and at +peace, and near his own early gains of hiaqua and treasure buried in +a place of security. He imparted whatever he possessed--material +treasures or stores of wisdom and experience--freely to all the land. +Every dweller came to him for advice how to spear the salmon, chase the +elk, or propitiate Tamanous. He became the great medicine man of the +Siwashes and a benefactor to his tribe and race. Within a year after he +came down from his long nap on the side of Tacoma, a child, my father, +was born to him. The sage lived many years, revered and beloved, and on +his death-bed told this history to my father as a lesson and a warning. +My father dying, told it to me. But I, alas! have no son; I grow old, +and lest this wisdom perish from the earth, and Tamanous be again +obliged to interpose against avarice, I tell the tale to thee, O Boston +tyee. Mayst thou and thy nation not disdain this lesson of an earlier +age, but profit by it and be wise!" + +So far the Siwash recounted his legend without the palisades of Fort +Nisqually, and motioning, in expressive pantomime, at the close, that he +was dry with big talk and would gladly "wet his whistle." + +The town of Tacoma contains about 15,000 inhabitants, and is in a highly +prosperous condition. From here one may start on the grand Alaskan tour, +winding up through all the wonders of sound and strait, bay and ocean, to +the far North summerland--a trip of most entrancing interest. The return +from Tacoma to Portland may be made by either rail or boat. + +So much has already been said in preceding pages about Puget Sound that +it would seem the subject might be somewhat overdone. But it still +remains to be said that justice can never be done to the scenic glories +of this beautiful inland sea. The views from different points, and from +almost every point on the Sound, are of sublime grandeur. On the east are +the Cascade Mountains, ranging from 5,000 to 14,444 feet in height, Mount +Rainier for Tacoma, (as it is also called) being of the latter altitude, +and only third in height of the mountains of the United States. On the +west are the Olympic Mountains, the highest peaks of which reach up to +8,000 feet. Both ranges, brilliantly snow-crowned, are within view at the +same time from various points, and the scenery in its entirety, with its +continual changefulness and features of sublimity, can not be excelled. +Strangers and travelers who have visited every part of the world never +leave the deck of the steamers while going through the waters of the +Sound country. In noting a single feature, Mount Rainier, Senator George +F. Edmunds wrote as follows: "I have been through the Swiss mountains, +and am compelled to own that there is no comparison between the finest +effects exhibited there and what is seen in approaching this grand and +isolated mountain. I would be willing to go 500 miles again to see that +scene. The Continent is yet in ignorance of what will be one of the +grandest show places, as well as sanitariums. If Switzerland is rightly +called the play-ground of Europe, I am satisfied that around the base of +Mt. Rainier will become a prominent place of resort, not for America +only, but for the world besides, with thousands of sites for building +purposes that are nowhere excelled for the grandeur of the view that can +be obtained from them, with topographical features that would make the +most perfect system of drainage both possible and easy, and with a most +agreeable and health-giving climate." + +A more enthusiastic writer says: "Puget Sound scenery is the grandest +scenery in the world. One has here in combination the sublimity of +Switzerland, the picturesqueness of the Rhine, the rugged beauty of +Norway, the breezy variety of the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence, +or the Hebrides of the North Sea, the soft, rich-toned skies of Italy, +the pastoral landscape of England, with velvet meadows and magnificent +groves, massed with floral bloom, and the blending tints and bold color +of the New England Indian summer. Features with which nothing within the +vision of another city can be placed in comparison are the Olympic range +of mountains in front of Seattle, and the sublime snow peaks of the +Rainier, Baker, Adams, and St. Helens, with their glaciers and robes of +eternal white, and the great falls of the Snoqualmie, 280 feet high, near +by." + +[Illustration: MOUNT ST. HELENS, WASHINGTON, FROM NEAR MOUTH OF THE +WILLAMETTE RIVER. Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +The geography and topography of this sheet are alone a wonder and a +study. Glance upon the map. The elements of earth and water seem to +have struggled for dominion one over the other. The Strait of Juan de +Fuca and the Gulf of Georgia to the south narrow into Admiralty Inlet; +the inlet penetrates the very heart of the Territory, cutting the land +into most grotesque shapes, circling and twisting into a hundred minor +inlets, into which flow a hundred rivers, fed in their turn by myriads +of smaller creeks and bayous--a veritable network of lakes, streams, +peninsulas, and islands which, with the mountain ranges backing the +landscapes on either hand, can not fail to be picturesque in the +extreme. Here on the placid bosom of this inland sea, the pleasure +seeker can enjoy all the delights and exhilarating influences of ocean +travel without its inconveniences. No sea sickness, no proneness to +reflect on "to be or not to be," but, amid the bracing breezes, the +steady, easy glide of the commodious steamer over pleasant waters, +takes him through scenes as fair as the poet's brightest dreams. This +"Mediterranean of the Pacific" throughout its length and breadth is +adorned with heavily-wooded and fantastically-formed islands. The giant +firs are the tallest and straightest in the world. Here the "Great +Eastern" came for her masts, and here thousands of ships obtain their +spars yearly. + +To repeat, the scenery is indeed something unsurpassed. A ride over these +placid waters, in and out, around rocky headlands, among woody mountains, +along beautiful beaches and graceful tongues of velvety meadows--all +'neath the shadows of towering, snow-clad peaks, is a delight worth days +of travel to experience. It enraptures the artist and enthuses even +ordinarily prosy folks. There is no single feature wanting to make of +such places as Tacoma, Seattle, and Port Townsend, the most delightful +and agreeable watering places in the world. Surrounded by magnificent and +picturesque scenery, with beautiful drives and lovely bays for yachting +purposes, with splendid fishing and sport of every description to be had, +with a climate that would charm a misanthrope, why should they not become +the favorite resorts on the Great West Coast? These facts led to the +building of the magnificent Hotel Tacoma, at a cost of a quarter of a +million dollars. Other such caravansaries will follow, and in time Puget +Sound will be famous the world over for its incomparable attractions for +the health and pleasure seeker. + +The average traveler has but a faint idea of the wonderful resources of +this grand empire. Puget Sound has about 1,800 miles of shore line, and +all along this long stretch is one vast and almost unbroken forest of +enormous trees. The forests are so vast that, although the saw-mills have +been ripping 500,000,000 feet of lumber out of them every year for the +past ten years, the spaces made by these inroads seem no more than garden +patches. An official estimate places the amount of standing timber in that +area at 500,000,000,000 feet, or a thousand years' supply, even at the +enormous rate the timber is now being felled and sawed. + +In the vicinity of Olympia, the capital of Washington, are a number of +popular resorts for sportsmen and campers--beautiful lakes filled with +voracious trout, and streams alive with the speckled mountain beauties. +The forests abound in bear and deer, while grouse, pheasants, quail, and +water-fowl afford fine sport to the hunter of small game. + +THE NEW EMPIRE OF EASTERN WASHINGTON. + +The recent extensions of the Union Pacific System have aided in the most +important way the development of the richest and most fertile lands of +Eastern Washington. The great plains of the Upper Columbia, stretching +from the river away to the far north, are incomparably rich, the soil of +great depth and wondrous fertility, rainless harvests, and a luxuriance +of farm and garden produce which is almost tropical in its wealth. This +favored region has been for years known as the + +PALOUSE COUNTRY, + +And is reached from Portland via Pendleton, on the main line of the Union +Pacific Ry. From Pendleton to Spokane Falls on the north the soil is rich +beyond belief; a black, loamy deposit so deep that it seems well-nigh +inexhaustible. This heavy soil predominates in the valleys, and while the +uplands are not so rich, still immense crops of wheat are raised. For +hundreds of miles on this new division of the Union Pacific the country +is a perfect garden land of wheat and fruit, and these farms are often of +mammoth proportions. Here are 13,000,000 acres of land possessing all the +requirements and advantages of climate and soil for the making of one +vast wheat-field. The enormous yield of 7,000,000 bushels of wheat has +been harvested in one valley. + +The authentic figures of the crop yield in this splendid country seem +almost incredible. Fifty thousand bushels of wheat have been raised on +1,000 acres of land. As low as 35 bushels and as high as 74-1/4 bushels +of wheat to the acre have been harvested in this section. The average +covered seems to be from 47 to 55 bushels per acre, and no fertilizers +of any sort being required. The berry in its full maturity is very +solid, weighing from 65 to 69 pounds per bushel, this being from five +to nine pounds over standard weight. While wheat is the staple product, +oats are also grown, the yield being very heavy. Rye, barley, and flax +are also successfully cultivated. Clover, bunch-grass, and alfalfa grow +finely. + +In the growing of fruits and vegetables this grand empire of Eastern +Washington is quite unsurpassed. At one of the recent agricultural +fairs a farmer exhibited 109 varieties of fruits, vegetables, and +cereals. These included the best qualities of Yellow Nansemond sweet +potatoes, mammoth melons of all varieties, eggplant, sorghum and syrup +cane, broom-corn, tobacco, grapes, cotton, peanuts, and many other +things, some of which do not attain to so high a degree of excellence +elsewhere farther north than the Carolinas. Peaches, apples, and prunes +of superior quality delighted the eye. Peaches had been marketed +continuously, from, the same orchards, from the 15th of July to the +15th of October. There were hanging in the pavilion diplomas awarded at +the New Orleans Exposition to citizens in this valley for exhibits of +the best qualities and greatest varieties of corn, wheat, oats, barley, +and hops. + +The advantage to the farmer of rainless harvesting months is obvious. The +wheat is all harvested by headers, leaving the straw on the ground for its +enrichment. Thus binding, hauling, and sacking are largely dispensed with. +The grain, when threshed, is piled on the ground in jute sacks, saving the +expense of granaries and hauling to and from them. These jute sacks cost +for each bushel of grain about 3 cents, which is far less than farmers +elsewhere are subjected to in hauling their grain to and from granaries +and through a system of elevators until it reaches shipboard. + +Here, as well as in Western Washington, most vegetables grow to an +enormous size, and are of superior quality when compared with the same +varieties grown in the East. Those kinds that require much heat, as +melons, tobacco, peppers, egg-plants, etc., grow to great perfection. The +root crops--beets, carrots, parsnips, potatoes, turnips, etc.--yield +prodigiously on the fertile bottom-land soils, without much care besides +ordinary cultivation. The table beet soon gets too large for the +dinner-pot. It is nothing unusual for a garden beet to weigh ten pounds, +and they often grow to eighteen or twenty pounds' weight. Mangel wurzel, +the stock beet, sometimes grows to forty and fifty pounds' weight, if +given room and proper cultivation. They may easily be made to produce +twenty-five tons per acre on good soil. All other vegetables, such as +parsnips, carrots, peas, beans, tomatoes, onions, cabbages, celery, and +cauliflower, are perfectly at home on every farm of Eastern Washington. +Market gardening is becoming quite an important pursuit, and holds out +particularly high inducements to the farmer, because of the superb market +now afforded by the non-producing mineral and timber regions, easily +accessible in this and adjacent Territories. + +There are over 2,000 square miles of arable land in this magnificent +region, and there has never been a crop failure since its settlement. +Outside of Government lands prices range at from $4 to $10 per acre for +unimproved, and from $12 to $20 for improved lands. + +[Illustration: HORSE TAIL FALLS, ORE. +On the Union Pacific Ry.] + +Along the line of Union Pacific in this grand new empire will be found +many energetic, thriving young towns, all possessing those social and +educational facilities which are now a part of every Western village. +Pendleton, on the main line, is a wide-awake, bustling young city, +situated in a fine agricultural district. Walla Walla, Athena, Weston, +Waitsburg, Dayton, Pullman, Garfield, Latah, Tekoa, Colfax, Moscow, +Farmington, and Rockford are all thriving towns, and are already good +distributing centers. The last-named town enjoys the advantage of being +in the center of a fine lumber district, and within a circuit of five +miles from Rockford there are ten saw-mills, besides an inexhaustible +supply of mica. Crossing the border into Idaho, rich silver and lead +mines are found along the Coeur d'Alene River. + +Rockford is twenty-four miles from Spokane Falls, and has about 1,000 +population; its elevation is 2,440 feet. Four miles distant is the +boundary of the Coeur d'Alene Reservation, a lovely tract, thirty by +seventy miles in extent, embracing beautiful Coeur d'Alene Lake and the +three rivers, St. Joseph, St. Marys, and Coeur d'Alene, which empty +into it. There about 250 Indians on this reservation, and they enjoy +the proud distinction of being the only tribe who refuse Government +aid. They have been offered the usual rations, but preferred to remain +independent. They live in houses, farm quite extensively, and use all +kinds of improved farm machinery; many of them are quite wealthy. The +lake is one of the prettiest sheets of water on the continent; its +waters are full of salmon, and in the heavy pine woods are many +varieties of game, from quail to grizzly bear and elk. The town of +Rockford will in the near future assume importance as a tourist point, +both from its own healthy and picturesque location, and its nearness to +Coeur d'Alene Lake. A Government Commission is now at work on a +settlement with the Indians, whereby the whole or a part of this noble +domain will be thrown open to the public. The peculiar attractions of +Coeur d'Alene must in a short time render it a much sought for resort. + +SPOKANE FALLS + +Is one of those miracles possible only in the alert, aggressive West. +When Mr. Hayes was inaugurated it was a blank wilderness. Not a single +civilized being lived within a hundred miles of it. One day in 1878 a +white man came along in a "bull team," saw the wild rapids and the mighty +falls of the Spokane River, reflected on the history of St. Paul and +Minneapolis with their little Falls of St. Anthony, looked at the tide of +immigration just turning toward the farther Northwest, and concluded he +would sit right down where he was and wait for a city to grow around him. +This far-sighted pioneer is still living within earshot of those rumbling +falls, and they make a cheerful music for him. The city is there with +him, 22,000 people, and he can draw a check to-day good for $1,000,000. +For several years his eyes fell on nothing but gravel-beds and foamy +waters. Now, as he looks around, he sees mills and factories, railroad +lines to the north, south, east, and west, churches, theatres, +school-houses, costly dwellings and stores, paved streets, and all that +makes living easy and comfortable. The greater part of this has come +within his vision since 1883. But even then there was quite a village. +After this pioneer had spent a lonely year or two on his homestead, two +other men came along. They were friends, who, upon an outing, had chanced +to meet. They were captivated by the waterfall, and by what the pioneer +told them of the fine fanning lands in the adjacent country, and they +offered each to take a third of his holding. Then they began to +advertise, and to place adventurous farmers on homestead claims. They +were wise in their day and generation, and they worked harder to fill the +country with grain-producers than to sell real estate around the falls. +They soon had their reward. The merchants were quickly provided with +store-houses, rental values were kept low, every inducement was offered +that could possibly stimulate building activity, and in three years the +farming country was made to perceive that Spokane was its natural point +of entry and of shipment. The turbulent waters of the Spokane River, a +clear and beautiful mountain stream, were caught above the falls, and +directed wherever the factories and mills that had been established above +them required their services. Four large flouring-mills quickly took +advantage of the rich opportunity growing out of this unique situation. +From two enormous agricultural areas they are enabled to draw their +supplies of grain, flour, therefore, being manufactured for the farmers +more cheaply at Spokane: than anywhere else. This circumstance alone +exercised a large influence in giving the new town a hold upon the +country districts. These constitute more than a region--they are really a +grand division of the State, and form what is known as the Great Plain of +the Columbia River. + +THE COEUR D'ALENE MINES + +Have reached a high and profitable state of development. These mines +extend over a comparatively limited area. They are close together, and +their ores, producing gold, silver, and lead, are all similar. Their +output for the last three years has been quite remarkable, and has placed +the Coeur d'Alene district among the foremost lead-producing regions in +the country. Gold, associated with iron, and treated by the free-milling +process, is largely found in the northern part of the district, but the +greatest amount of tonnage is derived from the southern country, where +the Galena silver mines, a dozen or more in number, have been discovered. +That minerals in large quantity existed in this country has been known for +years. But the want of railroad facilities for a long while prevented any +serious effort to get at them. The matter of transportation is now laid +at rest, and within the last three years $1,000,000 has been spent in +development. The returns have already more than justified the investment. + +Tributary to Spokane, and reached by the various railroads now in +operation, are five other mining districts, at Colville, Okanagan, +Kootenai, Metaline, and Pend d'Oreille. They are in various stages of +development, but their wealth and availability have been clearly +ascertained. Spokane's population, in a degree greater than that of most +all these new cities, consists of young men and young women from the New +England and Middle States. They have enjoyed a remarkable and wholly +uninterrupted period of prosperity. Some of them have grown quickly and +immensely rich from real estate operations, but the great majority have +yet to realize on their investments because of the large sacrifices they +have made in building up the city. They are to-day in an admirable +position. As they have made money they have spent it; spent it in street +railroads, in the laying out of drives, in the building of comfortable +houses, in the establishment of electrical plants, and in a large number +of local improvements, every one of which has borne its part in making +the city attractive. + +WONDERFUL VITALITY. + +It has been well said of Spokane Falls, that "it was another +fire-devastated city that did not seem to know it was hurt." + +If Washington can stand the loss of millions of dollars in its four great +fires of the year, at Cheney, Ellensburg, Seattle, and Spokane, it is the +strongest evidence that its recuperative powers have solid backing. It +does seem to stand the loss, and actually thrive under it. + +The great fire at Spokane Falls on the 4th of August, 1889, burned most +of the business portion of the city. Four hundred and fifty houses of +brick, stone, and wood were destroyed, entailing a loss, according to the +computation of the local agent of R.G. Dun & Co., of about $4,500,000. + +The insurance in the burned district amounted to $2,600,000. + +No people were ever in better condition to meet disaster, and none ever +met it with braver hearts or with quicker and more resolute determination +to survive the blow. + +The city was in the midst of a period of marvelous prosperity. Its +population was increasing rapidly, many fine buildings were in process of +construction, its trade was extending over a vast region of country which +was being penetrated by new railroads centering within its limits, and +there were flowing to it the rich fruits of half a dozen prosperous +mining districts. + +[Illustration: ONEONTA GORGE, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +Its working people were all employed at good wages, and money was +abundant with all classes. + +Hardly had the sun of the day following the fire risen upon the scene of +smoking desolation, when preparations began for rebuilding. It was felt +at once that the city would be rebuilt more substantially and more +handsomely than before. + +The rebuilding of Spokane commenced on a very extensive scale; the city +will be entirely restored within twelve months, and far more attractively +than ever before. The class of buildings erected are of a very superior +character. The new Opera House has been modeled after the Broadway +Theatre, New York; the new Hotel Spokane, a structure creditable not only +to the city, but to the entire Pacific Northwest; five National Bank +buildings, at a cost of $100,000 each; upon the burned district have +arisen buildings solid in substance, and beautiful architecturally, +varying from five to seven stories in height, and costing all the way +from $60,000 to $300,000. This sturdy young giant of the North arises +from her ashes stronger, more attractive, more substantial, than before. +And there is abundant reason for solid faith in the future of Spokane +Falls. + +It is the metropolis of a region 200,000 square miles in extent, +including 50,000 square miles of Washington, or all that portion east of +the Cascade Mountains, more than half of Idaho, the northern and eastern +portions of Oregon, a large part of Montana, and as much of British +Columbia as would make a State as large as New York. + +It is the distributing point for the Coeur d'Alene, the Colville, the +Kootenai, and the Okanagan mining districts, all of which are in a +prosperous condition, and all of which are yielding rich and growing +tributes of trade. + +It has adjacent to it the finest wheat-growing country in the world, +producing from 30 to 60 bushels per acre. + +It has adjacent to it a country equally rich in the production of fruits +and vegetables. + +It has adjacent to it the finest meadow lands between the Cascade and +Rocky Mountains. + +It has adjacent to it extensive grazing lands, on which are hundreds of +thousands of cattle, sheep, and horses. + +It has, adjacent to it, on Lakes Pend d'Oreille and Coeur d'Alene, +inexhaustible quantities of white pine, yellow pine, cedar and tamarack, +the manufacturing of which into lumber is one of the important industries +of the city, and a source of great future income. + +It has a power in the falls of the Spokane River second to none in the +United States, and capable of supplying construction room and power for +300 different mills and manufactories. The entire electric lighting plant +of the city, the cable railway system, the electric railway system, the +machinery for the city water works, and all the mills and factories of +the city--the amount of wheat which was last year ground into flour +exceeding 20,000 tons--are now operated by the power from the falls. One +company alone, the Washington Water Power Company, having a capital of +$1,000,000, is now spending upward of $300,000 in the construction of +flumes and other improvements for the accommodation of new mills and +factories. + +Most fortunately for the city, all the milling properties and +improvements on the falls and along the river were saved from the fire. + +The city has a water-works system which cost nearly half a million +dollars, and which is capable of supplying 12,000,000 gallons daily, or +as much as the supply of Minneapolis when it had a population of 100,000, +or as much as the present supply of Denver with a population of 120,000, +and more than the City of Portland, Oregon, with a population of 60,000. + +A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SPOKANE FALLS. + +It requires no very profound knowledge of Western geography, no very +lengthy study of the State of Washington, to enable anyone to understand +without difficulty some of the minor reasons why Spokane Falls should +become a great and important city, the metropolis of a vast surrounding +country. A glance at the map will show the mountain range that extends up +through the Idaho Panhandle, and then along the British Columbia frontier, +to the east and north of the city. These mountains are incalculably rich +in ores of all kinds, and would amply suffice to make a Denver of Spokane +Falls, even if she had no other natural resources to draw from. The +Spokane River is the outlet of Lake Coeur d'Alene, a sheet of water sixty +miles by six, which is fed by the St. Joseph, St. Mary and Coeur d'Alene +Rivers, and which flows through a vast plain until it empties its waters +into the Columbia, the Mississippi of the Pacific Coast. From its point +of junction with the Spokane, the Columbia makes a big bend in its course +until the Snake River is reached, when it turns once more westward, and +flows on to empty into the Pacific Ocean. South of the city, stretching +westward for some distance from the mountains, and extending in a +southerly direction to the Clearwater and Snake Rivers, is a vast country +comprising millions of acres, through which the Palouse River and its +tributary streams meander, and which is known as the Palouse Valley, a +country of unlimited agricultural resources. In the center of all this +immense territory is located Spokane Falls, like the hub in the center of +a wheel. The word immense is not used unwittingly, for the mountains and +plains and valleys make up a country that in Europe would be called a +nation, and in New England would form a State. Only a far-off corner of +the Union, it may seem to some readers, yet there are powerful empires +which possess less natural resources than it can call its own. The city +itself lies on both sides of the Spokane River, at the point where that +stream, separated by rocky islands into five separate channels, rushes +onward and downward, at first being merely a series of rapids, and then +tumbling over the rocks in a number of beautiful and useful waterfalls, +until the several streams unite once again for a final plunge of sixty +feet, making a fall of 157 feet in the distance of half a mile. This +waterfall, with its immense power, would alone make a city; engineers +have estimated its force at 90,000 horse-power, and it is so distributed +that it can be easily utilized. + +[Illustration: A FISH WHEEL, COLUMBIA RIVER. On the Union Pacific Ry.] + + * * * * * + +_Fourth Tour_.--To + +ALASKA. + +The native islanders called the mainland "Al-ay-ek-sa," which signifies +"great country," and the word has been corrupted into "Alaska." This +immense empire, it will be remembered, was sold by Russia to the United +States October 18, 1867, for $7,500,000. The country was discovered by +Vitus Behring in 1741. Alaska has an area of 578,000 square miles, and is +nearly one-fifth as large as all the other States and Territories +combined. It is larger than twelve States the size of New York. + +The best time to visit Alaska is from May to September. The latter month +is usually lovely, and the sea beautifully smooth, but the days begin to +grow short. The trip occupies about twenty-five days. + +As the rainfall in Alaska is usually very large, it naturally follows +that an umbrella is a convenient companion. A gossamer for a lady and a +mackintosh for a gentleman, and heavy shoes, and coarse, warm and +comfortable clothing for both should be provided. + +There are no "Palace" hotels in Alaska. One will have no desire to remain +over there a trip. The tourist goes necessarily when and where the steamer +goes, will have an opportunity to see all there is of note or worth seeing +in Southeastern Alaska. The steamer sometimes goes north as far as +Chilcat, say up to about the 58th degree of north latitude. The pleasure +is not so much in the stopping as in the going. One is constantly passing +through new channels, past new islands, opening up new points of interest, +until finally a surfeit of the grand and magnificent in nature is reached. + +A correspondent of a western journal signing himself "Emerald" has +written a description of this Alaskan tour in September, 1888. It is so +charmingly done, so fresh, so vivid, and so full of interesting detail, +that it is given herewith entire: + +ON STEAMSHIP "GEORGE W. ELDER," + +PUGET SOUND, September, 1888. + +We have all thought we were fairly appreciative of the wealth and wonders +of Uncle Sam's domain. At Niagara we have gloried in the belief that all +the cataracts of other lands were tame; but we changed our mind when we +stood on the brink of Great Shoshone Falls. In Yellowstone the proudest +thought was that all the world's other similar wonders were commonplace; +and at Yosemite's Inspiration Point the unspeakable thrill of awe and +delight was richly heightened by the grand idea that there was no such +majesty or glory beyond either sea. But after all this, we now know that +it yet remains for the Alaskan trip to rightly round out one's +appreciation and admiration of the size and grandeur of our native land. + +Some of our most delighted _voyageurs_ are from Portland, Maine. When +they had journeyed some 1,500 miles to Omaha they imagined themselves +at least half way across our continent. Then, when they had finished +that magnificent stretch of some 1,700 miles more from Omaha to +Portland, Oregon, in the palace cars of the Union Pacific, they were +quite sure of it. Of course, they confessed a sense of mingled +disappointment and eager anticipation when they learned that they were +yet less than half way. They learned what is a fact--that the extreme +west coast of Alaska is as far west of Sitka as Portland, Maine, is +east of Portland, Oregon, and the further fact that San Francisco lacks +4,000 mile's of being as far west as Uncle Sam's "Land's End," at +extreme Western Alaska. It is a great country; great enough to contain +one river--the Yukon--about as large as the Mississippi, and a coast +line about twice as long as all the balance of the United States. It is +twelve times as large as the State of New York, with resources that +astonish every visitor, and a climate not altogether bad, as some would +have it. The greatest trouble is that during the eighteen years it has +been linked to our chain of Territories it has been treated like a +discarded offspring or outcast, cared for more by others than its +lawful protector. But, like many a refugee, it is carving for itself a +place which others will yet envy. But, to + +OUR TRIP. + +There are seven in our party, mainly from Chicago. After a week of +delightful mountaineering at Idaho Springs, in Platte Cañon, and other +Union Pacific resorts in Colorado, we indulged in that delicious plunge +at Garfield Beach, Salt Lake, and, en route to Portland over the Union +Pacific Ry., quaffed that all but nectar at Soda Springs, Idaho, and +dropped off a day to take a peep, at Shoshone Falls, which, in all +seriousness, have attractions of which even our great Niagara can not +boast. We found that glorious dash down through the palisades of the +Columbia, and the sail, through the entrancing waterways of Puget Sound, +a fitting prelude to our recent Alaskan journey. + +The Alaskan voyage is like a continuous dream of pleasure, so placid and +quiet are the waters of the landlocked sea and so exquisitely beautiful +the environment. The route keeps along the east shore of Vancouver Island +its entire length, through the Gulf of Georgia, Johnstone strait, and out +into Queen Charlotte Sound, where is felt the first swell of old ocean, +and our staunch steamship "Elder" was rocked in its cradle for about four +hours. Oftentimes we seemed to be bound by mountains on every side, with +no hope of escape; but the faithful deck officer on watch would give his +orders in clear, full tones that brought the bow to some passage leading +to the great beyond. In narrow straits the steamer had to wait for the +tide; then would she weave in and out, like a shuttle in a loom, among +the buoys, leaving the black ones on the left and the red ones on the +right, and ever and anon they would be in a straight line, with the +wicked boulder-heads visible beneath the surface or lifting their savage +points above, compelling almost a square corner to be turned in order to +avoid them. At such times the passengers were all on deck, listening to +the captain's commands, and watching the boat obey his bidding. + +From Victoria to Tongas Narrows the distance is 638 miles, and here was +the first stop for the tourists. The event here was going ashore in +rowboats, and in the rain, only to see a few dirty Indians--a foresight +of what was to follow--and a salmon-packing house not yet in working +order. + +From Tongas Narrows to Fort Wrangel, thousands of islands fill the water, +while the mainland is on the right and Prince of Wales Island on the +extreme left. + +FORT WRANGEL. + +Like all Alaska towns, it is situated at the base of lofty peaks along +the water's edge at the head of moderately pretty harbors. It seems to be +the generic home of storms, and the mountains, the rocks, the buildings, +and trees, and all, show the weird workings of nature's wrath. In 1863 it +was a thriving town where miners outfitted for the mines of the Stikeen +river and Cassian mines of British Columbia; but that excitement has +temporarily subsided, and the $150,000 government buildings are falling +in decay. The streets are filled with debris, and everything betokens the +ravages of time. The largest and most grotesque totem poles seen on the +trip here towered a height of fifty feet. Those poles represent a history +of the family and the ancestry as far as they can trace it. If they are of +the Wolf tribe a huge wolf is carved at the top of the pole, and then on +down with various signs to the base, the great events of the family and +the intermarriages, not forgetting to give place to the good and bad gods +who assisted them. The genealogy of a tribe is always traced back through +the mother's side. The totem poles are sometimes very large, perhaps four +feet at the base. When the carving is completed they are planted firmly in +front of the hut, there to stay until they fall away. At the lower end, +some four feet from the ground, there is an opening into the already +hollowed pole, and in this are put the bones of the burned bodies of the +family. It is only the wealthier families who support a totem pole, and +no amount of money can induce an Indian to part with his family tree. + +[Illustration: SITKA HARBOR, ALASKA. +Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +THE GRAVES + +of those not having totems are found in clusters, or scattered on the +mountain sides, or anywhere convenience dictates. The bones are put in a +box with all the belongings of the deceased, and then deposited anywhere. +The natives are exceedingly superstitious and jealous in their care of the +dead, and would sooner die than molest or steal from a grave. That +tourists who are supposed to be civilized, refined, and Christianized +should steal from them is a crime which should never be tolerated, as it +was among the passengers of our steamer. + +The natives have a belief that all bodies cremated turn into ravens, and +that probably accounts to them for the endless number of those birds in +Alaska. Ravens are sacred birds to them, and are never molested in +anyway. There are other methods of disposing of the dead in different +parts of Alaska. The bones are sometimes put in a canoe and raised high +in the air on straddles; again, in trees above the reach of prowling +animals, or set adrift in a discarded canoe. + +JUNEAU--THE TREADWELL MINE. + +After leaving Wrangel the steamer anchored off Salmon Bay to lighter +eighty tons of salt for fishermen, then on to Juneau and Douglas Islands. +Here was the same general appearance of location, the gigantic background +of densely wooded mountains, the tide-washed streets, on broken slopes, +the dirty native women with their wares for sale, with prices advanced +200 per cent, since the steamer whistled, and behind them their stern +male companions, goading them on to make their sales, and stealthily +kicking them in their crouched positions if they came down on their +prices to an eager but economical tourist. + +Juneau is the only town of any importance on the mainland. It has arisen +to that dignity through the quality of its mines, and it is now the +mining centre of Alaska. Here we found Edward I. Parsons, of San +Francisco, erecting an endless-rope tramway for conducting ores to a +ten-stamp mill now under construction. Mr. Parsons has had large +experience in this line, and his tales of "Tramway Life" in Mexico are +intensely thrilling and full of interest. It is to be hoped that the good +people of Juneau will see to it that he does not have to eat the native +dishes, as he did in the land of the greasers. The festive dog is all +right in his place, but rather revolting to an epicure. + +The famous Treadwell gold mine lies across the bay, on Douglas Island. It +is noted, not so much for its richness per ton, but for its vast extent. +The 120-stamp mill makes such a deafening noise that there is no fear +that the curious minded will cause employés to waste any time answering +questions, for nothing can be heard but the rise and fall of the great +crushers and the crunching of the ores. The ore is so plentiful that an +addition of 120 stamps is being added to the present capacity. The hole +blasted by the miners looks like the crater of a huge volcano without the +circling top, and sloping down to an apex from which is the tunnel to the +mill. The Treadwell yields about $200,000 per month, and will double that +when the mill is completed. + +There are many pleasant homes in Juneau, and some of its society people +are charming indeed. The business houses carry some large stocks of +goods, and outfitting for the interior mines in the Yukon country is all +done at this place. There are two weekly papers, one the _Mining Record_, +an eight-page, bright, newsy paper which deserves a liberal support. + +One of the most novel and grotesque features of the entire trip was a +dance given by the Indians at + +A "POTLATCH," + +a term applied to any assemblage of good cheer, although in its primary +sense it means a gift. A potlatch is given at the outset, or during the +progress of some important event, such as the building of a new house, +confirming of a sub-chief, or celebrating any good fortune, either of +peace or war. In this instance, a sub-chief was building a new house, and +the frame work was inclosed in rough boards with no floor laid. There is +never but one entrance to an Indian hut. This is in front, and elevated +several feet from the ground, so that you must go down from the door-sill +inside as well as out. No windows were yet in the building, and it was +really in a crude state. These grand festivities last five days, and this +was the second day of merry-making. + +There are two tribes at Juneau, located at each extreme of the town. The +water was black with canoes coming to the feast and dance, bringing gifts +to the tyhee, who, in return, gives them gifts according to their wealth, +and a feast of boiled rice and raisins and dog-meat. The richest men of +the tribe dressed, in the rear of the building, in the wildest and most +fantastic garbs, some in skins of wild animals. There was a full panoply +of blankets, feathers, guns, swords, knives, and, as a last resort, an +old broom was covered with a scarlet case. Jingling pendant horns added +to their usual order, and the savage faces were painted with red and +black in hideous lines. Anything their minds could shape was rigged for a +head-dress, and finally, when all was ready, they ran with fiendish yells +toward the beach, some twenty yards, and there behind a canvas facing the +water they began their strange dance. + +Only one squaw was with them, and she was the wife of the tyhee (chief) +giving the feast. The medicine man had a large bird with white breast, +called the loon. While dancing he picked the white feathers and scattered +them on the heads of the others. The other squaws were sitting on the +ground in long rows in front of the canoes reaching to the water's edge, +about 200 feet below. + +Their music was a wild shout or croon by all the tribe, and the dancing +is a movement in any irregular way, or a swaying motion given to the time +given by the voices, and they only advanced a few inches in an hour's +time. + +The tribe approaching in canoes had their representative men dressed in +the same styles, only gayer, if possible. When the canoes glided onto the +beach, four abreast, it was the signal to drop the canvas hiding the host +and party, and advance a little distance to meet them. Then they broke +ranks and made way for the visitors to approach the house with their +gifts of blankets or other valuables for the tyhee. Most of the Indians +convert their riches into blankets. These nations, seen by the tourist in +an ordinary trip to Alaska, seem very much the same in all points visited. +None of them are poor, all have some money, and many have + +WEALTH COUNTED BY THOUSANDS. + +To be sure, some of them are in a measure Christianized, but the odors +arising from the homes of the best of them are such as a civilized nose +never scented before. Rancid grease, dried fish, pelts, decaying animals, +and human filth made the strongest perfume known to the commercial or +social world. + +[Illustration: GRANVILLE CHANNEL, ALASKA. Reached via the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +The squaws, if they were in mourning or in love, would have their faces +painted black with oil and tar. Then again, a great many wear a wooden or +ivory pin thrust through the lip just below the fleshy part. It is worn +for ornament, the same as ear-rings or nose-rings, and is called a +labret. The missionary work done among them is a commendable one, but it +seems a hopeless task. Their houses are always built with one object in +view, to be able to tie the canoe to the front door. A long row of huts +just above high-tide line can always be safely called a rancherie in that +country. Their food is brought by the tide to their very doors, and the +timbered mountains abound in wild game, and offer ample fuel for the +cutting. + +Chilcot, or Pyramid Harbor, is about twelve hours run from Juneau, and it +is here the famous Chilcot blanket is made from the goat's wool, woven by +hand, and dyed by native dyes, and worked from grotesque patterns. Here, +also, are two of the largest salmon canneries in Alaska, and here, +indeed, were we in the + +LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. + +The hours passed quickly by as the supposed night wore away. At midnight +the twilight was so bright that one could read a newspaper easily. Then +the moon shone in the clear sky with all regal splendor until 3.30 in the +morning, when old Sol again put in his claims for admission. He lifted his +golden head above the snowy peaks, and spirited away the uncertain light +of unfolding dawn by drawing the curtains of the purpling east, and +sending floods of radiance upon the entire world. It was a sight never to +be forgotten, if seen but once in a lifetime. + +Onward once again when the tide was in, and our next awakening was on the +grand glacier fields. The greatest sight of the entire trip, or of any +other in America, now opened out before many eager eyes. For several +days, icebergs had been seen sailing along on the smooth surface from the +great glaciers, and speeding to the southern seas like phantom ships. As +the ship neared the bay, these huge bergs increased in size and number, +with such grotesque and weird shapes, that the mind is absorbed in +shaping turrets, ghosts, goblins, and the like, each moment developing +more and more of things unearthly, until the heart and eyes seem bursting +with the strain, when suddenly a great roar, like the shock of an +explosion of giant powder, turns the eyes to the parent glacier to see +the birth of these unnatural forms. They break from the icy wall with a +stupendous crash, and fall into the water with such force as to send our +great ship careening on her side when the swell from the disturbed waters +strikes her. + +The Muir glacier is the one that occupies the most attention, as it is +the most accessible to tourists. It rises to a perpendicular height of +350 feet, and stretches across the entire head of the Glacier Bay, which +is estimated from three to five miles in width. The Muir and Davidson +glaciers are two arms of that great Ice field extending more than 400 +miles in length, covering more area + +THAN ALL SWITZERLAND, + +and any one of the fifteen subdivisions of the glacial stream is as large +as the Great Rhone glacier. + +Underlying this great ice field is that glacial river which bears these +mountains of ice on its bosom to the ocean. With a roar like distant +artillery, or an approaching thunder-storm, the advancing walls of this +great monster split and fall into the watery deep, which has been sounded +to a depth of some 800 feet without finding anchor. + +The glacial wall is a rugged, uneven mass, with clefts and crevices, +towering pinnacles and domes, higher than Bunker Hill monument, cutting +the air at all angles, and with a stupendous crash sections break off +from any portion without warning and sink far out of sight. Scarcely two +minutes elapse without a portion falling from some quarter. The marble +whiteness of the face is relieved by lines of intense blue, a +characteristic peculiar to the small portions as well as the great. + +Going ashore in little rowboats, the vast area along the sandy beach was +first explored, and it was, indeed, like a fairy land. There were acres +of grottoes, whose honey-combed walls were most delicately carved by the +soft winds and the sunlight reflections around and in the arches of ice, +such as are never seen except in water, ice, and sky. + +MOUNTAINS OF ICE, + +remnants of glaciers, along the beach, stood poised on one point, or +perchance on two points, and arched between. These icebergs were dotted +with stones imbedded; great bowls were melted out and filled with water, +and little cups made of ice would afford you a drink of fresh water on +the shore of this salt sea. + +At five o'clock in the morning, with the sun kissing the cold majestic +glacier into a glad awakening from its icy sleep, the ascent was begun. +Too eager to be among the first to see the top, many started without +breakfast, while others chose the wiser part, and waited to be physically +fortified. + +The ascent is not so difficult as it is dangerous. There is no trail and +no guide, and many a step had to be retraced to get across or around some +bottomless fissure. For some distance the ground seemed quite solid. Soon +it was discovered that there was but a thin covering of dirt on the solid +ice below; but anon in striking the ground with the end of an alpine stick +it would prove to be but an inch of ice and dirt mixed, and a dark abyss +below which we could not fathom. It is to be hoped, for the good of +future tourists, that there are not many such places, or that they may +soon be exposed so they can be avoided. Reaching the top after a tedious +and slippery climb, there was a long view of icy billows, as if the sea +had suddenly congealed amid a wild tempestuous storm. Deep chasms +obstructed the way on all sides, and a misstep or slip would send one +down the blue steps where no friendly rope could rescue, and only the +rushing water could be heard. To view the solid phalanxes of icy floes, +as they fill the mountain fastnesses and imperceptibly march through the +ravines and force their way to the sea, fills one with awe indescribable. +The knowledge that the ice is moving from beneath one's feet thrills one +with a curious sensation hard to portray. + +Below, it seems like the constant wooing of the sea that wins the +offering from this wealth of purity, instead of the voluntary act of this +giant of the Arctic zone. + +For twenty-four hours the awful grandeur of these scenes was gloried in, +when Captain Hunter gave the order to draw the anchor and steam away. The +whistles call the passengers back to the steamer, where they were soon +comparing specimens, viewing instantaneous photographs, hiding bedraggled +clothing, casting away tattered mufflers, and telling of hair-breadth +escapes from peril and death. Many a tired head sought an early pillow, +and floated away in dreams of ghoulish icebergs, until the call for +breakfast disclosed to opening eyes that the boat was anchored in the + +BEAUTIFUL HARBOR OF SITKA. + +The steamer's whistle is the signal for a holiday in all Alaska ports, +and Sitka is no exception to the rule. Six o'clock in the morning, but +the sleepy town had awakened to the fact of our arrival, and the +inhabitants were out in force to greet friends or sell their canoes. +There are some 1,500 people living in Sitka, including all races. The +harbor is the most beautiful a fertile brain can imagine. Exquisitely +moulded islands are scattered about in the most enchanting way, all +shapes and sizes, with now and then a little garden patch, and ever +verdant with native woods and grasses and charming rockeries. As far out +as the eye can reach the beautiful isles break the cold sea into +bewitching inlets and lure the mariner to shelter from evil outside waves. + +The village nestles between giant mountains on a lowland curve surrounded +by verdure too dense to be penetrated with the eye, and too far to try to +walk--which is a good excuse for tired feet. The first prominent feature +to meet the eye on land is a large square house, two stories high, +located on a rocky eminence near the shore, and overlooking the entire +town and harbor. Once it was a model dwelling of much pretension, with +its spacious apartments, hard-wood six-inch plank floors, +elaborately-carved decorations, stained-glass windows, and its amusement +and refreshment halls. All betoken the former elegance of the Russian +governor's home, which was supported with such pride and magnificence as +will never be seen there again. The walls are crumbling, the windows +broken, and the old oaken stairways will soon be sinking to earth again, +and its only life will be on the page of history. + +[Illustration: DEVIL'S THUMB, ALASKA. +Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +The mission-school hospital, chapel, and architectural buildings occupied +much of the tourists' time, and some were deeply interested. There are +eighteen missionaries in Sitka, under the Presbyterian jurisdiction, +trying to educate and Christianize the Indians. They are doing a noble +work, but it does seem a hopeless task when one goes among the Indian +homes, sees the filth, smells the vile odors, and studies the native +habits. + +These Indians, like the other tribes, are not poor, but all have more or +less money. + +MANY ARE RICH, + +having more than $20,000 in good hard cash, yet the squalor in which they +live would indicate the direst poverty. + +The stroll to Indian river, from which the town gets its water supply, is +bewitching. The walk is made about six feet through an evergreen forest, +the trees arching overhead, for a distance of two miles, and is close to +the bay, and following the curve in a most picturesque circle. The water +is carried in buckets loaded on carts and wheeled by hand, for horses are +almost unknown in Alaska. There are probably not more than half a dozen +horses and mules in all Alaska--not so much because of the expense of +transportation and board, as lack of roads and the long, dark days and +months of winter, when people do not go out but very little. All the +packing is done in all sections of Alaska by natives carrying the packs +and supplies on their backs. + +Sitka's most interesting object is the old Greek church, located in the +middle of the town, and also in the middle of the street. Its form is +that of a Greek cross, with a copper-covered dome, surmounted by a +chime-bell tower. The inside glitters with gold and rare paintings, gold +embroidered altar cloths and robes; quaint candelabra of solid silver are +suspended in many nooks, and an air of sacred quiet pervades the whole +building. There were no seats, for the Russians remain standing during +the worship. Service is held every Sabbath by a Russian priest in his +native language, and the church is still supported by the Russian +Government. Indeed, Russia does more for the advancement of religion than +does our own Government for Alaska. + +The walk through the Indian ranch was but a repetition of the other +towns, only that they were wealthier and uglier, if possible, than the +other tribes. The Hydahs are very powerfully built, tall, large boned, +and stout. + +Two days were spent in visiting and trafficking with these people. Then +the anchor came up, and soon a silver trail like a huge sea serpent moved +among the green isles, and followed us once more--now on the homeward +sail. + +But one new place of importance was made on the home trip, and that was at + +KILLISNOO. + +When the steamer arrived, the evening after leaving Sitka, the city +policeman met us at the wharf and invited us to visit his hut. Of course, +he was a native, who expected to sell some curios. Over his door was the +following: + + "By the Governor's commission, + And the company's permission, + I am made the grand tyhee + Of this entire illahee. + + "Prominent in song and story, + I've attained the top of glory. + As Saginaw I am known to fame, + Jake is but my common name." + +The time when he attained his fame and glory must have been when he and +his wife were both drunk one night, and he put the handcuffs on his wife +and could not get them off, and she had to go to Sitka to be released. He +appears in at least a dozen different suits while the steamer is in port, +and stands ready to be photographed every time. + +Killisnoo used to be a point where 100,000 barrels of herring oil were +put up annually. The industry is now increasing again. + +NATURAL WEALTH. + +And this reminds me that I am almost neglecting a reference to Alaska's +vast resources in forests, metals, furs, and fish. There are 300,000,000 +of acres densely wooded with spruce, red and yellow cedar, Oregon pine, +hemlock, fir, and other useful varieties of timber. Canoes are made from +single trees, sixty feet long, with eight-feet beams. + +Gold, silver, lead, iron, coal, and copper are encountered in various +localities. Though but little prospected or developed, Alaska is now +yielding gold at the rate of about $2,000,000 per year. There is a +respectable area of island and mainland country well adapted to +stock-raising, and the production of many cereals and vegetables. The +climate of much of the coast country is milder than that of Colorado, and +stock can feed on the pastures the year round. + +But, if Alaska had no mines, forests, or agriculture, its seal and salmon +fisheries would remain alone an immense commercial property. The salmon +are found in almost any part of these northern waters where fresh water +comes in, as they always seek those streams in the spawning season. There +are different varieties that come at stated periods and are caught in +fabulous numbers, sometimes running solid ten feet deep, and often +retarding steamers when a school of them is overtaken. At Idaho Inlet Mr. +Van Gasken brought up a seine for the Ancon tourists containing 350 salmon +for packing. At nearly every port the steamer landed there was either one +or more canning or salt-packing establishments for salmon. Of these, +11,500,000 pounds were marketed last year. + +Besides the salmon there is the halibut, black and white cod, rock cod, +herring, sturgeon, and many other fish, while the waters are whipped by +porpoises and whales in large numbers all along the way. Governor +Swineford estimates the products of the Alaska fisheries last year at +$3,000,000. + +THE SEAL FISHERIES + +are still 1,800 miles west of Sitka. St. Paul and St. George Islands are +the best breeding places of the seals, sea lions, sea otter, and walrus. +These islands are in a continuous fog in summer, and are swept by icy +blasts in winter. There are many interesting facts connected with these +islands and the habits of these phocine kindred, but space is limited. +Suffice that 100,000 seals are killed each year for commercial purposes. +Over 1,000,000 seal pups are born every year, and when they leave for +winter quarters they go in families and not altogether. An average seal +is about six feet long, but some are found eight feet long and weigh from +400 to 800 pounds. The work of catching is all done between the middle of +June and the first of August. The fur company are supposed to pay our +Government $2 for each pelt. These hides are at once shipped to London to +be dyed and made ready to be put on the market in the United States. + +In fact, Alaska seems full to overflowing with offerings to seekers of +fortune or pleasure. Its coast climate is mild, with no extreme heat, +because of the snow-clad peaks which temper the humid air, and never +extreme cold, because of the Japan current that bathes its mossy slopes +and destroys the frigid wave before it does its work. + +Three thousand miles along this inland sea has revealed scenes of +matchless grandeur--majestic mountains (think of snow-crowned St. Elias, +rising 19,500 feet from the ocean's edge), the mightiest glaciers, +world's of inimitable, indescribable splendor. It is a trip of a +lifetime. There is none other like it, and our party unanimously resolves +that the tourist who fails to take it misses very much. + + * * * * * + +_Fifth Tour_.--From Portland to San Francisco by steamer is one of the +most enjoyable trips offered the tourist in point of safety and comfort, +and the service is exceptionally fine. + +The steamers "Oregon," "Columbia," and "State of California" are powerful +iron steamers, built expressly for tourist travel between Portland and San +Francisco. The traveler will find this fifty-hour ocean voyage thoroughly +enjoyable; the sea is uniformly smooth, no greater motion than the long +swell of the Pacific, and the boats are models of neatness and comfort. +It affords a grand opportunity to run down the California coast, always +in sight of land, and derive the invigorating exhilaration of an ocean +trip without any of its discomforts. Among the many points of interest to +be seen are the picturesque Columbia River Bar, the beautiful Ocean Beach +at Clatsop, the towering heights of Cape Hancock, the lonely Mid-Ocean +Lighthouse at Tillamook Rock, the historical Rogue River Reef, Cape +Mendocino, Humboldt Bay, Point Arena, and last, but not least, the +world-renowned Golden Gate of San Francisco. + +[Illustration: MOONLIGHT AT THE OLD BLOCK HOUSE, COLUMBIA RIVER. On the +Union Pacific Ry.] + +The steamships of this company are all new, modern-designed iron vessels, +supplied with steam steering apparatus, electric light and bells, and all +improved nautical appliances. The state-rooms, cabins, salons, etc., are +elaborately furnished throughout, the whole presenting an unrivaled scene +of luxurious ocean life. + +The advantages of this charming ocean trip to the tourist are most +obvious; there is the healthful air of the grand old Pacific Ocean, +complete freedom from dust, heat, cinders, and all the discomforts which +one meets in midsummer railway travel. + + * * * * * + +STANDARD PUBLICATIONS BY THE PASSENGER DEPARTMENT OF THE UNION PACIFIC +RAILWAY. + +The Passenger Department of the Union Pacific Railway will take pleasure +in forwarding to any address, free, of charge, any of the following +publications, provided that with the application is enclosed the amount +of postage specified below for each publication. All of these books and +pamphlets are fresh from the press, many of them handsomely illustrated, +and accurate as regards the region of country described. They will be +found entertaining and instructive, and invaluable as guides to and +authority on the fertile tracts and landscape wonders of the great empire +of the West. There is information for the tourist, pleasure and health +seeker, the investor, the settler, the sportsman, the artist, and the +invalid. + +The Western Resort Book. Send 6 cents for postage. + +This is a finely illustrated book describing the vast Union Pacific +system. Every health resort, mountain retreat, watering place, hunter's +paradise, etc., etc., is depicted. This book gives a full and complete +detail of all tours over the line, starting from Sioux City, Council +Bluffs, Omaha, St. Joseph, Leavenworth, or Kansas City, and contains a +complete itinerary of the journey from either of these points to the +Pacific Coast. + +Sights and Scenes. Send 2 cents postage for each pamphlet. + +There are five pamphlets in this set, pocket folder size, illustrated, +and are descriptive of tours to particular points. The set comprises +"Sights and Scenes in Colorado;" Utah; Idaho and Montana; California; +Oregon, Washington, and Alaska. Each pamphlet, deals minutely with every +resort of pleasure or health within its assigned limit, and will be found +bright and interesting reading for tourists. + +Facts and Figures. Send 2 cents postage for each pamphlet. + +This is a set of three pamphlets, containing facts and figures relative +to Kansas, Nebraska, and Colorado respectively. They are more +particularly meant for intending settlers in these fertile States and +will be found accurate in every particular; there is a description of all +important towns. + +Vest Pocket Memorandum Book. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A handy, neatly gotten-up little memorandum book, very useful for the +farmer, business man, traveler, and tourist. + +Calendar, 1890. Send 6 cents for postage. + +An elegant Calendar for the year 1890, suitable for the office and +counting room. + +Comprehensive Pamphlets. Send 6 cents postage for each pamphlet. + +A set of pamphlets on Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, Idaho, Oregon, +and Washington. These books treat, of the resources, climate, acreage, +minerals, grasses, soil, and products of these various empires on an +extended scale, entering very fully upon an exhaustive treatise of the +capabilities and promise of the places described. They have been very +carefully compiled, and the information collated from Official Reports, +actual settlers, and residents of the different States and Territories. + +Theatrical Diary. Send 10 cents for postage. + +This is a Theatrical Diary for 1890-91, bound in Turkey Morocco, gilt +tops, and contains a, list of 255 theatres and opera houses reached by +the Union Pacific system, seating capacity, size of stage, terms, +newspapers in each town, etc., etc. This Diary is intended only for the +theatrical profession. + +Commercial Salesman's Expense Book. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A neat vest pocket memorandum book for 1890--dates, cash accounts, etc., +etc. + +Outdoor Sports and Pastimes. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A carefully compiled pamphlet of some thirty pages, giving the complete +rules of this year, for Lawn Tennis, Base Ball, Croquet, Racquet, +Cricket, Quoits, La Crosse, Polo, Curling, Foot Ball, etc., etc. There +are also diagrams of a Lawn Tennis Court and Base Ball diamond. This +pamphlet will be found especially valuable to lovers of these games. + +Map of the United States. Send 25 cents for postage. + +A large wall map of the United States, complete in every particular, and +compiled from the latest surveys; just published; size, 46 x 66 inches; +railways, counties, roads, etc., etc. + +Stream, Sound and Sea. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A neat, illustrated pamphlet descriptive of a trip from The Dalles of the +Columbia to Portland, Ore., Astoria, Clatsop Beach; through the strait of +Juan de Fuca and the waters of the Puget Sound, and up the coast to +Alaska. A handsome pamphlet containing valuable information for the +tourist. + +Wonderful Story. Send 2 cents for postage. + +The romance of railway building. The wonderful story of the early surveys +and the building of the Union Pacific. A paper by General G.M. Dodge, read +before the Society of the Army of the Tennessee, September, 1888. General +Sherman pronounces this document fascinatingly interesting and, of great +historical value, and vouches for its accuracy. + +Gun Club Rules and Revised Game Laws. Send 2 cents for postage. + +This valuable publication is a digest of the laws relating to game in all +the Western States and Territories. It also contains the various gun club +rules, together with a guide to all Western localities where game of +whatsoever description may be found. Every sportsman should have one. + +"The Oldest Inhabitant." Send 10 cents for postage. + +This is a buffalo head in Sepia, a very artistic study from life. It is +characterized by strong drawing and wonderful fidelity. A very handsome +acquisition for parlor or library. + +Crofutt's Overland Guide, No. 1. Send $1.00. + +This book has just been issued. It graphically describes every point, +giving its history, population, business resources, etc., etc., on the +line of the Union Pacific Hallway, between the Missouri River and the +Pacific Coast, and the tourist should not start West without a copy in +his possession. It furnishes in one volume a complete guide to the +country traversed by the Union Pacific system, and can not fail to be of +great assistance to the tourist in selecting his route, and obtaining +complete information about the points to be visited. + +A Glimpse of Great Salt Lake. Send 4 cents for postage. + +This is a charming description of a yachting cruise on the mysterious +Inland sea, beautifully illustrated with original sketches by the +well-known artist, Mr. Alfred Lambourne, of Salt Lake City. This +startling phenomena of sea and cloud and light and color are finely +portrayed. This book touches a new region, a voyage on Great Salt Lake +never before having been described and pictured. + +General Folder. No postage required. + +A carefully revised General Folder is issued regularly every month. This +publication gives condensed through time tables; through car service; a +first-class map of the United States, west of Chicago and St. Louis; +important baggage and ticket regulations of the Union Pacific Railway, +thus making a valuable compendium for the traveler and for ticket agent +in selling through tickets over the Union Pacific Railway. + +The Pathfinder. No postage required. + +A book of some fifty pages devoted to local time cards; containing a +complete list of stations with the altitude of each; also connections +with western stage lines and ocean steamships; through car service; +baggage and Pullman Sleeping Car rates and the principal ticket +regulations, which will prove of great value as a ready reference for +ticket agents to give passengers information about the local branches of +the Union Pacific Railway. + +Alaska Folder. No postage required. + +This Folder contains a brief outline of the trip to Alaska, and also a +correct map of the Northwest Pacific Coast, from Portland to Sitka, +Alaska, showing the route of vessels to and from this new and almost +unknown country. + +[Illustration: Oregon, Washington and Alaska. Sights and Scenes for the +Tourist.] + +[Illustration: Tourist Map of Union Pacific and Connecting Lines.] + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA; +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST.*** + + +******* This file should be named 10751-8.txt or 10751-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/7/5/10751 + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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L. Lomax</title> +<style type="text/css"> + + +<!-- +body {text-align:justify; margin-left:5%; margin-right:5%;} +h1,h2,h3 {text-align:center;} + +--> +</style> +</head> +<body> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Oregon, Washington and Alaska; Sights and +Scenes for the Tourist, by E. L. Lomax</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: Oregon, Washington and Alaska; Sights and Scenes for the Tourist.</p> +<p>Author: E. L. Lomax</p> +<p>Release Date: January 19, 2004 [eBook #10751]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: iso-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA; SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST.***</p> +<center><h3>E-text prepared by P. A. Peters, Beth Trapaga,<br> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team</h3></center> + +<hr> +<p> </p> +<center><img src="Images/01Fronttiny.jpg" alt="Front Cover" + height="250" width="99" hspace="10" border="1"><img src= + "Images/02aTitlePageTiny.jpg" alt="Title Page" height="225" + width="100" hspace="10" border="1"> <img src= + "Images/02BackTiny.jpg" alt="Back Cover" height="250" width= + "99" hspace="10" border="1"></center> +<p> </p> +<center> +<h1>OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA.<br> +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST.</h1> +<h3>By E.L. LOMAX,<br> +General Passenger Agent,<br> +Union Pacific System,<br> +Omaha, Neb.<br> +<br> +1890</h3></center> +<hr size="3" width="100%" align="center"> +<p align="left"><b>LIST OF AGENTS.</b></p> +<p><small><b>ALBANY, N.Y.</b>—23 Maiden Lane—J.D. +TENBROECK. Trav. Pass. Agt.<br> + <b>BOSTON, MASS.</b>—290 Washington St.—W.S. CONDELL, +New England Freight and Passenger Agent.<br> + J.S. SMITH, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + E.M. NEWBEGIN, Traveling Freight and Passenger +Agent.<br> + A.P. MASSEY, Passenger and Freight Solicitor.<br> + <b>BUFFALO, N.Y.</b>—40½ Exchanges St.—S.A. +HUTCHISON, Trav. Pass. Agt.<br> + <b>BUTTE, MONT.</b>—Corner Main and Broadway—General +Agt.<br> + <b>CHEYENNE, WYO.</b>—C.W. SWEET, Freight and Ticket +Agent.<br> + <b>CHICAGO, ILL.</b>—191 South Clark St.—W.H. KNIGHT, +Gen'l Agt. P. and F. Dep'ts.<br> + T.W. YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + W.T. HOLLY, City Passenger Agent.<br> + ALFRED MORTESSEN & CO., European Immigration +Agts., 140 Kinzie St.<br> + <b>CINCINNATI, OHIO</b>—56 West 4th St.—J.D. WELSH, +Gen'l Agt. P. and F. Dep'ts.<br> + H.C. SMITH, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent.<br> + <b>CLEVELAND, OHIO</b>—Kennard House.—A.G. SHEARMAN, +T. F. and P. Agt.<br> + <b>COLORADO SPRINGS, COLO.</b>—E.D. BAXTER, Gen'l Agt D., T. +& Ft. W. R.R.<br> + <b>COLUMBUS, OHIO</b>—N.W. Cor. Gay and High Sts.—T.C. +HIRST, Trav. Pass. Agt.<br> + <b>COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA</b>—506 First Ave.—A.J. +MANDERSON, General Agt.<br> + R.W. CHAMBERLAIN, Passenger Agent, Transfer Depot.<br> + J.W. MAYNARD, Ticket Agent, Transfer Depot.<br> + A.T. ELWELL, City Ticket Agent, 507 Broadway.<br> + <b>DALLAS, TEX.</b>—H.M. DE HART, General Agent D., T. & +Ft. W. R.R.<br> + <b>DENVER, COLO.</b>—1703 Larimer St.—F.I. SMITH, +Gen'l Agt. D., T. & Ft. W. R.R.<br> + GEO. ADY, General Passenger Agent, Colo. Div. and D., +T. & Ft. W. R.R.<br> + F.B. SEMPLE, Ass't Gen'l Pass. Agt, Colo. Div. and D., +T. & Ft. W. R.R.<br> + C.H. TITUS, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + R.P.M. KIMBALL, City Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>DES MOINES, IOWA</b>—218 4th St.—E.M. FORD, +Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + <b>DETROIT, MICH.</b>—62 Griswold St.—D.W. JOHNSTON, +Michigan Pass. Agt.<br> + <b>HELENA, MONT.</b>—2 North Main St.—A.E. VEAZIE, +City Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>INDIANAPOLIS, IND.</b>—Room 3 Jackson Place.—H.O. +WEBB, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + <b>KANSAS CITY, MO.</b>—9th and Broadway.—J.B. +FRAWLEY, Div. Pass. Agt.<br> + J.B. REESE, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + F.S. HAACKE, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + H.K. PROUDFIT, City Passenger Agent.<br> + T.A. SHAW, Ticket Agent, 1038 Union Ave.<br> + A.W. MILLSPAUGH, Ticket Agent, Union Depot.<br> + C.A. WHITTIER, City Ticket Agent, 528 Main St.<br> + <b>LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND</b>—23 Water St.—S. STAMFORD +PARRY, General European Agent.<br> + <b>LONDON, ENGLAND</b>—THOS. COOK & SONS, European +Passenger Agents, Ludgate Circus.<br> + <b>LOS ANGELES, CAL.</b>—51 North Spring St.—JOHN +CLARK, Agt. Pass. Dep't.<br> + A.J. HECHTMAN, Agent Freight Department.<br> + <b>LOUISVILLE, KY.</b>—346 West Main St.—N. HAIGHT, +Traveling Pass. Agent.<br> + <b>NEW ORLEANS, LA.</b>—45 St. Charles St.—C.B. SMITH, +General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R.<br> + D.M. REA, Traveling Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R.<br> + <b>NEW YORK CITY</b>—287 Broadway—R. TENBROECK, +General Eastern Agent.<br> + J.F. WILEY, Passenger Agent.<br> + F.R. SEAMAN, City Passenger Agent.<br> + <b>OGDEN, UTAH</b>—Union Depot—C.A. HENRY, Ticket +Agent.<br> + C.E. INGALLS, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + <b>OLYMPIA, WASH.</b>—2d St. Wharf.—J.C. PERCIVAL, +Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>OMAHA, NEB.</b>—9th and Farnam Sts.—M.J. GREEVY, +Trav. Pass. Agt.<br> + HARRY P. DEUEL, City Passenger and Ticket Agent, 1302 +Farnam St.<br> + J.K. CHAMBERS, Depot Ticket Agent, 10th and Marey +Sts.<br> + <b>PHILADELPHIA, PA.</b>—133 South 4th St.—D.E. +BURLEY, Trav. Pass. Agt.<br> + L.T. FOWLER, Traveling Freight Agent.<br> + <b>PITTSBURG, PA.</b>—400 Wood St.—H.E. PASSAVANT, T. +F. and P. A.<br> + THOS. S. SPEAR, Traveling Freight and Passenger +Agent.<br> + <b>PORTLAND, ORE.</b>—Cor. 3d and Oak Sts.—T.W. LEE, +Gen'l Passenger Agent, Pacific Div.<br> + A.L. MAXWELL, General Agent Traffic Department.<br> + HARRY YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + GEO. S. TAYLOR, City Ticket Agent. Cor. 1st and Oak +Sts.<br> + <b>PORT TOWNSEND, WASH.</b>—Union Wharf—H.L. TIBBALS, +Jr., Ticket Agt.<br> + <b>PUEBLO, COLO.</b>—E.R. HARDING, General Agent D., T. +& Ft. W. R.R.<br> + <b>ST. JOSEPH, MO.</b>—F.L. LYNDE, General Pass. Agent, St. +J. & G.I. R.R. Div.<br> + W.P. ROBINSON, Jr., General Freight Agent, St. J. +& G.I. R.R. Div.<br> + <b>ST. LOUIS, MO.</b>—213 North 4th St.—J.F. AGLAR, +Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep't.<br> + E.R. TUTTLE, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + E.S. WILLIAMS, City Passenger Agent.<br> + C.C. KNIGHT, Freight Contracting Agent.<br> + <b>SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH</b>—201 Main St.—J.V. PARKER, +Assistant General Freight and Passenger Agent, Mountain Div.<br> + <b>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.</b>—1 Montgomery St.—W.H. +HURLBURT, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Mo. Riv. Div.<br> + S.W. ECCLES, General Agent Freight Department.<br> + C.L. HANNA, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + H. FRODSHAM, Passenger Agent.<br> + J.F. FUGAZI, Italian Emigrant Agent, 5 Montgomery +Ave.<br> + <b>SEATTLE, WASH.</b>—A.C. MARTIN, City Ticket Agent.<br> + O.F. BRIGGS, Ticket Agent, Dock.<br> + <b>SIOUX CITY, IOWA</b>—513 Fourth St.—D.M. COLLINS, +General Agent.<br> + GEO. E. ABBOT, City Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>SPOKANE FALLS, WASH.</b>—108 Riverside Ave.—PERRY +GRIFFIN, Passenger and Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>TACOMA, WASH.</b>—901 Pacific Ave.—E.E. ELLIS, +Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep'ts.<br> + <b>TRINIDAD, COLO.</b>—G.M. JACOBS, General Agent D., T. +& Ft. W. R.R.<br> + <b>VICTORIA, B.C.</b>—100 Government St.—G.A. COOPER, +Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>WHATCOM, WASH.</b>—J.W. ALTON, Gen'l Agent Freight and +Pass. Dep'ts.<br></small></p> +<hr size="1" width="70%" noshade align="center"> +<p align="center"><small><b>J.A.S. REED</b>, General Traveling +Agent, 191 South Clark St., CHICAGO.<br> + <b>ALBERT WOODCOCK</b>, General Land Commissioner, OMAHA, +NEB.</small></p> +<hr size="1" width="70%" noshade align="center"> +<center> +<p align="center"><small><b>E.L. LOMAX</b>, General Passenger +Agent,<br> + <b>JNO. W. SCOTT</b>, Ass't General Passenger Agent,<br> + OMAHA, NEB.</small></p> +<hr size="2" width="80%" noshade align="center"> +<p> </p> +<h2>PULLMAN'S PALACE CAR COMPANY</h2> +<p>Now operates this class of service on the Union Pacific and +connecting lines.</p></center> +<center> +<table border="1" width="75%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" +summary="Routes and Prices"> +<tr> +<th width="450" align="left">PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES BETWEEN</th> +<th width="15" align="center">Double Berths</th> +<th width="15" align="center">Drawing Room</th></tr> +<tr> +<td>New York and Chicago</td> +<td align="right">$ 5.00</td> +<td align="right">$ 18.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>New York and St. Louis</td> +<td align="right">6.00</td> +<td align="right">22.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Boston and Chicago</td> +<td align="right">5.50</td> +<td align="right">20.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Chicago and Omaha or Kansas City</td> +<td align="right">2.50</td> +<td align="right">9.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Chicago and Denver</td> +<td align="right">6.00</td> +<td align="right">21.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>St. Louis and Kansas City</td> +<td align="right">2.00</td> +<td align="right">7.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>St. Louis and Omaha</td> +<td align="right">2.50</td> +<td align="right">9.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Kansas City and Cheyenne</td> +<td align="right">4.50</td> +<td align="right">15.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Denver</td> +<td align="right">3.50</td> +<td align="right">12.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne</td> +<td align="right">4.00</td> +<td align="right">14.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Salt Lake City</td> +<td align="right">8.00</td> +<td align="right">28.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Ogden</td> +<td align="right">8.00</td> +<td align="right">28.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Butte</td> +<td align="right">8.50</td> +<td align="right">32.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Portland</td> +<td align="right">13.00</td> +<td align="right">50.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>C. Bluff, Omaha or K. City and San Francisco or Los +Angeles</td> +<td align="right">13.00</td> +<td align="right">50.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Cheyenne and Portland</td> +<td align="right">10.00</td> +<td align="right">38.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Denver and Leadville</td> +<td align="right">2.00</td> +<td align="right">——</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Denver and Portland</td> +<td align="right">11.00</td> +<td align="right">42.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Denver and Los Angeles</td> +<td align="right">11.00</td> +<td align="right">42.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Denver and San Francisco</td> +<td align="right">11.00</td> +<td align="right">42.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Pocatello and Butte</td> +<td align="right">2.00</td> +<td align="right">6.00</td></tr></table></center> +<center> +<p><b>For a Section, Twice the Double Berth Rates will be +charged.</b></p></center> +<p>The Private Hotel, Dining, Hunting and Sleeping Cars of the +Pullman Company will accommodate from 12 to 18 persons, allowing a +full bed to each, and are fitted with such modern conveniences as +private, observation and smoking rooms, folding beds, reclining +chairs, buffets and kitchens. They are "<i>just the thing</i>" for +tourists, theatrical companies, sportsmen, and private parties. The +Hunting Cars have special conveniences, being provided with +dog-kennels, gun-racks, fishing-tackle, etc. These cars can be +chartered at following rates per diem (the time being reckoned from +date of departure until return of same, unless otherwise arranged +with the Pullman Company):</p> +<center> +<p><b>Less than Ten Days.</b></p></center> +<center> +<table border="1" width="75%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" +summary="Less Than Ten Days"> +<tr> +<th width="35%"> </th> +<th align="center" width="10%">per day.</th> +<th width="35%"> </th> +<th align="center" width="10%">per day.</th></tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Hotel Cars</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">$50.00</td> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Private or Hunting Cars</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">$35.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Buffet Cars</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">45.00</td> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Private Cars with Buffet</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">30.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Sleeping Cars</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">40.00</td> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Dining Cars</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">30.00</td></tr></table></center> +<p>Ten Days or over, $5.00 per day less than above. Hotel, Buffet, +or Sleeping Cars can also be chartered for continuous trips without +lay-over between points where extra cars are furnished (cars to be +given up at destination), as follows:</p> +<center> +<table border="1" width="75%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" +summary="Ten Days or Over"> +<tr> +<td>Where berth rate is</td> +<td> $1.50,</td> +<td>car rate will be</td> +<td> $35.00.</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Where berth rate is</td> +<td> 2.00,</td> +<td>car rate will be</td> +<td> 45.00.</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Where berth rate is</td> +<td> 2.50,</td> +<td>car rate will be</td> +<td> 55.00.</td></tr></table></center> +<p>For each additional berth rate of 50 cents, car rate will be +increased $10.00.</p> +<p>Above rates include service of polite and skillful attendants. +The commissariat will also be furnished if desired. Such chartered +cars must contain not less than 15 persons holding full first-class +tickets, and another full fare ticket will be required for each +additional passenger over 15. If chartered "per diem" cars are +given up <i>en route</i>, chartering party must arrange for return +to original starting point free, or pay amount of freight necessary +for return thereto. Diagrams showing interior of these cars can be +had of any agent of the Company.</p> +<p align="center"><b>PULLMAN DINING CARS</b></p> +<p>are attached to the Council Bluffs and Denver Vestibuled +Express, daily between Council Bluffs and Denver, and to "The +Limited Fast Mail," running daily between Council Bluffs and +Portland, Ore.</p> +<p align="center"><b>MEALS.</b></p> +<p>All trains, except those specified above (under head of Pullman +Dining Cars), stop at regular eating stations, where first-class +meals are furnished, under the direct supervision of this Company, +by the Pacific Hotel Company. Neat and tidy lunch counters are also +to be found at these stations.</p> +<p align="center"><b>BUFFET SERVICE.</b></p> +<p>Particular attention is called to the fine Buffet Service +offered by the Union Pacific System to its patrons. Pullman Palace +Buffet Sleepers now run on trains Nos. 1, 2, 201, and 202.</p> +<hr size="2" width="80%" noshade align="center"> +<p> </p> +<h2>SIGHTS AND SCENES IN<br> +OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA.</h2> +<p>Oregon is a word derived from the Spanish, and means "wild +thyme," the early explorers finding that herb growing there in +great profusion. So far as we have any record Oregon seems to have +been first visited by white men in 1775; Captain Cook coasted down +its shores in 1778. Captain Gray, commanding the ship "Columbia," +of Boston, Mass., discovered the noble river in 1791, which he +named after his ship. Astoria was founded in 1811; immigration was +in full tide in 1839; Territorial organization was effected in +1848, and Oregon became a State on 14th February, 1859. It has an +area of 96,000 square miles, and is 350 miles long by 275 miles +wide. There are 50,000,000 acres of arable and grazing land, and +10,000,000 acres of forest in the State.</p> +<p>The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates a +series of excursion tickets called "Columbia Tours," using Portland +as a central point. Stop-over privileges will be given within the +limitation of the tickets.</p> +<p><em><b>First Columbia Tour</b></em>—Portland to "The +Dalles," by rail, and return by river.</p> +<p><em><b>Second Columbia Tour</b></em>—Portland to Astoria, +Ilwaco, and Clatsop Beach, and return by river.</p> +<p><em><b>Third Columbia Tour</b></em>—Portland to Port +Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma by boat and return.</p> +<p><em><b>Fourth Columbia Tour</b></em>—Portland to Alaska +and return.</p> +<p><em><b>Fifth Columbia Tour</b></em>—Portland to San +Francisco by boat.</p> +<center> +<h3>PORTLAND</h3></center> +<p>Is a very beautiful city of 60,000 inhabitants, and situated on +the Willamette river twelve miles from its junction with the +Columbia. It is perhaps true of many of the growing cities of the +West, that they do not offer the same social advantages as the +older cities of the East. But this is principally the case as to +what may be called boom cities, where the larger part of the +population is of that floating class which follows in the line of +temporary growth for the purposes of speculation, and in no sense +applies to those centers of trade whose prosperity is based on the +solid foundation of legitimate business. As the metropolis of a +vast section of country, having broad agricultural valleys filled +with improved farms, surrounded by mountains rich in mineral +wealth, and boundless forests of as fine timber as the world +produces, the cause of Portland's growth and prosperity is the +trade which it has as the center of collection and distribution of +this great wealth of natural resources, and it has attracted, not +the boomer and speculator, who find their profits in the wild +excitement of the boom, but the merchant, manufacturer, and +investor, who seek the surer if slower channels of legitimate +business and investment. These have come from the East, most of +them within the last few years. They came as seeking a better and +wider field to engage in the same occupations they had followed in +their Eastern homes, and bringing with them all the love of polite +life which they had acquired there, have established here a new +society, equaling in all respects that which they left behind. Here +are as fine churches, as complete a system of schools, as fine +residences, as great a love of music and art, as can be found at +any city of the East of equal size.</p> +<center><img src="Images/03Portland.jpg" alt="Portland, Ore." +height="322" width="602"></center> +<p>But while Portland may justly claim to be the peer of any city +of its size in the United States in all that pertains to social +life, in the attractions of beauty of location and surroundings it +stands without its peer. The work of art is but the copy of nature. +What the residents of other cities see but in the copy, or must +travel half the world over to see in the original, the resident of +Portland has at his very door.</p> +<p>The city is situate on gently-sloping ground, with, on the one +side, the river, and on the other a range of hills, which, within +easy walking distance, rise to an elevation of a thousand feet +above the river, affording a most picturesque building site. From +the very streets of the thickly settled portion of the city, the +Cascade Mountains, with the snow-capped peaks of Hood, Adams, St. +Helens, and Rainier, are in plain view. As the hills to the west +are ascended the view broadens, until, from the extreme top of some +of the higher points, there is, to the east, the valley stretching +away to the Cascade Mountains, with its rivers, the Columbia and +Willamette; in the foreground Portland, in the middle distance +Vancouver, and, bounding the horizon, the Cascade Mountains, with +their snow-clad peaks, and the gorge of the Columbia in plain +sight, whilst away to the north the course of the Columbia may be +followed for miles. To the west, from the foot of the hills, the +valley of the Tualatin stretches away twenty odd miles to the Coast +Range, which alone shuts out the view of the Pacific Ocean and +bounds the horizon on the west. To the glaciers of Mt. Hood is but +little more than a day's travel. The gorge of the Columbia, which +in many respects equals, and in others surpasses the far-famed +Yosemite, may be visited in the compass of a day. The Upper +Willamette, within the limits of a few hours' trip, offers beauties +equaling the Rhine, whilst thirty-six hours gives the Lower +Columbia, beside which the Rhine and Hudson sink into +insignificance. In short, within a few hours' walk of the heart of +this busy city are beauties surpassing the White Mountains or +Adirondacks, and the grandeur of the Alps lies within the limits of +a day's picnicking.</p> +<p>There is no better guarantee of the advantageous position of +Portland than the wealth which has accumulated here in the short +period which has elapsed since the city first sprang into +existence. Theory is all very well, but the actual proof is in the +result. At the taking of the census of 1880, Portland was the third +wealthiest city in the world in proportion to population; since +that date wealth has accumulated at an unprecedented rate, and it +is probable it is to-day the wealthiest. Among all her wealthy men, +not one can be singled out who did not make his money here, who did +not come here poor to grow rich.</p> +<p>Portland enjoys superb advantages as a starting-point for +tourist travel. After the traveler has enjoyed the numerous +attractions of that wealthy city, traversed its beautiful avenues, +viewed a strikingly noble landscape from "The Heights," and +explored those charming environs which extend for miles up and down +the Willamette, there remains perhaps the most invigorating and +healthful trip of all—a journey either by</p> +<center> +<h3>STREAM, SOUND, OR SEA.</h3></center> +<p>There must ever remain in the mind of the tourist a peculiarly +delightful recollection of a day on the majestic Columbia River, +the all too short run across that glorious sheet of water, Puget +Sound, or the fifty hours' luxurious voyage on the Pacific Ocean, +from Portland to San Francisco.</p> +<p>Beginning first with the Columbia River, the traveler will find +solid comfort on any one of the boats belonging to the Union +Pacific Railway fleet. This River Division is separated into three +subdivisions: the Lower Columbia from Portland to Astoria, the +Middle Columbia from Portland to Cascade Locks, and the Upper +Columbia from the Cascades to The Dalles.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr size="4" width="50%" align="center"> +<center> +<h3>THE UPPER COLUMBIA.</h3> +<h4><i>First Tour—</i></h4></center> +<p>Passengers will remember that, arriving at The Dalles, on the +Union Pacific Railway, they have the option of proceeding into +Portland either by rail or river, and their ticket is available for +either route.</p> +<center><img src="Images/04MtAdams.jpg" alt= +"Mount Adams, Washington" height="268" width="484"></center> +<p>The river trip will be found a very pleasant diversion after the +long railway ride, and a day's sail down the majestic Columbia is a +memory-picture which lasts a life-time. It is eighty-eight miles by +rail to Portland, the train skirting the river bank up to within a +few miles of the city. By river, it is forty-five miles to the +Upper Cascades, then a six-mile portage via narrow-gauge railway, +then sixty miles by steamer again to Portland. The boat leaves The +Dalles at about 7 in the morning, and reaches Portland at 6 in the +evening. The accommodations on these boats are first-class in every +respect; good table, neat staterooms, and courteous attendants.</p> +<p>This tour is planned for those who may wish to start from +Portland by the Union Pacific Railway. Take the evening train from +Portland to The Dalles. Arriving at The Dalles, walk down to the +boat, which lies only a few yards down stream from the station. +Sleep on board, so that you may be ready early in the morning for +the stately panorama of the river. Another plan is to give a day to +the interesting country in the near vicinity. The Dalles proper of +the Columbia begin at Celilo, fourteen miles above this point, and +are simply a succession of rapids, until, nearing The Dalles +Station, the stream for two and a half miles narrows down between +walls of basaltic rock 130 feet across. In the flood-tides of the +spring the water in this chasm has risen 126 feet. The word +"Dalles" is rather misleading. The word is French, "dalle," and +means, variously, "a plate," "a flagstone," "a slab," alluding to +the oval or square shaped stones which abound in the river bed and +the valley above. But the early French hunters and trappers called +a chasm or a defile or gorge, "dalles," meaning in their vernacular +"a trough"—and "Dalles" it has remained. There is a quaint +Indian legend connected with the spot which may interest the +curious, and it runs something on this wise, Clark's Fork and the +Snake river, it will be remembered, unite at Ainsworth to form the +Columbia. It flows furiously for a hundred miles and more westward, +and when it reaches the outlying ridges of the Cascade chain it +finds an immense low surface paved with enormous sheets of basaltic +rock. But here is the legend:</p> +<center> +<h3>THE LEGEND OF THE DALLES.</h3></center> +<p>In the very ancient far-away times the sole and only inhabitants +of the world were fiends, and very highly uncivilized fiends at +that. The whole Northwest was then one of the centres of volcanic +action. The craters of the Cascades were fire breathers and +fountains of liquid flame. It was an extremely fiendish country, +and naturally the inhabitants fought like devils. Where the great +plains of the Upper Columbia now spread was a vast inland sea, +which beat against a rampart of hills to the east of The Dalles. +And the great weapon of the fiends in warfare was their tails, +which were of prodigious size and terrible strength. Now, the +wisest, strongest, and most subtle fiend of the entire crew was one +fiend called the "Devil." He was a thoughtful person and viewed +with alarm the ever increasing tendency among his neighbors toward +fighting and general wickedness. The whole tribe met every summer +to have a tournament after their fashion, and at one of these +reunions the Devil arose and made a pacific speech. He took +occasion to enlarge on the evils of constant warfare, and suggested +that a general reconciliation take place and that they all live in +peace. The astonished fiends could not understand any such +unwarlike procedure from <i>him</i>, and with one accord, +suspecting treachery, made straight at the intended reformer, who, +of course, took to his heels. The fiends pressed him hard as he +sped over the plains of The Dalles, and as he neared the defile he +struck a Titanic blow with his tail on the pavement—and a +chasm opened up through the valley, and down rushed the waters of +the inland sea. But a battalion of the fiends still pursued him, +and again he smote with his tail and more strongly, and a vaster +cleft went up and down the valley, and a more terrific torrent +swept along. The leading fiends took the leap, but many fell into +the chasm—and still the Devil was sorely pursued. He had just +time to rap once more and with all the vigor of a despairing tail. +And this time he was safe. A third crevice, twice the width of the +second, split the rocks, riving a deeper cleft in the mountain that +held back the inland sea, making a gorge through the majestic chain +of the Cascades and opening a way for the torrent oceanward. It was +the crack of doom for the fiends. Essaying the leap, they fell far +short of the edge, where the Devil lay panting. Down they fell and +were swept away by the flood; so the whole race of fiends perished +from the face of the earth. But the Devil was in sorry case. His +tail was unutterably dislocated by his last blow; so, leaping +across the chasm he had made, he went home to rear his family +thoughtfully. There were no more antagonists; so, perhaps, after +all, tails were useless. Every year he brought his children to The +Dalles and told them the terrible history of his escape. And after +a time the fires of the Cascades burned away; the inland sea was +drained and its bed became a fair and habitable land, and still the +waters gushed through the narrow crevices roaring seaward. But the +Devil had one sorrow. All his children born before the catastrophe +were crabbed, unregenerate, stiff-tailed fiends. After that event +every new-born imp wore a flaccid, invertebrate, despondent +tail—the very last insignium of ignobility. So runs the +legend of The Dalles—a shining lesson to reformers.</p> +<p>Leaving The Dalles in the morning, a splendid panorama begins to +unfold on this lordly stream—"Achilles of rivers," as +Winthrop called it. It is difficult to describe the charm of this +trip. Residents of the East pronounce it superior to the Hudson, +and travelers assert there is nothing like it in the Old World. It +is simply delicious to those escaped from the heat and dust of +their far-off homes to embark on this noble stream and steam +smoothly down past frowning headlands and "rocks with carven +imageries," bluffs lined with pine trees, vivid green, past islands +and falls, and distant views of snowy peaks. There is no trip like +it on the coast, and for a river excursion there is not its equal +in the United States.</p> +<center> +<h3>THE ISLE OF THE DEAD.</h3></center> +<p>Twelve miles below "The Dalles" there is a lonely, rugged island +anchored amid stream. It is bare, save for a white monument which +rises from its rocky breast. No living thing, no vestige of +verdure, or tree, or shrub, appears. And Captain McNulty, as he +stood at the wheel and steadied the "Queen," said:</p> +<p>"That monument? It's Victor Trevet's. Of course you never heard +of him, but he was a great man, all the same, here in Oregon in the +old times. Queer he was, and no mistake. Member of one of the early +legislatures; sort of a general peacemaker; everybody went to him +with their troubles, and when he said a lawsuit didn't go, it +didn't, and he always stuck up for the Indians, and always called +his own kind 'dirty mean whites.' I used to think that was put on, +and maybe it was, but anyhow that's the way he used to talk. And a +hundred times he has said to me, 'John, when I die, I want to be +buried on Memaloose Isle.' That's the 'Isle of the Dead,' which we +just passed, and has been from times away back the burial place of +the Chinook Indians. It's just full of 'em. And I says to him, +'Now, Vic., it's fame your after.' 'John,' says he, 'I'll tell you: +I'm not indifferent to glory; and there's many a big gun laid away +in the cemetery that people forget in a year, and his grave's never +visited after a few turns of the wheel; but if I rest on Memaloose +Isle, I'll not be forgotten while people travel this river. And +another thing: You know, John, the dirty, mean whites stole the +Indian's burial ground and built Portland there. Everyday the +papers have an account of Mr. Bigbug's proposed palace, and how +Indian bones were turned up in the excavation. I won't be buried +alongside any such dirty, mean thieves. And I'll tell you further, +John, that it may be if I am laid away among the Indians, when the +Great Day comes I can slip in kind of easy. They ain't going to +have any such a hard time as the dirty whites will have, and maybe +I won't be noticed, and can just slide in quiet along with their +crowd.'</p> +<p>"And I tell you," said the honest Captain, as he swung the +"Queen" around a sharp headland, and the monument and island +vanished, "he has got his wish. He don't lay among the whites, and +there isn't a day in summer when the name of Vic. Trevet ain't +mentioned, either on yon train or on a boat, just as I am telling +it to you now. When he died in San Francisco five years ago, some +of his old friends had him brought back to 'The Dalles,' and one +lovely Sunday (being an off day) we buried him on Memaloose Isle, +and then we put up the monument. His earthly immortality is safe +and sure, for that stone will stand as long as the island stays. +She's eight feet square at the base, built of the native rock right +on the island, then three feet of granite, then a ten-foot column. +It cost us $1,500, and Vic. is bricked up in a vault underneath. +Yes, sir, he's there for sure till resurrection day. Queer idea? +Why, blame it all, if he thought he could get in along with the +Chinooks it's all right, ain't it? Don't want a man to lose any +chances, do you?"</p> +<p>So much has been said of this mighty river that the preconceived +idea of the tourist is of a surging flood of unknown depth rushing +like a mountain torrent. The plain facts are that the Lower +Columbia is rather a placid stream, with a sluggish current, and +the channel shoals up to eight feet, then falling to twelve, +fifteen and seventeen feet, and suddenly dropping to 100 feet of +water and over. In the spring months it will rise from twenty-five +to forty feet, leaving driftwood high up among the trees on the +banks. The tide ebbs and flows at Portland from eighteen inches to +three feet, according to season, and this tidal influence is felt, +in high water, as far up as the Cascades. It is fifty miles of +glorious beauty from "The Dalles" to the Cascades. Here we leave +the steamer and take a narrow-gauge railway for six miles around +the magnificent rapids. At the foot of the Cascades we board a twin +boat, fitted up with equal taste and comfort.</p> +<center> +<h3>THE MIDDLE COLUMBIA.</h3></center> +<p>Swinging once more down stream we pass hundreds of charming +spots, sixty miles of changeful beauty all the way to Portland; +Multnomah Falls, a filmy veil of water falling 720 feet into a +basin on the hillside and then 130 feet to the river; past the +rocky walls of Cape Horn, towering up a thousand feet; past that +curious freak of nature, Rooster Rock, and the palisades; past Fort +Vancouver, where Grant and Sheridan were once stationed, and just +at sunset leaving the Columbia, which by this time has broadened +into noble dimensions, we ascend the Willamette twelve miles to +Portland. And the memory of that day's journey down the lordly +river will remain a gracious possession for years to come.</p> +<center> +<h3>THE LEGEND OF THE CASCADES.</h3></center> +<p><img src="Images/05MultFalls.jpg" alt= +"MULTNOMAH FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE." height="411" width="200" +align="left" hspace="20" vspace="2">There is a quaint Indian legend +concerning the Cascades to the effect that away back in the +forgotten times there was a natural bridge across the +river—the water flowing under one arch. The Great Spirit had +made this bridge very beautiful for his red children; it was firm, +solid earth, and covered with trees and grass. The two great giants +who sat always glowering at each other from far away (Mount Adams +and Mount Hood) quarreled terribly once on a time, and the sky grew +black with their smoke and the earth trembled with their roaring. +And in their rage and fury they began to throw great stones and +huge mountain boulders at one another. This great battle lasted for +days, and when the smoke and the thunderings had passed away and +the sun shone peacefully again, the people came back once more. But +there was no bridge there. Pieces of rock made small islands above +the lost bridge, but below that the river fretted and shouted and +plunged over jagged and twisted boulders for miles down the stream, +throwing the spray high in air, madly spending its strength in +treacherous whirlpools and deep seductive currents—ever after +to be wrathful, complaining, dangerous. The stoutest warrior could +not live in that terrible torrent. So the beautiful bridge was +lost, destroyed in this Titan battle, but far down in the water +could be seen many of the stately trees which the Great Spirit +caused to remain there as a token of the bridge. These he turned to +stone, and they are there even unto this day. The theory of the +scientists, of course, runs counter to the pretty legend. Science +usually does destroy poetry, and they tell us that a part of the +mountain slid into the river, thus accounting for the remnant of a +forest down in the deep water. Moreover, pieces which have been +recovered show the wood to be live timber, and not petrified, as +the poetic fiction has it. The Columbia has not changed in the +centuries, but flows in the same channel here as when in the remote +ages the lava, overflowing, cut out a course and left its pathway +clear for all time. Below the lower Cascades a sea-coral formation +is found, grayish in color and not very pretty, but showing +conclusively its sea formation. Sandstone is also at times +uncovered, showing that this was made by sea deposit before the +lava flowed down upon it. This Oregon country is said to be the +largest lava district in the world. The basaltic formations in the +volcanic lands of Sicily and Italy are famous for their richness, +and Oregon holds out the same promise for agriculture. The lava +formation runs from Portland to Spokane Falls, as far north as +Tacoma, and south as far as Snake river—all basaltic +formation overlaid with an incomparably rich soil.</p> +<p>The trip from Portland by rail to "The Dalles," if the tourist +should chance not to arrive in Portland by the Union Pacific line +from the east, will be found charming. It is eighty-eight miles +distant. Multnomah Falls is reached in thirty-two miles; +Bonneville, forty-one miles, at the foot of the Cascades; five +miles farther is the stupendous government lock now in process of +building around the rapids; Hood river, sixty-six miles, where +tourists leave for the ascent of Mount Hood. It is about forty +miles through a picturesque region to the base of the mountain. +Then from Hood river, an ice-cold stream, twenty-two miles into +"The Dalles," where the steamer may be taken for the return trip. +In this eighty-eight miles from Portland to "The Dalles" there are +twelve miles of trestles and bridges. The railway follows the +Columbia's brink the entire distance to within a few miles of the +city. The scenery is impressively grand; the bluffs, if they may be +so called, are bold promontories attaining majestic heights. One +timber shute, where the logs come whizzing into the river with the +velocity of a cannon-ball, is 3,328 feet long, and it is claimed a +log makes the trip in twenty seconds.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr size="4" width="50%" align="center"> +<center> +<h3>THE LOWER COLUMBIA.</h3> +<h4><i>Second Tour—</i></h4></center> +<p><img src="Images/06Bridal.jpg" alt= +"BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE." height="481" width="235" +align="right" hspace="12" vspace="2"> While the Upper Columbia +abounds in scenery of wild and picturesque beauty, the tourist must +by no means neglect a trip down the lower river from Portland to +Astoria and Ilwaco, and return. The facilities now offered by the +Union Pacific in its splendid fleet of steamers render this a +delightful excursion. On a clear day, one may enjoy at the junction +of the Willamette with the Columbia a very wonderful +sight—five mountain peaks are on view: St. Helens, Mt. +Jefferson, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Rainier. St. Helens, queen +of the Cascade Range, a fair and graceful cone. Exquisite mantling +snows sweep along her shoulders toward the bristling pines. Not far +from her base, the Columbia crashes through the mountains in a +magnificent chasm, and Mt. Hood, the vigorous prince of the range, +rises in a keen pyramid some 12,000 feet. Small villages and +landing-places line the shores, almost too numerous to mention. +There are, of the more important, St. Johns, St. Helens, Columbia +City, Kalama, Rainier, Westport, Cathlamet, Knappa, and Astoria at +the mouth, a busy place of 6,000 people. Salmon canneries there are +without number. It is about 98 miles by the chart from Portland to +Astoria. Across the bay is the pretty town of Ilwaco. Ft. Canby and +Cape Disappointment look across to Ft. Stevens and Point Adams. +From Astoria, one may drive eighteen miles to Clatsop Beach, famous +for its clams, crab, and trout, and Ben Holliday's hotel. But the +fullest enjoyment is obtained by making a round trip, including a +lay-over at Ilwaco all night, and returning to Portland next day, +and sleeping on board the boat. A railway runs from the town to the +outside beach, a mile and a half distant. There is a drive +twenty-five miles long up this long beach to Shoal Water Bay, which +is beautiful beyond description. This district is the great supply +point for oysters, heavy shipments being made as far south as San +Francisco. Sea bathing, both here and at Clatsop Beach, is very +fine.</p> +<p>The boats of the Union Pacific Ry. on the Columbia leave nothing +to be desired. The "T.J. Potter," a magnificent side-wheel steamer, +made her first trip in July, 1888. She is 235 feet long, 35 feet +beam, and 10 feet hold, with a capacity of 600 passengers. The +saloon and state-rooms are fitted with every convenience, and +handsomely decorated. The "Potter" was built entirely in Portland, +and the citizens naturally take great pride in the superb vessel. +In August, 1888, this steamer made the run from her berth at +Portland to the landing stage at Astoria in five hours and +thirty-one minutes. Then there are two night passenger boats from +Portland down, the ""R.R. Thompson" and the "S.G. Reed," both +stern-wheelers of large size, spacious, roomy boats, well appointed +in every particular. The Thompson is 215 feet long, 38 feet beam, +and 1,158 tons measurement. In addition to these, there are two day +mail passenger and freight boats; they handle the way traffic; the +larger boats above mentioned make the run direct from Portland to +Astoria without any landings.</p> +<center> +<h3>SOME RANDOM NOTES.</h3></center> +<p>A mistaken idea has possessed many tourists that the Puget Sound +steamers start from Portland; they leave Tacoma for all points on +the Sound, and Tacoma is about 150 miles by rail from Portland.</p> +<p>One steamer sails every twelfth day from Portland to +Seattle.</p> +<p>One steamer per month leaves Portland for Alaska, but she +touches at Port Townsend before proceeding north.</p> +<p>One steamship leaves Tacoma for Alaska during the season of +1890, about every fifteen days, from June to September.</p> +<p>The Ocean steamers sail every fourth day from Portland to San +Francisco.</p> +<p>There are semi-weekly boats between Portland and Corvallis, and +tri-weekly between Portland and Salem.</p> +<p>On the Sound there are three boats each way, daily (except +Sunday), between Tacoma and Seattle; one boat each way, daily +(except Sunday), between Tacoma and Victoria; one boat each way, +daily (except Sunday), between Seattle and Whatcom, and one boat, +daily (except Sunday), between Whatcom and Seminahmoo.</p> +<p>Only one class of tickets is sold on the River and Sound boats; +on the Ocean steamers there are two classes: cabin and steerage. +The steerage passengers on the Ocean steamers have a dining-room +separate from the first-class passengers—on the lower +deck—and are given abundance of wholesome food, tea and +coffee.</p> +<p>On River and Sound boats, a ticket does not include meals and +berths, but it does on the ocean voyage, or the Alaska trip. The +usual price for meals is 50 cents, and they will be found uniformly +excellent. Breakfast, lunch, and a 6 o'clock dinner are served.</p> +<p>The price of berths on these boats runs from 50 cents for a +single berth to $3 per day for the bridal chamber.</p> +<p>No liquors of any kind are kept on sale on any River or Sound +steamer, but a small stock of the best brands will be found on the +Ocean steamers.</p> +<p>State-rooms on the River and Sound steamers are provided with +one double lower and one single upper berth.</p> +<p>Passengers can, if they choose, purchase the full accommodation +of a state-room.</p> +The steerage capacity of each of the three Ocean steamers is about +300. +<p>The diagram of the Ocean steamers and the night boats to Astoria +can always be found at the Union Ticket Office of the Union Pacific +Railway in Portland, corner First and Oak Streets.</p> +<p>Tourists receive more than an ordinary amount of attention on +these steamers, more than is possible to pay them on a railway +train. The pursers will be found polite and obliging, always ready +to point out places of interest and render those little attentions +which go so far toward making travel pleasant.</p> +<p>On River and Sound boats, the forward cabin is generally the +smoking-room, the cabin amidships is used for a "Social Hall," and +the "After Saloon" is always the ladies' cabin.</p> +<p>All Union Pacific steamers in the Ocean service are heated with +steam and lighted with electricity; all have pianos and a +well-selected library. The beds on these boats are well-nigh +perfect, woven-wire springs and heavy mattresses. They are kept +scrupulously clean—the company is noted for that—and +the steerage is as neat as the main saloon.</p> +<p>One hundred and fifty pounds of baggage is allowed free on board +both boats and trains.</p> +<p>Boats leaving terminal points at any time between 10 p.m. and 7 +a.m., arrange so that passengers can go on board after 7 p.m. and +retire to their state-rooms, thus enjoying an unbroken night's +rest.</p> +<p>Sea-sickness is never met with on the Sound, and very rarely on +the voyage from Portland to San Francisco. On the Pacific, the ship +is never out of sight of land, and the sea is as smooth as a +mill-pond.</p> +<p>The heaviest swell encountered is going over the Columbia River +Bar. The ocean is uniformly placid during the summer months. The +trip, with its freedom from the dust, rush, and roar of a train, +and the inexorable restraint one always feels on the cars, is a +delightful one, and with larger comforts and more luxurious +surroundings, one enjoys the added pleasure of courteous and +thoughtful service from the various officers of the ship.</p> +<p>Taking the "Columbia" as a sample of the class of steamships in +the Union Pacific fleet, we notice that she is 334 feet long, 2,200 +horse-power, nearly 3,000 tonnage, has 65 state-rooms, and can +accommodate 200 saloon and 200 steerage passengers. Steam heat and +electric light are used. In 1880 the first plant from Edison's +factory was put on board the "Columbia," at that time a great +curiosity, she being the first ship to use the incandescent +light.</p> +<center> +<h3>CRATER LAKE.</h3></center> +<img src="Images/07Crater.jpg" alt="CRATER LAKE, ORE." height="442" +width="246" align="right" hspace="20" vspace="2"> +<p>Crater Lake is situate in the northwestern portion of Klamath +county, Oregon, and is best reached by leaving the Southern Pacific +Railroad at Medford, which is 328 miles south of Portland, and +about ninety miles from the lake, which can be reached by a very +good wagon road. The lake is about six miles wide by seven miles +long, but it is not its size which is its beauty or its attraction. +The surface of the water in the lake is 6,251 feet above the level +of the sea, and is surrounded by cliffs or walls from 1,000 to over +2,000 feet in height, and which are scantily covered with timber, +and which offer at but one point a way of reaching the water. The +depth of the water is very great, and it is very transparent, and +of a deep blue color. Toward the southwestern portion of the lake +is Wizard Island, 845 feet high, circular in shape, and slightly +covered with timber. In the top of this island is a depression, or +crater—the Witches' Caldron—100 feet deep, and 475 feet +in diameter, which was evidently the last smoking chimney of a once +mighty volcano, and which is now covered within, as without, with +volcanic rocks. North of this island, and on the west side of the +lake, is Llao Rock, reaching to a height of 2,000 feet above the +water, and so perpendicular that a stone may be dropped from its +summit to the waters at its base, nearly one-half mile below.</p> +<p>So far below the surrounding mountains is the surface of the +waters in this lake, that the mountain breezes but rarely ripple +them; and looking from the surrounding wall, the sky and cliffs are +seen mirrored in the glassy surface, and it is with difficulty the +eye can distinguish the line where the cliffs leave off and their +reflected counterfeits begin.</p> +<center> +<h3>OREGON NATIONAL PARK.</h3></center> +<p>Townships 27, 28, 29, 30, and 31, in Ranges 5 and 6 east of the +Willamette meridian, are asked to be set apart as the Oregon +National Park. This area contains Crater Lake and its approaches. +The citizens of Oregon unanimously petitioned the President for the +reservation of this park, and a bill in conformity with the +petition passed the United States Senate in February, 1888.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr size="4" width="50%" align="center"> +<center> +<h4><i>Third Tour—</i></h4> +<p>From Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and +Tacoma.</p></center> +<p> </p> +<h3>WASHINGTON</h3> +<p>is 340 miles long by about 240 wide. The first actual settlement +by Americans was made at Tumwater in 1845. Prior to this, the +country was known only to trappers and fur traders. Territorial +government was organized in 1853, and Washington was admitted as a +State, November, 1889. The State is almost inexhaustibly rich in +coal and lumber, and has frequently been called the "Pennsylvania +of the Pacific Coast." The precious metals are also found in +abundance in many districts. The yield of wheat is prodigious. +Apples, pears, apricots, plums, prunes, peaches, cherries, grapes, +and all berries flourish in the greatest profusion. Certain it is +that there is no other locality where trees bear so early and +surely as here, and where the fruit is of greater excellence, and +where there are so few drawbacks. At the Centennial Exposition, +Washington Territory fruit-tables were the wonder of visitors and +an attractive feature of the grand display. This Territory carried +off seventeen prizes in a competitive contest where thirty-three +States were represented.</p> +<p>It is a pleasant journey of 150 miles through the pine forests +from Portland to Tacoma. Any one of the splendid steamers of the +Union Pacific may be taken for a trip to Victoria. Leaving Tacoma +in the morning, we sail over that noble sheet of water, Puget +Sound. The hills on either side are darkly green, the Sound +widening slowly as we go. Seattle is reached in three hours, a busy +town of 35,000 people, full of vim, push, and energy. Twenty +million dollars' worth of property went up in flame and smoke in +Seattle's great fire of June 6, 1889. The ashes were scarcely cold +when her enthusiastic citizens began to build anew, better, +stronger, and more beautiful than before. A city of brick, stone, +and iron has arisen, monumental evidence of the energy, pluck, and +perseverance of the people, and of their fervent faith in the +future of Seattle. Then Port Townsend, with its beautiful harbor +and gently sloping bluffs, "the city of destiny," beyond all doubt, +of any of the towns on the Sound. Favored by nature in many ways, +Townsend has the finest roadstead and the best anchorage ground in +these waters, and this must tell in the end, when advantages for +sea trade are considered. Victoria, B.C., is reached in the +evening, and we sleep that night in Her Majesty's dominions. The +next day may be spent very pleasantly in driving and walking about +the city, a handsome town of 14,000 people.</p> +<p> </p> +<center><img src="Images/08Cascades.jpg" alt= +"CASCADES FROM THE OREGON SHORE" height="285" width="509"></center> +<p>A thorough system of macadamized roads radiates from Victoria, +furnishing about 100 miles of beautiful drives. Many of these +drives are lined with very handsome suburban residences, surrounded +with lawns and parks. Esquimalt, near Victoria, has a fine harbor. +This is the British naval station where several iron-clads are +usually stationed. There is also an extensive dry-dock, hewn out of +the solid rock, capacious enough to receive large vessels.</p> +<p>In the evening after dinner, one can return to the steamer and +take possession of a stateroom, for the boat leaves at four in the +morning. When breakfast time comes we are well on our return trip, +and moving past Port Townsend again. The majestic straits of Fuca, +through which we have passed, are well worth a visit; it is a taste +of being at sea without any discomfort, for the water is without a +ripple. As we steam homeward there is a vision which has been +described for all time by a master hand. "One becomes aware of a +vast, white shadow in the water. It is a giant mountain dome of +snow in the depths of tranquil blue. The smoky haze of an Oregon +August hid all the length of its lesser ridges and left this mighty +summit based upon uplifting dimness. Only its splendid snows were +visible high in the unearthly regions of clear, noonday sky. Kingly +and alone stood this majesty without any visible comrade, though +far to the north and south there were isolated sovereigns. This +regal gem the Christians have dubbed Mount Rainier, but more +melodious is its Indian name, 'Tacoma.'"</p> +<center> +<h3>A LEGEND OF TACOMA.</h3></center> +<p>Theodore Winthrop, in his own brilliant way, tells a quaint +legend of Tacoma, as related to him by a frowsy Siwash at +Nisqually. "Tamanous," among the native Indians of this section, is +a vague and half-personified type of the unknown and mysterious +forces of Nature. There is the one all-pervading Tamanous, but +there are a thousand emanations, each one a tamanous with a small +"t." Each Indian has his special tamanous, who thus becomes "the +guide, philosopher, and friend" of every Siwash. The tamanous, or +totem, types himself as a salmon, a beaver, an elk, a canoe, a +fir-tree, and so on indefinitely. In some of its features this +legend resembles strongly the immortal story of Rip Van Winkle; it +may prove interesting as a study in folk-lore.</p> +<blockquote> +<p>"Avarice, O, Boston tyee!" quoth the Siwash, studying me with +dusky eyes, "is a mighty passion. Know you that our first +circulating medium was shells, a small perforated shell not unlike +a very opaque quill toothpick, tapering from the middle, and cut +square at both ends. We string it in many strands and hang it +around the neck of one we love—namely, each man his own neck. +And with this we buy what our hearts desire. Hiaqua, we call it, +and he who has most hiaqua is wisest and best of all the dwellers +on the Sound.</p> +<p>"Now, in old times there dwelt here an old man, a mighty hunter +and fisherman. And he worshipped hiaqua. And always this old man +thought deeply and communed with his wisdom, and while he waited +for elk or salmon he took advice within himself from his +demon—he talked with tamanous. And always his question was, +'How may I put hiaqua in my purse?' But never had Tamanous revealed +to him the secret. There loomed Tacoma, so white and glittering +that it seemed to stare at him very terribly and mockingly, and to +know of his shameful avarice, and how it led him to take from +starving women their cherished lip and nose jewels of hiaqua, and +give them in return tough scraps of dried elk-meat and salmon. His +own peculiar tamanous was the elk. One day he was hunting on the +sides of Tacoma, and in that serene silence his tamanous began to +talk to his soul. 'Listen!' said tamanous—and then the great +secret of untold wealth was revealed to him. He went home and made +his preparations, told his old, ill-treated squaw he was going for +a long hunt, and started off at eventide. The next night he camped +just below the snows of Tacoma, but sunrise and he struck the +summit together, for there, tamanous had revealed to him, was +hiaqua—hiaqua that should make him the greatest and richest +of his tribe. He looked down and saw a hollow covered with snow, +save at the centre, where a black lake lay deep in a well of purple +rock, and at one end of the lake were three large stones or +monuments. Down into the crater sprang the miser, and the morning +sunshine followed him. He found the first stone shaped like a +salmon head; the second like a kamas root, and the third, to his +great joy, was the carven image of an elk's head. This was his own +tamanous, and right joyous was he at the omen, so taking his +elk-horn pick he began to dig right sturdily at the foot of the +monument. At the sound of the very first blow he made, thirteen +gigantic otters came out of the black lake and, sitting in a +circle, watched him. And at every thirteenth blow they tapped the +ground with their tails in concert The miser heeded them not, but +labored lustily for hours. At last, overturning a thin scale of +rock, he found a square cavity filled to the brim with hiaqua.</p> +<p>"He was a millionaire.</p> +<p>"The otters retired to a respectful distance, recognizing him as +a favorite of Tamanous.</p> +<p>"He reveled in the treasure, exulting. Deep as he could plunge +his arm, there was still more hiaqua below. It was strung upon elk +sinews, fifty shells on a string. But he saw the noon was passed, +so he prepared to depart. He loaded himself with countless strings +of hiaqua, by fifties and hundreds, so that he could scarcely +stagger along. Not a string did he hang on the tamanous of the elk, +or the salmon, or the kamas—not one—but turned eagerly +toward his long descent. At once all the otters plunged back into +the lake and began to beat the waters with their tails; a thick, +black mist began to rise threateningly. Terrible are the storms in +the mountains—and Tamanous was in this one. Instantly the +fierce whirlwind overtook the miser. He was thrown down and flung +over icy banks, but he clung to his precious burden. Utter night +was around him, and in every crash and thunder of the gale was a +growing undertone which he well knew to be the voice of Tamanous. +Floating upon this undertone were sharper tamanous voices, shouting +and screaming, always sneeringly, 'Ha, ha, hiaqua!—ha, ha, +ha!' Whenever the miser attempted to continue his descent the +whirlwind caught him and tossed him hither and thither, flinging +him into a pinching crevice, burying him to the eyes in a snow +drift, throwing him on jagged boulders, or lacerating him on sharp +lava jaws. But he held fast to his hiaqua. The blackness grew ever +deeper and more crowded with perdition; the din more impish, +demoniac, and devilish; the laughter more appalling; and the miser +more and more exhausted with vain buffeting. He at last thought to +propitiate exasperated Tamanous, and threw away a string of hiaqua. +But the storm was renewed blacker, louder, crueler than before. +String by string he parted with his treasure, until at the last, +sorely wounded, terrified, and weak, with a despairing cry, he cast +from him the last vestige of wealth, and sank down insensible.</p> +<p>"It seemed a long slumber to him, but at last he woke. He was +upon the very spot whence he started at morning. He felt hungry, +and made a hearty breakfast of the chestnut-like bulbs of the kamas +root, and took a smoke. Reflecting on the events of yesterday, he +became aware of an odd change in his condition. He was not bruised +and wounded, as he expected, but very stiff only, and his joints +creaked like the creak of a lazy paddle on the rim of a canoe. His +hair was matted and reached a yard down his back. 'Tamanous,' +thought the old man. But chiefly he was conscious of a mental +change. He was calm and content. Hiaqua and wealth seemed to have +lost their charm for him. Tacoma, shining like gold and silver and +precious stones of gayest lustre, seemed a benign comrade and +friend. All the outer world was cheerful, and he thought he had +never wakened to a fresher morning. He rose and started on his +downward way, but the woods seemed strangely transformed since +yesterday; just before sunset he came to the prairie where his +lodge used to be; he saw an old squaw near the door crooning a +song; she was decked with many strings of hiaqua and costly beads. +It was his wife; and she told him he had been gone many, many +years—she could not tell how many; that she had remained +faithful and constant to him, and distracted her mind from the +bitterness of sorrow by trading in kamas and magic herbs, and had +thus acquired a genteel competence. But little cared the sage for +such things; he, was rejoiced to be at home and at peace, and near +his own early gains of hiaqua and treasure buried in a place of +security. He imparted whatever he possessed—material +treasures or stores of wisdom and experience—freely to all +the land. Every dweller came to him for advice how to spear the +salmon, chase the elk, or propitiate Tamanous. He became the great +medicine man of the Siwashes and a benefactor to his tribe and +race. Within a year after he came down from his long nap on the +side of Tacoma, a child, my father, was born to him. The sage lived +many years, revered and beloved, and on his death-bed told this +history to my father as a lesson and a warning. My father dying, +told it to me. But I, alas! have no son; I grow old, and lest this +wisdom perish from the earth, and Tamanous be again obliged to +interpose against avarice, I tell the tale to thee, O Boston tyee. +Mayst thou and thy nation not disdain this lesson of an earlier +age, but profit by it and be wise!"</p></blockquote> +<p>So far the Siwash recounted his legend without the palisades of +Fort Nisqually, and motioning, in expressive pantomime, at the +close, that he was dry with big talk and would gladly "wet his +whistle."</p> +<p> </p> +<center><img src="Images/09RoosterRock.jpg" alt= +"ROOSTER ROCK, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE." height="309" width= +"565"></center> +<p>The town of Tacoma contains about 15,000 inhabitants, and is in +a highly prosperous condition. From here one may start on the grand +Alaskan tour, winding up through all the wonders of sound and +strait, bay and ocean, to the far North summerland—a trip of +most entrancing interest. The return from Tacoma to Portland may be +made by either rail or boat.</p> +<p>So much has already been said in preceding pages about Puget +Sound that it would seem the subject might be somewhat overdone. +But it still remains to be said that justice can never be done to +the scenic glories of this beautiful inland sea. The views from +different points, and from almost every point on the Sound, are of +sublime grandeur. On the east are the Cascade Mountains, ranging +from 5,000 to 14,444 feet in height, Mount Rainier for Tacoma, (as +it is also called) being of the latter altitude, and only third in +height of the mountains of the United States. On the west are the +Olympic Mountains, the highest peaks of which reach up to 8,000 +feet. Both ranges, brilliantly snow-crowned, are within view at the +same time from various points, and the scenery in its entirety, +with its continual changefulness and features of sublimity, can not +be excelled. Strangers and travelers who have visited every part of +the world never leave the deck of the steamers while going through +the waters of the Sound country. In noting a single feature, Mount +Rainier, Senator George F. Edmunds wrote as follows: "I have been +through the Swiss mountains, and am compelled to own that there is +no comparison between the finest effects exhibited there and what +is seen in approaching this grand and isolated mountain. I would be +willing to go 500 miles again to see that scene. The Continent is +yet in ignorance of what will be one of the grandest show places, +as well as sanitariums. If Switzerland is rightly called the +play-ground of Europe, I am satisfied that around the base of Mt. +Rainier will become a prominent place of resort, not for America +only, but for the world besides, with thousands of sites for +building purposes that are nowhere excelled for the grandeur of the +view that can be obtained from them, with topographical features +that would make the most perfect system of drainage both possible +and easy, and with a most agreeable and health-giving climate."</p> +<p>A more enthusiastic writer says: "Puget Sound scenery is the +grandest scenery in the world. One has here in combination the +sublimity of Switzerland, the picturesqueness of the Rhine, the +rugged beauty of Norway, the breezy variety of the Thousand Islands +of the St. Lawrence, or the Hebrides of the North Sea, the soft, +rich-toned skies of Italy, the pastoral landscape of England, with +velvet meadows and magnificent groves, massed with floral bloom, +and the blending tints and bold color of the New England Indian +summer. Features with which nothing within the vision of another +city can be placed in comparison are the Olympic range of mountains +in front of Seattle, and the sublime snow peaks of the Rainier, +Baker, Adams, and St. Helens, with their glaciers and robes of +eternal white, and the great falls of the Snoqualmie, 280 feet +high, near by."</p> +<center><img src="Images/10StHelens.jpg" alt="MOUNT ST. HELENS" +height="329" width="598"></center> +<p>The geography and topography of this sheet are alone a wonder +and a study. Glance upon the map. The elements of earth and water +seem to have struggled for dominion one over the other. The Strait +of Juan de Fuca and the Gulf of Georgia to the south narrow into +Admiralty Inlet; the inlet penetrates the very heart of the +Territory, cutting the land into most grotesque shapes, circling +and twisting into a hundred minor inlets, into which flow a hundred +rivers, fed in their turn by myriads of smaller creeks and +bayous—a veritable network of lakes, streams, peninsulas, and +islands which, with the mountain ranges backing the landscapes on +either hand, can not fail to be picturesque in the extreme. Here on +the placid bosom of this inland sea, the pleasure seeker can enjoy +all the delights and exhilarating influences of ocean travel +without its inconveniences. No sea sickness, no proneness to +reflect on "to be or not to be," but, amid the bracing breezes, the +steady, easy glide of the commodious steamer over pleasant waters, +takes him through scenes as fair as the poet's brightest dreams. +This "Mediterranean of the Pacific" throughout its length and +breadth is adorned with heavily-wooded and fantastically-formed +islands. The giant firs are the tallest and straightest in the +world. Here the "Great Eastern" came for her masts, and here +thousands of ships obtain their spars yearly.</p> +<p>To repeat, the scenery is indeed something unsurpassed. A ride +over these placid waters, in and out, around rocky headlands, among +woody mountains, along beautiful beaches and graceful tongues of +velvety meadows—all 'neath the shadows of towering, snow-clad +peaks, is a delight worth days of travel to experience. It +enraptures the artist and enthuses even ordinarily prosy folks. +There is no single feature wanting to make of such places as +Tacoma, Seattle, and Port Townsend, the most delightful and +agreeable watering places in the world. Surrounded by magnificent +and picturesque scenery, with beautiful drives and lovely bays for +yachting purposes, with splendid fishing and sport of every +description to be had, with a climate that would charm a +misanthrope, why should they not become the favorite resorts on the +Great West Coast? These facts led to the building of the +magnificent Hotel Tacoma, at a cost of a quarter of a million +dollars. Other such caravansaries will follow, and in time Puget +Sound will be famous the world over for its incomparable +attractions for the health and pleasure seeker.</p> +<p>The average traveler has but a faint idea of the wonderful +resources of this grand empire. Puget Sound has about 1,800 miles +of shore line, and all along this long stretch is one vast and +almost unbroken forest of enormous trees. The forests are so vast +that, although the saw-mills have been ripping 500,000,000 feet of +lumber out of them every year for the past ten years, the spaces +made by these inroads seem no more than garden patches. An official +estimate places the amount of standing timber in that area at +500,000,000,000 feet, or a thousand years' supply, even at the +enormous rate the timber is now being felled and sawed.</p> +<p>In the vicinity of Olympia, the capital of Washington, are a +number of popular resorts for sportsmen and campers—beautiful +lakes filled with voracious trout, and streams alive with the +speckled mountain beauties. The forests abound in bear and deer, +while grouse, pheasants, quail, and water-fowl afford fine sport to +the hunter of small game.</p> +<center> +<h3>THE NEW EMPIRE OF EASTERN WASHINGTON.</h3></center> +<p>The recent extensions of the Union Pacific System have aided in +the most important way the development of the richest and most +fertile lands of Eastern Washington. The great plains of the Upper +Columbia, stretching from the river away to the far north, are +incomparably rich, the soil of great depth and wondrous fertility, +rainless harvests, and a luxuriance of farm and garden produce +which is almost tropical in its wealth. This favored region has +been for years known as the</p> +<center> +<h3>PALOUSE COUNTRY,</h3></center> +<p>and is reached from Portland via Pendleton, on the main line of +the Union Pacific Ry. From Pendleton to Spokane Falls on the north +the soil is rich beyond belief; a black, loamy deposit so deep that +it seems well-nigh inexhaustible. This heavy soil predominates in +the valleys, and while the uplands are not so rich, still immense +crops of wheat are raised. For hundreds of miles on this new +division of the Union Pacific the country is a perfect garden land +of wheat and fruit, and these farms are often of mammoth +proportions. Here are 13,000,000 acres of land possessing all the +requirements and advantages of climate and soil for the making of +one vast wheat-field. The enormous yield of 7,000,000 bushels of +wheat has been harvested in one valley.</p> +<p>The authentic figures of the crop yield in this splendid country +seem almost incredible. Fifty thousand bushels of wheat have been +raised on 1,000 acres of land. As low as 35 bushels and as high as +74¼ bushels of wheat to the acre have been harvested in this +section. The average covered seems to be from 47 to 55 bushels per +acre, and no fertilizers of any sort being required. The berry in +its full maturity is very solid, weighing from 65 to 69 pounds per +bushel, this being from five to nine pounds over standard weight. +While wheat is the staple product, oats are also grown, the yield +being very heavy. Rye, barley, and flax are also successfully +cultivated. Clover, bunch-grass, and alfalfa grow finely.</p> +<p>In the growing of fruits and vegetables this grand empire of +Eastern Washington is quite unsurpassed. At one of the recent +agricultural fairs a farmer exhibited 109 varieties of fruits, +vegetables, and cereals. These included the best qualities of +Yellow Nansemond sweet potatoes, mammoth melons of all varieties, +eggplant, sorghum and syrup cane, broom-corn, tobacco, grapes, +cotton, peanuts, and many other things, some of which do not attain +to so high a degree of excellence elsewhere farther north than the +Carolinas. Peaches, apples, and prunes of superior quality +delighted the eye. Peaches had been marketed continuously, from, +the same orchards, from the 15th of July to the 15th of October. +There were hanging in the pavilion diplomas awarded at the New +Orleans Exposition to citizens in this valley for exhibits of the +best qualities and greatest varieties of corn, wheat, oats, barley, +and hops.</p> +<p>The advantage to the farmer of rainless harvesting months is +obvious. The wheat is all harvested by headers, leaving the straw +on the ground for its enrichment. Thus binding, hauling, and +sacking are largely dispensed with. The grain, when threshed, is +piled on the ground in jute sacks, saving the expense of granaries +and hauling to and from them. These jute sacks cost for each bushel +of grain about 3 cents, which is far less than farmers elsewhere +are subjected to in hauling their grain to and from granaries and +through a system of elevators until it reaches shipboard.</p> +<p>Here, as well as in Western Washington, most vegetables grow to +an enormous size, and are of superior quality when compared with +the same varieties grown in the East. Those kinds that require much +heat, as melons, tobacco, peppers, egg-plants, etc., grow to great +perfection. The root crops—beets, carrots, parsnips, +potatoes, turnips, etc.—yield prodigiously on the fertile +bottom-land soils, without much care besides ordinary cultivation. +The table beet soon gets too large for the dinner-pot. It is +nothing unusual for a garden beet to weigh ten pounds, and they +often grow to eighteen or twenty pounds' weight. Mangel wurzel, the +stock beet, sometimes grows to forty and fifty pounds' weight, if +given room and proper cultivation. They may easily be made to +produce twenty-five tons per acre on good soil. All other +vegetables, such as parsnips, carrots, peas, beans, tomatoes, +onions, cabbages, celery, and cauliflower, are perfectly at home on +every farm of Eastern Washington. Market gardening is becoming +quite an important pursuit, and holds out particularly high +inducements to the farmer, because of the superb market now +afforded by the non-producing mineral and timber regions, easily +accessible in this and adjacent Territories.</p> +<p>There are over 2,000 square miles of arable land in this +magnificent region, and there has never been a crop failure since +its settlement. Outside of Government lands prices range at from $4 +to $10 per acre for unimproved, and from $12 to $20 for improved +lands.</p> +<p><img src="Images/11HorseTail.jpg" alt="HORSE TAIL FALLS, ORE." +height="466" width="230" align="left" hspace="20" vspace="2">Along +the line of Union Pacific in this grand new empire will be found +many energetic, thriving young towns, all possessing those social +and educational facilities which are now a part of every Western +village. Pendleton, on the main line, is a wide-awake, bustling +young city, situated in a fine agricultural district. Walla Walla, +Athena, Weston, Waitsburg, Dayton, Pullman, Garfield, Latah, Tekoa, +Colfax, Moscow, Farmington, and Rockford are all thriving towns, +and are already good distributing centers. The last-named town +enjoys the advantage of being in the center of a fine lumber +district, and within a circuit of five miles from Rockford there +are ten saw-mills, besides an inexhaustible supply of mica. +Crossing the border into Idaho, rich silver and lead mines are +found along the Coeur d'Alene River.</p> +<p>Rockford is twenty-four miles from Spokane Falls, and has about +1,000 population; its elevation is 2,440 feet. Four miles distant +is the boundary of the Coeur d'Alene Reservation, a lovely tract, +thirty by seventy miles in extent, embracing beautiful Coeur +d'Alene Lake and the three rivers, St. Joseph, St. Marys, and Coeur +d'Alene, which empty into it. There about 250 Indians on this +reservation, and they enjoy the proud distinction of being the only +tribe who refuse Government aid. They have been offered the usual +rations, but preferred to remain independent. They live in houses, +farm quite extensively, and use all kinds of improved farm +machinery; many of them are quite wealthy. The lake is one of the +prettiest sheets of water on the continent; its waters are full of +salmon, and in the heavy pine woods are many varieties of game, +from quail to grizzly bear and elk. The town of Rockford will in +the near future assume importance as a tourist point, both from its +own healthy and picturesque location, and its nearness to Coeur +d'Alene Lake. A Government Commission is now at work on a +settlement with the Indians, whereby the whole or a part of this +noble domain will be thrown open to the public. The peculiar +attractions of Coeur d'Alene must in a short time render it a much +sought for resort.</p> +<center> +<h3>SPOKANE FALLS</h3></center> +<p>is one of those miracles possible only in the alert, aggressive +West. When Mr. Hayes was inaugurated it was a blank wilderness. Not +a single civilized being lived within a hundred miles of it. One +day in 1878 a white man came along in a "bull team," saw the wild +rapids and the mighty falls of the Spokane River, reflected on the +history of St. Paul and Minneapolis with their little Falls of St. +Anthony, looked at the tide of immigration just turning toward the +farther Northwest, and concluded he would sit right down where he +was and wait for a city to grow around him. This far-sighted +pioneer is still living within earshot of those rumbling falls, and +they make a cheerful music for him. The city is there with him, +22,000 people, and he can draw a check to-day good for $1,000,000. +For several years his eyes fell on nothing but gravel-beds and +foamy waters. Now, as he looks around, he sees mills and factories, +railroad lines to the north, south, east, and west, churches, +theatres, school-houses, costly dwellings and stores, paved +streets, and all that makes living easy and comfortable. The +greater part of this has come within his vision since 1883. But +even then there was quite a village. After this pioneer had spent a +lonely year or two on his homestead, two other men came along. They +were friends, who, upon an outing, had chanced to meet. They were +captivated by the waterfall, and by what the pioneer told them of +the fine fanning lands in the adjacent country, and they offered +each to take a third of his holding. Then they began to advertise, +and to place adventurous farmers on homestead claims. They were +wise in their day and generation, and they worked harder to fill +the country with grain-producers than to sell real estate around +the falls. They soon had their reward. The merchants were quickly +provided with store-houses, rental values were kept low, every +inducement was offered that could possibly stimulate building +activity, and in three years the farming country was made to +perceive that Spokane was its natural point of entry and of +shipment. The turbulent waters of the Spokane River, a clear and +beautiful mountain stream, were caught above the falls, and +directed wherever the factories and mills that had been established +above them required their services. Four large flouring-mills +quickly took advantage of the rich opportunity growing out of this +unique situation.</p> +<p>From two enormous agricultural areas they are enabled to draw +their supplies of grain, flour, therefore, being manufactured for +the farmers more cheaply at Spokane: than anywhere else. This +circumstance alone exercised a large influence in giving the new +town a hold upon the country districts. These constitute more than +a region—they are really a grand division of the State, and +form what is known as the Great Plain of the Columbia River.</p> +<center> +<h3>THE COEUR D'ALENE MINES</h3></center> +<p>have reached a high and profitable state of development. These +mines extend over a comparatively limited area. They are close +together, and their ores, producing gold, silver, and lead, are all +similar. Their output for the last three years has been quite +remarkable, and has placed the Coeur d'Alene district among the +foremost lead-producing regions in the country. Gold, associated +with iron, and treated by the free-milling process, is largely +found in the northern part of the district, but the greatest amount +of tonnage is derived from the southern country, where the Galena +silver mines, a dozen or more in number, have been discovered. That +minerals in large quantity existed in this country has been known +for years. But the want of railroad facilities for a long while +prevented any serious effort to get at them. The matter of +transportation is now laid at rest, and within the last three years +$1,000,000 has been spent in development. The returns have already +more than justified the investment.</p> +<p>Tributary to Spokane, and reached by the various railroads now +in operation, are five other mining districts, at Colville, +Okanagan, Kootenai, Metaline, and Pend d'Oreille. They are in +various stages of development, but their wealth and availability +have been clearly ascertained. Spokane's population, in a degree +greater than that of most all these new cities, consists of young +men and young women from the New England and Middle States. They +have enjoyed a remarkable and wholly uninterrupted period of +prosperity. Some of them have grown quickly and immensely rich from +real estate operations, but the great majority have yet to realize +on their investments because of the large sacrifices they have made +in building up the city. They are to-day in an admirable position. +As they have made money they have spent it; spent it in street +railroads, in the laying out of drives, in the building of +comfortable houses, in the establishment of electrical plants, and +in a large number of local improvements, every one of which has +borne its part in making the city attractive.</p> +<center> +<h3>WONDERFUL VITALITY.</h3></center> +<p>It has been well said of Spokane Falls, that "it was another +fire-devastated city that did not seem to know it was hurt."</p> +<img src="Images/12Oneonta.jpg" alt="ONEONTA GORGE" height="503" +width="254" align="right" hspace="20" vspace="2"> +<p>If Washington can stand the loss of millions of dollars in its +four great fires of the year, at Cheney, Ellensburg, Seattle, and +Spokane, it is the strongest evidence that its recuperative powers +have solid backing. It does seem to stand the loss, and actually +thrive under it.</p> +<p>The great fire at Spokane Falls on the 4th of August, 1889, +burned most of the business portion of the city. Four hundred and +fifty houses of brick, stone, and wood were destroyed, entailing a +loss, according to the computation of the local agent of R.G. Dun +& Co., of about $4,500,000.</p> +<p>The insurance in the burned district amounted to $2,600,000.</p> +<p>No people were ever in better condition to meet disaster, and +none ever met it with braver hearts or with quicker and more +resolute determination to survive the blow.</p> +<p>The city was in the midst of a period of marvelous prosperity. +Its population was increasing rapidly, many fine buildings were in +process of construction, its trade was extending over a vast region +of country which was being penetrated by new railroads centering +within its limits, and there were flowing to it the rich fruits of +half a dozen prosperous mining districts.</p> +<p>Its working people were all employed at good wages, and money +was abundant with all classes.</p> +<p>Hardly had the sun of the day following the fire risen upon the +scene of smoking desolation, when preparations began for +rebuilding. It was felt at once that the city would be rebuilt more +substantially and more handsomely than before.</p> +<p>The rebuilding of Spokane commenced on a very extensive scale; +the city will be entirely restored within twelve months, and far +more attractively than ever before. The class of buildings erected +are of a very superior character. The new Opera House has been +modeled after the Broadway Theatre, New York; the new Hotel +Spokane, a structure creditable not only to the city, but to the +entire Pacific Northwest; five National Bank buildings, at a cost +of $100,000 each; upon the burned district have arisen buildings +solid in substance, and beautiful architecturally, varying from +five to seven stories in height, and costing all the way from +$60,000 to $300,000. This sturdy young giant of the North arises +from her ashes stronger, more attractive, more substantial, than +before. And there is abundant reason for solid faith in the future +of Spokane Falls.</p> +<p>It is the metropolis of a region 200,000 square miles in extent, +including 50,000 square miles of Washington, or all that portion +east of the Cascade Mountains, more than half of Idaho, the +northern and eastern portions of Oregon, a large part of Montana, +and as much of British Columbia as would make a State as large as +New York.</p> +<p>It is the distributing point for the Coeur d'Alene, the +Colville, the Kootenai, and the Okanagan mining districts, all of +which are in a prosperous condition, and all of which are yielding +rich and growing tributes of trade.</p> +<p>It has adjacent to it the finest wheat-growing country in the +world, producing from 30 to 60 bushels per acre.</p> +<p>It has adjacent to it a country equally rich in the production +of fruits and vegetables.</p> +<p>It has adjacent to it the finest meadow lands between the +Cascade and Rocky Mountains.</p> +<p>It has adjacent to it extensive grazing lands, on which are +hundreds of thousands of cattle, sheep, and horses.</p> +<p>It has, adjacent to it, on Lakes Pend d'Oreille and Coeur +d'Alene, inexhaustible quantities of white pine, yellow pine, cedar +and tamarack, the manufacturing of which into lumber is one of the +important industries of the city, and a source of great future +income.</p> +<p>It has a power in the falls of the Spokane River second to none +in the United States, and capable of supplying construction room +and power for 300 different mills and manufactories. The entire +electric lighting plant of the city, the cable railway system, the +electric railway system, the machinery for the city water works, +and all the mills and factories of the city—the amount of +wheat which was last year ground into flour exceeding 20,000 +tons—are now operated by the power from the falls. One +company alone, the Washington Water Power Company, having a capital +of $1,000,000, is now spending upward of $300,000 in the +construction of flumes and other improvements for the accommodation +of new mills and factories.</p> +<p>Most fortunately for the city, all the milling properties and +improvements on the falls and along the river were saved from the +fire.</p> +<p>The city has a water-works system which cost nearly half a +million dollars, and which is capable of supplying 12,000,000 +gallons daily, or as much as the supply of Minneapolis when it had +a population of 100,000, or as much as the present supply of Denver +with a population of 120,000, and more than the City of Portland, +Oregon, with a population of 60,000.</p> +<center> +<h3>A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SPOKANE FALLS.</h3></center> +<p>It requires no very profound knowledge of Western geography, no +very lengthy study of the State of Washington, to enable anyone to +understand without difficulty some of the minor reasons why Spokane +Falls should become a great and important city, the metropolis of a +vast surrounding country. A glance at the map will show the +mountain range that extends up through the Idaho Panhandle, and +then along the British Columbia frontier, to the east and north of +the city. These mountains are incalculably rich in ores of all +kinds, and would amply suffice to make a Denver of Spokane Falls, +even if she had no other natural resources to draw from. The +Spokane River is the outlet of Lake Coeur d'Alene, a sheet of water +sixty miles by six, which is fed by the St. Joseph, St. Mary and +Coeur d'Alene Rivers, and which flows through a vast plain until it +empties its waters into the Columbia, the Mississippi of the +Pacific Coast. From its point of junction with the Spokane, the +Columbia makes a big bend in its course until the Snake River is +reached, when it turns once more westward, and flows on to empty +into the Pacific Ocean. South of the city, stretching westward for +some distance from the mountains, and extending in a southerly +direction to the Clearwater and Snake Rivers, is a vast country +comprising millions of acres, through which the Palouse River and +its tributary streams meander, and which is known as the Palouse +Valley, a country of unlimited agricultural resources. In the +center of all this immense territory is located Spokane Falls, like +the hub in the center of a wheel. The word immense is not used +unwittingly, for the mountains and plains and valleys make up a +country that in Europe would be called a nation, and in New England +would form a State. Only a far-off corner of the Union, it may seem +to some readers, yet there are powerful empires which possess less +natural resources than it can call its own. The city itself lies on +both sides of the Spokane River, at the point where that stream, +separated by rocky islands into five separate channels, rushes +onward and downward, at first being merely a series of rapids, and +then tumbling over the rocks in a number of beautiful and useful +waterfalls, until the several streams unite once again for a final +plunge of sixty feet, making a fall of 157 feet in the distance of +half a mile. This waterfall, with its immense power, would alone +make a city; engineers have estimated its force at 90,000 +horse-power, and it is so distributed that it can be easily +utilized.</p> +<center><img src="Images/13FishWheel.jpg" alt= +"A FISH WHEEL, COLUMBIA RIVER" height="300" width="528"></center> +<p> </p> +<hr size="4" width="50%" align="center"> +<center> +<h4><i>Fourth Tour</i>—To</h4></center> +<h3>ALASKA.</h3> +<p>The native islanders called the mainland "Al-ay-ek-sa," which +signifies "great country," and the word has been corrupted into +"Alaska." This immense empire, it will be remembered, was sold by +Russia to the United States October 18, 1867, for $7,500,000. The +country was discovered by Vitus Behring in 1741. Alaska has an area +of 578,000 square miles, and is nearly one-fifth as large as all +the other States and Territories combined. It is larger than twelve +States the size of New York.</p> +<p>The best time to visit Alaska is from May to September. The +latter month is usually lovely, and the sea beautifully smooth, but +the days begin to grow short. The trip occupies about twenty-five +days.</p> +<p>As the rainfall in Alaska is usually very large, it naturally +follows that an umbrella is a convenient companion. A gossamer for +a lady and a mackintosh for a gentleman, and heavy shoes, and +coarse, warm and comfortable clothing for both should be +provided.</p> +<p>There are no "Palace" hotels in Alaska. One will have no desire +to remain over there a trip. The tourist goes necessarily when and +where the steamer goes, will have an opportunity to see all there +is of note or worth seeing in Southeastern Alaska. The steamer +sometimes goes north as far as Chilcat, say up to about the 58th +degree of north latitude. The pleasure is not so much in the +stopping as in the going. One is constantly passing through new +channels, past new islands, opening up new points of interest, +until finally a surfeit of the grand and magnificent in nature is +reached.</p> +<p>A correspondent of a western journal signing himself "Emerald" +has written a description of this Alaskan tour in September, 1888. +It is so charmingly done, so fresh, so vivid, and so full of +interesting detail, that it is given herewith entire:</p> +<blockquote> +<p>ON STEAMSHIP "GEORGE W. ELDER,"</p> +<p>PUGET SOUND, September, 1888.</p> +<p>We have all thought we were fairly appreciative of the wealth +and wonders of Uncle Sam's domain. At Niagara we have gloried in +the belief that all the cataracts of other lands were tame; but we +changed our mind when we stood on the brink of Great Shoshone +Falls. In Yellowstone the proudest thought was that all the world's +other similar wonders were commonplace; and at Yosemite's +Inspiration Point the unspeakable thrill of awe and delight was +richly heightened by the grand idea that there was no such majesty +or glory beyond either sea. But after all this, we now know that it +yet remains for the Alaskan trip to rightly round out one's +appreciation and admiration of the size and grandeur of our native +land.</p> +<p>Some of our most delighted <i>voyageurs</i> are from Portland, +Maine. When they had journeyed some 1,500 miles to Omaha they +imagined themselves at least half way across our continent. Then, +when they had finished that magnificent stretch of some 1,700 miles +more from Omaha to Portland, Oregon, in the palace cars of the +Union Pacific, they were quite sure of it. Of course, they +confessed a sense of mingled disappointment and eager anticipation +when they learned that they were yet less than half way. They +learned what is a fact—that the extreme west coast of Alaska +is as far west of Sitka as Portland, Maine, is east of Portland, +Oregon, and the further fact that San Francisco lacks 4,000 mile's +of being as far west as Uncle Sam's "Land's End," at extreme +Western Alaska. It is a great country; great enough to contain one +river—the Yukon—about as large as the Mississippi, and +a coast line about twice as long as all the balance of the United +States. It is twelve times as large as the State of New York, with +resources that astonish every visitor, and a climate not altogether +bad, as some would have it. The greatest trouble is that during the +eighteen years it has been linked to our chain of Territories it +has been treated like a discarded offspring or outcast, cared for +more by others than its lawful protector. But, like many a refugee, +it is carving for itself a place which others will yet envy. But, +to</p> +<h4>OUR TRIP.</h4> +<p>There are seven in our party, mainly from Chicago. After a week +of delightful mountaineering at Idaho Springs, in Platte +Cañon, and other Union Pacific resorts in Colorado, we +indulged in that delicious plunge at Garfield Beach, Salt Lake, +and, en route to Portland over the Union Pacific Ry., quaffed that +all but nectar at Soda Springs, Idaho, and dropped off a day to +take a peep, at Shoshone Falls, which, in all seriousness, have +attractions of which even our great Niagara can not boast. We found +that glorious dash down through the palisades of the Columbia, and +the sail, through the entrancing waterways of Puget Sound, a +fitting prelude to our recent Alaskan journey.</p> +<p>The Alaskan voyage is like a continuous dream of pleasure, so +placid and quiet are the waters of the landlocked sea and so +exquisitely beautiful the environment. The route keeps along the +east shore of Vancouver Island its entire length, through the Gulf +of Georgia, Johnstone strait, and out into Queen Charlotte Sound, +where is felt the first swell of old ocean, and our staunch +steamship "Elder" was rocked in its cradle for about four hours. +Oftentimes we seemed to be bound by mountains on every side, with +no hope of escape; but the faithful deck officer on watch would +give his orders in clear, full tones that brought the bow to some +passage leading to the great beyond. In narrow straits the steamer +had to wait for the tide; then would she weave in and out, like a +shuttle in a loom, among the buoys, leaving the black ones on the +left and the red ones on the right, and ever and anon they would be +in a straight line, with the wicked boulder-heads visible beneath +the surface or lifting their savage points above, compelling almost +a square corner to be turned in order to avoid them. At such times +the passengers were all on deck, listening to the captain's +commands, and watching the boat obey his bidding.</p> +<p>From Victoria to Tongas Narrows the distance is 638 miles, and +here was the first stop for the tourists. The event here was going +ashore in rowboats, and in the rain, only to see a few dirty +Indians—a foresight of what was to follow—and a +salmon-packing house not yet in working order.</p> +<p>From Tongas Narrows to Fort Wrangel, thousands of islands fill +the water, while the mainland is on the right and Prince of Wales +Island on the extreme left.</p> +<h4>FORT WRANGEL.</h4> +<p>Like all Alaska towns, it is situated at the base of lofty peaks +along the water's edge at the head of moderately pretty harbors. It +seems to be the generic home of storms, and the mountains, the +rocks, the buildings, and trees, and all, show the weird workings +of nature's wrath. In 1863 it was a thriving town where miners +outfitted for the mines of the Stikeen river and Cassian mines of +British Columbia; but that excitement has temporarily subsided, and +the $150,000 government buildings are falling in decay. The streets +are filled with debris, and everything betokens the ravages of +time. The largest and most grotesque totem poles seen on the trip +here towered a height of fifty feet. Those poles represent a +history of the family and the ancestry as far as they can trace it. +If they are of the Wolf tribe a huge wolf is carved at the top of +the pole, and then on down with various signs to the base, the +great events of the family and the intermarriages, not forgetting +to give place to the good and bad gods who assisted them. The +genealogy of a tribe is always traced back through the mother's +side. The totem poles are sometimes very large, perhaps four feet +at the base. When the carving is completed they are planted firmly +in front of the hut, there to stay until they fall away. At the +lower end, some four feet from the ground, there is an opening into +the already hollowed pole, and in this are put the bones of the +burned bodies of the family. It is only the wealthier families who +support a totem pole, and no amount of money can induce an Indian +to part with his family tree.</p> +<h4>THE GRAVES</h4> +<p>of those not having totems are found in clusters, or scattered +on the mountain sides, or anywhere convenience dictates. The bones +are put in a box with all the belongings of the deceased, and then +deposited anywhere. The natives are exceedingly superstitious and +jealous in their care of the dead, and would sooner die than molest +or steal from a grave. That tourists who are supposed to be +civilized, refined, and Christianized should steal from them is a +crime which should never be tolerated, as it was among the +passengers of our steamer.</p> +<h4>JUNEAU—THE TREADWELL MINE.</h4> +<p>After leaving Wrangel the steamer anchored off Salmon Bay to +lighter eighty tons of salt for fishermen, then on to Juneau and +Douglas Islands. Here was the same general appearance of location, +the gigantic background of densely wooded mountains, the +tide-washed streets, on broken slopes, the dirty native women with +their wares for sale, with prices advanced 200 per cent, since the +steamer whistled, and behind them their stern male companions, +goading them on to make their sales, and stealthily kicking them in +their crouched positions if they came down on their prices to an +eager but economical tourist.</p> +<p>Juneau is the only town of any importance on the mainland. It +has arisen to that dignity through the quality of its mines, and it +is now the mining centre of Alaska. Here we found Edward I. +Parsons, of San Francisco, erecting an endless-rope tramway for +conducting ores to a ten-stamp mill now under construction. Mr. +Parsons has had large experience in this line, and his tales of +"Tramway Life" in Mexico are intensely thrilling and full of +interest. It is to be hoped that the good people of Juneau will see +to it that he does not have to eat the native dishes, as he did in +the land of the greasers. The festive dog is all right in his +place, but rather revolting to an epicure.</p> +<p>The famous Treadwell gold mine lies across the bay, on Douglas +Island. It is noted, not so much for its richness per ton, but for +its vast extent. The 120-stamp mill makes such a deafening noise +that there is no fear that the curious minded will cause +employés to waste any time answering questions, for nothing +can be heard but the rise and fall of the great crushers and the +crunching of the ores. The ore is so plentiful that an addition of +120 stamps is being added to the present capacity. The hole blasted +by the miners looks like the crater of a huge volcano without the +circling top, and sloping down to an apex from which is the tunnel +to the mill. The Treadwell yields about $200,000 per month, and +will double that when the mill is completed.</p> +<p>There are many pleasant homes in Juneau, and some of its society +people are charming indeed. The business houses carry some large +stocks of goods, and outfitting for the interior mines in the Yukon +country is all done at this place. There are two weekly papers, one +the <i>Mining Record</i>, an eight-page, bright, newsy paper which +deserves a liberal support.</p> +<p>One of the most novel and grotesque features of the entire trip +was a dance given by the Indians at</p> +<h4>A "POTLATCH,"</h4> +<p>a term applied to any assemblage of good cheer, although in its +primary sense it means a gift. A potlatch is given at the outset, +or during the progress of some important event, such as the +building of a new house, confirming of a sub-chief, or celebrating +any good fortune, either of peace or war. In this instance, a +sub-chief was building a new house, and the frame work was inclosed +in rough boards with no floor laid. There is never but one entrance +to an Indian hut. This is in front, and elevated several feet from +the ground, so that you must go down from the door-sill inside as +well as out. No windows were yet in the building, and it was really +in a crude state. These grand festivities last five days, and this +was the second day of merry-making.</p> +<p>There are two tribes at Juneau, located at each extreme of the +town. The water was black with canoes coming to the feast and +dance, bringing gifts to the tyhee, who, in return, gives them +gifts according to their wealth, and a feast of boiled rice and +raisins and dog-meat. The richest men of the tribe dressed, in the +rear of the building, in the wildest and most fantastic garbs, some +in skins of wild animals. There was a full panoply of blankets, +feathers, guns, swords, knives, and, as a last resort, an old broom +was covered with a scarlet case. Jingling pendant horns added to +their usual order, and the savage faces were painted with red and +black in hideous lines. Anything their minds could shape was rigged +for a head-dress, and finally, when all was ready, they ran with +fiendish yells toward the beach, some twenty yards, and there +behind a canvas facing the water they began their strange +dance.</p> +<p>Only one squaw was with them, and she was the wife of the tyhee +(chief) giving the feast. The medicine man had a large bird with +white breast, called the loon. While dancing he picked the white +feathers and scattered them on the heads of the others. The other +squaws were sitting on the ground in long rows in front of the +canoes reaching to the water's edge, about 200 feet below.</p> +<p>Their music was a wild shout or croon by all the tribe, and the +dancing is a movement in any irregular way, or a swaying motion +given to the time given by the voices, and they only advanced a few +inches in an hour's time.</p> +<p>The tribe approaching in canoes had their representative men +dressed in the same styles, only gayer, if possible. When the +canoes glided onto the beach, four abreast, it was the signal to +drop the canvas hiding the host and party, and advance a little +distance to meet them. Then they broke ranks and made way for the +visitors to approach the house with their gifts of blankets or +other valuables for the tyhee. Most of the Indians convert their +riches into blankets. These nations, seen by the tourist in an +ordinary trip to Alaska, seem very much the same in all points +visited. None of them are poor, all have some money, and many +have</p> +<h4>WEALTH COUNTED BY THOUSANDS.</h4> +<p>To be sure, some of them are in a measure Christianized, but the +odors arising from the homes of the best of them are such as a +civilized nose never scented before. Rancid grease, dried fish, +pelts, decaying animals, and human filth made the strongest perfume +known to the commercial or social world.</p> +<p>The squaws, if they were in mourning or in love, would have +their faces painted black with oil and tar. Then again, a great +many wear a wooden or ivory pin thrust through the lip just below +the fleshy part. It is worn for ornament, the same as ear-rings or +nose-rings, and is called a labret. The missionary work done among +them is a commendable one, but it seems a hopeless task. Their +houses are always built with one object in view, to be able to tie +the canoe to the front door. A long row of huts just above +high-tide line can always be safely called a rancherie in that +country. Their food is brought by the tide to their very doors, and +the timbered mountains abound in wild game, and offer ample fuel +for the cutting.</p> +<center><img src="Images/15Granville.jpg" alt= +"GRANVILLE CHANNEL, ALASKA" height="256" width="466" align= +"top"></center> +<p>Chilcot, or Pyramid Harbor, is about twelve hours run from +Juneau, and it is here the famous Chilcot blanket is made from the +goat's wool, woven by hand, and dyed by native dyes, and worked +from grotesque patterns. Here, also, are two of the largest salmon +canneries in Alaska, and here, indeed, were we in the</p> +<h4>LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.</h4> +<p>The hours passed quickly by as the supposed night wore away. At +midnight the twilight was so bright that one could read a newspaper +easily. Then the moon shone in the clear sky with all regal +splendor until 3.30 in the morning, when old Sol again put in his +claims for admission. He lifted his golden head above the snowy +peaks, and spirited away the uncertain light of unfolding dawn by +drawing the curtains of the purpling east, and sending floods of +radiance upon the entire world. It was a sight never to be +forgotten, if seen but once in a lifetime.</p> +<p>Onward once again when the tide was in, and our next awakening +was on the grand glacier fields. The greatest sight of the entire +trip, or of any other in America, now opened out before many eager +eyes. For several days, icebergs had been seen sailing along on the +smooth surface from the great glaciers, and speeding to the +southern seas like phantom ships. As the ship neared the bay, these +huge bergs increased in size and number, with such grotesque and +weird shapes, that the mind is absorbed in shaping turrets, ghosts, +goblins, and the like, each moment developing more and more of +things unearthly, until the heart and eyes seem bursting with the +strain, when suddenly a great roar, like the shock of an explosion +of giant powder, turns the eyes to the parent glacier to see the +birth of these unnatural forms. They break from the icy wall with a +stupendous crash, and fall into the water with such force as to +send our great ship careening on her side when the swell from the +disturbed waters strikes her.</p> +<p>The Muir glacier is the one that occupies the most attention, as +it is the most accessible to tourists. It rises to a perpendicular +height of 350 feet, and stretches across the entire head of the +Glacier Bay, which is estimated from three to five miles in width. +The Muir and Davidson glaciers are two arms of that great Ice field +extending more than 400 miles in length, covering more area</p> +<h4>THAN ALL SWITZERLAND,</h4> +<p>and any one of the fifteen subdivisions of the glacial stream is +as large as the Great Rhone glacier.</p> +<p>Underlying this great ice field is that glacial river which +bears these mountains of ice on its bosom to the ocean. With a roar +like distant artillery, or an approaching thunder-storm, the +advancing walls of this great monster split and fall into the +watery deep, which has been sounded to a depth of some 800 feet +without finding anchor.</p> +<p>The glacial wall is a rugged, uneven mass, with clefts and +crevices, towering pinnacles and domes, higher than Bunker Hill +monument, cutting the air at all angles, and with a stupendous +crash sections break off from any portion without warning and sink +far out of sight. Scarcely two minutes elapse without a portion +falling from some quarter. The marble whiteness of the face is +relieved by lines of intense blue, a characteristic peculiar to the +small portions as well as the great.</p> +<p>Going ashore in little rowboats, the vast area along the sandy +beach was first explored, and it was, indeed, like a fairy land. +There were acres of grottoes, whose honey-combed walls were most +delicately carved by the soft winds and the sunlight reflections +around and in the arches of ice, such as are never seen except in +water, ice, and sky.</p> +<h4>MOUNTAINS OF ICE,</h4> +<p>remnants of glaciers, along the beach, stood poised on one +point, or perchance on two points, and arched between. These +icebergs were dotted with stones imbedded; great bowls were melted +out and filled with water, and little cups made of ice would afford +you a drink of fresh water on the shore of this salt sea.</p> +<p>At five o'clock in the morning, with the sun kissing the cold +majestic glacier into a glad awakening from its icy sleep, the +ascent was begun. Too eager to be among the first to see the top, +many started without breakfast, while others chose the wiser part, +and waited to be physically fortified.</p> +<p>The ascent is not so difficult as it is dangerous. There is no +trail and no guide, and many a step had to be retraced to get +across or around some bottomless fissure. For some distance the +ground seemed quite solid. Soon it was discovered that there was +but a thin covering of dirt on the solid ice below; but anon in +striking the ground with the end of an alpine stick it would prove +to be but an inch of ice and dirt mixed, and a dark abyss below +which we could not fathom. It is to be hoped, for the good of +future tourists, that there are not many such places, or that they +may soon be exposed so they can be avoided. Reaching the top after +a tedious and slippery climb, there was a long view of icy billows, +as if the sea had suddenly congealed amid a wild tempestuous storm. +Deep chasms obstructed the way on all sides, and a misstep or slip +would send one down the blue steps where no friendly rope could +rescue, and only the rushing water could be heard. To view the +solid phalanxes of icy floes, as they fill the mountain fastnesses +and imperceptibly march through the ravines and force their way to +the sea, fills one with awe indescribable. The knowledge that the +ice is moving from beneath one's feet thrills one with a curious +sensation hard to portray.</p> +<p>Below, it seems like the constant wooing of the sea that wins +the offering from this wealth of purity, instead of the voluntary +act of this giant of the Arctic zone.</p> +<p>For twenty-four hours the awful grandeur of these scenes was +gloried in, when Captain Hunter gave the order to draw the anchor +and steam away. The whistles call the passengers back to the +steamer, where they were soon comparing specimens, viewing +instantaneous photographs, hiding bedraggled clothing, casting away +tattered mufflers, and telling of hair-breadth escapes from peril +and death. Many a tired head sought an early pillow, and floated +away in dreams of ghoulish icebergs, until the call for breakfast +disclosed to opening eyes that the boat was anchored in the</p> +<h4>BEAUTIFUL HARBOR OF SITKA.</h4> +<p>The steamer's whistle is the signal for a holiday in all Alaska +ports, and Sitka is no exception to the rule. Six o'clock in the +morning, but the sleepy town had awakened to the fact of our +arrival, and the inhabitants were out in force to greet friends or +sell their canoes.</p> +<p>There are some 1,500 people living in Sitka, including all +races. The harbor is the most beautiful a fertile brain can +imagine. Exquisitely moulded islands are scattered about in the +most enchanting way, all shapes and sizes, with now and then a +little garden patch, and ever verdant with native woods and grasses +and charming rockeries. As far out as the eye can reach the +beautiful isles break the cold sea into bewitching inlets and lure +the mariner to shelter from evil outside waves.</p> +<center><img src="Images/14Sitka.jpg" alt="SITKA HARBOR, ALASKA" +height="265" width="456"></center> +<p>The village nestles between giant mountains on a lowland curve +surrounded by verdure too dense to be penetrated with the eye, and +too far to try to walk—which is a good excuse for tired feet. +The first prominent feature to meet the eye on land is a large +square house, two stories high, located on a rocky eminence near +the shore, and overlooking the entire town and harbor. Once it was +a model dwelling of much pretension, with its spacious apartments, +hard-wood six-inch plank floors, elaborately-carved decorations, +stained-glass windows, and its amusement and refreshment halls. All +betoken the former elegance of the Russian governor's home, which +was supported with such pride and magnificence as will never be +seen there again. The walls are crumbling, the windows broken, and +the old oaken stairways will soon be sinking to earth again, and +its only life will be on the page of history.</p> +<p>The mission-school hospital, chapel, and architectural buildings +occupied much of the tourists' time, and some were deeply +interested. There are eighteen missionaries in Sitka, under the +Presbyterian jurisdiction, trying to educate and Christianize the +Indians. They are doing a noble work, but it does seem a hopeless +task when one goes among the Indian homes, sees the filth, smells +the vile odors, and studies the native habits.</p> +<p>These Indians, like the other tribes, are not poor, but all have +more or less money.</p> +<h4>MANY ARE RICH,</h4> +<p>having more than $20,000 in good hard cash, yet the squalor in +which they live would indicate the direst poverty.</p> +<p>The stroll to Indian river, from which the town gets its water +supply, is bewitching. The walk is made about six feet through an +evergreen forest, the trees arching overhead, for a distance of two +miles, and is close to the bay, and following the curve in a most +picturesque circle. The water is carried in buckets loaded on carts +and wheeled by hand, for horses are almost unknown in Alaska. There +are probably not more than half a dozen horses and mules in all +Alaska—not so much because of the expense of transportation +and board, as lack of roads and the long, dark days and months of +winter, when people do not go out but very little. All the packing +is done in all sections of Alaska by natives carrying the packs and +supplies on their backs.</p> +<p>Sitka's most interesting object is the old Greek church, located +in the middle of the town, and also in the middle of the street. +Its form is that of a Greek cross, with a copper-covered dome, +surmounted by a chime-bell tower. The inside glitters with gold and +rare paintings, gold embroidered altar cloths and robes; quaint +candelabra of solid silver are suspended in many nooks, and an air +of sacred quiet pervades the whole building. There were no seats, +for the Russians remain standing during the worship. Service is +held every Sabbath by a Russian priest in his native language, and +the church is still supported by the Russian Government. Indeed, +Russia does more for the advancement of religion than does our own +Government for Alaska.</p> +<p>The walk through the Indian ranch was but a repetition of the +other towns, only that they were wealthier and uglier, if possible, +than the other tribes. The Hydahs are very powerfully built, tall, +large boned, and stout.</p> +<p>Two days were spent in visiting and trafficking with these +people. Then the anchor came up, and soon a silver trail like a +huge sea serpent moved among the green isles, and followed us once +more—now on the homeward sail.</p> +<p>But one new place of importance was made on the home trip, and +that was at</p> +<h4>KILLISNOO.</h4> +<p>When the steamer arrived, the evening after leaving Sitka, the +city policeman met us at the wharf and invited us to visit his hut. +Of course, he was a native, who expected to sell some curios. Over +his door was the following:</p> +<blockquote> +<p>"By the Governor's commission,<br> + And the company's permission,<br> + I am made the grand tyhee<br> + Of this entire illahee.</p> +<p>"Prominent in song and story,<br> + I've attained the top of glory.<br> + As Saginaw I am known to fame,<br> + Jake is but my common name."</p></blockquote> +<p>The time when he attained his fame and glory must have been when +he and his wife were both drunk one night, and he put the handcuffs +on his wife and could not get them off, and she had to go to Sitka +to be released. He appears in at least a dozen different suits +while the steamer is in port, and stands ready to be photographed +every time.</p> +<p>Killisnoo used to be a point where 100,000 barrels of herring +oil were put up annually. The industry is now increasing +again.</p></blockquote> +<center><img src="Images/16Devil.jpg" alt="DEVIL'S THUMB" + width="522" height="285"></center> +<blockquote> +<h4>NATURAL WEALTH.</h4> +<p>And this reminds me that I am almost neglecting a reference to +Alaska's vast resources in forests, metals, furs, and fish. There +are 300,000,000 of acres densely wooded with spruce, red and yellow +cedar, Oregon pine, hemlock, fir, and other useful varieties of +timber. Canoes are made from single trees, sixty feet long, with +eight-feet beams.</p> +<p>Gold, silver, lead, iron, coal, and copper are encountered in +various localities. Though but little prospected or developed, +Alaska is now yielding gold at the rate of about $2,000,000 per +year. There is a respectable area of island and mainland country +well adapted to stock-raising, and the production of many cereals +and vegetables. The climate of much of the coast country is milder +than that of Colorado, and stock can feed on the pastures the year +round.</p> +<p>But, if Alaska had no mines, forests, or agriculture, its seal +and salmon fisheries would remain alone an immense commercial +property. The salmon are found in almost any part of these northern +waters where fresh water comes in, as they always seek those +streams in the spawning season. There are different varieties that +come at stated periods and are caught in fabulous numbers, +sometimes running solid ten feet deep, and often retarding steamers +when a school of them is overtaken. At Idaho Inlet Mr. Van Gasken +brought up a seine for the Ancon tourists containing 350 salmon for +packing. At nearly every port the steamer landed there was either +one or more canning or salt-packing establishments for salmon. Of +these, 11,500,000 pounds were marketed last year.</p> +<p>Besides the salmon there is the halibut, black and white cod, +rock cod, herring, sturgeon, and many other fish, while the waters +are whipped by porpoises and whales in large numbers all along the +way. Governor Swineford estimates the products of the Alaska +fisheries last year at $3,000,000.</p> +<h4>THE SEAL FISHERIES</h4> +<p>are still 1,800 miles west of Sitka. St. Paul and St. George +Islands are the best breeding places of the seals, sea lions, sea +otter, and walrus. These islands are in a continuous fog in summer, +and are swept by icy blasts in winter. There are many interesting +facts connected with these islands and the habits of these phocine +kindred, but space is limited. Suffice that 100,000 seals are +killed each year for commercial purposes. Over 1,000,000 seal pups +are born every year, and when they leave for winter quarters they +go in families and not altogether. An average seal is about six +feet long, but some are found eight feet long and weigh from 400 to +800 pounds. The work of catching is all done between the middle of +June and the first of August. The fur company are supposed to pay +our Government $2 for each pelt. These hides are at once shipped to +London to be dyed and made ready to be put on the market in the +United States.</p> +<p>In fact, Alaska seems full to overflowing with offerings to +seekers of fortune or pleasure. Its coast climate is mild, with no +extreme heat, because of the snow-clad peaks which temper the humid +air, and never extreme cold, because of the Japan current that +bathes its mossy slopes and destroys the frigid wave before it does +its work.</p> +<p>Three thousand miles along this inland sea has revealed scenes +of matchless grandeur—majestic mountains (think of +snow-crowned St. Elias, rising 19,500 feet from the ocean's edge), +the mightiest glaciers, world's of inimitable, indescribable +splendor. It is a trip of a lifetime. There is none other like it, +and our party unanimously resolves that the tourist who fails to +take it misses very much.</p></blockquote> +<p> </p> +<hr size="4" width="50%" align="center"> +<center> +<h4><i>Fifth Tour</i>—</h4></center> +<p>From Portland to San Francisco by steamer is one of the most +enjoyable trips offered the tourist in point of safety and comfort, +and the service is exceptionally fine.</p> +<p>The steamers "Oregon," "Columbia," and "State of California" are +powerful iron steamers, built expressly for tourist travel between +Portland and San Francisco. The traveler will find this fifty-hour +ocean voyage thoroughly enjoyable; the sea is uniformly smooth, no +greater motion than the long swell of the Pacific, and the boats +are models of neatness and comfort. It affords a grand opportunity +to run down the California coast, always in sight of land, and +derive the invigorating exhilaration of an ocean trip without any +of its discomforts. Among the many points of interest to be seen +are the picturesque Columbia River Bar, the beautiful Ocean Beach +at Clatsop, the towering heights of Cape Hancock, the lonely +Mid-Ocean Lighthouse at Tillamook Rock, the historical Rogue River +Reef, Cape Mendocino, Humboldt Bay, Point Arena, and last, but not +least, the world-renowned Golden Gate of San Francisco.</p> +<center><img src="Images/17Moonlight.jpg" alt= +"MOONLIGHT ON THE OLD BLOCK HOUSE" height="258" width="454" + align="top"></center> +<p>The steamships of this company are all new, modern-designed iron +vessels, supplied with steam steering apparatus, electric light and +bells, and all improved nautical appliances. The state-rooms, +cabins, salons, etc., are elaborately furnished throughout, the +whole presenting an unrivaled scene of luxurious ocean life.</p> +<p>The advantages of this charming ocean trip to the tourist are +most obvious; there is the healthful air of the grand old Pacific +Ocean, complete freedom from dust, heat, cinders, and all the +discomforts which one meets in midsummer railway travel.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr align="center" noshade size="2" width="70%"> +<hr align="center" noshade size="2" width="90%"> +<p> </p> +<center> +<h3>STANDARD PUBLICATIONS<br> +BY THE PASSENGER DEPARTMENT<br> +OF THE UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY.</h3></center> +<p>The Passenger Department of the Union Pacific Railway will take +pleasure in forwarding to any address, free, of charge, any of the +following publications, provided that with the application is +enclosed the amount of postage specified below for each +publication. All of these books and pamphlets are fresh from the +press, many of them handsomely illustrated, and accurate as regards +the region of country described. They will be found entertaining +and instructive, and invaluable as guides to and authority on the +fertile tracts and landscape wonders of the great empire of the +West. There is information for the tourist, pleasure and health +seeker, the investor, the settler, the sportsman, the artist, and +the invalid.</p> +<p><b>The Western Resort Book</b>. Send 6 cents for postage.</p> +<p>This is a finely illustrated book describing the vast Union +Pacific system. Every health resort, mountain retreat, watering +place, hunter's paradise, etc., etc., is depicted. This book gives +a full and complete detail of all tours over the line, starting +from Sioux City, Council Bluffs, Omaha, St. Joseph, Leavenworth, or +Kansas City, and contains a complete itinerary of the journey from +either of these points to the Pacific Coast.</p> +<p><b>Sights and Scenes.</b> Send 2 cents postage for each +pamphlet.</p> +<p>There are five pamphlets in this set, pocket folder size, +illustrated, and are descriptive of tours to particular points. The +set comprises "Sights and Scenes in Colorado;" Utah; Idaho and +Montana; California; Oregon, Washington, and Alaska. Each pamphlet, +deals minutely with every resort of pleasure or health within its +assigned limit, and will be found bright and interesting reading +for tourists.</p> +<p><b>Facts and Figures.</b> Send 2 cents postage for each +pamphlet.</p> +<p>This is a set of three pamphlets, containing facts and figures +relative to Kansas, Nebraska, and Colorado respectively. They are +more particularly meant for intending settlers in these fertile +States and will be found accurate in every particular; there is a +description of all important towns.</p> +<p><b>Vest Pocket Memorandum Book.</b> Send 2 cents for +postage.</p> +<p>A handy, neatly gotten-up little memorandum book, very useful +for the farmer, business man, traveler, and tourist.</p> +<p><b>Calendar, 1890.</b> Send 6 cents for postage.</p> +<p>An elegant Calendar for the year 1890, suitable for the office +and counting room.</p> +<p><b>Comprehensive Pamphlets.</b> Send 6 cents postage for each +pamphlet.</p> +<p>A set of pamphlets on Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, Idaho, +Oregon, and Washington. These books treat, of the resources, +climate, acreage, minerals, grasses, soil, and products of these +various empires on an extended scale, entering very fully upon an +exhaustive treatise of the capabilities and promise of the places +described. They have been very carefully compiled, and the +information collated from Official Reports, actual settlers, and +residents of the different States and Territories.</p> +<p><b>Theatrical Diary.</b> Send 10 cents for postage.</p> +<p>This is a Theatrical Diary for 1890-91, bound in Turkey Morocco, +gilt tops, and contains a, list of 255 theatres and opera houses +reached by the Union Pacific system, seating capacity, size of +stage, terms, newspapers in each town, etc., etc. This Diary is +intended only for the theatrical profession.</p> +<p><b>Commercial Salesman's Expense Book.</b> Send 2 cents for +postage.</p> +<p>A neat vest pocket memorandum book for 1890—dates, cash +accounts, etc., etc.</p> +<p><b>Outdoor Sports and Pastimes.</b> Send 2 cents for +postage.</p> +<p>A carefully compiled pamphlet of some thirty pages, giving the +complete rules of this year, for Lawn Tennis, Base Ball, Croquet, +Racquet, Cricket, Quoits, La Crosse, Polo, Curling, Foot Ball, +etc., etc. There are also diagrams of a Lawn Tennis Court and Base +Ball diamond. This pamphlet will be found especially valuable to +lovers of these games.</p> +<p><b>Map of the United States.</b> Send 25 cents for postage.</p> +<p>A large wall map of the United States, complete in every +particular, and compiled from the latest surveys; just published; +size, 46 x 66 inches; railways, counties, roads, etc., etc.</p> +<p><b>Stream, Sound and Sea.</b> Send 2 cents for postage.</p> +<p>A neat, illustrated pamphlet descriptive of a trip from The +Dalles of the Columbia to Portland, Ore., Astoria, Clatsop Beach; +through the strait of Juan de Fuca and the waters of the Puget +Sound, and up the coast to Alaska. A handsome pamphlet containing +valuable information for the tourist.</p> +<p><b>Wonderful Story.</b> Send 2 cents for postage.</p> +<p>The romance of railway building. The wonderful story of the +early surveys and the building of the Union Pacific. A paper by +General G.M. Dodge, read before the Society of the Army of the +Tennessee, September, 1888. General Sherman pronounces this +document fascinatingly interesting and, of great historical value, +and vouches for its accuracy.</p> +<p><b>Gun Club Rules and Revised Game Laws.</b> Send 2 cents for +postage.</p> +<p>This valuable publication is a digest of the laws relating to +game in all the Western States and Territories. It also contains +the various gun club rules, together with a guide to all Western +localities where game of whatsoever description may be found. Every +sportsman should have one.</p> +<p><b>"The Oldest Inhabitant."</b> Send 10 cents for postage.</p> +<p>This is a buffalo head in Sepia, a very artistic study from +life. It is characterized by strong drawing and wonderful fidelity. +A very handsome acquisition for parlor or library.</p> +<p><b>Crofutt's Overland Guide, No. 1.</b> Send $1.00.</p> +<p>This book has just been issued. It graphically describes every +point, giving its history, population, business resources, etc., +etc., on the line of the Union Pacific Hallway, between the +Missouri River and the Pacific Coast, and the tourist should not +start West without a copy in his possession. It furnishes in one +volume a complete guide to the country traversed by the Union +Pacific system, and can not fail to be of great assistance to the +tourist in selecting his route, and obtaining complete information +about the points to be visited.</p> +<p><b>A Glimpse of Great Salt Lake.</b> Send 4 cents for +postage.</p> +<p>This is a charming description of a yachting cruise on the +mysterious Inland sea, beautifully illustrated with original +sketches by the well-known artist, Mr. Alfred Lambourne, of Salt +Lake City. This startling phenomena of sea and cloud and light and +color are finely portrayed. This book touches a new region, a +voyage on Great Salt Lake never before having been described and +pictured.</p> +<p><b>General Folder</b>. No postage required.</p> +<p>A carefully revised General Folder is issued regularly every +month. This publication gives condensed through time tables; +through car service; a first-class map of the United States, west +of Chicago and St. Louis; important baggage and ticket regulations +of the Union Pacific Railway, thus making a valuable compendium for +the traveler and for ticket agent in selling through tickets over +the Union Pacific Railway.</p> +<p><b>The Pathfinder</b>. No postage required.</p> +<p>A book of some fifty pages devoted to local time cards; +containing a complete list of stations with the altitude of each; +also connections with western stage lines and ocean steamships; +through car service; baggage and Pullman Sleeping Car rates and the +principal ticket regulations, which will prove of great value as a +ready reference for ticket agents to give passengers information +about the local branches of the Union Pacific Railway.</p> +<p><b>Alaska Folder</b>. No postage required.</p> +<p>This Folder contains a brief outline of the trip to Alaska, and +also a correct map of the Northwest Pacific Coast, from Portland to +Sitka, Alaska, showing the route of vessels to and from this new +and almost unknown country.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr align="center" noshade size="2" width="40%"> +<p> </p> +<center><img src="Images/18Map.jpg" alt= +"Tourist Map of the Union Pacific and Connecting Lines" + height="279" width="570"></center> +<br> +<br> +<hr> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA; SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST.***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 10751-h.txt or 10751-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/7/5/10751">https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/7/5/10751</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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L. Lomax + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + + + + +Title: Oregon, Washington and Alaska; Sights and Scenes for the Tourist + +Author: E. L. Lomax + +Release Date: January 19, 2004 [eBook #10751] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: US-ASCII + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA; +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST.*** + + +E-text prepared by P. A. Peters, Beth Trapaga, and the Project Gutenberg +Online Distributed Proofreading Team + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 10751-h.htm or 10751-h.zip: + (http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/1/0/7/5/10751/10751-h/10751-h.htm) + or + (http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/1/0/7/5/10751/10751-h.zip) + + + + + +OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA. + +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST. + +By E.L. LOMAX, General Passenger Agent, +Union Pacific System. +Omaha, Neb. + +1890 + + + + + +[Illustration: Oregon, Washington and Alaska. Sights and Scenes for the +Tourist.] + +[Illustration: Union Pacific Overland. +Sights and Scenes in Oregon, Washington and Alaska for Tourists. +Compliments of the Passenger Department, Union Pacific System, Omaha, +Neb.] + + + + + +LIST OF AGENTS. + +ALBANY, N.Y.--23 Maiden Lane--J.D. TENBROECK. Trav. Pass. Agt. + +BOSTON, MASS.--290 Washington St.--W.S. CONDELL, New England Freight +and Passenger Agent. + J.S. SMITH, Traveling Passenger Agent. + E.M. NEWBEGIN, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. + A.P. MASSEY, Passenger and Freight Solicitor. + +BUFFALO, N.Y.--40-1/2 Exchanges St.--S.A. HUTCHISON, Trav. Pass. Agt. + +BUTTE, MONT.--Corner Main and Broadway--General Agt. + +CHEYENNE, WYO.--C.W. SWEET, Freight and Ticket Agent. + +CHICAGO, ILL.--191 South Clark St.--W.H. KNIGHT, Gen'l Agt. P. and F. +Dep'ts. + T.W. YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent. + W.T. HOLLY, City Passenger Agent. + ALFRED MORTESSEN & CO., European Immigration Agts., 140 Kinzie St. + +CINCINNATI, OHIO--56 West 4th St.--J.D. WELSH, Gen'l Agt. P. and F. +Dep'ts. + H.C. SMITH, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. + +CLEVELAND, OHIO--Kennard House.--A.G. SHEARMAN, T. F. and P. Agt. + +COLORADO SPRINGS, COLO.--E.D. BAXTER, Gen'l Agt D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +COLUMBUS, OHIO--N.W. Cor. Gay and High Sts.--T.C. HIRST, Trav. Pass. Agt. + +COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA--506 First Ave.--A.J. MANDERSON, General Agt. + R.W. CHAMBERLAIN, Passenger Agent, Transfer Depot. + J.W. MAYNARD, Ticket Agent, Transfer Depot. + A.T. ELWELL, City Ticket Agent, 507 Broadway. + +DALLAS, TEX.--H.M. DE HART, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +DENVER, COLO.--1703 Larimer St.--F.I. SMITH, Gen'l Agt. D., T. & Ft. W. +R.R. + GEO. ADY, General Passenger Agent, Colo. Div. and D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + F.B. SEMPLE, Ass't Gen'l Pass. Agt, Colo. Div. and D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + C.H. TITUS, Traveling Passenger Agent. + R.P.M. KIMBALL, City Ticket Agent. + +DES MOINES, IOWA--218 4th St.--E.M. FORD, Traveling Passenger Agent. + +DETROIT, MICH.--62 Griswold St.--D.W. JOHNSTON, Michigan Pass. Agt. + +HELENA, MONT.--2 North Main St.--A.E. VEAZIE, City Ticket Agent. + +INDIANAPOLIS, IND.--Room 3 Jackson Place.--H.O. WEBB, Traveling Passenger +Agent. + +KANSAS CITY, MO.--9th and Broadway.--J.B. FRAWLEY, Div. Pass. Agt. + J.B. REESE, Traveling Passenger Agent. + F.S. HAACKE, Traveling Passenger Agent. + H.K. PROUDFIT, City Passenger Agent. + T.A. SHAW, Ticket Agent, 1038 Union Ave. + A.W. MILLSPAUGH, Ticket Agent, Union Depot. + C.A. WHITTIER, City Ticket Agent, 528 Main St. + +LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND--23 Water St.--S. STAMFORD PARRY, General European +Agent. + +LONDON, ENGLAND--THOS. COOK & SONS, European Passenger Agents, Ludgate +Circus. + +LOS ANGELES, CAL.--51 North Spring St.--JOHN CLARK, Agt. Pass. Dep't. + A.J. HECHTMAN, Agent Freight Department. + +LOUISVILLE, KY.--346 West Main St.--N. HAIGHT, Traveling Pass. Agent. + +NEW ORLEANS, LA.--45 St. Charles St.--C.B. SMITH, General Agent D., T. +& Ft. W. R.R. + D.M. REA, Traveling Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +NEW YORK CITY--287 Broadway--R. TENBROECK, General Eastern Agent. + J.F. WILEY, Passenger Agent. + F.R. SEAMAN, City Passenger Agent. + +OGDEN, UTAH--Union Depot--C.A. HENRY, Ticket Agent. + C.E. INGALLS, Traveling Passenger Agent. + +OLYMPIA, WASH.--2d St. Wharf.--J.C. PERCIVAL, Ticket Agent. + +OMAHA, NEB.--9th and Farnam Sts.--M.J. GREEVY, Trav. Pass. Agt. + HARRY P. DEUEL, City Passenger and Ticket Agent, 1302 Farnam St. + J.K. CHAMBERS, Depot Ticket Agent, 10th and Marey Sts. + +PHILADELPHIA, PA.--133 South 4th St.--D.E. BURLEY, Trav. Pass. Agt. + L.T. FOWLER, Traveling Freight Agent. + +PITTSBURG, PA.--400 Wood St.--H.E. PASSAVANT, T. F. and P. A. + THOS. S. SPEAR, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. + +PORTLAND, ORE.--Cor. 3d and Oak Sts.--T.W. LEE, Gen'l Passenger Agent, +Pacific Div. + A.L. MAXWELL, General Agent Traffic Department. + HARRY YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent. + GEO. S. TAYLOR, City Ticket Agent. Cor. 1st and Oak Sts. + +PORT TOWNSEND, WASH.--Union Wharf--H.L. TIBBALS, Jr., Ticket Agt. + +PUEBLO, COLO.--E.R. HARDING, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +ST. JOSEPH, MO.--F.L. LYNDE, General Pass. Agent, St. J. & G.I. R.R. Div. + W.P. ROBINSON, Jr., General Freight Agent, St. J. & G.I. R.R. Div. + +ST. LOUIS, MO.--213 North 4th St.--J.F. AGLAR, Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep't. + E.R. TUTTLE, Traveling Passenger Agent. + E.S. WILLIAMS, City Passenger Agent. + C.C. KNIGHT, Freight Contracting Agent. + +SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH--201 Main St.--J.V. PARKER, Assistant General +Freight and Passenger Agent, Mountain Div. + +SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.--1 Montgomery St.--W.H. HURLBURT, Assistant General +Passenger Agent, Mo. Riv. Div. + S.W. ECCLES, General Agent Freight Department. + C.L. HANNA, Traveling Passenger Agent. + H. FRODSHAM, Passenger Agent. + J.F. FUGAZI, Italian Emigrant Agent, 5 Montgomery Ave. + +SEATTLE, WASH.--A.C. MARTIN, City Ticket Agent. + O.F. BRIGGS, Ticket Agent, Dock. + +SIOUX CITY, IOWA--513 Fourth St.--D.M. COLLINS, General Agent. + GEO. E. ABBOT, City Ticket Agent. + +SPOKANE FALLS, WASH.--108 Riverside Ave.--PERRY GRIFFIN, Passenger and +Ticket Agent. + +TACOMA, WASH.--901 Pacific Ave.--E.E. ELLIS, Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep'ts. + +TRINIDAD, COLO.--G.M. JACOBS, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R. + +VICTORIA, B.C.--100 Government St.--G.A. COOPER, Ticket Agent. + +WHATCOM, WASH.--J.W. ALTON, Gen'l Agent Freight and Pass. Dep'ts. + + +J.A.S. REED, General Traveling Agent, 191 South Clark St., CHICAGO. +ALBERT WOODCOCK, General Land Commissioner, OMAHA, NEB. + +E.L. LOMAX, General Passenger Agent, ) OMAHA, NEB. JNO. W. +SCOTT, Ass't General Passenger Agent, ) + + * * * * * + +PULLMAN'S PALACE CAR COMPANY + +Now operates this class of service on the Union Pacific and connecting +lines. + + Double Drawing +PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES BETWEEN Berths Room + +New York and Chicago $ 5.00 $ 18.00 +New York and St. Louis 6.00 22.00 +Boston and Chicago 5.50 20.00 +Chicago and Omaha or Kansas City 2.50 9.00 +Chicago and Denver 6.00 21.00 +St. Louis and Kansas City 2.00 7.00 +St. Louis and Omaha 2.50 9.00 +Kansas City and Cheyenne 4.50 15.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Denver 3.50 12.00 +Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne 4.00 14.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and + Salt Lake City 8.00 28.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Ogden 8.00 28.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Butte 8.50 32.00 +Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Portland 13.00 50.00 +C. Bluff, Omaha or K. City and San Francisco + or Los Angeles 13.00 50.00 +Cheyenne and Portland 10.00 38.00 +Denver and Leadville 2.00 ... +Denver and Portland 11.00 42.00 +Denver and Los Angeles 11.00 42.00 +Denver and San Francisco 11.00 42.00 +Pocatello and Butte 2.00 6.00 + +For a Section, Twice the Double Berth Rates will be charged. + +The Private Hotel, Dining, Hunting and Sleeping Cars of the Pullman +Company will accommodate from 12 to 18 persons, allowing a full bed +to each, and are fitted with such modern conveniences as private, +observation and smoking rooms, folding beds, reclining chairs, buffets +and kitchens. They are "_just the thing_" for tourists, theatrical +companies, sportsmen, and private parties. The Hunting Cars have special +conveniences, being provided with dog-kennels, gun-racks, fishing-tackle, +etc. These cars can be chartered at following rates per diem (the time +being reckoned from date of departure until return of same, unless +otherwise arranged with the Pullman Company): + +Less than Ten Days. + + per day. per day. +Hotel Cars $ 50.00 Private or Hunting Cars $ 35.00 +Buffet Cars 45.00 Private Cars with Buffet 30.00 +Sleeping Cars 40.00 Dining Cars 30.00 + +Ten Days or over, $5.00 per day less than above. Hotel, Buffet, or +Sleeping Cars can also be chartered for continuous trips without +lay-over between points where extra cars are furnished (cars to be +given up at destination), as follows: + +Where berth rate is $ 1.50, car rate will be $ 35.00 + " " " 2.00, " " " " 45.00 + " " " 2.50, " " " " 55.00 + +For each additional berth rate of 50 cents, car rate will be increased +$10.00. + +Above rates include service of polite and skillful attendants. The +commissariat will also be furnished if desired. Such chartered cars must +contain not less than 15 persons holding full first-class tickets, and +another full fare ticket will be required for each additional passenger +over 15. If chartered "per diem" cars are given up _en route_, chartering +party must arrange for return to original starting point free, or pay +amount of freight necessary for return thereto. Diagrams showing interior +of these cars can be had of any agent of the Company. + +PULLMAN DINING CARS + +are attached to the Council Bluffs and Denver Vestibuled Express, daily +between Council Bluffs and Denver, and to "The Limited Fast Mail," +running daily between Council Bluffs and Portland, Ore. + +MEALS. + +All trains, except those specified above (under head of Pullman Dining +Cars), stop at regular eating stations, where first-class meals are +furnished, under the direct supervision of this Company, by the Pacific +Hotel Company. Neat and tidy lunch counters are also to be found at these +stations. + +BUFFET SERVICE. + +Particular attention is called to the fine Buffet Service offered by the +Union Pacific System to its patrons. Pullman Palace Buffet Sleepers now +run on trains Nos. 1, 2, 201, and 202. + + * * * * * + +SIGHTS AND SCENES IN OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA. + +Oregon is a word derived from the Spanish, and means "wild thyme," the +early explorers finding that herb growing there in great profusion. So +far as we have any record Oregon seems to have been first visited by +white men in 1775; Captain Cook coasted down its shores in 1778. Captain +Gray, commanding the ship "Columbia," of Boston, Mass., discovered the +noble river in 1791, which he named after his ship. Astoria was founded +in 1811; immigration was in full tide in 1839; Territorial organization +was effected in 1848, and Oregon became a State on 14th February, 1859. +It has an area of 96,000 square miles, and is 350 miles long by 275 miles +wide. There are 50,000,000 acres of arable and grazing land, and +10,000,000 acres of forest in the State. + +The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates a series of +excursion tickets called "Columbia Tours," using Portland as a central +point. Stop-over privileges will be given within the limitation of the +tickets. + +First Columbia Tour: Portland to "The Dalles," by rail, and return by +river. + +Second Columbia Tour: Portland to Astoria, Ilwaco, and Clatsop Beach, and +return by river. + +Third Columbia Tour: Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma by +boat and return. + +Fourth Columbia Tour: Portland to Alaska and return. + +Fifth Columbia Tour: Portland to San Francisco by boat. + +PORTLAND + +Is a very beautiful city of 60,000 inhabitants, and situated on the +Willamette river twelve miles from its junction with the Columbia. It is +perhaps true of many of the growing cities of the West, that they do not +offer the same social advantages as the older cities of the East. But +this is principally the case as to what may be called boom cities, where +the larger part of the population is of that floating class which follows +in the line of temporary growth for the purposes of speculation, and in +no sense applies to those centers of trade whose prosperity is based on +the solid foundation of legitimate business. As the metropolis of a +vast section of country, having broad agricultural valleys filled with +improved farms, surrounded by mountains rich in mineral wealth, and +boundless forests of as fine timber as the world produces, the cause +of Portland's growth and prosperity is the trade which it has as the +center of collection and distribution of this great wealth of natural +resources, and it has attracted, not the boomer and speculator, who +find their profits in the wild excitement of the boom, but the +merchant, manufacturer, and investor, who seek the surer if slower +channels of legitimate business and investment. These have come from +the East, most of them within the last few years. They came as seeking +a better and wider field to engage in the same occupations they had +followed in their Eastern homes, and bringing with them all the love of +polite life which they had acquired there, have established here a new +society, equaling in all respects that which they left behind. Here are +as fine churches, as complete a system of schools, as fine residences, +as great a love of music and art, as can be found at any city of the +East of equal size. + +[Illustration: PORTLAND, ORE. +On the Union Pacific Ry.] + +But while Portland may justly claim to be the peer of any city of its +size in the United States in all that pertains to social life, in the +attractions of beauty of location and surroundings it stands without its +peer. The work of art is but the copy of nature. What the residents of +other cities see but in the copy, or must travel half the world over to +see in the original, the resident of Portland has at his very door. + +The city is situate on gently-sloping ground, with, on the one side, +the river, and on the other a range of hills, which, within easy +walking distance, rise to an elevation of a thousand feet above the +river, affording a most picturesque building site. From the very +streets of the thickly settled portion of the city, the Cascade +Mountains, with the snow-capped peaks of Hood, Adams, St. Helens, and +Rainier, are in plain view. As the hills to the west are ascended the +view broadens, until, from the extreme top of some of the higher +points, there is, to the east, the valley stretching away to the +Cascade Mountains, with its rivers, the Columbia and Willamette; in the +foreground Portland, in the middle distance Vancouver, and, bounding +the horizon, the Cascade Mountains, with their snow-clad peaks, and the +gorge of the Columbia in plain sight, whilst away to the north the +course of the Columbia may be followed for miles. To the west, from the +foot of the hills, the valley of the Tualatin stretches away twenty odd +miles to the Coast Range, which alone shuts out the view of the Pacific +Ocean and bounds the horizon on the west. To the glaciers of Mt. Hood +is but little more than a day's travel. The gorge of the Columbia, +which in many respects equals, and in others surpasses the far-famed +Yosemite, may be visited in the compass of a day. The Upper Willamette, +within the limits of a few hours' trip, offers beauties equaling the +Rhine, whilst thirty-six hours gives the Lower Columbia, beside which +the Rhine and Hudson sink into insignificance. In short, within a few +hours' walk of the heart of this busy city are beauties surpassing the +White Mountains or Adirondacks, and the grandeur of the Alps lies +within the limits of a day's picnicking. + +There is no better guarantee of the advantageous position of Portland +than the wealth which has accumulated here in the short period which +has elapsed since the city first sprang into existence. Theory is all +very well, but the actual proof is in the result. At the taking of the +census of 1880, Portland was the third wealthiest city in the world in +proportion to population; since that date wealth has accumulated at an +unprecedented rate, and it is probable it is to-day the wealthiest. +Among all her wealthy men, not one can be singled out who did not make +his money here, who did not come here poor to grow rich. + +Portland enjoys superb advantages as a starting-point for tourist +travel. After the traveler has enjoyed the numerous attractions of that +wealthy city, traversed its beautiful avenues, viewed a strikingly +noble landscape from "The Heights," and explored those charming +environs which extend for miles up and down the Willamette, there +remains perhaps the most invigorating and healthful trip of all--a +journey either by + +STREAM, SOUND, OR SEA. + +There must ever remain in the mind of the tourist a peculiarly +delightful recollection of a day on the majestic Columbia River, the +all too short run across that glorious sheet of water, Puget Sound, or +the fifty hours' luxurious voyage on the Pacific Ocean, from Portland +to San Francisco. + +Beginning first with the Columbia River, the traveler will find solid +comfort on any one of the boats belonging to the Union Pacific Railway +fleet. This River Division is separated into three subdivisions: the +Lower Columbia from Portland to Astoria, the Middle Columbia from +Portland to Cascade Locks, and the Upper Columbia from the Cascades +to The Dalles. + + * * * * * + +THE UPPER COLUMBIA. + +_First Tour_.--Passengers will remember that, arriving at The Dalles, +on the Union Pacific Railway, they have the option of proceeding into +Portland either by rail or river, and their ticket is available for +either route. + +[Illustration: A GLIMPSE OF MOUNT ADAMS, WASHINGTON. As seen from the +Union Pacific Ry.] + +The river trip will be found a very pleasant diversion after the long +railway ride, and a day's sail down the majestic Columbia is a +memory-picture which lasts a life-time. It is eighty-eight miles by rail +to Portland, the train skirting the river bank up to within a few miles +of the city. By river, it is forty-five miles to the Upper Cascades, then +a six-mile portage via narrow-gauge railway, then sixty miles by steamer +again to Portland. The boat leaves The Dalles at about 7 in the morning, +and reaches Portland at 6 in the evening. The accommodations on these +boats are first-class in every respect; good table, neat staterooms, and +courteous attendants. + +This tour is planned for those who may wish to start from Portland by +the Union Pacific Railway. Take the evening train from Portland to The +Dalles. Arriving at The Dalles, walk down to the boat, which lies only +a few yards down stream from the station. Sleep on board, so that you +may be ready early in the morning for the stately panorama of the +river. Another plan is to give a day to the interesting country in the +near vicinity. The Dalles proper of the Columbia begin at Celilo, +fourteen miles above this point, and are simply a succession of rapids, +until, nearing The Dalles Station, the stream for two and a half miles +narrows down between walls of basaltic rock 130 feet across. In the +flood-tides of the spring the water in this chasm has risen 126 feet. +The word "Dalles" is rather misleading. The word is French, "dalle," +and means, variously, "a plate," "a flagstone," "a slab," alluding to +the oval or square shaped stones which abound in the river bed and the +valley above. But the early French hunters and trappers called a chasm +or a defile or gorge, "dalles," meaning in their vernacular "a +trough"--and "Dalles" it has remained. There is a quaint Indian legend +connected with the spot which may interest the curious, and it runs +something on this wise, Clark's Fork and the Snake river, it will be +remembered, unite at Ainsworth to form the Columbia. It flows furiously +for a hundred miles and more westward, and when it reaches the outlying +ridges of the Cascade chain it finds an immense low surface paved with +enormous sheets of basaltic rock. But here is the legend: + +THE LEGEND OF THE DALLES. + +In the very ancient far-away times the sole and only inhabitants of the +world were fiends, and very highly uncivilized fiends at that. The +whole Northwest was then one of the centres of volcanic action. The +craters of the Cascades were fire breathers and fountains of liquid +flame. It was an extremely fiendish country, and naturally the +inhabitants fought like devils. Where the great plains of the Upper +Columbia now spread was a vast inland sea, which beat against a rampart +of hills to the east of The Dalles. And the great weapon of the fiends +in warfare was their tails, which were of prodigious size and terrible +strength. Now, the wisest, strongest, and most subtle fiend of the +entire crew was one fiend called the "Devil." He was a thoughtful +person and viewed with alarm the ever increasing tendency among his +neighbors toward fighting and general wickedness. The whole tribe met +every summer to have a tournament after their fashion, and at one of +these reunions the Devil arose and made a pacific speech. He took +occasion to enlarge on the evils of constant warfare, and suggested +that a general reconciliation take place and that they all live in +peace. The astonished fiends could not understand any such unwarlike +procedure from _him_, and with one accord, suspecting treachery, made +straight at the intended reformer, who, of course, took to his heels. +The fiends pressed him hard as he sped over the plains of The Dalles, +and as he neared the defile he struck a Titanic blow with his tail on +the pavement--and a chasm opened up through the valley, and down rushed +the waters of the inland sea. But a battalion of the fiends still +pursued him, and again he smote with his tail and more strongly, and a +vaster cleft went up and down the valley, and a more terrific torrent +swept along. The leading fiends took the leap, but many fell into the +chasm--and still the Devil was sorely pursued. He had just time to rap +once more and with all the vigor of a despairing tail. And this time he +was safe. A third crevice, twice the width of the second, split the +rocks, riving a deeper cleft in the mountain that held back the inland +sea, making a gorge through the majestic chain of the Cascades and +opening a way for the torrent oceanward. It was the crack of doom for +the fiends. Essaying the leap, they fell far short of the edge, where +the Devil lay panting. Down they fell and were swept away by the flood; +so the whole race of fiends perished from the face of the earth. But +the Devil was in sorry case. His tail was unutterably dislocated by his +last blow; so, leaping across the chasm he had made, he went home to +rear his family thoughtfully. There were no more antagonists; so, +perhaps, after all, tails were useless. Every year he brought his +children to The Dalles and told them the terrible history of his +escape. And after a time the fires of the Cascades burned away; the +inland sea was drained and its bed became a fair and habitable land, +and still the waters gushed through the narrow crevices roaring +seaward. But the Devil had one sorrow. All his children born before the +catastrophe were crabbed, unregenerate, stiff-tailed fiends. After that +event every new-born imp wore a flaccid, invertebrate, despondent +tail--the very last insignium of ignobility. So runs the legend of The +Dalles--a shining lesson to reformers. + +Leaving The Dalles in the morning, a splendid panorama begins to unfold +on this lordly stream--"Achilles of rivers," as Winthrop called it. It +is difficult to describe the charm of this trip. Residents of the East +pronounce it superior to the Hudson, and travelers assert there is +nothing like it in the Old World. It is simply delicious to those +escaped from the heat and dust of their far-off homes to embark on this +noble stream and steam smoothly down past frowning headlands and "rocks +with carven imageries," bluffs lined with pine trees, vivid green, past +islands and falls, and distant views of snowy peaks. There is no trip +like it on the coast, and for a river excursion there is not its equal +in the United States. + +THE ISLE OF THE DEAD. + +Twelve miles below "The Dalles" there is a lonely, rugged island anchored +amid stream. It is bare, save for a white monument which rises from its +rocky breast. No living thing, no vestige of verdure, or tree, or shrub, +appears. And Captain McNulty, as he stood at the wheel and steadied the +"Queen," said: + +"That monument? It's Victor Trevet's. Of course you never heard of him, +but he was a great man, all the same, here in Oregon in the old times. +Queer he was, and no mistake. Member of one of the early legislatures; +sort of a general peacemaker; everybody went to him with their troubles, +and when he said a lawsuit didn't go, it didn't, and he always stuck up +for the Indians, and always called his own kind 'dirty mean whites.' I +used to think that was put on, and maybe it was, but anyhow that's the +way he used to talk. And a hundred times he has said to me, 'John, when +I die, I want to be buried on Memaloose Isle.' That's the 'Isle of the +Dead,' which we just passed, and has been from times away back the burial +place of the Chinook Indians. It's just full of 'em. And I says to him, +'Now, Vic., it's fame your after.' 'John,' says he, 'I'll tell you: I'm +not indifferent to glory; and there's many a big gun laid away in the +cemetery that people forget in a year, and his grave's never visited +after a few turns of the wheel; but if I rest on Memaloose Isle, I'll not +be forgotten while people travel this river. And another thing: You know, +John, the dirty, mean whites stole the Indian's burial ground and built +Portland there. Everyday the papers have an account of Mr. Bigbug's +proposed palace, and how Indian bones were turned up in the excavation. I +won't be buried alongside any such dirty, mean thieves. And I'll tell you +further, John, that it may be if I am laid away among the Indians, when +the Great Day comes I can slip in kind of easy. They ain't going to have +any such a hard time as the dirty whites will have, and maybe I won't be +noticed, and can just slide in quiet along with their crowd.' + +"And I tell you," said the honest Captain, as he swung the "Queen" around +a sharp headland, and the monument and island vanished, "he has got his +wish. He don't lay among the whites, and there isn't a day in summer when +the name of Vic. Trevet ain't mentioned, either on yon train or on a boat, +just as I am telling it to you now. When he died in San Francisco five +years ago, some of his old friends had him brought back to 'The Dalles,' +and one lovely Sunday (being an off day) we buried him on Memaloose Isle, +and then we put up the monument. His earthly immortality is safe and sure, +for that stone will stand as long as the island stays. She's eight feet +square at the base, built of the native rock right on the island, then +three feet of granite, then a ten-foot column. It cost us $1,500, and +Vic. is bricked up in a vault underneath. Yes, sir, he's there for sure +till resurrection day. Queer idea? Why, blame it all, if he thought he +could get in along with the Chinooks it's all right, ain't it? Don't want +a man to lose any chances, do you?" + +[Illustration: MULTNOMAH FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +So much has been said of this mighty river that the preconceived idea +of the tourist is of a surging flood of unknown depth rushing like a +mountain torrent. The plain facts are that the Lower Columbia is rather +a placid stream, with a sluggish current, and the channel shoals up to +eight feet, then falling to twelve, fifteen and seventeen feet, and +suddenly dropping to 100 feet of water and over. In the spring months +it will rise from twenty-five to forty feet, leaving driftwood high up +among the trees on the banks. The tide ebbs and flows at Portland from +eighteen inches to three feet, according to season, and this tidal +influence is felt, in high water, as far up as the Cascades. It is +fifty miles of glorious beauty from "The Dalles" to the Cascades. Here +we leave the steamer and take a narrow-gauge railway for six miles +around the magnificent rapids. At the foot of the Cascades we board a +twin boat, fitted up with equal taste and comfort. + +THE MIDDLE COLUMBIA. + +Swinging once more down stream we pass hundreds of charming spots, sixty +miles of changeful beauty all the way to Portland; Multnomah Falls, a +filmy veil of water falling 720 feet into a basin on the hillside and +then 130 feet to the river; past the rocky walls of Cape Horn, towering +up a thousand feet; past that curious freak of nature, Rooster Rock, and +the palisades; past Fort Vancouver, where Grant and Sheridan were once +stationed, and just at sunset leaving the Columbia, which by this time +has broadened into noble dimensions, we ascend the Willamette twelve +miles to Portland. And the memory of that day's journey down the lordly +river will remain a gracious possession for years to come. + +THE LEGEND OF THE CASCADES. + +There is a quaint Indian legend concerning the Cascades to the effect +that away back in the forgotten times there was a natural bridge across +the river--the water flowing under one arch. The Great Spirit had made +this bridge very beautiful for his red children; it was firm, solid +earth, and covered with trees and grass. The two great giants who sat +always glowering at each other from far away (Mount Adams and Mount +Hood) quarreled terribly once on a time, and the sky grew black with +their smoke and the earth trembled with their roaring. And in their +rage and fury they began to throw great stones and huge mountain +boulders at one another. This great battle lasted for days, and when +the smoke and the thunderings had passed away and the sun shone +peacefully again, the people came back once more. But there was no +bridge there. Pieces of rock made small islands above the lost bridge, +but below that the river fretted and shouted and plunged over jagged +and twisted boulders for miles down the stream, throwing the spray high +in air, madly spending its strength in treacherous whirlpools and deep +seductive currents--ever after to be wrathful, complaining, dangerous. +The stoutest warrior could not live in that terrible torrent. So the +beautiful bridge was lost, destroyed in this Titan battle, but far down +in the water could be seen many of the stately trees which the Great +Spirit caused to remain there as a token of the bridge. These he turned +to stone, and they are there even unto this day. The theory of the +scientists, of course, runs counter to the pretty legend. Science +usually does destroy poetry, and they tell us that a part of the +mountain slid into the river, thus accounting for the remnant of a +forest down in the deep water. Moreover, pieces which have been +recovered show the wood to be live timber, and not petrified, as the +poetic fiction has it. The Columbia has not changed in the centuries, +but flows in the same channel here as when in the remote ages the lava, +overflowing, cut out a course and left its pathway clear for all time. +Below the lower Cascades a sea-coral formation is found, grayish in +color and not very pretty, but showing conclusively its sea formation. +Sandstone is also at times uncovered, showing that this was made by sea +deposit before the lava flowed down upon it. This Oregon country is +said to be the largest lava district in the world. The basaltic +formations in the volcanic lands of Sicily and Italy are famous for +their richness, and Oregon holds out the same promise for agriculture. +The lava formation runs from Portland to Spokane Falls, as far north as +Tacoma, and south as far as Snake river--all basaltic formation +overlaid with an incomparably rich soil. + +[Illustration: BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union +Pacific Ry.] + +The trip from Portland by rail to "The Dalles," if the tourist should +chance not to arrive in Portland by the Union Pacific line from the +east, will be found charming. It is eighty-eight miles distant. +Multnomah Falls is reached in thirty-two miles; Bonneville, forty-one +miles, at the foot of the Cascades; five miles farther is the +stupendous government lock now in process of building around the +rapids; Hood river, sixty-six miles, where tourists leave for the +ascent of Mount Hood. It is about forty miles through a picturesque +region to the base of the mountain. Then from Hood river, an ice-cold +stream, twenty-two miles into "The Dalles," where the steamer may be +taken for the return trip. In this eighty-eight miles from Portland to +"The Dalles" there are twelve miles of trestles and bridges. The +railway follows the Columbia's brink the entire distance to within a +few miles of the city. The scenery is impressively grand; the bluffs, +if they may be so called, are bold promontories attaining majestic +heights. One timber shute, where the logs come whizzing into the river +with the velocity of a cannon-ball, is 3,328 feet long, and it is +claimed a log makes the trip in twenty seconds. + +THE LOWER COLUMBIA. + +_Second Tour_.--While the Upper Columbia abounds in scenery of wild and +picturesque beauty, the tourist must by no means neglect a trip down +the lower river from Portland to Astoria and Ilwaco, and return. The +facilities now offered by the Union Pacific in its splendid fleet of +steamers render this a delightful excursion. On a clear day, one may +enjoy at the junction of the Willamette with the Columbia a very +wonderful sight--five mountain peaks are on view: St. Helens, Mt. +Jefferson, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Rainier. St. Helens, queen of +the Cascade Range, a fair and graceful cone. Exquisite mantling snows +sweep along her shoulders toward the bristling pines. Not far from her +base, the Columbia crashes through the mountains in a magnificent +chasm, and Mt. Hood, the vigorous prince of the range, rises in a keen +pyramid some 12,000 feet. Small villages and landing-places line the +shores, almost too numerous to mention. There are, of the more +important, St. Johns, St. Helens, Columbia City, Kalama, Rainier, +Westport, Cathlamet, Knappa, and Astoria at the mouth, a busy place of +6,000 people. Salmon canneries there are without number. It is about 98 +miles by the chart from Portland to Astoria. Across the bay is the +pretty town of Ilwaco. Ft. Canby and Cape Disappointment look across to +Ft. Stevens and Point Adams. From Astoria, one may drive eighteen miles +to Clatsop Beach, famous for its clams, crab, and trout, and Ben +Holliday's hotel. But the fullest enjoyment is obtained by making a +round trip, including a lay-over at Ilwaco all night, and returning to +Portland next day, and sleeping on board the boat. A railway runs from +the town to the outside beach, a mile and a half distant. There is a +drive twenty-five miles long up this long beach to Shoal Water Bay, +which is beautiful beyond description. This district is the great +supply point for oysters, heavy shipments being made as far south as +San Francisco. Sea bathing, both here and at Clatsop Beach, is very +fine. + +The boats of the Union Pacific Ry. on the Columbia leave nothing to be +desired. The "T.J. Potter," a magnificent side-wheel steamer, made her +first trip in July, 1888. She is 235 feet long, 35 feet beam, and 10 +feet hold, with a capacity of 600 passengers. The saloon and +state-rooms are fitted with every convenience, and handsomely +decorated. The "Potter" was built entirely in Portland, and the +citizens naturally take great pride in the superb vessel. In August, +1888, this steamer made the run from her berth at Portland to the +landing stage at Astoria in five hours and thirty-one minutes. Then +there are two night passenger boats from Portland down, the "R.R. +Thompson" and the "S.G. Reed," both stern-wheelers of large size, +spacious, roomy boats, well appointed in every particular. The Thompson +is 215 feet long, 38 feet beam, and 1,158 tons measurement. In addition +to these, there are two day mail passenger and freight boats; they +handle the way traffic; the larger boats above mentioned make the run +direct from Portland to Astoria without any landings. + +SOME RANDOM NOTES. + +A mistaken idea has possessed many tourists that the Puget Sound steamers +start from Portland; they leave Tacoma for all points on the Sound, and +Tacoma is about 150 miles by rail from Portland. + +One steamer sails every twelfth day from Portland to Seattle. + +One steamer per month leaves Portland for Alaska, but she touches at Port +Townsend before proceeding north. + +One steamship leaves Tacoma for Alaska during the season of 1890, about +every fifteen days, from June to September. + +The Ocean steamers sail every fourth day from Portland to San Francisco. + +There are semi-weekly boats between Portland and Corvallis, and +tri-weekly between Portland and Salem. + +On the Sound there are three boats each way, daily (except Sunday), +between Tacoma and Seattle; one boat each way, daily (except Sunday), +between Tacoma and Victoria; one boat each way, daily (except Sunday), +between Seattle and Whatcom, and one boat, daily (except Sunday), between +Whatcom and Seminahmoo. + +Only one class of tickets is sold on the River and Sound boats; on the +Ocean steamers there are two classes: cabin and steerage. The steerage +passengers on the Ocean steamers have a dining-room separate from the +first-class passengers--on the lower deck--and are given abundance of +wholesome food, tea and coffee. + +On River and Sound boats, a ticket does not include meals and berths, but +it does on the ocean voyage, or the Alaska trip. The usual price for meals +is 50 cents, and they will be found uniformly excellent. Breakfast, lunch, +and a 6 o'clock dinner are served. + +The price of berths on these boats runs from 50 cents for a single berth +to $3 per day for the bridal chamber. + +No liquors of any kind are kept on sale on any River or Sound steamer, +but a small stock of the best brands will be found on the Ocean steamers. + +State-rooms on the River and Sound steamers are provided with one double +lower and one single upper berth. + +Passengers can, if they choose, purchase the full accommodation of a +state-room. + +The steerage capacity of each of the three Ocean steamers is about 300. + +The diagram of the Ocean steamers and the night boats to Astoria can +always be found at the Union Ticket Office of the Union Pacific Railway +in Portland, corner First and Oak Streets. + +Tourists receive more than an ordinary amount of attention on these +steamers, more than is possible to pay them on a railway train. The +pursers will be found polite and obliging, always ready to point out +places of interest and render those little attentions which go so far +toward making travel pleasant. + +On River and Sound boats, the forward cabin is generally the +smoking-room, the cabin amidships is used for a "Social Hall," and the +"After Saloon" is always the ladies' cabin. + +All Union Pacific steamers in the Ocean service are heated with steam and +lighted with electricity; all have pianos and a well-selected library. The +beds on these boats are well-nigh perfect, woven-wire springs and heavy +mattresses. They are kept scrupulously clean--the company is noted for +that--and the steerage is as neat as the main saloon. + +One hundred and fifty pounds of baggage is allowed free on board both +boats and trains. + +Boats leaving terminal points at any time between 10 p.m. and 7 a.m., +arrange so that passengers can go on board after 7 p.m. and retire to +their state-rooms, thus enjoying an unbroken night's rest. + +Sea-sickness is never met with on the Sound, and very rarely on the +voyage from Portland to San Francisco. On the Pacific, the ship is never +out of sight of land, and the sea is as smooth as a mill-pond. + +The heaviest swell encountered is going over the Columbia River Bar. The +ocean is uniformly placid during the summer months. The trip, with its +freedom from the dust, rush, and roar of a train, and the inexorable +restraint one always feels on the cars, is a delightful one, and with +larger comforts and more luxurious surroundings, one enjoys the added +pleasure of courteous and thoughtful service from the various officers of +the ship. + +Taking the "Columbia" as a sample of the class of steamships in the +Union Pacific fleet, we notice that she is 334 feet long, 2,200 +horse-power, nearly 3,000 tonnage, has 65 state-rooms, and can +accommodate 200 saloon and 200 steerage passengers. Steam heat and +electric light are used. In 1880 the first plant from Edison's factory +was put on board the "Columbia," at that time a great curiosity, she +being the first ship to use the incandescent light. + +[Illustration: CRATER LAKE, ORE. +Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +CRATER LAKE. + +Crater Lake is situate in the northwestern portion of Klamath county, +Oregon, and is best reached by leaving the Southern Pacific Railroad at +Medford, which is 328 miles south of Portland, and about ninety miles +from the lake, which can be reached by a very good wagon road. The lake +is about six miles wide by seven miles long, but it is not its size +which is its beauty or its attraction. The surface of the water in the +lake is 6,251 feet above the level of the sea, and is surrounded by +cliffs or walls from 1,000 to over 2,000 feet in height, and which are +scantily covered with timber, and which offer at but one point a way of +reaching the water. The depth of the water is very great, and it is +very transparent, and of a deep blue color. Toward the southwestern +portion of the lake is Wizard Island, 845 feet high, circular in shape, +and slightly covered with timber. In the top of this island is a +depression, or crater--the Witches' Caldron--100 feet deep, and 475 +feet in diameter, which was evidently the last smoking chimney of a +once mighty volcano, and which is now covered within, as without, with +volcanic rocks. North of this island, and on the west side of the lake, +is Llao Rock, reaching to a height of 2,000 feet above the water, and +so perpendicular that a stone may be dropped from its summit to the +waters at its base, nearly one-half mile below. + +So far below the surrounding mountains is the surface of the waters in +this lake, that the mountain breezes but rarely ripple them; and looking +from the surrounding wall, the sky and cliffs are seen mirrored in the +glassy surface, and it is with difficulty the eye can distinguish the +line where the cliffs leave off and their reflected counterfeits begin. + +OREGON NATIONAL PARK. + +Townships 27, 28, 29, 30, and 31, in Ranges 5 and 6 east of the +Willamette meridian, are asked to be set apart as the Oregon National +Park. This area contains Crater Lake and its approaches. The citizens of +Oregon unanimously petitioned the President for the reservation of this +park, and a bill in conformity with the petition passed the United States +Senate in February, 1888. + + * * * * * + +_Third Tour_.--From Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma. + +WASHINGTON + +Is 340 miles long by about 240 wide. The first actual settlement by +Americans was made at Tumwater in 1845. Prior to this, the country was +known only to trappers and fur traders. Territorial government was +organized in 1853, and Washington was admitted as a State, November, +1889. The State is almost inexhaustibly rich in coal and lumber, and +has frequently been called the "Pennsylvania of the Pacific Coast." The +precious metals are also found in abundance in many districts. The +yield of wheat is prodigious. Apples, pears, apricots, plums, prunes, +peaches, cherries, grapes, and all berries flourish in the greatest +profusion. Certain it is that there is no other locality where trees +bear so early and surely as here, and where the fruit is of greater +excellence, and where there are so few drawbacks. At the Centennial +Exposition, Washington Territory fruit-tables were the wonder of +visitors and an attractive feature of the grand display. This Territory +carried off seventeen prizes in a competitive contest where +thirty-three States were represented. + +It is a pleasant journey of 150 miles through the pine forests from +Portland to Tacoma. Any one of the splendid steamers of the Union +Pacific may be taken for a trip to Victoria. Leaving Tacoma in the +morning, we sail over that noble sheet of water, Puget Sound. The hills +on either side are darkly green, the Sound widening slowly as we go. +Seattle is reached in three hours, a busy town of 35,000 people, full +of vim, push, and energy. Twenty million dollars' worth of property +went up in flame and smoke in Seattle's great fire of June 6, 1889. The +ashes were scarcely cold when her enthusiastic citizens began to build +anew, better, stronger, and more beautiful than before. A city of +brick, stone, and iron has arisen, monumental evidence of the energy, +pluck, and perseverance of the people, and of their fervent faith in +the future of Seattle. Then Port Townsend, with its beautiful harbor +and gently sloping bluffs, "the city of destiny," beyond all doubt, of +any of the towns on the Sound. Favored by nature in many ways, Townsend +has the finest roadstead and the best anchorage ground in these waters, +and this must tell in the end, when advantages for sea trade are +considered. Victoria, B.C., is reached in the evening, and we sleep +that night in Her Majesty's dominions. The next day may be spent very +pleasantly in driving and walking about the city, a handsome town of +14,000 people. + +[Illustration: CASCADES, FROM THE OREGON SHORE, COLUMBIA RIVER. On the +Union Pacific Ry.] + +A thorough system of macadamized roads radiates from Victoria, +furnishing about 100 miles of beautiful drives. Many of these drives +are lined with very handsome suburban residences, surrounded with lawns +and parks. Esquimalt, near Victoria, has a fine harbor. This is the +British naval station where several iron-clads are usually stationed. +There is also an extensive dry-dock, hewn out of the solid rock, +capacious enough to receive large vessels. + +In the evening after dinner, one can return to the steamer and take +possession of a stateroom, for the boat leaves at four in the morning. +When breakfast time comes we are well on our return trip, and moving +past Port Townsend again. The majestic straits of Fuca, through which +we have passed, are well worth a visit; it is a taste of being at sea +without any discomfort, for the water is without a ripple. As we steam +homeward there is a vision which has been described for all time by a +master hand. "One becomes aware of a vast, white shadow in the water. +It is a giant mountain dome of snow in the depths of tranquil blue. The +smoky haze of an Oregon August hid all the length of its lesser ridges +and left this mighty summit based upon uplifting dimness. Only its +splendid snows were visible high in the unearthly regions of clear, +noonday sky. Kingly and alone stood this majesty without any visible +comrade, though far to the north and south there were isolated +sovereigns. This regal gem the Christians have dubbed Mount Rainier, +but more melodious is its Indian name, 'Tacoma.'" + +A LEGEND OF TACOMA. + +Theodore Winthrop, in his own brilliant way, tells a quaint legend of +Tacoma, as related to him by a frowsy Siwash at Nisqually. "Tamanous," +among the native Indians of this section, is a vague and +half-personified type of the unknown and mysterious forces of Nature. +There is the one all-pervading Tamanous, but there are a thousand +emanations, each one a tamanous with a small "t." Each Indian has his +special tamanous, who thus becomes "the guide, philosopher, and friend" +of every Siwash. The tamanous, or totem, types himself as a salmon, a +beaver, an elk, a canoe, a fir-tree, and so on indefinitely. In some of +its features this legend resembles strongly the immortal story of Rip +Van Winkle; it may prove interesting as a study in folk-lore. + +"Avarice, O, Boston tyee!" quoth the Siwash, studying me with dusky +eyes, "is a mighty passion. Know you that our first circulating medium +was shells, a small perforated shell not unlike a very opaque quill +toothpick, tapering from the middle, and cut square at both ends. We +string it in many strands and hang it around the neck of one we +love--namely, each man his own neck. And with this we buy what our +hearts desire. Hiaqua, we call it, and he who has most hiaqua is wisest +and best of all the dwellers on the Sound. + +"Now, in old times there dwelt here an old man, a mighty hunter and +fisherman. And he worshipped hiaqua. And always this old man thought +deeply and communed with his wisdom, and while he waited for elk or +salmon he took advice within himself from his demon--he talked with +tamanous. And always his question was, 'How may I put hiaqua in my +purse?' But never had Tamanous revealed to him the secret. There loomed +Tacoma, so white and glittering that it seemed to stare at him very +terribly and mockingly, and to know of his shameful avarice, and how it +led him to take from starving women their cherished lip and nose jewels +of hiaqua, and give them in return tough scraps of dried elk-meat and +salmon. His own peculiar tamanous was the elk. One day he was hunting +on the sides of Tacoma, and in that serene silence his tamanous began +to talk to his soul. 'Listen!' said tamanous--and then the great secret +of untold wealth was revealed to him. He went home and made his +preparations, told his old, ill-treated squaw he was going for a long +hunt, and started off at eventide. The next night he camped just below +the snows of Tacoma, but sunrise and he struck the summit together, for +there, tamanous had revealed to him, was hiaqua--hiaqua that should +make him the greatest and richest of his tribe. He looked down and saw +a hollow covered with snow, save at the centre, where a black lake lay +deep in a well of purple rock, and at one end of the lake were three +large stones or monuments. Down into the crater sprang the miser, and +the morning sunshine followed him. He found the first stone shaped like +a salmon head; the second like a kamas root, and the third, to his +great joy, was the carven image of an elk's head. This was his own +tamanous, and right joyous was he at the omen, so taking his elk-horn +pick he began to dig right sturdily at the foot of the monument. At the +sound of the very first blow he made, thirteen gigantic otters came out +of the black lake and, sitting in a circle, watched him. And at every +thirteenth blow they tapped the ground with their tails in concert The +miser heeded them not, but labored lustily for hours. At last, +overturning a thin scale of rock, he found a square cavity filled to +the brim with hiaqua. + +"He was a millionaire. + +"The otters retired to a respectful distance, recognizing him as a +favorite of Tamanous. + +"He reveled in the treasure, exulting. Deep as he could plunge his arm, +there was still more hiaqua below. It was strung upon elk sinews, fifty +shells on a string. But he saw the noon was passed, so he prepared to +depart. He loaded himself with countless strings of hiaqua, by fifties +and hundreds, so that he could scarcely stagger along. Not a string did +he hang on the tamanous of the elk, or the salmon, or the kamas--not +one--but turned eagerly toward his long descent. At once all the otters +plunged back into the lake and began to beat the waters with their tails; +a thick, black mist began to rise threateningly. Terrible are the storms +in the mountains--and Tamanous was in this one. Instantly the fierce +whirlwind overtook the miser. He was thrown down and flung over icy +banks, but he clung to his precious burden. Utter night was around him, +and in every crash and thunder of the gale was a growing undertone which +he well knew to be the voice of Tamanous. Floating upon this undertone +were sharper tamanous voices, shouting and screaming, always sneeringly, +'Ha, ha, hiaqua!--ha, ha, ha!' Whenever the miser attempted to continue +his descent the whirlwind caught him and tossed him hither and thither, +flinging him into a pinching crevice, burying him to the eyes in a snow +drift, throwing him on jagged boulders, or lacerating him on sharp lava +jaws. But he held fast to his hiaqua. The blackness grew ever deeper and +more crowded with perdition; the din more impish, demoniac, and devilish; +the laughter more appalling; and the miser more and more exhausted with +vain buffeting. He at last thought to propitiate exasperated Tamanous, +and threw away a string of hiaqua. But the storm was renewed blacker, +louder, crueler than before. String by string he parted with his +treasure, until at the last, sorely wounded, terrified, and weak, with a +despairing cry, he cast from him the last vestige of wealth, and sank +down insensible. + +[Illustration: ROOSTER ROCK, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +"It seemed a long slumber to him, but at last he woke. He was upon the +very spot whence he started at morning. He felt hungry, and made a +hearty breakfast of the chestnut-like bulbs of the kamas root, and took +a smoke. Reflecting on the events of yesterday, he became aware of an +odd change in his condition. He was not bruised and wounded, as he +expected, but very stiff only, and his joints creaked like the creak of +a lazy paddle on the rim of a canoe. His hair was matted and reached a +yard down his back. 'Tamanous,' thought the old man. But chiefly he was +conscious of a mental change. He was calm and content. Hiaqua and +wealth seemed to have lost their charm for him. Tacoma, shining like +gold and silver and precious stones of gayest lustre, seemed a benign +comrade and friend. All the outer world was cheerful, and he thought +he had never wakened to a fresher morning. He rose and started on +his downward way, but the woods seemed strangely transformed since +yesterday; just before sunset he came to the prairie where his lodge +used to be; he saw an old squaw near the door crooning a song; she was +decked with many strings of hiaqua and costly beads. It was his wife; +and she told him he had been gone many, many years--she could not tell +how many; that she had remained faithful and constant to him, and +distracted her mind from the bitterness of sorrow by trading in kamas +and magic herbs, and had thus acquired a genteel competence. But little +cared the sage for such things; he, was rejoiced to be at home and at +peace, and near his own early gains of hiaqua and treasure buried in +a place of security. He imparted whatever he possessed--material +treasures or stores of wisdom and experience--freely to all the land. +Every dweller came to him for advice how to spear the salmon, chase the +elk, or propitiate Tamanous. He became the great medicine man of the +Siwashes and a benefactor to his tribe and race. Within a year after he +came down from his long nap on the side of Tacoma, a child, my father, +was born to him. The sage lived many years, revered and beloved, and on +his death-bed told this history to my father as a lesson and a warning. +My father dying, told it to me. But I, alas! have no son; I grow old, +and lest this wisdom perish from the earth, and Tamanous be again +obliged to interpose against avarice, I tell the tale to thee, O Boston +tyee. Mayst thou and thy nation not disdain this lesson of an earlier +age, but profit by it and be wise!" + +So far the Siwash recounted his legend without the palisades of Fort +Nisqually, and motioning, in expressive pantomime, at the close, that he +was dry with big talk and would gladly "wet his whistle." + +The town of Tacoma contains about 15,000 inhabitants, and is in a highly +prosperous condition. From here one may start on the grand Alaskan tour, +winding up through all the wonders of sound and strait, bay and ocean, to +the far North summerland--a trip of most entrancing interest. The return +from Tacoma to Portland may be made by either rail or boat. + +So much has already been said in preceding pages about Puget Sound that +it would seem the subject might be somewhat overdone. But it still +remains to be said that justice can never be done to the scenic glories +of this beautiful inland sea. The views from different points, and from +almost every point on the Sound, are of sublime grandeur. On the east are +the Cascade Mountains, ranging from 5,000 to 14,444 feet in height, Mount +Rainier for Tacoma, (as it is also called) being of the latter altitude, +and only third in height of the mountains of the United States. On the +west are the Olympic Mountains, the highest peaks of which reach up to +8,000 feet. Both ranges, brilliantly snow-crowned, are within view at the +same time from various points, and the scenery in its entirety, with its +continual changefulness and features of sublimity, can not be excelled. +Strangers and travelers who have visited every part of the world never +leave the deck of the steamers while going through the waters of the +Sound country. In noting a single feature, Mount Rainier, Senator George +F. Edmunds wrote as follows: "I have been through the Swiss mountains, +and am compelled to own that there is no comparison between the finest +effects exhibited there and what is seen in approaching this grand and +isolated mountain. I would be willing to go 500 miles again to see that +scene. The Continent is yet in ignorance of what will be one of the +grandest show places, as well as sanitariums. If Switzerland is rightly +called the play-ground of Europe, I am satisfied that around the base of +Mt. Rainier will become a prominent place of resort, not for America +only, but for the world besides, with thousands of sites for building +purposes that are nowhere excelled for the grandeur of the view that can +be obtained from them, with topographical features that would make the +most perfect system of drainage both possible and easy, and with a most +agreeable and health-giving climate." + +A more enthusiastic writer says: "Puget Sound scenery is the grandest +scenery in the world. One has here in combination the sublimity of +Switzerland, the picturesqueness of the Rhine, the rugged beauty of +Norway, the breezy variety of the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence, +or the Hebrides of the North Sea, the soft, rich-toned skies of Italy, +the pastoral landscape of England, with velvet meadows and magnificent +groves, massed with floral bloom, and the blending tints and bold color +of the New England Indian summer. Features with which nothing within the +vision of another city can be placed in comparison are the Olympic range +of mountains in front of Seattle, and the sublime snow peaks of the +Rainier, Baker, Adams, and St. Helens, with their glaciers and robes of +eternal white, and the great falls of the Snoqualmie, 280 feet high, near +by." + +[Illustration: MOUNT ST. HELENS, WASHINGTON, FROM NEAR MOUTH OF THE +WILLAMETTE RIVER. Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +The geography and topography of this sheet are alone a wonder and a +study. Glance upon the map. The elements of earth and water seem to +have struggled for dominion one over the other. The Strait of Juan de +Fuca and the Gulf of Georgia to the south narrow into Admiralty Inlet; +the inlet penetrates the very heart of the Territory, cutting the land +into most grotesque shapes, circling and twisting into a hundred minor +inlets, into which flow a hundred rivers, fed in their turn by myriads +of smaller creeks and bayous--a veritable network of lakes, streams, +peninsulas, and islands which, with the mountain ranges backing the +landscapes on either hand, can not fail to be picturesque in the +extreme. Here on the placid bosom of this inland sea, the pleasure +seeker can enjoy all the delights and exhilarating influences of ocean +travel without its inconveniences. No sea sickness, no proneness to +reflect on "to be or not to be," but, amid the bracing breezes, the +steady, easy glide of the commodious steamer over pleasant waters, +takes him through scenes as fair as the poet's brightest dreams. This +"Mediterranean of the Pacific" throughout its length and breadth is +adorned with heavily-wooded and fantastically-formed islands. The giant +firs are the tallest and straightest in the world. Here the "Great +Eastern" came for her masts, and here thousands of ships obtain their +spars yearly. + +To repeat, the scenery is indeed something unsurpassed. A ride over these +placid waters, in and out, around rocky headlands, among woody mountains, +along beautiful beaches and graceful tongues of velvety meadows--all +'neath the shadows of towering, snow-clad peaks, is a delight worth days +of travel to experience. It enraptures the artist and enthuses even +ordinarily prosy folks. There is no single feature wanting to make of +such places as Tacoma, Seattle, and Port Townsend, the most delightful +and agreeable watering places in the world. Surrounded by magnificent and +picturesque scenery, with beautiful drives and lovely bays for yachting +purposes, with splendid fishing and sport of every description to be had, +with a climate that would charm a misanthrope, why should they not become +the favorite resorts on the Great West Coast? These facts led to the +building of the magnificent Hotel Tacoma, at a cost of a quarter of a +million dollars. Other such caravansaries will follow, and in time Puget +Sound will be famous the world over for its incomparable attractions for +the health and pleasure seeker. + +The average traveler has but a faint idea of the wonderful resources of +this grand empire. Puget Sound has about 1,800 miles of shore line, and +all along this long stretch is one vast and almost unbroken forest of +enormous trees. The forests are so vast that, although the saw-mills have +been ripping 500,000,000 feet of lumber out of them every year for the +past ten years, the spaces made by these inroads seem no more than garden +patches. An official estimate places the amount of standing timber in that +area at 500,000,000,000 feet, or a thousand years' supply, even at the +enormous rate the timber is now being felled and sawed. + +In the vicinity of Olympia, the capital of Washington, are a number of +popular resorts for sportsmen and campers--beautiful lakes filled with +voracious trout, and streams alive with the speckled mountain beauties. +The forests abound in bear and deer, while grouse, pheasants, quail, and +water-fowl afford fine sport to the hunter of small game. + +THE NEW EMPIRE OF EASTERN WASHINGTON. + +The recent extensions of the Union Pacific System have aided in the most +important way the development of the richest and most fertile lands of +Eastern Washington. The great plains of the Upper Columbia, stretching +from the river away to the far north, are incomparably rich, the soil of +great depth and wondrous fertility, rainless harvests, and a luxuriance +of farm and garden produce which is almost tropical in its wealth. This +favored region has been for years known as the + +PALOUSE COUNTRY, + +And is reached from Portland via Pendleton, on the main line of the Union +Pacific Ry. From Pendleton to Spokane Falls on the north the soil is rich +beyond belief; a black, loamy deposit so deep that it seems well-nigh +inexhaustible. This heavy soil predominates in the valleys, and while the +uplands are not so rich, still immense crops of wheat are raised. For +hundreds of miles on this new division of the Union Pacific the country +is a perfect garden land of wheat and fruit, and these farms are often of +mammoth proportions. Here are 13,000,000 acres of land possessing all the +requirements and advantages of climate and soil for the making of one +vast wheat-field. The enormous yield of 7,000,000 bushels of wheat has +been harvested in one valley. + +The authentic figures of the crop yield in this splendid country seem +almost incredible. Fifty thousand bushels of wheat have been raised on +1,000 acres of land. As low as 35 bushels and as high as 74-1/4 bushels +of wheat to the acre have been harvested in this section. The average +covered seems to be from 47 to 55 bushels per acre, and no fertilizers +of any sort being required. The berry in its full maturity is very +solid, weighing from 65 to 69 pounds per bushel, this being from five +to nine pounds over standard weight. While wheat is the staple product, +oats are also grown, the yield being very heavy. Rye, barley, and flax +are also successfully cultivated. Clover, bunch-grass, and alfalfa grow +finely. + +In the growing of fruits and vegetables this grand empire of Eastern +Washington is quite unsurpassed. At one of the recent agricultural +fairs a farmer exhibited 109 varieties of fruits, vegetables, and +cereals. These included the best qualities of Yellow Nansemond sweet +potatoes, mammoth melons of all varieties, eggplant, sorghum and syrup +cane, broom-corn, tobacco, grapes, cotton, peanuts, and many other +things, some of which do not attain to so high a degree of excellence +elsewhere farther north than the Carolinas. Peaches, apples, and prunes +of superior quality delighted the eye. Peaches had been marketed +continuously, from, the same orchards, from the 15th of July to the +15th of October. There were hanging in the pavilion diplomas awarded at +the New Orleans Exposition to citizens in this valley for exhibits of +the best qualities and greatest varieties of corn, wheat, oats, barley, +and hops. + +The advantage to the farmer of rainless harvesting months is obvious. The +wheat is all harvested by headers, leaving the straw on the ground for its +enrichment. Thus binding, hauling, and sacking are largely dispensed with. +The grain, when threshed, is piled on the ground in jute sacks, saving the +expense of granaries and hauling to and from them. These jute sacks cost +for each bushel of grain about 3 cents, which is far less than farmers +elsewhere are subjected to in hauling their grain to and from granaries +and through a system of elevators until it reaches shipboard. + +Here, as well as in Western Washington, most vegetables grow to an +enormous size, and are of superior quality when compared with the same +varieties grown in the East. Those kinds that require much heat, as +melons, tobacco, peppers, egg-plants, etc., grow to great perfection. The +root crops--beets, carrots, parsnips, potatoes, turnips, etc.--yield +prodigiously on the fertile bottom-land soils, without much care besides +ordinary cultivation. The table beet soon gets too large for the +dinner-pot. It is nothing unusual for a garden beet to weigh ten pounds, +and they often grow to eighteen or twenty pounds' weight. Mangel wurzel, +the stock beet, sometimes grows to forty and fifty pounds' weight, if +given room and proper cultivation. They may easily be made to produce +twenty-five tons per acre on good soil. All other vegetables, such as +parsnips, carrots, peas, beans, tomatoes, onions, cabbages, celery, and +cauliflower, are perfectly at home on every farm of Eastern Washington. +Market gardening is becoming quite an important pursuit, and holds out +particularly high inducements to the farmer, because of the superb market +now afforded by the non-producing mineral and timber regions, easily +accessible in this and adjacent Territories. + +There are over 2,000 square miles of arable land in this magnificent +region, and there has never been a crop failure since its settlement. +Outside of Government lands prices range at from $4 to $10 per acre for +unimproved, and from $12 to $20 for improved lands. + +[Illustration: HORSE TAIL FALLS, ORE. +On the Union Pacific Ry.] + +Along the line of Union Pacific in this grand new empire will be found +many energetic, thriving young towns, all possessing those social and +educational facilities which are now a part of every Western village. +Pendleton, on the main line, is a wide-awake, bustling young city, +situated in a fine agricultural district. Walla Walla, Athena, Weston, +Waitsburg, Dayton, Pullman, Garfield, Latah, Tekoa, Colfax, Moscow, +Farmington, and Rockford are all thriving towns, and are already good +distributing centers. The last-named town enjoys the advantage of being +in the center of a fine lumber district, and within a circuit of five +miles from Rockford there are ten saw-mills, besides an inexhaustible +supply of mica. Crossing the border into Idaho, rich silver and lead +mines are found along the Coeur d'Alene River. + +Rockford is twenty-four miles from Spokane Falls, and has about 1,000 +population; its elevation is 2,440 feet. Four miles distant is the +boundary of the Coeur d'Alene Reservation, a lovely tract, thirty by +seventy miles in extent, embracing beautiful Coeur d'Alene Lake and the +three rivers, St. Joseph, St. Marys, and Coeur d'Alene, which empty +into it. There about 250 Indians on this reservation, and they enjoy +the proud distinction of being the only tribe who refuse Government +aid. They have been offered the usual rations, but preferred to remain +independent. They live in houses, farm quite extensively, and use all +kinds of improved farm machinery; many of them are quite wealthy. The +lake is one of the prettiest sheets of water on the continent; its +waters are full of salmon, and in the heavy pine woods are many +varieties of game, from quail to grizzly bear and elk. The town of +Rockford will in the near future assume importance as a tourist point, +both from its own healthy and picturesque location, and its nearness to +Coeur d'Alene Lake. A Government Commission is now at work on a +settlement with the Indians, whereby the whole or a part of this noble +domain will be thrown open to the public. The peculiar attractions of +Coeur d'Alene must in a short time render it a much sought for resort. + +SPOKANE FALLS + +Is one of those miracles possible only in the alert, aggressive West. +When Mr. Hayes was inaugurated it was a blank wilderness. Not a single +civilized being lived within a hundred miles of it. One day in 1878 a +white man came along in a "bull team," saw the wild rapids and the mighty +falls of the Spokane River, reflected on the history of St. Paul and +Minneapolis with their little Falls of St. Anthony, looked at the tide of +immigration just turning toward the farther Northwest, and concluded he +would sit right down where he was and wait for a city to grow around him. +This far-sighted pioneer is still living within earshot of those rumbling +falls, and they make a cheerful music for him. The city is there with +him, 22,000 people, and he can draw a check to-day good for $1,000,000. +For several years his eyes fell on nothing but gravel-beds and foamy +waters. Now, as he looks around, he sees mills and factories, railroad +lines to the north, south, east, and west, churches, theatres, +school-houses, costly dwellings and stores, paved streets, and all that +makes living easy and comfortable. The greater part of this has come +within his vision since 1883. But even then there was quite a village. +After this pioneer had spent a lonely year or two on his homestead, two +other men came along. They were friends, who, upon an outing, had chanced +to meet. They were captivated by the waterfall, and by what the pioneer +told them of the fine fanning lands in the adjacent country, and they +offered each to take a third of his holding. Then they began to +advertise, and to place adventurous farmers on homestead claims. They +were wise in their day and generation, and they worked harder to fill the +country with grain-producers than to sell real estate around the falls. +They soon had their reward. The merchants were quickly provided with +store-houses, rental values were kept low, every inducement was offered +that could possibly stimulate building activity, and in three years the +farming country was made to perceive that Spokane was its natural point +of entry and of shipment. The turbulent waters of the Spokane River, a +clear and beautiful mountain stream, were caught above the falls, and +directed wherever the factories and mills that had been established above +them required their services. Four large flouring-mills quickly took +advantage of the rich opportunity growing out of this unique situation. +From two enormous agricultural areas they are enabled to draw their +supplies of grain, flour, therefore, being manufactured for the farmers +more cheaply at Spokane: than anywhere else. This circumstance alone +exercised a large influence in giving the new town a hold upon the +country districts. These constitute more than a region--they are really a +grand division of the State, and form what is known as the Great Plain of +the Columbia River. + +THE COEUR D'ALENE MINES + +Have reached a high and profitable state of development. These mines +extend over a comparatively limited area. They are close together, and +their ores, producing gold, silver, and lead, are all similar. Their +output for the last three years has been quite remarkable, and has placed +the Coeur d'Alene district among the foremost lead-producing regions in +the country. Gold, associated with iron, and treated by the free-milling +process, is largely found in the northern part of the district, but the +greatest amount of tonnage is derived from the southern country, where +the Galena silver mines, a dozen or more in number, have been discovered. +That minerals in large quantity existed in this country has been known for +years. But the want of railroad facilities for a long while prevented any +serious effort to get at them. The matter of transportation is now laid +at rest, and within the last three years $1,000,000 has been spent in +development. The returns have already more than justified the investment. + +Tributary to Spokane, and reached by the various railroads now in +operation, are five other mining districts, at Colville, Okanagan, +Kootenai, Metaline, and Pend d'Oreille. They are in various stages of +development, but their wealth and availability have been clearly +ascertained. Spokane's population, in a degree greater than that of most +all these new cities, consists of young men and young women from the New +England and Middle States. They have enjoyed a remarkable and wholly +uninterrupted period of prosperity. Some of them have grown quickly and +immensely rich from real estate operations, but the great majority have +yet to realize on their investments because of the large sacrifices they +have made in building up the city. They are to-day in an admirable +position. As they have made money they have spent it; spent it in street +railroads, in the laying out of drives, in the building of comfortable +houses, in the establishment of electrical plants, and in a large number +of local improvements, every one of which has borne its part in making +the city attractive. + +WONDERFUL VITALITY. + +It has been well said of Spokane Falls, that "it was another +fire-devastated city that did not seem to know it was hurt." + +If Washington can stand the loss of millions of dollars in its four great +fires of the year, at Cheney, Ellensburg, Seattle, and Spokane, it is the +strongest evidence that its recuperative powers have solid backing. It +does seem to stand the loss, and actually thrive under it. + +The great fire at Spokane Falls on the 4th of August, 1889, burned most +of the business portion of the city. Four hundred and fifty houses of +brick, stone, and wood were destroyed, entailing a loss, according to the +computation of the local agent of R.G. Dun & Co., of about $4,500,000. + +The insurance in the burned district amounted to $2,600,000. + +No people were ever in better condition to meet disaster, and none ever +met it with braver hearts or with quicker and more resolute determination +to survive the blow. + +The city was in the midst of a period of marvelous prosperity. Its +population was increasing rapidly, many fine buildings were in process of +construction, its trade was extending over a vast region of country which +was being penetrated by new railroads centering within its limits, and +there were flowing to it the rich fruits of half a dozen prosperous +mining districts. + +[Illustration: ONEONTA GORGE, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. On the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +Its working people were all employed at good wages, and money was +abundant with all classes. + +Hardly had the sun of the day following the fire risen upon the scene of +smoking desolation, when preparations began for rebuilding. It was felt +at once that the city would be rebuilt more substantially and more +handsomely than before. + +The rebuilding of Spokane commenced on a very extensive scale; the city +will be entirely restored within twelve months, and far more attractively +than ever before. The class of buildings erected are of a very superior +character. The new Opera House has been modeled after the Broadway +Theatre, New York; the new Hotel Spokane, a structure creditable not only +to the city, but to the entire Pacific Northwest; five National Bank +buildings, at a cost of $100,000 each; upon the burned district have +arisen buildings solid in substance, and beautiful architecturally, +varying from five to seven stories in height, and costing all the way +from $60,000 to $300,000. This sturdy young giant of the North arises +from her ashes stronger, more attractive, more substantial, than before. +And there is abundant reason for solid faith in the future of Spokane +Falls. + +It is the metropolis of a region 200,000 square miles in extent, +including 50,000 square miles of Washington, or all that portion east of +the Cascade Mountains, more than half of Idaho, the northern and eastern +portions of Oregon, a large part of Montana, and as much of British +Columbia as would make a State as large as New York. + +It is the distributing point for the Coeur d'Alene, the Colville, the +Kootenai, and the Okanagan mining districts, all of which are in a +prosperous condition, and all of which are yielding rich and growing +tributes of trade. + +It has adjacent to it the finest wheat-growing country in the world, +producing from 30 to 60 bushels per acre. + +It has adjacent to it a country equally rich in the production of fruits +and vegetables. + +It has adjacent to it the finest meadow lands between the Cascade and +Rocky Mountains. + +It has adjacent to it extensive grazing lands, on which are hundreds of +thousands of cattle, sheep, and horses. + +It has, adjacent to it, on Lakes Pend d'Oreille and Coeur d'Alene, +inexhaustible quantities of white pine, yellow pine, cedar and tamarack, +the manufacturing of which into lumber is one of the important industries +of the city, and a source of great future income. + +It has a power in the falls of the Spokane River second to none in the +United States, and capable of supplying construction room and power for +300 different mills and manufactories. The entire electric lighting plant +of the city, the cable railway system, the electric railway system, the +machinery for the city water works, and all the mills and factories of +the city--the amount of wheat which was last year ground into flour +exceeding 20,000 tons--are now operated by the power from the falls. One +company alone, the Washington Water Power Company, having a capital of +$1,000,000, is now spending upward of $300,000 in the construction of +flumes and other improvements for the accommodation of new mills and +factories. + +Most fortunately for the city, all the milling properties and +improvements on the falls and along the river were saved from the fire. + +The city has a water-works system which cost nearly half a million +dollars, and which is capable of supplying 12,000,000 gallons daily, or +as much as the supply of Minneapolis when it had a population of 100,000, +or as much as the present supply of Denver with a population of 120,000, +and more than the City of Portland, Oregon, with a population of 60,000. + +A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SPOKANE FALLS. + +It requires no very profound knowledge of Western geography, no very +lengthy study of the State of Washington, to enable anyone to understand +without difficulty some of the minor reasons why Spokane Falls should +become a great and important city, the metropolis of a vast surrounding +country. A glance at the map will show the mountain range that extends up +through the Idaho Panhandle, and then along the British Columbia frontier, +to the east and north of the city. These mountains are incalculably rich +in ores of all kinds, and would amply suffice to make a Denver of Spokane +Falls, even if she had no other natural resources to draw from. The +Spokane River is the outlet of Lake Coeur d'Alene, a sheet of water sixty +miles by six, which is fed by the St. Joseph, St. Mary and Coeur d'Alene +Rivers, and which flows through a vast plain until it empties its waters +into the Columbia, the Mississippi of the Pacific Coast. From its point +of junction with the Spokane, the Columbia makes a big bend in its course +until the Snake River is reached, when it turns once more westward, and +flows on to empty into the Pacific Ocean. South of the city, stretching +westward for some distance from the mountains, and extending in a +southerly direction to the Clearwater and Snake Rivers, is a vast country +comprising millions of acres, through which the Palouse River and its +tributary streams meander, and which is known as the Palouse Valley, a +country of unlimited agricultural resources. In the center of all this +immense territory is located Spokane Falls, like the hub in the center of +a wheel. The word immense is not used unwittingly, for the mountains and +plains and valleys make up a country that in Europe would be called a +nation, and in New England would form a State. Only a far-off corner of +the Union, it may seem to some readers, yet there are powerful empires +which possess less natural resources than it can call its own. The city +itself lies on both sides of the Spokane River, at the point where that +stream, separated by rocky islands into five separate channels, rushes +onward and downward, at first being merely a series of rapids, and then +tumbling over the rocks in a number of beautiful and useful waterfalls, +until the several streams unite once again for a final plunge of sixty +feet, making a fall of 157 feet in the distance of half a mile. This +waterfall, with its immense power, would alone make a city; engineers +have estimated its force at 90,000 horse-power, and it is so distributed +that it can be easily utilized. + +[Illustration: A FISH WHEEL, COLUMBIA RIVER. On the Union Pacific Ry.] + + * * * * * + +_Fourth Tour_.--To + +ALASKA. + +The native islanders called the mainland "Al-ay-ek-sa," which signifies +"great country," and the word has been corrupted into "Alaska." This +immense empire, it will be remembered, was sold by Russia to the United +States October 18, 1867, for $7,500,000. The country was discovered by +Vitus Behring in 1741. Alaska has an area of 578,000 square miles, and is +nearly one-fifth as large as all the other States and Territories +combined. It is larger than twelve States the size of New York. + +The best time to visit Alaska is from May to September. The latter month +is usually lovely, and the sea beautifully smooth, but the days begin to +grow short. The trip occupies about twenty-five days. + +As the rainfall in Alaska is usually very large, it naturally follows +that an umbrella is a convenient companion. A gossamer for a lady and a +mackintosh for a gentleman, and heavy shoes, and coarse, warm and +comfortable clothing for both should be provided. + +There are no "Palace" hotels in Alaska. One will have no desire to remain +over there a trip. The tourist goes necessarily when and where the steamer +goes, will have an opportunity to see all there is of note or worth seeing +in Southeastern Alaska. The steamer sometimes goes north as far as +Chilcat, say up to about the 58th degree of north latitude. The pleasure +is not so much in the stopping as in the going. One is constantly passing +through new channels, past new islands, opening up new points of interest, +until finally a surfeit of the grand and magnificent in nature is reached. + +A correspondent of a western journal signing himself "Emerald" has +written a description of this Alaskan tour in September, 1888. It is so +charmingly done, so fresh, so vivid, and so full of interesting detail, +that it is given herewith entire: + +ON STEAMSHIP "GEORGE W. ELDER," + +PUGET SOUND, September, 1888. + +We have all thought we were fairly appreciative of the wealth and wonders +of Uncle Sam's domain. At Niagara we have gloried in the belief that all +the cataracts of other lands were tame; but we changed our mind when we +stood on the brink of Great Shoshone Falls. In Yellowstone the proudest +thought was that all the world's other similar wonders were commonplace; +and at Yosemite's Inspiration Point the unspeakable thrill of awe and +delight was richly heightened by the grand idea that there was no such +majesty or glory beyond either sea. But after all this, we now know that +it yet remains for the Alaskan trip to rightly round out one's +appreciation and admiration of the size and grandeur of our native land. + +Some of our most delighted _voyageurs_ are from Portland, Maine. When +they had journeyed some 1,500 miles to Omaha they imagined themselves +at least half way across our continent. Then, when they had finished +that magnificent stretch of some 1,700 miles more from Omaha to +Portland, Oregon, in the palace cars of the Union Pacific, they were +quite sure of it. Of course, they confessed a sense of mingled +disappointment and eager anticipation when they learned that they were +yet less than half way. They learned what is a fact--that the extreme +west coast of Alaska is as far west of Sitka as Portland, Maine, is +east of Portland, Oregon, and the further fact that San Francisco lacks +4,000 mile's of being as far west as Uncle Sam's "Land's End," at +extreme Western Alaska. It is a great country; great enough to contain +one river--the Yukon--about as large as the Mississippi, and a coast +line about twice as long as all the balance of the United States. It is +twelve times as large as the State of New York, with resources that +astonish every visitor, and a climate not altogether bad, as some would +have it. The greatest trouble is that during the eighteen years it has +been linked to our chain of Territories it has been treated like a +discarded offspring or outcast, cared for more by others than its +lawful protector. But, like many a refugee, it is carving for itself a +place which others will yet envy. But, to + +OUR TRIP. + +There are seven in our party, mainly from Chicago. After a week of +delightful mountaineering at Idaho Springs, in Platte Canon, and other +Union Pacific resorts in Colorado, we indulged in that delicious plunge +at Garfield Beach, Salt Lake, and, en route to Portland over the Union +Pacific Ry., quaffed that all but nectar at Soda Springs, Idaho, and +dropped off a day to take a peep, at Shoshone Falls, which, in all +seriousness, have attractions of which even our great Niagara can not +boast. We found that glorious dash down through the palisades of the +Columbia, and the sail, through the entrancing waterways of Puget Sound, +a fitting prelude to our recent Alaskan journey. + +The Alaskan voyage is like a continuous dream of pleasure, so placid and +quiet are the waters of the landlocked sea and so exquisitely beautiful +the environment. The route keeps along the east shore of Vancouver Island +its entire length, through the Gulf of Georgia, Johnstone strait, and out +into Queen Charlotte Sound, where is felt the first swell of old ocean, +and our staunch steamship "Elder" was rocked in its cradle for about four +hours. Oftentimes we seemed to be bound by mountains on every side, with +no hope of escape; but the faithful deck officer on watch would give his +orders in clear, full tones that brought the bow to some passage leading +to the great beyond. In narrow straits the steamer had to wait for the +tide; then would she weave in and out, like a shuttle in a loom, among +the buoys, leaving the black ones on the left and the red ones on the +right, and ever and anon they would be in a straight line, with the +wicked boulder-heads visible beneath the surface or lifting their savage +points above, compelling almost a square corner to be turned in order to +avoid them. At such times the passengers were all on deck, listening to +the captain's commands, and watching the boat obey his bidding. + +From Victoria to Tongas Narrows the distance is 638 miles, and here was +the first stop for the tourists. The event here was going ashore in +rowboats, and in the rain, only to see a few dirty Indians--a foresight +of what was to follow--and a salmon-packing house not yet in working +order. + +From Tongas Narrows to Fort Wrangel, thousands of islands fill the water, +while the mainland is on the right and Prince of Wales Island on the +extreme left. + +FORT WRANGEL. + +Like all Alaska towns, it is situated at the base of lofty peaks along +the water's edge at the head of moderately pretty harbors. It seems to be +the generic home of storms, and the mountains, the rocks, the buildings, +and trees, and all, show the weird workings of nature's wrath. In 1863 it +was a thriving town where miners outfitted for the mines of the Stikeen +river and Cassian mines of British Columbia; but that excitement has +temporarily subsided, and the $150,000 government buildings are falling +in decay. The streets are filled with debris, and everything betokens the +ravages of time. The largest and most grotesque totem poles seen on the +trip here towered a height of fifty feet. Those poles represent a history +of the family and the ancestry as far as they can trace it. If they are of +the Wolf tribe a huge wolf is carved at the top of the pole, and then on +down with various signs to the base, the great events of the family and +the intermarriages, not forgetting to give place to the good and bad gods +who assisted them. The genealogy of a tribe is always traced back through +the mother's side. The totem poles are sometimes very large, perhaps four +feet at the base. When the carving is completed they are planted firmly in +front of the hut, there to stay until they fall away. At the lower end, +some four feet from the ground, there is an opening into the already +hollowed pole, and in this are put the bones of the burned bodies of the +family. It is only the wealthier families who support a totem pole, and +no amount of money can induce an Indian to part with his family tree. + +[Illustration: SITKA HARBOR, ALASKA. +Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +THE GRAVES + +of those not having totems are found in clusters, or scattered on the +mountain sides, or anywhere convenience dictates. The bones are put in a +box with all the belongings of the deceased, and then deposited anywhere. +The natives are exceedingly superstitious and jealous in their care of the +dead, and would sooner die than molest or steal from a grave. That +tourists who are supposed to be civilized, refined, and Christianized +should steal from them is a crime which should never be tolerated, as it +was among the passengers of our steamer. + +The natives have a belief that all bodies cremated turn into ravens, and +that probably accounts to them for the endless number of those birds in +Alaska. Ravens are sacred birds to them, and are never molested in +anyway. There are other methods of disposing of the dead in different +parts of Alaska. The bones are sometimes put in a canoe and raised high +in the air on straddles; again, in trees above the reach of prowling +animals, or set adrift in a discarded canoe. + +JUNEAU--THE TREADWELL MINE. + +After leaving Wrangel the steamer anchored off Salmon Bay to lighter +eighty tons of salt for fishermen, then on to Juneau and Douglas Islands. +Here was the same general appearance of location, the gigantic background +of densely wooded mountains, the tide-washed streets, on broken slopes, +the dirty native women with their wares for sale, with prices advanced +200 per cent, since the steamer whistled, and behind them their stern +male companions, goading them on to make their sales, and stealthily +kicking them in their crouched positions if they came down on their +prices to an eager but economical tourist. + +Juneau is the only town of any importance on the mainland. It has arisen +to that dignity through the quality of its mines, and it is now the +mining centre of Alaska. Here we found Edward I. Parsons, of San +Francisco, erecting an endless-rope tramway for conducting ores to a +ten-stamp mill now under construction. Mr. Parsons has had large +experience in this line, and his tales of "Tramway Life" in Mexico are +intensely thrilling and full of interest. It is to be hoped that the good +people of Juneau will see to it that he does not have to eat the native +dishes, as he did in the land of the greasers. The festive dog is all +right in his place, but rather revolting to an epicure. + +The famous Treadwell gold mine lies across the bay, on Douglas Island. It +is noted, not so much for its richness per ton, but for its vast extent. +The 120-stamp mill makes such a deafening noise that there is no fear +that the curious minded will cause employes to waste any time answering +questions, for nothing can be heard but the rise and fall of the great +crushers and the crunching of the ores. The ore is so plentiful that an +addition of 120 stamps is being added to the present capacity. The hole +blasted by the miners looks like the crater of a huge volcano without the +circling top, and sloping down to an apex from which is the tunnel to the +mill. The Treadwell yields about $200,000 per month, and will double that +when the mill is completed. + +There are many pleasant homes in Juneau, and some of its society people +are charming indeed. The business houses carry some large stocks of +goods, and outfitting for the interior mines in the Yukon country is all +done at this place. There are two weekly papers, one the _Mining Record_, +an eight-page, bright, newsy paper which deserves a liberal support. + +One of the most novel and grotesque features of the entire trip was a +dance given by the Indians at + +A "POTLATCH," + +a term applied to any assemblage of good cheer, although in its primary +sense it means a gift. A potlatch is given at the outset, or during the +progress of some important event, such as the building of a new house, +confirming of a sub-chief, or celebrating any good fortune, either of +peace or war. In this instance, a sub-chief was building a new house, and +the frame work was inclosed in rough boards with no floor laid. There is +never but one entrance to an Indian hut. This is in front, and elevated +several feet from the ground, so that you must go down from the door-sill +inside as well as out. No windows were yet in the building, and it was +really in a crude state. These grand festivities last five days, and this +was the second day of merry-making. + +There are two tribes at Juneau, located at each extreme of the town. The +water was black with canoes coming to the feast and dance, bringing gifts +to the tyhee, who, in return, gives them gifts according to their wealth, +and a feast of boiled rice and raisins and dog-meat. The richest men of +the tribe dressed, in the rear of the building, in the wildest and most +fantastic garbs, some in skins of wild animals. There was a full panoply +of blankets, feathers, guns, swords, knives, and, as a last resort, an +old broom was covered with a scarlet case. Jingling pendant horns added +to their usual order, and the savage faces were painted with red and +black in hideous lines. Anything their minds could shape was rigged for a +head-dress, and finally, when all was ready, they ran with fiendish yells +toward the beach, some twenty yards, and there behind a canvas facing the +water they began their strange dance. + +Only one squaw was with them, and she was the wife of the tyhee (chief) +giving the feast. The medicine man had a large bird with white breast, +called the loon. While dancing he picked the white feathers and scattered +them on the heads of the others. The other squaws were sitting on the +ground in long rows in front of the canoes reaching to the water's edge, +about 200 feet below. + +Their music was a wild shout or croon by all the tribe, and the dancing +is a movement in any irregular way, or a swaying motion given to the time +given by the voices, and they only advanced a few inches in an hour's +time. + +The tribe approaching in canoes had their representative men dressed in +the same styles, only gayer, if possible. When the canoes glided onto the +beach, four abreast, it was the signal to drop the canvas hiding the host +and party, and advance a little distance to meet them. Then they broke +ranks and made way for the visitors to approach the house with their +gifts of blankets or other valuables for the tyhee. Most of the Indians +convert their riches into blankets. These nations, seen by the tourist in +an ordinary trip to Alaska, seem very much the same in all points visited. +None of them are poor, all have some money, and many have + +WEALTH COUNTED BY THOUSANDS. + +To be sure, some of them are in a measure Christianized, but the odors +arising from the homes of the best of them are such as a civilized nose +never scented before. Rancid grease, dried fish, pelts, decaying animals, +and human filth made the strongest perfume known to the commercial or +social world. + +[Illustration: GRANVILLE CHANNEL, ALASKA. Reached via the Union Pacific +Ry.] + +The squaws, if they were in mourning or in love, would have their faces +painted black with oil and tar. Then again, a great many wear a wooden or +ivory pin thrust through the lip just below the fleshy part. It is worn +for ornament, the same as ear-rings or nose-rings, and is called a +labret. The missionary work done among them is a commendable one, but it +seems a hopeless task. Their houses are always built with one object in +view, to be able to tie the canoe to the front door. A long row of huts +just above high-tide line can always be safely called a rancherie in that +country. Their food is brought by the tide to their very doors, and the +timbered mountains abound in wild game, and offer ample fuel for the +cutting. + +Chilcot, or Pyramid Harbor, is about twelve hours run from Juneau, and it +is here the famous Chilcot blanket is made from the goat's wool, woven by +hand, and dyed by native dyes, and worked from grotesque patterns. Here, +also, are two of the largest salmon canneries in Alaska, and here, +indeed, were we in the + +LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. + +The hours passed quickly by as the supposed night wore away. At midnight +the twilight was so bright that one could read a newspaper easily. Then +the moon shone in the clear sky with all regal splendor until 3.30 in the +morning, when old Sol again put in his claims for admission. He lifted his +golden head above the snowy peaks, and spirited away the uncertain light +of unfolding dawn by drawing the curtains of the purpling east, and +sending floods of radiance upon the entire world. It was a sight never to +be forgotten, if seen but once in a lifetime. + +Onward once again when the tide was in, and our next awakening was on the +grand glacier fields. The greatest sight of the entire trip, or of any +other in America, now opened out before many eager eyes. For several +days, icebergs had been seen sailing along on the smooth surface from the +great glaciers, and speeding to the southern seas like phantom ships. As +the ship neared the bay, these huge bergs increased in size and number, +with such grotesque and weird shapes, that the mind is absorbed in +shaping turrets, ghosts, goblins, and the like, each moment developing +more and more of things unearthly, until the heart and eyes seem bursting +with the strain, when suddenly a great roar, like the shock of an +explosion of giant powder, turns the eyes to the parent glacier to see +the birth of these unnatural forms. They break from the icy wall with a +stupendous crash, and fall into the water with such force as to send our +great ship careening on her side when the swell from the disturbed waters +strikes her. + +The Muir glacier is the one that occupies the most attention, as it is +the most accessible to tourists. It rises to a perpendicular height of +350 feet, and stretches across the entire head of the Glacier Bay, which +is estimated from three to five miles in width. The Muir and Davidson +glaciers are two arms of that great Ice field extending more than 400 +miles in length, covering more area + +THAN ALL SWITZERLAND, + +and any one of the fifteen subdivisions of the glacial stream is as large +as the Great Rhone glacier. + +Underlying this great ice field is that glacial river which bears these +mountains of ice on its bosom to the ocean. With a roar like distant +artillery, or an approaching thunder-storm, the advancing walls of this +great monster split and fall into the watery deep, which has been sounded +to a depth of some 800 feet without finding anchor. + +The glacial wall is a rugged, uneven mass, with clefts and crevices, +towering pinnacles and domes, higher than Bunker Hill monument, cutting +the air at all angles, and with a stupendous crash sections break off +from any portion without warning and sink far out of sight. Scarcely two +minutes elapse without a portion falling from some quarter. The marble +whiteness of the face is relieved by lines of intense blue, a +characteristic peculiar to the small portions as well as the great. + +Going ashore in little rowboats, the vast area along the sandy beach was +first explored, and it was, indeed, like a fairy land. There were acres +of grottoes, whose honey-combed walls were most delicately carved by the +soft winds and the sunlight reflections around and in the arches of ice, +such as are never seen except in water, ice, and sky. + +MOUNTAINS OF ICE, + +remnants of glaciers, along the beach, stood poised on one point, or +perchance on two points, and arched between. These icebergs were dotted +with stones imbedded; great bowls were melted out and filled with water, +and little cups made of ice would afford you a drink of fresh water on +the shore of this salt sea. + +At five o'clock in the morning, with the sun kissing the cold majestic +glacier into a glad awakening from its icy sleep, the ascent was begun. +Too eager to be among the first to see the top, many started without +breakfast, while others chose the wiser part, and waited to be physically +fortified. + +The ascent is not so difficult as it is dangerous. There is no trail and +no guide, and many a step had to be retraced to get across or around some +bottomless fissure. For some distance the ground seemed quite solid. Soon +it was discovered that there was but a thin covering of dirt on the solid +ice below; but anon in striking the ground with the end of an alpine stick +it would prove to be but an inch of ice and dirt mixed, and a dark abyss +below which we could not fathom. It is to be hoped, for the good of +future tourists, that there are not many such places, or that they may +soon be exposed so they can be avoided. Reaching the top after a tedious +and slippery climb, there was a long view of icy billows, as if the sea +had suddenly congealed amid a wild tempestuous storm. Deep chasms +obstructed the way on all sides, and a misstep or slip would send one +down the blue steps where no friendly rope could rescue, and only the +rushing water could be heard. To view the solid phalanxes of icy floes, +as they fill the mountain fastnesses and imperceptibly march through the +ravines and force their way to the sea, fills one with awe indescribable. +The knowledge that the ice is moving from beneath one's feet thrills one +with a curious sensation hard to portray. + +Below, it seems like the constant wooing of the sea that wins the +offering from this wealth of purity, instead of the voluntary act of this +giant of the Arctic zone. + +For twenty-four hours the awful grandeur of these scenes was gloried in, +when Captain Hunter gave the order to draw the anchor and steam away. The +whistles call the passengers back to the steamer, where they were soon +comparing specimens, viewing instantaneous photographs, hiding bedraggled +clothing, casting away tattered mufflers, and telling of hair-breadth +escapes from peril and death. Many a tired head sought an early pillow, +and floated away in dreams of ghoulish icebergs, until the call for +breakfast disclosed to opening eyes that the boat was anchored in the + +BEAUTIFUL HARBOR OF SITKA. + +The steamer's whistle is the signal for a holiday in all Alaska ports, +and Sitka is no exception to the rule. Six o'clock in the morning, but +the sleepy town had awakened to the fact of our arrival, and the +inhabitants were out in force to greet friends or sell their canoes. +There are some 1,500 people living in Sitka, including all races. The +harbor is the most beautiful a fertile brain can imagine. Exquisitely +moulded islands are scattered about in the most enchanting way, all +shapes and sizes, with now and then a little garden patch, and ever +verdant with native woods and grasses and charming rockeries. As far out +as the eye can reach the beautiful isles break the cold sea into +bewitching inlets and lure the mariner to shelter from evil outside waves. + +The village nestles between giant mountains on a lowland curve surrounded +by verdure too dense to be penetrated with the eye, and too far to try to +walk--which is a good excuse for tired feet. The first prominent feature +to meet the eye on land is a large square house, two stories high, +located on a rocky eminence near the shore, and overlooking the entire +town and harbor. Once it was a model dwelling of much pretension, with +its spacious apartments, hard-wood six-inch plank floors, +elaborately-carved decorations, stained-glass windows, and its amusement +and refreshment halls. All betoken the former elegance of the Russian +governor's home, which was supported with such pride and magnificence as +will never be seen there again. The walls are crumbling, the windows +broken, and the old oaken stairways will soon be sinking to earth again, +and its only life will be on the page of history. + +[Illustration: DEVIL'S THUMB, ALASKA. +Reached via the Union Pacific Ry.] + +The mission-school hospital, chapel, and architectural buildings occupied +much of the tourists' time, and some were deeply interested. There are +eighteen missionaries in Sitka, under the Presbyterian jurisdiction, +trying to educate and Christianize the Indians. They are doing a noble +work, but it does seem a hopeless task when one goes among the Indian +homes, sees the filth, smells the vile odors, and studies the native +habits. + +These Indians, like the other tribes, are not poor, but all have more or +less money. + +MANY ARE RICH, + +having more than $20,000 in good hard cash, yet the squalor in which they +live would indicate the direst poverty. + +The stroll to Indian river, from which the town gets its water supply, is +bewitching. The walk is made about six feet through an evergreen forest, +the trees arching overhead, for a distance of two miles, and is close to +the bay, and following the curve in a most picturesque circle. The water +is carried in buckets loaded on carts and wheeled by hand, for horses are +almost unknown in Alaska. There are probably not more than half a dozen +horses and mules in all Alaska--not so much because of the expense of +transportation and board, as lack of roads and the long, dark days and +months of winter, when people do not go out but very little. All the +packing is done in all sections of Alaska by natives carrying the packs +and supplies on their backs. + +Sitka's most interesting object is the old Greek church, located in the +middle of the town, and also in the middle of the street. Its form is +that of a Greek cross, with a copper-covered dome, surmounted by a +chime-bell tower. The inside glitters with gold and rare paintings, gold +embroidered altar cloths and robes; quaint candelabra of solid silver are +suspended in many nooks, and an air of sacred quiet pervades the whole +building. There were no seats, for the Russians remain standing during +the worship. Service is held every Sabbath by a Russian priest in his +native language, and the church is still supported by the Russian +Government. Indeed, Russia does more for the advancement of religion than +does our own Government for Alaska. + +The walk through the Indian ranch was but a repetition of the other +towns, only that they were wealthier and uglier, if possible, than the +other tribes. The Hydahs are very powerfully built, tall, large boned, +and stout. + +Two days were spent in visiting and trafficking with these people. Then +the anchor came up, and soon a silver trail like a huge sea serpent moved +among the green isles, and followed us once more--now on the homeward +sail. + +But one new place of importance was made on the home trip, and that was at + +KILLISNOO. + +When the steamer arrived, the evening after leaving Sitka, the city +policeman met us at the wharf and invited us to visit his hut. Of course, +he was a native, who expected to sell some curios. Over his door was the +following: + + "By the Governor's commission, + And the company's permission, + I am made the grand tyhee + Of this entire illahee. + + "Prominent in song and story, + I've attained the top of glory. + As Saginaw I am known to fame, + Jake is but my common name." + +The time when he attained his fame and glory must have been when he and +his wife were both drunk one night, and he put the handcuffs on his wife +and could not get them off, and she had to go to Sitka to be released. He +appears in at least a dozen different suits while the steamer is in port, +and stands ready to be photographed every time. + +Killisnoo used to be a point where 100,000 barrels of herring oil were +put up annually. The industry is now increasing again. + +NATURAL WEALTH. + +And this reminds me that I am almost neglecting a reference to Alaska's +vast resources in forests, metals, furs, and fish. There are 300,000,000 +of acres densely wooded with spruce, red and yellow cedar, Oregon pine, +hemlock, fir, and other useful varieties of timber. Canoes are made from +single trees, sixty feet long, with eight-feet beams. + +Gold, silver, lead, iron, coal, and copper are encountered in various +localities. Though but little prospected or developed, Alaska is now +yielding gold at the rate of about $2,000,000 per year. There is a +respectable area of island and mainland country well adapted to +stock-raising, and the production of many cereals and vegetables. The +climate of much of the coast country is milder than that of Colorado, and +stock can feed on the pastures the year round. + +But, if Alaska had no mines, forests, or agriculture, its seal and salmon +fisheries would remain alone an immense commercial property. The salmon +are found in almost any part of these northern waters where fresh water +comes in, as they always seek those streams in the spawning season. There +are different varieties that come at stated periods and are caught in +fabulous numbers, sometimes running solid ten feet deep, and often +retarding steamers when a school of them is overtaken. At Idaho Inlet Mr. +Van Gasken brought up a seine for the Ancon tourists containing 350 salmon +for packing. At nearly every port the steamer landed there was either one +or more canning or salt-packing establishments for salmon. Of these, +11,500,000 pounds were marketed last year. + +Besides the salmon there is the halibut, black and white cod, rock cod, +herring, sturgeon, and many other fish, while the waters are whipped by +porpoises and whales in large numbers all along the way. Governor +Swineford estimates the products of the Alaska fisheries last year at +$3,000,000. + +THE SEAL FISHERIES + +are still 1,800 miles west of Sitka. St. Paul and St. George Islands are +the best breeding places of the seals, sea lions, sea otter, and walrus. +These islands are in a continuous fog in summer, and are swept by icy +blasts in winter. There are many interesting facts connected with these +islands and the habits of these phocine kindred, but space is limited. +Suffice that 100,000 seals are killed each year for commercial purposes. +Over 1,000,000 seal pups are born every year, and when they leave for +winter quarters they go in families and not altogether. An average seal +is about six feet long, but some are found eight feet long and weigh from +400 to 800 pounds. The work of catching is all done between the middle of +June and the first of August. The fur company are supposed to pay our +Government $2 for each pelt. These hides are at once shipped to London to +be dyed and made ready to be put on the market in the United States. + +In fact, Alaska seems full to overflowing with offerings to seekers of +fortune or pleasure. Its coast climate is mild, with no extreme heat, +because of the snow-clad peaks which temper the humid air, and never +extreme cold, because of the Japan current that bathes its mossy slopes +and destroys the frigid wave before it does its work. + +Three thousand miles along this inland sea has revealed scenes of +matchless grandeur--majestic mountains (think of snow-crowned St. Elias, +rising 19,500 feet from the ocean's edge), the mightiest glaciers, +world's of inimitable, indescribable splendor. It is a trip of a +lifetime. There is none other like it, and our party unanimously resolves +that the tourist who fails to take it misses very much. + + * * * * * + +_Fifth Tour_.--From Portland to San Francisco by steamer is one of the +most enjoyable trips offered the tourist in point of safety and comfort, +and the service is exceptionally fine. + +The steamers "Oregon," "Columbia," and "State of California" are powerful +iron steamers, built expressly for tourist travel between Portland and San +Francisco. The traveler will find this fifty-hour ocean voyage thoroughly +enjoyable; the sea is uniformly smooth, no greater motion than the long +swell of the Pacific, and the boats are models of neatness and comfort. +It affords a grand opportunity to run down the California coast, always +in sight of land, and derive the invigorating exhilaration of an ocean +trip without any of its discomforts. Among the many points of interest to +be seen are the picturesque Columbia River Bar, the beautiful Ocean Beach +at Clatsop, the towering heights of Cape Hancock, the lonely Mid-Ocean +Lighthouse at Tillamook Rock, the historical Rogue River Reef, Cape +Mendocino, Humboldt Bay, Point Arena, and last, but not least, the +world-renowned Golden Gate of San Francisco. + +[Illustration: MOONLIGHT AT THE OLD BLOCK HOUSE, COLUMBIA RIVER. On the +Union Pacific Ry.] + +The steamships of this company are all new, modern-designed iron vessels, +supplied with steam steering apparatus, electric light and bells, and all +improved nautical appliances. The state-rooms, cabins, salons, etc., are +elaborately furnished throughout, the whole presenting an unrivaled scene +of luxurious ocean life. + +The advantages of this charming ocean trip to the tourist are most +obvious; there is the healthful air of the grand old Pacific Ocean, +complete freedom from dust, heat, cinders, and all the discomforts which +one meets in midsummer railway travel. + + * * * * * + +STANDARD PUBLICATIONS BY THE PASSENGER DEPARTMENT OF THE UNION PACIFIC +RAILWAY. + +The Passenger Department of the Union Pacific Railway will take pleasure +in forwarding to any address, free, of charge, any of the following +publications, provided that with the application is enclosed the amount +of postage specified below for each publication. All of these books and +pamphlets are fresh from the press, many of them handsomely illustrated, +and accurate as regards the region of country described. They will be +found entertaining and instructive, and invaluable as guides to and +authority on the fertile tracts and landscape wonders of the great empire +of the West. There is information for the tourist, pleasure and health +seeker, the investor, the settler, the sportsman, the artist, and the +invalid. + +The Western Resort Book. Send 6 cents for postage. + +This is a finely illustrated book describing the vast Union Pacific +system. Every health resort, mountain retreat, watering place, hunter's +paradise, etc., etc., is depicted. This book gives a full and complete +detail of all tours over the line, starting from Sioux City, Council +Bluffs, Omaha, St. Joseph, Leavenworth, or Kansas City, and contains a +complete itinerary of the journey from either of these points to the +Pacific Coast. + +Sights and Scenes. Send 2 cents postage for each pamphlet. + +There are five pamphlets in this set, pocket folder size, illustrated, +and are descriptive of tours to particular points. The set comprises +"Sights and Scenes in Colorado;" Utah; Idaho and Montana; California; +Oregon, Washington, and Alaska. Each pamphlet, deals minutely with every +resort of pleasure or health within its assigned limit, and will be found +bright and interesting reading for tourists. + +Facts and Figures. Send 2 cents postage for each pamphlet. + +This is a set of three pamphlets, containing facts and figures relative +to Kansas, Nebraska, and Colorado respectively. They are more +particularly meant for intending settlers in these fertile States and +will be found accurate in every particular; there is a description of all +important towns. + +Vest Pocket Memorandum Book. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A handy, neatly gotten-up little memorandum book, very useful for the +farmer, business man, traveler, and tourist. + +Calendar, 1890. Send 6 cents for postage. + +An elegant Calendar for the year 1890, suitable for the office and +counting room. + +Comprehensive Pamphlets. Send 6 cents postage for each pamphlet. + +A set of pamphlets on Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, Idaho, Oregon, +and Washington. These books treat, of the resources, climate, acreage, +minerals, grasses, soil, and products of these various empires on an +extended scale, entering very fully upon an exhaustive treatise of the +capabilities and promise of the places described. They have been very +carefully compiled, and the information collated from Official Reports, +actual settlers, and residents of the different States and Territories. + +Theatrical Diary. Send 10 cents for postage. + +This is a Theatrical Diary for 1890-91, bound in Turkey Morocco, gilt +tops, and contains a, list of 255 theatres and opera houses reached by +the Union Pacific system, seating capacity, size of stage, terms, +newspapers in each town, etc., etc. This Diary is intended only for the +theatrical profession. + +Commercial Salesman's Expense Book. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A neat vest pocket memorandum book for 1890--dates, cash accounts, etc., +etc. + +Outdoor Sports and Pastimes. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A carefully compiled pamphlet of some thirty pages, giving the complete +rules of this year, for Lawn Tennis, Base Ball, Croquet, Racquet, +Cricket, Quoits, La Crosse, Polo, Curling, Foot Ball, etc., etc. There +are also diagrams of a Lawn Tennis Court and Base Ball diamond. This +pamphlet will be found especially valuable to lovers of these games. + +Map of the United States. Send 25 cents for postage. + +A large wall map of the United States, complete in every particular, and +compiled from the latest surveys; just published; size, 46 x 66 inches; +railways, counties, roads, etc., etc. + +Stream, Sound and Sea. Send 2 cents for postage. + +A neat, illustrated pamphlet descriptive of a trip from The Dalles of the +Columbia to Portland, Ore., Astoria, Clatsop Beach; through the strait of +Juan de Fuca and the waters of the Puget Sound, and up the coast to +Alaska. A handsome pamphlet containing valuable information for the +tourist. + +Wonderful Story. Send 2 cents for postage. + +The romance of railway building. The wonderful story of the early surveys +and the building of the Union Pacific. A paper by General G.M. Dodge, read +before the Society of the Army of the Tennessee, September, 1888. General +Sherman pronounces this document fascinatingly interesting and, of great +historical value, and vouches for its accuracy. + +Gun Club Rules and Revised Game Laws. Send 2 cents for postage. + +This valuable publication is a digest of the laws relating to game in all +the Western States and Territories. It also contains the various gun club +rules, together with a guide to all Western localities where game of +whatsoever description may be found. Every sportsman should have one. + +"The Oldest Inhabitant." Send 10 cents for postage. + +This is a buffalo head in Sepia, a very artistic study from life. It is +characterized by strong drawing and wonderful fidelity. A very handsome +acquisition for parlor or library. + +Crofutt's Overland Guide, No. 1. Send $1.00. + +This book has just been issued. It graphically describes every point, +giving its history, population, business resources, etc., etc., on the +line of the Union Pacific Hallway, between the Missouri River and the +Pacific Coast, and the tourist should not start West without a copy in +his possession. It furnishes in one volume a complete guide to the +country traversed by the Union Pacific system, and can not fail to be of +great assistance to the tourist in selecting his route, and obtaining +complete information about the points to be visited. + +A Glimpse of Great Salt Lake. Send 4 cents for postage. + +This is a charming description of a yachting cruise on the mysterious +Inland sea, beautifully illustrated with original sketches by the +well-known artist, Mr. Alfred Lambourne, of Salt Lake City. This +startling phenomena of sea and cloud and light and color are finely +portrayed. This book touches a new region, a voyage on Great Salt Lake +never before having been described and pictured. + +General Folder. No postage required. + +A carefully revised General Folder is issued regularly every month. This +publication gives condensed through time tables; through car service; a +first-class map of the United States, west of Chicago and St. Louis; +important baggage and ticket regulations of the Union Pacific Railway, +thus making a valuable compendium for the traveler and for ticket agent +in selling through tickets over the Union Pacific Railway. + +The Pathfinder. No postage required. + +A book of some fifty pages devoted to local time cards; containing a +complete list of stations with the altitude of each; also connections +with western stage lines and ocean steamships; through car service; +baggage and Pullman Sleeping Car rates and the principal ticket +regulations, which will prove of great value as a ready reference for +ticket agents to give passengers information about the local branches of +the Union Pacific Railway. + +Alaska Folder. No postage required. + +This Folder contains a brief outline of the trip to Alaska, and also a +correct map of the Northwest Pacific Coast, from Portland to Sitka, +Alaska, showing the route of vessels to and from this new and almost +unknown country. + +[Illustration: Oregon, Washington and Alaska. Sights and Scenes for the +Tourist.] + +[Illustration: Tourist Map of Union Pacific and Connecting Lines.] + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA; +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST.*** + + +******* This file should be named 10751.txt or 10751.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/7/5/10751 + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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