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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/10439-0.txt b/10439-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..61836fe --- /dev/null +++ b/10439-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1944 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10439 *** + +FROM YAUCO TO LAS MARIAS + +A Recent Campaign in Puerto Rico by the Independent Regular Brigade +under the command of BRIG. GENERAL SCHWAN + +by + +KARL STEPHEN HERRMAN + + + + + + +[Illustration: Theodore Schwan, Brigadier-General U.S. Volunteers.] + + + + +TO ROBERT SMITH COBB + +MY BROTHER LORD IN CERTAIN ISLES OF FRIENDSHIP AND OWNER OF PRECIOUS CARGO +IN MY SHIP OF DREAMS + + + +CONTENTS + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +CHAPTER I + +The Independent Regular Brigade + +Place of meeting--Forces comprised by the command--Why we were not like the +Volunteers--Characteristics of the professional soldier--Sketches of the +more important officers--What we were ordered to do. + + +CHAPTER II + +The First Day's March + +Disposition of our column--The road to Sabana Grande--The infantrymen's +burden--Wayside hospitality--Hard tack and repartee--Into camp and under +blankets--Arrival of Macomb's troop--A smoke-talk. + + +CHAPTER III + +The People of Puerto Rico + +Their attitude toward the invading Americans--The proclamation of General +Miles--Justice and the private soldier--Depravity of the native masses--Men +and women of the better class--Local attributes of life--A hint to the +weary. + + +CHAPTER IV + +The Second Day Begins + +We march to San German--Removal of the sick from the ambulances--An +approaching Spanish force--Our scouts and their leader--Concerning Señor +Fijardo--Visible effects of imminent battle--Something about the town of +San German. + + +CHAPTER V + +The Engagement at Hormigueros + +Topography of the battlefield--Macomb's cavalry fired into by Spanish +skirmishers--Our advance-guard comes into contact with the foe--General +Schwan reaches the firing line--The main body arrives and joins in +the fray--Subsequent manoeuvres of our column--The Spanish retreat--A +computation of losses. + + +CHAPTER VI + +The Second Day Ends + +A personal résumé of the fight--Lack of melodramatic accompaniments--A lost +chance of glory--Another neglected opportunity--A glimpse of the flag--Once +more into camp. + + +CHAPTER VII + +The Occupation of Mayaguez + +We enter the city in triumph--An enthusiastic reception--A pretty girl +and the star-spangled banner--Other memorable incidents--Our rags and +tatters--A description of Mayaguez--We pitch our tents in a swamp--The +First Kentucky Volunteers. + + +CHAPTER VIII + +The Engagement at Las Marias + +Difficulties encountered in locating the retreating enemy--Final +determination upon pursuit--Lieutenant-Colonel Burke sets forth--Discovery +of Spanish troops near Las Marias--A one-sided encounter--Unwelcome +notification of truce--The rest of the brigade comes up--Feeding the +prisoners--Our disappointment. + + +CHAPTER IX + +The Territory Won + +General Schwan returns to Mayaguez--Business and pleasure--A custom +we abolished--Extent of the district captured by our brigade +--Aguadilla--Facilities for transportation--Labor and the +laborer--The cost of living--Rents and real estate--Skilled workmen--A word +about investments. + + +CHAPTER X + +The End of the Campaign + +Arrival of the mail-steamer--The soldier-boy and his letters--The greater +part of the brigade is quartered in Mayaguez--Agriculture in Puerto +Rico--Material result of our campaign--A farewell order--General Schwan +departs for the United States. + + +A Brief Sketch of the Life of Brigadier-General Schwan + + +APPENDIX + + +THE ILLUSTRATIONS + +Theodore Schwan, Brigadier-General U.S. Volunteers +Statue of Columbus, Mayaguez +American Cavalry entering Mayaguez on the 11th of August +The Public Fountain in Aguadilla, a Favorite Rendezvous + for Runaway Lovers +Plaza Principal, Mayaguez. Town Hall in Background +Spanish Prisoners who were brought from Las Marias to Mayaguez +Plaza Principal, Mayaguez. A Public Celebration of the New Flag's Advent, + under the Auspices of the Local School-teachers and their Pupils +The Plaza of San German on Market-day +Lower Quarter of Mayaguez +A Mid-section of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez +Positions occupied by Spanish Soldiers in the Skirmish at Hormigueros +Railroad from Mayaguez to Aguadilla +The Theatre, Mayaguez +Custom-house at Mayaguez occupied by General Schwan as Brigade + Headquarters +Road from Mayaguez to Añasco +Lower End of the Calle de Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez +Guenar Bridge, Mayaguez +Upper End of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez +The Town of Sabana Grande +Witch River, near Cabo Rojo +American Camp at Mayaguez +Plaza Mercado, Mayaguez +Mouth of the Mayaguez River +A Bit of Yauco +Wooden Dock at Mayaguez. In the Offing can be seen the German Man-of-war + "Geier" +"Eleventh of August" Street +The Officers of the Alphonso XIII Regiment of Cazadores, taken a few days + before the Fight with the American Troops at Hormigueros +The Military Hospital, Mayaguez +Part of the Village of Maricao +Infantry Barracks, Mayaguez +The Rosario River, near Hormigueros +A Street in San German +Tobacco Plantation (cutting leaves), Mayaguez +The Plaza Principal in Mayaguez looking toward the Church +A Ruined Church along our Line of March +A Puerto Rican Laundry +Watering the Artillery Horses at Yauco +A Native Bull-team +On the Road to Lares +The Best Outfit in our Wagon Train +"Promenade of the Fleas" in Yauco +When only One Man gets a Letter +The "Weary Travellers' Spring," near Añasco +A Crude Sugar Mill near Las Marias +A very Popular Spot +Two Knights and a Pawn + + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +I have ventured to set down in this place the following bald and brief +items of our recent history, not because I doubt an already existing common +knowledge of their substance, but simply because they serve to illuminate +and give finish to the succeeding narrative. + +Major-General Miles sailed from Guantanamo, Cuba, on the 21st of July, +1898; and landed at Guanica, Puerto Rico, on the 25th of the same month. +The troops sailing with him numbered 3,554 officers and men, mainly +composed of volunteers from Massachusetts, Illinois, and the District +of Columbia, with a complement of regulars in five batteries of light +artillery, thirty-four privates from the battalion of engineers, and +detachments of recruits, signal, and hospital corps. + +On August 1st he was re-enforced by General Schwan's brigade of the Fourth +Army Corps and part of General Wilson's division of the First Corps, +raising his numerical strength to 9,641 officers and men. The Spanish +forces in Puerto Rico at that time numbered some 18,000, about evenly +divided between regulars and volunteers, and scattered advantageously over +3,700 square miles of territory. By the end of August the American strength +had nearly doubled. + +In the brief campaign that followed, a large part of the island was +captured by the United States forces, and the positions of all the Spanish +garrisons, except that at San Juan, were made untenable. There were +altogether six engagements,--at Guanica Road, Guayamo (2), Coamo, +Hormigueros, Aibonito, and Las Marias,--with a total loss to the Spaniards +of about 450 killed and wounded, while the American casualties of the same +nature amounted to 43. + +General Miles, in his scheme of operations, intended that three columns +of our troops--each composed of infantry, cavalry, artillery, and their +adjuncts--should march through the eastern, western, and central parts of +the island, respectively, diverging at Ponce and coalescing before San +Juan. The entire success of this plan was prevented only by the arrival of +the order to suspend hostilities, on the 13th of August. + +The column marching east--known as the First Division, First Army +Corps--was commanded by Major-General James H. Wilson, and took part in +three engagements. The column sent through the interior--known as the +Provisional Division--was commanded by Brigadier-General Guy V. Henry, and +met no opposition of moment. + +The third column, called the Independent Regular Brigade, and directed +to proceed through the western section of the island, was commanded by +Brigadier-General Theodore Schwan, and had two engagements with the +Alphonso XIII Regiment of Cazadores. + +It is the story of General Schwan's campaign that I am about to relate. + + + + + +CHAPTER I + +The Independent Regular Brigade + +_Place of meeting_--_Forces comprised by the command_--_Why we were +not like the Volunteers_--_Characteristics of the professional +soldier_--_Sketches of the more important officers_--_What we were ordered +to do_. + + +Yauco, the place selected by General Miles as a rendezvous for the troops +of the Independent Regular Brigade, is a town of about 15,000 inhabitants, +and some six miles distant from Guanica. It is connected both by rail and +wagon-road with Ponce, the largest city on the island, and is noted for its +Spanish proclivities, fine climate, excellent running water, and setting of +mountains--luxuriantly green throughout the year. + +Here were assembled on the evening of Aug. 8, 1898, all the forces assigned +to General Schwan, with the exception of Troop "A," Fifth Cavalry, which +did not appear until some thirty hours later. The command was composed of +the Eleventh Infantry, Light Battery "D" of the Fifth Artillery, Light +Battery "C" of the Third Artillery, and the troop of cavalry already +mentioned,--all regulars, and as resolute and picturesque a set of men as +ever wore the uniform of war. + + * * * * * + +Because we had no Volunteers with us, we were not granted even one little +word-spattering newspaper scribe, and so relinquished at the outset any +fugitive hopes of glory that otherwise might have been entertained. We were +out for business,--hard marching, hard living, hard fighting,--and the +opening vista was fringed with gore. We were none of us the darlings of any +particular State, nor the precious offspring of a peripatetic statesman +with a practised pull. We were at no time decimated by disease through +ignorant or insubordinate disregard of the primary principles of hygiene. +We didn't write long wailing letters home because we were obliged to sleep +on the damp ground, and had neither hot rolls, chocolate, nor marmalade for +breakfast. We were ragged, hungry, tough, and faithful. In other words, we +were regular army men, and, most distinctly, _not_ Volunteers. + +[Illustration: Statue of Columbus, Mayaguez.] + +There is a personality peculiar to the professional soldier, even though +he be but a half-fledged recruit, that defies analysis and baffles +description. He is of course built from the same clay as his brother of the +Volunteers; but the latter is a tin god, and the former is a devil. Yet the +difference does not spring from anything more fundamental than environment, +and therein lies the solace of the other fellow. Putting aside all odious +comparisons and limiting myself to a view of the regular army man as I know +him, I can simply say that in the eight months during which I underwent +in his company hard knocks and privations without number I could not have +found a more truly satisfactory comrade and friend. He doesn't, on the +average, know much about books; nor did he ever hear of the Etruscan +Inscriptions or the Pyramidal Policy of the Ancient Egyptians. He takes a +grim delight in smashing the English language into microscopic atoms at a +single blow. He is more fond of women, horses, and prize-fighting than is +good for him. He will steal when he is hungry, lie to save his skin, curse +most terribly on trifling provocation, and spend, to his last sou markee, +his hard-won wage on adulterated drink. + + "He's a devil an' a ostrich + an' a orphan-child in one." + +But he will stand his ground in action while there is ground to stand on; +he will throw his life away at a moment's notice for the flag, or a chosen +comrade, or a worthless girl; he will march and starve and thirst world +without end if he has a leader who holds his confidence; and he is, on the +whole, a rather fine specimen of the true American--being usually Irish or +German. + +[Illustration: American Cavalry entering Mayaguez on the 11th of +August.] + +Our brigade commander, General Theodore Schwan--silent, upright, +tall, and spare--was regarded with affection and respect by every one who +came into personal contact with him, officer and man alike. He was shrewd, +clever, and distinguished, but never too busy or elevated to listen to the +humblest soldier from the ranks, and from first to last a gentleman. Of his +staff it is the highest praise to say that they were in every way worthy of +their chief. Bluff Captain Davison, gruff Captain Hutcheson, studious Major +Root, saturnine Major Egan, wounded Lieutenant Byron, patient Lieutenant +Poore, dashing Captain Elkins, and courteous Lieutenant Summerlin, I salute +you all in the most military manner of the soldier dismounted! You were my +friends in need, you lent me money, you gave me fatherly counsel and passes +of freedom to the shimmering tropic dawn--and I shall not forget. + +At the head of the Eleventh Infantry was Colonel I.D. DeRussy, who, with +his ministerial drawl and dry wit, was a sharp contrast to his blunt, +impetuous, and fiery second in command, Lieutenant-Colonel Burke. But, so +far as I am aware, perpetual harmony reigned between them; and both were +beloved by their men. The battalion of artillery was commanded by Captain +Frank Thorp of Light Battery "D," my own outfit. He was best known in the +ranks as "Side-wheeler," from a peculiarity of gait, and, though well on +in years, was at all times gallant, courageous, and capable. A stiff +disciplinarian, he kept his guardhouse well filled from week to week; but +he was as quick to reward as punish, when warranted by circumstances. It +is worthy of note that although he took each day enough medicine to lay an +ordinary man on his back, or in an early grave, yet he was well and fit +from start to finish. + +Captain Macomb of the Fifth Cavalry is not an easy man to describe in cold +ink. Handsome, stalwart, and grave; black-haired, black-eyed, a scarf of +yellow knotted at his throat,--he was Custer without the vanity or Lancelot +devoid a Guinevere. + +[Illustration: The Public Fountain in Aguadilla, a Favorite Rendezvous for +Runaway Lovers.] + +When he clattered through the many quaint little towns abutting on our line +of march, he was followed by a billow of sighs from behind the half-closed +lattices, though I dare say he knew nothing about it; for indeed he was +no heart-breaker, but a true soldier. I recommend him to either Rudyard +Kipling or Richard Harding Davis. + +Said General Miles, in a letter of instruction to General Schwan under date +of August 6, 1898:-- + +"You will drive out or capture all Spanish troops in the western portion +of Puerto Rico. You will take all necessary precautions and exercise great +care against being surprised or ambushed by the enemy, and will make the +movement as rapidly as possible, at the same time exercising your best +judgment in the care of your command, to accomplish the object of your +expedition." + +And this programme we were now ready to carry out. + + + +CHAPTER II + +The First Day's March + +_Disposition of our column_--_The road to Sabana Grande_--_The +infantrymen's burden_--_Wayside hospitality_--_Hard tack and +repartee_--_Into camp and under blankets_--_Arrival of Macomb's troop_--_A +smoke-talk._ + +[Illustration: Plaza Principal, Mayaguez. Town Hall in background.] + + +The disposition and arrangement of our forces on the first day's march can +best be shown by the following document:-- + +HEADQUARTERS INDEPENDENT BRIGADE (REGULARS), CAMP AT YAUCO, PUERTO RICO, +Aug. 8, 1898. + +GENERAL ORDERS No. 13. + +This command will move out on the road to Sabana Grande at ten o'clock +tomorrow morning. It will observe the following rules and order of march:-- + +1. Macomb's troop of cavalry will act as a screen, and will march about two +miles in advance of the point of the advance-guard. The extent of the front +to be covered by, and the disposition of the cavalry, will depend upon +the nature of the country, and will be left to the judgment of the troop +commander. He will communicate freely by means of orderlies with the +commander of the advance-guard, who will at once transmit all messages to +the commanding general. Three mounted orderlies to be furnished by the +troop, will march with the advance-guard. + +2. Two companies of infantry, one platoon of artillery, and two Gatling +guns will constitute the advance-guard. A pioneer detachment, consisting of +one non-commissioned officer and eight men, to be carefully selected from +the advance-guard, will march with the reserve, and will be under the +direction of the engineer officer of the brigade. The requisite tools +will be carried on a cart. Upon arriving in camp, the advance-guard will +immediately establish the outpost. + +3. The main body will consist of nine companies of infantry, one battery +and two platoons of artillery, and two Gatling guns. + +4. The trains following the main body will be under the direction of the +brigade quartermaster, and their order of march will be:-- + + Hospital train. + Ammunition column. + Supply and baggage wagons. + +The rear-guard will be composed of one company of infantry. A detachment +from it will protect exposed flanks of the train. If horses can be procured +for them, the commanders of the advance and rear guards will be mounted. + +The above disposition for each day's march will be conformed to, unless +otherwise ordered. + +By command of Brigadier-General Schwan. + +GROTE HUTCHESON, _Captain and Assistant Adjutant-General._ + +[Illustration: Spanish Prisoners who were brought from Las Marias to +Mayaguez.] + +As Captain Macomb's cavalry had not arrived at the hour appointed for our +start, we set off without him. And in fact there was little need of his +services on that day, our march being through a section of the island +already cleared of Spanish troops, and exceedingly slow and wearisome, +besides. + +The route from Yauco to Sabana Grande lies for some two miles along the +level and creditable road leading to Guanica, suddenly going off at right +angles just beyond a picturesque sugar-mill into as uneven, crooked, and +hilly a highway as can well be imagined. + +I cannot tell you in adequate language just how the tropical sun punishes +the unacclimated Northerner, especially if he be a foot-soldier tramping +along in a blinding dust, parched of throat, empty of belly, and loaded +down with a pack that would make a quartermaster's mule to fake the +glanders. If you have been there, it needs no words of mine to galvanize +your memory; and, if you have not, you cannot understand. This matter of +the soldier's pack and what to do with it became a subject of serious +consideration during the recent war, in both Cuba and Puerto Rico. On the +march, in the charge or pursuit or retreat, it is a senseless, clogging, +spirit-shackling incubus, a rank absurdity, and an utter impossibility. As +a result, after three days of active campaign the infantryman is seen gayly +stalking along with no burden save his rifle, ammunition-belt, and a wisp +of gray blanket, which seems to me to be a fatuous and footless condition +of affairs that might well be quickly remedied for the benefit of all +concerned. + +[Illustration: Plaza Principal, Mayaguez. A Public Celebration of the New +Flag's Advent, under the Auspices of the Local School-teachers and their +Pupils.] + +As we passed the occasional little hacienda, set in its grove of cocoanut +palms or orange-trees, dusky and wrinkled women came forth from the doors, +bearing upon their heads huge jars, from which we filled our ever-parched +canteens with cool, sweet water. They also brought us mangoes and other +native fruits, and queer cigars of most abominable flavor. Because we were +forbidden to eat of the fruit, we stuffed ourselves with it, and looked for +more. From time to time a weary or sick soldier would lay himself down by +the roadside, to be picked up later on by an ambulance; but, as the day +wore on, the intervals of rest grew longer and more frequent. We had but +one opportunity to water the sweating horses of the artillery, and then it +was a painful matter of buckets. We munched hard-tack for our noonday meal, +and made merry over it, talking of the day when we should go home and feast +on beans and beefsteak and countless other things of which the heathen +wot not. We were intensely voluble or silent by turns, and invented new +nicknames for each other, which were so apt, spite of being touched with +bitterness, that they stuck forevermore. And never, so far as I can +remember, did any one mention the "Maine" or Cuba Libre. + +At last, shortly after sunset, we descended a long, steep hillside, and +went into camp in the valley of the Rio Grande, just without the gates of a +small town, uninteresting in character, and Sabana Grande by name. We had +marched only twelve miles, but were hungry, limp, and ugly. So, having +crammed down a hasty supper of nothing in particular, we made short shift +of absent tents, and, pulling our blankets to our chins, lay face upward +to the stars that made us homesick, and slept the sleep of tired little +children. + +I was wakened in the middle of the night by a distant jangle of sabres and +rattle of hooves. Seeing our officer of the day, Lieutenant R.E. Callan, +standing not far away and looming gigantic against the sky, I asked him the +meaning of the noise; and he replied that it was Captain Macomb's troop +of cavalry just coming in. I lit my pipe and talked for a while with the +lieutenant of other things than war--Maude Adams and John Drew, football, +ambition, and books--till finally he went away to make his rounds. My pipe +went out, and I dreamed of stranger happenings than my longest thoughts +could fashion in the glare of day. And, when I woke again, reveille was +soaring from post to post. + +[Illustration: The Plaza of San German on Market-day.] + + + +CHAPTER III + +The People of Puerto Rico + +_Their attitude toward the invading Americans_--_The proclamation of +General Miles_--_justice and the private soldier_--_Depravity of the +native masses_--_Men and women of the better class_--_Local attributes of +life_--_A hint to the weary._ + + +Before proceeding further with the story of our advance, it may interest +you to know what manner of people we found the Puerto Ricans to be, and how +they behaved toward us who came to them as dogs of war. + +When we were first on the island, there is no doubt that the mass of the +population regarded us with acute distrust, if not with dislike and fear. +But the prompt measures taken by General Miles to disabuse their minds of +any preconceived ideas of ensuing rape, robbery, or desecration, did +much to soothe the more ignorant and childish of the natives, while the +intelligent and educated class needed no further assurance than that +contained in the proclamation issued by the commanding general from Ponce +on the 28th of July, which was as follows:-- + +TO THE INHABITANTS OF PUERTO RICO: + +In the prosecution of the war against the kingdom of Spain by the people +of the United States, in the cause of liberty, justice, and humanity, its +military forces have come to occupy the island of Puerto Rico. They come +bearing the banner of freedom, inspired by a noble purpose to seek the +enemies of our country and yours, and to destroy or capture all who are in +armed resistance. They bring you the fostering arm of a free people, whose +greatest power is in its justice and humanity to all those living within +its fold. Hence the first effect of this occupation will be the immediate +release from your former relations, and it is hoped a cheerful acceptance +of the government of the United States. The chief object of the American +military forces will be to overthrow the armed authority of Spain, and to +give the people of your beautiful island the largest measure of liberty +consistent with this occupation. We have not come to make war upon the +people of a country that for centuries has been oppressed, but, on the +contrary, to bring you protection, not only to yourselves, but to your +property; to promote your prosperity, and bestow upon you the immunities +and blessings of the liberal institutions of our government. It is not our +purpose to interfere with any existing laws and customs that are wholesome +and beneficial to your people so long as they conform to the rules of +military administration of order and justice. This is not a war of +devastation, but one to give all within the control of its military and +naval forces the advantages and blessings of enlightened civilization. + +NELSON A. MILES, + +_Major-General, Commanding United States Army_. + +[Illustration: Lower Quarter of Mayaguez.] + +The promises set forth in this document were kept to the letter. Indeed, +Justice sat up so straight for the people of Puerto Rico that she often +toppled over backward and crushed the American soldier. To steal anything, +from a kiss to a cow, was almost a capital offence; while houses and +churches might have been lined with gold and jasper, or infected with the +small-pox, so stringently were we kept out of them--at least during the +hostile period. + +This was all a mighty good thing for somebody, no doubt, but it detracted +in large chunks from the glamour of war for the soldier-boy; and I fear +that the majority of us felt hurt, if not sorely cheated. Nor is it at +all certain that the average inhabitant of Puerto Rico is worth coddling, +protection, prosperity, "and the immunities and blessings" accorded him by +his new rulers. A thick, stout cudgel or a bright, sharp axe will be more +effective than honeyed words in helping him cheerfully to assimilate new +ideas; though no one will believe it here at home until the hurrah is all +over and some of the truth gets into general circulation. + +[Illustration: A Mid-section of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez.] + +About one-sixth of the population in this island--the educated class, and +chiefly of pure Spanish blood--can be set down as valuable acquisitions to +our citizenship and the peer, if not the superior, of most Americans in +chivalry, domesticity, fidelity, and culture. Of the rest, perhaps one-half +can be moulded by a firm hand into something approaching decency; but the +remainder are going to give us a great deal of trouble. They are ignorant, +filthy, untruthful, lazy, treacherous, murderous, brutal, and black Spain +has kept her hand at their throats for many weary years, and the only thing +that has saved them from being throttled is the powerful influence in +their discipline effected by the Roman Catholic Church. When our zealous +missionaries have succeeded in leading them into the confines of other +creeds, we shall have all the excitement we want in Puerto Rico, and the +part of our army stationed there will have no lack of exercise. + +Despite a common belief to the contrary, the color-line is drawn as +rigidly in Puerto Rico as it is in Kentucky. The people having nothing but +Castilian blood in their veins are as proud as Virtue; and, while politics +and business see a certain mingling of skin-colors, the mixture ceases to +exist across the threshold of home. No true Spaniard would permit himself +to sing of his "coal-black lady" or his "cute little yallar gal"; and, if +he did, he would be ostracized. + +The women are all very pretty or extremely ugly, and never simply plain. +The girls of the better class are brought up from babyhood under a constant +surveillance that knows no laxity until after marriage, and does not +altogether cease even then. The growing bud is taught to play the piano or +guitar, to embroider, to sing a little, to dance a little less, to speak +and read French, to powder her face with art, and to walk like a very +queen. She is usually married before she is seventeen, especially if her +father has money; and, until the day of her death, she never sees a modern +newspaper, never goes slumming, and never soils her gentle hands with work +of any degree. She is apt to love her husband devotedly, and does not think +her career fitly rounded until she is a mother. + +[Illustration: Positions occupied by Spanish Soldiers in the Skirmish at +Hormigueros.] + +The men of the same social footing are not so interesting--to me; but, +nevertheless, they possess many characteristics which claim attention and +deserve applause. They are never drunkards or wife-beaters; they don't drag +their business to the dinner-table and bed; they are not given to profane +speech; and they show greater interest in a sonnet than in the price of +pork. + +Life for both sexes and all grades in Puerto Rico is a rose, a kiss, and +a cigarette; song, laughter, and mañana. The island is, unequivocally, a +Paradise; and, if I remember rightly, dwellers in Paradise are not expected +to labor. These people amply fulfill the expectation. + +If you are sick of the worry and fret and jar of contemporaneous life here +at home, if you care for wide, sweet blue sky, eternal flowers, crystal +fountains, and gypsy music, then there is no better place for you to go +than to Puerto Rico. Take a bicycle and ride from Ponce around the island +or straight across to San Juan. You will find the roads, when there are +roads, superlatively excellent--particularly, if you do not mind an +occasional hill or sharp and sudden shower of rain. The larger cities all +have comfortable hotels; and, if you can afford to stay a month in Ponce, +Mayaguez, and San Juan, you will bring back fragrant memories that will +last you many years, or else you will send for your household gods and not +come back at all. And, if you don't ride a bicycle, you will be able to get +just as much pleasure from the toy railroad or wee horses when you travel +about from place to place, while the expense in either case will be +marvellously small. + +[Illustration: Railroad from Mayaguez to Aguadilla.] + + + +CHAPTER IV + +The Second Day Begins + +_We march to San German_--_Removal of the sick from the ambulances_--_An +approaching Spanish force_--_Our scouts and their leader_--_Concerning +Señor Fijardo_--_Visible effects of imminent battle_--_Something about the +town of San German_. + + +At eight o'clock in the morning on the 10th of August General Schwan's +brigade broke camp at Sabana Grande, and moved out on the road to San +German. The order of march differed from that of the day before only in the +presence of the troop of cavalry; and, the command being well rested, such +progress was made that the advance-guard reached the western side of San +German by noon--a good ten miles. The main body halted at the same hour +just outside the eastern entrance to the town, preparing a makeshift meal; +and at this point the sick, both on their own account and to make room in +the already crowded ambulances, were transferred to a private hospital. + +Before quitting San German, word was brought to the commanding general +that the entire Mayaguez garrison--some 1,362 men, chiefly regulars--was +marching in our direction, and would contest our advance. This information, +which proved to be correct, was at once communicated to the cavalry and +advance-guard, with orders to proceed with the greatest care, and to reduce +somewhat the distances ordinarily separating the different parts of the +column. + +Our source of information at this and other important times was a small +body of native scouts, numbering from 6 to 11 men and commanded by Lugo +Vina, a swarthy, wizened little Puerto Rican, who looked like General Gomez +and was taciturn as an Indian. He was considered by General Schwan to be +a man of great character and force. These scouts were well mounted, and +accompanied the brigade during its entire march, rendering most important +and efficient service. Three of them were arrested as spies by Spanish +officials between Las Marias and Mayaguez, and narrowly escaped being shot. +Eventually, they suffered nothing worse than imprisonment for several +months at San Juan; and, when the Evacuation Commission arranged for their +release, the United States reimbursed them to the full extent of their +wages for the period of their captivity. + +[Illustration: The Theatre, Mayaguez.] + +For the position of "alcade" or Mayor of the city of Mayaguez General +Schwan had a most difficult task. + +Someone thoroughly acquainted with the country and its people was wanted +and the selection fell to a prosperous planter residing within the +jurisdiction of Mayaguez--who had been--while not properly speaking, a +scout--was yet of considerable service to General Schwan as an interpreter +and guide up to the taking of Mayaguez. And because he had in addition been +exceedingly useful to our government before the actual breaking out of the +war, it was the wish of General Miles to confer upon him some suitable +reward immediately hostilities were suspended. General Schwan was prepared +to make this appointment, but so strong an opposition to the plan sprang +spontaneously from the inhabitants of the municipality most interested that +the appointment was held up. + +After a careful consideration of all the remonstrances and the strenuous +denial by the candidate of all and every allegation and his desire that +the promised honor be conferred upon him at once and without delay, it was +decided by General Schwan that in the face of so much opposition there was +nothing to do but to leave the residents of Mayaguez to decide the question +for themselves which they did in a most emphatic manner by refusing to +endorse the planter as a possibility, and presenting the name of Señor +Santiago Palmer as an acceptable party. + +This latter gentleman subsequently received the appointment, which was +satisfactory to all concerned. + + * * * * * + +The news that we were about to meet the Spanish forces face to face spread +rapidly among the men in the ranks, and aroused more enthusiasm than +terrapin and champagne could have done. Nobody any longer complained of the +heat; and, when it began to shower by fits and starts, nobody complained of +that, either. There were no more stragglers casting a windward eye to an +empty ambulance, nor growls because we pressed forward so rapidly. + +[Illustration: Custom-house at Mayaguez occupied by General Schwan as +Brigade Headquarters.] + +On that particular afternoon I was with the advance-guard; and, when we had +learned what we might expect before sunset, I studied the men about me with +a lively curiosity as to what effect the probability of immediate action +would have upon their visible emotions. + +Most of them, in our platoon of artillery at least, were boys, or little +more than boys, and almost without exception recruits of less than six +months' standing. It might have been expected that some degree of +gravity would have crept over them in the nearness of such unpleasant +possibilities; but never were they more gay and care-free, to all +appearance. Old jests already worn to shreds before we left the transport +at Guanica were once more revived, and capered with new life. Good-natured +irony flew from lip to lip in fantastic speculation as to probable +promotions in case all the officers should be killed at the first go-off. +The horses were told, individually and with great tenderness, just what +every man expected of them in the approaching crisis. And no comrade gave +another any instructions regarding mother or the girl at home, if he were +to bite the dust. For my own part, I found my mind so busy in going over +the cadences of a waltz I had danced with Somebody months before that I +could not bring myself to consider anything else but the beauty of its +refrain--or was it Her eyes?--try as I might. And, besides, it is not +profitable to shake hands with the devil until you are within reach of his +claw. + +[Illustration: Road from Mayaguez to Añasco.] + +The wagon-road leading from San German, over which we were now marching, +follows the valley of the Rio Grande, whose flats, varying in width from a +few hundred to a thousand yards, extend on each side to a chain of hills. +On either hand, in the immediate distance, are fields of sugar-cane, +bounded wherever they touch the road by wire fences. + +San German, the city through which we had just passed, is a place of nearly +10,000 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction numbering 30,600. It has three +very fine markets, a charity hospital, a seminary, good school buildings, +theatre, and casino. There is a railroad in construction, a post-office and +telegraph station. It is situated on a long, uneven hill, at the foot of +which lies the beautiful valley of the Juanjibos and Boqueròn Rivers, +which is made a veritable garden of enchantment by the orange, lemon, +and tamarind trees, together with various other plants, growing there in +abundance. The town was founded in 1511 by Captain Miguel Toro, and has +borne the title of city since 1877. The principal streets are called Luna +and Comercio. Its chief plaza is of notable size, its church is quite +regular in architecture, though of old construction, and the barracks of +the infantry and civil guard merit mention. Finally, it may be said that +its citizens have held a distinguished record for bravery and patriotism +ever since their decisive victory over the English forces in 1743. + +[Illustration: Lower End of the Calle de Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez.] + + + +CHAPTER V + +The Engagement at Hormigueros + +_Topography of the battlefield_--_Macomb's cavalry fired into by Spanish +skirmishers_--_Our advance-guard comes into contact with the foe_--_General +Schwan reaches the firing line_--_The main body arrives and joins in the +fray_--_Subsequent manoeuvres of our column_--_The Spanish retreat_--_A +computation of losses_. + + +The ensuing account of our fight with the Alphonso XIII Regiment of +Cazadores, on the 10th of August, is taken bodily from the official report +made by General Schwan to Major-General Miles under date of August 21:-- + +At a distance of about seven miles from Mayaguez the Rio Rosario, coming +from the east, parallels the road for nearly a mile, and empties into the +Rio Grande just south of Hormigueros. A sugar-mill stands just off the road +to the left; and a wagon-road branches off to the right, lined with hedge +and brush, and, crossing the Rosario on an iron bridge, leads to the hamlet +of Hormigueros, which is located on a side hill 1,500 yards from the main +road. The ground to the south of Hormigueros is covered with banana groves +and cane fields. At about 600 yards from where the Hormigueros road leaves +the main road the latter crosses the Rio Grande on a wooden bridge. Just +beyond this bridge the road to Cabo Rojo branches off to the south. From +this point, for nearly a mile, the main road passes through very low, flat +ground, cut up with deep furrows, which extend to the hills on the left +and the river on the right, and contain considerable water from recent +rains.... To resume the narrative of the day's events, near a point on the +main road where it is flanked by sugar-mills our cavalry was fired into, +though without effect, by the enemy's scouts, who were concealed behind a +hedge lining the Hormigueros road. They were easily dispersed. The infantry +and advance-guard having passed this point, the cavalry took the latter +road, and, crossing the Rosario, turned westward, and advanced under cover +of the railroad embankment until--taking every opportunity to damage the +enemy by its fire action--it reached a position beyond the covered wooden +bridge. + +[Illustration: Guenar Bridge, Mayaguez.] + +The brigade commander had left San German at the head of the main body. +When he heard the firing in his front, he sent word to commanding officers +to advance without further halt, and to keep their commands closed up. +Similar orders were sent to the train. He was informed and approved of +the route taken by the cavalry before reaching the bridge. He crossed the +latter about half-past three o'clock, being at that time about 500 yards in +advance of the main body. + +[Illustration: Upper End of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez.] + +A staff officer, who had been sent ahead to select camp, reported at this +time the ground west of the Cabo Rojo road as suitable for this purpose; +but owing to the suspected proximity of the enemy, whose position had not +yet been determined, it was decided to push ahead and beyond the iron +bridge. This, despite the fact that the men had now marched 13 miles and +were very tired. Once in possession of the bridge and the high ground to +the north of it, the command would occupy a strong position, which +would make it hard to check its advance on Mayaguez. Accordingly, the +advance-guard, under Captain Hoyt, moved forward, deploying its advance +party as skirmishers and its supports into a line of squads. In this +formation it continued until it had approached the bridge within about 400 +yards. At this juncture the enemy opened fire, at first individual fire. +The firing aimed at the advance-guard accelerated the march of the Eleventh +Infantry, which ... reported to the brigade commander, whose staff had +already commenced the demolition of the wire fences enclosing the road. +About the time that the brigade commander caused the deployment of +two companies to re-enforce the advance-guard,--Major Gilbraith in +command,--the enemy, from his position in the hills to the right front, +fired volleys at the main body through the interval separating the infantry +advance-guard from the cavalry, wounding a number of men, also an officer +and several horses of the brigade staff. Meanwhile the artillery battalion, +under the authority of the brigade commander, had taken up a position +to the left of the road. As the powder used by the enemy was absolutely +smokeless, and his position being, moreover, for the most part screened by +the trees along the Rio Grande, the question of the exact direction to be +given Major Gilbraith's detachment, and to the lines of battle about to be +formed from the main column, became a most perplexing one. Luckily, this +uncertainty did not last long, those of the enemy's bullets that struck the +ground near us solving the problem. Some slight confusion was caused by +a premature and hurried deployment of the remaining companies, which +interfered somewhat with the brigade commander's intention of forming two +additional lines, one to support the fighting line and the other to act +as a reserve, or as the changing conditions of the combat might render +expedient. But under his supervision this defective formation was soon +rectified, three companies being placed on the right and four companies on +the left of the road, the former, under Lieutenant-Colonel Burke, moving +forward in support of Major Gilbraith, and the latter being held back for a +time. Major Gilbraith and Colonel Burke's troops, being unable to cross the +creek, passed over the bridge that spans it by the left flank, the former's +companies having previously occupied a sheltered place in a ditch parallel +to and to the right of the main road. About this time the advance-guard, +one of the companies of which (Penrose's) had previously held for a short +time a knoll on the left of the road, moved forward and crossed the iron +bridge, the advance sections of the companies being led by Lieutenants +Alexander and Wells, respectively. After ... a time the entire +advance-guard, including the two Gatling guns, was concentrated on the +right of the railroad. It dislodged the enemy, and with the cavalry troop +to the right,--the troop had arrived about this time, after doing effective +service in threatening the enemy's flank,--and with the companies of Major +Gilbraith pushed forward in the centre, took up a position on the northern +line of hills. Here they were rejoined by the infantry and by two pieces +of artillery under First Lieutenant Archibald Campbell, which the brigade +commander had ordered forward, and which by their fire added to the +discomfiture of the enemy. The two Gatling guns under Lieutenant Maginnis, +with the advance, did good work, at first in a place near the creek where +the gunners had a good view of the enemy, and later on at the various +positions of the advance-guard. The two guns from the main body were also +operated from the crest of the hill during the latter stage of the combat. + +[Illustration: The Town of Sabana Grande.] + +The affair ended about six o'clock; and the troops, including all the +artillery, bivouacked on or near the position occupied by the enemy. The +wagon train afterward went into park between the railroad and the Rio +Grande, near enough to enable the men to get what was necessary for their +comfort during the night. Before darkness set in, Captain Macomb with his +troop was directed to make an effort to capture a railway train in plain +sight from the hill occupied by the command; but the train got under way +before he could reach it. It also escaped some shots that were fired at it +by the artillery. Although it had now become quite dark, the captain picked +up a few prisoners, including a wounded lieutenant. + +The difficulty in locating the enemy, and hence in giving proper direction +to the attack formations, has already been alluded to. Another cause of +anxiety during the earlier stage of the fight were the reports that came to +the brigade commander from different parts of the field, through officers, +that the enemy was getting around our right (or left) flank, and +endeavoring to capture our train. There may have been some foundation for +these reports; but, if so, the flanking parties were probably small, and +deterred from pursuing their design by our steady advance. It may be added +that the train was well guarded. + +[Illustration: Witch River, near Cabo Rojo.] + +Our loss embraced 1 enlisted man killed and 1 officer and 15 men wounded. +All the wounded, the surgeons say, will recover. The enemy's loss cannot be +definitely ascertained, but it is estimated at 15 killed alone. It probably +did not fall short of 50 in killed and wounded. + +The command continued its march at an early hour the following morning, the +advance-guard and the main body proceeding slowly and with great caution. +This extra care was unnecessary. Those of the enemy's forces that were held +in reserve (some of them not far from the city) had fled precipitately as +soon as they realized the extent of their defeat. + +In connection with the foregoing report I consider the subjoined document +as being of interest:-- + + HEADQUARTERS UNITED STATES MILITARY + EXPEDITION IN CAMP AT MAYAGUEZ, + PUERTO RICO, Aug. 12, 1898. + + GENERAL ORDERS + No. 14. + +The brigadier-general commanding desires to convey to the officers and +soldiers of his command his thanks for their excellent conduct in the +engagement they had on the 10th instant, near the town of Hormigueros, with +the Spanish forces in that vicinity. Concealed in a strong position, they +poured a murderous fire into our troops about to go into camp after a +fatiguing march. Had the disposition of the cavalry screen and of the +advance-guard--which latter included both infantry and artillery--been less +perfect, or had the command been deficient in discipline or other soldierly +qualities, such an attack might have proved disastrous. As it was, it was +promptly and gallantly repulsed, the repulse resulting in the enemy's +precipitate evacuation of the city of Mayaguez, though it had been placed +in a state of defence. + +[Illustration: American Camp at Mayaguez.] + +The major-general commanding the army has been pleased to commend the +troops for their gallant action on this occasion,--a fact which it affords +the brigade commander genuine satisfaction to announce. + +By command of Brigadier-General Schwan. + +GROTE HUTCHESON, + +_Captain and Assistant Adjutant-General._ + + + +CHAPTER VI + +The Second Day Ends + +_A personal résumé of the fight_--_Lack of melodramatic accompaniments_--_A +lost chance of glory_--_Another neglected opportunity_--_A glimpse of the +flag_--_Once more into camp_. + + +At the risk of being considered tautological, I cannot refrain from +devoting another chapter to the Hormigueros fight: first, because it was my +initial experience under fire; and, second, because there are more things +in a soldier's memory than are set forth in the official report of his +commanding general. + +[Illustration: Plaza Mercado, Mayaguez.] + +Our advance-guard, after leaving San German, marched rapidly along the +level road leading to Mayaguez until about three o'clock in the afternoon. +As the head of our column came into view, the country people living along +the route gathered their most precious possessions into huge bundles, and +hurried away across the fields,--a sure sign that we were approaching the +enemy's position. At the hour mentioned we were suddenly set upon by a +blinding shower, and a halt was made for about fifteen minutes, when, the +fury of the downpour having somewhat abated, we once more began to move +ahead. The cavalry had gone off on a side road for some purpose not known +to me, and the infantry was deployed in long lines to the right and left, +while the artillery brought up the rear at an interval of about a hundred +yards. At half-past three the skirmishers came to the Rio Rosario, but, +being unable to ford it, were called back to the road and started across +the iron bridge, already described by General Schwan. It was at this moment +that the Spanish forces opened fire, concealed in a dense undergrowth about +500 yards in our front. + +All jammed together as we were, it would seem that we might have been +absolutely slaughtered by the leaden hail which was poured in upon us; and +the only explanation of our marvellous immunity probably lies in the fact +that the enemy were surprisingly bad shots. Bullets whistled by our heads, +or kicked up the dirt at our feet; but, though the pop of rifles made up a +continuous sound like the opening of a hundred thousand beer-bottles, not a +vestige of smoke rose in the clear air, not a patch of hostile uniform was +to be seen. + +For some reason our infantry did not at once reply to the Spanish +fusillade; and during this brief interval two men and two horses were +wounded in the platoon of artillery which stood idly just behind the +foot-soldiers,--too close, in fact, to be of any service, and in the way +of everybody. Then the two Gatling guns under Lieutenant Maginnis went off +into the field at our right, where they began to speak for themselves; and +Gatling guns in action have a mighty cheerful effect upon your nerves, +if they happen to be on your side of the fracas. Next, an order from the +general sent the artillery galloping to the rear for about an eighth of a +mile, where, after a short detour to the left and a mad race across swampy, +ditch-dug fields, it took up a temporary position on a convenient knoll. +The main body of our command had meanwhile arrived, and got into the row +without ceremony, the firing now being heavy on both sides. My memory +serves me with no clear impression of the sequence of events after this +period. + +[Illustration: Mouth of the Mayaguez River.] + +During the first hour of our fighting all the powder used by us was as +smokeless as that of the foe, and again and again the remark was passed +that this did not seem like the real business of war. In other respects +as well there were few of the accompaniments that we conjure up in our +stay-at-home imagination of battle scenes. There was a little galloping of +hooves, not long sustained; an occasional sharp cry of command or sharper +oath; an intermittent rumble and jar from the infrequently moved artillery, +not yet in action; and perhaps a groan or two from the wounded. But, even +when the field-rifles began to boom and shroud the landscape in drifting +smoke, the make-believe aspect of the affair did not in any degree +diminish. There were no clouds of dust, no heaps of slain, no cheers, no +desperate charges, and not even a glimpse of the stars and stripes. Away +to our right we could see crowds of spectators on the elevated platform +surrounding the Sanctuary of Montserrate; and I remember thinking it was +well no admission fee had been charged for the spectacle upon which they +gazed, else they would have murmured themselves defrauded. + +[Illustration: A Bit of Yauco.] + +My own most thrilling moments came about in this way: The platoon of +artillery to which I belonged had, as already related, decided that its +position directly behind the hotly beset infantry was untenable, and +consequently fell back at speed, for some distance. Standing at the head of +the first piece, with all my faculties engrossed by the scene before me, I +did not hear the order which should have sent me scampering to my seat on +the limber-chest, and so suddenly found myself alone, with my comrades +mounted and away in full career. A glance about me disclosed the fact that +no other living thing was standing up within a radius of five hundred +yards. I was a conspicuous mark for the eager slayers in the adjacent +underbrush; and I ought, of course, to rejoin my section as quickly as +possible. So I ran. It occurred to me that here was my chance to show what +I was made of. I would stop running, fill and light my pipe, and stalk in +a leisurely manner down the white road, thus winning, perhaps, comment +and applause from high places. I say all this occurred to me; but I also +happened to recollect the story told of the survivor of Bull Run, who +replied to a sneering criticism anent the Federal retreat from that famous +field by the sententious rejoinder that "all them as didn't run was there +yet,"--and I felt that I could fully appreciate the point. So I continued +to sprint as fast as I could, leaving the bubble Reputation for other +seekers, or for myself upon some other day and field. I was not afraid, and +I was simply doing my duty; but I sometimes think that I may have neglected +the flood-tide of opportunity, and I often wonder why, in melodramatic +crises, a man's mind is not always able to control his legs. + +I was not alone in the disregard of romantic possibilities. Later in the +afternoon I saw a wounded private propped up against a fence, and bleeding +copiously from a bullet-hole that extended through both cheeks. His eyes +were closed, and he was making queer noises in his throat. As I happened to +be idle at the instant, I stepped to his side, and inquired compassionately +if I could do anything for him. He opened his eyes with a jerk, spat forth +a couple of teeth, and replied: "If you'll tell me how the beginning of +'Sweet Marie' goes, I'll give you a piece of my face for a souvenir. I've +been trying to get that blame tune straight for the last fifteen minutes, +but keep getting off my trolley." And he laughed a ghastly laugh. I stared +at him in amazement, and then, seeing that he was not delirious, strode +moodily away. What that man ought to have said was, "How goes the fight?" +or "A drop of water, for God's sake"; but it is the painful truth that he +didn't. + +[Illustration: Wooden Dock at Mayaguez. In the Offing can be seen the +German Man-of-war "Geier."] + +A striking feature of the engagement was the thoroughly matter-of-fact +manner in which both officers and men went about their work. There was no +strutting, no posing, no shirking, but an evident intention on the part +of all concerned, from General Schwan down, to do whatever had to be done +without unnecessary fuss and feathers, promptly and well. I have seen far +more excitement displayed on an ordinary drill-ground at home, in the +piping times of peace. + +A sudden appearance of the flag just after the trumpets had sounded "cease +firing" brought moisture to the eyes of many a toughened veteran; but even +then, with victory still glowing in our grasp, there was not the ghost of a +cheer. We were simply more tired and hungry than usual, and until matters +had been straightened out for the night had no time for sentiment. And, +when we finally went into camp on the very field where we had just ceased +fighting, we found our chief interest centred in hot coffee, crisp +hard-tack, and comfortable blankets. We had begun to realize that we might +have lain stiffer and starker that night but for the whim of chance, and +were silent with the clacking tongue. + + * * * * * + +Hormigueros, the village which gave its name to this engagement, is a place +of about 3,000 inhabitants, whose houses cluster about the base of the +mountain crowned by the Sanctuary of Montserrate. This church is visited by +an endless stream of pilgrims, and many wild legends are told concerning +it. + + +[Illustration: "Eleventh of August" Street.] + + + +CHAPTER VII + +The Occupation of Mayaguez + +_We enter the city in triumph--An enthusiastic reception--A pretty girl +and the star-spangled banner--Other memorable incidents--Our rags and +tatters--A description of Mayaguez--We pitch our tents in a swamp--The +First Kentucky Volunteers._ + + +As early as half-past eight on the following morning--August 11--our scouts +entered the city of Mayaguez, some three or four miles distant from our +camp of the night before. About an hour later Captain Macomb marched his +troop through the streets, accompanied by the brigade headquarters staff. +Many prominent citizens greeted General Schwan at the Casa del Rey, and +declared themselves subject to his orders. + +At eleven o'clock the entire brigade entered Mayaguez, with the general +riding at its head, colors flying, and band playing. + +We had been through this triumphal entry business several times before; but +I, for one, never grew tired of it. It was for all the world like being in +the procession of a great circus. The sidewalks, balconies, windows, and +roof-tops were packed with wide-eyed humanity, of all ages and conditions, +hues, sizes, and degrees of beauty. At every street corner, and in every +square, great crowds of the lower classes rent the air with vivas and +bravos, regulating their enthusiasm by the size of the guns that swung past +them. It is easy enough for some grades of mankind to cheer with frenzy the +appearance of a victor, no matter who he be; and a Chinese host would +have been received with just as much acclaim as we were, had they come as +conquering heroes. The houses of the aristocrats sent us no demonstration +of feeling one way or the other, with a single startling and highly +dramatic exception. We had turned from the Calle Mirasol into the Calle +Candalaria, and the head of the column had almost reached the Plaza +Principal. The band had just crashed into "The Stars and Stripes Forever." +Suddenly the crowd on an upper balcony of a stately house to the left was +seen to sway violently; and a moment later a beautiful young girl, tears +streaming from her eyes, leant far out over the rail, and waved a crudely +made Old Glory over the ragged ranks below. For a breath we were struck +dumb by this apparition. Then every hat came off; and for the first time +that day we split the heavens with a cheer,--lustily and long. The outbreak +was infectious, and from every side the clamor swelled and burst till it +seemed as if the universe had vaulted into mad tumult at the touch of a +girl's hand. Her name was Catalina Palmer, and she has since married an +American lieutenant. But that, as Kipling would say, is another story. + +[Illustration: The Officers of the Alphonso XIII Regiment of Cazadores, +taken a few days before the Fight with the American Troops at Hormigueros.] + +At one corner a richly dressed old woman threw handful after handful +of small silver coins among us. In several places we trod upon great +quantities of flowers thrown in our path by peasant girls. The flags of +England, Germany, France, and Italy, were everywhere to be seen. The +quaintly uniformed corps of firemen turned out in splendor to do us honor, +and we saluted with grave dignity the immense statue of Columbus standing +in the centre of the town. By those who entered Mayaguez that day none of +these things will ever be forgotten. + +From a spectacular point of view I am inclined to believe that Kiralfy +would have regarded us with scorn and derision, though Jack Falstaff +might have been better pleased. We were gaunt, bronzed, and dishevelled, +unshaven, dirty, and tattered. Toes protruded from shoes, our hats were +full of holes, our trousers hardly deserved the name, and we limped +disgracefully. It was the popular impression in Puerto Rico that every +American soldier was a full-fledged millionaire, but even they expressed +some disappointment at our evident disregard for the external superfluities +of elegance. But, when you stop to consider it, we did not go to the +Antilles to make love to the pretty girls. We were quite sufficiently +clothed and fed to march through tropical underbrush, take several cities, +and put our more gaudily equipped enemies to ignominious flight. And that +is what we were there for. + +[Illustration: The Military Hospital, Mayaguez.] + +In the early part of the afternoon we went into camp about a mile and a +half outside the city lines, and the main body remained here until August +13. The camping-ground was a bad one, lying as it did in a bowl formed by a +circle of low hills; and it was soaked and spongy to a degree approaching +absolute swampiness. As we were not allowed to go into the city, we +grudgingly sat still, and chanted our misery to the unresponsive +wilderness, getting our feet wet and gathering the frolicsome malaria germ +by way of interlude. + +On the evening of our arrival a transport steamed into the bay, having on +board the First Kentucky Volunteers, who for some weeks afterward were +quartered in the town, doing provost duty and breaking hearts. Later on we +came to know them well; and, when they marched away to Ponce, we missed +them sadly. They had lots of money, and they spent it freely. We of the +regular brigade had not been paid for three months. + + * * * * * + +Mayaguez is a darling little city on the western coast of Puerto Rico,--a +place of lattices, balconies, and walled-in gardens ablaze with blossoms. +Behind it lies a semicircle of green hills, and before it is the laughing +sea. Columbus touched here in one of his earlier voyages, and historical +associations have been accumulating ever since. + +It is the third largest town on the island, having a population of 25,000, +the majority of whom are white. The harbor is next best to that at +San Juan,--102 miles distant,--and is an open roadstead formed by two +projecting capes. It is a seaport of considerable commerce, and +exports sugar, coffee, oranges, pineapples, and cocoanuts in large +quantities,--principally, with the exception of coffee, to the United +States. Of industry not much can be said, save that there are three +manufactories of chocolate, solely for local consumption. The climate is +excellent, the temperature never exceeding 90° F. + +[Illustration: Part of the Village of Maricao.] + +The city is connected by tramway with the neighboring town of Aguadilla, +and by railroad with Lares on one side and Hormigueros on the other. It +has a civil and military hospital, two asylums, a public library, three +bridges, a handsome market,--the best on the island, constructed entirely +of iron and stone, at a cost of 70,000 pesos,--a slaughter-house, a +theatre, a casino, and a number of societies of instruction, recreation, +and commerce. It also has a post-office and telegraph station; was founded +in 1760, and given the title of city in 1877. + +A river called the Mayaguez divides the town into two parts, connected by +two pretty iron bridges named Marina and Guenar, respectively. The sands of +this river formerly yielded much gold; and there is gold still to be had +from the same source, if one has energy enough to seek it. There are no +less than 37 streets and 4 squares,--the Principal, Mercado, Iglesia, and +Teatro,--all adorned by dainty fountains, and, in one instance,--the Plaza +del Teatro,--a veritable ocean of flowers as well. The Calle Mendez-Vigo +is one of the most picturesque and attractive streets in the world. It +stretches from one end of the town to the other, wide and beautifully +clean; and it is lined on either hand by the handsome houses of rich +merchants. In the middle of its length lies the Plaza del Flores, between +the theatre and the Hotel Paris. Moreover, it is in the Calle Mendez-Vigo +that there lives the prettiest girl in Puerto Rico,--a little maid of +sixteen years, Esperanza Bages by name, and already famous for her charms. + +The church was built in 1760. It is of masonry, with two towers and +magnificent altars. The town hall, situated on the Plaza Principal, is a +good stone building of two stories. Annexed to it is the Casa del Rey, +built in 1832, and serving for offices of the military commandancy. The +infantry barracks--Cuartel del Infanteria--is also a building of modern +construction, dating from 1848; and, though of simple architecture, it is +very capacious. + +And now let us leave Mayaguez for a little while, and get on with the war. + +[Illustration: Infantry Barracks, Mayaguez.] + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +The Engagement at Las Marias + +_Difficulties encountered in locating the retreating enemy_--_Final +determination upon pursuit_--_Lieutenant-Colonel Burke sets +forth_--_Discovery of Spanish troops near Las Marias_--_A one-sided +encounter_--_Unwelcome notification of truce_--_The rest of the brigade +comes up_--_Feeding the prisoners_--_Our disappointment_. + + +HEADQUARTERS INDEPENDENT BRIGADE (REGULARS), + +MAYACUEZ, PUERTO RICO, + +Aug. 22, 1898. + +GENERAL J.C. GILMORE, Headquarters of the Army, Ponce, P.R. + +_Sir_,--... Detachments from the cavalry troop went out (from Mayaguez) in +the afternoon of the 11th on both roads leading to Lares; but the left hand +or westerly of these roads was followed only a short distance, information, +thought to be reliable, having been received to the effect that the bulk of +the enemy's force had taken the more easterly road, on which the town of +Maricao is situated. This part of the force was reported as making fair +headway, having only a pack-train as transportation. Reports also came to +brigade headquarters that Spanish troops in large numbers, coming from +different places,--including Aguadilla and Pepino,--were concentrating to +attack my command. While not impressed with the accuracy of these reports, +I had the outposts strengthened, and placed a field officer in charge of +them. A party from the outposts, sent to reconnoitre the Las Marias road, +brought word on the afternoon of the 12th that the rear-guard of the +Spanish was still within five miles of Mayaguez, and proceeding slowly. + +[Illustration: The Rosario River, near Hormigueros.] + +I immediately determined to pursue and, if possible, to capture or destroy +this force, and at first resolved to move out with the entire command. +On reflection, however, I realized that there were objections to such a +course. The city and surrounding country were in an unsettled and excited +state, the latter swarming with guerillas, deserters, and bushwackers. I +had no accurate knowledge of the spirit, strength, and location of the +enemy's forces, supposed to be within easy reach of Mayaguez. Then, too, +the rest of my command, already worn down by the exhausting marches and +operations beginning on the 9th, had been seriously broken in upon by +heavy outpost duty and drenching rains, which latter had made their camp a +veritable mud-hole. Furthermore, the road to Lares, except for the first +eight miles out, was said to be all but impassable for wheeled vehicles; +and this reminded me that the major-general commanding had intimated that +I might have to go to Lares by way of Aguadilla. I therefore concluded +to despatch a reconnoissance in force, under Lieutenant-Colonel Burke, +Eleventh Infantry, to harass the enemy and to retard its progress in every +way. The detachment was made up of six companies of infantry and one +platoon each of cavalry and artillery, and started at ten o'clock A.M. on +August 12. It was given ample transportation for its three days' rations +and the infantrymen's packs. It was therefore as mobile as it could be +made without a pack-train. Hindered by excessive heat, followed by heavy +showers, it marched only to a point where the two roads, above mentioned, +are joined by a cross-road,--or about nine miles. I did not hear from +Colonel Burke during the night, as I had hoped to; and the remainder of my +command had its wagons packed, and was preparing to pull out on the morning +of the 13th, when a courier came to me from him with a report of the +difficulties that had retarded his progress, and of the presence of a +Spanish force near Las Marias, variously estimated at from 1,200 to 2,500. +This force, the colonel said, had taken up a defensive position; and he was +moving toward it... + +Respectfully submitted, + +THEODORE SCHWAN, _Brigadier-General Commanding_. + +[Illustration: A Street in San German.] + +MAYAGUEZ, PUERTO RICO, Aug. 16. + +_My dear Gilmore_,--Availing myself of the first breathing-spell I have had +for some time, I wish in this informal way and in advance of my regular +report to say a few words to the general and yourself regarding our last +Saturday's work (August 13). + +As soon as the result of the Hormigueros fight became known in +Mayaguez--about nine o'clock on the 10th--Colonel Soto, the commander, +"pulled up stakes." That the Spanish troops left in the greatest hurry the +condition of their barracks abundantly evidenced. Our advance-guard found +the city entirely clear of the Spanish, and I ordered my cavalry to keep +in touch with them. The cavalry took the right-hand road of the two roads +leading to Lares, over which some of the Spanish troops had actually gone; +and in the evening the troop commander reported that they were between +seven and ten miles off, and still retreating. My command was thoroughly +tired. No one without witnessing it can conceive the distress an infantry +soldier suffers while marching in this hot climate, in a deep column, +weighted down as he is even without his pack; and some rest seemed actually +imperative. But the next morning I found that the main body of the +Spanish had taken the westerly (or left hand) road to Lares, and early on +Friday--there being many other things to engage the attention of myself and +troops--I started Burke out in pursuit, with about 700 men, all told. I +overtook him Saturday morning about three and one-half miles north of +Las Marias. His infantry had pulled his guns over roads that were almost +perpendicular. His troops were exchanging shots at long range across a deep +valley with the retreating Spaniards, most of whom had forded (losing a lot +of men, who were drowned) a deep and rapid river known in that country +as the Rio Prieto. Our fire had already demoralized the thoroughly +disheartened and half-famished Spanish soldiers; and their rear-guard, at +least, was also disorganized and hiding in the hills. + +[Illustration: Tobacco Plantation (cutting leaves), Mayaguez.] + +A company of infantry I had sent out brought in, about ten o'clock in the +evening, forty odd prisoners, a number of pack-animals, etc. Our men were +thoroughly worn out by the day's work. Early the next morning I had four +companies of infantry, the cavalry, and two guns ready to resume the +pursuit. And there cannot be the shadow of a doubt that, had I had five +more hours, I should have taken Lares; for that the flying Spaniards had +prepared to abandon it at once I have the most reliable information. But +at this particular juncture the notice that hostilities would be suspended +came to me. No troops ever "suspended" with worse grace. We had given the +Spanish no peace, and had taken all the starch out of them. The colonel and +lieutenant-colonel had surrendered. Their troops were utterly demoralized +and disintegrated. It seemed a pity to deprive us of the full fruits of a +victory for which we had labored so hard; but of course we had to bow to +the inevitable. Please let the general read this. + +Faithfully your friend, + +THEO. SCHWAN. + +The part of our command left under Colonel DeRussy set out on the morning +of the 13th to join the rest of the column, whose movements you have +already followed in the preceding documents. The last detachment found it +no less difficult to make headway than had the first; and on the morning of +the 14th the entire brigade was so broken up and strung out that its head +and tail were a good nine miles apart. So much trouble had been experienced +in getting the artillery up the incredibly steep mountain-sides that no +one had been able to give assistance or even thought to the hopelessly +embarrassed wagon-train, and consequently we were practically without food +for over twenty-four hours. When at last something to eat did come plodding +along, we were obliged to put up with half-rations in order that our little +collection of recently acquired prisoners might be fed. At a conservative +estimate, those prisoners must have been the hungriest lot of men that ever +laid down their arms. There were less than sixty of them, and they drew +rations for about 1,200. However, they were fed; and we had the consolation +of realizing that victory, like some other things of less familiar +acquaintance, is its own reward. By noon on the 14th, everything was once +more in order; and I have not yet ceased to wonder how those in authority +managed to erase so quickly the chaos of the night before. + +[Illustration: The Plaza Principal in Mayaguez, looking toward the Church.] + +The engagement at Las Marias, while not particularly momentous in itself, +was note-worthy as being the last between our forces and those of Spain +during the recent war. I do not believe that the knowledge of this +fact--even had we possessed it at the time--would have materially consoled +us for the disappointment we felt in being obliged to stop shooting just +when we had learned to do it so beautifully; but, still, it is something to +have been in at the finish. + + + +CHAPTER IX + +The Territory Won + +_General Schwan returns to Mayaguez_--_Business and pleasure_--_A custom +we abolished_--_Extent of the district captured by our brigade_ +--_Aguadllla_--_Facilities for transportation_--_Labor and +the laborer_--_The cost of living_--_Rents and real estate_--_Skilled +workmen_--_A word about investments_. + + +On August 16, in obedience to orders from Army Headquarters, General Schwan +left the bulk of his troops in the positions they had respectively occupied +at the time of the receipt of the truce, and, accompanied by the artillery, +returned to Mayaguez. The people of this city had not yet recovered from +the ferment into which they had been thrown by our advent, and went about +in a state of tremulous titillation, expecting I know not what. At any +rate, it did not seem to arrive; and after a day or two had passed without +any sign of fell intent upon our part the merchants allowed themselves to +be coaxed back into their places of business. The cafés were once more +thronged. Semi-weekly concerts were given in the Plaza Principal by the +band of the Eleventh Infantry and the Banda del Bomberos, in alternation. +Balls, dinner-parties, and flirtations resumed their interrupted course, +gathering new zest and brilliancy from the foreign element within the +gates. All the Americans began to study Spanish, and all the Puerto Ricans +to study English, without particularly gratifying results on either side. +Cocking-mains, local games of chance, and more hectic immoralities were set +forth for the delectation of the private soldiers; while I have personal +knowledge of at least one quasi-clandestine bullfight, that may be best +described as a furtive fizzle. + +Strict measures were taken by the brigade commander to prevent +anything resembling disorderly conduct among his men, and though these +laurel-crowned heroes, under the influence of a wonderfully cheap rum, were +seized at odd moments with an evident desire to start the war all over +again, there was not much difficulty encountered in maintaining a degree of +decorum that was highly satisfactory. + +The sanitation of the municipality was rigorously inquired into, and +regulated; but it is only justice to the residents of Mayaguez to say that +little reform was necessary in this regard, as the current statistics of +mortality and disease amply proved. Of the few changes made, however, one +may be specifically mentioned. + +[Illustration: A Ruined Church along our Line of March.] + +[Illustration: A Puerto Rican Laundry.] + +It was the custom whenever a peasant died to carry the corpse to the +cemetery in a coffin hired at transient rates, and then, having dumped the +deceased into a shallow grave, to return what is facetiously known as the +"wooden overcoat" to its original owner, for further service. This was bad +enough, considering the danger of infection thus engendered; but much worse +remains behind. It seems that the plot of ground reserved for dead paupers +was very circumscribed. So it had become necessary to bury four or five +bodies in the same hole, the last one in being perhaps no more than six +inches from the light of day. And, as if this state of affairs were not +already sufficiently horrible, we found that the congestion was sometimes +still further relieved by a wholesale emptying of graves, the bones thus +removed being thrown into some adjacent corner above ground, where they lay +undisturbed in the hot sunshine and smelt to heaven. This ghastly practice +was summarily stopped. + + * * * * * + +If you will take a map of Puerto Rico and cut off the western section by +drawing a line from Guanica through Lares to Camuy, you will see at once +the extent of the territory brought under American control by General +Schwan. The principal towns of this section, in addition to those already +described, are Aguadilla, Maricao, Añasco, Cabo Rojo, Lares, and Las +Marias; but none of these places are important enough to call for detailed +notice, with the possible exception of the first-named. This city, +Aguadilla, while it has a population of only 5,500, is notable as being the +most picturesque town on the entire island. It is the capital and port of +the surrounding district; and, though the climate is hot, it is remarkably +healthful. The site is a stretch of shore facing Mona Channel, between +Cape Borinquen and the Rio Culebrinas. Directly behind rises the steep +green-crested Jaicoa Mountain, its slopes covered with orange, lemon, and +palm trees in bewildering profusion; while half-way to the summit there +gushes forth a fairylike, crystal stream, which flows directly through the +town before emptying into the bay. An antique church and a little fort of +11 guns, called Conception, add to the scenic beauty of the picture, when +viewed from the sea. Tourists will probably spoil this lovely town before +the end of another decade, but at present it is a quivering page of +romance. + +[Illustration: On the Road to Lares.] + +[Illustration: The Best Outfit in our Wagon Train.] + +Of the facilities for transportation in this part of Puerto Rico, it may +be said that they are either extremely good or extremely bad. The former +condition prevails generally in the valleys, and the latter among the hills +toward the interior. There are several interrupted lines of railroad, and +burros are used to a considerable extent by the inland planters; but far +the greater part of communication and carriage is accomplished by way of +the sea. + +Labor here, as elsewhere in the tropics, is to be had very cheaply, but is +uncertain, sluggish, and dishonest. A man for plantation work can be hired +for almost nothing a day, but he will not earn even that unless he is +driven at the point of a machete. The local peon desires to toil no longer +than is necessary to obtain the bare wherewithal to fill his belly. Then +he dreams away the remainder of the day, smoking the eternal cigarette; +perhaps rousing himself sufficiently to pick the strings of a guitar in the +cool of the evening--and this, at least, the beggar does well. He is not +at all ambitious to improve his condition, and he will never be any better +than he is to-day. Probably he will be much worse. He will cut throats and +burn haciendas all the gay year round if he is not allowed to gang his ain +gait. We are going to reform him, of course; but--the day will come when +we shall be ashamed to look Spain in the face. In Cuba this man's brothers +were known as "patriots"; which meant that they were soldiers when there +was any work to be done, and laborers when fighting was on hand. In my +opinion, they are vicious beasts. + +The cost of living naturally hinges upon the price of labor; and so one +may eat and drink in Puerto Rico for a trifle more than a song. Fruit and +vegetables are cheap and plentiful, though flour is so costly as to be +almost a luxury; while the meats are neither low in price nor good in +quality. Excellent fowls are to be had for very little money. Milk is dear +and dangerous; butter is only known as it appears in cans from Denmark; and +all the other dairy products are of the meanest description. Still, one can +live with pleasure and comfort upon the many peculiarly native articles of +subsistence in common use. + +[Illustration: "Promenade of the Fleas" in Yauco.] + +[Illustration: When only One Man gets a Letter.] + +Rents are low, but satisfactory houses are seldom to be had when they are +wanted. + +There is always room in the hotels of the larger towns; and, until one can +build for himself, a hotel offers a very pleasant substitute--at a slightly +increased expense. Land, for building purposes, or in an unimproved state, +can be leased for a sum that is almost nominal, except in a few highly +favored localities. Purchasers of land are more than likely to find +themselves immediately embroiled in a lawsuit over the title. If no flaw +exists in your title, then it does exist in one that was drawn up a hundred +years ago; and in either case the result is the same--you lose. + +Skilled workmen in any branch of industry will not find a good field for +their abilities in Puerto Rico, at least not for a few years to come. If +there were any demand for their services,--which there isn't,--they would +not be able to command anything approaching the standard of wages usual in +the United States. + +To the investor, dairy farms, ice-plants, transportation schemes, and +bar-rooms offer tempting possibilities,--I reserve agriculture for separate +consideration,--but it cannot be too forcibly emphasized that plenty of +money, good-health, patience, and a smattering of the Spanish language are +absolutely indispensable requisites to the foreigner trying to do business +on this island. + +[Illustration: The "Weary Travellers' Spring," near Añasco.] + +[Illustration: A Crude Sugar Mill near Las Marias.] + + + +CHAPTER X + +The End of the Campaign + +_Arrival of the mail-steamer_--_The soldier-boy and his letters_--_The +greater part of the brigade is quartered in Mayaguez_--_Agriculture +in Puerto Rico_--_Material result of our campaign_--_A farewell +order_--_General Schwan departs for the United States_. + + +On the 19th of August a steamer came into the harbor, bringing us a mail, +the first we had received since the beginning of July. If the people who +wrote those letters could have seen the happiness they wrought upon their +distant boys, I am sure they would have been surprised and touched. Again +and again we read the simple news of home,--the cat was dead, or little +sister had the mumps, or father had built a new fence around the back +pasture,--and wars and kings and presidents faded into forgetfulness before +the heart to heart talks that had come from over-seas. + +I don't suppose there is anybody that knows the value of a letter better +than a soldier does. A few blotted lines from his mother or sister or +sweetheart are meat and drink and fine raiment for his soul. He feels brave +again and good again and--homesick again. He makes life a burden for the +whole camp until he has borrowed or stolen a scrap of paper and a stubby +pencil wherewith to make reply. He sits down in some convenient spot, with +emotion fairly oozing from every pore, and for a solid hour he wrestles +with his tools and vocabulary. The result probably does not altogether +please him. He feels that he has said too much about his lack of socks, +the toughness of his fare, the flatness of his purse. All the love and +tenderness he meant to set down have somehow refused to leave him, even in +description. But he knows he will be massacred if he goes howling for more +paper; and so he sends off what he has written, counting the weary days +until his answer comes. The man who first invented writing was, without +doubt, the greatest man that ever lived. + +[Illustration: A very Popular Spot.] + +[Illustration: Two Knights and a Pawn.] + +On August 25 it was decided to bring all but four companies of the brigade +into quarters at Mayaguez, chiefly because a great deal of sickness had +begun to spring up in the outlying camps. This was accordingly done. + + * * * * * + +Scientific agriculture and prosperity have long been regarded as almost +synonymous terms in Puerto Rico. + +The provincial government established and maintained an experimental +station at Rio Piedras, for the purpose of promoting a technical knowledge +of the native soil-products; and the results of this step have proved +invaluable. The recent director of the station, Señor Fernando Lopez Tuero, +wrote, while in office, several monographs on tropical agriculture; which I +have been at some pains to translate in my search for absolutely reliable +information relating to that subject. Señor Tuero is considered, to be a +high and conservative authority by those of his compatriots who are best +able to judge; and I feel confident that the following estimates are +nearly, if not entirely, correct:-- + +The chief agricultural products of the island are cotton, rice, cacao, +corn, cocoanuts, pepper, bananas, tobacco, vegetable dyes, coffee, sugar, +pineapples, and vanilla. Of all these I shall only pause to deal here with +the last four. + +Coffee and sugar are regarded by the Puerto Ricans as their most valuable +crops. The first takes six years to come into full bearing, and during this +time will cost an expense of about 162 pesos an acre, with a return in the +last year of 86 pesos an acre,--a net deficit for the full period of 76 +pesos. Afterward the expense should be about 66 pesos an acre, and the +return 90 pesos. Sugar requires a heavy investment at the start. A +plantation of 250 acres, together with the necessary buildings and +machinery, will call for about 52,500 pesos. The total cost of a crop, from +beginning to end, should be 152 pesos an acre, and the return about 170. + +A pineapple plantation, for the investor of limited means, ought to prove +profitable and encouraging. The first year of cultivation will produce a +crop, at a final cost of 40 pesos an acre, including the land-rent. The +return is put down at 200 pesos, leaving a gorgeous net profit of 160 +pesos. It would seem perhaps that under such circumstances it is odd that +there is not a more general raising of this fruit by the local planters; +but the reason for an apparent neglect of a golden opportunity lies in +the difficulties heretofore encountered in finding swift and adequate +transportation from field to market. With this handicap removed there is +little doubt that pineapple-growing will become a tempting industry. + +The vanilla bean, however, is king-pin of the list in the claim of profit +to be derived from its culture. It is said that the yearly cost of raising +the crop will be 94 pesos an acre, chiefly for manure and irrigation. And +the annual return for every acre is figured at 652 pesos,--a net profit +that is fairly dazzling. + +While all these details--which I have digressed so many times to give--do +not properly form a part of the story of our campaign, yet it is by +no means unusual for one who has put his hand into a grab-bag to look +carefully and well at the prize withdrawn. And that is what I have been +doing. + +The material result of General Schwan's campaign may be briefly summarized +thus: He marched his command ninety-two miles in eight days; fought two +successful engagements; expelled the Spanish forces from the entire western +part of Puerto Rico; captured and occupied nine towns; and took 362 +prisoners, including Colonel Villeneuve, a lieutenant-colonel, and four +other regular officers. In addition he seized 450 stands of arms, 145,000 +rounds of ammunition, and ten thousand dollars in silver coin. His loss was +1 killed and 16 wounded against a total of 20 killed and 50 wounded on the +side of the enemy. + +On August 27 the general issued a farewell order to his brigade, from which +I briefly quote:-- + +"On relinquishing his command to return to the United States, the +brigadier-general commanding desires to congratulate, and to return his +heartfelt thanks to, the officers and soldiers of the regular brigade for +their achievements and excellent conduct during the last eighteen days.... +Our troops have continued to hold their advanced positions and outposts +until now, when, peace being assured, all but a small fraction have been +brought to comparatively comfortable barracks near this city. The hardships +endured on the march and at these outposts have been great.... But these +hardships have been cheerfully borne by officers and men. Not a murmur has +been heard, despite the fact that nearly one-fourth of the strength of most +organizations is on sick-report, their ailments being directly caused by +the exposure incident to this campaign. + +"Less than three weeks have been occupied by the campaign, yet a bond of +sympathy between officers and soldiers has been established that years of +peace could not have engendered." + +On the following morning, accompanied by Lieutenant G.T. Summerlin, his +aide-de-camp, General Schwan left Mayaguez for Ponce, where he boarded the +transport "Chester," and returned to the United States. + +The campaign of the Independent Regular Brigade was thus brought to an +official end. + + + +A BRIEF SKETCH OF THE LIFE OF BRIGADIER-GENERAL SCHWAN. + + +Theodore Schwan was born in Germany, July 9, 1841. He received his earlier +education in the preparatory schools of his native land, but came to the +United States when he was about sixteen years old. He enlisted as a +private in the Tenth Infantry on June 12, 1857; and served successfully +as corporal, sergeant, first sergeant, and quartermaster-sergeant until +October 31, 1863, when he received his commission. He was made a first +lieutenant, Tenth Infantry, April 9, 1864; regimental quartermaster in +December, 1864; a captain, March 14, 1866; a major, Eleventh Infantry, +and assistant adjutant-general, July 6, 1886; a lieutenant-colonel and +assistant adjutant-general, February 19, 1897; a colonel and assistant +adjutant-general, May 18, 1898. Two weeks before his last promotion in +the regular army he was appointed brigadier-general of volunteers, and in +accordance with the Act of Congress, approved March 2, 1899, he will retain +that rank until July 1, 1901. He was brevetted several times during the +War of the Rebellion, and his whole military career, covering a period of +forty-two years, is absolutely devoid of blemish. + + + +APPENDIX + + +I + +The following officers received distinguished mention in General Schwan's +reports, for service rendered under fire during the campaign in western +Puerto Rico:-- + + Lieutenant-Colonel Burke, Eleventh Infantry. + [A] Major Gilbreath, Eleventh Infantry. + Captain P.M.B. Travis, Eleventh Infantry. + Captain R.W. Hoyt, Eleventh Infantry. + Captain A.L. Myer, Eleventh Infantry. + Captain Penrose, Eleventh Infantry. + Captain Macomb, Fifth Cavalry. + Acting Assistant Surgeon Savage. + Lieutenant Odon Gurvoits, Eleventh Infantry. + Lieutenant T.F. Maginnis, Eleventh Infantry. + Lieutenant Alexander, Eleventh Infantry. + Lieutenant Wells, Eleventh Infantry. + Lieutenant W.S. Valentine, Fifth Cavalry. + Lieutenant Rogers F. Gardner, Third Artillery. + +[Footnote A: Died of apoplexy on August 22, 1898, while in camp near Las +Marias.] + +In addition to those named above, special and valuable efficiency was +displayed by Major E.A. Root, engineer; Major H.H. Benham, ordnance; Major +Egan, brigade-surgeon; Captain Buchanan, Collector-of-the-Port at Mayaguez; +Captain Davison, brigade-quartermaster; Captain Hutcheson, assistant +adjutant-general; and Captain Elkins,[A] Lieutenant Byron, and Lieutenant +Summerlin, aides-de-camp. + +[Footnote A: Wounded at battle of Hormigueros.] + + +II + +In connection with the present writer's expressed opinion regarding the +relative practical value of regulars and volunteers in modern warfare, the +following excerpt from the Chicago _Record_ of November 3, 1898, is worth +reading. + +Captain Avid Wester, the Swedish officer who accompanied the American army +in Cuba, in order to study the war, has just returned to Sweden. During +his stay in Gothenburg he was interviewed, and he seems now to have a more +sympathetic view of the Americans--the volunteers excepted--than former +reports indicated. Captain Wester greatly praised the treatment he had +received from all the American officers, and the bravery of the Americans +in the regular army. "Of the 18,000 men under the command of General +Shafter," he says, "only 4,000 were volunteers or militiamen; the rest +consisted of regulars, which had had an average service of six years on the +borders of the Indian territory. They were very good and well-disciplined +soldiers, who went into battle with complete disregard of death. The +militia regiments, however, could not be got within range of the Spanish +bullets, and all the stories about the heroism of volunteers are untrue. +The only volunteers who distinguished themselves were the 'rough riders,' +who, in spite of their name, fought on foot, but these men were not a +militia regiment. The troop consisted of cowboys and adventurers, who cared +neither for life nor death, but rushed blindly into battle. Brave fellows +withal." After praising the bravery of the Spaniards and the accuracy of +their fire, Captain Wester expresses the belief that with modern rifles in +use it is of the greatest importance to have well-trained soldiers, who +in the heat of battle retain their coolness and listen to their officers' +directions and commands,--in a word, soldiers who retain good firing +discipline. This, he says, cannot be expected of men with short time of +training, on whom the din of battle often has so paralyzing an effect that +the soldier can neither hear nor see. + + +III + +The question concerning the quality of the beef served as a ration to our +troops during the recent war--in Cuba and Puerto Rico, and aboard the +transports--has already been pretty thoroughly answered, one way or the +other. Yet, though the topic is worn nearly threadbare and admittedly has +nothing in particular to do with General Schwan's campaign, I venture to +make, in this place, a personal contribution to the discussion in the form +of an extract from a letter, written by me from Mayaguez on September 15, +1898. + +Our rations [on the transport "Comanche"] consisted of hard tack, coffee, +canned baked-beans, canned tomatoes, and canned "roast beef." Before we +arrived at Key West the baked-beans had all been eaten and the water in the +tanks had gone rotten--we carried no condenser--so that we were reduced to +the rather monotonous diet of tomatoes for breakfast, tomatoes and canned +roast beef for dinner, and tomatoes again for supper; with a full allowance +of coffee and hard tack at all three meals. + +Anybody will be able to understand that we were pretty hungry at the end of +the second day. We were thirsty too--I paid as much as fifty cents for a +glass of ice-water from the cabin--but I will skip the mass of details. We +had seen the piles of neat cans, labelled "roast beef," stacked up on the +dock at Port Tampa, and we were impatient for the first mess-call that +made us acquainted with the contents of those cans. I regret that I cannot +adequately describe to you the appearance of the stuff. I will simply say +that it looked filthy, was covered with a sort of slime, and emitted a +nauseous odor. It was very hard to even gaze at it and remain unmoved, +but we did more than that--we tried to eat it. I managed to swallow three +mouthfuls and immediately became wretchedly sick. The example seemed to be +popular. + +On the succeeding day we were each given an unopened can of the meat, which +was supposed to last us for twenty-four hours. Most of the men threw their +portions overboard at once; a few packed away the "corpse"--as we already +called it--for purposes of trade with the unsophisticated Cubans; and I +kept my can as a souvenir. I did not, however, keep it long; for, chancing +to drop it upon the deck, the contents exploded with a distinct report, +startling me not a little and covering my person with the débris. At the +time I thought this experience was going to be altogether unique, but I +discovered afterward that the same thing happened in a great many other +instances. + +Having abandoned the beef, we were forced to subsist on hard tack and +tomatoes for the rest of the voyage, and hailed with joy our anchorage at +Daiquiri. But we were too previous. During our ten days' stay in Cuba we +found the "corpse" still waiting for us in the mess, and we carried the +ghastly burden along when we finally steamed away for Puerto Rico. + +We landed at Guanica on the 25th of July, which meant that we had been +half-starved for twenty-two days. We had forgotten the "Maine" and would +have greeted Weyler himself with a glad sweet smile, had he come bearing in +his hands food fit for a human being. Once more disembarked, we lost sight +of the canned roast beef for good--save at extremely rare intervals while +on the march. We found no difficulty in eating the beef obtained from +Puerto Rican steers, although it was tough and bloodless; and we received +salt pork often enough to furnish variety. + +After the cessation of hostilities we began to get American beef instead of +the native article, and, while it was by no means so impossible a food as +its canned cousin, it certainly could not be called delicious. It smelled +badly before it was cooked, was rigid and stringy when served, and had a +rank taste, like--well like nothing else on earth. Our sick-list doubled at +this time. + + +IV + +A list of the killed and wounded on the American side, at the battle near +Hormigueros, Puerto Rico, on the 10th of August, 1898. + +_Killed_. + +Fred Fenneberg, private in Company "D," Eleventh Infantry. + +_Wounded_. + +Lieutenant J.C. Byron, Eighth United States Cavalry, R.D.C. + +John Bruning, corporal in Light Battery "D," Fifth Artillery. + +George Curtis, private in Light Battery "D," Fifth Artillery. + +Samuel G. Frye, private in Light Battery "D," Fifth Artillery. + +Willard H. Wheeler, sergeant in Company "A," Eleventh Infantry. + +Joseph P. Ryan, corporal in Company "A," Eleventh Infantry. + +Arthur Sparks, private in Company "C," Eleventh Infantry. + +John L. Johnson, corporal in Company "D," Eleventh Infantry. + +J.A. Sanders, private in Company "D," Eleventh Infantry. + +Harry E. Arrick, private in Company "E," Eleventh Infantry. + +Henry Gerrick, private in Company "E," Eleventh Infantry. + +Paul F. Mitzkie, private in Company "E," Eleventh Infantry. + +William Rossiter, private in Company "G," Eleventh Infantry. + +Lemuel P. Cobb, private in Company "I," Eleventh Infantry. + +D.J. Graves, private in Company "M," Eleventh Infantry. + +Amos Wilkie, corporal in Company "M," Eleventh Infantry. + +_Injured_. + +Frank Muller, private in Company "E," Eleventh Infantry. + +Augustus H. Ryan, private in Company "F," Eleventh Infantry. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10439 *** diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2cd3a12 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #10439 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/10439) diff --git a/old/10439-8.txt b/old/10439-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4cbd7fb --- /dev/null +++ b/old/10439-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2373 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, From Yauco to Las Marias, by Karl Stephen +Herrman + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + + + + +Title: From Yauco to Las Marias + +Author: Karl Stephen Herrman + +Release Date: December 12, 2003 [eBook #10439] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8858-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FROM YAUCO TO LAS MARIAS*** + + +E-text prepared by Lazar Liveanu and Project Gutenberg Distributed +Proofreaders + + + +FROM YAUCO TO LAS MARIAS + +A Recent Campaign in Puerto Rico by the Independent Regular Brigade +under the command of BRIG. GENERAL SCHWAN + +by + +KARL STEPHEN HERRMAN + + + + + + +[Illustration: Theodore Schwan, Brigadier-General U.S. Volunteers.] + + + + +TO ROBERT SMITH COBB + +MY BROTHER LORD IN CERTAIN ISLES OF FRIENDSHIP AND OWNER OF PRECIOUS CARGO +IN MY SHIP OF DREAMS + + + +CONTENTS + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +CHAPTER I + +The Independent Regular Brigade + +Place of meeting--Forces comprised by the command--Why we were not like the +Volunteers--Characteristics of the professional soldier--Sketches of the +more important officers--What we were ordered to do. + + +CHAPTER II + +The First Day's March + +Disposition of our column--The road to Sabana Grande--The infantrymen's +burden--Wayside hospitality--Hard tack and repartee--Into camp and under +blankets--Arrival of Macomb's troop--A smoke-talk. + + +CHAPTER III + +The People of Puerto Rico + +Their attitude toward the invading Americans--The proclamation of General +Miles--Justice and the private soldier--Depravity of the native masses--Men +and women of the better class--Local attributes of life--A hint to the +weary. + + +CHAPTER IV + +The Second Day Begins + +We march to San German--Removal of the sick from the ambulances--An +approaching Spanish force--Our scouts and their leader--Concerning Señor +Fijardo--Visible effects of imminent battle--Something about the town of +San German. + + +CHAPTER V + +The Engagement at Hormigueros + +Topography of the battlefield--Macomb's cavalry fired into by Spanish +skirmishers--Our advance-guard comes into contact with the foe--General +Schwan reaches the firing line--The main body arrives and joins in +the fray--Subsequent manoeuvres of our column--The Spanish retreat--A +computation of losses. + + +CHAPTER VI + +The Second Day Ends + +A personal résumé of the fight--Lack of melodramatic accompaniments--A lost +chance of glory--Another neglected opportunity--A glimpse of the flag--Once +more into camp. + + +CHAPTER VII + +The Occupation of Mayaguez + +We enter the city in triumph--An enthusiastic reception--A pretty girl +and the star-spangled banner--Other memorable incidents--Our rags and +tatters--A description of Mayaguez--We pitch our tents in a swamp--The +First Kentucky Volunteers. + + +CHAPTER VIII + +The Engagement at Las Marias + +Difficulties encountered in locating the retreating enemy--Final +determination upon pursuit--Lieutenant-Colonel Burke sets forth--Discovery +of Spanish troops near Las Marias--A one-sided encounter--Unwelcome +notification of truce--The rest of the brigade comes up--Feeding the +prisoners--Our disappointment. + + +CHAPTER IX + +The Territory Won + +General Schwan returns to Mayaguez--Business and pleasure--A custom +we abolished--Extent of the district captured by our brigade +--Aguadilla--Facilities for transportation--Labor and the +laborer--The cost of living--Rents and real estate--Skilled workmen--A word +about investments. + + +CHAPTER X + +The End of the Campaign + +Arrival of the mail-steamer--The soldier-boy and his letters--The greater +part of the brigade is quartered in Mayaguez--Agriculture in Puerto +Rico--Material result of our campaign--A farewell order--General Schwan +departs for the United States. + + +A Brief Sketch of the Life of Brigadier-General Schwan + + +APPENDIX + + +THE ILLUSTRATIONS + +Theodore Schwan, Brigadier-General U.S. Volunteers +Statue of Columbus, Mayaguez +American Cavalry entering Mayaguez on the 11th of August +The Public Fountain in Aguadilla, a Favorite Rendezvous + for Runaway Lovers +Plaza Principal, Mayaguez. Town Hall in Background +Spanish Prisoners who were brought from Las Marias to Mayaguez +Plaza Principal, Mayaguez. A Public Celebration of the New Flag's Advent, + under the Auspices of the Local School-teachers and their Pupils +The Plaza of San German on Market-day +Lower Quarter of Mayaguez +A Mid-section of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez +Positions occupied by Spanish Soldiers in the Skirmish at Hormigueros +Railroad from Mayaguez to Aguadilla +The Theatre, Mayaguez +Custom-house at Mayaguez occupied by General Schwan as Brigade + Headquarters +Road from Mayaguez to Añasco +Lower End of the Calle de Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez +Guenar Bridge, Mayaguez +Upper End of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez +The Town of Sabana Grande +Witch River, near Cabo Rojo +American Camp at Mayaguez +Plaza Mercado, Mayaguez +Mouth of the Mayaguez River +A Bit of Yauco +Wooden Dock at Mayaguez. In the Offing can be seen the German Man-of-war + "Geier" +"Eleventh of August" Street +The Officers of the Alphonso XIII Regiment of Cazadores, taken a few days + before the Fight with the American Troops at Hormigueros +The Military Hospital, Mayaguez +Part of the Village of Maricao +Infantry Barracks, Mayaguez +The Rosario River, near Hormigueros +A Street in San German +Tobacco Plantation (cutting leaves), Mayaguez +The Plaza Principal in Mayaguez looking toward the Church +A Ruined Church along our Line of March +A Puerto Rican Laundry +Watering the Artillery Horses at Yauco +A Native Bull-team +On the Road to Lares +The Best Outfit in our Wagon Train +"Promenade of the Fleas" in Yauco +When only One Man gets a Letter +The "Weary Travellers' Spring," near Añasco +A Crude Sugar Mill near Las Marias +A very Popular Spot +Two Knights and a Pawn + + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +I have ventured to set down in this place the following bald and brief +items of our recent history, not because I doubt an already existing common +knowledge of their substance, but simply because they serve to illuminate +and give finish to the succeeding narrative. + +Major-General Miles sailed from Guantanamo, Cuba, on the 21st of July, +1898; and landed at Guanica, Puerto Rico, on the 25th of the same month. +The troops sailing with him numbered 3,554 officers and men, mainly +composed of volunteers from Massachusetts, Illinois, and the District +of Columbia, with a complement of regulars in five batteries of light +artillery, thirty-four privates from the battalion of engineers, and +detachments of recruits, signal, and hospital corps. + +On August 1st he was re-enforced by General Schwan's brigade of the Fourth +Army Corps and part of General Wilson's division of the First Corps, +raising his numerical strength to 9,641 officers and men. The Spanish +forces in Puerto Rico at that time numbered some 18,000, about evenly +divided between regulars and volunteers, and scattered advantageously over +3,700 square miles of territory. By the end of August the American strength +had nearly doubled. + +In the brief campaign that followed, a large part of the island was +captured by the United States forces, and the positions of all the Spanish +garrisons, except that at San Juan, were made untenable. There were +altogether six engagements,--at Guanica Road, Guayamo (2), Coamo, +Hormigueros, Aibonito, and Las Marias,--with a total loss to the Spaniards +of about 450 killed and wounded, while the American casualties of the same +nature amounted to 43. + +General Miles, in his scheme of operations, intended that three columns +of our troops--each composed of infantry, cavalry, artillery, and their +adjuncts--should march through the eastern, western, and central parts of +the island, respectively, diverging at Ponce and coalescing before San +Juan. The entire success of this plan was prevented only by the arrival of +the order to suspend hostilities, on the 13th of August. + +The column marching east--known as the First Division, First Army +Corps--was commanded by Major-General James H. Wilson, and took part in +three engagements. The column sent through the interior--known as the +Provisional Division--was commanded by Brigadier-General Guy V. Henry, and +met no opposition of moment. + +The third column, called the Independent Regular Brigade, and directed +to proceed through the western section of the island, was commanded by +Brigadier-General Theodore Schwan, and had two engagements with the +Alphonso XIII Regiment of Cazadores. + +It is the story of General Schwan's campaign that I am about to relate. + + + + + +CHAPTER I + +The Independent Regular Brigade + +_Place of meeting_--_Forces comprised by the command_--_Why we were +not like the Volunteers_--_Characteristics of the professional +soldier_--_Sketches of the more important officers_--_What we were ordered +to do_. + + +Yauco, the place selected by General Miles as a rendezvous for the troops +of the Independent Regular Brigade, is a town of about 15,000 inhabitants, +and some six miles distant from Guanica. It is connected both by rail and +wagon-road with Ponce, the largest city on the island, and is noted for its +Spanish proclivities, fine climate, excellent running water, and setting of +mountains--luxuriantly green throughout the year. + +Here were assembled on the evening of Aug. 8, 1898, all the forces assigned +to General Schwan, with the exception of Troop "A," Fifth Cavalry, which +did not appear until some thirty hours later. The command was composed of +the Eleventh Infantry, Light Battery "D" of the Fifth Artillery, Light +Battery "C" of the Third Artillery, and the troop of cavalry already +mentioned,--all regulars, and as resolute and picturesque a set of men as +ever wore the uniform of war. + + * * * * * + +Because we had no Volunteers with us, we were not granted even one little +word-spattering newspaper scribe, and so relinquished at the outset any +fugitive hopes of glory that otherwise might have been entertained. We were +out for business,--hard marching, hard living, hard fighting,--and the +opening vista was fringed with gore. We were none of us the darlings of any +particular State, nor the precious offspring of a peripatetic statesman +with a practised pull. We were at no time decimated by disease through +ignorant or insubordinate disregard of the primary principles of hygiene. +We didn't write long wailing letters home because we were obliged to sleep +on the damp ground, and had neither hot rolls, chocolate, nor marmalade for +breakfast. We were ragged, hungry, tough, and faithful. In other words, we +were regular army men, and, most distinctly, _not_ Volunteers. + +[Illustration: Statue of Columbus, Mayaguez.] + +There is a personality peculiar to the professional soldier, even though +he be but a half-fledged recruit, that defies analysis and baffles +description. He is of course built from the same clay as his brother of the +Volunteers; but the latter is a tin god, and the former is a devil. Yet the +difference does not spring from anything more fundamental than environment, +and therein lies the solace of the other fellow. Putting aside all odious +comparisons and limiting myself to a view of the regular army man as I know +him, I can simply say that in the eight months during which I underwent +in his company hard knocks and privations without number I could not have +found a more truly satisfactory comrade and friend. He doesn't, on the +average, know much about books; nor did he ever hear of the Etruscan +Inscriptions or the Pyramidal Policy of the Ancient Egyptians. He takes a +grim delight in smashing the English language into microscopic atoms at a +single blow. He is more fond of women, horses, and prize-fighting than is +good for him. He will steal when he is hungry, lie to save his skin, curse +most terribly on trifling provocation, and spend, to his last sou markee, +his hard-won wage on adulterated drink. + + "He's a devil an' a ostrich + an' a orphan-child in one." + +But he will stand his ground in action while there is ground to stand on; +he will throw his life away at a moment's notice for the flag, or a chosen +comrade, or a worthless girl; he will march and starve and thirst world +without end if he has a leader who holds his confidence; and he is, on the +whole, a rather fine specimen of the true American--being usually Irish or +German. + +[Illustration: American Cavalry entering Mayaguez on the 11th of +August.] + +Our brigade commander, General Theodore Schwan--silent, upright, +tall, and spare--was regarded with affection and respect by every one who +came into personal contact with him, officer and man alike. He was shrewd, +clever, and distinguished, but never too busy or elevated to listen to the +humblest soldier from the ranks, and from first to last a gentleman. Of his +staff it is the highest praise to say that they were in every way worthy of +their chief. Bluff Captain Davison, gruff Captain Hutcheson, studious Major +Root, saturnine Major Egan, wounded Lieutenant Byron, patient Lieutenant +Poore, dashing Captain Elkins, and courteous Lieutenant Summerlin, I salute +you all in the most military manner of the soldier dismounted! You were my +friends in need, you lent me money, you gave me fatherly counsel and passes +of freedom to the shimmering tropic dawn--and I shall not forget. + +At the head of the Eleventh Infantry was Colonel I.D. DeRussy, who, with +his ministerial drawl and dry wit, was a sharp contrast to his blunt, +impetuous, and fiery second in command, Lieutenant-Colonel Burke. But, so +far as I am aware, perpetual harmony reigned between them; and both were +beloved by their men. The battalion of artillery was commanded by Captain +Frank Thorp of Light Battery "D," my own outfit. He was best known in the +ranks as "Side-wheeler," from a peculiarity of gait, and, though well on +in years, was at all times gallant, courageous, and capable. A stiff +disciplinarian, he kept his guardhouse well filled from week to week; but +he was as quick to reward as punish, when warranted by circumstances. It +is worthy of note that although he took each day enough medicine to lay an +ordinary man on his back, or in an early grave, yet he was well and fit +from start to finish. + +Captain Macomb of the Fifth Cavalry is not an easy man to describe in cold +ink. Handsome, stalwart, and grave; black-haired, black-eyed, a scarf of +yellow knotted at his throat,--he was Custer without the vanity or Lancelot +devoid a Guinevere. + +[Illustration: The Public Fountain in Aguadilla, a Favorite Rendezvous for +Runaway Lovers.] + +When he clattered through the many quaint little towns abutting on our line +of march, he was followed by a billow of sighs from behind the half-closed +lattices, though I dare say he knew nothing about it; for indeed he was +no heart-breaker, but a true soldier. I recommend him to either Rudyard +Kipling or Richard Harding Davis. + +Said General Miles, in a letter of instruction to General Schwan under date +of August 6, 1898:-- + +"You will drive out or capture all Spanish troops in the western portion +of Puerto Rico. You will take all necessary precautions and exercise great +care against being surprised or ambushed by the enemy, and will make the +movement as rapidly as possible, at the same time exercising your best +judgment in the care of your command, to accomplish the object of your +expedition." + +And this programme we were now ready to carry out. + + + +CHAPTER II + +The First Day's March + +_Disposition of our column_--_The road to Sabana Grande_--_The +infantrymen's burden_--_Wayside hospitality_--_Hard tack and +repartee_--_Into camp and under blankets_--_Arrival of Macomb's troop_--_A +smoke-talk._ + +[Illustration: Plaza Principal, Mayaguez. Town Hall in background.] + + +The disposition and arrangement of our forces on the first day's march can +best be shown by the following document:-- + +HEADQUARTERS INDEPENDENT BRIGADE (REGULARS), CAMP AT YAUCO, PUERTO RICO, +Aug. 8, 1898. + +GENERAL ORDERS No. 13. + +This command will move out on the road to Sabana Grande at ten o'clock +tomorrow morning. It will observe the following rules and order of march:-- + +1. Macomb's troop of cavalry will act as a screen, and will march about two +miles in advance of the point of the advance-guard. The extent of the front +to be covered by, and the disposition of the cavalry, will depend upon +the nature of the country, and will be left to the judgment of the troop +commander. He will communicate freely by means of orderlies with the +commander of the advance-guard, who will at once transmit all messages to +the commanding general. Three mounted orderlies to be furnished by the +troop, will march with the advance-guard. + +2. Two companies of infantry, one platoon of artillery, and two Gatling +guns will constitute the advance-guard. A pioneer detachment, consisting of +one non-commissioned officer and eight men, to be carefully selected from +the advance-guard, will march with the reserve, and will be under the +direction of the engineer officer of the brigade. The requisite tools +will be carried on a cart. Upon arriving in camp, the advance-guard will +immediately establish the outpost. + +3. The main body will consist of nine companies of infantry, one battery +and two platoons of artillery, and two Gatling guns. + +4. The trains following the main body will be under the direction of the +brigade quartermaster, and their order of march will be:-- + + Hospital train. + Ammunition column. + Supply and baggage wagons. + +The rear-guard will be composed of one company of infantry. A detachment +from it will protect exposed flanks of the train. If horses can be procured +for them, the commanders of the advance and rear guards will be mounted. + +The above disposition for each day's march will be conformed to, unless +otherwise ordered. + +By command of Brigadier-General Schwan. + +GROTE HUTCHESON, _Captain and Assistant Adjutant-General._ + +[Illustration: Spanish Prisoners who were brought from Las Marias to +Mayaguez.] + +As Captain Macomb's cavalry had not arrived at the hour appointed for our +start, we set off without him. And in fact there was little need of his +services on that day, our march being through a section of the island +already cleared of Spanish troops, and exceedingly slow and wearisome, +besides. + +The route from Yauco to Sabana Grande lies for some two miles along the +level and creditable road leading to Guanica, suddenly going off at right +angles just beyond a picturesque sugar-mill into as uneven, crooked, and +hilly a highway as can well be imagined. + +I cannot tell you in adequate language just how the tropical sun punishes +the unacclimated Northerner, especially if he be a foot-soldier tramping +along in a blinding dust, parched of throat, empty of belly, and loaded +down with a pack that would make a quartermaster's mule to fake the +glanders. If you have been there, it needs no words of mine to galvanize +your memory; and, if you have not, you cannot understand. This matter of +the soldier's pack and what to do with it became a subject of serious +consideration during the recent war, in both Cuba and Puerto Rico. On the +march, in the charge or pursuit or retreat, it is a senseless, clogging, +spirit-shackling incubus, a rank absurdity, and an utter impossibility. As +a result, after three days of active campaign the infantryman is seen gayly +stalking along with no burden save his rifle, ammunition-belt, and a wisp +of gray blanket, which seems to me to be a fatuous and footless condition +of affairs that might well be quickly remedied for the benefit of all +concerned. + +[Illustration: Plaza Principal, Mayaguez. A Public Celebration of the New +Flag's Advent, under the Auspices of the Local School-teachers and their +Pupils.] + +As we passed the occasional little hacienda, set in its grove of cocoanut +palms or orange-trees, dusky and wrinkled women came forth from the doors, +bearing upon their heads huge jars, from which we filled our ever-parched +canteens with cool, sweet water. They also brought us mangoes and other +native fruits, and queer cigars of most abominable flavor. Because we were +forbidden to eat of the fruit, we stuffed ourselves with it, and looked for +more. From time to time a weary or sick soldier would lay himself down by +the roadside, to be picked up later on by an ambulance; but, as the day +wore on, the intervals of rest grew longer and more frequent. We had but +one opportunity to water the sweating horses of the artillery, and then it +was a painful matter of buckets. We munched hard-tack for our noonday meal, +and made merry over it, talking of the day when we should go home and feast +on beans and beefsteak and countless other things of which the heathen +wot not. We were intensely voluble or silent by turns, and invented new +nicknames for each other, which were so apt, spite of being touched with +bitterness, that they stuck forevermore. And never, so far as I can +remember, did any one mention the "Maine" or Cuba Libre. + +At last, shortly after sunset, we descended a long, steep hillside, and +went into camp in the valley of the Rio Grande, just without the gates of a +small town, uninteresting in character, and Sabana Grande by name. We had +marched only twelve miles, but were hungry, limp, and ugly. So, having +crammed down a hasty supper of nothing in particular, we made short shift +of absent tents, and, pulling our blankets to our chins, lay face upward +to the stars that made us homesick, and slept the sleep of tired little +children. + +I was wakened in the middle of the night by a distant jangle of sabres and +rattle of hooves. Seeing our officer of the day, Lieutenant R.E. Callan, +standing not far away and looming gigantic against the sky, I asked him the +meaning of the noise; and he replied that it was Captain Macomb's troop +of cavalry just coming in. I lit my pipe and talked for a while with the +lieutenant of other things than war--Maude Adams and John Drew, football, +ambition, and books--till finally he went away to make his rounds. My pipe +went out, and I dreamed of stranger happenings than my longest thoughts +could fashion in the glare of day. And, when I woke again, reveille was +soaring from post to post. + +[Illustration: The Plaza of San German on Market-day.] + + + +CHAPTER III + +The People of Puerto Rico + +_Their attitude toward the invading Americans_--_The proclamation of +General Miles_--_justice and the private soldier_--_Depravity of the +native masses_--_Men and women of the better class_--_Local attributes of +life_--_A hint to the weary._ + + +Before proceeding further with the story of our advance, it may interest +you to know what manner of people we found the Puerto Ricans to be, and how +they behaved toward us who came to them as dogs of war. + +When we were first on the island, there is no doubt that the mass of the +population regarded us with acute distrust, if not with dislike and fear. +But the prompt measures taken by General Miles to disabuse their minds of +any preconceived ideas of ensuing rape, robbery, or desecration, did +much to soothe the more ignorant and childish of the natives, while the +intelligent and educated class needed no further assurance than that +contained in the proclamation issued by the commanding general from Ponce +on the 28th of July, which was as follows:-- + +TO THE INHABITANTS OF PUERTO RICO: + +In the prosecution of the war against the kingdom of Spain by the people +of the United States, in the cause of liberty, justice, and humanity, its +military forces have come to occupy the island of Puerto Rico. They come +bearing the banner of freedom, inspired by a noble purpose to seek the +enemies of our country and yours, and to destroy or capture all who are in +armed resistance. They bring you the fostering arm of a free people, whose +greatest power is in its justice and humanity to all those living within +its fold. Hence the first effect of this occupation will be the immediate +release from your former relations, and it is hoped a cheerful acceptance +of the government of the United States. The chief object of the American +military forces will be to overthrow the armed authority of Spain, and to +give the people of your beautiful island the largest measure of liberty +consistent with this occupation. We have not come to make war upon the +people of a country that for centuries has been oppressed, but, on the +contrary, to bring you protection, not only to yourselves, but to your +property; to promote your prosperity, and bestow upon you the immunities +and blessings of the liberal institutions of our government. It is not our +purpose to interfere with any existing laws and customs that are wholesome +and beneficial to your people so long as they conform to the rules of +military administration of order and justice. This is not a war of +devastation, but one to give all within the control of its military and +naval forces the advantages and blessings of enlightened civilization. + +NELSON A. MILES, + +_Major-General, Commanding United States Army_. + +[Illustration: Lower Quarter of Mayaguez.] + +The promises set forth in this document were kept to the letter. Indeed, +Justice sat up so straight for the people of Puerto Rico that she often +toppled over backward and crushed the American soldier. To steal anything, +from a kiss to a cow, was almost a capital offence; while houses and +churches might have been lined with gold and jasper, or infected with the +small-pox, so stringently were we kept out of them--at least during the +hostile period. + +This was all a mighty good thing for somebody, no doubt, but it detracted +in large chunks from the glamour of war for the soldier-boy; and I fear +that the majority of us felt hurt, if not sorely cheated. Nor is it at +all certain that the average inhabitant of Puerto Rico is worth coddling, +protection, prosperity, "and the immunities and blessings" accorded him by +his new rulers. A thick, stout cudgel or a bright, sharp axe will be more +effective than honeyed words in helping him cheerfully to assimilate new +ideas; though no one will believe it here at home until the hurrah is all +over and some of the truth gets into general circulation. + +[Illustration: A Mid-section of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez.] + +About one-sixth of the population in this island--the educated class, and +chiefly of pure Spanish blood--can be set down as valuable acquisitions to +our citizenship and the peer, if not the superior, of most Americans in +chivalry, domesticity, fidelity, and culture. Of the rest, perhaps one-half +can be moulded by a firm hand into something approaching decency; but the +remainder are going to give us a great deal of trouble. They are ignorant, +filthy, untruthful, lazy, treacherous, murderous, brutal, and black Spain +has kept her hand at their throats for many weary years, and the only thing +that has saved them from being throttled is the powerful influence in +their discipline effected by the Roman Catholic Church. When our zealous +missionaries have succeeded in leading them into the confines of other +creeds, we shall have all the excitement we want in Puerto Rico, and the +part of our army stationed there will have no lack of exercise. + +Despite a common belief to the contrary, the color-line is drawn as +rigidly in Puerto Rico as it is in Kentucky. The people having nothing but +Castilian blood in their veins are as proud as Virtue; and, while politics +and business see a certain mingling of skin-colors, the mixture ceases to +exist across the threshold of home. No true Spaniard would permit himself +to sing of his "coal-black lady" or his "cute little yallar gal"; and, if +he did, he would be ostracized. + +The women are all very pretty or extremely ugly, and never simply plain. +The girls of the better class are brought up from babyhood under a constant +surveillance that knows no laxity until after marriage, and does not +altogether cease even then. The growing bud is taught to play the piano or +guitar, to embroider, to sing a little, to dance a little less, to speak +and read French, to powder her face with art, and to walk like a very +queen. She is usually married before she is seventeen, especially if her +father has money; and, until the day of her death, she never sees a modern +newspaper, never goes slumming, and never soils her gentle hands with work +of any degree. She is apt to love her husband devotedly, and does not think +her career fitly rounded until she is a mother. + +[Illustration: Positions occupied by Spanish Soldiers in the Skirmish at +Hormigueros.] + +The men of the same social footing are not so interesting--to me; but, +nevertheless, they possess many characteristics which claim attention and +deserve applause. They are never drunkards or wife-beaters; they don't drag +their business to the dinner-table and bed; they are not given to profane +speech; and they show greater interest in a sonnet than in the price of +pork. + +Life for both sexes and all grades in Puerto Rico is a rose, a kiss, and +a cigarette; song, laughter, and mañana. The island is, unequivocally, a +Paradise; and, if I remember rightly, dwellers in Paradise are not expected +to labor. These people amply fulfill the expectation. + +If you are sick of the worry and fret and jar of contemporaneous life here +at home, if you care for wide, sweet blue sky, eternal flowers, crystal +fountains, and gypsy music, then there is no better place for you to go +than to Puerto Rico. Take a bicycle and ride from Ponce around the island +or straight across to San Juan. You will find the roads, when there are +roads, superlatively excellent--particularly, if you do not mind an +occasional hill or sharp and sudden shower of rain. The larger cities all +have comfortable hotels; and, if you can afford to stay a month in Ponce, +Mayaguez, and San Juan, you will bring back fragrant memories that will +last you many years, or else you will send for your household gods and not +come back at all. And, if you don't ride a bicycle, you will be able to get +just as much pleasure from the toy railroad or wee horses when you travel +about from place to place, while the expense in either case will be +marvellously small. + +[Illustration: Railroad from Mayaguez to Aguadilla.] + + + +CHAPTER IV + +The Second Day Begins + +_We march to San German_--_Removal of the sick from the ambulances_--_An +approaching Spanish force_--_Our scouts and their leader_--_Concerning +Señor Fijardo_--_Visible effects of imminent battle_--_Something about the +town of San German_. + + +At eight o'clock in the morning on the 10th of August General Schwan's +brigade broke camp at Sabana Grande, and moved out on the road to San +German. The order of march differed from that of the day before only in the +presence of the troop of cavalry; and, the command being well rested, such +progress was made that the advance-guard reached the western side of San +German by noon--a good ten miles. The main body halted at the same hour +just outside the eastern entrance to the town, preparing a makeshift meal; +and at this point the sick, both on their own account and to make room in +the already crowded ambulances, were transferred to a private hospital. + +Before quitting San German, word was brought to the commanding general +that the entire Mayaguez garrison--some 1,362 men, chiefly regulars--was +marching in our direction, and would contest our advance. This information, +which proved to be correct, was at once communicated to the cavalry and +advance-guard, with orders to proceed with the greatest care, and to reduce +somewhat the distances ordinarily separating the different parts of the +column. + +Our source of information at this and other important times was a small +body of native scouts, numbering from 6 to 11 men and commanded by Lugo +Vina, a swarthy, wizened little Puerto Rican, who looked like General Gomez +and was taciturn as an Indian. He was considered by General Schwan to be +a man of great character and force. These scouts were well mounted, and +accompanied the brigade during its entire march, rendering most important +and efficient service. Three of them were arrested as spies by Spanish +officials between Las Marias and Mayaguez, and narrowly escaped being shot. +Eventually, they suffered nothing worse than imprisonment for several +months at San Juan; and, when the Evacuation Commission arranged for their +release, the United States reimbursed them to the full extent of their +wages for the period of their captivity. + +[Illustration: The Theatre, Mayaguez.] + +For the position of "alcade" or Mayor of the city of Mayaguez General +Schwan had a most difficult task. + +Someone thoroughly acquainted with the country and its people was wanted +and the selection fell to a prosperous planter residing within the +jurisdiction of Mayaguez--who had been--while not properly speaking, a +scout--was yet of considerable service to General Schwan as an interpreter +and guide up to the taking of Mayaguez. And because he had in addition been +exceedingly useful to our government before the actual breaking out of the +war, it was the wish of General Miles to confer upon him some suitable +reward immediately hostilities were suspended. General Schwan was prepared +to make this appointment, but so strong an opposition to the plan sprang +spontaneously from the inhabitants of the municipality most interested that +the appointment was held up. + +After a careful consideration of all the remonstrances and the strenuous +denial by the candidate of all and every allegation and his desire that +the promised honor be conferred upon him at once and without delay, it was +decided by General Schwan that in the face of so much opposition there was +nothing to do but to leave the residents of Mayaguez to decide the question +for themselves which they did in a most emphatic manner by refusing to +endorse the planter as a possibility, and presenting the name of Señor +Santiago Palmer as an acceptable party. + +This latter gentleman subsequently received the appointment, which was +satisfactory to all concerned. + + * * * * * + +The news that we were about to meet the Spanish forces face to face spread +rapidly among the men in the ranks, and aroused more enthusiasm than +terrapin and champagne could have done. Nobody any longer complained of the +heat; and, when it began to shower by fits and starts, nobody complained of +that, either. There were no more stragglers casting a windward eye to an +empty ambulance, nor growls because we pressed forward so rapidly. + +[Illustration: Custom-house at Mayaguez occupied by General Schwan as +Brigade Headquarters.] + +On that particular afternoon I was with the advance-guard; and, when we had +learned what we might expect before sunset, I studied the men about me with +a lively curiosity as to what effect the probability of immediate action +would have upon their visible emotions. + +Most of them, in our platoon of artillery at least, were boys, or little +more than boys, and almost without exception recruits of less than six +months' standing. It might have been expected that some degree of +gravity would have crept over them in the nearness of such unpleasant +possibilities; but never were they more gay and care-free, to all +appearance. Old jests already worn to shreds before we left the transport +at Guanica were once more revived, and capered with new life. Good-natured +irony flew from lip to lip in fantastic speculation as to probable +promotions in case all the officers should be killed at the first go-off. +The horses were told, individually and with great tenderness, just what +every man expected of them in the approaching crisis. And no comrade gave +another any instructions regarding mother or the girl at home, if he were +to bite the dust. For my own part, I found my mind so busy in going over +the cadences of a waltz I had danced with Somebody months before that I +could not bring myself to consider anything else but the beauty of its +refrain--or was it Her eyes?--try as I might. And, besides, it is not +profitable to shake hands with the devil until you are within reach of his +claw. + +[Illustration: Road from Mayaguez to Añasco.] + +The wagon-road leading from San German, over which we were now marching, +follows the valley of the Rio Grande, whose flats, varying in width from a +few hundred to a thousand yards, extend on each side to a chain of hills. +On either hand, in the immediate distance, are fields of sugar-cane, +bounded wherever they touch the road by wire fences. + +San German, the city through which we had just passed, is a place of nearly +10,000 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction numbering 30,600. It has three +very fine markets, a charity hospital, a seminary, good school buildings, +theatre, and casino. There is a railroad in construction, a post-office and +telegraph station. It is situated on a long, uneven hill, at the foot of +which lies the beautiful valley of the Juanjibos and Boqueròn Rivers, +which is made a veritable garden of enchantment by the orange, lemon, +and tamarind trees, together with various other plants, growing there in +abundance. The town was founded in 1511 by Captain Miguel Toro, and has +borne the title of city since 1877. The principal streets are called Luna +and Comercio. Its chief plaza is of notable size, its church is quite +regular in architecture, though of old construction, and the barracks of +the infantry and civil guard merit mention. Finally, it may be said that +its citizens have held a distinguished record for bravery and patriotism +ever since their decisive victory over the English forces in 1743. + +[Illustration: Lower End of the Calle de Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez.] + + + +CHAPTER V + +The Engagement at Hormigueros + +_Topography of the battlefield_--_Macomb's cavalry fired into by Spanish +skirmishers_--_Our advance-guard comes into contact with the foe_--_General +Schwan reaches the firing line_--_The main body arrives and joins in the +fray_--_Subsequent manoeuvres of our column_--_The Spanish retreat_--_A +computation of losses_. + + +The ensuing account of our fight with the Alphonso XIII Regiment of +Cazadores, on the 10th of August, is taken bodily from the official report +made by General Schwan to Major-General Miles under date of August 21:-- + +At a distance of about seven miles from Mayaguez the Rio Rosario, coming +from the east, parallels the road for nearly a mile, and empties into the +Rio Grande just south of Hormigueros. A sugar-mill stands just off the road +to the left; and a wagon-road branches off to the right, lined with hedge +and brush, and, crossing the Rosario on an iron bridge, leads to the hamlet +of Hormigueros, which is located on a side hill 1,500 yards from the main +road. The ground to the south of Hormigueros is covered with banana groves +and cane fields. At about 600 yards from where the Hormigueros road leaves +the main road the latter crosses the Rio Grande on a wooden bridge. Just +beyond this bridge the road to Cabo Rojo branches off to the south. From +this point, for nearly a mile, the main road passes through very low, flat +ground, cut up with deep furrows, which extend to the hills on the left +and the river on the right, and contain considerable water from recent +rains.... To resume the narrative of the day's events, near a point on the +main road where it is flanked by sugar-mills our cavalry was fired into, +though without effect, by the enemy's scouts, who were concealed behind a +hedge lining the Hormigueros road. They were easily dispersed. The infantry +and advance-guard having passed this point, the cavalry took the latter +road, and, crossing the Rosario, turned westward, and advanced under cover +of the railroad embankment until--taking every opportunity to damage the +enemy by its fire action--it reached a position beyond the covered wooden +bridge. + +[Illustration: Guenar Bridge, Mayaguez.] + +The brigade commander had left San German at the head of the main body. +When he heard the firing in his front, he sent word to commanding officers +to advance without further halt, and to keep their commands closed up. +Similar orders were sent to the train. He was informed and approved of +the route taken by the cavalry before reaching the bridge. He crossed the +latter about half-past three o'clock, being at that time about 500 yards in +advance of the main body. + +[Illustration: Upper End of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez.] + +A staff officer, who had been sent ahead to select camp, reported at this +time the ground west of the Cabo Rojo road as suitable for this purpose; +but owing to the suspected proximity of the enemy, whose position had not +yet been determined, it was decided to push ahead and beyond the iron +bridge. This, despite the fact that the men had now marched 13 miles and +were very tired. Once in possession of the bridge and the high ground to +the north of it, the command would occupy a strong position, which +would make it hard to check its advance on Mayaguez. Accordingly, the +advance-guard, under Captain Hoyt, moved forward, deploying its advance +party as skirmishers and its supports into a line of squads. In this +formation it continued until it had approached the bridge within about 400 +yards. At this juncture the enemy opened fire, at first individual fire. +The firing aimed at the advance-guard accelerated the march of the Eleventh +Infantry, which ... reported to the brigade commander, whose staff had +already commenced the demolition of the wire fences enclosing the road. +About the time that the brigade commander caused the deployment of +two companies to re-enforce the advance-guard,--Major Gilbraith in +command,--the enemy, from his position in the hills to the right front, +fired volleys at the main body through the interval separating the infantry +advance-guard from the cavalry, wounding a number of men, also an officer +and several horses of the brigade staff. Meanwhile the artillery battalion, +under the authority of the brigade commander, had taken up a position +to the left of the road. As the powder used by the enemy was absolutely +smokeless, and his position being, moreover, for the most part screened by +the trees along the Rio Grande, the question of the exact direction to be +given Major Gilbraith's detachment, and to the lines of battle about to be +formed from the main column, became a most perplexing one. Luckily, this +uncertainty did not last long, those of the enemy's bullets that struck the +ground near us solving the problem. Some slight confusion was caused by +a premature and hurried deployment of the remaining companies, which +interfered somewhat with the brigade commander's intention of forming two +additional lines, one to support the fighting line and the other to act +as a reserve, or as the changing conditions of the combat might render +expedient. But under his supervision this defective formation was soon +rectified, three companies being placed on the right and four companies on +the left of the road, the former, under Lieutenant-Colonel Burke, moving +forward in support of Major Gilbraith, and the latter being held back for a +time. Major Gilbraith and Colonel Burke's troops, being unable to cross the +creek, passed over the bridge that spans it by the left flank, the former's +companies having previously occupied a sheltered place in a ditch parallel +to and to the right of the main road. About this time the advance-guard, +one of the companies of which (Penrose's) had previously held for a short +time a knoll on the left of the road, moved forward and crossed the iron +bridge, the advance sections of the companies being led by Lieutenants +Alexander and Wells, respectively. After ... a time the entire +advance-guard, including the two Gatling guns, was concentrated on the +right of the railroad. It dislodged the enemy, and with the cavalry troop +to the right,--the troop had arrived about this time, after doing effective +service in threatening the enemy's flank,--and with the companies of Major +Gilbraith pushed forward in the centre, took up a position on the northern +line of hills. Here they were rejoined by the infantry and by two pieces +of artillery under First Lieutenant Archibald Campbell, which the brigade +commander had ordered forward, and which by their fire added to the +discomfiture of the enemy. The two Gatling guns under Lieutenant Maginnis, +with the advance, did good work, at first in a place near the creek where +the gunners had a good view of the enemy, and later on at the various +positions of the advance-guard. The two guns from the main body were also +operated from the crest of the hill during the latter stage of the combat. + +[Illustration: The Town of Sabana Grande.] + +The affair ended about six o'clock; and the troops, including all the +artillery, bivouacked on or near the position occupied by the enemy. The +wagon train afterward went into park between the railroad and the Rio +Grande, near enough to enable the men to get what was necessary for their +comfort during the night. Before darkness set in, Captain Macomb with his +troop was directed to make an effort to capture a railway train in plain +sight from the hill occupied by the command; but the train got under way +before he could reach it. It also escaped some shots that were fired at it +by the artillery. Although it had now become quite dark, the captain picked +up a few prisoners, including a wounded lieutenant. + +The difficulty in locating the enemy, and hence in giving proper direction +to the attack formations, has already been alluded to. Another cause of +anxiety during the earlier stage of the fight were the reports that came to +the brigade commander from different parts of the field, through officers, +that the enemy was getting around our right (or left) flank, and +endeavoring to capture our train. There may have been some foundation for +these reports; but, if so, the flanking parties were probably small, and +deterred from pursuing their design by our steady advance. It may be added +that the train was well guarded. + +[Illustration: Witch River, near Cabo Rojo.] + +Our loss embraced 1 enlisted man killed and 1 officer and 15 men wounded. +All the wounded, the surgeons say, will recover. The enemy's loss cannot be +definitely ascertained, but it is estimated at 15 killed alone. It probably +did not fall short of 50 in killed and wounded. + +The command continued its march at an early hour the following morning, the +advance-guard and the main body proceeding slowly and with great caution. +This extra care was unnecessary. Those of the enemy's forces that were held +in reserve (some of them not far from the city) had fled precipitately as +soon as they realized the extent of their defeat. + +In connection with the foregoing report I consider the subjoined document +as being of interest:-- + + HEADQUARTERS UNITED STATES MILITARY + EXPEDITION IN CAMP AT MAYAGUEZ, + PUERTO RICO, Aug. 12, 1898. + + GENERAL ORDERS + No. 14. + +The brigadier-general commanding desires to convey to the officers and +soldiers of his command his thanks for their excellent conduct in the +engagement they had on the 10th instant, near the town of Hormigueros, with +the Spanish forces in that vicinity. Concealed in a strong position, they +poured a murderous fire into our troops about to go into camp after a +fatiguing march. Had the disposition of the cavalry screen and of the +advance-guard--which latter included both infantry and artillery--been less +perfect, or had the command been deficient in discipline or other soldierly +qualities, such an attack might have proved disastrous. As it was, it was +promptly and gallantly repulsed, the repulse resulting in the enemy's +precipitate evacuation of the city of Mayaguez, though it had been placed +in a state of defence. + +[Illustration: American Camp at Mayaguez.] + +The major-general commanding the army has been pleased to commend the +troops for their gallant action on this occasion,--a fact which it affords +the brigade commander genuine satisfaction to announce. + +By command of Brigadier-General Schwan. + +GROTE HUTCHESON, + +_Captain and Assistant Adjutant-General._ + + + +CHAPTER VI + +The Second Day Ends + +_A personal résumé of the fight_--_Lack of melodramatic accompaniments_--_A +lost chance of glory_--_Another neglected opportunity_--_A glimpse of the +flag_--_Once more into camp_. + + +At the risk of being considered tautological, I cannot refrain from +devoting another chapter to the Hormigueros fight: first, because it was my +initial experience under fire; and, second, because there are more things +in a soldier's memory than are set forth in the official report of his +commanding general. + +[Illustration: Plaza Mercado, Mayaguez.] + +Our advance-guard, after leaving San German, marched rapidly along the +level road leading to Mayaguez until about three o'clock in the afternoon. +As the head of our column came into view, the country people living along +the route gathered their most precious possessions into huge bundles, and +hurried away across the fields,--a sure sign that we were approaching the +enemy's position. At the hour mentioned we were suddenly set upon by a +blinding shower, and a halt was made for about fifteen minutes, when, the +fury of the downpour having somewhat abated, we once more began to move +ahead. The cavalry had gone off on a side road for some purpose not known +to me, and the infantry was deployed in long lines to the right and left, +while the artillery brought up the rear at an interval of about a hundred +yards. At half-past three the skirmishers came to the Rio Rosario, but, +being unable to ford it, were called back to the road and started across +the iron bridge, already described by General Schwan. It was at this moment +that the Spanish forces opened fire, concealed in a dense undergrowth about +500 yards in our front. + +All jammed together as we were, it would seem that we might have been +absolutely slaughtered by the leaden hail which was poured in upon us; and +the only explanation of our marvellous immunity probably lies in the fact +that the enemy were surprisingly bad shots. Bullets whistled by our heads, +or kicked up the dirt at our feet; but, though the pop of rifles made up a +continuous sound like the opening of a hundred thousand beer-bottles, not a +vestige of smoke rose in the clear air, not a patch of hostile uniform was +to be seen. + +For some reason our infantry did not at once reply to the Spanish +fusillade; and during this brief interval two men and two horses were +wounded in the platoon of artillery which stood idly just behind the +foot-soldiers,--too close, in fact, to be of any service, and in the way +of everybody. Then the two Gatling guns under Lieutenant Maginnis went off +into the field at our right, where they began to speak for themselves; and +Gatling guns in action have a mighty cheerful effect upon your nerves, +if they happen to be on your side of the fracas. Next, an order from the +general sent the artillery galloping to the rear for about an eighth of a +mile, where, after a short detour to the left and a mad race across swampy, +ditch-dug fields, it took up a temporary position on a convenient knoll. +The main body of our command had meanwhile arrived, and got into the row +without ceremony, the firing now being heavy on both sides. My memory +serves me with no clear impression of the sequence of events after this +period. + +[Illustration: Mouth of the Mayaguez River.] + +During the first hour of our fighting all the powder used by us was as +smokeless as that of the foe, and again and again the remark was passed +that this did not seem like the real business of war. In other respects +as well there were few of the accompaniments that we conjure up in our +stay-at-home imagination of battle scenes. There was a little galloping of +hooves, not long sustained; an occasional sharp cry of command or sharper +oath; an intermittent rumble and jar from the infrequently moved artillery, +not yet in action; and perhaps a groan or two from the wounded. But, even +when the field-rifles began to boom and shroud the landscape in drifting +smoke, the make-believe aspect of the affair did not in any degree +diminish. There were no clouds of dust, no heaps of slain, no cheers, no +desperate charges, and not even a glimpse of the stars and stripes. Away +to our right we could see crowds of spectators on the elevated platform +surrounding the Sanctuary of Montserrate; and I remember thinking it was +well no admission fee had been charged for the spectacle upon which they +gazed, else they would have murmured themselves defrauded. + +[Illustration: A Bit of Yauco.] + +My own most thrilling moments came about in this way: The platoon of +artillery to which I belonged had, as already related, decided that its +position directly behind the hotly beset infantry was untenable, and +consequently fell back at speed, for some distance. Standing at the head of +the first piece, with all my faculties engrossed by the scene before me, I +did not hear the order which should have sent me scampering to my seat on +the limber-chest, and so suddenly found myself alone, with my comrades +mounted and away in full career. A glance about me disclosed the fact that +no other living thing was standing up within a radius of five hundred +yards. I was a conspicuous mark for the eager slayers in the adjacent +underbrush; and I ought, of course, to rejoin my section as quickly as +possible. So I ran. It occurred to me that here was my chance to show what +I was made of. I would stop running, fill and light my pipe, and stalk in +a leisurely manner down the white road, thus winning, perhaps, comment +and applause from high places. I say all this occurred to me; but I also +happened to recollect the story told of the survivor of Bull Run, who +replied to a sneering criticism anent the Federal retreat from that famous +field by the sententious rejoinder that "all them as didn't run was there +yet,"--and I felt that I could fully appreciate the point. So I continued +to sprint as fast as I could, leaving the bubble Reputation for other +seekers, or for myself upon some other day and field. I was not afraid, and +I was simply doing my duty; but I sometimes think that I may have neglected +the flood-tide of opportunity, and I often wonder why, in melodramatic +crises, a man's mind is not always able to control his legs. + +I was not alone in the disregard of romantic possibilities. Later in the +afternoon I saw a wounded private propped up against a fence, and bleeding +copiously from a bullet-hole that extended through both cheeks. His eyes +were closed, and he was making queer noises in his throat. As I happened to +be idle at the instant, I stepped to his side, and inquired compassionately +if I could do anything for him. He opened his eyes with a jerk, spat forth +a couple of teeth, and replied: "If you'll tell me how the beginning of +'Sweet Marie' goes, I'll give you a piece of my face for a souvenir. I've +been trying to get that blame tune straight for the last fifteen minutes, +but keep getting off my trolley." And he laughed a ghastly laugh. I stared +at him in amazement, and then, seeing that he was not delirious, strode +moodily away. What that man ought to have said was, "How goes the fight?" +or "A drop of water, for God's sake"; but it is the painful truth that he +didn't. + +[Illustration: Wooden Dock at Mayaguez. In the Offing can be seen the +German Man-of-war "Geier."] + +A striking feature of the engagement was the thoroughly matter-of-fact +manner in which both officers and men went about their work. There was no +strutting, no posing, no shirking, but an evident intention on the part +of all concerned, from General Schwan down, to do whatever had to be done +without unnecessary fuss and feathers, promptly and well. I have seen far +more excitement displayed on an ordinary drill-ground at home, in the +piping times of peace. + +A sudden appearance of the flag just after the trumpets had sounded "cease +firing" brought moisture to the eyes of many a toughened veteran; but even +then, with victory still glowing in our grasp, there was not the ghost of a +cheer. We were simply more tired and hungry than usual, and until matters +had been straightened out for the night had no time for sentiment. And, +when we finally went into camp on the very field where we had just ceased +fighting, we found our chief interest centred in hot coffee, crisp +hard-tack, and comfortable blankets. We had begun to realize that we might +have lain stiffer and starker that night but for the whim of chance, and +were silent with the clacking tongue. + + * * * * * + +Hormigueros, the village which gave its name to this engagement, is a place +of about 3,000 inhabitants, whose houses cluster about the base of the +mountain crowned by the Sanctuary of Montserrate. This church is visited by +an endless stream of pilgrims, and many wild legends are told concerning +it. + + +[Illustration: "Eleventh of August" Street.] + + + +CHAPTER VII + +The Occupation of Mayaguez + +_We enter the city in triumph--An enthusiastic reception--A pretty girl +and the star-spangled banner--Other memorable incidents--Our rags and +tatters--A description of Mayaguez--We pitch our tents in a swamp--The +First Kentucky Volunteers._ + + +As early as half-past eight on the following morning--August 11--our scouts +entered the city of Mayaguez, some three or four miles distant from our +camp of the night before. About an hour later Captain Macomb marched his +troop through the streets, accompanied by the brigade headquarters staff. +Many prominent citizens greeted General Schwan at the Casa del Rey, and +declared themselves subject to his orders. + +At eleven o'clock the entire brigade entered Mayaguez, with the general +riding at its head, colors flying, and band playing. + +We had been through this triumphal entry business several times before; but +I, for one, never grew tired of it. It was for all the world like being in +the procession of a great circus. The sidewalks, balconies, windows, and +roof-tops were packed with wide-eyed humanity, of all ages and conditions, +hues, sizes, and degrees of beauty. At every street corner, and in every +square, great crowds of the lower classes rent the air with vivas and +bravos, regulating their enthusiasm by the size of the guns that swung past +them. It is easy enough for some grades of mankind to cheer with frenzy the +appearance of a victor, no matter who he be; and a Chinese host would +have been received with just as much acclaim as we were, had they come as +conquering heroes. The houses of the aristocrats sent us no demonstration +of feeling one way or the other, with a single startling and highly +dramatic exception. We had turned from the Calle Mirasol into the Calle +Candalaria, and the head of the column had almost reached the Plaza +Principal. The band had just crashed into "The Stars and Stripes Forever." +Suddenly the crowd on an upper balcony of a stately house to the left was +seen to sway violently; and a moment later a beautiful young girl, tears +streaming from her eyes, leant far out over the rail, and waved a crudely +made Old Glory over the ragged ranks below. For a breath we were struck +dumb by this apparition. Then every hat came off; and for the first time +that day we split the heavens with a cheer,--lustily and long. The outbreak +was infectious, and from every side the clamor swelled and burst till it +seemed as if the universe had vaulted into mad tumult at the touch of a +girl's hand. Her name was Catalina Palmer, and she has since married an +American lieutenant. But that, as Kipling would say, is another story. + +[Illustration: The Officers of the Alphonso XIII Regiment of Cazadores, +taken a few days before the Fight with the American Troops at Hormigueros.] + +At one corner a richly dressed old woman threw handful after handful +of small silver coins among us. In several places we trod upon great +quantities of flowers thrown in our path by peasant girls. The flags of +England, Germany, France, and Italy, were everywhere to be seen. The +quaintly uniformed corps of firemen turned out in splendor to do us honor, +and we saluted with grave dignity the immense statue of Columbus standing +in the centre of the town. By those who entered Mayaguez that day none of +these things will ever be forgotten. + +From a spectacular point of view I am inclined to believe that Kiralfy +would have regarded us with scorn and derision, though Jack Falstaff +might have been better pleased. We were gaunt, bronzed, and dishevelled, +unshaven, dirty, and tattered. Toes protruded from shoes, our hats were +full of holes, our trousers hardly deserved the name, and we limped +disgracefully. It was the popular impression in Puerto Rico that every +American soldier was a full-fledged millionaire, but even they expressed +some disappointment at our evident disregard for the external superfluities +of elegance. But, when you stop to consider it, we did not go to the +Antilles to make love to the pretty girls. We were quite sufficiently +clothed and fed to march through tropical underbrush, take several cities, +and put our more gaudily equipped enemies to ignominious flight. And that +is what we were there for. + +[Illustration: The Military Hospital, Mayaguez.] + +In the early part of the afternoon we went into camp about a mile and a +half outside the city lines, and the main body remained here until August +13. The camping-ground was a bad one, lying as it did in a bowl formed by a +circle of low hills; and it was soaked and spongy to a degree approaching +absolute swampiness. As we were not allowed to go into the city, we +grudgingly sat still, and chanted our misery to the unresponsive +wilderness, getting our feet wet and gathering the frolicsome malaria germ +by way of interlude. + +On the evening of our arrival a transport steamed into the bay, having on +board the First Kentucky Volunteers, who for some weeks afterward were +quartered in the town, doing provost duty and breaking hearts. Later on we +came to know them well; and, when they marched away to Ponce, we missed +them sadly. They had lots of money, and they spent it freely. We of the +regular brigade had not been paid for three months. + + * * * * * + +Mayaguez is a darling little city on the western coast of Puerto Rico,--a +place of lattices, balconies, and walled-in gardens ablaze with blossoms. +Behind it lies a semicircle of green hills, and before it is the laughing +sea. Columbus touched here in one of his earlier voyages, and historical +associations have been accumulating ever since. + +It is the third largest town on the island, having a population of 25,000, +the majority of whom are white. The harbor is next best to that at +San Juan,--102 miles distant,--and is an open roadstead formed by two +projecting capes. It is a seaport of considerable commerce, and +exports sugar, coffee, oranges, pineapples, and cocoanuts in large +quantities,--principally, with the exception of coffee, to the United +States. Of industry not much can be said, save that there are three +manufactories of chocolate, solely for local consumption. The climate is +excellent, the temperature never exceeding 90° F. + +[Illustration: Part of the Village of Maricao.] + +The city is connected by tramway with the neighboring town of Aguadilla, +and by railroad with Lares on one side and Hormigueros on the other. It +has a civil and military hospital, two asylums, a public library, three +bridges, a handsome market,--the best on the island, constructed entirely +of iron and stone, at a cost of 70,000 pesos,--a slaughter-house, a +theatre, a casino, and a number of societies of instruction, recreation, +and commerce. It also has a post-office and telegraph station; was founded +in 1760, and given the title of city in 1877. + +A river called the Mayaguez divides the town into two parts, connected by +two pretty iron bridges named Marina and Guenar, respectively. The sands of +this river formerly yielded much gold; and there is gold still to be had +from the same source, if one has energy enough to seek it. There are no +less than 37 streets and 4 squares,--the Principal, Mercado, Iglesia, and +Teatro,--all adorned by dainty fountains, and, in one instance,--the Plaza +del Teatro,--a veritable ocean of flowers as well. The Calle Mendez-Vigo +is one of the most picturesque and attractive streets in the world. It +stretches from one end of the town to the other, wide and beautifully +clean; and it is lined on either hand by the handsome houses of rich +merchants. In the middle of its length lies the Plaza del Flores, between +the theatre and the Hotel Paris. Moreover, it is in the Calle Mendez-Vigo +that there lives the prettiest girl in Puerto Rico,--a little maid of +sixteen years, Esperanza Bages by name, and already famous for her charms. + +The church was built in 1760. It is of masonry, with two towers and +magnificent altars. The town hall, situated on the Plaza Principal, is a +good stone building of two stories. Annexed to it is the Casa del Rey, +built in 1832, and serving for offices of the military commandancy. The +infantry barracks--Cuartel del Infanteria--is also a building of modern +construction, dating from 1848; and, though of simple architecture, it is +very capacious. + +And now let us leave Mayaguez for a little while, and get on with the war. + +[Illustration: Infantry Barracks, Mayaguez.] + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +The Engagement at Las Marias + +_Difficulties encountered in locating the retreating enemy_--_Final +determination upon pursuit_--_Lieutenant-Colonel Burke sets +forth_--_Discovery of Spanish troops near Las Marias_--_A one-sided +encounter_--_Unwelcome notification of truce_--_The rest of the brigade +comes up_--_Feeding the prisoners_--_Our disappointment_. + + +HEADQUARTERS INDEPENDENT BRIGADE (REGULARS), + +MAYACUEZ, PUERTO RICO, + +Aug. 22, 1898. + +GENERAL J.C. GILMORE, Headquarters of the Army, Ponce, P.R. + +_Sir_,--... Detachments from the cavalry troop went out (from Mayaguez) in +the afternoon of the 11th on both roads leading to Lares; but the left hand +or westerly of these roads was followed only a short distance, information, +thought to be reliable, having been received to the effect that the bulk of +the enemy's force had taken the more easterly road, on which the town of +Maricao is situated. This part of the force was reported as making fair +headway, having only a pack-train as transportation. Reports also came to +brigade headquarters that Spanish troops in large numbers, coming from +different places,--including Aguadilla and Pepino,--were concentrating to +attack my command. While not impressed with the accuracy of these reports, +I had the outposts strengthened, and placed a field officer in charge of +them. A party from the outposts, sent to reconnoitre the Las Marias road, +brought word on the afternoon of the 12th that the rear-guard of the +Spanish was still within five miles of Mayaguez, and proceeding slowly. + +[Illustration: The Rosario River, near Hormigueros.] + +I immediately determined to pursue and, if possible, to capture or destroy +this force, and at first resolved to move out with the entire command. +On reflection, however, I realized that there were objections to such a +course. The city and surrounding country were in an unsettled and excited +state, the latter swarming with guerillas, deserters, and bushwackers. I +had no accurate knowledge of the spirit, strength, and location of the +enemy's forces, supposed to be within easy reach of Mayaguez. Then, too, +the rest of my command, already worn down by the exhausting marches and +operations beginning on the 9th, had been seriously broken in upon by +heavy outpost duty and drenching rains, which latter had made their camp a +veritable mud-hole. Furthermore, the road to Lares, except for the first +eight miles out, was said to be all but impassable for wheeled vehicles; +and this reminded me that the major-general commanding had intimated that +I might have to go to Lares by way of Aguadilla. I therefore concluded +to despatch a reconnoissance in force, under Lieutenant-Colonel Burke, +Eleventh Infantry, to harass the enemy and to retard its progress in every +way. The detachment was made up of six companies of infantry and one +platoon each of cavalry and artillery, and started at ten o'clock A.M. on +August 12. It was given ample transportation for its three days' rations +and the infantrymen's packs. It was therefore as mobile as it could be +made without a pack-train. Hindered by excessive heat, followed by heavy +showers, it marched only to a point where the two roads, above mentioned, +are joined by a cross-road,--or about nine miles. I did not hear from +Colonel Burke during the night, as I had hoped to; and the remainder of my +command had its wagons packed, and was preparing to pull out on the morning +of the 13th, when a courier came to me from him with a report of the +difficulties that had retarded his progress, and of the presence of a +Spanish force near Las Marias, variously estimated at from 1,200 to 2,500. +This force, the colonel said, had taken up a defensive position; and he was +moving toward it... + +Respectfully submitted, + +THEODORE SCHWAN, _Brigadier-General Commanding_. + +[Illustration: A Street in San German.] + +MAYAGUEZ, PUERTO RICO, Aug. 16. + +_My dear Gilmore_,--Availing myself of the first breathing-spell I have had +for some time, I wish in this informal way and in advance of my regular +report to say a few words to the general and yourself regarding our last +Saturday's work (August 13). + +As soon as the result of the Hormigueros fight became known in +Mayaguez--about nine o'clock on the 10th--Colonel Soto, the commander, +"pulled up stakes." That the Spanish troops left in the greatest hurry the +condition of their barracks abundantly evidenced. Our advance-guard found +the city entirely clear of the Spanish, and I ordered my cavalry to keep +in touch with them. The cavalry took the right-hand road of the two roads +leading to Lares, over which some of the Spanish troops had actually gone; +and in the evening the troop commander reported that they were between +seven and ten miles off, and still retreating. My command was thoroughly +tired. No one without witnessing it can conceive the distress an infantry +soldier suffers while marching in this hot climate, in a deep column, +weighted down as he is even without his pack; and some rest seemed actually +imperative. But the next morning I found that the main body of the +Spanish had taken the westerly (or left hand) road to Lares, and early on +Friday--there being many other things to engage the attention of myself and +troops--I started Burke out in pursuit, with about 700 men, all told. I +overtook him Saturday morning about three and one-half miles north of +Las Marias. His infantry had pulled his guns over roads that were almost +perpendicular. His troops were exchanging shots at long range across a deep +valley with the retreating Spaniards, most of whom had forded (losing a lot +of men, who were drowned) a deep and rapid river known in that country +as the Rio Prieto. Our fire had already demoralized the thoroughly +disheartened and half-famished Spanish soldiers; and their rear-guard, at +least, was also disorganized and hiding in the hills. + +[Illustration: Tobacco Plantation (cutting leaves), Mayaguez.] + +A company of infantry I had sent out brought in, about ten o'clock in the +evening, forty odd prisoners, a number of pack-animals, etc. Our men were +thoroughly worn out by the day's work. Early the next morning I had four +companies of infantry, the cavalry, and two guns ready to resume the +pursuit. And there cannot be the shadow of a doubt that, had I had five +more hours, I should have taken Lares; for that the flying Spaniards had +prepared to abandon it at once I have the most reliable information. But +at this particular juncture the notice that hostilities would be suspended +came to me. No troops ever "suspended" with worse grace. We had given the +Spanish no peace, and had taken all the starch out of them. The colonel and +lieutenant-colonel had surrendered. Their troops were utterly demoralized +and disintegrated. It seemed a pity to deprive us of the full fruits of a +victory for which we had labored so hard; but of course we had to bow to +the inevitable. Please let the general read this. + +Faithfully your friend, + +THEO. SCHWAN. + +The part of our command left under Colonel DeRussy set out on the morning +of the 13th to join the rest of the column, whose movements you have +already followed in the preceding documents. The last detachment found it +no less difficult to make headway than had the first; and on the morning of +the 14th the entire brigade was so broken up and strung out that its head +and tail were a good nine miles apart. So much trouble had been experienced +in getting the artillery up the incredibly steep mountain-sides that no +one had been able to give assistance or even thought to the hopelessly +embarrassed wagon-train, and consequently we were practically without food +for over twenty-four hours. When at last something to eat did come plodding +along, we were obliged to put up with half-rations in order that our little +collection of recently acquired prisoners might be fed. At a conservative +estimate, those prisoners must have been the hungriest lot of men that ever +laid down their arms. There were less than sixty of them, and they drew +rations for about 1,200. However, they were fed; and we had the consolation +of realizing that victory, like some other things of less familiar +acquaintance, is its own reward. By noon on the 14th, everything was once +more in order; and I have not yet ceased to wonder how those in authority +managed to erase so quickly the chaos of the night before. + +[Illustration: The Plaza Principal in Mayaguez, looking toward the Church.] + +The engagement at Las Marias, while not particularly momentous in itself, +was note-worthy as being the last between our forces and those of Spain +during the recent war. I do not believe that the knowledge of this +fact--even had we possessed it at the time--would have materially consoled +us for the disappointment we felt in being obliged to stop shooting just +when we had learned to do it so beautifully; but, still, it is something to +have been in at the finish. + + + +CHAPTER IX + +The Territory Won + +_General Schwan returns to Mayaguez_--_Business and pleasure_--_A custom +we abolished_--_Extent of the district captured by our brigade_ +--_Aguadllla_--_Facilities for transportation_--_Labor and +the laborer_--_The cost of living_--_Rents and real estate_--_Skilled +workmen_--_A word about investments_. + + +On August 16, in obedience to orders from Army Headquarters, General Schwan +left the bulk of his troops in the positions they had respectively occupied +at the time of the receipt of the truce, and, accompanied by the artillery, +returned to Mayaguez. The people of this city had not yet recovered from +the ferment into which they had been thrown by our advent, and went about +in a state of tremulous titillation, expecting I know not what. At any +rate, it did not seem to arrive; and after a day or two had passed without +any sign of fell intent upon our part the merchants allowed themselves to +be coaxed back into their places of business. The cafés were once more +thronged. Semi-weekly concerts were given in the Plaza Principal by the +band of the Eleventh Infantry and the Banda del Bomberos, in alternation. +Balls, dinner-parties, and flirtations resumed their interrupted course, +gathering new zest and brilliancy from the foreign element within the +gates. All the Americans began to study Spanish, and all the Puerto Ricans +to study English, without particularly gratifying results on either side. +Cocking-mains, local games of chance, and more hectic immoralities were set +forth for the delectation of the private soldiers; while I have personal +knowledge of at least one quasi-clandestine bullfight, that may be best +described as a furtive fizzle. + +Strict measures were taken by the brigade commander to prevent +anything resembling disorderly conduct among his men, and though these +laurel-crowned heroes, under the influence of a wonderfully cheap rum, were +seized at odd moments with an evident desire to start the war all over +again, there was not much difficulty encountered in maintaining a degree of +decorum that was highly satisfactory. + +The sanitation of the municipality was rigorously inquired into, and +regulated; but it is only justice to the residents of Mayaguez to say that +little reform was necessary in this regard, as the current statistics of +mortality and disease amply proved. Of the few changes made, however, one +may be specifically mentioned. + +[Illustration: A Ruined Church along our Line of March.] + +[Illustration: A Puerto Rican Laundry.] + +It was the custom whenever a peasant died to carry the corpse to the +cemetery in a coffin hired at transient rates, and then, having dumped the +deceased into a shallow grave, to return what is facetiously known as the +"wooden overcoat" to its original owner, for further service. This was bad +enough, considering the danger of infection thus engendered; but much worse +remains behind. It seems that the plot of ground reserved for dead paupers +was very circumscribed. So it had become necessary to bury four or five +bodies in the same hole, the last one in being perhaps no more than six +inches from the light of day. And, as if this state of affairs were not +already sufficiently horrible, we found that the congestion was sometimes +still further relieved by a wholesale emptying of graves, the bones thus +removed being thrown into some adjacent corner above ground, where they lay +undisturbed in the hot sunshine and smelt to heaven. This ghastly practice +was summarily stopped. + + * * * * * + +If you will take a map of Puerto Rico and cut off the western section by +drawing a line from Guanica through Lares to Camuy, you will see at once +the extent of the territory brought under American control by General +Schwan. The principal towns of this section, in addition to those already +described, are Aguadilla, Maricao, Añasco, Cabo Rojo, Lares, and Las +Marias; but none of these places are important enough to call for detailed +notice, with the possible exception of the first-named. This city, +Aguadilla, while it has a population of only 5,500, is notable as being the +most picturesque town on the entire island. It is the capital and port of +the surrounding district; and, though the climate is hot, it is remarkably +healthful. The site is a stretch of shore facing Mona Channel, between +Cape Borinquen and the Rio Culebrinas. Directly behind rises the steep +green-crested Jaicoa Mountain, its slopes covered with orange, lemon, and +palm trees in bewildering profusion; while half-way to the summit there +gushes forth a fairylike, crystal stream, which flows directly through the +town before emptying into the bay. An antique church and a little fort of +11 guns, called Conception, add to the scenic beauty of the picture, when +viewed from the sea. Tourists will probably spoil this lovely town before +the end of another decade, but at present it is a quivering page of +romance. + +[Illustration: On the Road to Lares.] + +[Illustration: The Best Outfit in our Wagon Train.] + +Of the facilities for transportation in this part of Puerto Rico, it may +be said that they are either extremely good or extremely bad. The former +condition prevails generally in the valleys, and the latter among the hills +toward the interior. There are several interrupted lines of railroad, and +burros are used to a considerable extent by the inland planters; but far +the greater part of communication and carriage is accomplished by way of +the sea. + +Labor here, as elsewhere in the tropics, is to be had very cheaply, but is +uncertain, sluggish, and dishonest. A man for plantation work can be hired +for almost nothing a day, but he will not earn even that unless he is +driven at the point of a machete. The local peon desires to toil no longer +than is necessary to obtain the bare wherewithal to fill his belly. Then +he dreams away the remainder of the day, smoking the eternal cigarette; +perhaps rousing himself sufficiently to pick the strings of a guitar in the +cool of the evening--and this, at least, the beggar does well. He is not +at all ambitious to improve his condition, and he will never be any better +than he is to-day. Probably he will be much worse. He will cut throats and +burn haciendas all the gay year round if he is not allowed to gang his ain +gait. We are going to reform him, of course; but--the day will come when +we shall be ashamed to look Spain in the face. In Cuba this man's brothers +were known as "patriots"; which meant that they were soldiers when there +was any work to be done, and laborers when fighting was on hand. In my +opinion, they are vicious beasts. + +The cost of living naturally hinges upon the price of labor; and so one +may eat and drink in Puerto Rico for a trifle more than a song. Fruit and +vegetables are cheap and plentiful, though flour is so costly as to be +almost a luxury; while the meats are neither low in price nor good in +quality. Excellent fowls are to be had for very little money. Milk is dear +and dangerous; butter is only known as it appears in cans from Denmark; and +all the other dairy products are of the meanest description. Still, one can +live with pleasure and comfort upon the many peculiarly native articles of +subsistence in common use. + +[Illustration: "Promenade of the Fleas" in Yauco.] + +[Illustration: When only One Man gets a Letter.] + +Rents are low, but satisfactory houses are seldom to be had when they are +wanted. + +There is always room in the hotels of the larger towns; and, until one can +build for himself, a hotel offers a very pleasant substitute--at a slightly +increased expense. Land, for building purposes, or in an unimproved state, +can be leased for a sum that is almost nominal, except in a few highly +favored localities. Purchasers of land are more than likely to find +themselves immediately embroiled in a lawsuit over the title. If no flaw +exists in your title, then it does exist in one that was drawn up a hundred +years ago; and in either case the result is the same--you lose. + +Skilled workmen in any branch of industry will not find a good field for +their abilities in Puerto Rico, at least not for a few years to come. If +there were any demand for their services,--which there isn't,--they would +not be able to command anything approaching the standard of wages usual in +the United States. + +To the investor, dairy farms, ice-plants, transportation schemes, and +bar-rooms offer tempting possibilities,--I reserve agriculture for separate +consideration,--but it cannot be too forcibly emphasized that plenty of +money, good-health, patience, and a smattering of the Spanish language are +absolutely indispensable requisites to the foreigner trying to do business +on this island. + +[Illustration: The "Weary Travellers' Spring," near Añasco.] + +[Illustration: A Crude Sugar Mill near Las Marias.] + + + +CHAPTER X + +The End of the Campaign + +_Arrival of the mail-steamer_--_The soldier-boy and his letters_--_The +greater part of the brigade is quartered in Mayaguez_--_Agriculture +in Puerto Rico_--_Material result of our campaign_--_A farewell +order_--_General Schwan departs for the United States_. + + +On the 19th of August a steamer came into the harbor, bringing us a mail, +the first we had received since the beginning of July. If the people who +wrote those letters could have seen the happiness they wrought upon their +distant boys, I am sure they would have been surprised and touched. Again +and again we read the simple news of home,--the cat was dead, or little +sister had the mumps, or father had built a new fence around the back +pasture,--and wars and kings and presidents faded into forgetfulness before +the heart to heart talks that had come from over-seas. + +I don't suppose there is anybody that knows the value of a letter better +than a soldier does. A few blotted lines from his mother or sister or +sweetheart are meat and drink and fine raiment for his soul. He feels brave +again and good again and--homesick again. He makes life a burden for the +whole camp until he has borrowed or stolen a scrap of paper and a stubby +pencil wherewith to make reply. He sits down in some convenient spot, with +emotion fairly oozing from every pore, and for a solid hour he wrestles +with his tools and vocabulary. The result probably does not altogether +please him. He feels that he has said too much about his lack of socks, +the toughness of his fare, the flatness of his purse. All the love and +tenderness he meant to set down have somehow refused to leave him, even in +description. But he knows he will be massacred if he goes howling for more +paper; and so he sends off what he has written, counting the weary days +until his answer comes. The man who first invented writing was, without +doubt, the greatest man that ever lived. + +[Illustration: A very Popular Spot.] + +[Illustration: Two Knights and a Pawn.] + +On August 25 it was decided to bring all but four companies of the brigade +into quarters at Mayaguez, chiefly because a great deal of sickness had +begun to spring up in the outlying camps. This was accordingly done. + + * * * * * + +Scientific agriculture and prosperity have long been regarded as almost +synonymous terms in Puerto Rico. + +The provincial government established and maintained an experimental +station at Rio Piedras, for the purpose of promoting a technical knowledge +of the native soil-products; and the results of this step have proved +invaluable. The recent director of the station, Señor Fernando Lopez Tuero, +wrote, while in office, several monographs on tropical agriculture; which I +have been at some pains to translate in my search for absolutely reliable +information relating to that subject. Señor Tuero is considered, to be a +high and conservative authority by those of his compatriots who are best +able to judge; and I feel confident that the following estimates are +nearly, if not entirely, correct:-- + +The chief agricultural products of the island are cotton, rice, cacao, +corn, cocoanuts, pepper, bananas, tobacco, vegetable dyes, coffee, sugar, +pineapples, and vanilla. Of all these I shall only pause to deal here with +the last four. + +Coffee and sugar are regarded by the Puerto Ricans as their most valuable +crops. The first takes six years to come into full bearing, and during this +time will cost an expense of about 162 pesos an acre, with a return in the +last year of 86 pesos an acre,--a net deficit for the full period of 76 +pesos. Afterward the expense should be about 66 pesos an acre, and the +return 90 pesos. Sugar requires a heavy investment at the start. A +plantation of 250 acres, together with the necessary buildings and +machinery, will call for about 52,500 pesos. The total cost of a crop, from +beginning to end, should be 152 pesos an acre, and the return about 170. + +A pineapple plantation, for the investor of limited means, ought to prove +profitable and encouraging. The first year of cultivation will produce a +crop, at a final cost of 40 pesos an acre, including the land-rent. The +return is put down at 200 pesos, leaving a gorgeous net profit of 160 +pesos. It would seem perhaps that under such circumstances it is odd that +there is not a more general raising of this fruit by the local planters; +but the reason for an apparent neglect of a golden opportunity lies in +the difficulties heretofore encountered in finding swift and adequate +transportation from field to market. With this handicap removed there is +little doubt that pineapple-growing will become a tempting industry. + +The vanilla bean, however, is king-pin of the list in the claim of profit +to be derived from its culture. It is said that the yearly cost of raising +the crop will be 94 pesos an acre, chiefly for manure and irrigation. And +the annual return for every acre is figured at 652 pesos,--a net profit +that is fairly dazzling. + +While all these details--which I have digressed so many times to give--do +not properly form a part of the story of our campaign, yet it is by +no means unusual for one who has put his hand into a grab-bag to look +carefully and well at the prize withdrawn. And that is what I have been +doing. + +The material result of General Schwan's campaign may be briefly summarized +thus: He marched his command ninety-two miles in eight days; fought two +successful engagements; expelled the Spanish forces from the entire western +part of Puerto Rico; captured and occupied nine towns; and took 362 +prisoners, including Colonel Villeneuve, a lieutenant-colonel, and four +other regular officers. In addition he seized 450 stands of arms, 145,000 +rounds of ammunition, and ten thousand dollars in silver coin. His loss was +1 killed and 16 wounded against a total of 20 killed and 50 wounded on the +side of the enemy. + +On August 27 the general issued a farewell order to his brigade, from which +I briefly quote:-- + +"On relinquishing his command to return to the United States, the +brigadier-general commanding desires to congratulate, and to return his +heartfelt thanks to, the officers and soldiers of the regular brigade for +their achievements and excellent conduct during the last eighteen days.... +Our troops have continued to hold their advanced positions and outposts +until now, when, peace being assured, all but a small fraction have been +brought to comparatively comfortable barracks near this city. The hardships +endured on the march and at these outposts have been great.... But these +hardships have been cheerfully borne by officers and men. Not a murmur has +been heard, despite the fact that nearly one-fourth of the strength of most +organizations is on sick-report, their ailments being directly caused by +the exposure incident to this campaign. + +"Less than three weeks have been occupied by the campaign, yet a bond of +sympathy between officers and soldiers has been established that years of +peace could not have engendered." + +On the following morning, accompanied by Lieutenant G.T. Summerlin, his +aide-de-camp, General Schwan left Mayaguez for Ponce, where he boarded the +transport "Chester," and returned to the United States. + +The campaign of the Independent Regular Brigade was thus brought to an +official end. + + + +A BRIEF SKETCH OF THE LIFE OF BRIGADIER-GENERAL SCHWAN. + + +Theodore Schwan was born in Germany, July 9, 1841. He received his earlier +education in the preparatory schools of his native land, but came to the +United States when he was about sixteen years old. He enlisted as a +private in the Tenth Infantry on June 12, 1857; and served successfully +as corporal, sergeant, first sergeant, and quartermaster-sergeant until +October 31, 1863, when he received his commission. He was made a first +lieutenant, Tenth Infantry, April 9, 1864; regimental quartermaster in +December, 1864; a captain, March 14, 1866; a major, Eleventh Infantry, +and assistant adjutant-general, July 6, 1886; a lieutenant-colonel and +assistant adjutant-general, February 19, 1897; a colonel and assistant +adjutant-general, May 18, 1898. Two weeks before his last promotion in +the regular army he was appointed brigadier-general of volunteers, and in +accordance with the Act of Congress, approved March 2, 1899, he will retain +that rank until July 1, 1901. He was brevetted several times during the +War of the Rebellion, and his whole military career, covering a period of +forty-two years, is absolutely devoid of blemish. + + + +APPENDIX + + +I + +The following officers received distinguished mention in General Schwan's +reports, for service rendered under fire during the campaign in western +Puerto Rico:-- + + Lieutenant-Colonel Burke, Eleventh Infantry. + [A] Major Gilbreath, Eleventh Infantry. + Captain P.M.B. Travis, Eleventh Infantry. + Captain R.W. Hoyt, Eleventh Infantry. + Captain A.L. Myer, Eleventh Infantry. + Captain Penrose, Eleventh Infantry. + Captain Macomb, Fifth Cavalry. + Acting Assistant Surgeon Savage. + Lieutenant Odon Gurvoits, Eleventh Infantry. + Lieutenant T.F. Maginnis, Eleventh Infantry. + Lieutenant Alexander, Eleventh Infantry. + Lieutenant Wells, Eleventh Infantry. + Lieutenant W.S. Valentine, Fifth Cavalry. + Lieutenant Rogers F. Gardner, Third Artillery. + +[Footnote A: Died of apoplexy on August 22, 1898, while in camp near Las +Marias.] + +In addition to those named above, special and valuable efficiency was +displayed by Major E.A. Root, engineer; Major H.H. Benham, ordnance; Major +Egan, brigade-surgeon; Captain Buchanan, Collector-of-the-Port at Mayaguez; +Captain Davison, brigade-quartermaster; Captain Hutcheson, assistant +adjutant-general; and Captain Elkins,[A] Lieutenant Byron, and Lieutenant +Summerlin, aides-de-camp. + +[Footnote A: Wounded at battle of Hormigueros.] + + +II + +In connection with the present writer's expressed opinion regarding the +relative practical value of regulars and volunteers in modern warfare, the +following excerpt from the Chicago _Record_ of November 3, 1898, is worth +reading. + +Captain Avid Wester, the Swedish officer who accompanied the American army +in Cuba, in order to study the war, has just returned to Sweden. During +his stay in Gothenburg he was interviewed, and he seems now to have a more +sympathetic view of the Americans--the volunteers excepted--than former +reports indicated. Captain Wester greatly praised the treatment he had +received from all the American officers, and the bravery of the Americans +in the regular army. "Of the 18,000 men under the command of General +Shafter," he says, "only 4,000 were volunteers or militiamen; the rest +consisted of regulars, which had had an average service of six years on the +borders of the Indian territory. They were very good and well-disciplined +soldiers, who went into battle with complete disregard of death. The +militia regiments, however, could not be got within range of the Spanish +bullets, and all the stories about the heroism of volunteers are untrue. +The only volunteers who distinguished themselves were the 'rough riders,' +who, in spite of their name, fought on foot, but these men were not a +militia regiment. The troop consisted of cowboys and adventurers, who cared +neither for life nor death, but rushed blindly into battle. Brave fellows +withal." After praising the bravery of the Spaniards and the accuracy of +their fire, Captain Wester expresses the belief that with modern rifles in +use it is of the greatest importance to have well-trained soldiers, who +in the heat of battle retain their coolness and listen to their officers' +directions and commands,--in a word, soldiers who retain good firing +discipline. This, he says, cannot be expected of men with short time of +training, on whom the din of battle often has so paralyzing an effect that +the soldier can neither hear nor see. + + +III + +The question concerning the quality of the beef served as a ration to our +troops during the recent war--in Cuba and Puerto Rico, and aboard the +transports--has already been pretty thoroughly answered, one way or the +other. Yet, though the topic is worn nearly threadbare and admittedly has +nothing in particular to do with General Schwan's campaign, I venture to +make, in this place, a personal contribution to the discussion in the form +of an extract from a letter, written by me from Mayaguez on September 15, +1898. + +Our rations [on the transport "Comanche"] consisted of hard tack, coffee, +canned baked-beans, canned tomatoes, and canned "roast beef." Before we +arrived at Key West the baked-beans had all been eaten and the water in the +tanks had gone rotten--we carried no condenser--so that we were reduced to +the rather monotonous diet of tomatoes for breakfast, tomatoes and canned +roast beef for dinner, and tomatoes again for supper; with a full allowance +of coffee and hard tack at all three meals. + +Anybody will be able to understand that we were pretty hungry at the end of +the second day. We were thirsty too--I paid as much as fifty cents for a +glass of ice-water from the cabin--but I will skip the mass of details. We +had seen the piles of neat cans, labelled "roast beef," stacked up on the +dock at Port Tampa, and we were impatient for the first mess-call that +made us acquainted with the contents of those cans. I regret that I cannot +adequately describe to you the appearance of the stuff. I will simply say +that it looked filthy, was covered with a sort of slime, and emitted a +nauseous odor. It was very hard to even gaze at it and remain unmoved, +but we did more than that--we tried to eat it. I managed to swallow three +mouthfuls and immediately became wretchedly sick. The example seemed to be +popular. + +On the succeeding day we were each given an unopened can of the meat, which +was supposed to last us for twenty-four hours. Most of the men threw their +portions overboard at once; a few packed away the "corpse"--as we already +called it--for purposes of trade with the unsophisticated Cubans; and I +kept my can as a souvenir. I did not, however, keep it long; for, chancing +to drop it upon the deck, the contents exploded with a distinct report, +startling me not a little and covering my person with the débris. At the +time I thought this experience was going to be altogether unique, but I +discovered afterward that the same thing happened in a great many other +instances. + +Having abandoned the beef, we were forced to subsist on hard tack and +tomatoes for the rest of the voyage, and hailed with joy our anchorage at +Daiquiri. But we were too previous. During our ten days' stay in Cuba we +found the "corpse" still waiting for us in the mess, and we carried the +ghastly burden along when we finally steamed away for Puerto Rico. + +We landed at Guanica on the 25th of July, which meant that we had been +half-starved for twenty-two days. We had forgotten the "Maine" and would +have greeted Weyler himself with a glad sweet smile, had he come bearing in +his hands food fit for a human being. Once more disembarked, we lost sight +of the canned roast beef for good--save at extremely rare intervals while +on the march. We found no difficulty in eating the beef obtained from +Puerto Rican steers, although it was tough and bloodless; and we received +salt pork often enough to furnish variety. + +After the cessation of hostilities we began to get American beef instead of +the native article, and, while it was by no means so impossible a food as +its canned cousin, it certainly could not be called delicious. It smelled +badly before it was cooked, was rigid and stringy when served, and had a +rank taste, like--well like nothing else on earth. Our sick-list doubled at +this time. + + +IV + +A list of the killed and wounded on the American side, at the battle near +Hormigueros, Puerto Rico, on the 10th of August, 1898. + +_Killed_. + +Fred Fenneberg, private in Company "D," Eleventh Infantry. + +_Wounded_. + +Lieutenant J.C. Byron, Eighth United States Cavalry, R.D.C. + +John Bruning, corporal in Light Battery "D," Fifth Artillery. + +George Curtis, private in Light Battery "D," Fifth Artillery. + +Samuel G. Frye, private in Light Battery "D," Fifth Artillery. + +Willard H. Wheeler, sergeant in Company "A," Eleventh Infantry. + +Joseph P. Ryan, corporal in Company "A," Eleventh Infantry. + +Arthur Sparks, private in Company "C," Eleventh Infantry. + +John L. Johnson, corporal in Company "D," Eleventh Infantry. + +J.A. Sanders, private in Company "D," Eleventh Infantry. + +Harry E. Arrick, private in Company "E," Eleventh Infantry. + +Henry Gerrick, private in Company "E," Eleventh Infantry. + +Paul F. Mitzkie, private in Company "E," Eleventh Infantry. + +William Rossiter, private in Company "G," Eleventh Infantry. + +Lemuel P. Cobb, private in Company "I," Eleventh Infantry. + +D.J. Graves, private in Company "M," Eleventh Infantry. + +Amos Wilkie, corporal in Company "M," Eleventh Infantry. + +_Injured_. + +Frank Muller, private in Company "E," Eleventh Infantry. + +Augustus H. Ryan, private in Company "F," Eleventh Infantry. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FROM YAUCO TO LAS MARIAS*** + + +******* This file should be named 10439-8.txt or 10439-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/4/3/10439 + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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For +example an eBook of filename 10234 would be found at: + +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/2/3/10234 + +or filename 24689 would be found at: +https://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/6/8/24689 + +An alternative method of locating eBooks: +https://www.gutenberg.org/GUTINDEX.ALL + +*** END: FULL LICENSE *** diff --git a/old/10439-8.zip b/old/10439-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..194176f --- /dev/null +++ b/old/10439-8.zip diff --git a/old/10439.txt b/old/10439.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cf42bbc --- /dev/null +++ b/old/10439.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2373 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, From Yauco to Las Marias, by Karl Stephen +Herrman + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + + + + +Title: From Yauco to Las Marias + +Author: Karl Stephen Herrman + +Release Date: December 12, 2003 [eBook #10439] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: US-ASCII + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FROM YAUCO TO LAS MARIAS*** + + +E-text prepared by Lazar Liveanu and Project Gutenberg Distributed +Proofreaders + + + +FROM YAUCO TO LAS MARIAS + +A Recent Campaign in Puerto Rico by the Independent Regular Brigade +under the command of BRIG. GENERAL SCHWAN + +by + +KARL STEPHEN HERRMAN + + + + + + +[Illustration: Theodore Schwan, Brigadier-General U.S. Volunteers.] + + + + +TO ROBERT SMITH COBB + +MY BROTHER LORD IN CERTAIN ISLES OF FRIENDSHIP AND OWNER OF PRECIOUS CARGO +IN MY SHIP OF DREAMS + + + +CONTENTS + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +CHAPTER I + +The Independent Regular Brigade + +Place of meeting--Forces comprised by the command--Why we were not like the +Volunteers--Characteristics of the professional soldier--Sketches of the +more important officers--What we were ordered to do. + + +CHAPTER II + +The First Day's March + +Disposition of our column--The road to Sabana Grande--The infantrymen's +burden--Wayside hospitality--Hard tack and repartee--Into camp and under +blankets--Arrival of Macomb's troop--A smoke-talk. + + +CHAPTER III + +The People of Puerto Rico + +Their attitude toward the invading Americans--The proclamation of General +Miles--Justice and the private soldier--Depravity of the native masses--Men +and women of the better class--Local attributes of life--A hint to the +weary. + + +CHAPTER IV + +The Second Day Begins + +We march to San German--Removal of the sick from the ambulances--An +approaching Spanish force--Our scouts and their leader--Concerning Senor +Fijardo--Visible effects of imminent battle--Something about the town of +San German. + + +CHAPTER V + +The Engagement at Hormigueros + +Topography of the battlefield--Macomb's cavalry fired into by Spanish +skirmishers--Our advance-guard comes into contact with the foe--General +Schwan reaches the firing line--The main body arrives and joins in +the fray--Subsequent manoeuvres of our column--The Spanish retreat--A +computation of losses. + + +CHAPTER VI + +The Second Day Ends + +A personal resume of the fight--Lack of melodramatic accompaniments--A lost +chance of glory--Another neglected opportunity--A glimpse of the flag--Once +more into camp. + + +CHAPTER VII + +The Occupation of Mayaguez + +We enter the city in triumph--An enthusiastic reception--A pretty girl +and the star-spangled banner--Other memorable incidents--Our rags and +tatters--A description of Mayaguez--We pitch our tents in a swamp--The +First Kentucky Volunteers. + + +CHAPTER VIII + +The Engagement at Las Marias + +Difficulties encountered in locating the retreating enemy--Final +determination upon pursuit--Lieutenant-Colonel Burke sets forth--Discovery +of Spanish troops near Las Marias--A one-sided encounter--Unwelcome +notification of truce--The rest of the brigade comes up--Feeding the +prisoners--Our disappointment. + + +CHAPTER IX + +The Territory Won + +General Schwan returns to Mayaguez--Business and pleasure--A custom +we abolished--Extent of the district captured by our brigade +--Aguadilla--Facilities for transportation--Labor and the +laborer--The cost of living--Rents and real estate--Skilled workmen--A word +about investments. + + +CHAPTER X + +The End of the Campaign + +Arrival of the mail-steamer--The soldier-boy and his letters--The greater +part of the brigade is quartered in Mayaguez--Agriculture in Puerto +Rico--Material result of our campaign--A farewell order--General Schwan +departs for the United States. + + +A Brief Sketch of the Life of Brigadier-General Schwan + + +APPENDIX + + +THE ILLUSTRATIONS + +Theodore Schwan, Brigadier-General U.S. Volunteers +Statue of Columbus, Mayaguez +American Cavalry entering Mayaguez on the 11th of August +The Public Fountain in Aguadilla, a Favorite Rendezvous + for Runaway Lovers +Plaza Principal, Mayaguez. Town Hall in Background +Spanish Prisoners who were brought from Las Marias to Mayaguez +Plaza Principal, Mayaguez. A Public Celebration of the New Flag's Advent, + under the Auspices of the Local School-teachers and their Pupils +The Plaza of San German on Market-day +Lower Quarter of Mayaguez +A Mid-section of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez +Positions occupied by Spanish Soldiers in the Skirmish at Hormigueros +Railroad from Mayaguez to Aguadilla +The Theatre, Mayaguez +Custom-house at Mayaguez occupied by General Schwan as Brigade + Headquarters +Road from Mayaguez to Anasco +Lower End of the Calle de Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez +Guenar Bridge, Mayaguez +Upper End of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez +The Town of Sabana Grande +Witch River, near Cabo Rojo +American Camp at Mayaguez +Plaza Mercado, Mayaguez +Mouth of the Mayaguez River +A Bit of Yauco +Wooden Dock at Mayaguez. In the Offing can be seen the German Man-of-war + "Geier" +"Eleventh of August" Street +The Officers of the Alphonso XIII Regiment of Cazadores, taken a few days + before the Fight with the American Troops at Hormigueros +The Military Hospital, Mayaguez +Part of the Village of Maricao +Infantry Barracks, Mayaguez +The Rosario River, near Hormigueros +A Street in San German +Tobacco Plantation (cutting leaves), Mayaguez +The Plaza Principal in Mayaguez looking toward the Church +A Ruined Church along our Line of March +A Puerto Rican Laundry +Watering the Artillery Horses at Yauco +A Native Bull-team +On the Road to Lares +The Best Outfit in our Wagon Train +"Promenade of the Fleas" in Yauco +When only One Man gets a Letter +The "Weary Travellers' Spring," near Anasco +A Crude Sugar Mill near Las Marias +A very Popular Spot +Two Knights and a Pawn + + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +I have ventured to set down in this place the following bald and brief +items of our recent history, not because I doubt an already existing common +knowledge of their substance, but simply because they serve to illuminate +and give finish to the succeeding narrative. + +Major-General Miles sailed from Guantanamo, Cuba, on the 21st of July, +1898; and landed at Guanica, Puerto Rico, on the 25th of the same month. +The troops sailing with him numbered 3,554 officers and men, mainly +composed of volunteers from Massachusetts, Illinois, and the District +of Columbia, with a complement of regulars in five batteries of light +artillery, thirty-four privates from the battalion of engineers, and +detachments of recruits, signal, and hospital corps. + +On August 1st he was re-enforced by General Schwan's brigade of the Fourth +Army Corps and part of General Wilson's division of the First Corps, +raising his numerical strength to 9,641 officers and men. The Spanish +forces in Puerto Rico at that time numbered some 18,000, about evenly +divided between regulars and volunteers, and scattered advantageously over +3,700 square miles of territory. By the end of August the American strength +had nearly doubled. + +In the brief campaign that followed, a large part of the island was +captured by the United States forces, and the positions of all the Spanish +garrisons, except that at San Juan, were made untenable. There were +altogether six engagements,--at Guanica Road, Guayamo (2), Coamo, +Hormigueros, Aibonito, and Las Marias,--with a total loss to the Spaniards +of about 450 killed and wounded, while the American casualties of the same +nature amounted to 43. + +General Miles, in his scheme of operations, intended that three columns +of our troops--each composed of infantry, cavalry, artillery, and their +adjuncts--should march through the eastern, western, and central parts of +the island, respectively, diverging at Ponce and coalescing before San +Juan. The entire success of this plan was prevented only by the arrival of +the order to suspend hostilities, on the 13th of August. + +The column marching east--known as the First Division, First Army +Corps--was commanded by Major-General James H. Wilson, and took part in +three engagements. The column sent through the interior--known as the +Provisional Division--was commanded by Brigadier-General Guy V. Henry, and +met no opposition of moment. + +The third column, called the Independent Regular Brigade, and directed +to proceed through the western section of the island, was commanded by +Brigadier-General Theodore Schwan, and had two engagements with the +Alphonso XIII Regiment of Cazadores. + +It is the story of General Schwan's campaign that I am about to relate. + + + + + +CHAPTER I + +The Independent Regular Brigade + +_Place of meeting_--_Forces comprised by the command_--_Why we were +not like the Volunteers_--_Characteristics of the professional +soldier_--_Sketches of the more important officers_--_What we were ordered +to do_. + + +Yauco, the place selected by General Miles as a rendezvous for the troops +of the Independent Regular Brigade, is a town of about 15,000 inhabitants, +and some six miles distant from Guanica. It is connected both by rail and +wagon-road with Ponce, the largest city on the island, and is noted for its +Spanish proclivities, fine climate, excellent running water, and setting of +mountains--luxuriantly green throughout the year. + +Here were assembled on the evening of Aug. 8, 1898, all the forces assigned +to General Schwan, with the exception of Troop "A," Fifth Cavalry, which +did not appear until some thirty hours later. The command was composed of +the Eleventh Infantry, Light Battery "D" of the Fifth Artillery, Light +Battery "C" of the Third Artillery, and the troop of cavalry already +mentioned,--all regulars, and as resolute and picturesque a set of men as +ever wore the uniform of war. + + * * * * * + +Because we had no Volunteers with us, we were not granted even one little +word-spattering newspaper scribe, and so relinquished at the outset any +fugitive hopes of glory that otherwise might have been entertained. We were +out for business,--hard marching, hard living, hard fighting,--and the +opening vista was fringed with gore. We were none of us the darlings of any +particular State, nor the precious offspring of a peripatetic statesman +with a practised pull. We were at no time decimated by disease through +ignorant or insubordinate disregard of the primary principles of hygiene. +We didn't write long wailing letters home because we were obliged to sleep +on the damp ground, and had neither hot rolls, chocolate, nor marmalade for +breakfast. We were ragged, hungry, tough, and faithful. In other words, we +were regular army men, and, most distinctly, _not_ Volunteers. + +[Illustration: Statue of Columbus, Mayaguez.] + +There is a personality peculiar to the professional soldier, even though +he be but a half-fledged recruit, that defies analysis and baffles +description. He is of course built from the same clay as his brother of the +Volunteers; but the latter is a tin god, and the former is a devil. Yet the +difference does not spring from anything more fundamental than environment, +and therein lies the solace of the other fellow. Putting aside all odious +comparisons and limiting myself to a view of the regular army man as I know +him, I can simply say that in the eight months during which I underwent +in his company hard knocks and privations without number I could not have +found a more truly satisfactory comrade and friend. He doesn't, on the +average, know much about books; nor did he ever hear of the Etruscan +Inscriptions or the Pyramidal Policy of the Ancient Egyptians. He takes a +grim delight in smashing the English language into microscopic atoms at a +single blow. He is more fond of women, horses, and prize-fighting than is +good for him. He will steal when he is hungry, lie to save his skin, curse +most terribly on trifling provocation, and spend, to his last sou markee, +his hard-won wage on adulterated drink. + + "He's a devil an' a ostrich + an' a orphan-child in one." + +But he will stand his ground in action while there is ground to stand on; +he will throw his life away at a moment's notice for the flag, or a chosen +comrade, or a worthless girl; he will march and starve and thirst world +without end if he has a leader who holds his confidence; and he is, on the +whole, a rather fine specimen of the true American--being usually Irish or +German. + +[Illustration: American Cavalry entering Mayaguez on the 11th of +August.] + +Our brigade commander, General Theodore Schwan--silent, upright, +tall, and spare--was regarded with affection and respect by every one who +came into personal contact with him, officer and man alike. He was shrewd, +clever, and distinguished, but never too busy or elevated to listen to the +humblest soldier from the ranks, and from first to last a gentleman. Of his +staff it is the highest praise to say that they were in every way worthy of +their chief. Bluff Captain Davison, gruff Captain Hutcheson, studious Major +Root, saturnine Major Egan, wounded Lieutenant Byron, patient Lieutenant +Poore, dashing Captain Elkins, and courteous Lieutenant Summerlin, I salute +you all in the most military manner of the soldier dismounted! You were my +friends in need, you lent me money, you gave me fatherly counsel and passes +of freedom to the shimmering tropic dawn--and I shall not forget. + +At the head of the Eleventh Infantry was Colonel I.D. DeRussy, who, with +his ministerial drawl and dry wit, was a sharp contrast to his blunt, +impetuous, and fiery second in command, Lieutenant-Colonel Burke. But, so +far as I am aware, perpetual harmony reigned between them; and both were +beloved by their men. The battalion of artillery was commanded by Captain +Frank Thorp of Light Battery "D," my own outfit. He was best known in the +ranks as "Side-wheeler," from a peculiarity of gait, and, though well on +in years, was at all times gallant, courageous, and capable. A stiff +disciplinarian, he kept his guardhouse well filled from week to week; but +he was as quick to reward as punish, when warranted by circumstances. It +is worthy of note that although he took each day enough medicine to lay an +ordinary man on his back, or in an early grave, yet he was well and fit +from start to finish. + +Captain Macomb of the Fifth Cavalry is not an easy man to describe in cold +ink. Handsome, stalwart, and grave; black-haired, black-eyed, a scarf of +yellow knotted at his throat,--he was Custer without the vanity or Lancelot +devoid a Guinevere. + +[Illustration: The Public Fountain in Aguadilla, a Favorite Rendezvous for +Runaway Lovers.] + +When he clattered through the many quaint little towns abutting on our line +of march, he was followed by a billow of sighs from behind the half-closed +lattices, though I dare say he knew nothing about it; for indeed he was +no heart-breaker, but a true soldier. I recommend him to either Rudyard +Kipling or Richard Harding Davis. + +Said General Miles, in a letter of instruction to General Schwan under date +of August 6, 1898:-- + +"You will drive out or capture all Spanish troops in the western portion +of Puerto Rico. You will take all necessary precautions and exercise great +care against being surprised or ambushed by the enemy, and will make the +movement as rapidly as possible, at the same time exercising your best +judgment in the care of your command, to accomplish the object of your +expedition." + +And this programme we were now ready to carry out. + + + +CHAPTER II + +The First Day's March + +_Disposition of our column_--_The road to Sabana Grande_--_The +infantrymen's burden_--_Wayside hospitality_--_Hard tack and +repartee_--_Into camp and under blankets_--_Arrival of Macomb's troop_--_A +smoke-talk._ + +[Illustration: Plaza Principal, Mayaguez. Town Hall in background.] + + +The disposition and arrangement of our forces on the first day's march can +best be shown by the following document:-- + +HEADQUARTERS INDEPENDENT BRIGADE (REGULARS), CAMP AT YAUCO, PUERTO RICO, +Aug. 8, 1898. + +GENERAL ORDERS No. 13. + +This command will move out on the road to Sabana Grande at ten o'clock +tomorrow morning. It will observe the following rules and order of march:-- + +1. Macomb's troop of cavalry will act as a screen, and will march about two +miles in advance of the point of the advance-guard. The extent of the front +to be covered by, and the disposition of the cavalry, will depend upon +the nature of the country, and will be left to the judgment of the troop +commander. He will communicate freely by means of orderlies with the +commander of the advance-guard, who will at once transmit all messages to +the commanding general. Three mounted orderlies to be furnished by the +troop, will march with the advance-guard. + +2. Two companies of infantry, one platoon of artillery, and two Gatling +guns will constitute the advance-guard. A pioneer detachment, consisting of +one non-commissioned officer and eight men, to be carefully selected from +the advance-guard, will march with the reserve, and will be under the +direction of the engineer officer of the brigade. The requisite tools +will be carried on a cart. Upon arriving in camp, the advance-guard will +immediately establish the outpost. + +3. The main body will consist of nine companies of infantry, one battery +and two platoons of artillery, and two Gatling guns. + +4. The trains following the main body will be under the direction of the +brigade quartermaster, and their order of march will be:-- + + Hospital train. + Ammunition column. + Supply and baggage wagons. + +The rear-guard will be composed of one company of infantry. A detachment +from it will protect exposed flanks of the train. If horses can be procured +for them, the commanders of the advance and rear guards will be mounted. + +The above disposition for each day's march will be conformed to, unless +otherwise ordered. + +By command of Brigadier-General Schwan. + +GROTE HUTCHESON, _Captain and Assistant Adjutant-General._ + +[Illustration: Spanish Prisoners who were brought from Las Marias to +Mayaguez.] + +As Captain Macomb's cavalry had not arrived at the hour appointed for our +start, we set off without him. And in fact there was little need of his +services on that day, our march being through a section of the island +already cleared of Spanish troops, and exceedingly slow and wearisome, +besides. + +The route from Yauco to Sabana Grande lies for some two miles along the +level and creditable road leading to Guanica, suddenly going off at right +angles just beyond a picturesque sugar-mill into as uneven, crooked, and +hilly a highway as can well be imagined. + +I cannot tell you in adequate language just how the tropical sun punishes +the unacclimated Northerner, especially if he be a foot-soldier tramping +along in a blinding dust, parched of throat, empty of belly, and loaded +down with a pack that would make a quartermaster's mule to fake the +glanders. If you have been there, it needs no words of mine to galvanize +your memory; and, if you have not, you cannot understand. This matter of +the soldier's pack and what to do with it became a subject of serious +consideration during the recent war, in both Cuba and Puerto Rico. On the +march, in the charge or pursuit or retreat, it is a senseless, clogging, +spirit-shackling incubus, a rank absurdity, and an utter impossibility. As +a result, after three days of active campaign the infantryman is seen gayly +stalking along with no burden save his rifle, ammunition-belt, and a wisp +of gray blanket, which seems to me to be a fatuous and footless condition +of affairs that might well be quickly remedied for the benefit of all +concerned. + +[Illustration: Plaza Principal, Mayaguez. A Public Celebration of the New +Flag's Advent, under the Auspices of the Local School-teachers and their +Pupils.] + +As we passed the occasional little hacienda, set in its grove of cocoanut +palms or orange-trees, dusky and wrinkled women came forth from the doors, +bearing upon their heads huge jars, from which we filled our ever-parched +canteens with cool, sweet water. They also brought us mangoes and other +native fruits, and queer cigars of most abominable flavor. Because we were +forbidden to eat of the fruit, we stuffed ourselves with it, and looked for +more. From time to time a weary or sick soldier would lay himself down by +the roadside, to be picked up later on by an ambulance; but, as the day +wore on, the intervals of rest grew longer and more frequent. We had but +one opportunity to water the sweating horses of the artillery, and then it +was a painful matter of buckets. We munched hard-tack for our noonday meal, +and made merry over it, talking of the day when we should go home and feast +on beans and beefsteak and countless other things of which the heathen +wot not. We were intensely voluble or silent by turns, and invented new +nicknames for each other, which were so apt, spite of being touched with +bitterness, that they stuck forevermore. And never, so far as I can +remember, did any one mention the "Maine" or Cuba Libre. + +At last, shortly after sunset, we descended a long, steep hillside, and +went into camp in the valley of the Rio Grande, just without the gates of a +small town, uninteresting in character, and Sabana Grande by name. We had +marched only twelve miles, but were hungry, limp, and ugly. So, having +crammed down a hasty supper of nothing in particular, we made short shift +of absent tents, and, pulling our blankets to our chins, lay face upward +to the stars that made us homesick, and slept the sleep of tired little +children. + +I was wakened in the middle of the night by a distant jangle of sabres and +rattle of hooves. Seeing our officer of the day, Lieutenant R.E. Callan, +standing not far away and looming gigantic against the sky, I asked him the +meaning of the noise; and he replied that it was Captain Macomb's troop +of cavalry just coming in. I lit my pipe and talked for a while with the +lieutenant of other things than war--Maude Adams and John Drew, football, +ambition, and books--till finally he went away to make his rounds. My pipe +went out, and I dreamed of stranger happenings than my longest thoughts +could fashion in the glare of day. And, when I woke again, reveille was +soaring from post to post. + +[Illustration: The Plaza of San German on Market-day.] + + + +CHAPTER III + +The People of Puerto Rico + +_Their attitude toward the invading Americans_--_The proclamation of +General Miles_--_justice and the private soldier_--_Depravity of the +native masses_--_Men and women of the better class_--_Local attributes of +life_--_A hint to the weary._ + + +Before proceeding further with the story of our advance, it may interest +you to know what manner of people we found the Puerto Ricans to be, and how +they behaved toward us who came to them as dogs of war. + +When we were first on the island, there is no doubt that the mass of the +population regarded us with acute distrust, if not with dislike and fear. +But the prompt measures taken by General Miles to disabuse their minds of +any preconceived ideas of ensuing rape, robbery, or desecration, did +much to soothe the more ignorant and childish of the natives, while the +intelligent and educated class needed no further assurance than that +contained in the proclamation issued by the commanding general from Ponce +on the 28th of July, which was as follows:-- + +TO THE INHABITANTS OF PUERTO RICO: + +In the prosecution of the war against the kingdom of Spain by the people +of the United States, in the cause of liberty, justice, and humanity, its +military forces have come to occupy the island of Puerto Rico. They come +bearing the banner of freedom, inspired by a noble purpose to seek the +enemies of our country and yours, and to destroy or capture all who are in +armed resistance. They bring you the fostering arm of a free people, whose +greatest power is in its justice and humanity to all those living within +its fold. Hence the first effect of this occupation will be the immediate +release from your former relations, and it is hoped a cheerful acceptance +of the government of the United States. The chief object of the American +military forces will be to overthrow the armed authority of Spain, and to +give the people of your beautiful island the largest measure of liberty +consistent with this occupation. We have not come to make war upon the +people of a country that for centuries has been oppressed, but, on the +contrary, to bring you protection, not only to yourselves, but to your +property; to promote your prosperity, and bestow upon you the immunities +and blessings of the liberal institutions of our government. It is not our +purpose to interfere with any existing laws and customs that are wholesome +and beneficial to your people so long as they conform to the rules of +military administration of order and justice. This is not a war of +devastation, but one to give all within the control of its military and +naval forces the advantages and blessings of enlightened civilization. + +NELSON A. MILES, + +_Major-General, Commanding United States Army_. + +[Illustration: Lower Quarter of Mayaguez.] + +The promises set forth in this document were kept to the letter. Indeed, +Justice sat up so straight for the people of Puerto Rico that she often +toppled over backward and crushed the American soldier. To steal anything, +from a kiss to a cow, was almost a capital offence; while houses and +churches might have been lined with gold and jasper, or infected with the +small-pox, so stringently were we kept out of them--at least during the +hostile period. + +This was all a mighty good thing for somebody, no doubt, but it detracted +in large chunks from the glamour of war for the soldier-boy; and I fear +that the majority of us felt hurt, if not sorely cheated. Nor is it at +all certain that the average inhabitant of Puerto Rico is worth coddling, +protection, prosperity, "and the immunities and blessings" accorded him by +his new rulers. A thick, stout cudgel or a bright, sharp axe will be more +effective than honeyed words in helping him cheerfully to assimilate new +ideas; though no one will believe it here at home until the hurrah is all +over and some of the truth gets into general circulation. + +[Illustration: A Mid-section of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez.] + +About one-sixth of the population in this island--the educated class, and +chiefly of pure Spanish blood--can be set down as valuable acquisitions to +our citizenship and the peer, if not the superior, of most Americans in +chivalry, domesticity, fidelity, and culture. Of the rest, perhaps one-half +can be moulded by a firm hand into something approaching decency; but the +remainder are going to give us a great deal of trouble. They are ignorant, +filthy, untruthful, lazy, treacherous, murderous, brutal, and black Spain +has kept her hand at their throats for many weary years, and the only thing +that has saved them from being throttled is the powerful influence in +their discipline effected by the Roman Catholic Church. When our zealous +missionaries have succeeded in leading them into the confines of other +creeds, we shall have all the excitement we want in Puerto Rico, and the +part of our army stationed there will have no lack of exercise. + +Despite a common belief to the contrary, the color-line is drawn as +rigidly in Puerto Rico as it is in Kentucky. The people having nothing but +Castilian blood in their veins are as proud as Virtue; and, while politics +and business see a certain mingling of skin-colors, the mixture ceases to +exist across the threshold of home. No true Spaniard would permit himself +to sing of his "coal-black lady" or his "cute little yallar gal"; and, if +he did, he would be ostracized. + +The women are all very pretty or extremely ugly, and never simply plain. +The girls of the better class are brought up from babyhood under a constant +surveillance that knows no laxity until after marriage, and does not +altogether cease even then. The growing bud is taught to play the piano or +guitar, to embroider, to sing a little, to dance a little less, to speak +and read French, to powder her face with art, and to walk like a very +queen. She is usually married before she is seventeen, especially if her +father has money; and, until the day of her death, she never sees a modern +newspaper, never goes slumming, and never soils her gentle hands with work +of any degree. She is apt to love her husband devotedly, and does not think +her career fitly rounded until she is a mother. + +[Illustration: Positions occupied by Spanish Soldiers in the Skirmish at +Hormigueros.] + +The men of the same social footing are not so interesting--to me; but, +nevertheless, they possess many characteristics which claim attention and +deserve applause. They are never drunkards or wife-beaters; they don't drag +their business to the dinner-table and bed; they are not given to profane +speech; and they show greater interest in a sonnet than in the price of +pork. + +Life for both sexes and all grades in Puerto Rico is a rose, a kiss, and +a cigarette; song, laughter, and manana. The island is, unequivocally, a +Paradise; and, if I remember rightly, dwellers in Paradise are not expected +to labor. These people amply fulfill the expectation. + +If you are sick of the worry and fret and jar of contemporaneous life here +at home, if you care for wide, sweet blue sky, eternal flowers, crystal +fountains, and gypsy music, then there is no better place for you to go +than to Puerto Rico. Take a bicycle and ride from Ponce around the island +or straight across to San Juan. You will find the roads, when there are +roads, superlatively excellent--particularly, if you do not mind an +occasional hill or sharp and sudden shower of rain. The larger cities all +have comfortable hotels; and, if you can afford to stay a month in Ponce, +Mayaguez, and San Juan, you will bring back fragrant memories that will +last you many years, or else you will send for your household gods and not +come back at all. And, if you don't ride a bicycle, you will be able to get +just as much pleasure from the toy railroad or wee horses when you travel +about from place to place, while the expense in either case will be +marvellously small. + +[Illustration: Railroad from Mayaguez to Aguadilla.] + + + +CHAPTER IV + +The Second Day Begins + +_We march to San German_--_Removal of the sick from the ambulances_--_An +approaching Spanish force_--_Our scouts and their leader_--_Concerning +Senor Fijardo_--_Visible effects of imminent battle_--_Something about the +town of San German_. + + +At eight o'clock in the morning on the 10th of August General Schwan's +brigade broke camp at Sabana Grande, and moved out on the road to San +German. The order of march differed from that of the day before only in the +presence of the troop of cavalry; and, the command being well rested, such +progress was made that the advance-guard reached the western side of San +German by noon--a good ten miles. The main body halted at the same hour +just outside the eastern entrance to the town, preparing a makeshift meal; +and at this point the sick, both on their own account and to make room in +the already crowded ambulances, were transferred to a private hospital. + +Before quitting San German, word was brought to the commanding general +that the entire Mayaguez garrison--some 1,362 men, chiefly regulars--was +marching in our direction, and would contest our advance. This information, +which proved to be correct, was at once communicated to the cavalry and +advance-guard, with orders to proceed with the greatest care, and to reduce +somewhat the distances ordinarily separating the different parts of the +column. + +Our source of information at this and other important times was a small +body of native scouts, numbering from 6 to 11 men and commanded by Lugo +Vina, a swarthy, wizened little Puerto Rican, who looked like General Gomez +and was taciturn as an Indian. He was considered by General Schwan to be +a man of great character and force. These scouts were well mounted, and +accompanied the brigade during its entire march, rendering most important +and efficient service. Three of them were arrested as spies by Spanish +officials between Las Marias and Mayaguez, and narrowly escaped being shot. +Eventually, they suffered nothing worse than imprisonment for several +months at San Juan; and, when the Evacuation Commission arranged for their +release, the United States reimbursed them to the full extent of their +wages for the period of their captivity. + +[Illustration: The Theatre, Mayaguez.] + +For the position of "alcade" or Mayor of the city of Mayaguez General +Schwan had a most difficult task. + +Someone thoroughly acquainted with the country and its people was wanted +and the selection fell to a prosperous planter residing within the +jurisdiction of Mayaguez--who had been--while not properly speaking, a +scout--was yet of considerable service to General Schwan as an interpreter +and guide up to the taking of Mayaguez. And because he had in addition been +exceedingly useful to our government before the actual breaking out of the +war, it was the wish of General Miles to confer upon him some suitable +reward immediately hostilities were suspended. General Schwan was prepared +to make this appointment, but so strong an opposition to the plan sprang +spontaneously from the inhabitants of the municipality most interested that +the appointment was held up. + +After a careful consideration of all the remonstrances and the strenuous +denial by the candidate of all and every allegation and his desire that +the promised honor be conferred upon him at once and without delay, it was +decided by General Schwan that in the face of so much opposition there was +nothing to do but to leave the residents of Mayaguez to decide the question +for themselves which they did in a most emphatic manner by refusing to +endorse the planter as a possibility, and presenting the name of Senor +Santiago Palmer as an acceptable party. + +This latter gentleman subsequently received the appointment, which was +satisfactory to all concerned. + + * * * * * + +The news that we were about to meet the Spanish forces face to face spread +rapidly among the men in the ranks, and aroused more enthusiasm than +terrapin and champagne could have done. Nobody any longer complained of the +heat; and, when it began to shower by fits and starts, nobody complained of +that, either. There were no more stragglers casting a windward eye to an +empty ambulance, nor growls because we pressed forward so rapidly. + +[Illustration: Custom-house at Mayaguez occupied by General Schwan as +Brigade Headquarters.] + +On that particular afternoon I was with the advance-guard; and, when we had +learned what we might expect before sunset, I studied the men about me with +a lively curiosity as to what effect the probability of immediate action +would have upon their visible emotions. + +Most of them, in our platoon of artillery at least, were boys, or little +more than boys, and almost without exception recruits of less than six +months' standing. It might have been expected that some degree of +gravity would have crept over them in the nearness of such unpleasant +possibilities; but never were they more gay and care-free, to all +appearance. Old jests already worn to shreds before we left the transport +at Guanica were once more revived, and capered with new life. Good-natured +irony flew from lip to lip in fantastic speculation as to probable +promotions in case all the officers should be killed at the first go-off. +The horses were told, individually and with great tenderness, just what +every man expected of them in the approaching crisis. And no comrade gave +another any instructions regarding mother or the girl at home, if he were +to bite the dust. For my own part, I found my mind so busy in going over +the cadences of a waltz I had danced with Somebody months before that I +could not bring myself to consider anything else but the beauty of its +refrain--or was it Her eyes?--try as I might. And, besides, it is not +profitable to shake hands with the devil until you are within reach of his +claw. + +[Illustration: Road from Mayaguez to Anasco.] + +The wagon-road leading from San German, over which we were now marching, +follows the valley of the Rio Grande, whose flats, varying in width from a +few hundred to a thousand yards, extend on each side to a chain of hills. +On either hand, in the immediate distance, are fields of sugar-cane, +bounded wherever they touch the road by wire fences. + +San German, the city through which we had just passed, is a place of nearly +10,000 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction numbering 30,600. It has three +very fine markets, a charity hospital, a seminary, good school buildings, +theatre, and casino. There is a railroad in construction, a post-office and +telegraph station. It is situated on a long, uneven hill, at the foot of +which lies the beautiful valley of the Juanjibos and Boqueron Rivers, +which is made a veritable garden of enchantment by the orange, lemon, +and tamarind trees, together with various other plants, growing there in +abundance. The town was founded in 1511 by Captain Miguel Toro, and has +borne the title of city since 1877. The principal streets are called Luna +and Comercio. Its chief plaza is of notable size, its church is quite +regular in architecture, though of old construction, and the barracks of +the infantry and civil guard merit mention. Finally, it may be said that +its citizens have held a distinguished record for bravery and patriotism +ever since their decisive victory over the English forces in 1743. + +[Illustration: Lower End of the Calle de Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez.] + + + +CHAPTER V + +The Engagement at Hormigueros + +_Topography of the battlefield_--_Macomb's cavalry fired into by Spanish +skirmishers_--_Our advance-guard comes into contact with the foe_--_General +Schwan reaches the firing line_--_The main body arrives and joins in the +fray_--_Subsequent manoeuvres of our column_--_The Spanish retreat_--_A +computation of losses_. + + +The ensuing account of our fight with the Alphonso XIII Regiment of +Cazadores, on the 10th of August, is taken bodily from the official report +made by General Schwan to Major-General Miles under date of August 21:-- + +At a distance of about seven miles from Mayaguez the Rio Rosario, coming +from the east, parallels the road for nearly a mile, and empties into the +Rio Grande just south of Hormigueros. A sugar-mill stands just off the road +to the left; and a wagon-road branches off to the right, lined with hedge +and brush, and, crossing the Rosario on an iron bridge, leads to the hamlet +of Hormigueros, which is located on a side hill 1,500 yards from the main +road. The ground to the south of Hormigueros is covered with banana groves +and cane fields. At about 600 yards from where the Hormigueros road leaves +the main road the latter crosses the Rio Grande on a wooden bridge. Just +beyond this bridge the road to Cabo Rojo branches off to the south. From +this point, for nearly a mile, the main road passes through very low, flat +ground, cut up with deep furrows, which extend to the hills on the left +and the river on the right, and contain considerable water from recent +rains.... To resume the narrative of the day's events, near a point on the +main road where it is flanked by sugar-mills our cavalry was fired into, +though without effect, by the enemy's scouts, who were concealed behind a +hedge lining the Hormigueros road. They were easily dispersed. The infantry +and advance-guard having passed this point, the cavalry took the latter +road, and, crossing the Rosario, turned westward, and advanced under cover +of the railroad embankment until--taking every opportunity to damage the +enemy by its fire action--it reached a position beyond the covered wooden +bridge. + +[Illustration: Guenar Bridge, Mayaguez.] + +The brigade commander had left San German at the head of the main body. +When he heard the firing in his front, he sent word to commanding officers +to advance without further halt, and to keep their commands closed up. +Similar orders were sent to the train. He was informed and approved of +the route taken by the cavalry before reaching the bridge. He crossed the +latter about half-past three o'clock, being at that time about 500 yards in +advance of the main body. + +[Illustration: Upper End of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez.] + +A staff officer, who had been sent ahead to select camp, reported at this +time the ground west of the Cabo Rojo road as suitable for this purpose; +but owing to the suspected proximity of the enemy, whose position had not +yet been determined, it was decided to push ahead and beyond the iron +bridge. This, despite the fact that the men had now marched 13 miles and +were very tired. Once in possession of the bridge and the high ground to +the north of it, the command would occupy a strong position, which +would make it hard to check its advance on Mayaguez. Accordingly, the +advance-guard, under Captain Hoyt, moved forward, deploying its advance +party as skirmishers and its supports into a line of squads. In this +formation it continued until it had approached the bridge within about 400 +yards. At this juncture the enemy opened fire, at first individual fire. +The firing aimed at the advance-guard accelerated the march of the Eleventh +Infantry, which ... reported to the brigade commander, whose staff had +already commenced the demolition of the wire fences enclosing the road. +About the time that the brigade commander caused the deployment of +two companies to re-enforce the advance-guard,--Major Gilbraith in +command,--the enemy, from his position in the hills to the right front, +fired volleys at the main body through the interval separating the infantry +advance-guard from the cavalry, wounding a number of men, also an officer +and several horses of the brigade staff. Meanwhile the artillery battalion, +under the authority of the brigade commander, had taken up a position +to the left of the road. As the powder used by the enemy was absolutely +smokeless, and his position being, moreover, for the most part screened by +the trees along the Rio Grande, the question of the exact direction to be +given Major Gilbraith's detachment, and to the lines of battle about to be +formed from the main column, became a most perplexing one. Luckily, this +uncertainty did not last long, those of the enemy's bullets that struck the +ground near us solving the problem. Some slight confusion was caused by +a premature and hurried deployment of the remaining companies, which +interfered somewhat with the brigade commander's intention of forming two +additional lines, one to support the fighting line and the other to act +as a reserve, or as the changing conditions of the combat might render +expedient. But under his supervision this defective formation was soon +rectified, three companies being placed on the right and four companies on +the left of the road, the former, under Lieutenant-Colonel Burke, moving +forward in support of Major Gilbraith, and the latter being held back for a +time. Major Gilbraith and Colonel Burke's troops, being unable to cross the +creek, passed over the bridge that spans it by the left flank, the former's +companies having previously occupied a sheltered place in a ditch parallel +to and to the right of the main road. About this time the advance-guard, +one of the companies of which (Penrose's) had previously held for a short +time a knoll on the left of the road, moved forward and crossed the iron +bridge, the advance sections of the companies being led by Lieutenants +Alexander and Wells, respectively. After ... a time the entire +advance-guard, including the two Gatling guns, was concentrated on the +right of the railroad. It dislodged the enemy, and with the cavalry troop +to the right,--the troop had arrived about this time, after doing effective +service in threatening the enemy's flank,--and with the companies of Major +Gilbraith pushed forward in the centre, took up a position on the northern +line of hills. Here they were rejoined by the infantry and by two pieces +of artillery under First Lieutenant Archibald Campbell, which the brigade +commander had ordered forward, and which by their fire added to the +discomfiture of the enemy. The two Gatling guns under Lieutenant Maginnis, +with the advance, did good work, at first in a place near the creek where +the gunners had a good view of the enemy, and later on at the various +positions of the advance-guard. The two guns from the main body were also +operated from the crest of the hill during the latter stage of the combat. + +[Illustration: The Town of Sabana Grande.] + +The affair ended about six o'clock; and the troops, including all the +artillery, bivouacked on or near the position occupied by the enemy. The +wagon train afterward went into park between the railroad and the Rio +Grande, near enough to enable the men to get what was necessary for their +comfort during the night. Before darkness set in, Captain Macomb with his +troop was directed to make an effort to capture a railway train in plain +sight from the hill occupied by the command; but the train got under way +before he could reach it. It also escaped some shots that were fired at it +by the artillery. Although it had now become quite dark, the captain picked +up a few prisoners, including a wounded lieutenant. + +The difficulty in locating the enemy, and hence in giving proper direction +to the attack formations, has already been alluded to. Another cause of +anxiety during the earlier stage of the fight were the reports that came to +the brigade commander from different parts of the field, through officers, +that the enemy was getting around our right (or left) flank, and +endeavoring to capture our train. There may have been some foundation for +these reports; but, if so, the flanking parties were probably small, and +deterred from pursuing their design by our steady advance. It may be added +that the train was well guarded. + +[Illustration: Witch River, near Cabo Rojo.] + +Our loss embraced 1 enlisted man killed and 1 officer and 15 men wounded. +All the wounded, the surgeons say, will recover. The enemy's loss cannot be +definitely ascertained, but it is estimated at 15 killed alone. It probably +did not fall short of 50 in killed and wounded. + +The command continued its march at an early hour the following morning, the +advance-guard and the main body proceeding slowly and with great caution. +This extra care was unnecessary. Those of the enemy's forces that were held +in reserve (some of them not far from the city) had fled precipitately as +soon as they realized the extent of their defeat. + +In connection with the foregoing report I consider the subjoined document +as being of interest:-- + + HEADQUARTERS UNITED STATES MILITARY + EXPEDITION IN CAMP AT MAYAGUEZ, + PUERTO RICO, Aug. 12, 1898. + + GENERAL ORDERS + No. 14. + +The brigadier-general commanding desires to convey to the officers and +soldiers of his command his thanks for their excellent conduct in the +engagement they had on the 10th instant, near the town of Hormigueros, with +the Spanish forces in that vicinity. Concealed in a strong position, they +poured a murderous fire into our troops about to go into camp after a +fatiguing march. Had the disposition of the cavalry screen and of the +advance-guard--which latter included both infantry and artillery--been less +perfect, or had the command been deficient in discipline or other soldierly +qualities, such an attack might have proved disastrous. As it was, it was +promptly and gallantly repulsed, the repulse resulting in the enemy's +precipitate evacuation of the city of Mayaguez, though it had been placed +in a state of defence. + +[Illustration: American Camp at Mayaguez.] + +The major-general commanding the army has been pleased to commend the +troops for their gallant action on this occasion,--a fact which it affords +the brigade commander genuine satisfaction to announce. + +By command of Brigadier-General Schwan. + +GROTE HUTCHESON, + +_Captain and Assistant Adjutant-General._ + + + +CHAPTER VI + +The Second Day Ends + +_A personal resume of the fight_--_Lack of melodramatic accompaniments_--_A +lost chance of glory_--_Another neglected opportunity_--_A glimpse of the +flag_--_Once more into camp_. + + +At the risk of being considered tautological, I cannot refrain from +devoting another chapter to the Hormigueros fight: first, because it was my +initial experience under fire; and, second, because there are more things +in a soldier's memory than are set forth in the official report of his +commanding general. + +[Illustration: Plaza Mercado, Mayaguez.] + +Our advance-guard, after leaving San German, marched rapidly along the +level road leading to Mayaguez until about three o'clock in the afternoon. +As the head of our column came into view, the country people living along +the route gathered their most precious possessions into huge bundles, and +hurried away across the fields,--a sure sign that we were approaching the +enemy's position. At the hour mentioned we were suddenly set upon by a +blinding shower, and a halt was made for about fifteen minutes, when, the +fury of the downpour having somewhat abated, we once more began to move +ahead. The cavalry had gone off on a side road for some purpose not known +to me, and the infantry was deployed in long lines to the right and left, +while the artillery brought up the rear at an interval of about a hundred +yards. At half-past three the skirmishers came to the Rio Rosario, but, +being unable to ford it, were called back to the road and started across +the iron bridge, already described by General Schwan. It was at this moment +that the Spanish forces opened fire, concealed in a dense undergrowth about +500 yards in our front. + +All jammed together as we were, it would seem that we might have been +absolutely slaughtered by the leaden hail which was poured in upon us; and +the only explanation of our marvellous immunity probably lies in the fact +that the enemy were surprisingly bad shots. Bullets whistled by our heads, +or kicked up the dirt at our feet; but, though the pop of rifles made up a +continuous sound like the opening of a hundred thousand beer-bottles, not a +vestige of smoke rose in the clear air, not a patch of hostile uniform was +to be seen. + +For some reason our infantry did not at once reply to the Spanish +fusillade; and during this brief interval two men and two horses were +wounded in the platoon of artillery which stood idly just behind the +foot-soldiers,--too close, in fact, to be of any service, and in the way +of everybody. Then the two Gatling guns under Lieutenant Maginnis went off +into the field at our right, where they began to speak for themselves; and +Gatling guns in action have a mighty cheerful effect upon your nerves, +if they happen to be on your side of the fracas. Next, an order from the +general sent the artillery galloping to the rear for about an eighth of a +mile, where, after a short detour to the left and a mad race across swampy, +ditch-dug fields, it took up a temporary position on a convenient knoll. +The main body of our command had meanwhile arrived, and got into the row +without ceremony, the firing now being heavy on both sides. My memory +serves me with no clear impression of the sequence of events after this +period. + +[Illustration: Mouth of the Mayaguez River.] + +During the first hour of our fighting all the powder used by us was as +smokeless as that of the foe, and again and again the remark was passed +that this did not seem like the real business of war. In other respects +as well there were few of the accompaniments that we conjure up in our +stay-at-home imagination of battle scenes. There was a little galloping of +hooves, not long sustained; an occasional sharp cry of command or sharper +oath; an intermittent rumble and jar from the infrequently moved artillery, +not yet in action; and perhaps a groan or two from the wounded. But, even +when the field-rifles began to boom and shroud the landscape in drifting +smoke, the make-believe aspect of the affair did not in any degree +diminish. There were no clouds of dust, no heaps of slain, no cheers, no +desperate charges, and not even a glimpse of the stars and stripes. Away +to our right we could see crowds of spectators on the elevated platform +surrounding the Sanctuary of Montserrate; and I remember thinking it was +well no admission fee had been charged for the spectacle upon which they +gazed, else they would have murmured themselves defrauded. + +[Illustration: A Bit of Yauco.] + +My own most thrilling moments came about in this way: The platoon of +artillery to which I belonged had, as already related, decided that its +position directly behind the hotly beset infantry was untenable, and +consequently fell back at speed, for some distance. Standing at the head of +the first piece, with all my faculties engrossed by the scene before me, I +did not hear the order which should have sent me scampering to my seat on +the limber-chest, and so suddenly found myself alone, with my comrades +mounted and away in full career. A glance about me disclosed the fact that +no other living thing was standing up within a radius of five hundred +yards. I was a conspicuous mark for the eager slayers in the adjacent +underbrush; and I ought, of course, to rejoin my section as quickly as +possible. So I ran. It occurred to me that here was my chance to show what +I was made of. I would stop running, fill and light my pipe, and stalk in +a leisurely manner down the white road, thus winning, perhaps, comment +and applause from high places. I say all this occurred to me; but I also +happened to recollect the story told of the survivor of Bull Run, who +replied to a sneering criticism anent the Federal retreat from that famous +field by the sententious rejoinder that "all them as didn't run was there +yet,"--and I felt that I could fully appreciate the point. So I continued +to sprint as fast as I could, leaving the bubble Reputation for other +seekers, or for myself upon some other day and field. I was not afraid, and +I was simply doing my duty; but I sometimes think that I may have neglected +the flood-tide of opportunity, and I often wonder why, in melodramatic +crises, a man's mind is not always able to control his legs. + +I was not alone in the disregard of romantic possibilities. Later in the +afternoon I saw a wounded private propped up against a fence, and bleeding +copiously from a bullet-hole that extended through both cheeks. His eyes +were closed, and he was making queer noises in his throat. As I happened to +be idle at the instant, I stepped to his side, and inquired compassionately +if I could do anything for him. He opened his eyes with a jerk, spat forth +a couple of teeth, and replied: "If you'll tell me how the beginning of +'Sweet Marie' goes, I'll give you a piece of my face for a souvenir. I've +been trying to get that blame tune straight for the last fifteen minutes, +but keep getting off my trolley." And he laughed a ghastly laugh. I stared +at him in amazement, and then, seeing that he was not delirious, strode +moodily away. What that man ought to have said was, "How goes the fight?" +or "A drop of water, for God's sake"; but it is the painful truth that he +didn't. + +[Illustration: Wooden Dock at Mayaguez. In the Offing can be seen the +German Man-of-war "Geier."] + +A striking feature of the engagement was the thoroughly matter-of-fact +manner in which both officers and men went about their work. There was no +strutting, no posing, no shirking, but an evident intention on the part +of all concerned, from General Schwan down, to do whatever had to be done +without unnecessary fuss and feathers, promptly and well. I have seen far +more excitement displayed on an ordinary drill-ground at home, in the +piping times of peace. + +A sudden appearance of the flag just after the trumpets had sounded "cease +firing" brought moisture to the eyes of many a toughened veteran; but even +then, with victory still glowing in our grasp, there was not the ghost of a +cheer. We were simply more tired and hungry than usual, and until matters +had been straightened out for the night had no time for sentiment. And, +when we finally went into camp on the very field where we had just ceased +fighting, we found our chief interest centred in hot coffee, crisp +hard-tack, and comfortable blankets. We had begun to realize that we might +have lain stiffer and starker that night but for the whim of chance, and +were silent with the clacking tongue. + + * * * * * + +Hormigueros, the village which gave its name to this engagement, is a place +of about 3,000 inhabitants, whose houses cluster about the base of the +mountain crowned by the Sanctuary of Montserrate. This church is visited by +an endless stream of pilgrims, and many wild legends are told concerning +it. + + +[Illustration: "Eleventh of August" Street.] + + + +CHAPTER VII + +The Occupation of Mayaguez + +_We enter the city in triumph--An enthusiastic reception--A pretty girl +and the star-spangled banner--Other memorable incidents--Our rags and +tatters--A description of Mayaguez--We pitch our tents in a swamp--The +First Kentucky Volunteers._ + + +As early as half-past eight on the following morning--August 11--our scouts +entered the city of Mayaguez, some three or four miles distant from our +camp of the night before. About an hour later Captain Macomb marched his +troop through the streets, accompanied by the brigade headquarters staff. +Many prominent citizens greeted General Schwan at the Casa del Rey, and +declared themselves subject to his orders. + +At eleven o'clock the entire brigade entered Mayaguez, with the general +riding at its head, colors flying, and band playing. + +We had been through this triumphal entry business several times before; but +I, for one, never grew tired of it. It was for all the world like being in +the procession of a great circus. The sidewalks, balconies, windows, and +roof-tops were packed with wide-eyed humanity, of all ages and conditions, +hues, sizes, and degrees of beauty. At every street corner, and in every +square, great crowds of the lower classes rent the air with vivas and +bravos, regulating their enthusiasm by the size of the guns that swung past +them. It is easy enough for some grades of mankind to cheer with frenzy the +appearance of a victor, no matter who he be; and a Chinese host would +have been received with just as much acclaim as we were, had they come as +conquering heroes. The houses of the aristocrats sent us no demonstration +of feeling one way or the other, with a single startling and highly +dramatic exception. We had turned from the Calle Mirasol into the Calle +Candalaria, and the head of the column had almost reached the Plaza +Principal. The band had just crashed into "The Stars and Stripes Forever." +Suddenly the crowd on an upper balcony of a stately house to the left was +seen to sway violently; and a moment later a beautiful young girl, tears +streaming from her eyes, leant far out over the rail, and waved a crudely +made Old Glory over the ragged ranks below. For a breath we were struck +dumb by this apparition. Then every hat came off; and for the first time +that day we split the heavens with a cheer,--lustily and long. The outbreak +was infectious, and from every side the clamor swelled and burst till it +seemed as if the universe had vaulted into mad tumult at the touch of a +girl's hand. Her name was Catalina Palmer, and she has since married an +American lieutenant. But that, as Kipling would say, is another story. + +[Illustration: The Officers of the Alphonso XIII Regiment of Cazadores, +taken a few days before the Fight with the American Troops at Hormigueros.] + +At one corner a richly dressed old woman threw handful after handful +of small silver coins among us. In several places we trod upon great +quantities of flowers thrown in our path by peasant girls. The flags of +England, Germany, France, and Italy, were everywhere to be seen. The +quaintly uniformed corps of firemen turned out in splendor to do us honor, +and we saluted with grave dignity the immense statue of Columbus standing +in the centre of the town. By those who entered Mayaguez that day none of +these things will ever be forgotten. + +From a spectacular point of view I am inclined to believe that Kiralfy +would have regarded us with scorn and derision, though Jack Falstaff +might have been better pleased. We were gaunt, bronzed, and dishevelled, +unshaven, dirty, and tattered. Toes protruded from shoes, our hats were +full of holes, our trousers hardly deserved the name, and we limped +disgracefully. It was the popular impression in Puerto Rico that every +American soldier was a full-fledged millionaire, but even they expressed +some disappointment at our evident disregard for the external superfluities +of elegance. But, when you stop to consider it, we did not go to the +Antilles to make love to the pretty girls. We were quite sufficiently +clothed and fed to march through tropical underbrush, take several cities, +and put our more gaudily equipped enemies to ignominious flight. And that +is what we were there for. + +[Illustration: The Military Hospital, Mayaguez.] + +In the early part of the afternoon we went into camp about a mile and a +half outside the city lines, and the main body remained here until August +13. The camping-ground was a bad one, lying as it did in a bowl formed by a +circle of low hills; and it was soaked and spongy to a degree approaching +absolute swampiness. As we were not allowed to go into the city, we +grudgingly sat still, and chanted our misery to the unresponsive +wilderness, getting our feet wet and gathering the frolicsome malaria germ +by way of interlude. + +On the evening of our arrival a transport steamed into the bay, having on +board the First Kentucky Volunteers, who for some weeks afterward were +quartered in the town, doing provost duty and breaking hearts. Later on we +came to know them well; and, when they marched away to Ponce, we missed +them sadly. They had lots of money, and they spent it freely. We of the +regular brigade had not been paid for three months. + + * * * * * + +Mayaguez is a darling little city on the western coast of Puerto Rico,--a +place of lattices, balconies, and walled-in gardens ablaze with blossoms. +Behind it lies a semicircle of green hills, and before it is the laughing +sea. Columbus touched here in one of his earlier voyages, and historical +associations have been accumulating ever since. + +It is the third largest town on the island, having a population of 25,000, +the majority of whom are white. The harbor is next best to that at +San Juan,--102 miles distant,--and is an open roadstead formed by two +projecting capes. It is a seaport of considerable commerce, and +exports sugar, coffee, oranges, pineapples, and cocoanuts in large +quantities,--principally, with the exception of coffee, to the United +States. Of industry not much can be said, save that there are three +manufactories of chocolate, solely for local consumption. The climate is +excellent, the temperature never exceeding 90 deg. F. + +[Illustration: Part of the Village of Maricao.] + +The city is connected by tramway with the neighboring town of Aguadilla, +and by railroad with Lares on one side and Hormigueros on the other. It +has a civil and military hospital, two asylums, a public library, three +bridges, a handsome market,--the best on the island, constructed entirely +of iron and stone, at a cost of 70,000 pesos,--a slaughter-house, a +theatre, a casino, and a number of societies of instruction, recreation, +and commerce. It also has a post-office and telegraph station; was founded +in 1760, and given the title of city in 1877. + +A river called the Mayaguez divides the town into two parts, connected by +two pretty iron bridges named Marina and Guenar, respectively. The sands of +this river formerly yielded much gold; and there is gold still to be had +from the same source, if one has energy enough to seek it. There are no +less than 37 streets and 4 squares,--the Principal, Mercado, Iglesia, and +Teatro,--all adorned by dainty fountains, and, in one instance,--the Plaza +del Teatro,--a veritable ocean of flowers as well. The Calle Mendez-Vigo +is one of the most picturesque and attractive streets in the world. It +stretches from one end of the town to the other, wide and beautifully +clean; and it is lined on either hand by the handsome houses of rich +merchants. In the middle of its length lies the Plaza del Flores, between +the theatre and the Hotel Paris. Moreover, it is in the Calle Mendez-Vigo +that there lives the prettiest girl in Puerto Rico,--a little maid of +sixteen years, Esperanza Bages by name, and already famous for her charms. + +The church was built in 1760. It is of masonry, with two towers and +magnificent altars. The town hall, situated on the Plaza Principal, is a +good stone building of two stories. Annexed to it is the Casa del Rey, +built in 1832, and serving for offices of the military commandancy. The +infantry barracks--Cuartel del Infanteria--is also a building of modern +construction, dating from 1848; and, though of simple architecture, it is +very capacious. + +And now let us leave Mayaguez for a little while, and get on with the war. + +[Illustration: Infantry Barracks, Mayaguez.] + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +The Engagement at Las Marias + +_Difficulties encountered in locating the retreating enemy_--_Final +determination upon pursuit_--_Lieutenant-Colonel Burke sets +forth_--_Discovery of Spanish troops near Las Marias_--_A one-sided +encounter_--_Unwelcome notification of truce_--_The rest of the brigade +comes up_--_Feeding the prisoners_--_Our disappointment_. + + +HEADQUARTERS INDEPENDENT BRIGADE (REGULARS), + +MAYACUEZ, PUERTO RICO, + +Aug. 22, 1898. + +GENERAL J.C. GILMORE, Headquarters of the Army, Ponce, P.R. + +_Sir_,--... Detachments from the cavalry troop went out (from Mayaguez) in +the afternoon of the 11th on both roads leading to Lares; but the left hand +or westerly of these roads was followed only a short distance, information, +thought to be reliable, having been received to the effect that the bulk of +the enemy's force had taken the more easterly road, on which the town of +Maricao is situated. This part of the force was reported as making fair +headway, having only a pack-train as transportation. Reports also came to +brigade headquarters that Spanish troops in large numbers, coming from +different places,--including Aguadilla and Pepino,--were concentrating to +attack my command. While not impressed with the accuracy of these reports, +I had the outposts strengthened, and placed a field officer in charge of +them. A party from the outposts, sent to reconnoitre the Las Marias road, +brought word on the afternoon of the 12th that the rear-guard of the +Spanish was still within five miles of Mayaguez, and proceeding slowly. + +[Illustration: The Rosario River, near Hormigueros.] + +I immediately determined to pursue and, if possible, to capture or destroy +this force, and at first resolved to move out with the entire command. +On reflection, however, I realized that there were objections to such a +course. The city and surrounding country were in an unsettled and excited +state, the latter swarming with guerillas, deserters, and bushwackers. I +had no accurate knowledge of the spirit, strength, and location of the +enemy's forces, supposed to be within easy reach of Mayaguez. Then, too, +the rest of my command, already worn down by the exhausting marches and +operations beginning on the 9th, had been seriously broken in upon by +heavy outpost duty and drenching rains, which latter had made their camp a +veritable mud-hole. Furthermore, the road to Lares, except for the first +eight miles out, was said to be all but impassable for wheeled vehicles; +and this reminded me that the major-general commanding had intimated that +I might have to go to Lares by way of Aguadilla. I therefore concluded +to despatch a reconnoissance in force, under Lieutenant-Colonel Burke, +Eleventh Infantry, to harass the enemy and to retard its progress in every +way. The detachment was made up of six companies of infantry and one +platoon each of cavalry and artillery, and started at ten o'clock A.M. on +August 12. It was given ample transportation for its three days' rations +and the infantrymen's packs. It was therefore as mobile as it could be +made without a pack-train. Hindered by excessive heat, followed by heavy +showers, it marched only to a point where the two roads, above mentioned, +are joined by a cross-road,--or about nine miles. I did not hear from +Colonel Burke during the night, as I had hoped to; and the remainder of my +command had its wagons packed, and was preparing to pull out on the morning +of the 13th, when a courier came to me from him with a report of the +difficulties that had retarded his progress, and of the presence of a +Spanish force near Las Marias, variously estimated at from 1,200 to 2,500. +This force, the colonel said, had taken up a defensive position; and he was +moving toward it... + +Respectfully submitted, + +THEODORE SCHWAN, _Brigadier-General Commanding_. + +[Illustration: A Street in San German.] + +MAYAGUEZ, PUERTO RICO, Aug. 16. + +_My dear Gilmore_,--Availing myself of the first breathing-spell I have had +for some time, I wish in this informal way and in advance of my regular +report to say a few words to the general and yourself regarding our last +Saturday's work (August 13). + +As soon as the result of the Hormigueros fight became known in +Mayaguez--about nine o'clock on the 10th--Colonel Soto, the commander, +"pulled up stakes." That the Spanish troops left in the greatest hurry the +condition of their barracks abundantly evidenced. Our advance-guard found +the city entirely clear of the Spanish, and I ordered my cavalry to keep +in touch with them. The cavalry took the right-hand road of the two roads +leading to Lares, over which some of the Spanish troops had actually gone; +and in the evening the troop commander reported that they were between +seven and ten miles off, and still retreating. My command was thoroughly +tired. No one without witnessing it can conceive the distress an infantry +soldier suffers while marching in this hot climate, in a deep column, +weighted down as he is even without his pack; and some rest seemed actually +imperative. But the next morning I found that the main body of the +Spanish had taken the westerly (or left hand) road to Lares, and early on +Friday--there being many other things to engage the attention of myself and +troops--I started Burke out in pursuit, with about 700 men, all told. I +overtook him Saturday morning about three and one-half miles north of +Las Marias. His infantry had pulled his guns over roads that were almost +perpendicular. His troops were exchanging shots at long range across a deep +valley with the retreating Spaniards, most of whom had forded (losing a lot +of men, who were drowned) a deep and rapid river known in that country +as the Rio Prieto. Our fire had already demoralized the thoroughly +disheartened and half-famished Spanish soldiers; and their rear-guard, at +least, was also disorganized and hiding in the hills. + +[Illustration: Tobacco Plantation (cutting leaves), Mayaguez.] + +A company of infantry I had sent out brought in, about ten o'clock in the +evening, forty odd prisoners, a number of pack-animals, etc. Our men were +thoroughly worn out by the day's work. Early the next morning I had four +companies of infantry, the cavalry, and two guns ready to resume the +pursuit. And there cannot be the shadow of a doubt that, had I had five +more hours, I should have taken Lares; for that the flying Spaniards had +prepared to abandon it at once I have the most reliable information. But +at this particular juncture the notice that hostilities would be suspended +came to me. No troops ever "suspended" with worse grace. We had given the +Spanish no peace, and had taken all the starch out of them. The colonel and +lieutenant-colonel had surrendered. Their troops were utterly demoralized +and disintegrated. It seemed a pity to deprive us of the full fruits of a +victory for which we had labored so hard; but of course we had to bow to +the inevitable. Please let the general read this. + +Faithfully your friend, + +THEO. SCHWAN. + +The part of our command left under Colonel DeRussy set out on the morning +of the 13th to join the rest of the column, whose movements you have +already followed in the preceding documents. The last detachment found it +no less difficult to make headway than had the first; and on the morning of +the 14th the entire brigade was so broken up and strung out that its head +and tail were a good nine miles apart. So much trouble had been experienced +in getting the artillery up the incredibly steep mountain-sides that no +one had been able to give assistance or even thought to the hopelessly +embarrassed wagon-train, and consequently we were practically without food +for over twenty-four hours. When at last something to eat did come plodding +along, we were obliged to put up with half-rations in order that our little +collection of recently acquired prisoners might be fed. At a conservative +estimate, those prisoners must have been the hungriest lot of men that ever +laid down their arms. There were less than sixty of them, and they drew +rations for about 1,200. However, they were fed; and we had the consolation +of realizing that victory, like some other things of less familiar +acquaintance, is its own reward. By noon on the 14th, everything was once +more in order; and I have not yet ceased to wonder how those in authority +managed to erase so quickly the chaos of the night before. + +[Illustration: The Plaza Principal in Mayaguez, looking toward the Church.] + +The engagement at Las Marias, while not particularly momentous in itself, +was note-worthy as being the last between our forces and those of Spain +during the recent war. I do not believe that the knowledge of this +fact--even had we possessed it at the time--would have materially consoled +us for the disappointment we felt in being obliged to stop shooting just +when we had learned to do it so beautifully; but, still, it is something to +have been in at the finish. + + + +CHAPTER IX + +The Territory Won + +_General Schwan returns to Mayaguez_--_Business and pleasure_--_A custom +we abolished_--_Extent of the district captured by our brigade_ +--_Aguadllla_--_Facilities for transportation_--_Labor and +the laborer_--_The cost of living_--_Rents and real estate_--_Skilled +workmen_--_A word about investments_. + + +On August 16, in obedience to orders from Army Headquarters, General Schwan +left the bulk of his troops in the positions they had respectively occupied +at the time of the receipt of the truce, and, accompanied by the artillery, +returned to Mayaguez. The people of this city had not yet recovered from +the ferment into which they had been thrown by our advent, and went about +in a state of tremulous titillation, expecting I know not what. At any +rate, it did not seem to arrive; and after a day or two had passed without +any sign of fell intent upon our part the merchants allowed themselves to +be coaxed back into their places of business. The cafes were once more +thronged. Semi-weekly concerts were given in the Plaza Principal by the +band of the Eleventh Infantry and the Banda del Bomberos, in alternation. +Balls, dinner-parties, and flirtations resumed their interrupted course, +gathering new zest and brilliancy from the foreign element within the +gates. All the Americans began to study Spanish, and all the Puerto Ricans +to study English, without particularly gratifying results on either side. +Cocking-mains, local games of chance, and more hectic immoralities were set +forth for the delectation of the private soldiers; while I have personal +knowledge of at least one quasi-clandestine bullfight, that may be best +described as a furtive fizzle. + +Strict measures were taken by the brigade commander to prevent +anything resembling disorderly conduct among his men, and though these +laurel-crowned heroes, under the influence of a wonderfully cheap rum, were +seized at odd moments with an evident desire to start the war all over +again, there was not much difficulty encountered in maintaining a degree of +decorum that was highly satisfactory. + +The sanitation of the municipality was rigorously inquired into, and +regulated; but it is only justice to the residents of Mayaguez to say that +little reform was necessary in this regard, as the current statistics of +mortality and disease amply proved. Of the few changes made, however, one +may be specifically mentioned. + +[Illustration: A Ruined Church along our Line of March.] + +[Illustration: A Puerto Rican Laundry.] + +It was the custom whenever a peasant died to carry the corpse to the +cemetery in a coffin hired at transient rates, and then, having dumped the +deceased into a shallow grave, to return what is facetiously known as the +"wooden overcoat" to its original owner, for further service. This was bad +enough, considering the danger of infection thus engendered; but much worse +remains behind. It seems that the plot of ground reserved for dead paupers +was very circumscribed. So it had become necessary to bury four or five +bodies in the same hole, the last one in being perhaps no more than six +inches from the light of day. And, as if this state of affairs were not +already sufficiently horrible, we found that the congestion was sometimes +still further relieved by a wholesale emptying of graves, the bones thus +removed being thrown into some adjacent corner above ground, where they lay +undisturbed in the hot sunshine and smelt to heaven. This ghastly practice +was summarily stopped. + + * * * * * + +If you will take a map of Puerto Rico and cut off the western section by +drawing a line from Guanica through Lares to Camuy, you will see at once +the extent of the territory brought under American control by General +Schwan. The principal towns of this section, in addition to those already +described, are Aguadilla, Maricao, Anasco, Cabo Rojo, Lares, and Las +Marias; but none of these places are important enough to call for detailed +notice, with the possible exception of the first-named. This city, +Aguadilla, while it has a population of only 5,500, is notable as being the +most picturesque town on the entire island. It is the capital and port of +the surrounding district; and, though the climate is hot, it is remarkably +healthful. The site is a stretch of shore facing Mona Channel, between +Cape Borinquen and the Rio Culebrinas. Directly behind rises the steep +green-crested Jaicoa Mountain, its slopes covered with orange, lemon, and +palm trees in bewildering profusion; while half-way to the summit there +gushes forth a fairylike, crystal stream, which flows directly through the +town before emptying into the bay. An antique church and a little fort of +11 guns, called Conception, add to the scenic beauty of the picture, when +viewed from the sea. Tourists will probably spoil this lovely town before +the end of another decade, but at present it is a quivering page of +romance. + +[Illustration: On the Road to Lares.] + +[Illustration: The Best Outfit in our Wagon Train.] + +Of the facilities for transportation in this part of Puerto Rico, it may +be said that they are either extremely good or extremely bad. The former +condition prevails generally in the valleys, and the latter among the hills +toward the interior. There are several interrupted lines of railroad, and +burros are used to a considerable extent by the inland planters; but far +the greater part of communication and carriage is accomplished by way of +the sea. + +Labor here, as elsewhere in the tropics, is to be had very cheaply, but is +uncertain, sluggish, and dishonest. A man for plantation work can be hired +for almost nothing a day, but he will not earn even that unless he is +driven at the point of a machete. The local peon desires to toil no longer +than is necessary to obtain the bare wherewithal to fill his belly. Then +he dreams away the remainder of the day, smoking the eternal cigarette; +perhaps rousing himself sufficiently to pick the strings of a guitar in the +cool of the evening--and this, at least, the beggar does well. He is not +at all ambitious to improve his condition, and he will never be any better +than he is to-day. Probably he will be much worse. He will cut throats and +burn haciendas all the gay year round if he is not allowed to gang his ain +gait. We are going to reform him, of course; but--the day will come when +we shall be ashamed to look Spain in the face. In Cuba this man's brothers +were known as "patriots"; which meant that they were soldiers when there +was any work to be done, and laborers when fighting was on hand. In my +opinion, they are vicious beasts. + +The cost of living naturally hinges upon the price of labor; and so one +may eat and drink in Puerto Rico for a trifle more than a song. Fruit and +vegetables are cheap and plentiful, though flour is so costly as to be +almost a luxury; while the meats are neither low in price nor good in +quality. Excellent fowls are to be had for very little money. Milk is dear +and dangerous; butter is only known as it appears in cans from Denmark; and +all the other dairy products are of the meanest description. Still, one can +live with pleasure and comfort upon the many peculiarly native articles of +subsistence in common use. + +[Illustration: "Promenade of the Fleas" in Yauco.] + +[Illustration: When only One Man gets a Letter.] + +Rents are low, but satisfactory houses are seldom to be had when they are +wanted. + +There is always room in the hotels of the larger towns; and, until one can +build for himself, a hotel offers a very pleasant substitute--at a slightly +increased expense. Land, for building purposes, or in an unimproved state, +can be leased for a sum that is almost nominal, except in a few highly +favored localities. Purchasers of land are more than likely to find +themselves immediately embroiled in a lawsuit over the title. If no flaw +exists in your title, then it does exist in one that was drawn up a hundred +years ago; and in either case the result is the same--you lose. + +Skilled workmen in any branch of industry will not find a good field for +their abilities in Puerto Rico, at least not for a few years to come. If +there were any demand for their services,--which there isn't,--they would +not be able to command anything approaching the standard of wages usual in +the United States. + +To the investor, dairy farms, ice-plants, transportation schemes, and +bar-rooms offer tempting possibilities,--I reserve agriculture for separate +consideration,--but it cannot be too forcibly emphasized that plenty of +money, good-health, patience, and a smattering of the Spanish language are +absolutely indispensable requisites to the foreigner trying to do business +on this island. + +[Illustration: The "Weary Travellers' Spring," near Anasco.] + +[Illustration: A Crude Sugar Mill near Las Marias.] + + + +CHAPTER X + +The End of the Campaign + +_Arrival of the mail-steamer_--_The soldier-boy and his letters_--_The +greater part of the brigade is quartered in Mayaguez_--_Agriculture +in Puerto Rico_--_Material result of our campaign_--_A farewell +order_--_General Schwan departs for the United States_. + + +On the 19th of August a steamer came into the harbor, bringing us a mail, +the first we had received since the beginning of July. If the people who +wrote those letters could have seen the happiness they wrought upon their +distant boys, I am sure they would have been surprised and touched. Again +and again we read the simple news of home,--the cat was dead, or little +sister had the mumps, or father had built a new fence around the back +pasture,--and wars and kings and presidents faded into forgetfulness before +the heart to heart talks that had come from over-seas. + +I don't suppose there is anybody that knows the value of a letter better +than a soldier does. A few blotted lines from his mother or sister or +sweetheart are meat and drink and fine raiment for his soul. He feels brave +again and good again and--homesick again. He makes life a burden for the +whole camp until he has borrowed or stolen a scrap of paper and a stubby +pencil wherewith to make reply. He sits down in some convenient spot, with +emotion fairly oozing from every pore, and for a solid hour he wrestles +with his tools and vocabulary. The result probably does not altogether +please him. He feels that he has said too much about his lack of socks, +the toughness of his fare, the flatness of his purse. All the love and +tenderness he meant to set down have somehow refused to leave him, even in +description. But he knows he will be massacred if he goes howling for more +paper; and so he sends off what he has written, counting the weary days +until his answer comes. The man who first invented writing was, without +doubt, the greatest man that ever lived. + +[Illustration: A very Popular Spot.] + +[Illustration: Two Knights and a Pawn.] + +On August 25 it was decided to bring all but four companies of the brigade +into quarters at Mayaguez, chiefly because a great deal of sickness had +begun to spring up in the outlying camps. This was accordingly done. + + * * * * * + +Scientific agriculture and prosperity have long been regarded as almost +synonymous terms in Puerto Rico. + +The provincial government established and maintained an experimental +station at Rio Piedras, for the purpose of promoting a technical knowledge +of the native soil-products; and the results of this step have proved +invaluable. The recent director of the station, Senor Fernando Lopez Tuero, +wrote, while in office, several monographs on tropical agriculture; which I +have been at some pains to translate in my search for absolutely reliable +information relating to that subject. Senor Tuero is considered, to be a +high and conservative authority by those of his compatriots who are best +able to judge; and I feel confident that the following estimates are +nearly, if not entirely, correct:-- + +The chief agricultural products of the island are cotton, rice, cacao, +corn, cocoanuts, pepper, bananas, tobacco, vegetable dyes, coffee, sugar, +pineapples, and vanilla. Of all these I shall only pause to deal here with +the last four. + +Coffee and sugar are regarded by the Puerto Ricans as their most valuable +crops. The first takes six years to come into full bearing, and during this +time will cost an expense of about 162 pesos an acre, with a return in the +last year of 86 pesos an acre,--a net deficit for the full period of 76 +pesos. Afterward the expense should be about 66 pesos an acre, and the +return 90 pesos. Sugar requires a heavy investment at the start. A +plantation of 250 acres, together with the necessary buildings and +machinery, will call for about 52,500 pesos. The total cost of a crop, from +beginning to end, should be 152 pesos an acre, and the return about 170. + +A pineapple plantation, for the investor of limited means, ought to prove +profitable and encouraging. The first year of cultivation will produce a +crop, at a final cost of 40 pesos an acre, including the land-rent. The +return is put down at 200 pesos, leaving a gorgeous net profit of 160 +pesos. It would seem perhaps that under such circumstances it is odd that +there is not a more general raising of this fruit by the local planters; +but the reason for an apparent neglect of a golden opportunity lies in +the difficulties heretofore encountered in finding swift and adequate +transportation from field to market. With this handicap removed there is +little doubt that pineapple-growing will become a tempting industry. + +The vanilla bean, however, is king-pin of the list in the claim of profit +to be derived from its culture. It is said that the yearly cost of raising +the crop will be 94 pesos an acre, chiefly for manure and irrigation. And +the annual return for every acre is figured at 652 pesos,--a net profit +that is fairly dazzling. + +While all these details--which I have digressed so many times to give--do +not properly form a part of the story of our campaign, yet it is by +no means unusual for one who has put his hand into a grab-bag to look +carefully and well at the prize withdrawn. And that is what I have been +doing. + +The material result of General Schwan's campaign may be briefly summarized +thus: He marched his command ninety-two miles in eight days; fought two +successful engagements; expelled the Spanish forces from the entire western +part of Puerto Rico; captured and occupied nine towns; and took 362 +prisoners, including Colonel Villeneuve, a lieutenant-colonel, and four +other regular officers. In addition he seized 450 stands of arms, 145,000 +rounds of ammunition, and ten thousand dollars in silver coin. His loss was +1 killed and 16 wounded against a total of 20 killed and 50 wounded on the +side of the enemy. + +On August 27 the general issued a farewell order to his brigade, from which +I briefly quote:-- + +"On relinquishing his command to return to the United States, the +brigadier-general commanding desires to congratulate, and to return his +heartfelt thanks to, the officers and soldiers of the regular brigade for +their achievements and excellent conduct during the last eighteen days.... +Our troops have continued to hold their advanced positions and outposts +until now, when, peace being assured, all but a small fraction have been +brought to comparatively comfortable barracks near this city. The hardships +endured on the march and at these outposts have been great.... But these +hardships have been cheerfully borne by officers and men. Not a murmur has +been heard, despite the fact that nearly one-fourth of the strength of most +organizations is on sick-report, their ailments being directly caused by +the exposure incident to this campaign. + +"Less than three weeks have been occupied by the campaign, yet a bond of +sympathy between officers and soldiers has been established that years of +peace could not have engendered." + +On the following morning, accompanied by Lieutenant G.T. Summerlin, his +aide-de-camp, General Schwan left Mayaguez for Ponce, where he boarded the +transport "Chester," and returned to the United States. + +The campaign of the Independent Regular Brigade was thus brought to an +official end. + + + +A BRIEF SKETCH OF THE LIFE OF BRIGADIER-GENERAL SCHWAN. + + +Theodore Schwan was born in Germany, July 9, 1841. He received his earlier +education in the preparatory schools of his native land, but came to the +United States when he was about sixteen years old. He enlisted as a +private in the Tenth Infantry on June 12, 1857; and served successfully +as corporal, sergeant, first sergeant, and quartermaster-sergeant until +October 31, 1863, when he received his commission. He was made a first +lieutenant, Tenth Infantry, April 9, 1864; regimental quartermaster in +December, 1864; a captain, March 14, 1866; a major, Eleventh Infantry, +and assistant adjutant-general, July 6, 1886; a lieutenant-colonel and +assistant adjutant-general, February 19, 1897; a colonel and assistant +adjutant-general, May 18, 1898. Two weeks before his last promotion in +the regular army he was appointed brigadier-general of volunteers, and in +accordance with the Act of Congress, approved March 2, 1899, he will retain +that rank until July 1, 1901. He was brevetted several times during the +War of the Rebellion, and his whole military career, covering a period of +forty-two years, is absolutely devoid of blemish. + + + +APPENDIX + + +I + +The following officers received distinguished mention in General Schwan's +reports, for service rendered under fire during the campaign in western +Puerto Rico:-- + + Lieutenant-Colonel Burke, Eleventh Infantry. + [A] Major Gilbreath, Eleventh Infantry. + Captain P.M.B. Travis, Eleventh Infantry. + Captain R.W. Hoyt, Eleventh Infantry. + Captain A.L. Myer, Eleventh Infantry. + Captain Penrose, Eleventh Infantry. + Captain Macomb, Fifth Cavalry. + Acting Assistant Surgeon Savage. + Lieutenant Odon Gurvoits, Eleventh Infantry. + Lieutenant T.F. Maginnis, Eleventh Infantry. + Lieutenant Alexander, Eleventh Infantry. + Lieutenant Wells, Eleventh Infantry. + Lieutenant W.S. Valentine, Fifth Cavalry. + Lieutenant Rogers F. Gardner, Third Artillery. + +[Footnote A: Died of apoplexy on August 22, 1898, while in camp near Las +Marias.] + +In addition to those named above, special and valuable efficiency was +displayed by Major E.A. Root, engineer; Major H.H. Benham, ordnance; Major +Egan, brigade-surgeon; Captain Buchanan, Collector-of-the-Port at Mayaguez; +Captain Davison, brigade-quartermaster; Captain Hutcheson, assistant +adjutant-general; and Captain Elkins,[A] Lieutenant Byron, and Lieutenant +Summerlin, aides-de-camp. + +[Footnote A: Wounded at battle of Hormigueros.] + + +II + +In connection with the present writer's expressed opinion regarding the +relative practical value of regulars and volunteers in modern warfare, the +following excerpt from the Chicago _Record_ of November 3, 1898, is worth +reading. + +Captain Avid Wester, the Swedish officer who accompanied the American army +in Cuba, in order to study the war, has just returned to Sweden. During +his stay in Gothenburg he was interviewed, and he seems now to have a more +sympathetic view of the Americans--the volunteers excepted--than former +reports indicated. Captain Wester greatly praised the treatment he had +received from all the American officers, and the bravery of the Americans +in the regular army. "Of the 18,000 men under the command of General +Shafter," he says, "only 4,000 were volunteers or militiamen; the rest +consisted of regulars, which had had an average service of six years on the +borders of the Indian territory. They were very good and well-disciplined +soldiers, who went into battle with complete disregard of death. The +militia regiments, however, could not be got within range of the Spanish +bullets, and all the stories about the heroism of volunteers are untrue. +The only volunteers who distinguished themselves were the 'rough riders,' +who, in spite of their name, fought on foot, but these men were not a +militia regiment. The troop consisted of cowboys and adventurers, who cared +neither for life nor death, but rushed blindly into battle. Brave fellows +withal." After praising the bravery of the Spaniards and the accuracy of +their fire, Captain Wester expresses the belief that with modern rifles in +use it is of the greatest importance to have well-trained soldiers, who +in the heat of battle retain their coolness and listen to their officers' +directions and commands,--in a word, soldiers who retain good firing +discipline. This, he says, cannot be expected of men with short time of +training, on whom the din of battle often has so paralyzing an effect that +the soldier can neither hear nor see. + + +III + +The question concerning the quality of the beef served as a ration to our +troops during the recent war--in Cuba and Puerto Rico, and aboard the +transports--has already been pretty thoroughly answered, one way or the +other. Yet, though the topic is worn nearly threadbare and admittedly has +nothing in particular to do with General Schwan's campaign, I venture to +make, in this place, a personal contribution to the discussion in the form +of an extract from a letter, written by me from Mayaguez on September 15, +1898. + +Our rations [on the transport "Comanche"] consisted of hard tack, coffee, +canned baked-beans, canned tomatoes, and canned "roast beef." Before we +arrived at Key West the baked-beans had all been eaten and the water in the +tanks had gone rotten--we carried no condenser--so that we were reduced to +the rather monotonous diet of tomatoes for breakfast, tomatoes and canned +roast beef for dinner, and tomatoes again for supper; with a full allowance +of coffee and hard tack at all three meals. + +Anybody will be able to understand that we were pretty hungry at the end of +the second day. We were thirsty too--I paid as much as fifty cents for a +glass of ice-water from the cabin--but I will skip the mass of details. We +had seen the piles of neat cans, labelled "roast beef," stacked up on the +dock at Port Tampa, and we were impatient for the first mess-call that +made us acquainted with the contents of those cans. I regret that I cannot +adequately describe to you the appearance of the stuff. I will simply say +that it looked filthy, was covered with a sort of slime, and emitted a +nauseous odor. It was very hard to even gaze at it and remain unmoved, +but we did more than that--we tried to eat it. I managed to swallow three +mouthfuls and immediately became wretchedly sick. The example seemed to be +popular. + +On the succeeding day we were each given an unopened can of the meat, which +was supposed to last us for twenty-four hours. Most of the men threw their +portions overboard at once; a few packed away the "corpse"--as we already +called it--for purposes of trade with the unsophisticated Cubans; and I +kept my can as a souvenir. I did not, however, keep it long; for, chancing +to drop it upon the deck, the contents exploded with a distinct report, +startling me not a little and covering my person with the debris. At the +time I thought this experience was going to be altogether unique, but I +discovered afterward that the same thing happened in a great many other +instances. + +Having abandoned the beef, we were forced to subsist on hard tack and +tomatoes for the rest of the voyage, and hailed with joy our anchorage at +Daiquiri. But we were too previous. During our ten days' stay in Cuba we +found the "corpse" still waiting for us in the mess, and we carried the +ghastly burden along when we finally steamed away for Puerto Rico. + +We landed at Guanica on the 25th of July, which meant that we had been +half-starved for twenty-two days. We had forgotten the "Maine" and would +have greeted Weyler himself with a glad sweet smile, had he come bearing in +his hands food fit for a human being. Once more disembarked, we lost sight +of the canned roast beef for good--save at extremely rare intervals while +on the march. We found no difficulty in eating the beef obtained from +Puerto Rican steers, although it was tough and bloodless; and we received +salt pork often enough to furnish variety. + +After the cessation of hostilities we began to get American beef instead of +the native article, and, while it was by no means so impossible a food as +its canned cousin, it certainly could not be called delicious. It smelled +badly before it was cooked, was rigid and stringy when served, and had a +rank taste, like--well like nothing else on earth. Our sick-list doubled at +this time. + + +IV + +A list of the killed and wounded on the American side, at the battle near +Hormigueros, Puerto Rico, on the 10th of August, 1898. + +_Killed_. + +Fred Fenneberg, private in Company "D," Eleventh Infantry. + +_Wounded_. + +Lieutenant J.C. Byron, Eighth United States Cavalry, R.D.C. + +John Bruning, corporal in Light Battery "D," Fifth Artillery. + +George Curtis, private in Light Battery "D," Fifth Artillery. + +Samuel G. Frye, private in Light Battery "D," Fifth Artillery. + +Willard H. Wheeler, sergeant in Company "A," Eleventh Infantry. + +Joseph P. Ryan, corporal in Company "A," Eleventh Infantry. + +Arthur Sparks, private in Company "C," Eleventh Infantry. + +John L. Johnson, corporal in Company "D," Eleventh Infantry. + +J.A. Sanders, private in Company "D," Eleventh Infantry. + +Harry E. Arrick, private in Company "E," Eleventh Infantry. + +Henry Gerrick, private in Company "E," Eleventh Infantry. + +Paul F. Mitzkie, private in Company "E," Eleventh Infantry. + +William Rossiter, private in Company "G," Eleventh Infantry. + +Lemuel P. Cobb, private in Company "I," Eleventh Infantry. + +D.J. Graves, private in Company "M," Eleventh Infantry. + +Amos Wilkie, corporal in Company "M," Eleventh Infantry. + +_Injured_. + +Frank Muller, private in Company "E," Eleventh Infantry. + +Augustus H. Ryan, private in Company "F," Eleventh Infantry. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FROM YAUCO TO LAS MARIAS*** + + +******* This file should be named 10439.txt or 10439.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/4/3/10439 + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. 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